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StudyOn WovenFabric Design
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN AND
TECHNOLAGY
KAZI IQBAL HOSSAIN
Department : fdt
Id : 2163401030
Batch : 13th
Recentdevelopmentin denimmanufacturing
 Introduction: Traditionally the denim fabric is made of 100 per cent cotton indigo dyed warp and
white weft yarn of coarser counts. Comfort and fit are very important aspects of denim garments.
 So, a lot of research has being done to make stretch denims. elastane fibers are incorporated into the
fabric.
 Lycra and Spandex are used in weft yarn.
 Ring and open-end core spun yarns are also used in denim to provide stretch property.
Spinning section
 Blow room
 Carding machine
 The function of carding machine-
 Removal of extraneous and dust
 Elimination of short fibers
 Removal of neps
 Blending properly
Spinning section
 Draw Frames
 In draw-frames, slivers from different carding machines are brought together to form a homogenous
blend and parallelism of the fibers is further enhanced. The fiber hookends that are a part of the fiber
nature are flattened and fibers are further elongated.
 Roving Frames
 Spinning – Ring Frames
Windingsection
 The last phase of the yarn production is the Winding Process. Here the cops produced by the ring
machines are joined together and transformed into the bobbin format of specific length . The
joining process is very important from the point of view of productivity of the subsequent phases
where bobbins will be used and final appearance of the fabric. During the winding process , the
yarns are monitored for every mm of the way by high technology sensors on the bobbin machines
and the faulty areas that may affect the texture of the fabric are eliminated. Any yarn defects
(unevenness, yarn count, thin & thick places etc.) are detected and removed during winding. Yarn
spinning is completed by winding process.
warpingsection
 Two methods of warping are practiced. These are ball warping and direct warping. Ball Warping –
from the point of view of color quality and authentic appearance is the preliminary preparation for
the Rope Dyeing Systemwhich is the preferred system of denim production. The yarns that will be
used in the warping of the fabric are stacked in the ball warping machines Creel section and all
brought to the front of the machine to be transformed into Rope . The Rope thus produced and
Cones are warped as ropes at ball warping and prepared for Indigo rope dyeing process.
Weaving section
 Nowadays, different functions and processing steps are integrated into the weaving preparatory
processes to increase quality, flexibility and economic viability. Denim fabrics are mostly woven on
high speed airjet looms. Various loom manufacturers are offering a number of modifications to
weave fault free high quality fabric.
 Main parts of weaving machine:
 Warp beam
 Heddles
 Reed
 Shuttle
 Drop pin
 Fabric beam
Developmentof Weavingmachine
 here sheds the light on how the weaving machine manufacturers and woven fabric producers might
strengthen the weaving industry by further advanced the rapier technology with the help of electro-
mechanics, electronics, microprocessors, information technology and their application to the
production of woven fabrics. Development in Filling Insertion
• Picking Speed
• Prewinder Switch-off Monitoring
• Light and Small Rapier Head
• Developments in Shedding Mechanism
• Controllable Shed Geometry
• Electronic Setting of Shed Crossing
• Shortest Drive Path
Developmentof Weavingmachine
 Development in Let-off Mechanism
 The electronic motor driven let-off supplies the loom with necessary wrap yarn,
maintaining the yarn tension constant from full beam to empty beam. Let-off
speed is automatically calculated in context with loom speed, weft density, wrap
beam diameter & close loop tension control.
 Developments in Take-Up Mechanism
Finishingsection
 Finishing section is consists of :
 Desizing.
 Mercerizing.
 Stentering.
 Shrinkage controlling.
 Functional finishes : Functional finishes such as antibacterial finishes, UV- protection
finishes are applied on denim fabrics to improve functional performances of denim
fabrics. The use of nano-clay is also reported to impart old look, soft handle, flame
retardant and antibacterial properties to denim fabrics.
Finishingmethod
 Discontinuous finishing method for weftelastic denim
 The semi-continuous finishing method for weft- elastic denim
 The fully continuous finishing method for weft- elastic denim
 The latest fully continuous finishing method for weft- elastic denim
Developmentof finishingsection-(Monfortspossibilitiesfor finishing
denim)
 Monforts offers a wide variety of processes and ranges for the finishing of denim.
For the finishing of grey denim fabric after cleaning and singeing, for example (e.g),
padders, foam applicators, minimum-liquor applicators, numerous versions of
stretching- and skewing-units, dryers and compressive shrinkage ranges. Processes
and ranges are offered for desizing, mercerising, bleaching, stripping, continuous
dyeing, washing, drying and coating in order to create special effects.
Washing
 Washing of denim garments is one of the most important processes. This process
adds a lot of value to the final garment. In the washing process, fading effect is
imparted to the denim products. There are many methods to impart faded effects.
The traditionally washing is done using any of the methods or combinations such as
stone washing, washing with strong bleaching agents such as sodium hypochlorite,
potassium per magnet.
 There are two types of denim washing :
• Wet process
• Dry process
WETPROCESS
 Rinse wash
 Enzyme bleaching wash
 Softeners wash
 Acid wash
 Rubber ball wash
 Garments wash
 Heavy enzyme and stone wash
 Sand wash
 Tie wash
Dryprocess
 Hand sand
 Sand blast
 Whisker
 Laser whisker
 Destroy
 Pp spray
 Tagging
 Grinding
 Crinkle
 3-D Crinkle
 PP rubbing
 Resin spray
 Heat pressing
 Pocket marking
 Seam marking
 Center crease
Developmentin washingof denimfabrics
 These processes are not environment friendly. Alternative methods have been developed.
 Cellulases enzymes are used in place of pumice stone to impart abraded effect. Laccase based
bleaching technique is developed. This enzyme only attacks indigo dyed yarn bit does affect nature
of white weft yarn. It can also be used to bleach fabrics containing elastane filaments without losing
stretch property.
 Laser based techniques are used to give faded effect. Further this technique can also be used to
create motifs on the denim fabrics.
 Ozone base denim washing treatments have been developed. In this process, ozone gas is used as
bleaching agent, which attacks indigo dyes and destroy to create faded look.
WorldDenimMarket
 The world denim market is likely to grow continuously for the next few years. However, supply is
growing at a faster pace.
 World Jeans Market- 51.6$ Billion in 2007 and 56.2$ billion in 2014
 Expected to become 61.4$ billion by 2021
 Global demand growing at 7%, supply at 10%
 Global Denim fabric production in 2015- 4.1 billion mtrs.
 Over 50 percent of denim production is based in Asia with China, India, Turkey, Pakistan and
Bangladesh.
 Between EU, US and China, 75% of world jeans consumption.
Estimated Share of Jeans Purchase By Region
 North America : 39%
 Western Europe : 20%
 Japan & Korea : 10%
 Rest of the world : 31%
No. Of DenimMillsWorldwide
Region No. Of Denim Mills
Asia(China) 297
Asia(Other countries) 104
North America 9
Europe 41
Latin America 46
Africa 15
Australia 3
Total Denim Mills (World) 515
Conclusion
 In conclusion, it is well accepted that denim is an evergreen fashion and liked by all
irrespective of gender, age and profession. A lot of innovation and research are to
be done on continuous basis to fulfill requirements of diverse consumers keeping
in mind its impact on society and environment.
Thank You.

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Study on woven fabric design

  • 2. DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN AND TECHNOLAGY KAZI IQBAL HOSSAIN Department : fdt Id : 2163401030 Batch : 13th
  • 3. Recentdevelopmentin denimmanufacturing  Introduction: Traditionally the denim fabric is made of 100 per cent cotton indigo dyed warp and white weft yarn of coarser counts. Comfort and fit are very important aspects of denim garments.  So, a lot of research has being done to make stretch denims. elastane fibers are incorporated into the fabric.  Lycra and Spandex are used in weft yarn.  Ring and open-end core spun yarns are also used in denim to provide stretch property.
  • 4. Spinning section  Blow room  Carding machine  The function of carding machine-  Removal of extraneous and dust  Elimination of short fibers  Removal of neps  Blending properly
  • 5. Spinning section  Draw Frames  In draw-frames, slivers from different carding machines are brought together to form a homogenous blend and parallelism of the fibers is further enhanced. The fiber hookends that are a part of the fiber nature are flattened and fibers are further elongated.  Roving Frames  Spinning – Ring Frames
  • 6. Windingsection  The last phase of the yarn production is the Winding Process. Here the cops produced by the ring machines are joined together and transformed into the bobbin format of specific length . The joining process is very important from the point of view of productivity of the subsequent phases where bobbins will be used and final appearance of the fabric. During the winding process , the yarns are monitored for every mm of the way by high technology sensors on the bobbin machines and the faulty areas that may affect the texture of the fabric are eliminated. Any yarn defects (unevenness, yarn count, thin & thick places etc.) are detected and removed during winding. Yarn spinning is completed by winding process.
  • 7. warpingsection  Two methods of warping are practiced. These are ball warping and direct warping. Ball Warping – from the point of view of color quality and authentic appearance is the preliminary preparation for the Rope Dyeing Systemwhich is the preferred system of denim production. The yarns that will be used in the warping of the fabric are stacked in the ball warping machines Creel section and all brought to the front of the machine to be transformed into Rope . The Rope thus produced and Cones are warped as ropes at ball warping and prepared for Indigo rope dyeing process.
  • 8. Weaving section  Nowadays, different functions and processing steps are integrated into the weaving preparatory processes to increase quality, flexibility and economic viability. Denim fabrics are mostly woven on high speed airjet looms. Various loom manufacturers are offering a number of modifications to weave fault free high quality fabric.  Main parts of weaving machine:  Warp beam  Heddles  Reed  Shuttle  Drop pin  Fabric beam
  • 9. Developmentof Weavingmachine  here sheds the light on how the weaving machine manufacturers and woven fabric producers might strengthen the weaving industry by further advanced the rapier technology with the help of electro- mechanics, electronics, microprocessors, information technology and their application to the production of woven fabrics. Development in Filling Insertion • Picking Speed • Prewinder Switch-off Monitoring • Light and Small Rapier Head • Developments in Shedding Mechanism • Controllable Shed Geometry • Electronic Setting of Shed Crossing • Shortest Drive Path
  • 10. Developmentof Weavingmachine  Development in Let-off Mechanism  The electronic motor driven let-off supplies the loom with necessary wrap yarn, maintaining the yarn tension constant from full beam to empty beam. Let-off speed is automatically calculated in context with loom speed, weft density, wrap beam diameter & close loop tension control.  Developments in Take-Up Mechanism
  • 11. Finishingsection  Finishing section is consists of :  Desizing.  Mercerizing.  Stentering.  Shrinkage controlling.  Functional finishes : Functional finishes such as antibacterial finishes, UV- protection finishes are applied on denim fabrics to improve functional performances of denim fabrics. The use of nano-clay is also reported to impart old look, soft handle, flame retardant and antibacterial properties to denim fabrics.
  • 12. Finishingmethod  Discontinuous finishing method for weftelastic denim  The semi-continuous finishing method for weft- elastic denim  The fully continuous finishing method for weft- elastic denim  The latest fully continuous finishing method for weft- elastic denim
  • 13. Developmentof finishingsection-(Monfortspossibilitiesfor finishing denim)  Monforts offers a wide variety of processes and ranges for the finishing of denim. For the finishing of grey denim fabric after cleaning and singeing, for example (e.g), padders, foam applicators, minimum-liquor applicators, numerous versions of stretching- and skewing-units, dryers and compressive shrinkage ranges. Processes and ranges are offered for desizing, mercerising, bleaching, stripping, continuous dyeing, washing, drying and coating in order to create special effects.
  • 14. Washing  Washing of denim garments is one of the most important processes. This process adds a lot of value to the final garment. In the washing process, fading effect is imparted to the denim products. There are many methods to impart faded effects. The traditionally washing is done using any of the methods or combinations such as stone washing, washing with strong bleaching agents such as sodium hypochlorite, potassium per magnet.  There are two types of denim washing : • Wet process • Dry process
  • 15. WETPROCESS  Rinse wash  Enzyme bleaching wash  Softeners wash  Acid wash  Rubber ball wash  Garments wash  Heavy enzyme and stone wash  Sand wash  Tie wash
  • 16. Dryprocess  Hand sand  Sand blast  Whisker  Laser whisker  Destroy  Pp spray  Tagging  Grinding  Crinkle  3-D Crinkle  PP rubbing  Resin spray  Heat pressing  Pocket marking  Seam marking  Center crease
  • 17. Developmentin washingof denimfabrics  These processes are not environment friendly. Alternative methods have been developed.  Cellulases enzymes are used in place of pumice stone to impart abraded effect. Laccase based bleaching technique is developed. This enzyme only attacks indigo dyed yarn bit does affect nature of white weft yarn. It can also be used to bleach fabrics containing elastane filaments without losing stretch property.  Laser based techniques are used to give faded effect. Further this technique can also be used to create motifs on the denim fabrics.  Ozone base denim washing treatments have been developed. In this process, ozone gas is used as bleaching agent, which attacks indigo dyes and destroy to create faded look.
  • 18. WorldDenimMarket  The world denim market is likely to grow continuously for the next few years. However, supply is growing at a faster pace.  World Jeans Market- 51.6$ Billion in 2007 and 56.2$ billion in 2014  Expected to become 61.4$ billion by 2021  Global demand growing at 7%, supply at 10%  Global Denim fabric production in 2015- 4.1 billion mtrs.  Over 50 percent of denim production is based in Asia with China, India, Turkey, Pakistan and Bangladesh.  Between EU, US and China, 75% of world jeans consumption.
  • 19. Estimated Share of Jeans Purchase By Region  North America : 39%  Western Europe : 20%  Japan & Korea : 10%  Rest of the world : 31%
  • 20. No. Of DenimMillsWorldwide Region No. Of Denim Mills Asia(China) 297 Asia(Other countries) 104 North America 9 Europe 41 Latin America 46 Africa 15 Australia 3 Total Denim Mills (World) 515
  • 21. Conclusion  In conclusion, it is well accepted that denim is an evergreen fashion and liked by all irrespective of gender, age and profession. A lot of innovation and research are to be done on continuous basis to fulfill requirements of diverse consumers keeping in mind its impact on society and environment.