Fabric Manufacturing Engineering-I

1. History of Muslin

2. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Submitted To…
Md. Mahbubul Haque
Senior Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Submitted By…
Tabassum Islam Tanha (181-160-801)
Amdadul Haque Neshat (181-201-801)
Mahi Al Fateh Khan (181-209-801)
Md. Abid Hossain (181-211-801)
Nazmus Sakib (181-212-801)

3. Introduction
Mahi Al Fateh Khan
181-209-801

4. INTRODUCTION
Muslin also mousseline or Malmal, is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is
made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse
sheeting. Muslins were imported into Europe from the Bengal region, in
the eastern part of the Indian subcontinent, during much of the 17th and
18th centuries and were later manufactured in Scotland and England.

5. WHAT IS BENGAL/DHAKAI MUSLIN
Bengal Muslin is a light cotton fabric of plain weave, finely woven and
typically white in color.
Other name of Muslin is wind silk, woven of air.
It is natural and hand made.
It is ultra light, glossy and fine that one yard of the fabric weight only
10 grams.
Six yard of fabric could pass through in a ring of the index finger.

6. “Cloth is passes through a ring”

7. CLASSIFICATION OF BENGAL MUSLIN
Muslin fabric quality ranging from the finest texture used by the highly
aristocratic people, the emperor, nawabs and so on, - down to the coarse
thick wrapper used by the poor people.
Muslins were designated by names denoting either fineness or
transparency of texture, or the place of manufacture or the uses to which
they were applied as articles of dress.

8. Classification
Md. Abid Hossain
181-211-801

9. NAME OF MUSLIN (THERE ARE 15 NAME OF MUSLIN)
Malmal: The finest sort of Muslin was called
Malmal/Malmal Shahi or Malbul Khas. It was
costly, and the weavers spent a long time,
sometimes six months, to make a piece. It was
used by emperors, nawabs etc.
Khassa: was special quality, fine or
elegant.

10. Abirawan: was fancifully compared with
running water.
Jhuna: was used by native dancers.

11. Rang: was very transparent and net-
like texture.
Shabnam: was as morning dew.

12. Jamdanee: was figured cloth.
Alaballee: was very fine.
Tanzib: was as the adorning the body.
Nayansukh: was as pleasing to the eye.
Buddan khas: was a special sort of cloth.
Seerbund: used for turbans.
Kumees: used for making shirts.
Doorea: was striped.
Charkona: was chequered cloth.

13. DIFFERENT BETWEEN COTTON & MUSLIN
Muslin is a type of woven cotton fabric.
It differs from other lightweight cotton fabrics like shirting and calico due
to it’s lighter and looser weave, and it usually has a lower thread count
overall, with fewer warp threads and increased spacing between the the
warp threads. It is most often made from unbleached cotton, and is of a
beige-ish white colour, and weaving flaws will be readily apparent to the
naked eye.
Due to its low cost, designers and pattern makers will often use muslin to
test and work out the construction of a garment before cutting into the
expensive fabrics that will ultimately become the garment. It is also used
to line garments, and as a quilt backing. It was first woven in ancient
times, and is believed to have originated in Bangladesh.

14. History
Tabassum Islam Tanha
181-160-801

15. HISTORY OF BANGLE MUSLIN
Durgadas Lahiri has mentioned in
Bharatbarsher Itihas that in 1462 BC most
mummies of Egypt were covered in muslins.
The thread count was thick.
Another earliest known reference to the
muslin fabric is in Chanakya’s Arthashastra
from the 4th century BC.

16. HISTORY
There are many stories about the transparent
quality of the mulmul khas.
One of the most enduring is that of Emperor
Aurangzeb blaming his daughter princess Zeb-
un-Nisa, for appearing in transparent dress in
court.
She replied, to the wondering her father, that
her dress, in fact, consisted of seven separate
layers of muslin.

17. IS MUSLIN LOST?
-Dhakai Muslin was one of the purest, simplest, most
gentle and most perfect fabrics in the world, which is
lost.
-Weather and cotton were the most important factor
to make the Muslin-no more
-The skilled worker and women –no more
-Brahmaputra/Shitalakkha river (environment) and
white (Phuti)Corpus cotton –no more
This is happened after the defeat in Battle of
Palashi:1757

18. HOW THE MUSLIN TECHNOLOGY FORGOTTEN?
In one word we can say –yes. after the defeat of
Siraj Ud Daulla 1757.
In eighteenth century, the Bengali muslin industry
was ruthlessly suppressed by various colonial
policies, The East India Company policy, which
favored imports of industrially manufactured
textiles from Britain. Then the brutality to muslin
weavers was intense.
William Bolts, a legendary merchant noted in 1772
that there were instances where “thumbs were cut
off” in order to stop the production of wind silk
(Muslin).

19. Since young I have been hearing from
people – family members, teachers, etc. – talk
about how the British cut off the hands or
thumbs and tongues of Bengal weavers in
order to stop and destroy the production of
Muslin, the famous textiles of Bengal.
The torturing was designed to prevent
weavers from undertaking weaving and the
cutting off of tongues were said to have been
for the purpose of preventing the weavers
from passing on the knowledge of weaving
through words of mouth.

20. The E.I.C appointed local spy – Gomosta,
they worked like Mirzafor for getting the
prize from ECI. They played crucial role
for torturing the local weavers
Also the British systematically destroyed
the muslin production by levying a 70–
80% tax on domestic muslin fabrics.
The East India Company also destroys –
the white (Phuti)Corpus cotton tree The
East India Company wanted to sell their
owncotton goods, and they destroyed the local industry. As a result, the
quality of muslin suffered greatly and its finesse was nearly lost in two
centuries.

21. Properties & Technology
Amdadul Haque Neshat
181-201-801

22. PROPERTIES
• Muslin fabric is so soft and fine in nature . It has a great characteristics
that a muslin 6 yards of smooth sarees capable of passing through ring.
• A full muslin saree can be folded in such a way that it can fit into a
match box.
• Threads of muslin was produced through a special process.
• Most of the muslin fabric is unbleached.

23. • The count of muslin fabric thread approximately 112 – 140 count.
• Number of threads in that fabric varied from 128-160 per inch
according to geometry.
• Muslin fabric was used as the ornament part of women dress in Europe
countries.
• It has the crisp texture.
• This muslin fabric is semi transparent.

24. PRODUCTION
• Muslin , plain-woven cotton fabric made in various weights.
• The better qualities of muslin are fine and smooth in texture and are
woven from evenly spun warps and wefts, or fillings.
• They are given a soft finish, bleached piece dyed and are sometimes
patterned in the loom or printed.
• The coarser varieties are often of irregular yarns and textures, bleached,
unbleached, or pieced dyed and are generally finished by the
application od sizing.
• Grades of muslin are known by such names as book, mull, swiss and
sheeting.

25. TECHNOLOGY
FROM FIELD TO FACTORY
A mature cotton boll is the basis of a muslin fabric . Muslin begins with
the cotton boll. When mature, cotton bolls open revealing the plant's soft
mass of white fibres . These are picked either by hand or by machine;
hand-picking is labour-intensive but results in cleaner lint or fibres , while
machine-picking is faster and more cost-effective. Once picked, the lint
must be cleaned. This is done by the cotton gin, a machine that separates
the lint from any cotton seeds that were picked. The lint is pressed into a
large bundle or bale and stored.

26. FROM BALE TO BOBBIN
An industrial bobbin can be made of cotton thread.
Once baled, the cotton is sent to be carded. Carding is the
process in which cotton lint is aligned so that the fibres travel in
one direction. From there, the cotton is ready to be spun into
thread. For centuries, spinning was done by hand but machines
now process the cotton, stretching the cotton fibres to a
uniform thickness of thread. This thread is wrapped onto
bobbins.

27. WEAVING COTTON MUSLIN
See the muslin weaver working at his loom? What elegant garments were
made from this cloth
Plain white cotton warp threads on a loom are used to create muslin cloth
. The cotton thread is now ready to be woven on a loom. The vertically
threaded cotton, called the warp, is strengthened by adding sizing or
starch. The warp is mechanically lifted while a shuttle, threaded with
additional cotton called the weft , shoots across the gap produced as the
wires of the loom lift and separate the warp threads. Muslin is a plain
weave without any pattern; the warp and weft threads are identical.

28. Uses & Conclusion
Nazmus Sakib
181-211-801

29. JAMDANI
The new age Muslin: Jamdani
Only jamdani, known as “figured muslin” due to
the flower and abstract motifs woven on it,
survived to the present times.
Its breathability, the open weave and lightweight
fabric of muslin allows for airflow, reducing the
risk of overheating.

30. In our culture, Jamdani still famous and used in traditional occasion's like
marriage.

31. USES
The use of Muslin in modern edge
For baby
cloth
For bandage For filtering For backing

32. CONCLUSION
Muslin is our pride, our own wealth. Though we lost our
pure Muslin fabric and its technology yet we have its
derivatives. We need to protect our culture & make
own production of those derivatives. Our technology
becomes smart and developed. So we need to try to
make Muslin fabric by our own effort.

33. Weaving age-old motifs into a sari of “New Age Muslin,” master weaver Al-Amin received
support last year from Drik, the National Museum and the crafts NGO Aarong to begin a revival
initiative.

34. Thank