1. Textile printing involves applying colored patterns and designs to fabric using thickened print pastes containing dyes or pigments. 2. There are several styles of printing including direct, discharge, and resist printing. Direct printing applies color directly to fabric while discharge and resist involve removing or preventing color fixation in certain areas. 3. The printing process typically involves color paste preparation, printing the fabric, fixation with steam or heat, and after-treatment including washing. Alternative techniques to printing include embroidery, knitting with colored yarns, and applique.

1. Styles of Printing
Presented by
Fatema Sharmin
Department of Wet Processing Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles

2. Printing
• The word of “printing” has derived from a Latin word which means “pressing “. It
implies a process that uses pressure.
• Textile printing is one kind of localized dyeing where dyes or pigments & chemical
applied by any method which can produce a particular effect of color on fabric
according to design.
• In a word, Applying colored patterns and designs to decorate a finished fabric is
called 'Printing'.
It’s a combination of art, engineering & dyeing.

3. Feature of Printing:
 Printing is applied in form of design or pattern. Single or multi color can be
applied.
 A special type of viscous liquid is used to hold the dye/pigment & chemical
which is called ‘Print paste’.
 High viscosity of print paste helps dye to adhere to surface of fibre. But the
fixation is done by applying steam which is called ‘curing’
 For dyeing low viscous or aqueous medium is used but printing is done in wet
viscous medium.
 The Dyes used for printing mostly include vat, reactive, naphthol (azoic) and
disperse dyes which have good fastness properties.
 The pigments, which are not truly dyes, are also used extensively for printing.
About 96% is done by pigment. These colors are fixed to the fiber through
binder.

4. Alternative process of printing
• There are some alternative processes for applying colorful design on
fabric. But printing is the cheapest process that’s why it is widely used.
The other processes are……..
• By dyed yarn in form of woven fabric.
• Embroidery
• Knitted with colored yarn.
• Applique.

5. Embroidery
Knitted with colored yarn.
Applique.

6. A Typical Printing Process Involves the Following
Steps Fabric preparation
Preparation of printing device (block/flat or rotary screen, roller)
Printing paste preparation
Impress on fabric
Drying the printed fabric
Fixation by curing
Washing & soaping
Finally dry
Delivery

7. Typical printing process involves following
steps
1.Color paste preparation
Printing is done by applying thicked print paste containing dyes or
pigment. Thickener is used to maintain viscosity. The paste should have
certain viscosity. If it is too thin the design wont be sharp & if it is too
thick it wont penetrate into the fibre.
Print paste= colorant+ thickener +auxiliary
2.Textile Printing
The dye or pigment paste is applied to the substrate using different
techniques.

8. 3.Fixation
Immediately after printing, the fabric is dried and then the prints are fixed mainly with
steam or hot air (for pigments). Note that intermediate drying is not carried out when
printing carpets (too much energy would be needed for removing the highly viscous
liquor)
4.After-Treatment
This final operation consists in washing and drying the fabric (it is not necessary when
printing with pigments or with other particular techniques such as transfer printing)

10. Different styles /techniques of printing:
• Direct style (which also includes digital and transfer printing)
• Resist style
• Discharge style
• Special style

11. Some special printing
 Flock style
 Dyed style
 burnt out style
 blotch printing
 air brush ( spray) printing
 photo printing
 High density
Combined Flock & Foil
print

12. Cont…
Rubber printing
Metallic printing
Foil printing
Glitter printing
Embossing
Crack printing
Foil printing

13. Puff printingGlitter printing
High density print
Flock print
Air spray print

14. Direct styles of printing
• A process wherein the colors for the desired designs are applied directly to the white
or dyed cloth.
• It is the most common approach to apply a color pattern onto a fabric.
• If done on colored fabric, it is known as overprinting.
• Example- block ,screen, transfer, ink jet. etc

15. How it is done
• The desired pattern is produced by pressing dye on the
fabric in a paste form.
• To prepare the print paste, a thickening agent is added to a
limited amount of water and dye is dissolved in it.
• Earlier starch was preferred as a thickening agent for
printing. Nowadays gums or alginates derived from seaweed
are preferred as they allow better penetration of color and
are easier to wash out.
• Most pigment printing is done without thickeners because
the mixing up of resins, solvents and water produces
thickening anyway

16. Block Printing
• The designs are carved on a wooden or metal block and the dyestuff in
paste form is applied to the design on the face of the block.
• The block is pressed down firmly by hand on the surface of the fabric.

17. Roller Printing
• In this method which can be called a machine counterpart of block
printing, engraved copper cylinders or rollers are used in place of
hand carved blocks.
• When the rollers move, a repeat of the design is printed on the fabric.
The printed cloth is passed into a drying chamber and then in a steam
chamber where the moisture and heat sets the dye.

18. fabric
Roller printing

19. Screen Printing
• It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens made of silk threads,
nylon, polyester, or metal. The printing paste or dye is poured on the
screen and forced through its unblocked areas onto the fabric.
• Based on the type of the screen used, it is known as
1. Flat Screen Printing
2. Rotary Screen Printing

20. Flat bed screen print

21. Rotary screen print

22. Transfer printing
• Transfer printing techniques involve the transfer of a design from one
medium to another. The most common form used is heat transfer
printing in which the design is printed initially on to a special paper, using
conventional printing machinery. The paper is then placed in close
contact with the fabric and heated, when the dyes sublime and transfer to
the fabric through the vapor phase.

24. Ink-Jet Printing :
There has been considerable interest in the
technology surrounding non-impact printing, mainly
for the graphic market, but the potential benefits of
reductions in the time scale from original design to
final production has led to much activity in
developing this technology for textile and carpet
printing processes.
The types of machines developed fall into two
classes, drop-on-demand (DOD) and continuous
stream (CS).

25. Discharge Printing
• The literal meaning of the word “discharge” is to
eliminate or to remove.
• It means the style of printing which can produce a
white or colored effect on a previously dyed fabric
ground.
• In this technique, the fabric is dyed in piece and then
it is printed with a bleaching agent that destroys the
color in the designated areas. Sometimes, the base
color is removed and other color is printed in its place.
The printed fabric is steamed and then thoroughly
washed.

26. How it is done
This discharging of color from previously dyed ground is carried out by a discharging
agent, which is capable of destroying color by oxidation and reduction.
The discharging agents are
1. Oxidizing agent i.e.
• Potassium chlorate,
• Na-chlorate etc.
2.Reducing agent
• Rongalite-c,
• Stannous chloride etc

27. Types of discharge printing style:
2 types of discharging styles are available.
White discharge and colored discharge.

28. White discharge
•
The fabric is dyed with certain class of dye
and then printed (according required design)
with a print paste containing “Reducing
agent” (usually “Rongolite C”) with no dyes.
• After printing, the fabric is steamed. The
reducing agent on the printed portion
destroys the ground color and thus produced
a white on base color.

29. Color discharge:
The fabric is dyed with certain class of dye and then
printed (according to required design) with a print paste
containing “Reducing agent” (usually “Rongolite C”)
with dyestuff.
After printing, the fabric is steamed.
The reducing agent on the printed portion destroys the
ground color and due to the presence of dye in print
paste, the new color is replaced with the design area.
Thus it produces a color-color combination.

30. Resist Printing
• The literal meaning of the term “Resist” is to prevent or to
hinder. A resist (wax or other resinous substance) solution is
applied according print design that will prevent the fixation of
any coloring agent employed after words on that area.
• In this technique, a resist paste is fixed onto the fabric and
then it is dyed. The dye affects only those parts that are not
covered by the resist paste.
• After dyeing, the resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on
the background of the fabric. Example- tie dye

31. How it is done
•
It is one of the oldest printing style in which two resulting pattern can be
obtained. In resist printing the fabric is first printed with an agent that resists
either dye penetration or dye fixation. During subsequent dyeing, only the
areas free of the resist agent are colored.
• A printing method in which the design can be produced: (1) by applying a
resist agent in the desired design, then dyeing the fabric, in which case, the
design remains white although the rest of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including
a resist agent and a dye in the paste which is applied for the design, in which
case, the color of the design is not affected by subsequent dyeing of the fabric
background.

32. How it is done

34. Types of resist printing style
2 types of resist styles are available. White
resist and colored resist.
a. White resist:
No color is added to the resist print paste.
After printing according to design the fabric
dried and then dyed so the unprinted portion
will be dyed. The printed portion will be un-
dyed. Thus it gives a color-white combination

35. b. Color resist:
Required color is added to the resist printing paste.
After printing according to design the fabric dried and then dyed so the
unprinted portion will be dyed according to dye’s color and the printed
portion will be printed according print paste color.
This it gives a color-color combination.

36. Tie Dyeing
• Firm knots are tied in the cloth before it is
immersed in a dye.
• The outside portion of the immersed fabric
is dyed but the color does not penetrates the
inside portions of the tied knots.
• There are various forms of Tie dyeing like
Ikat Dyeing where bundles of warp and/ or
weft yarns are tie dyed prior to their
weaving.
• In Plangi Dyeing the gathered, folded or
rolled fabric is usually held with stitching to
form specific patterns.

37. Reference
• http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/04/printing-styles.html
• https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/07/printing-style-style-of-
printing_9881.html
• http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/printing.html