This document describes tools used by various craftspeople including masons, carpenters, plasterers and ceramicists. For masons, key tools described include trowels for spreading mortar, chisels for cutting brick, hammers for breaking brick, and levels for establishing plumb and level lines. For carpenters, circular saws, drills, nail guns and routers are highlighted. Plasterer tools discussed include trowels, buckets, floats, scrapers and spirit levels. Ceramicist tools mentioned are brushes, modeling tools, calipers and paddles/patters.

1. 1. Mason’s tools
Masons are builders who work with concrete, brick, stone or other individual units. Masonry
construction has been around for thousands of years, and many of the tools modern masons use
date from ancient times.
 Trowels
A mason's most important tools are her trowels. Trowels usually have triangular-shaped heads
attached to wooden or plastic handles. Masons use trowels to pick up mortar and spread it on
bricks. They also sometimes use the butt of the trowel's handle to tap the brick into place in the
mortar bed. Trowels come in different shapes and sizes for special jobs.
 Chisels
Masons use chisels to cut bricks into smaller pieces. They also sometimes use them to remove
bricks that are not sitting correctly and need to be adjusted. A chisel normally has a metal head
that is shaped like the head of a shovel, except that it's flat. The edge of the chisel is slightly
sharp.
 Hammers
A mason's hammers don't look exactly like the hammers most people are accustomed to using.
Instead, a mason's hammer has an iron head with a square face on one end. The other end has a
long chisel. Mason's hammers are also much heavier than normal hammers, weighing up to 3 1/2
pounds. Masons use their hammers to split and break up bricks.
 Jointers
Masons use jointers to make mortar joints. Many jointers look like long, flat metal bars with a
bend in the middle, but there are several types of jointers. Jointers may be round, flat or pointed,
and masons select their materials based upon what kinds of mortar joints they need to make.
 Squares
Masons use their squares to measure right angles and lay corners. Squares are generally made of
wood or metal and come in a variety of sizes.
 Levels
Masons use levels to establish plumb and level lines. Plumb lines are perfectly vertical, while
level lines are perfectly horizontal. Good levels are very lightweight but sturdy, and masons
expect them to withstand rough treatment. Often, levels are made from wood, hardwood or even
plastic. They have vials enclosed in glass, and each vial has a bubble of air suspended in liquid.
When the bubble rests between two center marks on the vial, the mason knows that his line is
level or plumb.

2.  Straightedges
Straightedges are used for extending level or plumb lines. They can be as much as 16 feet long.
Straightedges vary between 1 1/8 and 1 1/2 inches thick and are usually between 6 and 10 inches
wide. The top edge of a straightedge must be perfectly parallel to the bottom edge.
2. Carpentry tools
 Circular Saw
Circular saw is one of the most common types of power tool, and it is a type of saw that uses a
toothedabrasive disk or blade to cut using a round (rotary) motion. It consists of the frame
surrounding the top and sides of the saw itself for protection, leaving the bottom to get cutting
done. It is a perfect tool for straight cuts along the board’s length.
Woodworkers use Circular saw for cutting sheets such as plywood, MDF etc. with as much
accuracy as that of a table saw if used with a clamp as the straight edge.
 Power Drill
Although cordless drills due to portability are the first choice of many, corded drills are not only
less expensive; they are more versatile and powerful. It has many options in size i.e. 3/8 inches
(10 mm) or ½ inch (12.5 mm) chuck, keyed or keyless chuck, and so on.
 Nail Gun
A nail gun would be one of the best companions while you will be doing a woodworking project.
Nail guns are manufactured to drive nails into wood (and other materials). This tool replaces the
nails and hammers, and it drives nails much faster and efficiently than its manual counterpart.
 Jigsaw
Jigsaw is one of the important tools for the
beginner woodworkers. It allows you to cut woods in rounded and circular patterns. Although
many carpenters prefer a band saw, as it is more accurate, but jigsaw is highly effective for
beginners. It is also called Sabre Saw. Jigsaw tools are ideal for cutting curves and complex
shapes from the wood plank.
 Palm Sander
A good palm sander is crucial to any woodworker’s power tool collection. It will use ¼ of a
sheet of sanding paper and is small enough to get into tight places. However, be careful not to
sand patterns on finished work with the palm sander. Palm sander generally moves in a circular
pattern, or in the back and forth direction.

3.  Random Orbital Sander
Random orbital sander is another basic category hand-held power tool that any beginner will
prefer to buy. It is more expansive than a palm sander. But as it uses a random motion, it does
not sand in patterns. It is because it uses hook and loop fastened sanding disks.
A random orbital sander is a good tool for getting an incredibly smooth and scratch-free finish.
 Compound Milter Saw
It is less expensive than a table saw but it is extremely useful for cutting compound angles i.e.
beveled, mitred and combination cuts.
The compound miter saws work as a valuable tool for the carpenter. It is called a miter saw
because the base of the saw is known as the table, which can be rotated both in left and right to
allow the saw to cut at different angles or miters, other than 90 degrees.
 Wood Router
It remains one of the most recommended tools for wood-work beginners. A stationary bare
model will help you to perform quite a number of tasks. It can also be mounted on a router table.
It is a semi-portable tool that a worker can run manually. It is mostly used to hollow out wood
and make cutouts with finest precision. Its usage extends further than woodworking, as routers
can also be used on any other material, from plastic to aluminum cutting.
 Power Tools
Power tools are not for the beginners, however a circular saw is the most widely used power tool.
The standard size of a circular saw for carpentry is one with 7 1/2 inches blade diameter. They
cut long and straight lines on panels, siding and almost any type of lumber..
 Drill Press
While most holes are drilled with a power drill, there are some applications in woodworking
where a drill press is invaluable. The drill press provides the ability to do precision drilling and
delivers especially accurate large-diameter holes. One of the best features of a drill press is its
ability to set the depth of the hole.
 Table Saw

4. The table saw is the soul and heart of every woodworking shop. It is the centerpiece around
which all the other tools are used and organized. Hence you should buy the best table saw that
you could comfortably afford. Take the time to learn which features you really want, and which
fits your budget the best as well as complement your needs.
3. Plasterer tools
 Pointing Trowel
A plasterer uses a pointing trowel for trimming small areas that needed extra attention. They are
typically between 5-6 inches (12-15cm) in length. The pointing trowel gets its name due to the
action it allows the user to complete called ‘pointing’. Originally designed for builders to fill and
shape mortar in between bricks, the pointing trowel has been adapted by plasterers to intricately
trim and shape plaster.
 Window Trowel
When unable to use a larger trowel, a plasterer would reach for his window trowel. It has a
smaller face which provides you with better control when plastering in tight spaces. The window
trowel is also known as a ‘tuck pointer’ or ‘joint filler’. Its design of a long thin shank provides
plasterers the ability to accurately level plaster over tricky joints and in hard to reach places.
 Corner Trowel (Internal and External)
Corner trowels allow you to finish the internal and external corners of a surface with accuracy
and ease. A plasterer’s quality of work is typically judged on how smooth the finish is in addition
to how well the corners of the surface are sealed. A corner trowel is a must have tool for a
plasterer to ensure a smooth fill in to each edge of the surface.
 Bucket
A bucket has multiple uses and applications. You’ll want at least a 10-litre bucket depending on
your needs but this size would be suitable for most general purpose jobs. Ensure your bucket is
clean and dry before mixing in it to ensure that your plaster mix it smooth and ready for
application.
 Finishing Trowel
The finishing trowel is the plasterer’s bread and custard. A wide, flat, rectangular blade allows
you to spread, smooth and level your plaster. You will be using this tool a lot, so invest in a good
quality one with a comfortable grip. Top quality trowels are not welded through and are slightly
convexed.

5.  Hand-Board (Hawk)
A hawk is a simple portable surface which provides you with a flat plate on which to store a
small amount of plaster material for ease of application to walls and ceilings.
This can help speed up work by allowing for plasterers to complete sections without having to
continually return to wherever the mixed plaster is stored.
 Straight Edge
A straight edge is used to even off rendered floors and can cover a large area in a short time.
Typically used to measure distances, a plasterer’s straight edge is also used to help ensure
surfaces are smooth.
 Tin Snips
Tin snips are a type of shears used for snipping sheet metal. Their long handles provide higher
leverage and certain models have a compound-action handle which increases the mechanical
advantage. A plasterer will want a decent pair of these for trimming up beading.
 Spirit Level
A spirit level is absolutely essential if you want to have flat surfaces and even finishes. The
reputation of plasterers’ quality of work is vital for expanding your customer base and repeat
work. Spirit levels allow you to ensure that you get perfectly even plaster finishes every time.
 Brushes
Having a decent set of brushes in your arsenal never hurt anyone, and you will need them for
keeping your freshly plastered walls damp. Keep them clean and free from rust, otherwise, you
may end up with streaky walls.
 Scraper (Long and Short)
It is not always practical to whip out the power tools, so having the option for manual driving is a
great asset. A set of high-quality screwdrivers will provide you with years of service. Cheap
screwdrivers tend to be made from softer metals and the points will strip out after just a few uses.
 Artex Texture Brush
A texturing brush is simply used to add texture to a coated ceiling, providing an alternative finish
to the typical smooth walls. Artex finishes are a popular offering a unique finish to a room.
 Plaster Float
The plastering float is another very important tool that every plasterer needs to own. These will
be used on every job in the application and finishing stages to ensure the flattest finish possible.

6.  Cordless Combi Drill
Some plasterers may need to remove fittings or fixtures before they begin plastering or to get to
hard to reach places. Cordless combi drill is a handy power tool that can drill as well as drive.
Also as it is cordless the battery is rechargeable and can be used wherever you like.
 Jointing Knife / Taping Knife
Jointing knives are designed for the laying of drywall tape. They help to seal the joints between
boards and provide a seamless finish. All plasterers need a couple of these at hand, preferably a
large taping knife and a smaller jointing knife for those cramped spaces.
 Sponge
It’s always useful to have a sponge at hand so that you can clean down your tools and mortar
stand after dirty day’s work. Maintaining your tools and keeping their surfaces clean ensures that
no bits are left over, preventing them from mixing with the plaster next time you use them.
 Mortar Stand
A mortar stand is a simple foldable table on which plaster material or grout can be stored for ease
of access when plastering. Mortar stands save plasterers from continuously bending down when
mixing and fetching plaster as well a handy surface to place tools.
 Step Ladder
Plasterers need to reach high walls as well as ceilings so a good quality step ladder is vital.
The most useful size is 1.5 metres (5 feet) because it will provide you with the reach you need
for ceiling work without being too bulky. It can be easily folded up and stored away.
 Drywall Saw
A drywall saw’s rugged blade can cut through plasterboard with ease and its razor-sharp point is
ideal for puncturing drywall, giving you quick access to wall cavities. There are also electric
versions which help reduce the workload when preparing a wall for plastering.
 Dust Sheet
A dust sheet is important for keeping a clean and tidy working environment. Show your
customers how diligent you are by not covering their treasured possessions in plaster.
 Hack Saw
All plasterers should have a hack saw if only because they are so useful. They can cut through
drywall, plastic, wood, metal and much more.

7.  Claw Hammer
A claw hammer is a standard piece of equipment for any worker. The blunt end is for driving and
the claw end is for prying. A good quality one will last you a lifetime.
 Retractable Trimming Knife
This pocket-sized perforator can cut through string, wire and even plasterboard. Its retractable
blades are cheap and easy to replace.
 Mixing Paddle
A mixing paddle is used in combination with your mixer drill for mixing up plaster to your
desired consistency. It is vital for plasterers to keep their mixing paddle clean between uses to
ensure that their plaster mix is as smooth as possible.
 Mixer Drill
The mixer drill is the modern alternative to using a mixer paddle, making the plaster mixing
process easier for plasterers and reducing both time and energy of workers. A high quality mixer
drill is robust with high levels of torque with ease.
 Scarifier
A scarifier is an important tool for a plasterer because it allows them to prepare the second coat
on a rendered wall or ceiling by scratching or combing lines into the render, this will create a
stronger bond when the next layer is applied.
 Plasterer's Hop Up
A plasterer’s hop-up is a simple foldable step that gives you extra reach when you need it most.
A useful tool that may save you having to set up scaffolding or wearing stilts.
4. Ceramicist tools
 Brushes
Decorating and painting on glazes, oxides and slip
 Basic Tool Kit
This kit is designed for the novice in the classroom or studio to begin experimenting with clay.
 Modeling Tools (Boxwood)
Essential in every studio, these 12 tools, 203 mm (8 inch) long, are shaped to perform a
multitude of jobs from decorating through to cutting, hollowing out and modeling. These tools
are beautifully finished and fit very comfortably in the hand.

8.  Calipers
A pair of compasses made of plastic, metal or boxwood – used for checking and comparing
measurements of pottery e.g. when fitting lids, when producing sets of similar dimensions.
 Cutting Wires
Wire attached to wooden or plastic holders at both ends to ensure firm, straight cutting of clay. It
is available with either plain or twisted stainless steel wire.
 Clay Gun
Used for the manual extrusion of clay. This cast zinc alloy tool is the size of a large syringe and
fits comfortably in the hand. The clay gun is supplied complete with 19 discs and is ideal for any
potter decorating by clay addition, and for the classroom where the shapes made are of great
interest.
 Kushi Comb
A Japanese tool of polished wood beautifully finished.
It is used to produce ‘Kushime’ comb grain decoration as well as many other decorative effects.
 Harp
Stainless Steel frame used for producing clay slabs of even thickness without rolling guides. The
wire retaining rings are set in the location slots according to the thickness of the slab required.
 Hole Piercers
It is used for producing a neat hole. The smallest size is particularly suitable for strainer holes in
teapots. Available in two diameters as well as a Multi Drill Tool
 Palettes and Kidneys
Variety of palettes for everyday use in the pottery workshop. Soft (flexible) rubber palettes are
used most often in the pressed dish technique when clay is pressed into a mould. The hard
(firm) rubber type may be used on thrown or hand built ware for shaping and smoothing the
surface. Steel palettes are made from high quality blue steel and are suitable for smoothing and
trimming leather hard or dry clay.
 Paddles / Patters
Large wooden paddle 36 cm long, for use with large hand built pots. Wooden patter 17 cm long,
for use with hand built pots.
 Tongs – Glazing and Raku

9. Glazing tongs are 280 mm long and used for holding bisque ware whilst dipping in glaze.
Raku tongs used for moving raku pieces around the kiln.
 Double Ended Ribbon
Made to our specification, the five shapes available provide every requirement for turning. 200
mm long. Available individually or as a set.
 Clean Up Tool
Primarily used to ‘clean up’ greenware by removing seams and imperfections and for enhancing
and sharpening any embossing. They may also be used for very fine sgraffito work. 150 mm
long.
 Sgraffito Tool
The sgraffito is available as a double ended looped wire tool that, depending on which end is
used, will give a fine or heavy sgraffito line. 150 mm long. (Product Code JU7205)
 Weenie
A double ended looped wire tool which will give a medium to heavy line. 150 mm long.
 Lace Double Ended Tool
Heavy blunt needle on one end and tear-drop flat shape on the other. 150 mm long.
 Single Ended Ribbon Tools
Used for shaping wet or leather hard clay. 160 mm long.
 Sponges
Sponges are a day to day necessity in all forms of ceramic work; whether for decorating, hand
building or throwing.
Types of sponges
I. Sponge Sticks – sponge on a long handle. Used for removing surplus water from the
inside of tall or narrow necked pots during throwing.
II. Hydra Sponges – round synthetic sponges that are long lasting and strong. They are
suitable for many uses.
III. Sanding Pads – for cleaning up fired ceramic pieces.
 Tile Cutters
 Easy to use, Australian made, spring action cutters that make tile cutting a snap.
 Create consistent accurately sized tiles using these tools.

10.  Crafted from galvanized steel, they come in a variety of shapes and sizes: square, round
and border.
5. Painter tools
 Step ladders and extension ladders – to help you reach elevated areas
 Paint scraper – to remove loose or peeling paint from wood, plaster, and other surfaces
 Triangular-load scraper – to remove paint in small or tight areas
 Steel wool – to remove corrosion from metal surfaces
 Bristle brush – to clear loose material from masonry
 Wire brush – to remove efflorescence and loose material from masonry, or to remove loose,
flaking paint
 Putty knife – to scrape away loose paint, or to apply filler
 Broad putty knife – to fill in and smooth patching compounds in plaster and wallboard
 Glazing compound – to replace cracked, broken, or missing panes of glass
 Spackling paste – to fill nail holes and small imperfections in walls
 Long-handled brush – to clean large exterior surfaces
 Scrub brush – to remove mildew and dirt
 Sandpaper (various grits) – to smooth and feather previously painted surfaces, or to
roughen glossy surfaces so paint will adhere better
 Sanding block – to hold sandpaper and help you sand surfaces to an even finish
 Caulking gun – to apply caulk to cracks in walls, gaps, and seams in woodwork, and the
junction of different surfaces (e.g., wood siding and stone)
 Tubes of caulk – same as above (note that all-acrylic and siliconized acrylic caulks are
paintable; silicone caulk is not)
 Masking tape – to protect window panes and trim from paint
 Paint guide – to protect carpets and walls when painting baseboards and other trim
 Roller tray and grid – to load rollers with paint
 Brush comb – to clean paint brushes
 Paint pail – to mix paint and carry it to the worksite
 Drop cloths – to protect furniture, floors, and shrubbery from paint