Study on Exports T-Shirts Manufacturing Units in Tirupur
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This research project studied T-shirt manufacturing export units in the Tiruppur cluster of India. The study observed current operating procedures and aimed to design a standard operating procedure to improve efficiency. Data was collected through site visits, interviews and photos/videos. Analysis found most units operated below average capacity and had high rework rates. Based on the analysis, a new SOP was proposed to help units standardize processes and reduce waste. Key recommendations included reducing unnecessary material movement between processes and using common cutting panels to minimize fabric waste from large prints/embroidery.
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Study on Exports T-Shirts Manufacturing Units in Tirupur
- 1. NATIONALINSTITUTEOFFASHIONTECHNOLOGY,CHENNAI DEPARTMENTOFFASHIONTECHNOLOGY RESEARCHPROJECT END-TERMJURY STUDYONEXPORT T-SHIRTMANUFACTURINGUNITS IN TIRUPPURCLUSTER BY : ABHISHEK RAJ V.VIJAYA BHARATI, DFT –VIII, NIFT, CHENNAI
- 2. Introduction This Research Project was on exports manufacturing units based inTirupur. The study was focused onT- Shirt manufacturing process as well as all other process which took place in fabric warehouse, spreading-cutting, sewing, quality and finishing department. Study was conducted to observe the current situation as well as to suggest ways and methods to enhanceTirupur garment exports factories in terms of productivity, wastage, rework, rejection etc.
- 3. Aim To observe the current operating procedures followed and to design a fundamental Standard Operating Procedure for the t- shirt manufacturing export units inTirupur cluster.
- 4. Objective To provide any ExportT-shirt manufacturing units inTirupur cluster who perform operations with all operational information required to perform a job properly. To improve efficiency of all the departments To ensure that operations are done consistently quality of processes and products maintained completed on a prescribed schedule no failures occur in industrial processes
- 5. Methodology ParticipantObservations Data Collection-Cluster sampling Primary Data In Person Interview Digital Data (Picture andVideos) DataAnalysis Designing SOP Documentation
- 6. Review of Literature Gone through some journals, projects, thesis and articles related to the objective available in NIFT, Chennai resource center, NITRA Library and internet. Previously Ministry ofTextile was also conducted this type of study based in Delhi NCR cluster.That study was on “Performance Assessment of Apparel Industries: Process andTools for Enhancing Competitiveness” conducted in 2008 by Methods Apparel Consultancy Pvt. Ltd. The study was commissioned by GTZ, in association with SIDBI and Okhla Garment andTextile Cluster (OGTC).
- 7. UnitsVisited: Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Anugraha Fashion Aswathi Exports CBC Fashions Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw International
- 11. DataAnalysis Below Avg. 60% Above Avg. 40% MACHINE CAPACITY
- 12. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internatio nal Avg Capacity 12000 6000 6000 8000 8000 4000 1500 3500 5000 10000 6400 Actual 9000 5000 5000 6000 5000 2500 1000 2500 3000 9000 4800 0 2000 4000 6000 8000 10000 12000 14000 Pieces ProductionCapacity
- 14. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internatio nal Avg Overtime 2 1 0 1 0 4 0 4 4 0 1.6 Working Hours 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 Pieces Working Hours
- 15. DataAnalysis 8 hrs 40% 9 hrs 20% 10 hrs 10% 12 hrs 30% WORKING HOURS
- 16. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internatio nal Avg No. of Workers 529 380 400 310 120 110 66 110 75 600 270 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 No.ofWorkers Manpower
- 17. DataAnalysis < 100 Workers 20% < 200 Workers 30% > 200 Workers 50% MANPOWER
- 18. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internatio nal Avg Contractual 20 0 0 0 60 100 100 70 100 0 45 Salaried 80 100 100 100 40 0 0 30 0 100 55 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 No.ofWorkers SALARIED /CONTRACTUAL
- 19. DataAnalysis Salaried Workers 55% Contractual Workers 45% MANPOWER
- 20. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internatio nal Avg SAM 11.81 10.88 10.02 12.53 12.58 11.16 13.4 15.1 19.44 11.26 12.818 Total Operations 22 22 24 16 15 10 12 12 13 20 16.6 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 SAM v/s No. of Operations:
- 21. DataAnalysis SAM Below Avg. 70% SAM Above Avg. 30% SAM
- 22. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internatio nal Rework % 2 10 4 12 5 5 3 8 30 2 Rejection % 3 3 3 0.4 2 1 1 0.2 5 0 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 Inline Inspection Rework % Rejection %
- 23. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internation al Rework % 2 1 1 4 2 2 0 0 1 2 Rejection % 0.7 0.8 0.8 0.2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5 Final Inspection Rework % Rejection %
- 24. DataAnalysis Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creations A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internatio nal Prevention 6808 2583.33 2737.5 20770 9512.5 2455.5 2791.6 23381.25 538.8 31310.4 Appraisal 126688 84291 25583.3 204833.3 144583 156991 81291 7291.6 120416 314916.6 External 43250 4000 30000 150000 57000 17325 6600 40000 1000 83333.3 Internal 113297 16502 340596 473306 6364 22329 39900 38695.5 32160 49820.7 0 50000 100000 150000 200000 250000 300000 350000 400000 450000 500000 Rupees Cost of Quality Prevention Appraisal External Internal
- 25. Conclusion Each company was compared on the basis of Annual turnover Machine capacity Production Capacity Man power Working hour Salaried / contractual SAM wise number of operations Inline inspection Endline inspection Cost of Quality Based on above criteria each company was given Scores.
- 26. Conclusion Kandhan Knitss Exim Knits Free Look Fashion CBC Fashion Aswathi Exports Gokul Knitt Fabs Rammu Creation s A Prigo Garment J-win Fashions Warsaw Internati onal Score 62.5 70 67 52 59 60 56 59 34 94 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 Company Rank Score
- 27. Standard Operating Procedures Based on the data analysis and conclusion out of the 10 units, Warsaw International scored 1st. By observing and studying the SOP of all 10 units and by reviewing international standards & other countries like Bangladesh SOP, a new SOP was made for all the ExportsT-shirts manufacturing unit inTirupur. Proposed SOP for Merchandising, Product Development, CAD, Warehouse, Cutting, Sewing,OB and Finishing.. Keeping the proposed SOP as base any exports t-shirt manufacturing units can use it according to their requirements.
- 28. Need ofSOP Currently there is NO written SOP followed by any of theTirupur exports t-shirt manufacturing units. As per observations many exports t-shirt manufacturing units miss out few Standard Process. Many growing or upcoming exports t-shirt manufacturing units struggle or have a greater learning curve without knowing the Standard Operating Procedures. Effective use of this SOP exports t-shirt manufacturing units in Tirupur will excel in its productivity.
- 29. Benefits of SOP To provide individuals who perform operations with all operational information required to perform a job properly To protect the community To ensure that operations are done consistently in order to maintain quality control of processes and products To ensure that processes continue and are completed on a prescribed schedule To ensure that no failures occur in manufacturing and related processes that would harm employees or anyone in the surrounding community To ensure that approved procedures are followed in compliance with company and government regulations To serve as a training document for teaching users about a process To serve as an historical record of the how, why and when of steps in a process for use when modifications are made to that process and when a SOP must be revised To serve as an explanation of steps in a process that can be reviewed in incident investigations that seek to improve practices and operating.
- 30. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS -1 For the problem like repeated inward and outward which leads to delay, we can send the material after that process from that place to next process place without checking in the unit again and again. Example- yarn is to be purchased from the “AAA SPINNING UNIT” instead of it reaching to “KANDHAN KNITSS” and then to the “BBB KNITTING UNIT” it can directly reach the “BBB KNITTING UNIT”. For the checking the quantity and quality purpose an assigned employee from the unit can be sent to follow up.
- 31. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS -2 FINDINGS Fabric after the processes are laid and cut in the length as mentioned in the marker plan. The cut bits are again sent to washing as the winch capacity will be less for the fabric in roll. Required lay length is measured using tape or scale and marked on the table. SUGGESTIONS Measurements can be marked on the sides of the table and can have a table clip which should be placed exactly at the measurement to indicate the measurement on the surface of the table.
- 32. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS BEFORE SUGGESTION (on either sides of the table) AFTER
- 33. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS -3 Observations- Fabric after bit washing comes back to the cutting table and the marker is marked manually on the fabric as per the marker plan. Sectioned and cut hold able amount of fabric roughly with straight knife and sent for band knife cutting for exact shape cutting. When it comes to bigger size chest prints or embroidery 4 piece marker is cut of same size rectangular bit and send for printing and embroidery. When the style has embroidery or print, fabric is cut and send for the print or embroidery which takes up to 10 days even. Bigger size chest prints or embroidery 4 piece marker is cut of same size rectangular bit and send for printing and embroidery. This leads to high fabric wastage.
- 34. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS Size 74 & 92 on common panel cut
- 35. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS 4 piece marker sizes: Sizes 74 80 86 92 Quantity 58 184 136 259 Full length 13” 13 ½” 14 ½” 15” Common cut panel full length: 16 ½” Excess length 3 ½” 3” 2” 1 ½” Total excess 203”+552”+272”+388.5” Total wastage: 1415.5” Dividing by 15” (full length of size 92) to know how many tee shirt of size 92 can be made out of the total wastage = 94.3
- 36. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS 2 piece marker sizes Sizes 74 80 Quantity 58 184 Full length 13” 13 ½” Common cut panel full length: 13 ½” Excess length ½” 0” Total excess 29” 2 piece marker sizes Sizes 86 92 Quantity 136 259 Full length 14 ½” 15” Common cut panel full length: 15” Excess length ½” 0” Total excess 68”
- 37. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS Total excess 68” Total wastage: 29+68”=98” Dividing by 15” (full length of size 92) to know how many tee shirt of size 92 can be made out of the total wastage. = 6.5 Total wastage: 1415.5” Dividing by 15” (full length of size 92) to know how many tee shirt of size 92 can be made out of the total wastage. = 94.3
- 38. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS -4 Observations- Automatic spreading & cutting machines are used for spreading & cutting. Both Rib fabric and slub fabric are spread using automatic spreading machine. Rib fabric width : 20inch Automatic spreading machine width : 60inch Automatic cutting machine width : 90 inch Only one rib fabric (20inch) is spread & cut at a time
- 39. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS Suggestions- In the place of spreading & cutting 1 rib fabric at a time 3 rib can be spread (equal to automatic spreading machine usable width). By doing this spreading & cutting time can be reduced. Machine utilization increased.
- 40. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS AUTOMATIC SPREADING MACHINE AUTOMATIC CUTTING MACHINE
- 41. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS -5 Observations- MostlyT shirts have chest print on front panel. Therefore after all garment parts cut only the front panel goes for printing which takes a week to get back. Till then the rest of the panels are idle.
- 42. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS CUT PANEL PARTSWAITING FOR FRONT CUT PANEL FROM PRINT
- 43. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS Suggestions- Independent operations to be identified Say in basicT shirt sleeve hem can be done prior. Average time taken for sleeve hem: 15sec Order quantity : 40,000 pcs Total time taken to do sleeve hem : 40,000*15sec= 6,00,000sec =166 hours = 20.5 working days saved.
- 44. FINDINGS & SUGGESTIONS -6 Observations- Fabric rolls are rolled in cardboard tubes Cost of one card board tube is minimum = Rs 8. No. of times it can be used = 1 (mostly) Suggestions- Card board tubes to be replaced by PVC pipes Cost of one PVC pipe= Rs.40 No. of times it can be used = 10 (or more) Benefits- Cost saving Damage to the fabric roll is reduced
- 46. Limitations SOP specially made by consideringTirupur Cluster only. SOP is not readily suitable for any exports manufacturing unit. Employees involved in the SOP may or may not stick on to the procedures.
- 47. FutureScope Addition of many various possible options in each category can be made. Alert the concerned person if Any off track of procedure can be made. Process can be tracked on Phone using developing apps.
- 48. THANKYOU