A report on Costing of Sewing Accessories

1. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
CHENNAI
COSTING OF APPAREL PRODUCTS
ASSIGNMENT-I
COSTING OF SEWING ACCESSORIES
SUBMISSION DATE-FEBRUARY-23-2015
SUBMITTED TO:
MR.AMIT KUMAR ANJANEE,
ASSISTANT PROFESSER
NIFT-CHENNAI
SUBMITTED BY:
ABHISHEK RAJ
ANANYA RAY
VIJAYA BHARATHI
VINOTH KUMAR,A
DFT-VI

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We wish to express our indebted gratitude and special thanks to “Mr. Amit
Kumar Anjanee, Assistant Professor, NIFT, Chennai" who in spite of being
extraordinary in his teaching and carrying out his duties, took time out to hear,
guide and keep us on the correctpath and allowing us to carry out
our assignment work.
We express our deepestthanks to Mr. Sreenivas (Quality Officer) Coats India,
for giving necessary advice and guidance and arranged all facilities. We choose
this moment to acknowledge their contribution gratefully.

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Trims:
 Trim or trimming in clothing and home decorating is applied ornament,
such as gimp, passementerie, ribbon, ruffles, or, as a verb, to apply such
ornament.
 Before the industrial revolution, all trim was made and applied by hand,
thus making heavily trimmed furnishings and garments expensive and
high-status.
 Machine-woven trims and sewing machines put these dense trimmings
within the reach of even modest dressmakers and home sewers, and an
abundance of trimming is a characteristic of mid-Victorian fashion.
 As a predictable reaction, high fashion came to emphasize exquisiteness
of cut and construction over denseness of trimming, and applied trim
became a signifier of mass-produced clothing by the 1930s. The iconic
braid and gold button trim of the Chanel suit are a notable survival of trim
in high fashion.
 In home decorating, the 1980s and 1990s saw a fashion for dense,
elaborately layered trimmings on upholstered furniture and drapery.
 Today, most trimmings are commercially manufactured is known for
elaborate trim for home furnishings, and Wrights is a leading
manufacturer of trim for home sewing and crafts.
 Trimming means decorating a garment with functional or decorative
accessoryparts or details.
 Accessories are part of areas of garments that are not part of its basic
structure, such as buttons, collars, cuffs, or shaped edges.
 Details are trims added to the basic garment, like appliqué, top stitching,
ribbons, pleats, and ruffles
 In garments without fabrics all are accessoriesortrimmings. Its includes
sewing thread, button, interlining, zipper, main label, care label, size
label, tissue paper, ball head pin, silica gee bag, carton, rib and so on.
Garments

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 Accessories/Trims can be describein two broad categories-
1. Swing Accessories -These Accessories are used in Swing purpose.
2. Finishing Accessories-TheseAccessories are used after swing but in
finishing purpose.
 Functional & Decorative
Trims like buttons, zippers, pockets, ric rac, laces, embroideries, patches,
paintings etc.
 Bias tape
 Braid
 Buttons
 Cord
 Embroider by hand or machine
 Gimp
 Lace edgings or insertions
 Passementerie
 Piping
 Ribbon
 Rickrack
 Ruffles or frills
 Tassels
List Of Trims :
1. Buttons
2. Zippers
3. Padding
4. Elastic

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5. Thread
6. Twill Tape
7. Stopper
8. String/Draw Cord
9. Piping Cord
10.Emblem
11.Logo Print
12.Swivel Hook
13.Eyelet/ Grommet
14.Collar Stay
15.Cord Bell
16.Buckle
17.Rivet
18.Weaving Belt
19.Hook and Eye
20.Velcro Tape
21.Seam Sealing tape
22.Shoulder pad
23.Cable( steel ware)
24.Adjuster
25.Recco
26.Elastic Threads
27.Shoulder Tape
28.Composition label
29.Neck board
30.Back board
31.Plastic collar insert

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32.Hang tag
33.Price ticket
34.Ball head pin
35.Tissue paper
36.Poly bag
37.Motif
38.Silica gee bag
39.Interlining
a. Fusible
b. Sewing
40.Label
a. Main label
b. Care label
c. Size label
d. Price label
 Swing Accessories:
 Swing Thread:
Swing threads are made by yarn multiplying becauseit should have
sufficient strength to absorb tension during swing operation.

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 Interlining:
Interlining is one kind of accessories that is used between the two layers
of fabric in a garment. To keep the different component or part of apparel
in a desired shape & strength a kind of fabric is used between the two ply
of fabric by swing or fusing is called interlining.
a. Woven fusible
b. Woven non-fusible
c. Non-woven fusible
d. Non-woven non-fusible
 Use in collar & cuff of shirt. And other garments at Lapels, Blazer front,
Waist belt, Belt loop, Pocketflap also used.
[NB: Non-woven interlining made by paper is called Pelion widely used
in pants because it is cheaper than others & it has no shrinkage.]
 Lining:
These are extra fabric (generally smooth & lustrous made of silk or
manufactured fiber or cotton) used in inner face of bodyfabric at
garments to provide extra protection. Ex. Lining of blazer& coat.
[Taffeta is a general term that refers to any plain woven filament (non-
cotton) yarn fabric. They are may be Unbalance Taffeta, Balance Taffeta,
Meir’s Taffeta & Iridescent Taffeta according to their design.]

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 Elastic:
A term used to describe narrow fabrics incorporating elastomeric fibers,
which extend when stretch & recover their original dimension when the
stretching is removed.
Elastics are broadly used at waist of normal pants, pajama (night dress),
skirt, kid’s trouser (up to 12 years), man’s briefs, lingerie’s and many
other garments.
The size of Elastic is expressed by their width.
They are may be ½”, ¾”, 1”, 1.5”, 2” & more
.
 ZIPPER:
A fastening device operating by means of two parallel rows of metal or
plastic teeth on either side of a closure that are interlocked by a sliding
tab is called zipper.
A zipper (British English: zip or (rarely) zip fastener)is a commonly
used device for temporarily joining two edges of fabric. It is used in
clothing (e.g., jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting goods,
camping gear (e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and other daily use items.
These are used in industrial clothing, typical apparel garments as a
closure in pants, skirt & dresses. Basically it is the part of chain. The
physical part of the zipper are shown in the following figure-

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 Basic Partof Zipper:
1. Zipper Tape: Zipper tape is the woven fabric made by nylon or polyester
or bland fiber. It is treated as critical part of zipper becauseit should be
DTM. It is attach by swing with garments.
2. Teeth: It is made of brass, aluminum or plastic or nylon. Zipper is
opened & closed by these teeth.
3. Slider: It is used to open & close the zipper teeth.
4. Stopper: It controls the slider run out of the zipper.
Usage of Zippers may:
 Increase or decrease the size of an opening to allow or restrict the passage
of objects, as in the fly of trousers or in a pocket
 Join or separate two ends or sides of a single garment, as in the front of a
jacket, dress or skirt.
 Attach or detach a separable part of the garment to or from another, as in
the conversion between trousers and shorts or the connection /
disconnection of a hood and a coat.
 Decorate an item.

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 The bulk of a zipper consists of two strips of fabric tape, each affixed to
one of the two pieces to be joined, carrying from tens to hundreds of
specially shaped metal or plastic teeth.
 These teeth can be either individual or shaped from a continuous coil, and
are also referred to as elements. The slider, operated by hand, moves
along the rows of teeth. Inside the slider is a Y-shaped channel that
meshes together or separates the opposingrows of teeth, depending on
the direction of the slider's movement.
 Some zippers have two sliders, allowing variation in the opening's size
and position. In most jackets and similar garments, the opening is closed
entirely when one slider is at each end. In most baggage, the opening is
closed entirely when the two sliders are next to each other at any point
along the zipper.
 These variations are achieved by sewing one end of the zipper together,
sewing bothends together, or allowing both ends of the zipper to fall
completely apart.
 A zipper costs relatively little, but if it fails, the garment may be unusable
until the zipper is repaired or replaced—which can be quite difficult and
expensive. Problems often lie with the zipper slider; when it becomes
worn it does not properly align and join the alternating teeth. If a zipper
fails, it can either jam (i.e. get stuck) or partially break off.
 Types of Zipper:
 Coil zippers now form the bulk of sales of zippers worldwide. The slider
runs on two coils on each side; the "teeth" are the coils. Two basic types
of coils are used: one with coils in spiral form, usually with a cord
running inside the coils; the other with coils in ladder form, also called
the Ruhrmann type. This second type is now used only in a few parts of
the world, mainly in South Asia. Coil zippers are made of polyester coil
and are thus also known as polyester zippers. Nylon was formerly used
and though only polyester is used now, the type is still known as a nylon
zipper.
 Invisible zippers' teeth are behind the tape. The tape's color matches the
garments, as does the slider, so that, except the slider, the zipper is

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"invisible". This kind of a zipper is common in skirts and dresses.
Invisible zippers are usually coil zippers. They are also seeing increased
use by the military and emergency services because the appearance of a
button down shirt can be maintained, while providing a quick and easy
fastening system.
 Metallic zippers are the classic zipper type, found mostly in jeans today.
The teeth are not a coil, but are individual pieces of metal moulded into
shape and set on the zipper tape at regular intervals. Metal zippers are
made in brass, aluminum and nickel, according to the metal used for teeth
making. All these zippers are basically made from flat wire. A special
type of metal zipper is made from pre-formed wire, usually brass but
sometimes other metals too. Only a few companies in the world have the
technology. This type of pre-formed metal zippers is mainly used in high
grade jeanswear, workwear, etc., where high strength is required and
zippers need to withstand tough washing.
 Plastic-moldedzippers are identical to metallic zippers, except that the
teeth are plastic instead of metal. Metal zippers can be painted to match
the surrounding fabric; plastic zippers can be made in any color of plastic.
Plastic zippers mostly use polyacetal resin though other resins are used as
well, such as polyethylene.
 Open-ended zippers use a "box and pin" mechanism to lock the two
sides of the zipper into place, often in jackets. Open-ended zippers can be
of any of the above specified types.
 Closed-endedzippers are closed at both ends; they are often used in
baggage.
 Airtight zippers were first developed by NASA for making high-altitude
pressure suits and later spacesuits, capable of retaining air pressure inside
the suit in the vacuum of space
 Patches:
 Patches are decorative pieces of trims which are stitched on to the
garments, mainly used for decorative purpose.
 Used mostly in kids, sportswearcategories, can also be used on
accessories.

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 Different materials could be used for making patches example -
embroidered patches or could be made out of different materials like
silicon, rubber etc which could be either stitched with the computer
machine or even heat set.
Mettalic Zipper Concealed Zipper
Waterproof zipper on a diving dry suit. The exterior metal segments clamp the
w aterproof
sheeting over the individual zipper teeth. The zipper teeth are not visible in this
image.
Coil Zipper
Open ended zipper

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 Rib:
Rib is a double jersey fabric. Rib is used as-
 Collar of T-shirt: -this is made by circular knitting machine.
 Collar of Polo-shirt: -this is made by flat-bed knitting machine.
 Collar of sweater.
 Collar of Hoddy.
 Cuff of T-shirt
 Cuff of Polo-shirt
 Cuff of sweater and
 Cuff of hoody
 Shoulder Pad:
For a long time it is being used the shoulder pad to the make of garments
for men & women. Sometimes, it is used as a functional part of garments.
Also sometimes, it is used to increase the beauty of garments as a
decorative part. Shoulder may be different in size, thickness, structure &
quality. It is made from different types of materials but shoulder pad
made from foam is comparatively cheap & easy to wash. It is widely used
in shoulder of coat & blazer.

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 Label:
Label is a tag that gives a description of the performance an inherent in a
fabric for the purposeof aiding the consumer in selection. A label is a
part of garments which indicates the various instructions about garments.
Label is attached with garments by swing. There are following types of
label are available-
Types of Label:
a. Main Label: Contains buyer name or brand name.
b. Size Label: Contains garments size.
c. Care Label: Provides information about washing, ironing, drying
etc.
d. Integrated Label: Contains main label, care label, and size label
in a combination.
 Care label:
It is attach at the side of garments & contain following three information-
 Composition
 Care codeor symbol
 Country of origin
Main label: Contain brand nameor buyername Size label: Containedgarments size.

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 Hook & Bar or Hook & Loop:
Contain 4parts
 Twill Tape or Canvas Tape or Herringbone Tape:
Applications:
 Flap open & close.
 To give particular shape & stable the garments components.
 Decorative purpose.
Canvas Tape

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 Button:
 Button is a knob or disc which can be attached to the garments as a
means of fastening or ornamentation. Button is an essential trim which
is attached with garments as functional or decorative purpose. Button
can be made from different types of materials. Mostly use metal &
plastic.
 The size of button is express as ligne where 1Ligne = 0.635m. At 1st
button diameter is measure through slide calipers & converted in to
ligne.
 According to the number of hole button can be classified as two types-
 In modern clothing and fashion design, a button is small fastener,
most commonly made of plastic, but also frequently of seashell, which
secures two pieces of fabric together. In archaeology, a button can be a
significant artifact. In the applied arts and in craft, a button can be an
example of folk art, studio craft, or even a miniature work of art.
 Buttons are most often attached to articles of clothing but can also be
used on containers such as wallets and bags. However, buttons may be
sewn onto garments and similar items exclusively for purposes of
ornamentation. Buttons serving as fasteners work by slipping through
a fabric or thread loop, or by sliding through a buttonhole.
 Buttons have functional & decorative purpose. Few of them like cloth
button etc are exclusively for decorative purpose.
4-hole button 2-hole button

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 Early button history
 Buttons and button-like objects
used as ornaments or seals rather
than fasteners have been
discovered in the Indus Valley
Civilization as well as Bronze
Age sites in China and Ancient
Rome.
 Buttons made from seashell were used in the Indus Valley Civilization
for ornamental purposes by 2000 BCE. Some buttons were carved into
geometric shapes and had holes pierced into them so that they could
be attached to clothing with thread. Ian McNeil (1990) holds that:
"The button, in fact, was originally used more as an ornament than as
a fastening, the earliest known being found at Mohenjo-daro in the
Indus Valley. It is made of a curved shell and about 5000 years old."
 Functional buttons with buttonholes for fastening or closing clothes
appeared first in Germany in the 13th century. They soonbecame
widespread with the rise of snug-fitting garments in 13th- and 14th-
century Europe.
 Styles of attachment
 Shank buttons have a hollow protrusion on the back through which
thread is sewn to attach the button.
 Button shanks may be made from a separate piece of the same or a
different substanceas the button itself, and added to the back of the
button, or be carved or moulded directly onto the back of the button,
in which latter casethe button is referred to by collectors as having a
'self-shank'.
 Flat or sew-throughbuttons have holes through which thread is sewn
to attach the button. Flat buttons may be attached by sewing machine
rather than by hand, and may be used with heavy fabrics by working a
thread shank to extend the height of the button above the fabric.

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 Snap:
This fastening element contain 4 parts.
 Shank Button:
It is hole-less button contain two part & attached by pressing. Here
button hole is called eyelet.
 Rivet: This fastening element contain 2 parts & used for decorative
purpose& provide extra strength.

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 Materials and Manufacture:
 Because buttons have been manufactured from almost every possible
material, bothnatural and synthetic, and combinations of both, the
history of the material composition of buttons reflects the timeline of
materials technology.
 Buttons can be individually crafted by artisans, craftspeople or artists
from raw materials or found objects (for example fossils), or a
combination of both. Alternately, they can be the productof low-tech
cottage industry or can be mass-produced in high-tech factories.
Buttons made by artists are art objects, known to button collectors as
"studio buttons" (or simply "studios", from studio craft).
 Nowadays, hard plastic, seashell and wood are the most common
materials used in button-making; the others tending to be used only in
premium or antique apparel, or found in collections.
 Porcelean buttons
 Shell buttons
 Woodenbuttons
 Coconutbuttons
 Fabric buttons
 Types of fabric buttons:
 Coveredbuttons are fabric-covered forms with a separate back piece
that secures the fabric over the knob.

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 Mandarin buttons or Frogs are knobs made of intricately knotted
strings. Mandarin buttons are a key element in Mandarin dress where they
are closed with loops. Pairs of mandarin buttons worn as cuff links are
called silk knots.
 Workedor cloth buttons are created by embroidering or crocheting tight
stitches (usually with linen thread) over a knob or ring called a form
 BeadedButtons – Different materials & shapes of beads & sequences
are sewn together on the button , more for decorative purpose.
 Button sizes
 The size of the button depends on its use. Shirt buttons are generally
small, and spaced close together, whereas coat buttons are larger and
spaced further apart. Buttons are commonly measured in lignes (also

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called lines and abbreviated L), with 40 lignes equal to 1 inch. For
example, some standard sizes of buttons are 16 lignes (10.16 mm,
standard button of men's shirts) and 32 lignes (20.32 mm, typical button
on suit jackets).
 The American National Button Society (NBS) has its own button sizing
system which divides button sizes into 'small', 'medium' and 'large'.
 Interesting to know!
 Buttons as containers
 Since at least the seventeenth century, when box-like metal buttons were
constructed especially for the purpose, buttons have been one of the items
in which drug smugglers have attempted to hide and transport illegal
substances. At least one modern smuggler has tried to use this method.
 Also making use of the storage possibilities of metal buttons, during the
World Wars, British and U.S. military locket buttons were made,
containing miniature working compasses.
 Buttons in politics
 The mainly American tradition of politically significant clothing buttons
appears to have begun with the first presidential inauguration of George
Washington in 1789. Known to collectors as 'Washington Inaugurals they
were made of copper, brass or Sheffield plate, in large sizes for coats and
smaller sizes for breeches. Made in twenty-two patterns and hand-
stamped, they are of course now extremely valuable cultural artifacts.
 One common practice that survived until recent times on campaign
buttons and badges was to include the image of George Washington with
that of the candidate in question.
 Some of the most famous campaign buttons are those made for Abraham
Lincoln. Memorial buttons commemorating Lincoln's inaugurations and
other life events, including his birth and death, were also made, and are
also considered highly collectable.

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 Tatting:
It is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable lace constructed
by a series of knots and loops. Tatting can be used to make lace edging
as well as doilies, collars, and other decorative pieces.
The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and chains formed from a series
of cow hitch, or half-hitch knots, called double stitches, over a core
thread. Gaps can be left between the stitches to form picots, which are
used for practical construction as well as decorative effect.
 Ribbon or Riband:
 A ribbon or riband is a thin band of flexible material, typically cloth but
also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily for binding and tying.
 Cloth ribbons, most commonly silk, are often used in connection with
clothing, but are also applied for innumerable useful, ornamental and
symbolic purposes.
Needle tatting in progress. A completed closed ring of 5ds segments w ith a picot loop
betw een each is shown. Anotheruncompleted loop is still on the needle.
Vintage tatting shuttles fromthe early tw entieth century

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 Rickrack:
 Rickrack is a "flat narrow braid woven in zigzag form, used as a
trimming for clothing or curtains.“
 Made of cotton or polyester, it is stitched or glued to the edges of an item.
Its zig-zag configuration repeats every third of an inch (about one
centimeter) and is sold in multiple colors and textures. Rickrack's
popularity peaked in the 1970s and is associated with the Little House on
the Prairie and the pioneer sentiment brought about by the 1976
American bicentennial.
 Different applications of Rick Rack

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 CollarStay:
 Passementerie:
Passementerie or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings
or edgings (in French, passements) of applied braid, gold or silver cord,
embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings.
Passementerie worked in white linen thread is the origin of bobbin lace,
and passement is an early French word for lace.
Modern passementerie includes the gold braid on military dress uniforms,
the elaborate trims used on some lampshades and draperies, and for
decorating couture clothing and wedding gowns.
Fringe and tassels are categorized as forms of passementerie.

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 TASSEL:
A tassel is a finishing feature in fabric decoration. It is a universal
ornament that is seen in varying versions in many cultures around the
globe.
The word "tassel" comes from the Latin "tassau", which refers to a clasp
(as for the neck of a garment).
A tassel is made by binding plaited or otherwise gathered threads from
which at one end protrudes a cord on which the tassel is hung, and which
may have loose, dangling threads at the other end. Tassels are normally
decorative elements, and as such one often finds them attached, usually
along the bottomhem, to garments, curtains, breasts (nipples) of
Burlesque dancers, or other hangings.
A tassel is primarily an ornament, and was at first the casual termination
of a cord to prevent unraveling with a knot.
 FRINGE:
Fringe is an ornamental textile trim applied to an edge of an item, such as
drapery, a flag, epaulettes, or decorative tassel.
Fringe originates in the ends of the warp, projecting beyond the woven
fabric. More commonly it is made separately and sewn on, consisting
sometimes of projecting ends, twisted or plaited together, and sometimes
of loose threads of wool, silk, or linen, or narrow strips of leather.

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 PIPING:
In sewing, piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip
of folded fabric inserted into a seam to define the edges or style lines of a
garment or other textile object.
Usually the fabric strip is cut on the bias, and often it is folded over a
cord. It may be made from either self-fabric (the same fabric as the object
to be ornamented) or contrasting fabric, or of leather.
Today, piping is common on upholstery and decorative pillows, but it is
also used on clothing. Piped pocketopenings, garment edges, and seams
are characteristic of Western wear.

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 RUFFLES:
In sewing and dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric,
lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated on one edge and applied to a
garment, bedding, or other textile as a form of trimming..A ruffle without
gathers or pleats may also be made by cutting a curved strip of fabric and
applying the inner or shorter edge to the garment.
A deep (wide) ruffle is usually called a flounce.
Ruffles appeared at the draw-string necklines of full chemises in the 15th
century, evolved into the separately-constructed ruff of the 16th century,
and remained a fashionable form of trim, off-and-on into modern times
 Gimp:
Gimp is a narrow ornamental trim used in sewing or embroidery. It is
made of silk, wool, or cottonand is often stiffened with metallic wire or
coarsecord running through it. Gimp is used as trimming for dresses,
curtains, furniture, etc.

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 Bias Tape:
Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias (UK
cross-grain). The strip's fibers, being at 45 degrees to the length of the
strip, makes it stretchier as well as more fluid and more drapeable
compared to a strip that is cut on the grain.
Many strips can be pieced together into a long "tape." The tape's width
varies from about 1/2" to about 3" depending on applications. Bias tape is
used in making piping, binding seams, finishing raw edges, etc. It is often
used on the edges of quilts, placemats, and bibs, around armhole and
neckline edges instead of a facing, and as a simple strap or tie for casual
bags or clothing.
Commercially available bias tape is available as a simple bias tape,
single-fold bias tape, and double-fold bias tape.
 Bias tape / Bias binding:
Usage in garments –
Like neckline & armhole finishes

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 BRAID:
A braid (also called plait) is a complex structure or pattern formed by
intertwining three or more strands of flexible material suchas textile
fibres, wire, or human hair. Compared to the process ofweaving a wide
sheet of cloth from two separate, perpendicular groups of strands (warp
and weft), a braid is usually long and narrow, with each componentstrand
functionally equivalent in zigzagging forward through the overlapping
mass of the others.
The simplest possible braid is a flat, solid, three-strand structure in some
countries/cases called a plait. More complex braids can be constructed
from an arbitrary (but usually odd)number of strands to create a wider
range of structures: wider ribbon-like bands, hollow or solid cylindrical
cords, orbroad mats which resemble a rudimentary perpendicular weave.
Braids are commonly used to make rope, decorative objects, and
hairstyles (also see pigtails, French braid). Complex braids have been
used to create hanging fibre artworks.

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 CORD:
In sewing, cord is a trimming made by twisting or plying two or more
strands of yarn together. Cord is used
in a number of textile arts including
dressmaking, upholstery, macramé,
and couching.
Soft cottoncord forms the filling for
piping.
 BUCKLES:
The buckle is a device used for
fastening two loose ends, with one end
attached to it and the other held by a
catch in a secure but adjustable
manner.
Usually overlooked and taken for
granted, the invention of the buckle has
been indispensable in securing two
ends before the invention of the zipper.
The basic buckle frame comes in a
variety of shapes and sizes dependent
on the intended use and fashion of the
era.
Buckles are still in very much use today as they have been in the past
with more than just securing one’s belt, but being one of the most
dependable devices in securing a range of items.
 Types of Buckles:
 Clasp(Clearing up some disambiguation):
Although any device that serves to secure two loose ends is casually
called a buckle, if it consists of two separate pieces with one for a hook

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and the other for a loop, it should be
called a clasp. Clasps became
increasingly popular at the turn of
the 19th century with one clear
disadvantage: since each belt end
was fixed to each clasp piece, the
size of the belt was typically not
adjustable unless an elastic panel
was inserted
 Buckle trim or slide:
A buckle without a chape or prongs is called a buckle trim or slide. It may
have been designed this particular way
or it may have lost its prongs through
continuous use. This type was
frequently used in home dress-making
(belt end being secured with the simple
hook-and-eye) and was purely used for
decoration for items such as shoe fronts
to conceal unattractive elastic fitting.
 Conventional (a.k.a. The Beltbuckle):
The conventional buckle with a frame,
bar and prong gives the most reliable
and easy-to-use closure for a belt. It is
not meant, by design, to offer much
spacefor decoration, but for its time
tested reliability.
 Side release buckle:
A conventional buckle that is formed by a male buckle member (the hook
end) and a female buckle member (the catch end). The male buckle
member consists of a center guide rod forwardly extending from the front
side with two spring arms equally
spaced from the center rod. The two
spring arms each have a retaining block
that terminates at the front end. The
female buckle member has a front open
side and two side holes which hold and
secure the two spring arms of the male

32. 32
buckle member.This sort of buckle may be found on backpacks, belts,
rifle slings, boots, and a host of other common but overlooked items.
 Materialused:
 Metal:
The first known buckles to be used were made out of bronze for their
strength and durability for military usage.
For the last few hundred years, buckles have been made from brass (an
alloy of copperand zinc). Silver was also used in buckle manufacturing
for its malleability and for being strong and durable with an attractive
shine.
White metal, any bright metallic compound, was also used in all styles of
buckles; however, if iron was present, rust will form if it is allowed to be
exposed and remain in damp conditions.
 Pearl:
Pearl buckles have been made from pearly shells and usually for ladies’
dresses. Since a reasonable size flat surface was needed to make a buckle,
oyster was commonly used to make these types of buckles. The quality
and color of coursevary, ranging from layers of yellow and white to
brown or grey.
 Wood:
When preferred materials were scarce during the Great Depression of the
1930s and the two World Wars, buckles became a low priority and
manufactures needed to find ways to continue to producethem cheaply.
Makers turned to wood as a cheap alternative since it was easily worked
by hand or simple machinery by impressing the designs onto the wood.
But there were problems using wood. Any attempt to brighten the wood’s
dull appearance with painted designs or plasterwork embellishments
immediately came off if the buckle were to be washed.

33. 33
 Leather:
Buckles were not entirely made out of leather because a frame and bar of
leather would not be substantial enough to carry a prong or the full
weight of the belt and anything the belt and buckle intend to support.
However, leather (or dyed suede, more common to match a lady’s
garment color) was used more as a “cover-up” for cheap materials to
create a productworthy of buying.
 Glass:
Buckles were not made out of glass; rather the glass was used as a
decorative feature that covered the entire frame of a metal buckle. One
method of creating glass buckles was gluing individual discs of glass to
the metal frame. Another more intricate method was to set a wire into the
back of a glass disc, and then threading the wire through a hole in the
fretted frame of the buckle. The glass was further secured by either
bending it over the back of the frame or splayed out like a rivet.
 Compositions:
Compositions refers to plastic compounds used for buckles. Celluloid, a
type of plastic invented in 1869, was used sparingly and only for
decoration until after World War I where it began to be produced on a
wider commercial scale. After World War II, the chemical industry saw a
great expansion where Celluloid and other plastics such as Casein and
Bakelite formed the basis of the buckle-making industry.

34. 34
 COSTING TABLE OF STITCHIN ACCESSORIES:
ACESSORY NAME MANUFACTURER(or)
SUPPLIERS
WHOLE SALE
PRICE
RETAIL PRICE
Sewing Thread-Small Coats Ameto RS-4.53/Spool RS-6/Spool
Sewing Thread-Big Coats Ameto RS-85/Spool RS-90/Spool
Interlining
Woven Fusible
Talco
RS-85/Meter RS-95/Meter
Woven Non-Fusible RS-80 Meter RS-90/Meter
Non-Woven Fusible Rs-18/Meter Rs-20/Meter
Non-Woven Non Fusible Rs-12/Meter Rs-15/Meter
Lining
Outer Lining-Taffeta Mohan Textile Mills RS-30/Meter RS-35/Meter
Elastic Band
0.5’’
Sarala Narrow Tapes
RS-4/Meter RS-8/Meter
0.25’’ RS-3/Meter RS-5/Meter
1’’ RS-6/Meter RS-10/Meter
1.5’’ RS-8/Meter RS-12/Meter
2’’ RS-12/Meter RS-15/Meter
Zipper
Invisible-8’’
YKK
8rs/Zipper 10 Rs/Zipper
Mettalic-8’’ 15rs/Zipper 20rs/Zipper
Plastic Molded-28’’ 50rs/Zipper 70rs/Zipper
Open Ended-8’’ 60rs/Zipper 75rs/Zipper
Closed Zipper-8’’ 25rs/Zipper 30rs/Zipper
Alright Zippers-8’’ 45rs/Zipper 60rs/Zipper
Rib
Collar Polo T-Shirt Sree Knits,Mumbai 30rs/Piece 40rs/Piece
Sweatr Cuffs 15rs/Piece 20rs/Piece

35. 35
Collar & Hoody Sree Knits,Mumbai 60rs/Piece 65rs/Piece
Collar& Cuffs 15rs/Piece 20rs/Piece
Attachments
Shoulder Pads R.M, Enterprises,Noida 40rs/Pair 50rs/Pair
Chest Pads 25rs/Pair 30rs/Pair
Cuffs For Ladies Wear 40rs/Pair 60rs/Pair
Labels
Main Label Saai Graphics 2rs/Piece 3rs/Piece
Size Label 0.5 Paisa/Piece Re1/Piece
Care Label 2rs/Piece 3rs/Piece
Integrated Label 2rs/Piece 4rs/Piece
Hooks
Bar Hooks A.T IMPEXPvt
Ltd,Jamnagar
60rs/Piece 144pieces/65 Rs
Eye Hooks 100 Hooks/35 Rs 144/Piece/38 Rs
Butoon-Common
Two Hole Button Neha Exports.Moradabad 145 Buttons/45
Rupees
145 Buttons/65rupees
Three Hole Button 145 Buttons/60
Rupees
145 Buttons/75 Rupees
Four Hole Button 145 Buttons/65
Rupees
145 Buttons/82rupees
Shank Button Sheel Sagar Garment
Accessories. New Delhi
RS1.50/Button RS2.50/Button
Shell Button RS8/Button RS 10/Button
Shell Button-3mm -4mm
Dia
Worldwide Exports 4buttons/2rs 4buttons/4rs
Wooden Button 4buttons/5rs 4buttons/10rs
Fabric Button
Coverd Samay Sales
Corporation,India
10piecs/30rs 10pieces/45rs
Mandrain 10piecs/40rs 10piecs/60rs
Worked Cloth Button Samay Sales
Corporation,India
10piecs/60rs 10piecs/75rs
Beaded Button 10piecs/30rs 10piecs/40rs

36. 36
Ribbon/Ribbon Band Neelkammal
Industries,New Delhi
15rs/Meter 20rs/Meter
Rick Lace 150rs/Meter 180rs/Meter
Velcro Aparna Bio Tecch,New
Delhi
50rs/Meter 60rs/Meter
Collar Bound International Trading
Company,Mumbai
100 Pieces/150 Rs 100 Pieces/180 Rs
Tassel Ever Exports,India 50 Pieces/80rs 50 Pieces/100rs
Fringe 50 Pices/75rs 50 Pieces/100rs
Piping 25rs/Meter 30rs/Meter
Bias Tape/Bias Binding Supertex,India 15rs/Meter 18rs/Meter
Braid Creative India,New Delhi 80rs/Meter 100rs/Meter
Cord 75rs/Meter 90rs/Meter
Buckles
Clasp Buckle-1.5’’
India Craft Inc.New Delhi
100pieces/450rs 100pieces/600rs
Conventional Buckle 100pieces/350rs 100pieces/480rs
Metal Buckle-2’’ 100pieces/700rs 100pieces/1000rs
Leather Buckle=2’’
S.E Marketing Pvt
Ltd,India
100pieces/1000rs 100pieces/1200rs
Glass 100pieces/800rs 100pieces/1350rs
Side Release Buckle 100pieces/350rs 100pieces/500rs
Tapes
Twill Tape-1’’ Supertex,India 100meter/600rs 100meters/750rs
Herring Bone Tape-0.5’’ 100 Metrs/450rs 100 Meters/600rs
 *prices will variey from customer to customer and product to product.we have taken
this costing for basic stitching accessories.

37. 37
 Some important Difference:
1. Yarn & Thread: Yarns are single plied where as Threads are multi plied
for strength. So Yarns are weaker than threads. Yarns are made by fiber
& Threads are made by yarn. Yarns are used for knitting/weaving &
threads are used for swing at garments.
2. Zipper & chain: Zipper is the part of chain where chain is the
continuous integration of zipper.
 Some important Terms Relatedto Garments Accessories/Trims
1. DTM (Dye to Match): It indicates that color should be match with body
fabric of garments. This term may used for Swing thread, Button, Elastic,
Zipper tape etc as per as buyer requirement.
2. Lab-dip: For a particular color buyer may provide sample or Panton
number (it is the codenumber for each individual color recorded at
Panton Book). Forapproving the color by buyer it is necessary to develop
the color at lab & this develop color is called Lab-dip.
3. Yarn-dip: Particularly for yarn dyed fabric (like Jeans) or the garments
which contain stripe/cheek, it is necessary to develop the yarn color at lab
& send to the buyer for approval. This develop yarn color is called Yarn-
dip.
S.No. Lining Interlining
1.
Lining are visible Interlinings are invisible.
2.
Generally smooth &
lustrous fabrics made of
silk or manufactured
fiber or cotton is used in
lining.
The fabric made of cotton, polyester, nylon,
wool & viscose are used in interlining.
3. Applied in jacket & coat.
Used in cuff, collar & front part of jacket &
coat etc.
4. Joined by swing. Joined by swing or fusing.

38. 38
4. Strike-off: If the garments contain print design then primarily printed
design is develop at lab & send to the buyer for approval. This develop
print is called strike-off.
5. Art-work: If the garments contain embroidery then trial embroidery is
done for buyer approval & this trial work is called Art-work.
6. Hand-loom: Particularly for stripe/cheek fabric repeat size is develop at
lab with the help of small m/c (it is fully manual even the setting of warp
& weft yarn as well as operation) thus producing a sample for buyer
approval is called Hand-loom.