Lining powerpoint cpccca3024 - Install lining panelling and moulding

1. Fixing linings

2. Types of fixing
Depending on the type of lining,
you will use different fixing
methods.
Some will leave holes that must be
filled, like plasterboard screws, and
others need no further preparation,
like secret nailed lining boards or
proprietary clip systems.

3. Preparation
•Before any linings are cut you must
prepare the surface, this is called
pre-sheeting.
•If the studs of the wall frame orient
the right way to fix your linings to
them, you will pre-sheet the studs
themselves.
•If the studs don’t align or it is a
masonry wall you may batten out
the wall, or put in additional
nogging or framing.

4. Pre-sheet Part1/2
The aim is to make the surface “flat”. Imagine pulling a sheet over your bed and
making sure there are no wrinkles.
Check plates for
straight
Check the top and bottom
plate for straight. Use a
straight edge or stringline.
Move the frame if you need
to, if you can’t move it, pack
with strips of Masonite or
plane off the high spots.
Check frame for
plumb
Check the top and bottom
plates for plumb. Use a
straight edge and a spirit level
on a space between studs to
make sure the top plate is
directly above the bottom
plate.
Check outside
studs for straight
Check your outside studs for
straight. Pick two studs
(internal corner studs, studs
next to window or door
openings, or as far as your
straight edge will reach) and
pack or plane them until they
are straight.

5. Pre-sheet Part2/2
Check all studs for
straight
Check the rest of the wall.
Run your straight edge up the
wall horizontally between the
two studs or battens you
already checked. They are
your guides. .
Pack and plane
If any part of a stud or batten
sticks out, plane it down. If
any don’t touch the straight
edge, pack them out with
Masonite strips, or if you are
using battens, put more
packing behind the fixings.
Cripple
If studs are too bent that
planing them would
significantly reduce their
width, use the crippling
method described in the wall
framing module.

6. Crippling studs
If studs are too bent, they can be crippled to straighten them.
Cut no more than half the depth of the stud in the concave side.
Wedge the cut open.
Reinforce both sides of the stud with 42mm x 19mm x 600mm minimum plates and fix with 4/50mm nails in
each.
You can cripple 20% of the studs (1 in 5) but not studs next to openings or supporting concentrated loads.

7. Battening
•If you are fixing to a masonry wall or there is not
enough framing to fix to, you can install battens.
•Battens are strips of timber or steel furring
channels spaced according to your lining material
requirements.
•They are typically spaced at 600mm centres and
are fixed wherever they cross studs or fixed to
masonry walls with plugs and screws every
600mm or more if the lining material requires it.
•It is often quicker to pack behind battens to form
a straight surface than to pre-sheet them or the
wall their mounted too.

8. Battening
•The orientation of your battening
depends on the lining.
•Horizontal battening will allow
vertical lining boards.
•Laminating battens to the side of
metal studs and letting them
protrude slightly will allow timber
fixings to be used with a metal
structural frame.
•If fixings are going to be seen then
even spacings should be a factor
when setting out battens.

9. Split battens With the innovation of secret
hinges split battens are becoming
less common but are still useful
for mounting panels or cabinets
that may need to be removed to
access services like water or
electricity.
A split batten is made up of a
batten with a bevel on the bottom
mounted to the removable panel
and a batten mounted to the
frame with a bevel on the top so
that the weight of the panel locks
them together.

10. Split Battens – set out
A gap the same size as the
height of the bevel (plus
some) must be left above
the panel or cabinet to be
able to lift it off.
The gap at the top can be
covered with a pelmet,
crown mould, or lighting
recess.

11. Direct stick fixing
Quick-grab adhesives allow linings
to be mounted directly to the
substrate with no visible fixings.
This is useful for laminated panels
where the surface is pre-finished or
a masonry wall that is relatively
straight.
Instead of pre-sheeting, blocks of
packers may be adhered in low
points to bring the wall in plane.
Bracing of sheets is required while
adhesives cure.

12. Timber Lining Boards – Set out
•Before the first board is installed you
should work out the effective cover of
the lining boards and how many rows
you will need.
•Measure the wall in the opposite
direction to how the boards will run
and divide this by the effective cover.
•If the result isn’t an exact number (which
is common) you may need to rip down
boards.
•Try to “balance” the aesthetic of the lining
boards. This may mean ripping down the
first and last boards to keep the start and
finish even.
•If the boards are butting into an uneven
surface, like a floor, scribe the board to
suit so the next board can be installed
straight.
Effective Cover
Board width

13. Lining boards - Installing
•Take care to install the first lining
board straight.
•If it is not installed straight this will
lead to saw-toothing at the ends of
the boards and can mean ripping a
wedge into the final board.
•Check every few runs by measuring
to the opposite wall or a datum
marks.
•Keep checking as you install, it is
common for some joints to be
tighter at one end and for creep to
develop during installation.

14. Lining boards - Fixing
•Most lining boards have some
ornamentation at the edges.
•This gives the surface texture but
also hides any irregularities in the
thickness of the boards.
•When secret nailing, the fixings are
driven through the base of the
tongue of board angled backwards
to prevent splitting and compress
the joint below.
•Boards can be face nailed too. This
is used with larger boards, usually
over 120mm in width.
•One fixing is recommended for
smaller boards to allow movement
and reduce splitting.

15. Timber Lining Boards - Fixing
•The tongue of the board
underneath holds the bottom of
the board above.
•This hides the nail heads and allows
the boards to move with heat and
humidity without cupping.
•Board can also held in with
proprietary clips or loose
tongues/splines.

16. Lining sheets – Set out
It is important to consider the
aesthetic style when setting out for
timber veneered panels, plywood
sheets, laminated imitation stone,
or any sheet material which has
patterns or textures.
•Do the patterns match?
•Are they similar but not exactly the
same?
•Do they go together as a set?
•How do the edges meet? (Shadow
lines or flush?)

20. Fibre cement sheeting - Fixing
•Precautions should be
taken when cutting fibre
cement as the dust is
harmful.
•Sheets can be scored and
snapped or cut with sheers
to minimise dust.
•If cutting with a saw, a dust
extraction system and a
fibre cement blade or wet
cutting system must be
used.
•Nails or screws can be used
to fix sheets.
•Fibre cement is very brittle
so pre-drilling holes is
advised.
•Edges of boards are
recessed so they can be
joined like plasterboard
•Sheets are commonly tiled
over. The weight of the tiles
affects the number fixings
which affects the stud
spacing.

21. Spandrel and soffits
Spandrels are panels that enclose
the space underneath staircases
Soffits are linings that close in the
underside of staircases.
Typically spandrels are framed out
and panelling or access doors are
installed to the frame

22. Soffits
Soffit linings can be directly fixed to
stair stringers with a batten or
carriage piece to support the
centre of the lining if required.
Rebated mouldings cover the
transition from stair stringer to
soffit lining or the stringer may be
rebated to accept them.