1. INDIAN WORLD ART AND COSTUME APPRECIATION
1. Egyptian Period
2. Renaissance period
3. Greek Period
4 Roman Period
5. Byzantine Period
6. Victorian Period
Ancient Costume and Modern Fashion
It is acknowledged that it is this facile dexterity in combining Past and
Present , the ability to cull suggestions from other Eras, and endow them
with personal touch of today and tomorrow that has given their supremacy
in dictating Modern Fashions .In the glass of Fashion down the ages is presented
such a wealth of human associations of Universal interest.
AncientIndianWorldArtAndModernFashionCostume
Egyptian Costume Renaissance Costume Greek Costume
Roman Costume Byzantine Costume Victorian Costume

2. Egypt is valley of Nile. In Egypt at some remote
unknowndateswereevolvedtheoriginaltypeofcoveringforthe
human body the tunic, the rob, the skirt accompanied by
shawl or cape. These were all worn with few variation by
both men and women. Linen was the principal material
used and the highly decorative effect were usually obtained
by borders and fringes. Skin were worn , garment s of
gazelle hide, cut and seamed, and panther and leopard
s k i n t h r o w n o v e r t h e s h o u l d e r . A
warrior’s metal cuirass appears, formed of scales, and it
was imitated in all-over scale patterns. Head-dress shown
varied and elaborate symbolic forms, the uraeus in front
of the tall helmet, or skullcap shapes, is familiar. The most
recent excavations have unearthed rich treasures in jewelry..
The art of Egyptian lapidaries and goldsmiths is shown in
necklaces, bracelets, earring, girdles and finger-ring of
exquisite workmanship. The innumerable little jars and
boxes for cosmetics, and the metal hand-mirrors, are
witnesses of how much of life was vanity, then as now.
All these things belonged to the luxurious side of ancient
life, but Egyptian art records the humbler phases too.
There are figures of dark skinned slaves bought to the
Nile ports in war-galleys from the African interior, wearing
the primitive lion cloth, or the short skirt, which were
commonly worn by servants and peasants, and by scribes.
Strange foreign figures are sometimes portrayed, of Asiatic
envoys, and “Philistines” with a distinctive head-dress and
European cast of features. Many different notes in the grab
of old Egypt throw light on the daily life of the people.
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN FASHION ANCIENT RENAISSANCE FASHION
The Renaissance period was an interesting one that had
some really exquisitely designed clothing for men and
women.The fashion in Renaissance period was inclined
towards the opulent designs as well as simpllitic forms.
This was the period that saw the lavish use of silks and fur.
The Italian had a huge influence over the designs from the
Renaissance period. Clothing during the Renaissance
period was more about displaying one’s social status. The
rich would wear clothes in expensive fabrics. Materials such
as silk and brocade were used for cloyhing during the
Renaissance period. Women’s fashion saw an evolution
during this era. Style was the prime factor. This includes
the skirt, bodice, vest, underskirt and the collar. wedding
dresses during this period were particularly beautiful in
their appearance and were made of brocades. Exiquisite
jewels were sewn onto the patterns. Many layers of
clothing thus formed an important factor of Renaissance
clothing for women. This probably considered as a way to
keep the body warm diring the cold weather.
Women’s clothing also consisted of a kirtle, which was
worn with a gown. The term kirtle means a frock. This
frock consisted of tight fitted bodice and a flowing skirt.
Sleeves were often wide and the rich loved to line their
sleeves with fur. Gowns often had long trains of cloth
behind Women also used to take a long time to get ready
due to the number of layers involved in the clothing.
Fashion accessories also had a major part to play during
this period. Renaissance clothing was considered to be
incomplete without hoods or head gears. During the early
period, women adorned pointed hats over their hair. These
stylish caps were embellished with jewels and often had
string attached to back.
Renaissance clothing for men began with the rich and
opulent look. This was the evident during the European
Renaissance from the rich and extravagant, this trend
moved on to creating a wider look for men. Men wore
coats and outfits that gave the silhouette of square
look. This was created with the help of shoulder pads,
which were used to widen the shoulders.
Until this period, lace was almost never used in dresses.
Later, fashion began to reflect mannerism.
ANCIENT GREECE FASHION
Ancient Greek clothing was typically home made and
the same piece of homespun fabric that was used as a
type of garment or blanket. From Greek vase paintings
and sculptures, we can tell the fabrics were intensely
coloured and usually decorated with intricate designs.
Clothing for men and women consist of 2 main garments-
*a tunic (either a peplos or Chiton) ,and
*a cloak (himation).
The Peplos was a large rectangular of heavy fabric,
usually wool, folded over along the upper edge so that
.the over fold would reach to the waist
The Chiton was made of a much lighter material,normally
linen. It was a very long and very wide rectangle of fabric
sewn up at the sides, pinned or sewn at the shoulder,
and usually girded around the waist.
Zoster.
When Peplos and Chiton wore with Himation, it was known
as Monochiton. A belt was worn with Chiton known as
Helmets and Shields were an important part of the
masculine Grecian style. Legprotection called “Greaves” added
more skin coverage.
The helmets which almost totally encased the face,could
deflect a spear and the movement of the plume tail
decoration might distract the attacker visually from a
precision aim. It also helps them to distinguish between
friend and foes.
Himation was being worn in ancient Greece, it represented
a form of outdoor wear. The himation is also an important
garment of ancient Greek fashion. This was generally made
from a rectangular piece of wool. This Himation was loose
and flowing, therefore, it cam be termed as modern cloak.
It was also used as a form of drapery to be worn over the
chiton.
ANCIENT ROME FASHION
Fashionable women wore hair pieces were often made
from the hair of slave girls. Women sandals were brightly
coloured.Chalk Powder, charcoal and saffron were used
of a cloak.
Roman dresses differed from one class to another. A
Roman could tell how important or wealthy a person
was from their Toga .Free Roman men wore Toga instead
around the body.
Toga was originally an Etruscan garment worn in earlier
times by both men and women of all classes. The toga
was made of white wool or white Egyptian linen. It was
square or rectangular in shape and was worn draped
which was a full length.
The Romans were fond of coloured stones .Rings were
the only jewellary worn by Roman citizen men and good
manners dictated only one ring. Women wore Tunica
which was adopted from Greek Chiton. The tunica was
usually knee length. Over this the women wore a stole
The ancient Roman women loved ornate necklaces,
pins, earrings, braceletes and friendship rings. Pearls
were favourites.
as cosmetics.
Footwear also defined a person’s position in society.
Women worn closed shoes that were either white, green,
or yellow. Men wore sandals.
Most early Roman jewellary resembled Greek and
Etruscan jewellary, but Roman styles eventually developed.
The Romans were fond of coloured stones such as Topaz,
emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Pendants, especially
came in gold frames, were popular
Ancient Victorian Fashion
Victorian Fashion comprises the various fashions and trends in
Britishculture that emerges and grew in province throughout the
Victorian era and the reign of Victoria, a period which would last from June 1837 to
January 1901.
By 1907, clothing was increasingly factory made and sold in large,
fixed price department stores. Custom sewing and home sewing were
still significant, but on the decline new machninery and material changed
in many ways.
The introduction of the lock-stitch sewing machine in mid-century
simplifiedboth home and boutique dressmaking, and enabled a fashion for
lavishapplication of trims that would have been prohibitively time
consuming if done with hand. Lace machinery made lace at a fraction of
the cost of the old, laborious methods.
In the 1840s -1850s, women’s gowns developed narrow and sloping
shoulders, low and pointed waists, and bell-shaped skirts. Corsets, a knee
length chemise, and layers of flounced petticoat were worn under the
gowns. By 1850s the amount of petticoats was reduced and the crinoline
was worn the size of the skirts expanded. Day dresses had a solid bodice
and evening gowns had a very low neckiline and worn off the shoulder
with sheer shawls and opera-length gloves.In 1860s, the skirts became flatter
at the front. In1870s, uncorseted tea gowns were introduced.
In 1880s, riding habit had a matching jacket and skirts, a high collared shirt
and a tip hat with avail. In the 1890s wo,men’s fashion became simpler and less
extravagant.
During the 1840s, men wore tight-fitting,calf length frock coats and a
waistcoat or vest. The vests were single or tripled brested, with shawl
or notched collars. Trusers had fly fronts, and breeches were used for
formal functions and when horse back riding.During 1850s, men started
wearing shirts with high upstanding or turnover collars and 4-in hand
neckties tied in a bow. In 1860s, men started wearing wider neckties
that were tied in a bow or looped into a loose knot and fastened with a
stickpin. During 1870s, 3-piece suits grew in popularity. During the
1880s, formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trosers with
a dark waistcoat, a white bow tie, and a shirt with winged collar
ANCIENT BYZANTINE FASHION
The people who we know today as the Byzantines called
themselves Romans, spoke Greek, and lived in modern-day
Turkey. The Byzantines maintained a legacy of learning and
a civilization inherited from the Greeks and Roman for ,more
than a thousand years.
The Byzantines, who tended to prefer simple flowing clothes
to the winding and draping of the Toga, did away with the toga
altogether. They chose as their most basic garments the
dalmatica, a long , flowing men’s tunic, or shirt, with wide
sleeve and hem, and the stola for women. Unlike the Romans,
the Byzantines tended to be very modest about any display
of fresh. Their garments were worn close about the neck,
sleeves extended all the way to wrist, and the hemline, or
bottom edge, of their outer garment extended all the way
to the ground. They layered their clothing, with men wearing
a tunic and trousers under the dalmatica, and women wearing
along undergarment beneath their stola and an outer garment
called a paludamentum. or long cloak.
Traders brought exotic fabrics and patterns into the capital city
of Constantinople from these regions, and rich Byzantines
eagerly adopted the colours, patterns, and fabrics of the east
into their costume tradition. Over time Byzantine Clothing became
ever richer in colour and ornamentation. Deep Reds, blues,
greens, and yellows became common on the garment of
wealthy people, but the richest colour, purple, was reserved for
royalty. Among the more distinctive garments developed by
the Byzantine are still worn today by the members of the
Eastern Orthodox Church.
Silk fabric was especially beloved by the Byzantines. Silk first
came to the west in about 39 B.C.E.The Byzantines wore silk
into a strong fabric called samite, which sometimes had gold
thread woven into the material. Silk was highly treasured by
the wealthy Byzantines to make a variety of garments as well
as for embroidery. The quality of Byzantine clothing was limited
only by ability of wearer of pay for it. Most Byzantine likely wore
unable to afford the expensive things that would have survived
many hundreadsor thousands of years.
AncientIndianWorldArtAndModernFashionCostume