This document discusses sustainability in the textiles industry. It begins by defining sustainability and its three pillars of economy, society and environment. It then discusses the textiles industry, describing the various processes involved and its large economic and employment impact. However, it also notes that textiles are the 2nd most polluting industry, using vast resources and chemicals. The document then explores various ways for the industry to move towards more sustainability, such as using organic, recycled and alternative materials. It also discusses eco-friendly dyeing, finishing and packaging processes. It concludes by looking at sustainable supply chain management and reducing the environmental impact of textile transportation.

1. Sustainability in
Textiles
08/04/2023
Navya Bhatia
National Institute of Fashion technology | Bengaluru

2. How to move
towards
sustainability
Challenges on
the path of
sustainability
in Textiles
Contents
Introduction
to
Sustainability
Textile
Industry
Textile and
Environment
Conclusion
References

3. Introduction to Sustainability
The process(es) by which something is kept at a certain level.
Sustainability comprises three pillars: the economy, society, and the
environment. These principles are also informally used for profit,
people and the planet.
Agenda 2030 from 2015 also viewed sustainability as one of the 17
Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) with their 169 targets.
Image showing three principles of Sustainability

4. Textile Industry
This industry includes processes such as:
Yarn, cloth and clothing
Image showing Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Finishing and Printing
Textile production is largely mechanized, and the
industry is a major contributor to the economies of many
countries, providing employment for millions of people
around the world.
The industry includes a wide range of products, from
traditional materials like cotton, wool, and silk to modern
synthetic fabrics such as polyester and nylon.

5. Textiles and Environment
Textile Industry is the 2nd most polluting sector in the world after Oil. It uses many natural resources, depends
on fossil fuels, pollutes the environment along its value chain, and is extremely wasteful. It is also supported by a
culture of overproduction and consumption, as well as by a workforce that is underpaid and subjected to
harassment, unsafe working conditions, and discrimination. The fashion industry has a direct impact on many
SDGs.
78 Billion Cubic
meters of water
each year
20% of industrial
water pollution
10% of global
greenhouse gas
emissions
Approx. 8,000
chemicals
92 million tons of
textile waste
generated every
year globally

6. How to move towards sustainability
Organic Cotton
Recycled Cotton
Hemp
Linen
Bamboo Linen
Cork
ECONYL
Recycled polyester
Deadstock
Material Selection: Textiles that greatly reduce the environmental effect of their
conventional counterparts, whether through organic and chemical-free farming, the use
of recycled materials, circular manufacturing techniques, or sustainable end-of-life
disposal options.
Natural Sustainable Clothing Fabrics (Vegan)
Recycled Synthetic Sustainable Clothing Fabrics (Vegan)
Sustainable textiles start with sustainable materials.

7. Lyocell
Modal
Bamboo Lyocell
ECOVERO™
Piñatex
Bananatex
SCOBY Leather
S.Cafe
Brewed Protein
Apple Leather
Woocoa
Cupro
QMilk
Sustainable Semi-Synthetic Clothing Fabrics (Mostly Vegan)
Material Selection

8. Samatoa/Lotus Fabric – Fabrics extracted from lotus flower is known as Samatoa. The Lotus plant is believed
to have healing abilities, and wearing a fabric made from lotus fibres is also thought to have the same effects.
Lotus plants are pure by virtue, radiating this purity through their threads.
Fabrics from fermented wine - A group of scientists at the University of Western Australia has produced
material by letting microbes work on wine. It is made by adding bacteria called Acetobacter into cheap red
wine. The bacteria ferment the alcohol into fibres that float just above the surface. These fibres can be
extracted and fashioned into clothing. Since Acetobacter produces vinegar as its end product, the garments
have a definite odour.
Hagfish slime thread– These fibres are obtained from the goo attached to a hagfish, an eel-shaped bottom-
dwelling animal of the deep sea. It is the only known creature with a skull but no vertebral column. Scientists
have discovered that proteins within this slime have mechanical properties similar to spider silk and can be
woven into high-performance bio-materials.
Material Selection: POSSIBILITY

9. Cocona Fabric- It is a fabric that is developed from fibrous coconut husks that incorporates
natural ingredients into polymers. By using activated carbon made from coconut shells,
Cocona fabric utilizes natural technology that outperforms other fabrics and yarns. Cocona
fibres and yarns can be used in a wide range of knit and woven fabrics as well as non-
woven ones that provide effective evaporative cooling odour adsorption and UV protection.
Fabrics made from Cocona yarns and fibres are lightweight, comfortable and retain all of
the conventional product features, such as stretch and wash-ability.
Material Selection: POSSIBILITY
Image showing
process of Cocona
fabric

10. Qmono - This Japanese fabric is made from synthetic spider silk, produced using microbes and spider silk
genes. The fibre is tougher than steel, yet still lightweight and comfy. It’s completely biodegradable, and, as
they say in the movies, zero spiders were harmed in the making of this fabric.
Coffee ground fibres - Most coffee drinkers simply throw away coffee grounds after making their coffee. But
it is an important raw material that can be used to make fibres. Taiwanese textile company Singtex’s
technology combines the post-patented processed coffee ground with polymer to create master batches
before spinning them into yarn. The resulting coffee yarn is multi-functional and can be used in a variety of
products, from outdoor and sports performance wear to household items used every day. They offer
excellent natural anti-odour qualities, in addition to UV ray protection and a quick drying time.
DuPont™ Sorona Launches Plant-Based Faux Fur for Performance Fashion Apparel- This thoughtful
substitution for animal fur, provides a premium look and feel in garments. Sorona faux fur, made with 70 to
100 per cent bio-based Sorona polymer fibres, creates one of the first commercially available plant-based
faux furs. The long-lasting, fur alternative has an array of performance attributes including warmth, design
flexibility, and dyeability. With exceptional softness and durability, this natural-feeling fur alternative will not
break down from heat or UV rays.
Material Selection: POSSIBILITY

11. Outerknown, the California Lifestyle Brand, Creates World's First Merino Wool Boardshorts-Using the latest
Optim spinning techniques and a unique 100% Australian Merino wool fabric, Outerknown creates its new
wind- and rain-resistant "Woolaroo" boardshorts. 100% Merino wool fibres are pre-stretched at high levels of
thread density for the warp and weft yarns, then optimized for spinning and weaving processes, finished and
the stretch is released, causing the yarns to contract into a dense fabric that is wind and water resistant.
Sourced from Australia, the 100% natural, biodegradable and renewable fibre brings benefits such as odour
resistance, durability, breathability and natural UV protection.
Genomatica Showcases the First 100% Renewably-Sourced Nylon- Eighty years after DuPont's first
commercial production of nylon, Genomatica announces the world's first renewably-sourced key ingredient
for nylon-6, made from plants instead of crude oil. Genomatica's innovation, along with European nylon
producer Aquafil, will produce 100% renewably-sourced nylon, delivering the equivalent performance of
conventional nylon, but with lower environmental impact. This bio-based nylon has the potential to reduce
greenhouse gas emissions of a $10 billion global industry that produces over five million tons of nylon-6 per
year.
Material Selection: POSSIBILITY

12. Desserto - Two entrepreneurs from Mexico have created vegan
leather out of nopal (prickly-pear) cactus leaves. The cruelty-free
leather is called Desserto. They don’t use toxic chemicals,
phthalates, or PVC in their design.
Fabrican- It is an instant spray-on fabric technology. The spray-on
material is made from polymers and natural or synthetic fibres. The
spray is delivered from a compressed air spray gun, or aerosol can
and dries instantly in contact with the air, creating a non-woven
fabric. It doesn't require the steps, i.e. Spinning, scouring, dyeing
etc. that make pollution.
Fairbrics and H&M to make garments out of thin air - Instead of
emitting carbon dioxide into the air, this innovation collects the
gas. It activates and transforms it into a sustainable polyester fabric
that looks and feels like regular polyester. Then these pellets are
spun into polyester fibres and yarn that can be used in clothing.
Material Selection: POSSIBILITY
Image showing Spray dress on Bella Hadid

13. ECO DESIGN
Ecological, recyclable, ergonomics, environmental friendliness
The 10 strategies are:
1. Design to minimise waste
2. Design for cyclability
3. Design to reduce chemical impacts
4. Design to reduce energy and water use
5. Design that explores clean/better technologies
6. Design that takes models from nature & history
7. Design for ethical production
8. Design to reduce the need to consume
9. Design to dematerialize and develop systems & services
10. Design activism

14. ECO DESIGN
Ecological, recyclable, ergonomics, environmental friendliness
Design For Recycling and Disassembly: White fabrics which allow easy
dyeing, natural fibres that are easier to extract and are more versatile,
good quality fibres (length and fineness), which can be processed on
faster machines, pure, unblended fibres that require less processing
than fibre mixtures, guaranteeing reliable results and efficiency in the
recycling process.
Zero waste pattern cutting: Drawing inspiration from the art of origami
form a 3D shape that forms the garment itself.
Design for Longevity: 1) Sizes, dimensions and shapes that allow easy
adaptation of the garment to varying body sizes. 2) Quality of the fabrics
used 3) The use of classic colours 4) Care

15. Eco-friendly alternatives to traditional production
The environment-friendly chemical choice for wet textile processing.
Purpose Chemical Alternative
Sizing Starch Water-soluble PHA
Desizing Hydrochloric acid Amylases
Scouring of cotton Sodium hydroxide Pectinases
Bleaching Oxidation of
vat and sulphur dyes
Hypochlorites Hydrogen Peroxide
Thickener
Potassium
dichromate
Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrophobic agent Kerosene
Water based
polyacrylate cpolymers
Purpose Chemical Alternative
Water repellants C8 fluorocarbons C6 fluorocarbons
Crease recovery
chemicals
Formaldehyde based-
resin
Polycarboylic acid
Wetting agents and
detergents
Alkyl phenol ethoxylates
Fatty alcohol phenol
ethoxylates
Neutralisation agent Acteic acid Formic acid
Peroxide killer Sodium thiosulphate Cataleses
Shrink proofing Chlorination Plasma treatment

16. Eco-friendly alternatives to traditional finishing
Plasma technology: It has improved fibre surface properties without affecting desirable bulk
properties. It also offers environmental advantages. Therefore, there are increasing uses of
plasma treatment of synthetic fibres such as polyethene terephthalate, nylon, and
polypropylene. A general effect is an improvement in their hydrophilic properties.
Laser Treatment: Extensive research has been carried out into the possibility of surface
finishing of synthetic fibre fabrics by laser irradiation.
Nanotechnology: It is the science of the small with big potential. In recent years, noble
metal nanoparticles have been the subject focused research due to their unique electronic,
optical, mechanical, magnetic and chemical properties that are significantly different from
those of bulk materials. The most widely used example of textile finishes by nanotechnology
is anti-microbial finishing.
Cold or low-temperature dye processes:
The dye processes save energy by operating at atmospheric temperatures and do not
require steaming of the textile to set or fix dyes.

17. Eco-friendly alternatives to traditional dyeing
Supercritical CO2 Dyeing
In this state CO₂ has a very high solvent power, allowing the dye to dissolve easily. Thanks to
the high permeability, the dyes are transported easily and deeply into fibres, creating vibrant
colours. CO₂ dyeing does not need added process chemicals to dissolve dyes.
No process chemicals, no water, no waste water and therefore no wastewater treatment is
necessary. The CO₂ we use is reclaimed from existing industrial processes, recycling 95% of it
in a closed-loop system.
Ultrasonic-assisted wet processing
Most of these processes involve using chemicals to assist, accelerate or retarding their rates.
They are carried out at elevated temperatures to transfer mass from the processing liquid
medium across the surface of the textile material in a reasonable time. Producing high-
intensity, uniform ultrasound in a large vessel is difficult.
Ultrasound reduces processing time and energy consumption, maintain or improve product
quality, and reduce the use of auxiliary chemicals. In essence, the use of ultrasound for dyeing
will use electricity to replace expensive thermal energy and chemicals, which have to be
treated in wastewater.

18. Eco-friendly alternatives to traditional dyeing
Alovera is a well-acclaimed natural mordanting agent. It is
known to have increased fastness properties of natural dyes
just fine like other metallic mordanting agents. The special
short-stemmed plant’s inner leaf gel is said to have
antimicrobial properties.
Another noteworthy natural mordanting agent is banana sap.
The pseudostem of banana has been used in some countries to
make qualitative bio-products such as fibre to make yarn,
fabric, apparel and fertilizer, handicrafts, bio-chemicals, paper,
fish feed, candy and pickles etc. In traditional uses, the banana
extract is used as a mordanting agent or brown-gold colour
dye for clothes and fibres. The Banana pseudo-stem sap has
some special properties relating to various phenomena such as
the browning of fruits after harvesting, permanent staining of
cloth and fibres, and antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-
hemorrhagic properties.
Image showing natural dyes

19. Eco-friendly Packaging
Sustainable packaging implies packaging that incorporates the three principles of sustainability reduce-reuse-
recycle.
Product Advantages Disadvantages Image
Apparel
Mailers
100% recycled, renewable source material
Plastic-free (trace polymers in adhesives)
15pt paperboard - strong for bulky goods
Crease lines for expandability
Naturally biodegradable and compostable
More expensive than
Heaviest mailer - more expensive to ship
Strong seal requires firm adhesive
Paper can tear or puncture
Paper is not 100% weatherproof
EcoX
Mailers
100% recycled, renewable source material
Plastic-free (trace polymers in adhesives)
Extremely durable, strong fibres
Water-resistant
Curbside recyclable
Naturally biodegradable, compostable
More expensive
Less presentable than Apparel Mailer
Paper can tear or puncture
Kraft
Mailers
100% recycled, renewable source material
Plastic-free
Made with 10pt paperboard - lightweight
Naturally biodegradable, compostable
10pt paperboard - less protective
Paper is not 100% weather proof
Paper can tear or puncture

20. Eco-friendly Packaging
Sustainable packaging implies packaging that incorporates the three principles of sustainability reduce-reuse-
recycle.
Product Advantages Disadvantages Image
Poly
Mailers
Weather-proof
Reusable for returns
100% recycled
Lightest option
Lowest carbon footprint
Derived from petroleum-based plastic
Loses its shape if the product does not fill
it out completely
Flimsier presentation
Custom
Shippin
g Boxes
100% recycled, renewable source material
Plastic-free
Strongest, most durable and protective option
Curbside recyclable
Naturally biodegradable, compostable
Heaviest solution
Typically increase the amount of air that
is shipped
Bulkier to store
Highest carbon footprint

21. Supply Chain
An integral part of the company is the supply chain management that is required for the company’s success
and customer satisfaction. Good analytic and reporting work with machine learning to continually improve
processes throughout the supply chain.
Procurement
Procuring sustainable
materials to use in their
products
Operations
Look for operational
processes or steps across
the supply chain that could
be more efficient and
reduce resource usage
Retirement
Avoid excess waste and
obsolete items by designing
products for upcycling and
reuse
Data and Communication
Analyse the efficiency of the
first three areas, and
strengthen any related
efforts, by conveying to
customers, supply chain
partners and other
stakeholders

22. 70%
Transportation
Transportation in the textile industry may occur through air travel, water, by ship, rail, on the road, and using
planes as the means of transportation. The transportation process consumes energy, which leads to the depletion
of natural resources and emissions of carbon dioxide, which in turn negatively affects the environment.
Manufacturers and retailers of textiles
usually make use of aeroplanes in
order to transport raw materials and
finished goods over long distances.
Otherwise, it makes use of trucks to
move its goods. Researches indicate
that these two modes are the most
pollution-emitting modes of transport
in logistics. Aircraft engine emission
consists of around 70 per cent of CO2
gas that is released into the
atmosphere.
The use of ships and rails is recommended
for the textile logistics sector. According
to studies, the emission of greenhouse
gases can be reduced by up to 99 per cent
by switching from the use of planes to the
use of ships. In 2008, Levi Strauss altered
its shipping practices. It decreased its use
of trucks and aeroplanes to transport
goods and increased its use of ships and
rails. It found out that it had reduced its
carbon dioxide emission by 700 metric
tons for that year.
METRIC
TONS
700 Planes emit around
0.8320 lb CO2/ton-
mile, and ships emit
around 0.0146 lb
CO2/ton-mile.
Clearly, planes emit
more CO2 than ships
and are hence, more
harmful and avoidable
as compared to the
later.

23. Challenges on the path of sustainability in Textiles
The absence of a single, agreed-upon definition of sustainability that is applicable to the whole apparel sector
is the first obstacle to sustainable practices. The fashion trends and fashion seasons make apparel one of the
most change-intense categories of consumer products. The challenge of rising utility costs, specialised
trained labour, rising labour costs, climate change, resource scarcity, unstable economic situations, and other
factors is one that the textile sector does not entirely address. We cannot get those vibrant and bright
colours by using natural dyes. Another dyeing challenge was that obtaining the same colour from multiple
sessions with natural dyes was almost impossible. It is not just used clothing items that end up in landfills but
deadstock fabric also. When clothes end up in landfills, they take years to decompose and are also a waste of
money and resources.

24. Conclusions- Together we can recycle more
Logistics and supply chain was one area in the textile industry that remained largely
unnoticed. With sustainability practices getting the limelight, it is bound to be touched
upon by retailers and manufacturers in future.
The use of ships is less in textile logistics. Textile retailers and manufacturers mostly
prefer to transport their goods via trucks for local destinations and via aeroplanes for
overseas destinations.
It is necessary, for the preliminary development phase of a concept, to have an open
vision.
Ensuring fair wages and safe working conditions for workers in textile production is an
important aspect of sustainability.
Providing clear information about the production process and the environmental and
social impact of textiles can help consumers make informed choices and hold companies
accountable.

25. References
Ghezzo, P. (2018). Ecodesign in the Textile Sector: Unit 09: Ecodesign approaches in textile products.
Retrieved April 8, 2023, from http://www.ecosign-project.eu/wp-
content/uploads/2018/09/TEXTILE_UNIT09_EN_lecture.pdf
Focus, T. (2023, March 18). The Sustainability in Textile Industry. Textile Focus.
https://textilefocus.com/sustainability-textile-industry/
Team, S. (2023, March 12). 31 Sustainable Fabrics For The Most Eco-Friendly Fashion. Sustainable Jungle.
https://www.sustainablejungle.com/sustainable-fashion/sustainable-fabrics/
F. (2012, July 25). Opting for Trains and Ships in Textile Logistics. Fibre2Fashion.
https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6450/opting-for-trains-and-ships-in-textile-logistics
Thanks