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What is Green Fashion?
Green fashion refers to stylized clothing that uses
environmentally sensitive and responsible production
techniques.
It is a part of the growing design philosophy and trend of
sustainability, the goal of which is to create a system which
can be supported indefinitely in terms of environmentalism
and social responsibility.
• Linen is a cellulosic fiber derived
from the stem of the flax plant.
• Much stronger and more lustrous
than cotton.
• One of the oldest and most
expensive textiles in the world.
The story of
Linen
Characteristics :
Linen is
• comfortable to wear
• Has good strength ; twice as
strong as cotton
• hand-washable or dry-cleanable
• well absorbent of dyes and
prints
• Varies from light weight to
heavy weight
• Has no static or pilling problems
• In hot weather, it lowers the
body temperature up to 3-4% . Image 1:Apparel
made of linen fabric
www.amalthee-creations.com
Physical Properties
• Tenacity: Linen is a strong fiber.
It has a tenacity of 5.5 to 6.5
gm/den.
• Elongation at break: Linen does
not stress easily. It has an
elongation at break of 2.7 to
3.5 %.
• Color: The color of linen fiber is
yellowish to grey.
• Length: 18 to 30 inch in length.
• Lusture: It is brighter
than cotton fiber and it is
slightly silky.
• Resiliency: Very poor
• Moisture Regain (MR
%): Standard moisture
regain is 10 to 12%.
• Effect of Heat: Linen has an
excellent resistance to
degradation by heat.
• Effect of Sun Light: Linen
fiber is not affected by the
sun light as others fiber. It
has enough ability to protect
sun light.
• Elastic Recovery: Linen fiber
has not enough elastic
recovery properties like
Chemical Properties
• Effect of Acids: Linen fiber is
damaged by strong acids but
mild acids does not affect if
it is washed instantly after
application of acids.
• Effects of Alkalis: Linen has
an excellent resistance to
alkalis. It does not gets
affected by the strong
alkalis.
• Effects of Bleaching
Agents: Cool chlorine and
hypo-chlorine bleaching
agent does not affect the
linen.
• Effects of Insects: Linen fiber
does not attacked by moth-
grubs or beetles.
• Dyes: It is not suitable to
dye. But it can be dye by
direct and vat dyes.
Image 2:
Cross section of linen
fibre
DISADVANTAGES
• Wrinkles very easily
• Fair abrasion
• low durability
• Poor drape and elasticity
• Expensive
• Linen clothing may lose its
charm if washed with hard
water.
Total Textile Process At A Glance
Flax Sized Yarn Wet Treatments Goods Preparation Consumer
Yarn Weaving Dyeing and Printing Retail Store
Types of linen
Image source : linenbeauty.com
Plain woven Loosely woven Sheeting linen
Uses
Linen
Men ‘s wear Commercial
furnishings
women’s
wear
Home
furnishings
Image 6
Image 7 Image 9
Image 8
shopping.rediff.com
www.revolveclothing.com
www.crateandba
rrel.com
www.bedlinen123.com
Linen as green fashion
• Flax grows naturally and requires less water and
fewer pesticides than cotton, making it the more eco-
friendly fabric.
• Flax linen is recyclable and biodegrade.
• Flax is gentle on the land and is easy to incorporate
into modern crop rotation cycles, preventing soil
depletion.
• Very little energy is required to process flax.
• The industrial processes of spinning and weaving
have very little to no impact on the environment.
• Nearly all of the dyes of linen are lead-free; the
dyes that contain lead are composed of less than 5
parts per million, which is extremely low.
• Linen yarn is inherently strong, which reduces the
need for starching during spinning and weaving.
• Linen fabrics can be recycled into paper and
insulation materials for the car industry.
Evolution of Linen
Image 10 : Ancient Egyptians washing
flax for linen(Reign of King Tut 1332
BC – 1323 BC)
www.decktowel.com
Image 11 : White linen shirt with a
low-neckband embroidered in
crimson silk (1560-1580)
Image 12 :
•A full ruff of very fine linen
(1620-1630)
•Linen coif embroidered with
silk(1610-20)
Image 13 :
•Boy's coat and waistcoat, 1762-1764
(Hand-made of hand woven wool, silk
and linen fabrics, plain weave, hand
embroidered with silk thread).
•18th century linen and silk baby slippers
edged with a ruffle of hand tatted lace,
lined with white silk with pink silk bows.
http://www.pinterest.com/lolakrmpotic/vintage-fashion/
Image 14 : Ottoman period
Turkish embroidered linen
silver sash towel dates from
the late 1800s.
http://www.1860-1960.com/xa4659p0.html
Image 15 : American
Embroidered Linen Shirt
and Natural Linen Skirt
(1900)
https://sites.google.com/site/100cottontablecloth/li
nen-suit-separates-linen-suit
Image 16 : Van Heusen Men’s
Fashion Week 2010 collection
by Samant Chauhan
Image 17 : Nadine Mneimneh fall winter
collection 2012-2013
http://www.flip-zone.net/fashion/ready-to-
wear/independant-designers/nadine-mneimneh-
3084fashionethnographer.wordpress.com
• Image 18 : Missoni Menswear
collection 2014 At Milan
http://www.teampeterstigter.com/milan/missoni-
catwalk-fashion-show-milan-menswear-ss2014/
Image 19 : Nishat Eid Dresses
Collection 2014
http://www.chosefashion.com/nishat-summer-
wear-eid-collection-2014/
Cultivation conditions
• The major flax-producing countries are Canada,
USA and China, though there is also significant
production in India and throughout Europe.
• The soils most suitable for flax, besides
the alluvial kind, are deep loams, and containing
a large proportion of organic matter.
• Heavy clays are unsuitable, as are soils of
a gravelly or dry sandy nature. Farming flax
requires few fertilizers or pesticides.
Why is linen generally a more
expensive fabric?
• The plant (Flax) needs more nurturing, and
producing the relatively long fibers to make into
yarn and weave is a more difficult process than
cotton.
• The flax takes many more operatives and a much
longer time to obtain the same output as that of
cotton.
• Bleaching and dyeing processes of the fabric are
costly operations.
Linen in India
• In India, it is grown in regions of Bihar ,
Uttar Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh , Rajasthan.
• The cost of linen fabric ranges from Rs 600
to Rs 2500 per meter.
• Despite it being more expensive, the
demand for linen is increasing because it is
a natural fibre and it gives a better feel
when worn compared to cotton.
• In India , it is more in demand, especially
among people from the upper middle
class.
Image 20:
Linen shirt by
Allensolly
www.justdial.com
Raymond's Collection
• In this collection Linen is
blended with Wool to get
superior quality and amazing
comfort.
• The fabrics are in hues of
white and natural linen
shades.
Image 21
www.fibre2fashion.com
Linen Club
• Linen Club, a unit
of Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd,
is a leading player in
linen segment of the
global textile business.
• It produces apparels
using 100% pure
French and Belgian
fibres.
Image 22
http://www.linenclub.com/
Image 23
Image 24
Future Scope
• Clothes made from organic fabrics are easy to
maintain and clean.
• Despite of the low market share in clothing
industry of India, on an average organic clothes
demand is growing at the rate of 30% per year,
which is quite encouraging.
• Previously, people lacked awareness and the
linen fabric was not promoted so much as well.
• Designers are working towards making these
clothes more appealing, fashionable and
economical.
• Down the line, after some years people would be
spotted wearing trendy and stylish outfits made
up of linen.
References
• http://www.all-recycling-facts.com/eco-friendly-clothing.html
• http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/linen-fiber-characteristics-of-
linen.html#ixzz3BD0WXRrT
• http://www.worldlinen.com/fabrics-eco.htm
• http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/pdffiles/organic-clothing-the-
latest-trend-in-
practice.pdf?pdfptoken=83211bad781c6f676b636477f40123211f69ff17
• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flax
• http://www.dharmatrading.com/home/linen.html
• http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-linen.htm
• http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/linen-fiber-characteristics-of-
linen.html#ixzz3BCzd3wsr
• http://www.textbooksonline.tn.nic.in/books/11/stdxi-voc-textiles-em.pdf
Books-
•Eco Fashion-Sass Brown
•Fabric Science-JJ Pizzuto
•Patterns of Fashion 4-Janet Arnold

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Story of Linen - Sunidhi(DFT-III)

  • 1.
  • 2. What is Green Fashion? Green fashion refers to stylized clothing that uses environmentally sensitive and responsible production techniques. It is a part of the growing design philosophy and trend of sustainability, the goal of which is to create a system which can be supported indefinitely in terms of environmentalism and social responsibility.
  • 3. • Linen is a cellulosic fiber derived from the stem of the flax plant. • Much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. • One of the oldest and most expensive textiles in the world. The story of Linen
  • 4. Characteristics : Linen is • comfortable to wear • Has good strength ; twice as strong as cotton • hand-washable or dry-cleanable • well absorbent of dyes and prints • Varies from light weight to heavy weight • Has no static or pilling problems • In hot weather, it lowers the body temperature up to 3-4% . Image 1:Apparel made of linen fabric www.amalthee-creations.com
  • 5. Physical Properties • Tenacity: Linen is a strong fiber. It has a tenacity of 5.5 to 6.5 gm/den. • Elongation at break: Linen does not stress easily. It has an elongation at break of 2.7 to 3.5 %. • Color: The color of linen fiber is yellowish to grey. • Length: 18 to 30 inch in length. • Lusture: It is brighter than cotton fiber and it is slightly silky. • Resiliency: Very poor • Moisture Regain (MR %): Standard moisture regain is 10 to 12%. • Effect of Heat: Linen has an excellent resistance to degradation by heat. • Effect of Sun Light: Linen fiber is not affected by the sun light as others fiber. It has enough ability to protect sun light. • Elastic Recovery: Linen fiber has not enough elastic recovery properties like
  • 6. Chemical Properties • Effect of Acids: Linen fiber is damaged by strong acids but mild acids does not affect if it is washed instantly after application of acids. • Effects of Alkalis: Linen has an excellent resistance to alkalis. It does not gets affected by the strong alkalis. • Effects of Bleaching Agents: Cool chlorine and hypo-chlorine bleaching agent does not affect the linen. • Effects of Insects: Linen fiber does not attacked by moth- grubs or beetles. • Dyes: It is not suitable to dye. But it can be dye by direct and vat dyes. Image 2: Cross section of linen fibre
  • 7. DISADVANTAGES • Wrinkles very easily • Fair abrasion • low durability • Poor drape and elasticity • Expensive • Linen clothing may lose its charm if washed with hard water.
  • 8. Total Textile Process At A Glance Flax Sized Yarn Wet Treatments Goods Preparation Consumer Yarn Weaving Dyeing and Printing Retail Store
  • 9. Types of linen Image source : linenbeauty.com Plain woven Loosely woven Sheeting linen
  • 10. Uses Linen Men ‘s wear Commercial furnishings women’s wear Home furnishings Image 6 Image 7 Image 9 Image 8 shopping.rediff.com www.revolveclothing.com www.crateandba rrel.com www.bedlinen123.com
  • 11. Linen as green fashion • Flax grows naturally and requires less water and fewer pesticides than cotton, making it the more eco- friendly fabric. • Flax linen is recyclable and biodegrade. • Flax is gentle on the land and is easy to incorporate into modern crop rotation cycles, preventing soil depletion. • Very little energy is required to process flax.
  • 12. • The industrial processes of spinning and weaving have very little to no impact on the environment. • Nearly all of the dyes of linen are lead-free; the dyes that contain lead are composed of less than 5 parts per million, which is extremely low. • Linen yarn is inherently strong, which reduces the need for starching during spinning and weaving. • Linen fabrics can be recycled into paper and insulation materials for the car industry.
  • 13. Evolution of Linen Image 10 : Ancient Egyptians washing flax for linen(Reign of King Tut 1332 BC – 1323 BC) www.decktowel.com Image 11 : White linen shirt with a low-neckband embroidered in crimson silk (1560-1580)
  • 14. Image 12 : •A full ruff of very fine linen (1620-1630) •Linen coif embroidered with silk(1610-20) Image 13 : •Boy's coat and waistcoat, 1762-1764 (Hand-made of hand woven wool, silk and linen fabrics, plain weave, hand embroidered with silk thread). •18th century linen and silk baby slippers edged with a ruffle of hand tatted lace, lined with white silk with pink silk bows. http://www.pinterest.com/lolakrmpotic/vintage-fashion/
  • 15. Image 14 : Ottoman period Turkish embroidered linen silver sash towel dates from the late 1800s. http://www.1860-1960.com/xa4659p0.html Image 15 : American Embroidered Linen Shirt and Natural Linen Skirt (1900) https://sites.google.com/site/100cottontablecloth/li nen-suit-separates-linen-suit
  • 16. Image 16 : Van Heusen Men’s Fashion Week 2010 collection by Samant Chauhan Image 17 : Nadine Mneimneh fall winter collection 2012-2013 http://www.flip-zone.net/fashion/ready-to- wear/independant-designers/nadine-mneimneh- 3084fashionethnographer.wordpress.com
  • 17. • Image 18 : Missoni Menswear collection 2014 At Milan http://www.teampeterstigter.com/milan/missoni- catwalk-fashion-show-milan-menswear-ss2014/ Image 19 : Nishat Eid Dresses Collection 2014 http://www.chosefashion.com/nishat-summer- wear-eid-collection-2014/
  • 18. Cultivation conditions • The major flax-producing countries are Canada, USA and China, though there is also significant production in India and throughout Europe. • The soils most suitable for flax, besides the alluvial kind, are deep loams, and containing a large proportion of organic matter. • Heavy clays are unsuitable, as are soils of a gravelly or dry sandy nature. Farming flax requires few fertilizers or pesticides.
  • 19. Why is linen generally a more expensive fabric? • The plant (Flax) needs more nurturing, and producing the relatively long fibers to make into yarn and weave is a more difficult process than cotton. • The flax takes many more operatives and a much longer time to obtain the same output as that of cotton. • Bleaching and dyeing processes of the fabric are costly operations.
  • 20. Linen in India • In India, it is grown in regions of Bihar , Uttar Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh , Rajasthan. • The cost of linen fabric ranges from Rs 600 to Rs 2500 per meter. • Despite it being more expensive, the demand for linen is increasing because it is a natural fibre and it gives a better feel when worn compared to cotton. • In India , it is more in demand, especially among people from the upper middle class. Image 20: Linen shirt by Allensolly www.justdial.com
  • 21. Raymond's Collection • In this collection Linen is blended with Wool to get superior quality and amazing comfort. • The fabrics are in hues of white and natural linen shades. Image 21 www.fibre2fashion.com
  • 22. Linen Club • Linen Club, a unit of Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd, is a leading player in linen segment of the global textile business. • It produces apparels using 100% pure French and Belgian fibres. Image 22
  • 24. Future Scope • Clothes made from organic fabrics are easy to maintain and clean. • Despite of the low market share in clothing industry of India, on an average organic clothes demand is growing at the rate of 30% per year, which is quite encouraging.
  • 25. • Previously, people lacked awareness and the linen fabric was not promoted so much as well. • Designers are working towards making these clothes more appealing, fashionable and economical. • Down the line, after some years people would be spotted wearing trendy and stylish outfits made up of linen.
  • 26. References • http://www.all-recycling-facts.com/eco-friendly-clothing.html • http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/linen-fiber-characteristics-of- linen.html#ixzz3BD0WXRrT • http://www.worldlinen.com/fabrics-eco.htm • http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/pdffiles/organic-clothing-the- latest-trend-in- practice.pdf?pdfptoken=83211bad781c6f676b636477f40123211f69ff17 • http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flax • http://www.dharmatrading.com/home/linen.html • http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-linen.htm • http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/linen-fiber-characteristics-of- linen.html#ixzz3BCzd3wsr • http://www.textbooksonline.tn.nic.in/books/11/stdxi-voc-textiles-em.pdf Books- •Eco Fashion-Sass Brown •Fabric Science-JJ Pizzuto •Patterns of Fashion 4-Janet Arnold