2. BANARAS BROCADES
Banaras (Varanashi) A Holy of Utter Pradesh
The “holy city of the Hindus”, Benaras, is on
the banks of the river Ganga in the eastern
part of Uttar Pradesh.
This city is home to several artisanal
traditions and one of the best known of which
is handloom weaving.
3. • The industry, which flourished in the Vedic
period, had reached its peak during the later
part of the sixteenth century due to the
patronage of the Mughal Emperors.
• The Mughals emphasized floral designs and
the Naqshabands (pattern makers) gained
importance in the royal courts.
5. Banaras Brocade Sarees are made of finely
woven silk and decorated with intricate
designs using zari; this ornamentation is what
makes the sarees heavy.
Their special characteristics are Mughal-
inspired designs/elements such as intricate
floral and foliate motifs, such as kalga and
bel.
7. Other features are gold work, compact weaving,
figures with small details, metallic visual effects,
“jali” (a net-like pattern) and “meena” work.
These are woven on the conventional Banaras
hand loom jacquard, sometimes with “jala”,
“pagia” and “naka” attachments for the creation
of motifs.
11. • Brocades in Banaras textiles are the patterns
that are created in weaving by transfixing or
thrusting the pattern thread between the
warp.
• In regular weaving, the weft thread passes
over and under the warp thread. But when
brocades are woven, special threads are
transfixed in between the weft over warp.
12. • Varanasi is well known for its different styles
of weaving.
• When the silk background is hardly visible
because it is overlaid solidly with gold and
silver, the fabric is called kinkhab.
• If the background is entirely gold and silver
and the pattern is in silk, it is called minakari.
15. • The most elaborate embroidered look in
brocade is described as kadwa.
• The Benaras weavers also excel in
the Jamdani technique, both in cotton and
silk.
• Some of the evocative names for banaras
designs include chameli, jasmine,
pannahazar, thousand emeralds, gendabutti,
the marigold motif, pan buti etc.,
17. • A typical sari will have floral, trellis or jail
(lattice) designs with a prominent border, and
an ornamental pallu, which may also add a
konia.
• The Konia, paisley or floral motif is woven in
the two corners where the pallu begins.
19. • While the traditions of Varanasi’s textile weaving
is ancient, the stability of its foundations has
been shaken due to power loom imitations.
• Contemporary innovations in handlooms have
enticed many fashion-conscious women to return
to the Banaras saree as the most attractive
fashion statement.
