Starting sampling.....

“Study on Sampling of a Garments Industry”
1.Introduction
Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in
attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once satisfied
with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial and most important
stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the
specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined as "The
concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in systematic
stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a development." Though
sampling is a difficult and time bound process, it will help the exporter to get the order from the
buyer. Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer wants to know whether the factory is
capable of producing the styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples decide the
ability of exporters to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer accesses the capability of
exporter only with the help of Samples. If the samples are of good quality naturally the buyers
will be willing to place the order to factory. Sampling also work as a bridge between the
productions and marketing department, hence it has the influence of both marketing as well as
production department. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and should be
manufactured with optimum quality.

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2. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1. Garments Sampling
Garment sampling is very much important process. It is a model of what the bulk production is
going to be done. The sampling is quite difficult but it will make the buyers to get attractiveness
towards the industry. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with
the quality of the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel
manufacturing because it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product being
manufactured. This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this
puts the following at risk:
•

Placement of the order

•

Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced.

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the
person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this
sampling department will work under the guidance Also as the samples are to be made according
to the buyers’ price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise.

2.2. Purpose of Sampling
a. To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.
b. To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
c. To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost
quotations.

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2.3 The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following
details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details of both, what the buyer has
demanded and what the supplier fabric/trim etc they have used.
•

Ref no.

•

Color

•

Fabric

•

Composition

•

Description

•

Quantity

•

Style no/ Size

•

Store

2.4 Sampling Process
The process of sample department varies continuously, and the development
process will covers a wide range of unique products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns,
fabric structures ,finishes and surface effects new technology and all types of made up products
such as woven , knit wear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and
medical products.
There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers the development of
the initial concept or design idea and getting the approval by the customer.
The second phase covers the process after getting acceptance of the first prototype
sample and carry out the functions of sourcing and ordering component, testing the product and
carry out trails once the finalized sample specifications has been drawn up.

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The third and final phase includes a range of activities that are carried out before
large scale or bulk production capacity outside the producer/developers if this is needed.

2.5 Sampling Types
We have to send many samples to buyers. They are
•

Proto samples or fit samples

•

Photo shoot samples

•

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

•

Size set samples

•

Pre-production samples

•

Online sample

•

Shipment sample

•

Counter samples or reference samples

A . Proto Samples or Fit Samples
These samples are done after getting the new order from the buyer. These samples
are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar
fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications given from the buyer.
Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of
garments on packing box, hang tag, in showrooms,etc.,.
After sending the proto samples the buyers will conduct discussion over the
samples and they will access the content of the sample and give us comment and reviews.

B .Photoshoot Sample
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In this category which deals mainly with the real fitting on garments.The
buyers will conduct photoshoot sessions with the samples we have sent. By this we can clearly
get the fitting requirements and problems in the measurements.By doing this buyers can give us
comments with the photo attachments.

C .Salesman Sample
The buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers.
If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in
each style.
The salesmen will book the orders from their customers, by showing these
samples. Buyer will place the order to us according to customer attractness towards the sample.
Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer
pays for salesman samples to the developer

D . Sizeset Samples
These sample are done after the salesman sample.In SMS we will sent samples in
one size only.Hence sizeset samples are are done to check the grading of all sizes are ok and the
measurements are quite good.

E . Counter Sample or Reference Sample
These are the sample which are made as same as the other samples.We will sent
samples to the buyer and keep one of the same sample for our reference.By getting acceptance
from the buyer we can proceed the work according to the reference sample we have with us.

F . Pre-production Samples
These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in
actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be
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like these samples.
These samples are to be sent before starting the actual production. Hence
these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for
everything or anything. Some times, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark
or comment. We have to get only ‘OK’ from the buyer.

G . Wash Sample
Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after
washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence either at size set stage or PP stage washing
sample is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.If sample is not
approved or approved with comments, factory needs to submit 2nd sample to get approval. After
feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.

H . Online Sample

Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the middle of the production. Production
pieces are sent to buyer as TOP sample. All buyers does not asked for TOP sample. Purpose is to
cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.

I . Shipment Samples

These samples are to be sent just before shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with
all labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything). And
even if we get some comments from buyers like changes in price tag or changes in the
assortments we can adopt the changes in the process but its not the risk for the supplier.

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2.6. Workflow of Sampling

2.7 Meeting with Buyers
In this stage designer of a manufacturing house shows their creations, latest designs to buyers.
On other hand if buyer already had fixed design of a style and need few changes on it related to
fit, fabrics or trims they discuss those thing with the merchandiser of the manufacturing unit.
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2.8 Development of Initial Samples for the Buyer

In this stage after receiving buyer’s concept or instructions on the new style, samples are made
with available fabrics and trims

2.9 Development of Fabric Sample, Bit Loom, Print and Embroidery Artwork

Fabric is developed as per the buyer requirement. Fabric development means sourcing of
customer specific fabric with matching properties, dyed and finished for solid colors. For the
solid color lap dip approval is very important process. Until lap dip sample is approved
merchants re-submit lap dips. In case of yarn dyed fabrics merchants develop fabric sample with
specified design, stripes or checks. These fabric samples called as Bit Loom. Other approvals
such as print and embroidery artwork approval and color approval are done. It may be done later
stage at time of pre-production.
2.10 Costing of Garment (complete cost as well as manufacturing cost)

Merchants prepare cost sheet with details cost break up such as raw material cost, manufacturing
cost, overheads and margin. Costing is very a critical stage. Because whether a company will get
order or not depends on their costing. If they garment cost is very high then manufacturer may
lose the order and on other hand if factory keep their cost low, they will not earn profit from the
order. Estimation of the garment cost should be done on data based.

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3. SAMPLE MAKING PROCEDURE OF SOME BUYERS

3.1. H & M buyer`s T-shirt Sample Making Procedure
Order
If costing is in satisfactory level than the buyer will send the order sheet to the factory and will
request to send sample of the ordered garments for approval. Here I present some copy of order
sheet.
Supplier: padma group .
Mode of Delivery: Boat
Time of Delivery: End December
Style: JACOBSON
Composition: 95% cotton 5% elastane
Wash: Enzyme
Weight: 180/200 gsm
Srinkage: 4% maximum
Label: HOPE „N LIFE
Price: 3.00 USD/PC CIF
Pieces/box: 24 pieces
Total pieces: 1008 pieces
Total box: 42 boxes We won’t accept not assorted boxes.

a.


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These samples are done after getting the new order from the buyer. These samples are needed to
check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the
actual measurements and specifications given from the buyer.

Buyer`s given measurement chart:
MEASUREMENT CHART: Style A
Size

M 48/50

L 52/54

XL 56/58

A

½ chest

55

59

63

H

½ hem

55

59

63

H2

hem height

2

2

2

FF

shoulder to shoulder

pls adjust

F

shoulder

13.5

14

14.5

L

sleeve length

19

20

21

Z

½ armhole

24

25

26

Z1

½ upper arm width

20

21

22

N

½ sleeve hem width

18

19

20

N2

sleeve hem height

2

2

2

P

neck opening

19

19.5

20

P1

neck drop, back

2.5

3

3

P2

neck drop, front

11

11.5

12

rib height at neck

1.5

1.5

1.5

back length from HSP

73

75

77

RL

Table No : 1
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SKETCH: Style A

Fig No : 1

Pattern making
The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one
of the earliest steps in the development of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over the
centuries into a skilled technical process. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully
tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater

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to the fast paced world of fashion. Now a days

ophisticated software programs are used for

pattern making.
Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of
a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes.
Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern.
"Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces needed to make a
complete garment. For many smaller manufacturers, pattern making is still done on paper
because the cost of computerized systems remains prohibitive
The patternmaker may use one of the following techniques to develop a sample pattern. We may
"manipulate" a new pattern by using geometric rules to modify or alter existing pattern pieces.
We may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dress form by converting the
shapes of the draped garment sections into paper pattern pieces. Alternatively, We may pin
pieces of muslin to a garment being copied and rub tailor's chalk over the seams and darts,
making a "muslin rub." The chalk markings are then used to create a flat paper pattern.
From this initial pattern, a sample garment is developed. The sample process allows a designer to
correct any problems inherent in translating a one-dimensional sketch into a two-dimensional
garment; it ensures that the designer's fabric yardage specifications are accurate; and it provides
an opportunity to spot potential production problems inherent in a design. Once the sample is
made, the manufacturer makes a small batch of duplicates for its sales force to test market. If
they sell well, the garment goes into larger volume production.
Although many firms still make patterns by hand, larger manufacturers make production patterns
on a computer using CAD software. Other systems have been developed that allow
patternmakers to create patterns manually by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus
attached to a computer. As the patternmaker indicates points with the stylus, the pattern pieces
are automatically entered into the CAD system where they can immediately be accessed for
grading and marking. Although pattern making is becoming increasingly computerized,
patternmakers still must learn the manual method because making patterns manually develops an

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advanced understanding of garment construction, knowledge that cannot yet be replaced by a
computer.

Cutting
Cutting is separating of the garment in to its components and in a general form it is the
production process of separating (sectioning, curving, severing) a spread into garment parts that
are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also
involve transferring marks and notches from the garment parts to assist operators in sewing,
chopping or sectioning a spread in to blocks of pieces goodsmany precede precision cutting of
individual patter shapes.This is done to allow for accurate matching of fabric design or easier
manufacturing of acutting knife.
Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a process called
"cutting." Currently, several cutting techniques exist, ranging from low- to high-tech. Although
scissors are used very rarely-only when working with very small batches or sensitive fabricscutting continues to be done by hand, particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here,
cutters guide electric cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the
fabric stack. An electric drill may be used to make pattern notches. The accuracy and efficiency
of this system is considerably less than in computerized cutting systems.
Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs decrease
and labor costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum technology to hold
stacks of fabric in place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon
the type of fabric being cut. Gerber Garment Technology manufactures one of the most
commonly used cutting systems. This technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and
fast, but does cost considerably more than other cutting techniques.

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Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics
Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:•

Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)

•

Thickness of fabric.

•

Design characteristics of finished garment.

•

Machines and tables used.

Sewing
After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined
and sewn as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer requirement.
Sewing section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing
machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of
types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations.
Sewing sequence of t-shirt manufacturing process:
Number matching front 2 back part
↓
Shoulder stitching
↓
Neck rib truck
↓
Neck rib sewing
↓
Neck rib joins with body part
↓
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Neck top seam
↓
Solder to solder back tip
↓
Size label sewing
↓
Solder to solder back top seam
↓
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
↓
Sleeve joint with the body part
↓
Side sewing and care label joint
↓
Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)
↓
Bottom hem sewing
↓
Arm bottom hem joint
↓
Inspection

Inspection

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Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper
creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects
which can affect the garment quality adversely.

Pressing/ Finishing
The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Molding may be done to change the
finished surface of the garment by applying pressure, heat, moisture, or certain other
combination. Pressing, pleating and creasing are the basic molding processes. Creasing is mostly
done before other finishing processes like that of stitching a cuff. Creasing is also done before
decorating the garment with something like a pocket, appliqués, embroidered emblems etc.
Vertical and form presses is automated machines. Perform simple pressing operations, such as
touching up wrinkles in knit shirts, around embroidery and snaps, and at difficult-to-reach places
on garments.
Send to buyer for approval.....
If any problem in sample then we make a second fit sample again in the same process but with
actual fabric.
b. 2nd fit sample
Size

M 48/50

L 52/54

XL 56/58

A

½ chest

55

59

63

H

½ hem

55

59

63

H2

hem height

2

2

2

FF

shoulder to shoulder NEW

43.5

45

46.5

F

shoulder

13.5

14

14.5

L

sleeve length

19

20

21

Z

½ armhole

24

25

26

Z1

½ upper arm width

20

21

22

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N

½ sleeve hem width NEW

17

18

19

N2

sleeve hem height

2

2

2

P

neck opening

19

19.5

20

P1

neck drop, back

2.5

3

3

P2

neck drop, front

11

11.5

12

neck stretched min NEW

30

31

31

rib height at neck

1.5

1.5

1.5


73

75

77

RL

Table No : 2
SKETCH: Style A

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Fig No: 2

Pattern making:
Making pattern again with reversed size wise.

Cutting :
Cutting again pattern wise.
Sewing: Number matching front 2 back part (back on part on upper side)
↓
Shoulder stitching (By over lock m/c)
↓
Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)
↓
Neck rib sewing by plain m/c
↓
Neck rib joins with body part
↓
Neck top seam
↓
Solder to solder back tip
↓
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Size label sewing
↓
Solder to solder back top seam
↓
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
↓
Sleeve joint with the body part
↓
Side sewing and care label joint
↓
Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)
↓
Bottom hem sewing
↓
Arm bottom hem joint
↓
Inspection

Inspection: Inspect Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and
missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges.etc
After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval.
If approved then we go for p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.
c.

P.P sample

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These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual production
fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples.

Cutting as 2nd fit pattern wise
↓
Sewing
↓

Pre-Production Inspection
This is done before production starts. It is done to crosscheck for final verification of Bulk fabric
and trims materials, styling cutting way, manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment
or pre-production sample as per the customer requirement.
Once pre-production (PP) sample is approved (also called sealer sample) and most of the trims are
sourced, merchants or production planning department conduct pre-production meeting with production
team, quality team and sourcing team. All important comments, procedures to be followed, dos and don’ts
are discussed. Scheduling of PCD (planned cut date) and shipment date is announced to all teams.

d. Photo sample
These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in
available similar fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications.
Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo
inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or
buyer’s promotional occasions.
In any case, the samples will be worn by the highly paid models. The buyers will arrange the
photo shoot session, by spending huge money to the advertising agencies. So the buyers will
need these samples strictly on time. If they don’t get samples on time, the buyers will have to pay
more compensation to the advertising agencies and models.
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Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended model’s body fit. So it is
important to strictly adhere to these measurements. Buyer may ask these samples to send either
from production or before starting production.

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Fig No : 3

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Bulk production
Production Pattern: Its wise to make a production sample that will be hanged out in front of
every labor that are recruited to make this clothing eventually.

Grading: Grading is done in order to grade various sizes of garment in separate place so that it
would be easier to inspection and maintain the export works at last.

Marker Making: Market making is the process to sketch on fabric before cutting it. Market is
to be in standard size required by the buyers.

Spreading: After making a market; we have to spread the whole fabric over the spreading table
in order to put Marker and pattern over it.

Cutting: After successfully spread the fabric and putting all the marks and sketch by the
marker; this is the time to cut the fabrics according to design.

Shorting & Bundling: Some shorting task is done in order to list the same number of parts in
a separate place.

Sewing & Assembling: Each of the parts of a clothing should be sewed or assembled in order
to make a complete apparel that are wearable.
e. Production Samples
These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyer’s confirmation for shipment.
Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for
everything or anything. Some times, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark
or comment. We have to get only ‘OK’ from the buyer. Then only we can ship the goods and we
can be sure of getting payment. So these samples are to be sent with more and more care.

Inspection: In this step of garment manufacturing process each of the complete apparel or
garment is to be checked and recheked. If any faults is found; then the whole process should be
repeated.
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Pressing or Finishing: After making an apparel it is to be pressed by the Compressed Machine
in order to bring it in bale form for export.

Packing: After making a bale of these garment clothing; Packing is done!
Then its redy for delivery.

f. Shipment Samples
These samples are to be sent after shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with all
labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything. And even if
we get some comments from buyers, we can save ourselves by saying that these samples were
sent from the left over garments after the shipment; hence there might be some mistakes. If we
expect any comments in these samples, it is better to inform the buyer during sending these
samples).

3.2. Prenatal buyer`s Ladies t- shirt Sample making procedure
Order
sheet.
Buyer:Prenatal S.P.A
P/I No.-iwl/GB0198/2014
Article:s407ts344jj00s
Department :PNT
Fabrication:100% cotton 180 GSM
Description:Ladies (3Yrs – 8 yrs) T-shirt
Supplier: Impress-newtex composite textile ltd.
Quantity:17,185 pcs
Delivery:30-1-2014
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a. Proto samples or fit samples
86/92

98/104

110/116

Sl no Measurement points

Tolerance in
cm

1
2

+/- 1.0

30.5
22.0

32
24.0

33.5
26.0

+/+/+/+/+/-

28.0
31.0

30.0
33.0

31.5
35.0

5.5
23.0

6.0
24.5

6.5
26.0

+/- 1.0

9.5

10.5

11.5

+/- 0.5
+/- 1.0
+/- 1.0
+/- 1.0
+6.0/-0.0

9.5
13.0

10.0
14.0

10.5
15.0

13.0
27.0

13.5
27.5

14.0
28.0

+/- 0.5
+/- 0.5
+/- 1.0
+/- 1.0
+/- 0.3
+/- 0.3

6.5
2.5

7.0
2.5

7.5
2.5

33.0
1.0

37.0
1.0

41.0
1.0

3
4a
4b
5a
5b
6
7
8
9
10a
10b
11
12
13
14
15
16

½ Chest width
Measurement point for waist
from HSP
½ Waist belt
½ Hem Width
½ Width above hem
Shoulder Width
Shoulder
point to point
Shoulder point
Sleeve length from Shoulder
point
½ Sleeve hem Width
Arm hole Length
½ Upper arm Width
Neck Width
Minimum Size
½
neck
Stretched
Neck drop front
Neck drop back
Length CB
Back length from HPS
Collar length at CB
Collar length
Table No : 3

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1.0
1.0
1.0
1.5
1.0

Pattern making
a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes.
Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern. .

Photo no : 1

Cutting
Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber
Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This
technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more
than other cutting techniques.
scissors are used for cutting fabric in sample section.first we set up pattern over the fabric and cut fabric
pattern wise.

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Sewing
Wing sequence of ladies t-shirt manufacturing process
Attach Interlining by heat

Photo no : 2
↓

Loop Attach by Plain Machine

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Photo no : 3
↓

Neck Piping by Over Lock

Photo no : 4
↓

Roiling by Plain machine

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Photo no : 5

↓

Maching back and front Part

Photo no : 6
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↓

Shoulder Join by Over Lock

Photo no : 7
↓

Neck Top Seam by flat Lock

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Photo no : 8
↓

Tuck by Plain Machine

Photo no : 9
↓

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Sleeve gathering by Plain Machine

Photo no : 10
↓
Sleeve Hem by flat lock

Photo no : 11
↓

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Sleeve Join by Over Lock machine

Photo no : 12
↓
Sleeve Tuck by plain machine

Photo no : 13
↓

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Side & Level Over Lock machine

Photo no : 14
↓

Sleeve Tuck Plain machine

Photo no : 15
↓
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Bottom Hem Plain machine

Photo no : 16

↓
Button Hole Hole machine

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Photo no : 17
↓

Button Attach by button attaching machine

Photo no : 18

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Inspection

Photo no : 19

Pressing/ Finishing:
The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Send to buyer for approval. If any
problem in sample then we make a second fit sample again in the same process but with actual
fabric.

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b. S.S. Sample
Size

M 48/50

L 52/54

XL 56/58

A

½ chest

55

59

63

H

½ hem

55

59

63

H2

hem height

2

2

2

FF

shoulder to shoulder NEW

43.5

45

46.5

F

shoulder

13.5

14

14.5

L

sleeve length

19

20

21

Z

½ armhole

24

25

26

Z1

½ upper arm width

20

21

22

N

½ sleeve hem width NEW

17

18

19

N2

sleeve hem height

2

2

2

P

neck opening

19

19.5

20

P1

neck drop, back

2.5

3

3

P2

neck drop, front

11

11.5

12

neck stretched min NEW

30

31

31

rib height at neck

1.5

1.5

1.5


73

75

77

RL

Pattern making:

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Cutting :
Sewing:
↓
↓
↓
↓
Machine back and front Part
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
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↓

↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval.If approved then we go
for p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.

c. P.P sample
These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual production
fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples.

Cutting as s.s. sample pattern wise
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↓
Sewing
↓

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done as per the
customer requirement.

d. Photo sample
Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended model’s body fit.

Bulk production:
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓

Shorting & Bundling
↓
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Sewing & Assembling
↓
Production samples
↓
InspectionPressing or Finishing
↓
Packing
↓
Shipment samples
↓
Shipment

3.3 Kappa buyer`s Jacket Sample making procedure
Order
sheet.
Buyer:Prenatal
Department :PNT
Style no.:0911982
Fabrication:100% pes
Weight:700 gsm

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Quantity:17,185 pcs
Delivery:30-1-2014
Size range s- XL

S

M

L

XL

A

Length from HSP

68

70

72

74

B

47

49

51

53

C

½ chest width
(2cm from armhole)
½ waist

47

43

45

47

D

½ bottom

45

47

49

51

E

Armhole(STRAIGHT)

20

21

22

23

F

Sleeve length from shoulder

62.5

63.5

64.5

65.5

G

½ muscle width

16.5

17.5

18.5

19.5

H

½ sleeve opening

10

10.5

11

11.5

I

Shoulder total

40

42

44

46

J

Neck width

20.5

21

21.5

22

K

Collar height in CB

9

9

9

9

Table No: 3

Pattern making
a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes. Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is
transformed into a sample pattern.
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Cutting
scissors are used for cutting fabric in sample section.first we set up pattern over the fabric and
cut fabric pattern wise.

Sewing

Wing sequence of jacket manufacturing process
Rib top sein by flat lock m/c
↓
Pocket & rib joint by over lock m/c
↓
Pocket join by plain m/c
↓
Shoulder join by over lock m/c
↓

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Shoulder top sean by Flat lock m/c
↓
Sleeve join by over lock m/c
↓
Arm hole top stitch by Flat lock m/c
↓
Side join by over lock m/c
↓
Fasing by over lock m/c
↓
Neck join by over lock m/c
↓
Button join by over lock m/c
↓
Fasing tuck by plain m/c
↓
Buton top sean by Flat lock m/c
↓
Neck Piping by Flat lock m/c
↓
Level top sean by plain m/c
↓
Cuff make by plain m/c
↓
Cuff join by over lock m/c
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↓
Cuff top sean by Flat lock m/c
↓
Jipper join by plain m/c
↓
Fasing join by plain m/c
↓
Shoulder tuck by plain m/c
↓
Fasing top sein by plain m/c
↓
Zipper top sein by plain m/c
↓
Collar top sein by Flat lock m/c

Inspection

Pressing/ Finishing
fabric.

b. S.S sample

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S

M

L

XL

A

Length from HSP

68

70

72

74

B

47

49

51

53

C

½ chest width
(2cm from armhole)
½ waist

47

43

45

47

D

½ bottom

46

48

50

53

E

Armhole(STRAIGHT)

21

22

23

24

F

Sleeve length from shoulder

62.5

63.5

64.5

65.5

G

½ muscle width

16.5

17.5

18.5

19.5

H

½ sleeve opening

10

10.5

11

11.5

I

Shoulder total

40

42

44

46

J

Neck width

20.5

21

21.5

22

K

Collar height in CB

9

9

9

9

Table No : 4
Pattern making:

Cutting :
Sewing:
↓
↓
↓
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↓
Machine back and front Part
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓

↓
↓
↓
↓
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↓

After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval. If approved then we go
for p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.
c.

P.p. sample
↓

↓
Sewing
↓

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done as per the
customer requirement.

d. Photo sample

Bulk production
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
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↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing & Assembling
↓
Production samples
↓
↓
Packing
↓
Shipment samples
↓
Shipment

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3.4 CNA buyer`s Trouser Sample making procedure
Order
sheet.

Buyer:Prenatal
Season:FW 2014
Article type:Articolo Basico
Sample size:5/6 A
Theme:Basic
Color:890 INDIA INK
Quantity:17,185 pcs
Delivery:30-1-2014


POM

Description

102

108

116

122

128

C

Waist taken Relaxed

23.50

24.50

25.50

26.50

27.50

D

Hip

29

30.20

31.40

32.60

33.80

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E

Bottom hem

11

11.40

11.80

12.20

12.60

H

Thing width

17.10

18.10

19.10

20.10

21.10

O

LENGTH

54.70

59.40

64.10

68.80

73.50

P

LENGTH

40.30

44.40

48.50

52.60

56.70

Q

FRONT CROTCH

17.20

18.10

19

19.90

20.80

R

BRONT CROTCH

22.70

23.70

24.70

25.70

26.70

Table No : 4

Pattern making
a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes. Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is
transformed into a sample pattern.

Cutting
scissors are used for cutting fabric in sample section.first we set up pattern over the fabric and
cut fabric pattern wise.

Sewing

Wing sequence of trouser manufacturing process
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Elastic tuck by plain M/C
↓
Front Rise by over lock m/c
↓
Back rise and Level Joint by Over lock m/c
↓

Side Seam joint by over lock m/c
↓
Elastic joint over lock m/c
↓
In seam joint by Over lock m/c
↓
Elastic tuck and main level by flat lock m/c
↓
Top seam by flat lock
↓
Bottom hem by flat lock m/c
↓
Back rise and front rise tuck plain M/C

Inspection

Pressing/ Finishing
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fabric.

b. S.S Sample:
POM

Description

102

108

116

122

128

C

Waist taken Relaxed

23.50

24.50

25.50

26.50

27.50

D

Hip

29

30.20

31.40

32.60

33.80

E

Bottom hem

11

11.40

11.80

12.20

12.60

H

Thing width

18

19.10

20.5

21

22

O

LENGTH

54.70

59.40

64.10

68.80

73.50

P

LENGTH

40.30

44.40

48.50

52.60

56.70

Q

FRONT CROTCH

17.20

18.10

19

19.90

20.80

R

BACK CROTCH

22.70

23.70

24.70

25.70

26.70

Fig No : 5

Pattern making:
Cutting :
Sewing:
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Elastic tuck by plain M/C
↓
Front Rise by over lock m/c
↓
Back rise and Level Joint by Over lock m/c
↓

Side Seam joint by over lock m/c
↓
Elastic joint over lock m/c
↓
In seam joint by Over lock m/c
↓
Elastic tuck and main level by flat lock m/c
↓
Top seam by flat lock
↓
Bottom hem by flat lock m/c
↓
Back rise and front rise tuck plain M/C

After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval. If approved then we
go for p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.
c.

P.p. sample

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↓
↓
Sewing
↓

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done as per the customer
requirement.

d.

Photo sample


Bulk production
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓

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Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing & Assembling
↓
Production samples
↓
↓
Packing
↓
Shipment samples
↓
Shipment

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4. DATA ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION
Several people and departments are invloved in sampling process.They are: merchandising
department, sampling/ product development team, trim and fabric store, pattern making
department, quality assurance team, dispatch department and etc.
Buyer assesses the sample and gives the feed back within 5 - 7 days to factory with respect to
sample. Feedback from the buyer is 3 types i.e. accepted, rejected, and accepted with comments.
The rejection of sample may be due to following reasons: There could be one or more reasons
for the sample rejection from buyer, these are: sample made out of tolerance, incorrect
construction, fabric quality may not up to mark, incorrect packaging, incorrect size submission,
frequent change in style and more.

When we work with some buyers continuously, we will have to keep on sending samples to them
very often. Whenever they have enquiries, buyer may need samples. Buyers may like to see the
garments in a new fabric. For one enquiry, they may need samples in different fabrics to choose
58 | P a g e

from. If they want to develop new style in new fabric, then also we will have to send these
samples.
We may have to spend too much on these samples. But these samples are inevitably important to
develop business. Some times, even the buyer is not so confident of some enquiries, if our
samples are good and attractive at reasonable prices, they will bring orders to us.
Also we will have to send samples to the newly contacted buyers to show our workmanship,
product range, quality standards and price level. These samples should be sent so that they would
attract the buyers.
So it is better for a company to have a separate sampling department so that they can create new
styles in new fabrics to impress the buyers.
We have to send many samples to buyers. They are
•

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

•


•

Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples

•

Wash test samples

•

Photo samples

•

Fashion show samples

•

Pre-production samples

•

Production samples

•

Shipment samples

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5. CONCLUSION
Sampling is the heart of any export order processing. The future of any style purely depends on
buyer and factory which are adding value to the samples. So it is very important to understand
the sample development process to control quality and costs in the initial stage or in the sampling
development. Merchandiser plays the central role in sampling process as, the only person
between the buyer and factory who understands the buyer specification, technical details and
time line of sampling. The process of sampling is about the eventual satisfaction of specific
needs. It is about products the company can make or out-source profitably for which there is a
market demand. Sampling is the best way to place an order. The purpose of sampling is not only
to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. The use of
technology, computer based designing, as well as innovation and creativitiy are important tools
in driving apparel sampling.
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6. REFERENCES
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/process-flow-chart-of-garments-sample.html
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/process-sequence-of-garments.html
http://www.textileschool.com/School/Apparel/Sampling.aspx
http://gulnazahmad.hubpages.com/hub/A-Step-by-Step-of-Garment-Manufacturing
Factory merchandiser hand note
Garments Technology book
Supervisor Hand Note

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Starting sampling.....

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