spredding and cutting process

1. UNIT I - SPREADING AND CUTTING
• Basics of fabric spreading, modes of spreading, different fabric packages,
spreading tension, uniformity and alignment, woven fabric lay, knitted
fabric lay, types of fabric lay, Lay planning principles.
• Marker making, principles of marker making, types of markers, marker
planning and marker efficiency, and fabric design parameters on markers,
matching and grain line.
• Fabric cutting methods, latest fabric cutting equipments, and record
keeping in cutting room, advancements in cutting room technology

2. Fabric Spreading
Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreaded in order to get required
length and width as per marker dimension. This is a preparatory operation for cutting and
consists of laying.
Objects
•To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as
to length and width and without tension.
•To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garment maker plans
and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at a time.
•To make every ply plain and flat.

3. Requirements Of Fabric Spreading
• Alignment of fabric ply,
• Correct ply tension,
• Fabric must be flat,
• Elimination of fabric flaws or defects,
• Correct ply direction and lay stability,
• Elimination of static electricity,
• Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles,
• Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting,
• Avoidance of distortion in spreading,
• Matching the checks and stripes.

4. Types of Fabric Lay:
• According to construction:
Straight lay:
Stepped lay:
• According to the direction of spreading
One way spreading (Face to underside):
Laying-up in pairs (Face to face):
Lap (Continuous, Zigzag) lying:

5. Difference
between
straight and
stepped lay is
as follows:
Straight lay Stepped lay
Each ply is spread according
to marker length.
Ply of fabric lay is not spread
according to marker length.
Mostly used Rarely used
Fabric wastage is less. Fabric wastage is more
Fabric spreading is simple. Fabric spreading is difficult.
One marker is used.
Different types of marker are
used.

6. Lay Planning?
• Lay planning is a process that prepare and organize the work in a
cutting room of garment industry. Several basic parameters
influencing productivity and work efficiency have to be taken into
consideration when planning work processes in a cutting room.
Among processes of cutting room lay planning is the most
important. They can only be carried out when production orders
of fabrics include the following information: technical
documentation of all ordered styles, sets of pattern pieces for all
the styles, style samples, fabric specifications, and fabric samples.

7. What is Marker:
• Marker is a thin paper which contains all the
necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of garments. It is made just before
cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages.
The width of the marker is equal to the width of the
fabric and it should not be greater than the width of
the fabric, i.e. fabric width is greater than or equal to
marker width. The pattern pieces should be placed
very carefully in such a way that it would minimize
wastages. Different techniques are used in marker
making to minimize the wastages.

8. Points to be considered before marker making:
• Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2 inch)
• Fabric length must be higher than marker length.
• Length of the cutting table.
• Production planning.
• When marker is laid down on the piece of cloth, the grain line should be parallel to
the line of the warp in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.

9. Marker Efficiency: • The percentage of the total fabric that is actually used in
garment parts.

10. Factors influencing Marker efficiency:
• Marker planner: The efficiency of marker mainly depends on the
competency, experience, honesty and technical knowledge of the marker
planner.
• Size of the garments: Smaller and larger sizes lead to less marker efficiency,
medium garment sizes gives higher marker efficiency.
• Marker length: For higher marker length, higher marker efficiency and
production of cutting room can be increased.
• Pattern Engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased by changing
pattern design of particular parts of the garments.
• Fabric characteristics: Usually symmetrical fabric provides higher marker
efficiency and asymmetric fabric leads lower marker efficiency.

11. Requirements of Fabric Cutting
To cut the pieces of garments from fabric lay accurately,
following requirements should be fulfilled. Requirements
are as following:
1. Accuracy of Cut
2. Clean edge
3. Support of the lay
4. Consistent cutting

12. • Accuracy of Cut :Garments cannot
be assembled satisfactorily, and
they may not fit the body correctly
if they have not been cut accurately
to the pattern shape. Precision of
means cutting parts’ shape and size
must be as per original sketch.
It depends upon some factors-
• The method of cutting employed.
• The Marker Planning and marker making.
• In both die cutting & computer-controlled cutting, the
achievement of accuracy comes from the equipment.
• Skill of the operator.

13. Clean edge: The raw edge of the fabric
should not show any fraying or snagging,
these defects come from an imperfectly
sharpened knife.
Support of the Lay
The cutting method should provide the
support for the fabric in addition to allow
the blade to pierce the lowest ply of a
spread and separate all the plies.
Consistent Cutting
Based on the method of cutting employed, the lay
height will vary. To get a consistent quality of cutting,
the lay height should be as low as possible without
affecting the production planning and quality of
cutting.

14. Importance of cutting
• The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garment panels precisely,
consistent with the pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a necessary
volume to keep the sewing department supplied with work.
The four main operations or processes
involved in the cutting section are
• Marker planning
• Fabric spreading
• Fabric cutting
• Preparation for the assembling
process

15. Importance of cutting
• The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garment panels precisely,
consistent with the pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a necessary
volume to keep the sewing department supplied with work.

16. Computerised marker planning system

18. Types of cutting Machines
• Straight knife cutting machine.
• Round knife cutting machine.
• Band knife cutting machine.
• Die cutting machine.
• Computer controlled knife cutting and table.
• Laser cutting machine.
• Plasma cutting machine.

19. Types of cutting Machines
• Straight knife cutting machine.
• Round knife cutting machine.
• Band knife cutting machine.
• Die cutting machine.
• Computer controlled knife cutting and table.
• Laser cutting machine.
• Plasma cutting machine.

21. UNIT II
BASIC SEWING TECHNIQUES
Seams: Definition, Types of seams, seam quality, seam performance,
factors to be considered in the selection of seam, seam finishes,
seam defects.
Stitches: Definition, stitch classes, stitch parameters, factors to be
considered in the selection of stitches. Stitching defects.
Sewing Thread: Types, construction, sewing thread quality, selection
of sewing thread.

22. UNIT III - GARMENT COMPONENTS FOR MEN’S AND WOMEN’S TOP
• Men’s and women’s tops – basic bodice blocks, collars,
sleeves, cuffs, plackets – types, pleats, gathers and
darts, functional purpose of components in garment
construction.