This document provides information about various printing methods and processes. It begins by describing direct printing, resist printing, and discharge printing methods. It then discusses different types of printing methods known, including screen printing, and provides steps for processes like design to screen and after production primary printing inspection. The document also includes descriptions of specific printing techniques like roller printing, block printing, dye sublimation printing, and heat transfer printing. It concludes by comparing automatic print versus hand print.

1. PRINTING

2. Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir
ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013)
Department : Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh
Prepared By :
©right

3. PRINTING
The printing is described as localized dyeng, dyes or pigment are applied locally or
discontinuously to produce the various designs. Printing is the production of all
active designs with well defined boundaries made by the artistic arrangement of a
motif is one or more colors. Printing is a process for reproducing text and image,
typically with ink on paper using a printing press. It is often carried out as a large-
scale industrial process, and is an essential part of publishing and transaction
printing. Screen printing is a printing technique that uses a woven mesh to support
an ink-blocking stencil.
The attached stencil forms open areas of mesh that transfer ink as a sharp-edged
image onto a substrate. A roller or squeegee is moved across the screen stencil,
forcing or pumping ink past the threads of the woven mesh in the open areas.
Screen printing is also a stencil method of print making in which a design is
imposed on a screen of silk or other fine mesh, with blank areas coated with an
impermeable substance, and ink is forced through the mesh onto the printing
surface. It is also known as silk screening or serigraphy.

4. printing
1. used to add color to localized areas only
2. allows for greater design flexibility and relatively inexpensive patterned fabric
3. wet prints use a thick, liquid paste
4. dry prints use a powder
5. foam prints use a colorant dispersed in foam
PRINTING

5. printing methods
digital printing—
• ink-jet printing
heat-transfer printing
• design transferred to fabric from specially printed paper by heat &
pressure
electrostatic printing
• prepared screen covered with powdered dye; passes through electric
field & pulled onto material
foil printing
• adhesive applied to fabric, foil heated on heat transfer press & bonds to
adhesive pattern
stencil printing
• separate pattern cut for each color, color is applied in thick paste or
sprayed on with air gun

6. There are three methods of pattern dyeing and printing:
 Direct printing
 Resist printing
 Discharge printing
What type of printing method you know?

7. Direct Printing:
In direct printing a design is etched into a copper roller. A dye that has been
thickened into a paste with starch, gelatin, or synthetic polymers is applied to the
etched area while the un-etched surface is kept clean. The color design is transferred
to the cloth under pressure. Direct printing may also involve forcing the paste onto
the fabric through a screen, a technique similar to stencil printing except that the
screen controls how much paste is applied to the cloth.
Resist Printing:
In resist printing a reverse-printing method, a dye repelling substance is
selectively applied to the cloth, which is then placed in a dye bath. This method is
used for example, to produce white polka dots on a color background.
Discharge Printing:
In discharge printing, the whole fabric is dyed. A pattern is then printed on
the fabric with a chemical that oxidizes or reduces the dye, creating a white pattern
on a colored background.
What type of printing method you know?

8.  Allover print.
 Screen print.
 Reactive print.
 Print with plastisol dye-stuffs.
 Pigment print
 Flock print
 Foil print
 Lurex print
 Embossed print
 Heat transfer print
 Hi-density print
 Dip-dye print.
All others of printings are---

9. Factors Affecting Cost of Printing
1. Size of printing
2. Number of color of printing
3. Any grading of size of printing from size to size
4. Any restriction/selection of use of dyes and chemicals
5. Lab test requirement
6. Wash sustainability
7. Tolerance in placement of print art-work
8. Tolerance in color shade variation
9. Place of printing
10. Type of printing

10.  Preparation of the fabric to be printed.
 Preparation of the print paste.
 Making an impression of the print paste on the fabric.
 Drying of the printed fabric.
 Steaming of the printed fabric.
 After treatments (soaping etc)
Steps of printing:-

11. Sychrop print hand print
↓
Dryer (temp 170 – 172)
↓
Quality inspection
↓
Sewing.
Printing process:-

12. Design
↓
Expose
↓
Color
↓
Develop sample
Steps of printing section :-

13. Process of after Production Primary Printing Inspection:-
Approval
↓
Strike of Approval
↓
Hand over (Measurement Chart)
↓
Pre-production meting
↓
Quality Report
↓
Total Production Summary.

14. This process involves a print paste (like a thick paint) that is applied to an
engraved roller, and the fabric is guided between it and a central cylinder. The
pressure of the roller and central cylinder forces the print paste into the fabric.
Because of the high quality it can achieve, roller printing is the most appealing
method of printing designer and fashion apparel fabrics.
Long runs of the same fabric design are produced on a roller print cylinder
machine operating at speeds between 50 and 100 yards a minute. As many as 10
different colors can be printed in one continuous operation, but each colour must
have a separate roller.
The design is cut into the surface of copper rollers; by varying the depth of the
engraving on the roller the shade depth can be altered. Sharpness of line and fine
detail can be achieved this way. A typical printing machine has a large padded
drum or cylinder, which is surrounded by a series of copper rollers, each with its
own dye trough and doctor blade that scrapes away excess dye.
Roller / Rotary Printing

15. Schematic diagram of PRINTING

16. The tubular screens rotate at the same velocity as the fabric, the print paste is distributed
inside a tubular screen, which is forced into the fabric as it is pressed between the screen
and a printing blanket (a continuous rubber belt). It picks up colour from the engraved area
of each roller in sequence. The printed cloth is dried immediately and conveyed to an oven
that sets the dye. Knitted fabric is mostly printed in this method as it does not pull or stretch
the fabric.

21.  Roller Printing
 Flat (Silk) Screen Printing
 Rotary Screen Printing
 Block Printing
 Heat Transfer Printing
 Dye Sublimation Printing
 Resist Printing

22. Exposing m/c Curing m/c Heat transfer m/c

23. Design: - printing design means colors separate to the design. Printing size ,
grading system , measurement then design pass to the expose section.
Expose :-Design pass to the screen heat transfer to the expose machine , screen
is the mesh fabric the machine can per from through high function vacuum
pumps that saves time for screen preparation. Exposing Machine that is
specially designed to enable the fine screen to be exposed. Imported sealed
rubber blanket and filtered air regulator is used to keep the machine dust clean.
 The Machine is a specially designed for enable the fine screen to be
expose
 The Machine can perform high function (imported) vacuum pumps.
 Instant vacuum leads to save time for screen preparation.
 The machine consists indigenous quick start espousal systems, the
light is very strong and stable
 Machine adopts many rows of powerful homogeneous distribution
UV light source, economic and save energy.
 The Imported sealed rubber blanket.
 Filtered Air Regulator Heat &+ Keep Dust clean

24. Screen mode (50-60 min dryer temp 70 c)
↓
Exposing mc
↓
Cold water (5 min)
↓
After them spray gun develop
↓
Dryer (30-40 min)
↓
Re-wash
↓
Dryer (20 min)
↓
Re-expose (20 min)
↓
Hard & applied.
↓
Design complete
Steps in design to screen:-

25. Automatic Print Hand Print
1. Accuracy 1. No Accuracy
2. Limited Production 2. No Limited Production
3. Production is high 3. Production is Low
4. Depends on m/c capacity 4. It is manually print
5. Capacity is 9 colors 5. Variety colors print
Difference between Automatic Print & Hand Print:-

27. Rotary Screen Printing Process

31. Block printing is a traditional process dating back to India in the 12th century.
Wooden blocks made of seasoned teak in different shapes and sizes are cut by
trained craftsmen. Each block has a wooden handle and two or three holes
drilled into the block to the passage of air and release of excess print paste.
Fabric is stretched over a printing table and fastened with small pins. Printing
starts from left to right, first the colour is evened out in the tray and then the
block is dipped in. Then the block is applied to the fabric with careful
registration and pressure is applied.
Block Printing

32. Dye sublimation allows photo lab quality picture printing. During the dye sublimation
printing process, an image is digitally printed in reverse with dye sublimation toners or
inks onto media. That image is then placed on top of a fabric and subjected to high heat
and pressure to form a heat press. The dye sublimation toners or inks sublimate – the
inks go from a solid state to a gaseous state without becoming liquid in between and
flow into the fabric, dyeing the threads.
This creates a gentle gradation of colour and does not distort or fade over time.
Dye Sublimination Printing

33. This is essentially transferring an image to fabric from a paper carrier. When heat and
pressure are applied to this paper the inks are transferred. Some transfers are topical,
and the image sits on the surface of the fabric. Other transfers are absorbed into the
fibres of the fabric.
Heat transfer printing is clean and environmentally safe. The only by-product is the
paper carrier. It is the perfect print method for short run and sample production, but
can also be used for batch production as well.
Heat Transfer Printing

34. Although experts disagree on the origins of Batik, it is very popular in
Indonesia and Africa.
The cloth that is used for batik is washed and boiled in water many times
before the wax can be applied so that all traces of starches, lime, chalk
and other sizing materials are removed. Before modern-day techniques,
the cloth would have been pounded with a wooden mallet or ironed to
make it smooth and supple so it could receive the wax design. The
designer uses a ‘tjanting’ (wax pen) to draw the design on the cloth. The
wax is kept fluid in a melting pot.
After the wax has been applied, the fabric is ready for the dye bath. Today
most batik factories use large concrete vats, above the vats are ropes with
pulleys that the fabric is draped over after it has been dipped into the dye
bath. The amount of time it is left in the bath determines the hue of the
colour (longer for deeper colours)
Batik

35. Also called application print. Design is printed directly onto a white cloth or a
previously dyed fabric. They are the most popular print types.
Direct Print

36. Fabrics are dyed a solid color prior to printing. When printing is done, the design is
applied by screen or roller with a chemical which removes the color of the originally
dyed fabric. Discharge prints can be made with rollers and screen methods. They are
not widely used because production costs are high.
Discharge Print

37. It involves a two step procedure:
(1) printing a pattern design on a white fabric with a chemical that will prevent
penetration of dyes; and piece dyeing the fabric. The result is a dyed background
with a white patterned area.
Resist Print

38.  It is one in which the background color is created by printing rather than dyeing.
 The ground and pattern design colors are printed onto a white cloth.
 One of the problems with blotch prints is that large background color areas of the
print are not covered with the full depth of color.
Blotch Prints

39.  This involves printing the warp yarns of a fabric before weaving. The fabric is
woven with a solid color filling, usually white. The result is a soft, shadowed,
blurred design on the fabric.
 These prints are found on high quality, costly fabrics because it requires careful,
meticulous labor.
Warp Prints

40.  Tiny particles of fiber are made to adhere to a fabric surface in conformance to a
particular design. Rayon and nylon fibers are typically used for flocking.
 The ability of flocked fibers to withstand dry cleaning and/or laundry depends on
the adhesive. Adhesives with excellent fastness to cleaning processes are used.
Flock Prints

41. 1. This involves printing with a chemical that will destroy the fiber in the
patterned design print area.
2. In fabrics that are made with blended yarns, the burn-out chemical will destroy
one fiber and leave the other undamaged. Unusual and interesting fabrics can
be created by this method.
Burn-out Prints

42.  These are fabrics in which both sides of the fabric are printed.
 They are made to imitate more costly woven yarn-dyed design effects such as
stripes, checks and plaids.They are rarely used because of the high cost of printing
both sides of a fabric
Duplex Prints

43. Variotherm in use. Only for pigment & base fabric just white & light color just
heat fabric print reduces, cold then fabric prints in show.
Magic color :-
Chemical in use:-
Chemical in use:-
 Variotherm & pigment.
 Color in use.
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok

44. Metallic print is the powder from then mix if any color & print.
Chemical in use:-
 Base - 200
 Powder  5-10%
 Color in use.
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok.
Metallic print :-

45. Glitter is the powder from. fixer must be use.
Chemical in use:-
 Binder - 100
 Glitter powder ----- 30-50
 Color in use.
 Fixer— 1-2 %
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
 Fixer can not be use then glitter is damaged print.
Glitter print:-

46. It is chemical character. It is imbues mesh.
Chemical in use:-
 Base & clear minimum - 50
 White if need -100
 Color in use.
Time: - 2 pieces/min. Temp- 170 c
Fault:-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
 Gum mistake then flock mistake.
Puff print:-

47. Print some pattern with the foil on the fabric or paper for shinny effect. Foil print is the
foil paper. it is heat transfer
Chemical in use:-
 Gum mix binder.
 Heat press foil.
 Time 10-15 sec & temp -160-165 c
Time: - 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault:-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
 Gum mistake then foil mistake& heat problem then print problem.
Foil print:-

48. The flock technique of printing designs with an adhesive and sprinkling with
fine bits of wool or silk was probably first adapted to wallpaper. fiber dust use with
gum.
Chemical in use:-
 Powder with gum.
 Fixer add gum
 Fixer-1% & gum-100%
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
 Gum mistake then flock mistake
Flock print :-

49. Discharge :-
Discharge means out of fabric colors. Activator must be use.
Chemical in use:-
 White & clear.
 Activator -->6-10%
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
 Fabric must be discharge.
 White fabric is no print.

50. It is oil soluble. It is sari cal thinner; it is oil to which other oils or substances are
added to produce a lubricant.
Chemical in use:-
 Seri cal thinner.
 Oil base color.
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
 Seri cal problem then print problem.
Oil base plastisol :-

51. Water-based ink is much more difficult to cure than plastisol. Whether printing with
plastisol or a water-based ink system, you are still printing. There are two major schools of
screen printing ink; plastisol and water based. Plastisol is a PVC based ink and is what the
majority of commercial printers use. Water based is, as the name suggests, a water based
ink with pigments suspended within it. Water based prints have many positive qualities.
The industry term "hand" refers to how soft a print feels on the decorated item. Water
based inks are well known for the minimal or soft hand that they provide. Prints made with
water based can be ironed, while plastisol prints cannot be, as the iron's heat plate would
melt the PVC in the ink.
Chemical in use:-
 Clear &white
 & color
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
 Setting
Water base plastisol:-

52. Pigment used in textile printing is mainly synthetic organic materials, except for
carbon black, titanium dioxide and anatase types copper & aluminum alloys &
sometimes iron oxide. When choosing these synthetic pigments, the price, the
fastness properties, the brilliance & the coloring power of the many produce
available are all taken into consideration. Pigments are various organic & in
organic insoluble substances, which are widely used in surface coating.
Chemical in use:-
 Water- 80kg
 Binder- 15kg
 Thickener- 5kg
 &color
Time :- 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault :-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
Pigment print:-

53. Requirements of Pigment print:-
 Pigment must have mixing ability.
 Pigment should be non toxic.
 Pigments have good covering power.
Advantages of pigment:-
 Pigment printing is most economical printing process & allows
maximum output of goods.
 Genera fastness properties are ok.
 It can be applied for natural as well as man made fibres.
 Pigment print presents least problem for the printers.
Disadvantages of pigments:-
 Pigments are sensitive to crushing during roller printing.
 Rubbing fastness is medium & no pigment is completely fast to dry
clearing.
Pigment print:-

54. It is direct over print white color then use.
Chemical in use:-
 White glow in the dark.
 Color in use.
Time: - 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault:-
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
Glow in the dark :-

55. This is called resist dyeing.

56. Bandhani is a tie and dye technique from India.

57. Burnout Printing
Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface. This is
primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibre content i.e. Cotton-
Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc. Here one fibre component is being dissolved thru chemical
reactions while the other content remains intact giving away raised illusion designs.

58. Dyeing fabrics
Tie Dye
HOW IS IT DONE?
A resist method of dying where fabric of finished
garments are either twisted, knotted, gathered or
crumpled and then bound with string or elastic
bands before dyeing.
Produces a variety of patterns. Garments made using
tie dye come in and out of fashion.
Colourfastness
WHAT IS IT?
Resistance to colour loss during manufacturing
and use. Varies with:
• Different fibres and blends
• Different dyestuffs
• Different conditions, e.g rubbing, washing,
ironing, perspiration, light, weather, seawater.
• ISO 105 evaluates colourfastness.

59. Dyeing fabrics
Industrially-produced
Batik
HOW IS IT DONE?
• Gum, wax-resist paste or resin is printed on
the fabric from hot rollers
• Fabric is dyed
• Heat finished to remove surplus gum or wax
and fix the dye
• Alternatively, batik patterns can be printed
on fabric from engraved rollers using
photographic methods or CAD/CAM
Hand-produced Batik
HOW IS IT DONE?
A design is drawn on fabric with melted wax
using a brush or tjanting and left to harden,
fabric is then brush or dip dyed and the wax
melted off using an iron. The dye resists
penetrating the fabric under the wax leaving a
patterned fabric.

60. Dyeing fabrics
Discharge printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
• a plain dyed fabric is printed with a
discharge paste which removes the ground
colour (bleaches it out)
Transfer printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
• the pattern is first printed onto special paper
•It is then transferred to the fabric using a
pressurised heated calender machine. The
temperature is high enough for the dyestuff to
turn into vapour and diffuse into the fibres.
•Well suited to synthetic fibres.

61. Printing fabrics
Block Printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
• Uses engraved wooden blocks
• Ancient method dating back to 2000BC
• Rarely used today.
Printing
WHAT IS IT?
The controlled placement of defined areas of
colour onto a fabric.
• Direct Printing methods:
• Block printing (ancient method)
• Rotary screen-printing (2/3 of today’s textiles)
• Flat screen-printing (1/3 of today’s textiles)
• Transfer Printing (4% of today’s textiles)
• Discharge printing
• Resist (Batik) Printing
• Digital Printing

62. Printing fabrics
Digital printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
• inkjet printers print CAD designs directly
onto fabric using special printing inks.
•This is a flexible form of printing suitable for
short runs and for producing fabric samples.
Resist (batik) printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
•White fabric is printed with a resist paste and
then dyed.

65. Marketing Printing - Digital
Printing
Iris Graphics
STORK
Toxot Imaje
Jemtex
STORK
Epson
Konica
Xaar
Spectra
Hewlet Packard
Canon
Lexmark
Ink-jet systems
Continuous flow Drop-on-demand (DOD)
Binary
deflection
Multiple
deflection
Mechanical
Piezo - activated
Thermic
"Bubble Jet"
• Differences in the selection and generation of droplets
Ink-jet systems

66. Marketing Printing - Digital
Printing
Bubble Jet printer
Ichinose
Colorspan FabriJet XII ENCAD 1500 TX
Colorwings TexJet 152

67. Marketing Printing - Digital
Printing
Tex-Print 2000
TX 2 1600JV-4
TX 1600 S
Mimaki printer generations - Piezo technology

68. Marketing Printing - Digital
Printing
Amethyst
Zirkon
TCP 4000
Digital printers "STORK"
Amber

69. Marketing Printing - Digital
Printing
Digital printers with Rubber Belt, Feeder, Winder

71. Lighter Print Faults in Textile Screen Printing on Fabric:
 Lighter shades on Selvedge and gradually deeper towards the other.
 In the middle of the fabric and darker towards the selvedges.
 While using large amount of foam.
 Due to uneven application of Gum.
Darker Screen Printing faults:
 May be obtained irregularly throughout the fabric.
 If a soft table is used on a hard table surface.
 If a hard squeeze is used on a soft table surface.
 Deep stripes along the warp.
 Very small specs of color on the ground (Unprinted Portion).
 Screen may get clogged during working.
Difficulties in printing:

72. Printing faults:
1. Print color shadin
2. Print slarted
3. Color spot
4. Bleeding
5. Print wrong
6. Print burn
7. Air hole
8. Print bubble
9. Print missing
10. Wrong place
11. Not properly attached
12. Hand feels
13. Migration
14. Dirty mark
15. Uneven shade
16. Shade variation
17. Print sticky
18. Print not coverage
19. Print gap
20. Print over
21. Wrong side
22. Color wrong
23. Size mistake
24. Bunoledle card mistake
25.Fabric h
26.Fabric shade
27.Crease mark

73. 28. Oil spot
29. Fabric burn
30.Needle mark
31. Cutting problem
32. Sticker wrong
33. Dye migration
34.Yarn hole
35. Yarn contamination
36. Fly yarn.
Printing faults: