Mangalagiri sarees are a traditional handloom product from Andhra Pradesh, India. They have been produced for over 500 years in the town of Mangalgiri using pit looms. The production process involves several steps including dyeing and weaving cotton yarn. Mangalagiri sarees are known for their intricate tribal designs woven with zari along the borders and pallu. They come in bold colors and are a major source of income for the 5000 weavers in Mangalgiri. In recent years, the sarees and other materials like kurtas have grown in global demand, challenging weavers to give them a modern twist while maintaining traditions.
Artisan with careful hand, foot and eye coordination embarks on the journey of weaving each thread that binds elements of life into one golden fabric. The process is long, as sometimes only about 2-3” of border gets woven in a day depending on the complexity of the design. The whole family of the weaver is involved, sharing varied responsibilities pertaining to the weaving process... Not only their livelihood but it is their life & mode of self-expression.
Artisan with careful hand, foot and eye coordination embarks on the journey of weaving each thread that binds elements of life into one golden fabric. The process is long, as sometimes only about 2-3” of border gets woven in a day depending on the complexity of the design. The whole family of the weaver is involved, sharing varied responsibilities pertaining to the weaving process... Not only their livelihood but it is their life & mode of self-expression.
Rogan art, an ancient skill with its origins in Persia. It is a craft which took over the course of time. Kuch's Rogan tradition is sustained by two families in Nirona Village.
here is brief information about Ahir and Heer Bharat embroideries of Gujarat, including origin, history, techniques used in making, motifs and designers.
you can check out how I used this embroidery in woman's apparel by clicking this link
https://www.behance.net/gallery/99553209/Heer-bharat-%28embroidery%29
Kota Doria ; Legacy,problem and solution by Rohan and NishantRohan Sharma
Kota Doria originated from a village Kaithun near kota, Rajasthan (India).It is one of the most prominent handloom clusters in Rajasthan . In textile and Handloom industry it is considered equal to Banarsi sarees and kanjivaram sarees of south India but this industry is facing many problems . We tried to find that out and suggested a solution.
When choosing organic clothing and textiles, it helps to reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides, and in turn, protect the health and the planet. It is easy to understand the hazards of such clothing on our skin, which is the largest organ of our body.
Bangladesh’s Jamdani sarees are gaining popularity among the fashion-loving Indian women though they have rich tradition in the fashion world, market operator’s said.Bangladesh is exporting fine quality Jamdani sarees to a number of countries including India, Italy, USA, Canada and the Middle Eastern countries. Jamdani is one of the finest muslin textiles of Bengal, produced in Dhaka District, Bangladesh for centuries.The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. Under British colonialism,the Bengali jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favoring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh.
Rogan art, an ancient skill with its origins in Persia. It is a craft which took over the course of time. Kuch's Rogan tradition is sustained by two families in Nirona Village.
here is brief information about Ahir and Heer Bharat embroideries of Gujarat, including origin, history, techniques used in making, motifs and designers.
you can check out how I used this embroidery in woman's apparel by clicking this link
https://www.behance.net/gallery/99553209/Heer-bharat-%28embroidery%29
Kota Doria ; Legacy,problem and solution by Rohan and NishantRohan Sharma
Kota Doria originated from a village Kaithun near kota, Rajasthan (India).It is one of the most prominent handloom clusters in Rajasthan . In textile and Handloom industry it is considered equal to Banarsi sarees and kanjivaram sarees of south India but this industry is facing many problems . We tried to find that out and suggested a solution.
When choosing organic clothing and textiles, it helps to reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides, and in turn, protect the health and the planet. It is easy to understand the hazards of such clothing on our skin, which is the largest organ of our body.
Bangladesh’s Jamdani sarees are gaining popularity among the fashion-loving Indian women though they have rich tradition in the fashion world, market operator’s said.Bangladesh is exporting fine quality Jamdani sarees to a number of countries including India, Italy, USA, Canada and the Middle Eastern countries. Jamdani is one of the finest muslin textiles of Bengal, produced in Dhaka District, Bangladesh for centuries.The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. Under British colonialism,the Bengali jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favoring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh.
Let us now understand about Crafts -
Ikat is a resist dyeing technique that is used to create intricate patterns on fabric. The yarn is dyed before it is woven, which results in a design that is fixed and cannot fade.
Chanderi is a fine, lightweight fabric that is made from cotton. It is known for its soft, breathable feel and its intricate patterns.
Embroidery is a decorative needlework technique that is used to create designs on fabric. Embroidery can be done by hand or by machine, and it can be used to create a variety of different designs, from simple to elaborate.
Kalamkari is a form of hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile originating from the coastal region of Andhra Pradesh, India. The word "kalamkari" literally means "pen work" in Telugu, and the technique involves using a pen to draw the design onto the fabric, which is then filled in with paint.
Chikankari is a form of embroidery that is practiced in the Lucknow region of India. The word "chikankari" means "hole work" in Hindi, and the technique involves using a needle to create small, delicate holes in the fabric, which are then filled in with thread. Chikankari fabrics are known for their intricate designs and delicate patterns, and they are often used to make saris, blouses, and other garments.
Handblocked fabrics are created by applying a resist dye to a fabric using a hand-carved wooden block. The block is dipped in dye and then stamped onto the fabric, creating a repeating pattern. Handblocked fabrics are often used to make clothing.
Bandhani, also known as tie-dye, is a method of dyeing fabric by tying it off in knots before applying the dye. This creates a resist pattern that is determined by the placement of the knots. Bandhani is a traditional Indian textile art that has been practiced for centuries.
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Brocade is a type of fabric that is woven with a raised pattern. The pattern is created by using two or more different colored threads, which are woven together in a specific way. Brocade fabrics are often used to make formalwear, such as evening gowns and suits.
Kantha is a type of embroidery that is done by hand using running stitch. The stitches are used to create a variety of patterns, such as flowers, animals, and geometric shapes.
Dabu is a type of resist dyeing technique that is used to create geometric patterns on fabric. The fabric is dipped in dye and then stamped with a wooden block that has been carved with the desired pattern. Dabu is a traditional Gujarati textile art that has been practiced for centuries.
Ajrakh is a type of block printing that is used to create intricate patterns on fabric. The fabric is first dyed in a base color and then stamped with blocks that have been carved with the desired pattern.
These are just a few of the many fabric crafts that are practiced in India. Each craft has its own unique history and tradition, and each one produces beautiful and unique fabrics.
For more reach out to us at
https://thedesigncart.com/
These are some of the most famous and unique textiles from India. These textiles have been developed
over time and their production has been passed on through generations. They reflect the culture of the
people from the different regions in which they are produced.
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Present scenario of the mangalagiri sarees and fabrics
1. .
Present Scenario of the Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
Mangalgiri Sarees and Fabrics are created by execution handiwork weaving in Mangalgiri,
a town in Guntur district of the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. The Mangalgiri fabric is
produced by weaving with the help of pit looms from combed yarn by warp and woof
interlacing. The fabric then undergoes the process of dyeing. The Nizam design is another
characteristic of the fabric is also produced in Mangalgiri by the famous and experienced
artisans and weavers.
Mangalagiri sarees and suit materials are very popular and standard handloom product
from the state of Andhra Pradesh. The name Mangalgiri is derived from the place
Mangalgiri located 12 kms away from Vijayawada. The town of Mangalgiri is not only
famous for its beautiful sarees but is also popular for being a pilgrimage terminus.
Fig: Mangalagiri sarees
The occupation of weaving is as old as 500 years as per some engravings found at this
region. There was a wandering period for the weavers during the rule of QutubShahi due
2. to proliferation in taxes. The production of the Mangalagiri sari includes different stages
which includes asfollows: -
Stages of production process of Mangalgiri sarees:
Raw materials
Pure cotton yarn, silver and gold zari's, synthetic and natural
dyes and some chemicals are to be used
Cotton purification
This process involves boiling of hank cotton to remove
certain impurities, soaked overnight, rinsed and made
appropriate for dyeing process
Dyeing
It involves bleaching technique for white saris and for
coloured ones, Vat dyes are also be used very often
Removal of excess
dye
Dyed or bleached yarn endures saturated in boiling water with
some techniques to cut out surplus dyeing
Drying
After the above process, the yarn is dried and also adds light
sensitive colours in shades
Pre-loom process:
Winding of hank
yarn into warp and
weft
Charka, shift bamboo and bobbin are used to form warp.
While, the weft is made with help of a pirn
Street sizing - the
warp extension
The warp extension, spraying of rice conjee (starch)confirms
appropriate weaving followed by drying
Weaving process
It involves Warp and Weft method of weaving and sometimes
replaced by Jacquard weaving. Usage of only pit looms for
weaving, designing and cutting per the goods demand
undertakes
Cutting & folding Woven cloth undergoes cutting per the goods demand
Inspection of sarees Inspection by the master weaver to rectify flaws
Marketing
The period of 1985 bought revolution with new market for
dress materials and as well as the saris
Mangalagiri saris are unique variety, woven from cotton and has the most characteristic
features such like zari on the border and no woven designs on the body is the speciality
features of the mangalagiri sarees.
This special saree has intricate tribal designs that are woven in cotton along with zari or
golden colored patterns that occur in small checks. The pallu (edge) or the saree borders of
both top and bottom sides, of this saree is ornamented with a striped design, which is a
typical tribal embellishment that is made out of golden embroidery. The Mangalagiri sarees
come in a host of bold colours that make it look very elegant and good-looking.
3. Mangalgiri cotton is created by the cotton yarn that is acquired from the mills. This cotton
yarn is then boiled in water and caustic soda for a couple of hours before it is suitable for
dyeing. If the yarn is to produce white coloured sarees, then it is bleached before weaving,
else for colouring chemical dyes are used. After dyeing, the yarn is then sun dehydrated
before it is all set for the weaving process.
Fig: Mangalgiri handloom cotton saree
This improvement facilitated the rulers to adopt a more favourable attitude with the
weavers and reduce the taxes. In short, the support is proof enough that the Mangalgiri
handloom tradition has been a part of the town for more than five centuries.
Mangalgiri is a small village that has a population of around eighty-five thousand to one
lakh people. Out of the total population, around 5000 of them are weavers of Mangalgiri
4. textiles. The exceptionality of Mangalgiri cotton is due to its sturdiness. The fabric is
woven only on pit loom, and there are no breaks on the weave towards the edges of the
fabric along with the sole fact that it is formed in Mangalgiri alone is the special features.
The Mangalgiri saree has no embellishments on itsmain body. It has a zari or golden thread
work embellished Nizam border and pallu. These geometrical and simple designs are
inspired by the tribal designs and also making its significance to attract the foreign tourists
visiting this place and eagar to purchase these mangalagiri sarees and textile materials.
Many other parts of the Indian people, especially women of all the age groups interested
to buy more number of Mangalagiri sarees for their own usage and also willing to give
their friends and relatives as the specialgift.
Present day development of Mangalagiri Saree:
At current, handloom weaving is the prime occupation of Mangalgiri town and around half
of the population depends on this cottage industry for their living. The beautifully woven
sarees and dress materials that are produced by Mangalgiri are what have placed this small
town on the world textile map.
There are a lot ofchallenges being made at giving a modern twist to the Mangalgiri textiles.
Apart from the attractive and bright saree creations, the Mangalagiri dress materials have
a global demand too in recent time. A proportion of the new generation like the teen-girls
enjoy wearing the cool cotton kurtas, dupattas, salwar-kameez,patiyala salwar and stoles
with the Mangalgiri weave which can be teamed up with western wear. Mangalagiri Saree.
This saree, highlighting ethnic designs, is very much in demand in the fashion market of
the present scenario.
Mangalagiri is a very popular handloom textile which has a lot of worldwide demand
owing to its simple-minded patterns, toughness of the cotton and colours and wear ability
to the customers wishes to buy more sarees and textile materials from the Mangalagiri
place. Due to foreigners visit in this place textile business have well developed.Many
international buyers are giving saree and textile material orders to Mangalagiri textile
weavers service centres and Foreign Exchange value is rapidly increased.
References:
1. The Saris - by Rtakapur Chishti.
2. Indian Costumes - by Anamika Patak
3. Costumes of India - by S.N.DHAR.
4. https://en.wikipedia.org
5. https://www.utsavpedia.com
6. https://www.utsavfashion.com
7. http://kaushicollection.blogspot.com