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1. DESIGN OF COSMECEUTICAL
PRODUCTS: PRICKLY HEAT,
WRINKLES, BODY ODOUR AND
DANDRUFF
1
Presented by
Neenu Anna Thomas
2nd semester M.Pharm
Pharmaceutics
Nandha college of pharmacy
Faculty incharge
Smt. Deepa Cherian
Department of Pharmaceutics
2. CONTENTS
PREVIOUS YEAR QUESTIONS
PRICKLY HEAT
WRINKLES
BODY ODUR
DANDRUFF
REFERENCE
2
4. • Heat rash or miliaria or sweat rash.
• Prickly heat is characterized by itchy red spots
which develop on the chest ,under the armpits and
between the thighs.
• Basically caused by blocked sweat glands.
• Occurs when sweat cannot freely evaporate from the skin
and sweat ducts become plugged. This inflammation can
cause a red rash.
PRICKLY HEAT
4
5. PREVENTION
• Can be prevented by wearing clothes that allow sweat to evaporate as
well as bathing regularly and drying the skin.
• Be able to recognize early signs & symptoms of heat induced.
• Avoid caffeine, which can make the body lose water.
• Take appropriate action to prevent serious heat disorders.
• Spend as little time as possible in direct sunlight.
• Take frequent breaks in cool, shaded areas.
5
6. TREATMENT
• The patient should be placed in a cool atmosphere.
• Soap should avoided as it may further irritate skin.
• Clothing should be light, preferably cotton.
• Use gentle skin care products to avoid skin irritation.
• Drink plenty of cool water or electrolyte replenishment fluid even if
not thirsty.
6
8. Procedure :
Weigh the required quantity of boric acid as well as talc mix
them well in a mortar.
Then add starch and mix thoroughly.
Add menthol and mix till fine powder is made and no
glittery particle.
8
9. BORO PLUS ICE PRICKLY POWDER
9
It is a completely herbal formulation that is mild,
gentle and skin-friendly.
Provides quick and long-lasting relief from prickly
heat.
Excellent in absorbing sweat and prevents body
odour to keep you fresh, all day along.
INGREDIENTS WEIGHT (g)
Yavanala satva 10
Jasad bhasma 10
Tankan amla 4
Shankha chuma 5
Pudina flower 0.4
Karpoor 0.2
Vishnupriya 0.07
Ushir 0.01
Marigold oil 0.01
Neem 0.01
Salicylic acid 1.5
Talc and perfume q.s
10. CANDID PRICKLY HEAT POWDER
10
The formulation includes, Neem extract ( anti-bacterial property),
Potassium aluminium sulphate (temporarily reduces the size of
pores and tighten the skin), (bulky agent as a white pigment),
boric acid ( preservative), menthol (provides a cooling sensation)
Specially curated anti-bacterial formula that protects from skin
problems.
Soothing and cooling relief from itching and burning sensation.
Absorbs sweat and gives dry effect on sweaty and moist body
parts.
11. HIMALAYA PRICKLY HEAT BABY POWDER
11
Himalaya prickly heat powder contains Yashad Bhasma(160mg),
Ushira 0.5 mg( Vetiveria zizanioides), Nimba 0.25 mg(Melia
azadirachta) and Karanja 0.25 mg( Pongamia pinnata) as major
ingredient.
Apply on baby’s skin after bath and whenever necessary.
It also reduces the redness of rash.
Keep the body cool and comfortable even when the weather is
humid.
14. 2) WRINKLES
• Wrinkles are also known as Rhytide, is a fold
or ridges on the skin.
• Some wrinkles can become deep crevices or
furrows and may be especially noticeable
around your eyes, mouth and neck.
• They typically appear as a result of aging
processes such as glycation, habitual sleeping
positions, loss of body mass etc. 14
15. TYPES OF WRINKLES
1. ATROPHIC CRINKLING RHYTIDS
These wrinkles are little parallel lines that disappear when our
skin is stretched.
It is resulted as a loss of collagen and elasticity which leads to
skin sagging.
2. PERMANENT ELASTIC CREASES
These are creases lines that end up becoming permanent
wrinkles as age increases.
15
16. 3. DYNAMIC EXPRESSION LINES
These lines are the ones which we get from repeated
facial muscle movements that cause creases in the skin
that become more permanent.
4. GRAVITATIONAL FOLDS
Those are wrinkles that occur naturally with age as our
skin loses its structure and starts to fold and sag.
16
17. CAUSES
Age. As we get older, our skin naturally becomes less elastic and more
fragile.
• Decreased production of natural oils dries our skin and makes it
appear more wrinkled.
• Fat in the deeper layers of our skin diminishes. This causes loose,
saggy skin and more-pronounced lines and crevices.
Smoking. Smoking can accelerate the normal aging process of our skin,
contributing to wrinkles. This may be due to changes in the blood
supply to our skin.
17
18. Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. Ultraviolet radiation, which
speeds the natural aging process.
• Exposure to UV light breaks down our skin's connective tissue —
collagen and elastin fibers, which lie in the deeper layer of skin
(dermis).
• Without the supportive connective tissue, our skin loses strength
and flexibility.
• Skin then begins to sag and wrinkle prematurely.
18
19. TREATMENT
1) LASER RESURFACING
ABLATIVE LASER RESURFACING
Laser beam destroys the outer layer of skin (epidermis) and heats
the underlying skin(dermis).
This stimulates the growth of new collagen fibers. As the wound
heals, smoother and tighter skin forms.
NON-ABLATIVE LASER RESURFACING
This technique has a shorter healing time and fewer risks than
ablative techniques.
19
20. 2) PHOTODYNAMIC REJUVENATION
It can treat fine wrinkles caused by sun exposure.
3) BOTULINUM TOXIN TYPE A
When injected in small doses into specific muscles, Botox blocks the
muscles from contracting.
When the muscles can’t tighten, the skin appears smoother and less
wrinkled.
4) FACE-LIFT
Face-lift prcedure involves tightening the underlying muscle and
tissues.
20
21. 5) TOPICAL RETINOIDS: Derived from vitamin A, retinoids —
such as tretinoin and tazarotene that we apply to our skin may reduce
fine wrinkles, splotches and skin roughness.
6) ANTI-WRINKLE CREAMS: The effectiveness of anti-wrinkle
creams depends in part on the active ingredients. Retinol, antioxidants
and some peptides may result in slight to modest improvements in
wrinkles.
21
22. 22
MINIMALIST LACTIC ACID 10% EXFOLIANT
It consists of lactic acid (exfoliates the surface and helps brighten skin),
Glycolic acid (revealing freshness), Salicylic acid (unclogs the pores and
removes excess oil, acne and blackheads) and hyaluronic acid (Keeps skin
hydrated and reduces post exfoliation and tightens the skin.
24. 24
It is having a vanishing cream as base.
Patanjali anti-wrinkle cream reduces wrinkles and also blackheads
on the face give it a clean and creamy look by improving
complexation.
Almond oil, Wheat, fruit extracts, essences of cucumber and aloe
combines with other natural ingredients to hydrate and nourish
mature skin while protecting it from further damage, turning back
the clock and giving you a youthful glow.
25. 25
BIOTIQUE CARROT SEED ANTI-AGING LOTION
It blended with pure carrot seed, almond and groundnut oil.
These are potent and beneficial ingredients that helps to keep skin
soft and prevent dryness, also removes fine lines and wrinkles,
leaving body lustrous and young looking.
27. BODY ODOUR
WHAT CAUSES BODY ODOUR?
• Natural bacteria on our skin feed on our sweat and release the smell we call
body odour, also known as bromhidrosis. The warm, damp conditions of
underarms make them an ideal environment for bacteria to thrive and for
the sweat from our apocrine glands which are more prone to releasing
odour to get trapped. This can also result in sweat patches on our clothes.
• Body odour starts to occur when we’re in puberty. Men tend to suffer more
from body odour, as they sweat more from their apocrine glands than
women.
• Certain foods, garlic or spices, alcohol and some types of medication can
also make our sweat smell unpleasant. 27
28. HOW TO CONTROL BODY ODOUR?
Make deodorant part of your daily routine.
Sweat can easily get trapped in our armpits, feet, toes and genital area –
which can lead to sweat patches – so it’s important to wash and dry these
parts of our body properly with an appropriate soap or shower gel.
As hair allows sweat to get trapped and cause body odour, shaving
underarms can help.
If smelly feet are a problem, make sure we wear socks made from natural
fabrics and change them daily, and avoid wearing shoes made from synthetic
materials.
28
29. PERSPIRATION
Perspiration is a phenomenon by which the body have for regulation of
body temperature and for protection of skin from dryness.
Sweat from both glands (1 Eccrine gland and 2 Apocrine gland) are
odourless when discharged. Later sweat from Apocrine glands which
contains lower fatty acid, steroid and lactones which is decomposed by
resident bacteria producing odorous substances . Eccrine sweat helps in
growth of bacteria by producing required moisture.
29
30. ANTIPERSPIRANTS
Earlier, Aluminium chloride and Aluminium sulphate were
used which having pH 2-3 ,these were irritating to skin and
could damage fabric.
In solution AlCl2 pH ( 4-4.5) close pH value of skin, however
it damage fabric, if not washed away.
Risk of damage to fabric can be reduced by including urea or
borax formulation. 30
31. 1) LIQUID ANTIPERSPIRANTS
FORMULA 2 %
PART A
ALCOHOL 50
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5
HEXACHLOROPHENE 0.1
PERFUME q.s.
PART B
ALUMINIUM
CHLOROHYDROXIDE
15
WATER 29.2
31
32. 32
METHOD:
Dissolve hexachlorophene and perfume in alcohol and propylene
glycol to make solution A
Dissolve the aluminium chorohydroxide in water and add this solution
slowly to solution A.
Keep the preparation undistributed for 2 days in a tightly closed
container.
Filter the preparation and fill in appropriate containers.
33. Liquid Antiperspirants are generally applied as
sprays.
These are aqueous or hydro-alcoholic
solutions of astringent salts with humectants.
A small amount of tween 40 will disperse
perfume.
Alcohol prevents hydrolysis of astringent in
solution and also helps in evaporation.
FORMULA 1 PERCENTAGE
Aluminium chlorhydrate 25
Glycerin 5
Alcohol 45
Borax 2
Water 100
Perfume q.s
33
35. 35
METHOD:
Melt stearyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol 1000, polyethylene glycol
1540 and polyethylene glycol di stearate together at about 800 C
When melted into fluid, add the aluminium chlorohydrate and mix
thoroughly
Let the mixture cool to 700 C and rapidly mix I volatile silicone
After mixing pour into a stick container
Allow it to cool undisturbed for 24 hrs.
36. Antiperspirant sticks are used to reduce underarm wetness and
control body odour.
These products are made by blending API with waxes, oils and
silicones by moulding the mixture into stick form.
36
FORMULA 1 PERCENTAGE
Aluminium chlorhydrate 20
Volatile silicone 45
Stearyl alcohol 25
Polyethylene glycol stearate 5
Carbowax PEG 100 3
37. DEODORANTS
Deodorant is a product applied to body to prevent body odour
caused by bacterial breakdown of perspiration in armpits, feet,
and other areas of the body.
Deodorants contains antibacterial agents that helps to kill
bacteria and reduce bacterial growth.
37
39. ROLL-ON DEODORANT
They are more hygienic to use because you are not exposed to as
many germs when using roll-on.
It is easily control how much deodorant are applying to your skin,
which helps to reduce the amount of bacteria that is being
transferred.
39
40. ROLL-ON DEODORANT
40
INGREDIENTS PERCENTAGE
PHASE A
Mineral oil 5
Stearic acid 23
PEG-40 stearate 2
Zinc ricinolate 2
Octadecenedioic acid 0.5
PHASE B
Deionised water qs 100
Sodium hydroxide 0.35
Potassium sorbate 0.10
PHASE C
Phenoxyethanol qs
Glycerin 5
PHASE D
Butylene glycol 3
Perfume 0.2
Heat PHASE B to 65-70ºC and add PHASE A to
fully hydrate the hydroxyethyl cellulose with
stirring.
Add PHASE C, followed by PHASE D mixing.
Mix well and fill into roll-on containers.
41. DEODORANT STICK
Sodium stearate is a non-irritant antibactericide.
Alcohol is incorporated to give a rigidity to
stick.
Method of preparation: Mix all ingredients
together and heat in an equipment having a
reflex condenser. Heat until soap is dissolved,
later allow to cool the mixture and transfer this
to moulds.
INGREDIENTS PERCENTAGE
Sodium stearate 7
Cetyl alcohol 1.5
Propylene glycol 6
Chlorhexidine
diacetate
0.5
Alcohol 82
Water 100
Perfume q.s
41
42. DEODORANT POWDER
Uniform powder can be obtained by passing the mixture of
ingredients through a micro pulverizer.
FORMULA PERCENTAGE(%)
Talc 67
Light precipitated chalk 12
Boric acid 5
Zinc oxide 5
Zinc phenol sulphonate 1
Perfume q.s
42
44. 44
METHOD:
Heat all the ingredients of part A to 750C with slight agitation till all the
ingredients are melted and mixed.
In another container, hat all the ingredients of part B to 750C. Add part B
to part A, keeping both solutions at the same temperature with quick
agitation.
A cream is prepared with the help of an emulsifying agent prepared
insitu.
Continue to stir until cream reaches room temperature.
Add the perfume when temperature is around 400C
Allow the preparation to stand overnight and stir gain for filling.
45. EVALUATION OF DEODORANT
Both invitro and invivo methods are available.
But invitro techniques do not provide a reliable indicator of
clinical effectiveness.
2 principal invivo methods are:
1. Determination of effect of treatment on the skin microflora.
2. Olfactory assessment of the effects on skin odours : Olfactory
assessment is performed by direct armpit sniffing or by indirect
sniffing of pads. 45
46. WHY CHOOSE A DEODORANT OVER AN
ANTIASPIRANT ?
Deodorants work by neutralizing the smell of the sweat and by
antiseptic action against bacteria.
Antiperspirants have the ability to reduce perspiration.
Deodorant only reduces the body odour and does not reduce
perspiration.
46
48. DANDROFF
It is a skin condition that mainly affects the scalp.
• Symptoms include flaking and sometimes mild itchiness.
• A more severe form of the condition which includes inflammation of the skin is
known as seborrhoeic dermatitis.
• The cause is unclear but believed to involve a number of genetic and
environmental factors.
• The condition may worsen in winters. The underlying mechanism involves the
over growth of skin cells.
• 48
49. CAUSE OF DANDROFF:
• As the skin layers continually replace itself, cells are pushed outwards where
they die and flake off.
• For most individuals, these flakes of skin are too small to be visible. However,
certain conditions cause cell turnover to be unusually rapid, especially in the
scalp.
• It is hypothesized that for people with dandruff, skin cells may mature and be
shed in 2-7 days , as opposed to around a month in people without dandruff.
• The result is that dead skin cells are shed in large, oily clumps, which appears
as white or grayish flakes on the scalp, skin and clothes.
49
50. 3 Major factors are :
1. Sebum ( Skin oil )or sebaceous secretions.
2. The metabolic by- products of skin microbes.
3. Individual susceptibility and allergy sensitivity.
50
51. MICROORGANISMS
• According to a study in 2016 , the bacterias (Propionibacterium and
staphylococci) are more important to cause dandruff than that of fungi.
• Bacterial presence are influenced by the presence of water and sebum .
• It was discovered that a scalp specific fungus, Malassezia globosa, that
metabolizes triglycerides present in sebum by the expression of lipase,
resulting in a lipid byproduct oleic acid.
• Oleic acid penetrates the top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) and
evokes an inflammatory response in susceptible people which disturbs
homeostasis and results in erratic cleavage of stratum corneum cells.
51
52. MECHANISM
• Dandruff scale is a cluster of corneocytes, which have retained a
large degree of cohesion with one another and detach as such from
the surface of the stratum corneum.
• A corneocyte is a protein complex that is made of tiny threads of
keratin in an organized matrix. The size and abundance of scales
are heterogenous from one site to another and over time.
52
53. HOW TO GET RID OF DANDRUFF ?
• Everyone wants clear and healthy scalp but unfortunately sometimes
dandruff attack on healthy scalp. Once dandruff occur on scalp it’s
difficult to remove it completely from there, no matter what product you
have used .
• Dandruff is enough to make your hairs rough and weak from the roots.
• The best way to getting rid of dandruff is by following proper hair care
routine.
53
54. TREATMENT
1) Antifungals: Antifungal treatments including ketoconazole, Zinc pyrithione
and selenium disulfide have been found to be effective.
Ciclopirox is used as anti- dandruff agent in most of the preparations.
2) Antibacterial cleaners: Sulfacetamide and sodium sulfacetamide.
3) Cortisone shampoos: Steroid shampoos in rinse off products help decrease
the inflammation and itching.
Fluocinolone acetonide ( Capex) shampoo.
Clobetasol shampoo
54
55. 4) Tea Tree Oil
Tea tree oil is the best remedy for many hair and skin related problems.
It is also knows as melaleuca oil or ti tree oil.
It is an essential oil which are having camphoraceous odor. Tea tree oil is
having anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Effective aganist fungus that cause of dandruff and helps in scalp itching
problem.
55
56. SELSUN ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO
INGREDIENTS WEIGHT(g)
Ammonium lauryl ether
sulphate
11
Cocamide dea 4
Zinc pyrithione 1
Stearyl stearate 0.5
Ethylene glycol disterate 2
Ethylene 0.5
Ammonium hydroxide 0.07
Selenium sulphide 2.5%
Colour, Perfume, Water qs
56
• It is a strong medicated shampoo which
contain Selenium sulphide which helps
to slow the production of skin cells and
act as a peeling, softening agent and
shedding the outermost layer of the skin
to help reduce flacking.
58. METHOD OF PREPARATION
Methyl cellulose mixed with deionised water then, sodium lauryl
sulphate and stearic acid were added.
To the above solution, sodium metabisulfide were added,
Ketaconazole drug is mixed with above solution, Then it is allowed
to cool at room temperature
Add EDTA, PVP, fragrance and colourant.
To balance pH, sodium hydroxide was added, finally water was
added to make quantity sufficient.
58
59. EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO
1. pH determination : Required amount of shampoo was added to 10mL
of distilled water. pH paper was dipped and colour change was noticed.
2. Wetting time determination: The wetting time is performed by
measuring the time taken for the disc to sink in the shampoo solution.
Wetting efficiency is considered to be higher if the disc takes less time
for sinking. The formulated shampoo showed good wetting time of only
3 seconds.
3. Viscosity measurement : Viscosity was measured by using Brookfield
viscometer. 59
60. 4. Stability studies : The thermal stability of the shampoo was studied
by placing them in glass tubes in humidity chamber at 45ºC with 75%
relative humidity as well as in a refrigerator at 4ºC and comparing them
to the same shampoos kept at room temperature at 25ºC.
5. Foam forming ability: Foam is created when foaming agents in
shampoo mix with air and water. At room temperature, 1% of 50mL of
the shampoo solution is put into 250mL graduated cylinder, then
covered by hand and shaken 10 times. The total volume of foam
content after 1 minute of shaking was recorded. The height of the foam
generated is measured.
60
61. STRUCTURE OF HAIR, HAIR GROWTH CYCLE
INTRODUCTION
Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles found in the dermis.
Hair is a simple structure that is made up of protein filaments called Keratin
which is the primary component of finger and toe nails.
The human body apart from areas of glabrous skin, is covered in follicles
which produce thick terminal and fine vellus hair.
Most common interest in hair is focused on hair growth, hair types and hair
care but hair is also an important biomaterial primarily composed of protein,
notably alpha-keratin.
61
63. STRUCTURE OF HAIR
The hair usually refers to two distinct structures
1) The part beneath the skin- hair follicle or when pulled from the skin- the
bulb.
2) The shaft which is the hard filamentous part that extends above the skin
surface.
A cross section of the Hair shaft maybe divided roughly into 3 zones:
i. Cuticle
ii. Cortex
iii. Medulla
63
65. 1) Cuticle
Outer most layer which has scale like cells that overlap
These cells work defensively to prevent damage to the hair inner
structure and to control water content of hair fibre.
The cuticle is made from 6-11 layers of overlapping semi-
transparent keratin scales.
65
66. 2) Cortex
Middle layer, has many functions
90% of hair’s total weight lies within the cortex layer
Also houses Melanin that gives hair it’s natural colour.
Two types of melanin- Eumelanin and Pheomelanin.
Eumelanin produces brown and black colour and is the most
prevalent.
Pheomelanin produces yellow or reddish colour
66
67. The pigment is manufactured within Melanocytes situated around
the apex of the dermal papilla and transferred to the newly
formed hair cells.
Greying of the hair involves the loss of Melanin pigment from the
cortex layer
The cortex provides strength, colour and texture to the hair
67
68. 3) Medulla
The Medulla, also referred to as the pith or marrow of the hair is the
innermost layer.
It is composed of round cells.
This layer is normally found in thick and/or coarse hair.
Naturally blonde and fine hair generally does not have medulla
68
69. STRUCTURE OF HAIR ROOT
Beneath the epidermis is a factory of structures working together to
promote hair growth.
The hair root is the portion of hair underneath the scalp surface
housing the dermal papilla, hair bulb, arrector pili muscle, sebaceous
gland and hair follicle which helps in the formation of hair.
Hair Follicle-
- Tube like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the
hair root
Hair Bulb-
- It is located at the base of the hair strand . It is club-shaped and acts
as a cover for the dermal papilla 69
70. Dermal papilla-
- It contains blood supply and nerves that produce nutrients for the hair
- These vital nutrients are needed in order for hair to grow.
- The dermal papilla is small, cone-shaped elevation located at the
base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb
Arrector pili-
- A small involuntary muscle located at the base of the hair follicle.
- Changes in temperatures cause the muscle fiber to contract, making
hair stand straight up.
- This results in Goosebumps, lasts for a few seconds
70
71. Sebaceous glands-
- The oil glands in the skin connected to the hair follicles are called
Sebaceous gland
- It secretes sebum, a fatty oily substance that lubricates the hair
71
72. Before hair growth can begin, a hair follicle must first be created;
The germinating layer of the epidermis starts growing down into the dermis,
and forms the outside of each hair follicle
The dermis then grows upwards into the base of the follicle to form the
dermal papilla.
This allows capillaries to enter the papilla and provide nutrients for the hair
shaft to grow
The bottom part of follicle enlarges into an area of actively growing cells
This is called the hair bulb. At the base of the hair bulb, the germinating
layer merges into the outer root sheath.
The outer root sheath then forms the germinal matrix (hair root) which
surrounds the dermal papilla.
72
73. Before hair growth can begin, a hair follicle must first be created;
The germinating layer of the epidermis starts growing down into the dermis,
and forms the outside of each hair follicle
The dermis then grows upwards into the base of the follicle to form the
dermal papilla.
This allows capillaries to enter the papilla and provide nutrients for the hair
shaft to grow
The bottom part of follicle enlarges into an area of actively growing cells
This is called the hair bulb. At the base of the hair bulb, the germinating
layer merges into the outer root sheath.
The outer root sheath then forms the germinal matrix (hair root) which
surrounds the dermal papilla.
73
74. REFERENCE
Wilkinson JB, Moore RJ, editors. Harry’s cosmeticology, New Delhi.
2000; 141:110-2.
Sharma PP. Cosmetics: Formulation, Manufacturing & Quality Control.
Vandama Publications; 2018;5th edition:132-135
Mithal BM, Saha RN. A handbook of cosmetics. Vallabh Prakashan,
New Delhi. 2000;141:110-2.
Narshana M, Ravikumar P. An overview of dandruff and novel
formulation as a treatment strategy.Int J PharmSci Res. 2018
Feb1;9(2):417-431.
74
Editor's Notes
chuluvukal
chuluvukal
WOUNDING
WOUNDING
SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS:
The signs and symptoms of dandruff are an itchy scalp and flakiness.
Red and greasy patches of skin and a tingly feeling on the skin are also symptoms.