New finishings for innovative technical textiles

NEW FINISHINGS FOR
INNOVATIVE HOME AND
TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Infoday. April 21st, 2015. Denizli (Turkey)
Oscar Calvo
R&D Group on Textile
Finishing, Health and
Environment

1. INTRODUCTION TO THE R&D GROUP ON TEXTILE FINISHING
2. POSSIBILITIES FOR FUNCTIONALIZATION BY FINISHING
3. CURRENT TRENDS ON FINISHING PRODUCTS & PROCESSES
4. CASE STUDIES AND SUCCESSFUL STORIES
5. CONCLUSIONS
New finishings for innovative
home and technical textiles2
SUMMARY

The needs for innovation in the textile sector are directed towards:
•The development of new textiles with special properties.
•The diversification of the existing ones.
These special properties can be achieved, in most cases, by modifying
the textile surface through technical finishing processes/technologies:
•Coating.
•Lamination / bonding.
•Surface treatments.
•Electrospinning.
3 Infoday. April 21st, 2015. Denizli (Turkey)
home and technical textiles
FUNCTIONALIZATION AND
SPECIAL PROPERTIES

Our pilot plant can apply wet finishing on textiles by padding
(impregnation) or by knife coating (on air and over roll) techniques.
Maximum width: 50 cm; it can works in a speed range of 1 - 10 m/min;
drying-curing temperatures: 30 - 200ºC; pressure for padding (control of
the pick-up/uptake) can be applied in the range of 1 - 6 bar.
Coating and tailor-made finishing formulations
Special finishing formulations
can be developed by AITEX using
different additives, in order to
achieve special properties on
the coated/finished fabrics that
are not already available with
commercial finishing products.

Knife coating (on air) applies smooth and fine coatings on the surface
(microns), and usual coating weights are not higher than 50 g/m2:
tablecloths, roller blinds, curtains, outdoor fabrics...

Knife coating (over cylinder/roll) applies a controlled coating thickness
(from 0,1 - 0,15 mm to 1 - 2 mm) and usual coating weights can move
from 50 up to 500 g/m2: blackout curtains, upholstery (FR back coating)…

Hotmelt lamination -even coating- technologies are based in the use of
adhesives that are applied in a melted state (from 60 - 80 to 220ºC
depending the adhesive type) solidifying again quickly when are cooled
down. Hotmelt adhesives are dry compounds (solid content: 100%) and
are applied without the use of water or solvents. Pilot plant for trials:
Speed: 2 - 18 m/min.
Width: 250 mm.
*Different gravure rollers: 10, 15, 30 g/m2
Thermoplastic adhesives:
- polyolefins (PE, PP).
- etilen-vynil-acetate (EVA).
- copolyamides (PA).
- copolyesters (PES).
- thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPUs).
Reactive adhesives:
- reactive polyurethanes (PUR).
- reactive polyolefins (APAO).
Lamination and bonding (by hotmelt technology)
Engraved* roller system available
FOR BONDING
DIFFERENT
MATERIALS

Plasma technology (dry process using only gas as raw material) is a
kind of surface treatment that activates polymeric materials (including
yarns, fabrics or membranes) increasing their reactivity. Plasma
treatments only modify the performance of the surface (not other
properties of the bulky material).
Activation of the textile surface (to improve wettability/adhesion
behavior) or possibilities to develop repellent nanocoatings on the
fabric surface (by plasmapolimerization) can be achieved. 2 pilot plants.
Surface treatments (by plasma technologies)
Low pressure plasma
Atmospheric (corona
discharge) plasma
To improve wettability:
Inorganic gasses (O2, N2)
To obtain repellency:
Organic monomers that
can polymerize
Power source:
100W to 1400W
Speed process:
5 to 50 m/min

Electrospinning is used for the production of nanofibers, starting from a
polymer solution. Method: high voltage is applied to a polymer solution
(some electroconductive performance). One electrode of the voltage
source is placed into the solution and the other is connected to the
collector of nanofibers. When charges within the solution reached a
critical amount, a fluid jet will erupt from the droplet at the tip of the needle
resulting in the formation of a Taylor cone. The electrospinning jet will
travel towards the region of lower potential, which in most cases, is a
grounded collector. A web of solid randomly oriented nanofibers is
deposited on the surface of the grounded collector. 4 pilot plants available.
Electrospinning technologies

• Textile products finished by padding, coating or hotmelt lamination.
• Finishing formulations with special properties using functional additives.
• Research on new / greener finishing products (new FRs, new repellents).
• Green / sustainable technologies (plasma, water treatment systems…).
• Garments with high-tech properties (e.g. finished fabrics for workwear).
• Textile solutions for sportive people with high level of comfort level.
• Electrospinning technology for biomedicine, cosmetic, acoustic end-uses.
• Interactions detergent / cleaning systems with fabrics / garments.
10
Main researching lines of this R&D team:
NF web (nano)

• Functional hotmelts for different textile app. (Cornet EU Project 2009-10).
• Glass microspheres and colloidal nano-silica (regional project, 2009).
• UV protective curtains (Valencian SME project, 2010).
• Sand as additive for textile coatings (Valencian SME project, 2010).
• Compatibilization of FR and anti-odour finishes (SME national project. 2010).
• Collaboration with Clariant / Archroma (dyeing & fluorocarbons, 2010 - 11).
• Nano-clays and glass microspheres (national project, 2010-12).
• Thermochromic pigments (national project, 2010-12).
• SUSFLE, SUStainable FLamEproof fabrics (ERANET project 2012 - 14).
11
Previous experience in the field of textile finishing:

Possibilities to develop innovative fabrics for technical applications (by
finishing) should take into account:
• Availability of chemical products for finishing and their functionality.
• The application technology (machinery to be used).
• Technical requirements of the end product
(including esthetic issues).
• Washing fastness.
• Environmental issues.
• Cost of raw materials, final price
and selling price of the end product.

OPTIONS FOR TEXTILE
FUNCTIONALIZATION BY FINISHING
WATER-BASED
DISPERSIONS
MEMBRANES FOR
LAMINATION
USE OF
ADDITIVES

Chemical products for textile finishing are currently available under water-
based systems. Solvent-based systems are being rejected!!!
WATER-BASED DISPERSIONS:
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION

Liquid repellency (water/oil) can be achieved using fluorocarbons. Main
techniques: padding/spraying. Main fibers can be treated: all, including
technical fibers.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Upholstery.
- Curtains, roller blinds, panels…
- Tablecloths.
- Outdoor fabrics and awnings.
- Workwear & protective clothing
(Army, firesuits, medical and
surgery, chemical...).
- Automotive.
- Footwear.

FR performance with several chemical products. Main techniques:
padding/coating. Main fibers can be treated: cotton, PES, wool,
acrylics.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Upholstery.
- Mattress ticking.
- Carpets.
(molten metal, firesuits..).

Activity against bacteria, fungi, dust-mite, mosquitoes, bugs, moths...
Main techniques: padding/coating/spraying. Main fibers can be treated:
all.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Upholstery.
- Mattress ticking.
- Bedclothes (bedsheets, linen…).
- Carpets.
(Army, medical/surgery…).
- Sports and leisure clothing.
- Underwear, socks, footwear…
- Automotive.

Improvement of the touch/handle of the fabric (Softness) or the Antistatic
performance. Main techniques: padding/spraying. Main fibers can be
treated: synthetics.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Upholstery (S).
- Technical curtains. (A)
(electrical risks, work with
electronic components, medical
and surgery…). (A)
- Sports and leisure clothing (S).
- Terry fabric, towels, bathrobes (S).
- Underwear, nightwear (S).
- Automotive (S) (A).

Colouring of the fabric (full colouring or only the surface). Main techniques:
padding/coating/printing. Main fibers can be treated: Common fibers.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Upholstery .
- Curtains.
- Tablecloths.
- Bedclothes.
- Fashionable clothing.
- Nightwear.
- Graphic arts, artworks.
- Advertising.

Colour change of the fabric (due to an external stimuli: light, temperature,
pH…). Main techniques: padding/coating/printing. Main fibers can be
treated: Common.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Bedclothes.
- Protective clothing (firesuits…).
- Textile-based safety signs.
- Nightwear.
- Diapers.

Use of microencapsulated chemicals or essential oils/extracts from plants.
Main techniques: padding. Main fibers can be treated: Common fibers.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Upholstery.
- Curtains.
- Bedclothes.
- Mattress ticking.
- Terry fabric, towels, bathrobes.
- Nightwear.

Use of microencapsulated active compounds or essential oils/extracts;
releasing effect on the skin. Main technique: padding. Main fibers can
be treated: Common.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Bedclothes.
- Terry fabric, towels, bathrobes.
- Underwear, socks…
- Nightwear.

To protect not only the fabric (to avoid yellowness and colour change) but
also the end-user. Main technique: padding. Main fibers can be treated:
Common fibers.
FUNCTIONALITIES
REPELLENCY
FLAME RETARDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL &
INSECT PROTECTION
SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC
COLOUR (FASHION)
COLOUR CHANGING
FRAGRANCES
WELLBEING
UV PROTECTION
- Upholstery.
- Automotive.
- Graphic arts, artworks.
- Advertising.

MEMBRANES FOR LAMINATION:
Functionalization of home and technical textiles can also be achieved
using polymeric membranes + adhesives + lamination systems. Solvent-
based adhesive systems are being rejected!!!
NON-BREATHABLE
MEMBRANES
BREATHABLE
MEMBRANES
BREATH & FUNCTIONAL
MEMBRANES
THERMOADHESIVE
FILMS
ADHESIVE REQUIRED (HOTMELT )
HEAT (MELTING the adhesive) + PRESSURE (BONDING) required = CALENDERING
LAMINATED
TEXTILE PRODUCT

Hotmelt (adhesive) technology and several application systems
available are the main causes of the strong growth of the laminated
textile subsector in EU28.
Taken from “Innovative
maschine concept for
production with high
flexibility in the laminating
and coating technique”.
LACOM. UNITEX Congress,
2004.
AVAILABLE
AT AITEX

Non-breathable membranes (based on PVC, PE, PES or TPU) can be
used for end-products like: mattress cover (low comfort), tablecloths,
curtains, roller blinds, blackout fabrics, outdoor fabrics,
advertising… PVC membranes also have intrinsic FR properties.

Breathable membranes (based on PTFE, PES or TPU) are mainly used
for end-products addressed to technical clothing (fire risks, chemical
risks, waterproof properties…) but also for home-textile applications like
mattress cover (high comfort). They act as a barrier to water and wind.

Breathable + functional membranes are also based on PTFE, PES or
TPU but give some ‘extra’ functional properties: e.g. Flame retardancy,
antimicrobial or IR barrier. Mainly used for end-products addressed to
technical clothing (fire risks, military uses, chemical risks…).

USE OF ADDITIVES:
Solid additives (micro/nanoparticles) are another option to develop new
finishings and functionalities for textiles.
Know-how on additives from other
industrial sectors to textile!!!
Development of tailor-made finishing
formulations focused on technical
properties that cannot be achieved
by currently available finishing products
in the market.
KNOW-HOW ON
ADDITIVES
SOLVING MIXING
PROBLEMS
DISPERSION ON A
POLYMERIC MATRIX
NEW FINISHING FORMULATION (tailor-made) with SPECIAL PROPERTIES

USE OF ADDITIVES:
ACTIVE
SUBSTANCES
Skin treatments
CERAMIC
PARTICLES
IR barrier
ALUMINIUM
PARTICLES
Thermal barrier
CARBON
NANOTUBES
Conductivity

USE OF ADDITIVES:
Protection against
molten metal splashes
NANOCLAYS BIOCERAMIC
PARTICLES
To improve blood circulation
GLASS
MICROSPHERES
Thermal & acoustic insulation
Better stab
protection
Nano Al2O3

32
EU sector of technical textiles
obtained by finishing processes
(coating, laminating) is a highly
technical, very competitive market
and in a constant growth.
For example, in 2011, turnover of
laminating EU companies was
around 8.000M € (nearly 8% of these
companies in the EU were Spanish).
Demand distribution of coated / laminated
technical fabrics at European level, 2011 (Detrell
A. The European Coating and Laminating Sector.
TCL2012).

33
In Europe, hotmelt technology can
be currently considered as a mature
technology, which started to come
into use in the early 2000s, with the
development of new laminating
systems, new membranes and new
adhesives.
Nevertheless, it did take about 10
years to reach its true potential and
the leading technical finishing
companies have invested in new
laminating lines (or they are currently
incorporating it into their production
processes).
Sales evolution (data in M metres) of waterproof-
breathable textile articles in the EU (Detrell A. The
European Coating and Laminating Sector.
TCL2012).

34
Fluorocarbons: New chemicals more environmentally friendly and safe
(fluorocarbons C6-C4 versus C8/PFOA). Other trend in this field is the
synthesis of finishing products with a low drying/curing temperature
(120-130ºC instead of 150-160ºC) in order to be capable to process
thermosensitive textile materials like PP or elasthane.
Flame retardants: Focused in the use of halogen-free flame retardants
(HFFRs) like nitrogen- and phosphorus-based compounds including
organophosphored chemicals. Use of chemical products based on
aluminium trihydroxide is growing, too.
Antimicrobials: Current trends are still mainly silver-based compounds.
Other compounds like quaternary ammonium with modified organo-silane
groups, chitosan-based compounds and chemicals with zinc (Zn) or
copper (Cu).

35
Wrinkle-free and easy-care: Glyoxal-based compounds with very low /
zero formaldehyde content. Safety and health issues.
Electrical conductivity on textiles:
- Inclusion of micro/nanoadditives intrinsically electroconductive (CNTs,
Cu, etc.) on a water-based polymeric resin.
- Use of conductive polymers like polypyrrole (PPy), polyaniline (PANI)
or polythiophene (PEDOT or poly-3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene)
- Use of electroconductive inks for textile-based “printed electronics”.
Machinery and processes: Manufacture of eco-sustainable wet
finishing machinery that allows lower consumption of water, energy and
chemicals than traditional processes (addressed for finishing fabrics or
garments); Hotmelt application systems more ecological and efficient.

36
CASE 1: FUNCTIONAL COURTAIN WITH ACOUSTIC
PROPERTIES
Objective. Obtaining a functionalized home textile with:
• Acoustic properties in order to avoid the reverberation noise.
• Fire retardant properties.
• Blackout properties.
Tested in lab and in real environment:
In a
Reverberation
Chamber (lab)
In a meeting
room (real)

37
CASE 1: FUNCTIONAL COURTAIN WITH ACOUSTIC
PROPERTIES
Results.
The use of curtains reduces the reverberation time and improves the
acoustic comfort.

38
CASE 2: CERAMIC AND ALUMINIUM COATINGS FOR
CURTAINS
Objective. To develop ceramic-based and aluminium-based coating
formulations and their application on fabrics, in order to obtain:
• IR reflection.
• Thermal barrier effect.
Use of functional micro/nanoparticles and development of ‘tailor-made’
functionalities and coating formulations.
Mixing and
aggregation of
particles
solved!

39
CASE 2: CERAMIC AND ALUMINIUM COATINGS FOR
CURTAINS
Results. High IR reflexion values obtained by coating process.
Formulation and fabric coating tested at lab and real environment (textile
company).
TEST STANDARD LEVEL
Weight (coated) - 274,19 g/m2
UV protection /
UPF
AS/NZS 4399
UPF T (UVA) (%) T (UVB) (%)
50+ (excellent) 0,02 0,02
Light fastness ISO 105 After 100 hours = 7-8 (maximum = 8)
Rubbing
fastness
ISO 105
Dry Wet
Change in
colour
5 (max = 5) 5 (max = 5)
Staining 5 (max = 5)
4-5 (max =
5)
FR behaviour BS 5867 part 2 PASS
IR reflexion
(300 - 2500 nm)
AITEX own
method
(Spectrophot.)
70,28% (up to 89% @ range 800 - 1200 nm)
Heat reflexion - 36-37ºC (after 30 min)

40
CASE 3: RESEARCH ON LASER TECHNOLOGY FOR NEW
EFFECTS ON UPHOLSTERY
Objective. To investigate possibilities of implementation of a
breakthrough textile technology, laser treatment, on upholstery finishing.
Laser treatment (laser marking) is a technology quite used for ‘controlled’
aging of denim, being a successful substitutive process of sandblasting
(health problems on workers).

41
CASE 3: RESEARCH ON LASER TECHNOLOGY FOR NEW
EFFECTS ON UPHOLSTERY
Results. New colour effects and designs on dyed upholstery fabrics
without use of printing processes, only by laser marking of the pre-dyed
fabric.

42
CASE 4: LAMINATED FR MATTRESS COVER OBTAINED
USING HOTMELT TECHNOLOGY
Objective. To develop a laminated mattress cover (breathable /
waterproof) with FR properties in all components involved:
• Textile substrate.
• Hotmelt adhesive.
• Polymeric membrane.
Hotmelt application system based on engraved cylinder (gravure roller)
was investigated, in order to ensure good adhesion and breathability -dots
of adhesive applied on the surface, not full coating-.

43
CASE 4: LAMINATED FR MATTRESS COVER OBTAINED
USING HOTMELT TECHNOLOGY
Results. Some combinations of textile substrate + polymeric membrane
were obtained.
Main technical properties reached:
- FR class: A (ISO 12952); Water column: > 5m (EN 20811); Washing
cycles: 50 @ 60ºC (ISO 6330).

44
CASE 5: DEVELOPMENT OF BABY GARMENT WITH A
FINISHING BASED ON MINERALS FOR WELLBEING
Objective. To develop a knitted fabric finished with a formulation that
includes a mineral can be activated by rubbing and emit negative-charged
ions (wellbeing and relaxing effect for the end-user). Especially designed
for baby garments.
Some issues were considered:
• Identification of minerals with the desired
effect.
• Tailor-made finishing formulations.
• To ensure good adhesion of microparticles
to fibers.
• To quantify the emission of ions and the
wellbeing of babies.

45
CASE 5: DEVELOPMENT OF BABY GARMENT WITH A
FINISHING BASED ON MINERALS FOR WELLBEING
Results. Mineral-based finishing formulation were obtained and applied
on knitted fabrics. Benefits of the special functionality were evaluated and
quantified at lab scale and real environment (end-users).
Home Test: End-product was tested on
babies (0 - 3 months old) for 1 week.
Evaluation by questionnaire was done on parents (asking them about
sleep quality, sleep time, awakenings, relaxing/exciting state of the
baby…). It was found that sleep/rest of babies was better using this
garment than a conventional one.
Unit Value
Ionic emission
(original)
Anions/cm3 4900
Ionic emission
(after 5 washes)
Anions/cm3 2800
Can be considered a good result if >1000

46
CASE 6: DEVELOPMENT OF SMART COLOUR-CHANGING
COATINGS FOR SAFETY PURPOSES
Objective. To develop and integrate a textile-based alarm system (based
on colours) for firefighter suit in order to indicate burn/injury temperature
risk.
Main issues:
• To detect high temperatures and warn the end-user in a visual way
through changing the color of the fabric, at 60ºC and at 80ªC.
• Development of a ‘tailor-made’ coating/printing solution.
• Research on smart colour-changing materials.

47
CASE 6: DEVELOPMENT OF SMART COLOUR-CHANGING
COATINGS FOR SAFETY PURPOSES
Results. Some coating formulations were developed, with the ability of
changing their colour when varying temperature of the environment.
Application by knife coating technique was done on FR fabrics and
integration/confection steps were also possible.

5. CONCLUSIONS
48
New chemical finishings (via commercial products or via ‘tailor-made’
formulations) are available for the textile finishing market.
New functionalities can be developed/obtained using special additives.
Special machinery is usually not required for the application of new
(wet) finishings, as they can be processed by padding / coating / printing…
New eco-sustainable technologies are being implemented in the
finishing subsector: hotmelt lamination, garment finishing with high savings
on raw materials, laser marking… and new products, material
combinations and effects can be achieved.
A wide range of end-products and markets can be reached with a right
combination of fabric + functional finishing + technology.

Teşekkürler!!!
Thank you for your attention!!!
María Blanes (mblanes@aitex.es). Team leader of the
R&D Group on Textile Finishing, Health and
Environment.
Oscar Calvo (ocalvo@aitex.es). Researcher.
R&D Group on Textile Finishing, Health and
Environment @ LinkedIn:
https://www.linkedin.com/groups/R-D-Group-on-Textile-
8102442/about
AITEX website: http://www.aitex.es

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