Apparel Merchandiser & Merchandising

Basic knowledge for Merchandising
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Merchandiser
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Negotiation with buyer & collect order
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Costing
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Sample making (according to buyer requirement)
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Get approval &Placement of order
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Getting started (In-house preparation of
accessories)
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Line balancing
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Commencing production
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Production Monitoring
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Inspection
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Buyer’s Inspection (After Finishing)
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Preparation of banking & documentation
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Shipment/delivery
Process Flow-Chart of Merchandising

Definition of merchandiser
The main role of a garments merchandiser is to collect garments export order (export
L/C), produce the garments, export the garments and earn profit, to perform those
functions successfully needs lot of knowledge, experience & tremendous effort for a
merchandiser. The term merchandising is defined as follows:
Definition of merchandising
•The term merchandising related with trade
•Trade means buying & selling
•The person who is involved with trade, he/she is a merchandiser
•And the activities of a merchandiser is known as a merchandising
Definition of merchandiser

Responsibilities of Senior Merchandiser

Qualities of a merchandiser
1.Language skill
2.Computer skill
3.Marketing skill
4.Right consumption knowledge of various goods
5.Costing knowledge of raw materials
6.Order getting ability (That is if the merchandiser is known by actual rate of raw
materials, so that he can negotiate perfectly with buyer. In this way, the possibility of
getting order is hundred percent.)
7.Sincere & responsible
8.Hard worker
Qualities of a merchandiser

Some Factors Related to Buying Side:
Customer: Those who buy the ultimate product are called customers. Customer
of a product may be the consumer of this product or not.
Consumer: Those who use the ultimate product are called consumers. Consumer
of a product may be the consumer of this product or not.
Buyer: Those who buy the product from other in large quantity are called buyers.
Whole Seller: Those who sell the product to the retailer are called whole-sellers.
Retailer: Those who sell the product directly to the customer are called retailers.
Importers: Those who buy or import the product from foreign or overseas
country in large quantity are called importers.
Some Factors Related to Buying Side:

Some Factors Related to Selling Side:
Seller: Those who sell the product to the others are called seller.
Manufacturer: Those who manufacturer the product are called manufacturers.
Exporter: Those who sell or export the product to the buyer of foreign country
are called exporters.
Trader: Those who establish liaison between buyer and manufacturer are called
traders.
Some Factors Related to Selling Side:

Multinational:
1.Li& Fung
2. Synergies
3Linmark
4. Complex tile
5. ZXY Apparel Buying Solution
6. Asmara
7. Texbo.
Local:
1. Team Sourcing
2. Centro tex.
List of Traders:

Name of Some Important Buyer of Bangladesh:
Generally buyers of USA, Europe, Canada, Australia, Japan, India are the main
buyers of Garments and Textile product of Bangladesh.
Name of some important buyers of these countries are described below-

Name of Some USA Buyers:
GAP
Adidas
Walmart
Levi’s (Brand: Dockler, Denizer, Levi’strauss)
VF Asia (Brand: Lee, Wrangler )
PVH -Phillips Von Heuson (Brand: CK)
Peri Ellis
Academy
Banana
 Old Navy
 US Polo
 Nike
 American Eagle

Name of Some European Buyers:
H & M
Hugo Boss
Zara
Mango (Turnkey)
Puma
European Eagle
C & A
M &S
Esprit
Terco
 Decathlon
Sains Burry
Carretow
NKD
Tema
Lindex

Name of Australian Buyers:
 K-mark
Name of Some Japanese Buyers:
 Uniquelo
 Huloson Bay
Name of Some Indian Buyers:
 Black Berry
 Mahendra ( Brand: Peter England )
 ITC
 Ramond

Seasons of Export in Europe:
Seasons of Export:

Specialty :
Turkey: This country is suitable for highly de corative and fancy garments.
China: Buyers select China for decorative garments and short time shipment.
India: Buyers select India for decorative garments.
Vietnuma: Buyers select Vietnum for plain printed T-Shiort.
Combodia: Buyers select Vietnum for plain printed T-Shiort.
Bangladesh: Bangladesh is a Lower Developing Country with GSP facilitiy. Buyers
import various types of garments from Bangladesh.
Major Garments Manufacturer Countries:

The Generalized System of Preferences (known as GSP for short) is a scheme whereby
a wide range of industrial and agricultural products originating in certain developing
countries are given preferential access to the markets of the European Union.
Preferential treatment is given in the form of reduced or zero rates of customs duties.
The GSP scheme is specifically designed to benefit certain developing countries and
integrate them into the world economy.
Since 1971, the EU has had rules ensuring that exporters from developing countries
pay lower duties on some or all of what they sell to the EU. This gives them vital access
to EU markets contributing to the growth of their economies. This scheme is known as
the "Generalized System of Preferences".
Today Bangladesh offers a very flexible and feasible production base for its customers
in EU, America and Australia. The EU market is quota free for apparels and goods are
eligible for the GSP facilities. As an LDC member Bangladesh also obtain special Tariff
benefit from Canada (18% import Tax free).
FOB:
FOB means Free on Board. It is the value of the product which is fixed without cost of
transportation of this product.
CIF:
FOB means Free on Board. It is the value of the product which is fixed including the
cost of transportation and insurance of this product.
GSP

1.Space Availability:
Space availability or time agreement is the availability of availability of
production floor for the production of garments.
2.Costing:
Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments.
Costing is done considering-
 Fabric price
 Accessories price &
 C&M Cost
 Way of Costing:
 Costing can be done by-
 Original Sample
 Specification
GARMENTS EXPORT PROCEDURE

Specification contains the following factors:-
 Design or Sketch of garments
 Fabric Type-
 Composition
 Color
 Construction
 GSM or Ozs. Per Square Yards.
 Any other instruction
 Accessories Detail
 Any Kind of Instruction
 Garments Size ( called “Measurement Chart” or “Size Chart” )
Specification File:
The file which contain the specification of product is called the “Specification File” or
“Technical Package” or Tech-pack” or “PDM” (Product Development Manual) or
“Order Sheet” or “Product Package”. Specification File is issued by the buyer and
collected by the manufacturer.

BOM Sheet:
The pages of specification file contain fabric and accessories detail is called BOM ( Bill
of Material ) Sheet.
3.Order Confirmation:
Order confirmation is issued by the buyer to the manufacturer which contains Tech-
pack.
4.Purchase Order:
PO or purchase order is issued by the buyer to the manufacturer.
5.Master L/C:
L/C or Letter of Credit is a confirmation which is prepared by the buyer ( bank of
buyer ) and issued to the manufacturer. It has financial value. L/C is of two types-
Master L/C &
Back to Back L/C
When a L/C is opened to import goods directly from the exporter is called master
L/C. It is issued by the buyer (bank of buyer) to the manufacturer.

Master L/C Back to Back L/C
Master L/C is prepared by the buyer to
import goods from the manufacturer.
Back to Back L/C is prepared by the
manufacturer to collect raw materials for
the production.
This L/C is issued by the buyer to the
manufacturer.
This L/C is issued by the manufacturer to
the raw material suppliers.
It is the basic L/C. It depends on master L/C
Prepared for the import of goods from the
exporter.
Prepared to collect raw material from the
supplier.
It has higher financial value than the Back
to Back L/C.
It has lower financial value than the Master
L/C ( 70-80% of Master L/C ).
8.Back to Back L/C:
Back to Back L/ C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw materials from the
suppliers. It has 70-80% financial value of Master L/C.
Difference Between Master L/C and Back to Back L/C:

9.Sampling:
Sample is the small quantity which represents the bulk. The process of collecting or
making sample is called “Sampling”.
Types of Garments Sample
Proto Sample:
Features:
•This type of sample is made by the manufacturer by available fabric and accessories.
•This sample is made before or after order confirmation.
Purpose:
Here buyer checks whether the factory can make the garments.
Fit Sample:
Features:
•This type of sample is made by the manufacturer by available fabric and accessories.
•This sample is made after order confirmation.
Purpose:
Here buyer checks the fitness or measurement of the garments.

 PP Sample:
Features:
• This type of sample is made by the manufacturer by actual fabric and
accessories.
• This sample is made after order confirmation.
• This sample must be approved by the buyer before production.
Purpose:
Bulk production is done following PP sample.
 Size Set Sample:
Features:
• This type of sample is made in all sizes.
• These samples are sent to the buyer.
• These samples are made in all sizes.
Purpose:
This sample is used for PP meeting.
 Production Sample:
Features:
• These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk production is
running.
• These are sent to the buyer.
Purpose:
Here buyer compares Production Sample with the PP Sample.

Garments Test Sample:
Features:
These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk production is
running.
These are sent to the testing house.
Purpose:
Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and sends “test report” to
the buyer.
Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are as follows.
• Dimensional Stability Tests
• Sewing Strength Tests
• Button Attaching Tests
• Spirality Tests
• Color Fastness Tests
• Abrasion Tests
• Radiation of Materials Tests
Testing Houses may be local or international. They test the garments and send the test
report to the buyer to inform the quality of product producing by the manufacturer.

 Shipment Samples:
Features:
• These samples are not so mandatory.
• These are sent to the buyer after the shipment of the products.
Purpose:
Here buyer compares the Production Sample with the Shipment Sample.
 Salesman Samples:
If buyer collect sample garments of specific design for specific season which are
displayed in the retail shop to justify the demand of these samples, then these
are called Salesman Sample.

13. Pattern and Marker Making of Bulk Production:
Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual components for a
style of garments.
Marker is a thin paper which contains all components of different sizes for a
particular style of garments.
14. Trial Cutting:
Little amount ( for 200-300 pieces of garments ) of fabrics are cut for checking the
efficiency and production cost of the garments.
15.Bulk Cutting:
Here total fabrics required for bulk production are cut.
16. Numbering –Bundling & Sorting:
After cutting of fabrics numbering, Bundling and sorting process are done. Then cut
pieces are sent to the sewing section.

17. Production Line Set-up:
Production line set-up is the arrangement of sewing machines where the input of the
first machine is cutting part of the fabrics and the output of the last machine is
complete garments. Production line may be straight or V-shaped or face to face or any
other suitable type.
18. Sewing:
Cutting pieces are attached by sewing to make the complete garments. Different types
of sewing machines are used in production line.
19. Finishing:
Finishing includes- ironing, accessories attaching, label attaching, ironing etc.
20. Pre-Final Inspection:
This type of inspection is done by factory QC. It may be at the end of the production
line or in the lab.

21. Final Inspection:
Final inspection is conducted by the –
Self Inspection: Conducted by the factory QC.
Third Party Inspection: Conducted by the testing houses.
Name of Some Testing Houses:
Functions of Testing Houses:
•Testing of Fabric
•Testing of Garments
•Testing of Trims
•Garments factory Auditing for Compliance

In-line Inspection:
During production, buyer QC will come and check the product quality and suggest
to over-come any type of problem. This type of inspection is called In-line
Inspection.
On-line Inspection:
Inspection at the end of the production line during production is called On-line
Inspection.
This inspection is conducted by the factory QC

1.Commercial Invoice:
A sheet contains-
1. Buyer Details
2. Manufacturer Details
3. Item Details
4. Unit Price
5. Total Price
2.Packing List:
It is the list of packed products according to the size, color and content in each
package.
3.Bill of Lading:
The document witch is issued by the Freight Forwarding Agent to the manufacturer
containing detail about product sent and transportation company.
e.g. AW/B- Air Way Bill.
ICD:
ICD means Inland Container Depot. The goods which are not suitable to transport in
carton because of introducing crease marks are transported hanging in ICD.
Document For Payment

Export Procedure
1. INVOICE: In Invoice following criteria is required.
1. Consignee and Applicant Addresses
2. Garment Description
3. Garment Price and Total Invoice value
4. Net and Gross Weight of Garments
5. PO (purchase order) no.
6. Freight Terms.
7. from # & Date
8. L/C. # (letter of credit)
2. PACKING LIST
There are following details in the packing list required as per buyer's instruction or
mentioned in L/C.
1. Consignee and applicant addresses
2. Product description
3. Garment Style and color
4. Net and Gross weight of Garments
5. No. Of Pieces in the Carton and Carton Dimension also other necessary information,
which gives help for the custom clearance.

Export Procedure
3. Export-FORM:
E-FORM is issued and attested by the concerned bank (Islami bank Bangladesh ltd.)
4. BILL OF ENTRY
Applicable only in case of the imported material used in the manufacturing of the garments
for the export purposes.
5. SHIPPING BILL
The forwarder prepares shipping bill. After the sub Management Information Systems ion of
the custom docs, by the forwarder, custom authorities check the docs. And examine the
shipment accordingly. They write the report on the backside of the shipping bill and allow
the shipment for the export from Bangladesh. All these docs are then returned to the
export department.
6. VISA PROCESS
After receiving the Docs from the forwarder, Export Department prepares the Visa docs,
which are required for the export of garment to the following countries; USA, CANADA,
EUROPEAN countries.
7. NEGOTIATION / COLLECTION
After the completion of the Visa process, we submit the docs in the Bank for the
negotiation/ collection. The docs are prepared according to the L/C. or the buyer
requirement.

Export Procedure
8. DOCUMENTS FOR THE BUYER
Export department also prepare documents for the buyer for the custom clearance
of the shipment at the destination.
9. PAYMENT PROCEDURE
After the negotiation/ collection procedure of the docs, bank dispatches the same to
L/C opening bank, to realize the payment. Foreign bank is bound to realize the same
within the 10 to 15 days. REBATE CLAIM
10. COMMERCIAL INVOIVCE
In the commercial invoice all the details are mentioned required under conditions of
L/C for the custom clearance and other necessary purposes.
11. PACKING LIST
It consists of color, weight, product code/other, coding numbers, no. of cartons,
carton dimension, and carton packing.
12. BILL OF LADING/ AIRWAY
This is according to the L/C terms and conditions.

Types of sample/Stages of sample:
1. Proto Type Sample: This is the first sample given to the buyer. The sample is
prepared according to requirement of buyer and this is the rough sample. The range of
sample is about 1-2 to vary according to the requirement of buyer.
Comments on Proto Type:
Buyer gives his comments on sample and also recommends the changes in sample.
2. Counter Proto Sample:
This sample is based on the comments received from the buyer. For this sample, 2-3
pieces are required.
3. Salesman Sample:
Buyer sends the samples in market by salesman to get market feedback from
customers it is done on 250-500 pieces or may exceed depending on season and
customer. Buyer has to sell these garments to check and view.
Samples
Market
Feedback
Buyer's Design
Buyer's Merchandisers
Manufacturer's Merchandiser
Comments on Salesman Sample:
Feedback on sample from customer is send to merchandiser/ manufacturer.

4. Pre-Production Sample (PPS):
Manufacturer prepares it. All changes are confirmed on it. 2-3 pieces are required in
pre-production sample.
Approval of PPS:
It is the stage where a sample may be approved or rejected.
If accepted go ahead to next step and if rejected then there will be the process of
revision of previous steps. PPC department is also involved at this stage. Once PPC is
involved, no change in styling is acceptable.
5. Size Set Sample:
2-3 sets of different size are sending to PPC (planning production and control).
Manufacturer keeps one sample himself and one sends to buyer for cutting approval.
Its purpose is that buyer will make no change in cutting details. If he makes some
changes, he himself will be responsible for any loss/ damage.

6. Fit Sample:
No change in stitching is acceptable at this stage. 2-3 garments are used in fit
sampling.
7. Photo Shoot Sample:
Now the sample is ready fort shipment. Buyer picks some pieces randomly to test its
gauge, GSM, shrinkage. If all these are according to the requirement of buyer then
shipment is said to be ok. 15-20 pieces are picked up as a sample to test.
8. Shipment Sample:
This stage is the completion of total order. And the garments are sending to
shipment.

COMMON ITEMS OF GARMENTS WE EXPORT
There are three categories of garments that we export-
1. Woven Garments
2. Knit Garments &
3. Heavy Knit Garments

Woven Garments:
1. Shirt:
Men top garments. Shirt is of two types-
 Basic/Formal/Dress/Official shirt
 Casual/Pilot shirt
2. Pants/Trouser:
Men bottom garments. Pants may be of two types-
 Formal/Dress/Chino pants
 Casual pants. e.g. Jeans pants, Cargo pants.
3. Half Pants/Shorts:
Men bottom garments above the knee. e.g. Cargo shorts.
4. 3/4 of Pants:
Men bottom garments under the knee, above the ankle.
5. Blouse:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies shirt or fotua.
6. Dress:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies kamiz

7. Capri’s:
Ladies short pants above the ankle but not ¾ of pants.
8. Skirt:
Ladies garments.
9. Jacket/Blazer/Coat:
Men top garments containing “Lapel” and Taffeta.
10. Padded Jacket:
Jacket that contains “Quilting”.
11. Trench Coat:
Long coat with waist belt.
12. Gilet:
Sleeveless thick jacket.
13. Pazamas:
Night dress- both top & bottom.
Woven Garments:
14. Coverall:
15. Overall:
16. Shortall:
‘Work wears’ which provide protection from
uncomfortable working environment.

17. Vest/Over coat/Waist coat:
Sleeveless coat with button at front.
18. Head Wear:
Different types of cap, hat etc.
Woven Garments:

Knit or Light Knit Garments:
1. T-Shirt:
Top garments that must not contain placket. It may contain half collar or not. Collar
of T-Shirt is made by circular rib machine. Generally single jersey fabric of GSM 120-
220 is used to make T-Shirt.
2. Polo Shirt:
Top garments that must have placket and collar. The collar of Polo Shirt is made by
flat bed knitting machine. Double jersey fabrics are used to make Polo Shirt.
3. Knit Trouser:
Bottom garments made of knit fabric.
4. Tank Top:
Sleeveless top garments for men containing strap.
5. Briefs:
Men underwear (short ).
6. Lingerie:
Ladies underwear ( short ).
7. Boxer Shorts:
Long size men underwear above the knee.
8. Sweat Shirt:
Long sleeve T-Shirt made of fleece fabric.
9. Socks

10. Tights/Hose/Leggings:
Ladies skin trouser.
11. Singlet:
Ladies top garments with strap.
12. Hoody:
Long sleeve top garments with hood. Generally made of fleece fabric.
13. Gloves:
Hand wear for long time use on hand when use of finger is necessary.
14. Mitten:
Hand wear for short time use when use of finger is not necessary.
15. Sports Wear:
Garments used in any type of sports.
16.Swim Shirt:
Garments used as swimming dress. These garments are skin tight, made of
hydrophobic fibre and water proof.
17. Pazamas:
Night dress- both top & bottom.
Knit or Light Knit Garments:

Heavy Knit or Sweater:
1. Pullover:
Long sleeve sweater without button at front.
2. Slipover:
Sleeveless sweater without button at front.
3. Vest/Waist Coat/Over Coat:
Sleeveless sweater with button at front.
4. Cardigan:
Long sleeve sweater with button at front.
5. Zip-up:
Long sleeve sweater with zipper at front.
6. Half-zip:
Long sleeve sweater with half-zipper at front.

Type s of Fleece:
Generally there are two types of fleece.
1. Terri Fleece:
One side of this fabric is like single jersey and other side is brushed.
2. Polar Fleece:
Both sides of this fleece are brushed.
Type s of Stripe:
Generally there are two types of Stripe.
1.Feeder Stripe:
When the repeat size of strip in the fabric is less or equal 4 cm. then it is called
Feeder Stripe.
2.Engineering Stripe:
When the repeat size of strip in the fabric is grater than 4 cm. then it is called
Feeder Stripe.
Outer Wear:
Garments that protect from bad weather are called Outer Wear.
e.g. Rain Coat, Trench Coat, Wind Breaker.

CVC- Chief Value of Cotton (cotton > polyester)
PC- Polyester Cotton Blend (Polyester > Cotton)
TC- Tetron Cotton (polyester & rayon >cotton)
GSP- Generalized System of Performance.
LDC- Least Development Country
C&F Agents- Clearing & Forwarding Agents
T&A calendar- Time & Action Calendar
CIF- Cost of Insurance & Freight
BTB- Back to Back L/C
ITS- Inter-tech Testing Service
FOB- Free o Boat (up to port)
L/C- Letter of Credits
TT- Telegraphic Transfer
PO - Purchase Order
PP- Pre-Production
IDC- Inland Commercial Depo
AWB- Air Way Bill
PO- Purchase Order
PDM- Product Document Manu
BOM- Bill Of Materials
Do not forget-

Production overview yarn to garment

How to recognize sewing Machine to see the shape

70
MACHINES USED IN WASHING PLANT

Apparel Merchandiser & Merchandising

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