review of guidelines for herbal cosmetics by private bodies like cosmos with respect to preservatives, emollients, foaming agents, emulsifiers and rheology modifiers.

1. Review of guidelines for herbal cosmetics by private
bodies like COSMOS, With respect to preservatives,
emollients, foaming agents, emulsifiers and rheology
modifiers.
Presented by :
Md Moidul Islam
M. Pharm, 2nd Semester
Pharmaceutics
ISF College of Pharmacy, Moga.
Presented to:
Dr. Balak Das Kurmi
Associate professor
Dept. Pharmaceutics

2. COSMOS - Introduction
• COSMetics Organic and natural Standard
Sets certification requirements for organic and natural
cosmetics products in Europe.
The standard is recognized globally by the cosmetics industry.
• In 2002 five European organizations responsible for setting
organic and natural cosmetics standards met at a trade show to
share ideas for broader standards to be used globally. These five
COSMOS members are:

3. COSMOS – Introduction….cont.
• COSMOS members are:
• BDIH (Germany)
• Cosmebio (France)
• Ecocert Greenlife SAS (France)
• ICEA (Italy)
• Soil Association (Great Britain)

4. Objective of COSMOS
• Promoting the use of products from organic agriculture, and
respecting biodiversity.
• Using natural resources responsibly and respecting the
environment.
• Using processing and manufacturing that are clean and
respectful of human health and the environment
• Integrating and developing the concept of "Green Chemistry"

5. Documents involved in COSMOS
• COSMOS Standards
• COSMOS Technical Guide- Which contains additional
interpretation and explanation related to COSOMS standard.
• COSMOS Labelling Guide.
• COSMOS Control Manual –Certification and Accreditation
Requirements.

6. Origin and processing of ingredients.
Composition of total products.
Storage, manufacturing and packaging.
Environmental management.
Labelling and communication.
Certification.
To be certified the products must comply with the defined
criteria on:

7. Origin and processing of ingredients.
• According to COSMOS standards, the ingredients of cosmetic product
are classified in different categories-
• Water
• Mineral ingredients
• Physically processed agro-ingredients.
• Chemically processed agro-ingredients.

8. Water:
The water used must comply with hygienic
standards(CFU<100/ml).
Types of water used- potable water, spiring water, water obtained
by osmosis, distilled water and sea water.
Other solvents: Ethyl alcohol, glycerin, chloroform, vegetable oils
etc.
 Mineral ingredients :
Minerals may be used as long as they are obtained without
intentional chemical modification and preferably from
environments.

9. Examples of mineral ingredients:
Chemical name Source
Aluminum hydroxide Bauxite
Aluminum oxide Clay
Calcium sulphate Gypsum
Sodium carbonate Soda
Sodium borate Borax
Sodium fluoride Sea water, Spiring water

10.  Physically processed agro-ingredients:
Included if any physically processed product of plant, animal, or
microbial Origin that complies with the conditions below.
• Only primary raw materials of plants, animals or microbial origin that
have been extracted using the physical processes allowed in Appendix I.
• Only primary raw materials that respect the requirements of the
Convention of International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna
an Flora (CITES) are allowed.

11. It is forbidden to use:
• Plants, plants materials and microorganisms that have been
genetically modified.
• Primary raw materials extracted from living or slaughtered
animals.
It is allowed to use ingredients of animal origin as long as:
• They are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal.
• They do not entail the death of the animal concerned, and
• They have been obtained using only the processes listed in table I.

12. APPENDIX I: PHYSICAL PROCESSES ALLOWED
• ABSORPTION STANDARD
• BLEACHING INFUSION
• MACERATION, PERCOLATION
• ROASTING
• CRUSHING
• STERILISATION
• BLENDING
• CENTRIFUGING
• EXTRACTION PRESSURE
• DRYING (by evaporation/natural under sun)

13. • DISTILLATION
• EXTRACTION (Steam)
• FILTRATION and
• PURIFICATION (ultra filtration, dialysis, crystallisation)
• FREEZING GRINDING
• INFUSION
• LYPOPHILIZATION
• MACERATION PERCOLATION
• ROASTING
• CRUSHING
• STERILISATION

14.  Chemically processed agro-ingredients
Any chemically processed product of plant, animal, or microbial origin that
satisfy the conditions below
• Any raw materials that fulfil the requirements of the International Trade in
Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) are allowed to be used.
Chemically processed agro-ingredients may contain mineral moieties.
• Note- alcohol and other by-products of fermentation are chemically processed
agro-ingredients.
• It is allowed to use ingredients of animal origin as long as:
• They are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal.
• They do not entail the death of the animal concerned,
• They have been obtained using only the processes listed in table II

15. Table II: Chemical process allowed Table III: Chemical processed not
allowed
 Alkylation
 Biotechnology process
 Calcination of plant ash
 Esterification
 Etherification
 Hydration
 Hydrolysis
 Ionic exchange
 Oxidation/reduction
 Saponification
 Alkoxylation using ethylene oxide,
propylene oxide or other alkylene
oxide.
 Bleaching
 Ionizing radiation
 Treatment using mercury

16. COMPOSITION OF TOTAL PRODUCT
• The COSMOS standard covers two levels for finished products:
• Cosmetic products under organic certification. [Certified as COSMOS
ORGANIC]
• Cosmetic products under natural certification. [Certified as COSMOS
NATURAL]
1. Rules for Cosmetic Products Under Organic Certification
a) Ingredients:
• At least 95% of the physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic.
• The remaining physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic if they are
listed in table IV.
• The chemically processed agro-ingredients listed in table V must be organic.

17. b) Total Product
• At least 20% of the total product must be organic.
• By exception, for rinse-off products, non-emulsified aqueous
products, and products with at least 80% minerals or ingredients of
mineral origin, at least 10% of the total product must be organic.
Table IV Table V
Common Name INCI Name
Cocoa Butter Theobroma cocoa
Cow’s milk Lac
Honey Mel
Lemon Citrus lemon oil
Soya Glycine soya oil
Chemical Name INCI Name
Ethyl Alcohol Ethanol

18. Rules for Cosmetic Products Under Natural Certification
• There is no requirement to use a minimum level of organic
ingredients.
• Base formulas with no organic content (e.g., shampoo bases, soap
bases) cannot go through the normal Approval process.
• Instead, they must be certified under COSMOS NATURAL
certification (therefore including an on-site inspection).

19. Storage, Manufacturing and Packaging
 Storage:
Storage area must be labelled clearly to avoid any confusion or risk to
the integrity of the products.
 Manufacturing:
Different manufacturing processes must be separated to prevent
contamination of organic or natural ingredients.
There must be quality control system which includes:
• Complete traceability of ingredients and final products.
• Manufacturing procedures throughout all stages.
• Ingredient and product testing
• Analysis, manufacturing and storage records.

20. 3. Packaging
Primary and secondary packaging components must meet the following
criteria.
a. To minimize the direct and indirect environmental impacts of packaging
during its life cycle.
b. All the material must be on the list of accepted materials as listed in below.
• CA-Cellulose Acetate
• Cellulose
• Ceramic
• Glass
• Metals such as Aluminium, Iron, Stainless Steel.
• Paper/Cardboard

21. • PE-Polyethylene.
• PET-Polyethylene Terephthalate
• PETG - Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol PLA-Polylactic Acid
• PP-Polypropylene
• Rubber (from natural origin)
• Wood
• Any other material 100% from natural origin

22. c) It is forbidden to use these materials in packaging:
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other chlorinated plastics
• Polystyrene and other plastics containing styrene
• materials or substances that contain, have been derived from, or
manufactured using GMOs.
• part of animals or substances produced by animals (e.g. leather, silk).
d) Only the following propulsive gases may be used:
• Air, Oxygen ,Nitrogen ,Carbon dioxide, Argon.

23. ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT
1. Environmental management plan
• It must addresses manufacturing waste, including gaseous, liquid and
solid waste.
• It must aim to reduce, reuse, recycle waste products.
• It must follow ISO 14000 guidelines.
2. Cleaning and Hygiene
• Following disinfectants are used:
• iso-propyl alcohol ,amphoteric surfactants , hydrogen peroxide, mineral
acids and alkalis, formic acid, plant-based cleaning products

24. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION
Labelling condition products under organic certification
• Must be labelled with the signature 'COSMOS ORGANIC with the seal of
the COSMOS-standard AISBL member organization.
• Must indicate the certification body on the label.
• Must indicate on the label the percentage of organic origin ingredients by
weight in the total product, as "x% organic of total."
• Must indicate organic ingredients and those made from organic raw
materials in the INCI list.
• The product must not be called "organic", unless it is at least 95% organic.

25. CERTIFICATION AND APPROVAL OF PRODUCT LABELLING
.
Approval of Product Specification
Submission of Proposed Labelling Application
Provisional Approval is given to labelling
Final Approval of labelling by Certification Body (BDIH and ECOCERT)
Printing the label
Certification process is completed
Product can be launched
Manufacturer needs to make change to
products
They must be notified to certification body
Wait for final approval

26. Guidelines with respects to preservatives:
• Cosmetics preservatives allowed by Ecocert and COSMOS are
considered more skin friendly than some traditional preservatives.
• Most are naturally occurring in botanical and so are considered by
certifying bodies to be suitable for products marketed as natural .
• According to the latest Ecocert and COSMOS standards the following
preservatives are allowed in cosmetics products certified as Natural and
Cosmetics.
Examples: Benzoic acid and its salts, Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid
and its salts, Salicylic acid and its salts, Sorbic acid and its salts.

27. Emollient:
• According to the latest Ecocert and COSMOS standards the
following emollients are allowed in cosmetics products
certified as Natural and Cosmetics.
Examples: Decyl glcoside, Palmitic acid and stearic acid,
Jojoba ester, propanediol, hydrogenated vegetable oil, lanolin,
glyceryl olivate estolites, Bees wax, citric acid,

28. Foaming Agents:
According to COSMOS standards the following foaming
agents are used for natural and organic cosmetics.
• Coco-Betaine
• Cocamidopropyle Betaine
• Sodium Cocoamphoacetate.
• SLS
• Decyl glucoside
• Lauryl glucoside

29. Emulsifiers
According to COSMOS standards the following emulsifying agents are
used for natural and organic cosmetics.
• Cetearyl alcohol
• Sorbitan oleate
• Hydrogenated castor oil
• Stearic acid
• Cholesterol
• Glycerine
• Glyceryl oleate

30. Rheology Modifiers
According to COSMOS standards the following rheology agents are
used for natural and organic cosmetics.
• Xanthan gums
• Apricot Kernal oil
• Hydrogenated vegetable oil
• Cellulose gum and MCC
• Avocado oil
• Hydrogenated Rapeseed Alcohol

31. Labelling and Communication
• General rule should be clear and non misleading to consumer.
• For products under organic certification must be labelled with
signature ‘ COSMOS ORGANIC’ and ‘COSMOS NATURAL’ in
conjugation with the seal of COSMOS Standard organization. The
product must not be called organic for example ‘organic shampoo’
unless it is at least 95% organic measured as a percentage of the total
product.
• Indicate certification body and percentage on the label.
• Organic content- COSMOS certificate
• Raw material- COSMOS Approved

32. • Use of signature, Name or term related to the standard:
-Literature
- Advertising
- Publicity
-Website

33. • COSMOS Natural certified by Ecocert Green life according to
COSMOS standard,
• Paraben Free | Sulphate Free
Formulated with natural and botanical extracts and tends to change colour
over the period of time. However, the effectiveness remains the same.
• Store in a cool & dry place. Certification
Discontinue usage if irritation occurs.
• For external use only
Mfd.& Mktd, by: Azafran Innovacion Ltd.
Net weight when packed: 100 gm

34. Conclusion
• COSMOS stands for Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard. Sets
certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products
in Europe.
• Objectives of Cosmos.
• Concentrations of foaming agents to be used in different cosmetic
• products. Various herbal cosmetic products according to COSMOS

35. References
• https://www.slideshare.net/DEVJAIN17/review-of-guidelines-for-
herbal-cosmetics-by-cosmos
• https://www.slideshare.net/purvayeole1/herbal-cosmetics-by-
private-bodies-like-cosmospptx

36. THANK YOU