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Fixing mouldings
Mitres
A mitre is a type of joint where the
material is cut on an angle so that
two pieces meet neatly.
They are used when two pieces of
material meet at an angle, like
skirting at external corners,
architraves around windows and
doors, or where handrails change
direction at the top of stairs.
Mitres
To calculate the cutting angle, measure
the angle of the corner and halve it. That
is the cutting angle of the mitre.
The most common example is a
90 ̊corner.
Half of 90 is 45.
So cut both ends of the skirting or
architrave at 45 ̊.
When they meet, the two angles will add
up to 90 ̊
The same process will work for any angle.
Scribes
Internal mitres have a tendency to
open up over time. To hide this
movement scribe joints are used.
A scribe joint is where one internal
piece is cut square and butted into
the wall.
The other piece is cut at half the
internal corner angle and then cut
to the contour of the mould with a
coping saw.
Cutting scribes
The first step is to cut and internal
mitre. Make sure to cut the piece
long so that if the tip of the scribe
breaks you can recut the mitre
without wasting the entire length.
Start at the top and cut, following
the face of the profile with a slight
back cut so the front of the profile
becomes the leading edge.
For fine details it is easier to do two
cuts that meet instead of one very
tight turning cut.
Stop-end mitres
Stop-end mitres or return mitres are a way of
finishing moulding that hides end-grain.
Stop-end mitres are an external mitre that
goes into a very short butt join to the wall.
They are made by cutting a 45 ̊ external mitre
cut then cutting it off square. The offcut is
inserted to return back to the wall.
They are usually glued in place because fixings
splinter the timber.
Bastard mitre
When mitring two mouldings of
unequal width you must use a
bastard mitre.
The cut on each piece is a different
angle but the mitred edge is the
same length so they meet neatly.
Mark the width of the opposite
piece onto the first piece and draw
a diagonal line from the outside
corner to inside mark.
Cut to this line and repeat the
process for the other side.
1 2
3 4
5 6
Scarf joint
To conceal joins in lengths of
moulding a scarf joint is used.
The two pieces are cut with
opposing mitres so that they can be
lapped and fixed through the joint
on an angle.
This means that any movement in
the moulding will not completely
open the joint like a butt joint
would.
Nosing and aprons
Nosing is a rounded moulding type that
is used at the sill of windows.
They are finished with stop-end mitres
at each end so that the width of it is
even on the front and side of the
architrave, like in the diagram to the
right.
The apron is a low profile moulding that
sits below the nosing and spans the joint
from the nosing to the wall. It is finished
at each end with return mitres.
Raked mouldings
Off the shelf crown mouldings
cover the transition from plumb
walls to level ceilings.
When the ceiling is sloped this
poses problems at the top and
bottom of that slope because the
transition is no longer 90 ̊.
This means the moulding at the
bottom must “open up” to an
obtuse angle and the moulding at
the top is “closed up” to an acute
angle.
The Problem
Un-contoured solution
Raked mouldings
When mouldings cover transitions
between surfaces that are not
square to each other, raked
mouldings need to be developed so
they meet properly.
These mouldings can be developed
on site but it is often faster, but
more expensive, to have them
manufactured by a timber supplier.
Rake mouldings require the same
projection as the original moulding
but a different drop.
Fixing Mouldings
To fix timber mouldings to timber
frames regular brad nails and
adhesive can be used. Hand or
machine driven brads should be at
least twice as long as the moulding
is thick.
Fixing to steel frames may require
battening if the moulding needs
bradding. Otherwise the moulding
must be braced in position as the
adhesive dries.
Efficiency in Fix out
Compare these two scenarios.
One carpenter measures one wall
of a room, walks to the drop saw,
makes the cut, walks inside, installs
that piece, and repeats the process
for each wall of each room.
The second carpenter measures all
the walls in each room, makes a
cutting list, cuts all skirtings and
architraves at once, places them
around the job, and then installs all
at once.
The second carpenter saved time
and energy by doing less trips to
the drop saw.
By installing all pieces in the room
at once the second carpenter has
also cut down the time it takes
changing tools.
This may seem insignificant but
over the course of a working day
this can shave hours off job.

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Fixing mouldings Powerpoint

  • 2. Mitres A mitre is a type of joint where the material is cut on an angle so that two pieces meet neatly. They are used when two pieces of material meet at an angle, like skirting at external corners, architraves around windows and doors, or where handrails change direction at the top of stairs.
  • 3. Mitres To calculate the cutting angle, measure the angle of the corner and halve it. That is the cutting angle of the mitre. The most common example is a 90 ̊corner. Half of 90 is 45. So cut both ends of the skirting or architrave at 45 ̊. When they meet, the two angles will add up to 90 ̊ The same process will work for any angle.
  • 4. Scribes Internal mitres have a tendency to open up over time. To hide this movement scribe joints are used. A scribe joint is where one internal piece is cut square and butted into the wall. The other piece is cut at half the internal corner angle and then cut to the contour of the mould with a coping saw.
  • 5. Cutting scribes The first step is to cut and internal mitre. Make sure to cut the piece long so that if the tip of the scribe breaks you can recut the mitre without wasting the entire length. Start at the top and cut, following the face of the profile with a slight back cut so the front of the profile becomes the leading edge. For fine details it is easier to do two cuts that meet instead of one very tight turning cut.
  • 6. Stop-end mitres Stop-end mitres or return mitres are a way of finishing moulding that hides end-grain. Stop-end mitres are an external mitre that goes into a very short butt join to the wall. They are made by cutting a 45 ̊ external mitre cut then cutting it off square. The offcut is inserted to return back to the wall. They are usually glued in place because fixings splinter the timber.
  • 7. Bastard mitre When mitring two mouldings of unequal width you must use a bastard mitre. The cut on each piece is a different angle but the mitred edge is the same length so they meet neatly. Mark the width of the opposite piece onto the first piece and draw a diagonal line from the outside corner to inside mark. Cut to this line and repeat the process for the other side. 1 2 3 4 5 6
  • 8. Scarf joint To conceal joins in lengths of moulding a scarf joint is used. The two pieces are cut with opposing mitres so that they can be lapped and fixed through the joint on an angle. This means that any movement in the moulding will not completely open the joint like a butt joint would.
  • 9. Nosing and aprons Nosing is a rounded moulding type that is used at the sill of windows. They are finished with stop-end mitres at each end so that the width of it is even on the front and side of the architrave, like in the diagram to the right. The apron is a low profile moulding that sits below the nosing and spans the joint from the nosing to the wall. It is finished at each end with return mitres.
  • 10. Raked mouldings Off the shelf crown mouldings cover the transition from plumb walls to level ceilings. When the ceiling is sloped this poses problems at the top and bottom of that slope because the transition is no longer 90 ̊. This means the moulding at the bottom must “open up” to an obtuse angle and the moulding at the top is “closed up” to an acute angle. The Problem Un-contoured solution
  • 11. Raked mouldings When mouldings cover transitions between surfaces that are not square to each other, raked mouldings need to be developed so they meet properly. These mouldings can be developed on site but it is often faster, but more expensive, to have them manufactured by a timber supplier. Rake mouldings require the same projection as the original moulding but a different drop.
  • 12. Fixing Mouldings To fix timber mouldings to timber frames regular brad nails and adhesive can be used. Hand or machine driven brads should be at least twice as long as the moulding is thick. Fixing to steel frames may require battening if the moulding needs bradding. Otherwise the moulding must be braced in position as the adhesive dries.
  • 13. Efficiency in Fix out Compare these two scenarios. One carpenter measures one wall of a room, walks to the drop saw, makes the cut, walks inside, installs that piece, and repeats the process for each wall of each room. The second carpenter measures all the walls in each room, makes a cutting list, cuts all skirtings and architraves at once, places them around the job, and then installs all at once. The second carpenter saved time and energy by doing less trips to the drop saw. By installing all pieces in the room at once the second carpenter has also cut down the time it takes changing tools. This may seem insignificant but over the course of a working day this can shave hours off job.