Major Formula on Garments for Beginners

Written by Shabuz Biplob

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Foreword : This article has been written for the beginners of garment /
buying house. It will ask you question, prepare you for calculation & will
give you solution. There are thousands of questions, I've given few
answers. There are so many ways & formula to perform a task here.
Through day by day practices, you will find the easiest way for you to do
your job well.
Shabuz Biplob,
Apparel Professional,
Cell Phone : +8801511779988
Email : Shabuz.biplob@outlook.com


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INDEX
A. Weight Conversion
B. GSM, Oz, Embroidery Unit
C. Measures Conversion
D. Fabric Consumption
E. Thread Consumption
F. Carton Consumption & Pricing
G. Poly Bags Consumption & Costing
H. Button Linear & Button Counting
I. Threads Length Calculation
J. Sweater Gauge Counting& Yarn Consumption
K. Garments CM (Cost of Manufacturing) Calculation
L. Garments Costing Formula


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A. Weight Conversion:
As a garments / buying house worker, we often need converting weight. For this, we need know the information below.
1 lb. = 453.6 grams LBs = Grams / 453.6 Grams = LBs X 453.6
1 kg = 2.2 lbs. Kilogram = LBs / 2.2 LBs = KG X 2.2
1.A sweater’s weight 950 grams, find out weight in lbs.?
Answer: 950/453.6 = 2.094 LBs (Pounds) (453.6 grams = 1 lb.)
2.A Bundle of Yarn’s weight 3 lbs., find out weight in grams?
Answer: 3 x 453.6 = 1360.80 grams (1 lb. = 453.6 grams)
3.A sweater of 3 kg weight, find out weight in lbs. ?
Answer: 3 x 2.2 = 6.6 lbs. (1kg = 2.2 lbs.)
4.A sweater of 3 lbs.weight, find out weight in KGs ?
Answer: 3 / 2.2 = 1.36 KGs (2.2 lbs. = 1 kg)


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B. GSM, Oz, Embroidery Unit:
We, the workers of garments & buying house, are very much familiar to GSM, Oz& Embroidery. For novice, please
note, it’s generally counted weight of knitted fabric in GSM (Grams per Square Meter). For woven fabrics, it’s counted
weight in Oz (Ounce) Per Square Yard. Now we will learn how to convert them.
Oz per Square Yards = GSM / 33.906 12000 stitches = 1 unit (embroidery stitch)
100cm X 100cm X 100cm = 1 CBM 12inches X 12inches X 12 inches = 1 Cubic Feet
5.A Single Jersey Knit Fabric GSM 200 grams, find out Oz Per Square Yard ?
Answer: 200/33.906 = 5.898 Oz. (33.906 GSM =1 Oz per Square Yard)
6.A Twill Fabric of 8 Oz, find out it’s GSM ?
Answer: 8 x 33.906 = 271 GSM.(1 Oz per Square Yards = 33.906 GSM)
7.A fabric with warp thread 120, weft thread 60, Count of yarn 40, find out its GSM ?
Answer: (120 + 60) x 47/(40 + 40) + 5 = 110 GSM (We should called around 110 as there are a lot of formulas & no
formula can reach the actual amount of GSM till now) Formula: ( warp + weft) x 47 / (warp count. + Weft


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Count.) + 5 = GSM.In case different types of warp thread or weft thread is used then this formula may not work
accurately. It is also known as conversion formula from Fabric Construction to Fabric Weight.
8.A woven fabric with warp thread 120, weft thread 60, Count of yarn 40, find out its Oz per Square Yard?
Answer: {(120 + 60) x 47/(40 + 40) + 5}/33.906 = 3.27 Oz per Square Yard. (1 Oz per Square Yard = 33.906
GSM)
Formula: {(warp + weft) x 47 / (warp count + Weft Count) + 5} / 33.906 = Oz per Square Yard
See the photo below to identify warp & weft threads.


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Note: Fabric Construction (120 x 60 / 40 x 40) means there are 120 threads in warp (EPI) & 60 threads in weft (PPI) &
both yarn’s count is 40 on 1 square inch fabric. EPI means Ends per Inch & PPI means Picks per Inch.
See photo below to identify EPI & PPI.
The image above shows that vertical threads are EPI (warp thread) & horizontal threads are PPI (weft thread).
9.A carton Length 60cm, Width 40cm & Height 30cm, find out CBM (Cubic Meter) ?
Answer: 60 x 40 x 30/1000000 = 0.072 CBM (1 CBM = 1000000 square cm)Formula: length X width X
height/1000000


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10. Carton’s Length 80cm, Width 60cm, Height 30cm, find out CBM of 100 cartons ?
Answer: 80 x 60 x 30/1000000 x 100 = 14.4 CBM. Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity
11. Carton’s Length 14 inches, Width 12 inches, Height 8 inches, find out CBF (Cubic Feet) ?
Answer: 14 x 12 x 8/1728 = 0.777 CBF (1 CBF = 1728 square inches)
Formula: lengthX width Xheight/1728
12. 1 unit embroidery stitch price tk.20, one garment has 800 embroidery stitches, find out embroidery costing
of the garment ?
Answer: 20/12000 x 800 = 1.33 taka. 1 embroidery unit = 12000 embroidery stitches.
Formula: price/ 12000 X embroidery stitches
C. Measures Conversion:
To learn about Measures conversion, please memorize the formulas below. It’s so important for RMG workers to know
& learn measures conversion.
1 inch = 2.54 cm centimeter (cm) = inch X 2.54 1 meter = 39.37 inches
36 inches = 1 yard


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13. A fabric with a length of 100 yards, find out it’s length in meters ?
Answer: 100 x 36/39.37 = 91.44 Meters (1 yards = 36 inches)(1 meter = 39.37 inches)
14. A fabric with a length of 100 meters, find out it’s length in yards ?
Answer: 100 x 39.37/36 = 109.36 Yards.
15. A fabric’s Width (Dia) is 54 inches, find out the Knitting Machines Dia in cm ?
Answer: 54 x 2.54 + 1.62(Shrinkage Percentage) = 138.78cm
(Suppose, this fabric’s shrinkage% is 3 after finish/wash. We’ll learn of fabric shrinkage in my next Note well)
D. Fabric Consumption:
Fabric Consumption is very important for a probationer of management & merchandizing. As 60% to 70% cost of a
garments comes from fabrics. During fabric consumption, please consider wastage minimum 5%.
16. A fabric piece of Length 10 yards, Width 40 inches & GSM 180, find out its weight in kg?
Answer: 10 x 36 x 40 x 180 / 1550000 = 1.67 KGs Formula: length X width X GSM/1550000 (1
yard = 36 inches)


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Firstly, you have to convert the fabric length into inches, as you see we have fabric length in yard & width is in inches.
Please note, divided value “1550000” is used if the measures of fabric is mentioned in inches or yards. For cm &
meters, the value will be changed.
17. A fabric roll of Length 70 meters, Width 48 cm, GSM 200, find out the fabric roll’s weight in kg ?
Answer: 70 x 100 x 48 x 200/ 10000000 = 6.72 KGs Formula: length X width X GSM/10000000 (1 Meter = 100
cm)
Firstly, you have to convert the fabric length into cm (centimeter), as you see we have fabric length in meters & width
is in cm. Please note, divided value “10000000” is used if the measures of fabric is mentioned in cm or meters.
18. 2 KGs’ fabric with length 15 yards, width 28 inches, find out it’s GSM ?
Answer: 2 x 1550000/15/36/28 = 205 Formula: kg X 1550000 / length/ width (1 yard = 36 inches)
Here value “36” is used to convert fabric’s length into inches, because we have fabric length in yard & width is in
inches. Please note, divided value “1550000” is used if the measures of fabric is mentioned in inches or yards. For cm
& meters, the value will be “10000000”.
19. 2 kgs fabric with length 14 meters, width 71 cm, find out it’s GSM ?
Answer: 2 x 10000000/14/100/71 = 201. Formula: kg x 10000000/ length/ width (1 meter = 100 centimeter)


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Here value “100” is used to convert fabric’s length into centimeter, because we have fabric length in meter & width is
in cm. Please note, divided value “10000000” is used if the measures of fabric is mentioned in cm or meters.
20. A basic pant of Length 40 inches, width 12 inches, GSM 210, find out its fabric consumption in KGs?
Answer: 40 x 12 x 4 x 210/1550000 + 5% = 0.27 kg. Formula: length X width X 4 X GSM/1550000 + Wastage%
(This formula is applied if the measurement of pant is in inches, for cm measurement value “1550000” will be changed.
Value “4” means the pant has four panels or sides. Please Note, all measurements mentioned in this book are imaginary.
Merchandizer of a factory always calculates consumptions of something in dozen. But I’ve calculated in piece. You
need multiply the outcome with 12 to convert consumption in dozen.
The photo below shows you a pant’s Length & Width.


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21. A pant with Length 100 cm, Width 30 cm, GSM 210, Figure out it’s Fabric Consumption in KGs/dzn ?
(1 dozen = KGs?)
Answer: 100 x 30 x 4 x 210/10000000 + 5% x 12 = 3.18 KGs. Formula: (length X width X 4 X GSM/
10000000 + 5%) x 12 (This formula is applied if the measurement of pant is in cm)
22. A pant of Length 40 inches, Width 12 inches, you have a fabric of width 34 inches, find out 12 (dozen)
pants’ fabric consumption into yards ?
Answer: (40 x 12 x 4/34/ 36 + 5%) x 12 = 19.81 Yards. Formula: (length X width X 4/Fabric Width/ 36 + wastage %)
x 12 (36 inches = 1 yard)
23. A T-shirt with Chest 46 cm, Body Length 60 cm, Sleeve Length 23 cm, Half Armhole 27 cm, fabric’s GSM
200, figure out it’s fabric consumption in kgs/dzn ?
Answer: [{(46 x 60) + (23 x 54)} x 2/200/ 10000000 + 5%] x 12 = 2 kgs. Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve
length X full armhole)} x 2 X GSM + wastage%] x 12
24. A T-shirt with Chest 18 inches, Body Length 24 inches, Sleeve Length 9 inches, Half Armhole 10 inches,
fabric width 48 inches, find out it’s fabric consumption in yards / dozen ?
Answer: [{(18 x 24) + (9 x 20)} x 2/48/ 36 + 5%} x 12] = 8.95 yards. Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X
full armhole)} x 2 / fabric width / 36 + wastage%] x 12.


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The photo below indicates T-shirt & its measurement point.
Note: A shirt or pant with more parts like collar, pocket, cuff etc. then we’ve to figure out consumption of each parts
separately, and finally we need add all consumptions together. One more important thing, I didn’t mention sewing
allowance during fabric consumption of product. You have to add sewing allowance with each measurement point
during fabric consumption.
25. Suppose, we've made a marker of 5 pcs shirts to cut fabrics. we see, marker length 7 yards 4 inches, marker
width 60 inches, fabric GSM 180, now figure out Marker Consumption & Fabric Consumption in Dozen ?


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Answer: Marker Consumption: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 = 1.78 KGs You see, firstly I’ve converted
Marker Length into inches (7 x 36 + 4) as 36 inches = 1 yard. Formula: marker length X marker width X
GSM / 1550000
Fabric Consumption in dozen: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 / 5 x 12 = 4.28 KGs. Formula: marker consumption
/ pcs X 12
So, we see, KG = length X width X GSM / 1550000
Or, Length = KG x 1550000 / width / GSM
Or, Width = KG x 1550000 / length / GSM
Or, GSM = KG x 1550000 / length / width(Please add wastage minimum 5% with all outcome).
E. Thread Consumption:
We often need figure out thread consumption of various items like Shirt, Shorts, Tanktopsand Pants etc. Thread
consumption means how much thread we need to stitch a product. To figure out thread consumption, we’ve to pay
concentration on sewing machines, number of needles, fabric thickness & above all how much thread is used to stitch 1
inch by a machine. And you need consider minimum 10% wastage to find out thread consumption of a product.
Information below shows you how much threads you need to stitch 1 inch of fabric. It differs fabric to fabric as on their
GSM & construction. Besides you can stitch 10 inches of a fabric, then cut 1 inch stitch, measure the length of each
thread, then figure out total length of threads & finally add wastage minimum 10%. We know, it’s a long process.
Better we can memorize information below & imagine wastage depending on fabric GSM. For fabric with high GSM,
we’ve to increase wastage percentage. If we want to figure out thread consumption of a shirt, then firstly we’ve to


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separate the different stitching of that shirt. Look information below for how much thread you need to stitch one inch
fabric by different sewing machines.
Single Needle Plain Machine needs2.75 inches thread for per inch stitch
2 Needles Plain Machine = 5.5 inches for per inch stitch
3 Threads Over lock Machine = 15 inches thread for per inch stitch
4 Threads Over lock Machine = 19 inches thread for per inch stitch
5 Threads Over lock M/c = 23 inches for per inch stitch
Safety Stitch = 20 inches for per inch stitch
Flat lock Stitch = 32 inches for per inch stitch
2 Needle Kansai M/c = 12 inches for per inch stitch
1 Needle Chain Stitches = 5 inches for per inch stitch
Feed of the Arm M/c = 11 inches for per inch stitch
Button Hole = 24 inches for per inch stitch
Bar take M/c = 26 inches for per inch stitch
Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes) = 3 inches thread
Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes) = 6 inches thread


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26. A shirt having 104 inches 4 Threads Over lock stitches, 52 inches Flat lock stitches, 20 inches 1 Needle
Chain stitches, 15 inches Single Needle Plain Machine stitches, GSM is normal, find out its thread consumption in
meters?
Answer: {(104 x 19) + (52 x 32) + (20 x 5) + (15 x 2.75) + 10%}/39.37 = 106.71 Meters. (39.37 inches = 1 Meter)
27. Suppose, we want to buy thread cones with 2000 meters thread, now figure out how many cones do we need
to stitch 3000 pcs of garments, per garment’s thread consumption 106.71 meters?
Answer: 106.71 x 3000/2000 = 160 cones.
You can also visit following website that will provide you excel files for calculating thread consumption of different
product.
http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-consumption/anecalc/
F. Carton Consumption & Pricing:
28. A carton with Length 60cm, Width 40cm& Height 30cm, figure out a Cargo Measurement for 208 cartons?
Answer: 60 x 40 x 30/ 1000000 x 208 = 14.976 CBM Formula: length X width X height /1000000 X carton quantity


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29. A carton of7 Ply, Length 80cm, Width 60cm, Height 30cm, total carton 120 pcs, find out carton
measurement in square meter ?
Answer: (80 + 60 + 6) x (60 + 30 + 4) x 2 / 10000 x 120=329Square Meters. Formula: (length + width + wastage) X
(width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton quantity. (You can avoid wastage, if you wish)
30. 3 ply carton’s per square (100 x 100) meter’s rate is USD 0.20, carton’s length is 60cm, width 40cm, height
30cm, total required carton quantity is 150 Pcs, figure out price of total cartons?
Answer: (60 + 40 + 6) x (40+20+4) x 2 / 10000 x 150 x 0.20 = 48.70 USD. Formula: (length + width + wastage) X
(width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton quantity X price
G. Poly Bags Consumption & Costing:
Most used poly bags in garments industries are PP (polypropylene) poly bags, PE (polyethylene) & LDPE (low density
polyethylene), HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc. Basically there’re three different ways to measure poly bags
thickness.
(1) Mil (1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch)
(2) Microns (1 microns = 1/1000 of a mm)
(3) Gauge (1 gauge = 1/100000 of an inch)


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Conversion, 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 gauge.
Note: Gauge is the most used system of counting poly bags’ thickness worldwide.
31. A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly thickness 150 gauge. Now find out
weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?
Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300} = 22.91 KGs for 1000 pcs
Formula: KGs needed for 1000 pcs poly bags = {(length + half flap) X width X gauge / 3300}
Now, if we want to find out weight of 1 pcs poly bag, then we needdivide the outcome with 1000.
Answer: 22.91 / 1000 = 0.023 KGs. (1 pcs poly bag weight)
Note: You see, I count flap measurement in half (1.5 inches) during calculation because flap is single layer&length,
width of a poly bag is double layer.
32. Now the question is 1 lbs. polymer price is 0.40 USD, find out cost of 22.91 KGs polymer?
Answer: 22.91 x 2.2 x 0.40 = 20.16 USD. (1 KG = 2.2 lbs.)


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33. A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly thickness 150 gauge. 1 lbs.
polymer price is 40 taka. Now find out cost of 1 pcs poly bag?
Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300 / 1000 x 2.2 x 40} = 2.01 taka
H. Button Linear & Button Counting:
34. Figure out ligne of a button with 10mm Dia?
Answer: 10 / 0.635 = 15.75 ligne or 16 L (L means ligne) Formula: Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or 1 / 0.635 x button
Dia in mm
35. Per shirt has 6 buttons, total order quantity 3456 pcs, figure out total button quantity in GG ?
Answer: 6 x 3456 / 1728 = 12 GG. Formula: number of buttons per product X order quantity / 1728 (1 GG = 1728
pcs)
Note: We need add some extra quantity (minimum 3%) while counting buttons for an order to save us from risk in case
of shortage due to defective & damaged.
Memorize the information below regarding button.
Button Linear or Button Length: 1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm, 1 ligne = 0.635 mm


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12 Pcs = 1 Dozen, 12 Dozen = 1 Gross, 12 Gross = 1 GG (1728 pcs).
I.Threads Length Calculations:
36. If I question you to figure out length of 2 lbs. (pound) single cotton threads? Then the question will be so
tough for few of us to solve. So, we first need know information below. Then the question will be so nice & easy.
1 lb.single cotton thread length = 840 yards
1 lb.single linen / viscose thread length = 300 yards
1 lb.single wool thread length = 300 yards
1 lb.single silk thread length = 840 yards
1 lb.single acrylic thread length = 560 yards
Answer: 2 x 840 = 1680 yards. (As we knew from above information that 1 lb. single cotton thread length = 840
yards)


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37. Figure out Length of 2 lbs. 16s (sixteen single) cotton thread?
Answer: 2 x 16 x 840 = 26880 yards. (1 lb. single (1) cotton thread length = 840 yards)
Therefore, Sixteen Single (16s) = 16 x 840 = 13440 yards = 1 lb.
Note: The count of yarn (thread) will be increased, then the thickness of yarn will be decreased. Just practice it more &
more to make you perfect.
J. Sweater Gauge Counting& Yarn Consumption:
In knitting, the word gauge is used both in hand knitting and machine knitting. Technical abbreviation is GG, refers to
"Knitting Machines" fineness size. In both cases, the term refers to the number of stitches per inch, not the size of the
finished garment. In both cases, the gauge is measured by counting the number of stitches (in hand knitting) or the
number of needles (on a knitting machine bed) over several inches then dividing by the number of inches in the width
of the fabric.


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See image below to know how to count Knitting Gauge.
38. Now question is - A sweater has 50 stitches on 4 inches fabric, find out its gauge (GG)?
Answer: 50 / 4 = 12.5 (That means the sweater belongs to 12 GG).
Otherwise, we can memorize the information below to identify sweater’s knitting gauge by yarn (Count and Ply). I’m
not a sweater expert, you can discuss with expert for more information.(If you need).


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Sweaters GG
Gauge Count & Ply Count & Ply
3 GG 2/16 4 plies
5 GG 2/16 3 plies
7 GG 2/16 2 plies
10 GG 2/32 3 plies
12 GG 2/32 2 plies 2/16 1ply
Note: To figure out yarn consumption of sweater, you’ve to add minimum 10% wastage. See calculation below as
reference.
39. Sweater’s color is white, order quantity 5000 pcs, yarn consumption in dozen 11.5 lbs. how many lbs. of
yarn you need for this order?
Answer: 11.5 / 12 x 5000 + 10% = 5324 lbs. Formula: yarn consumption dozen / 12 x 5000 + 10% (wastage)


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K. Garments CM (Cost of Manufacturing) Calculation:
CM means Cost of Manufacture. It actually means Manufacturing Cost of 1 Dozen (12 pcs garments). To calculate
Manufacturing Cost of 1 dozen knit garments of a specific order we’ve to know the topics below:
1. Monthly expense of factory,
2. Total running machine,
3. Machine quantity to execute the layout of mentioned order,
4. Daily (8 hour per day) productivity of the order,
5. Dollar conversion rate (if monthly expense is different from USD)
Suppose,
Monthly Factory Expense = 50,00,000 Taka
Working days of the month=26 days
Daily Factory Expense: 50,00,000 / 26 = 1,92,307.69 Taka Formula: monthly factory expense / working days in the
month
Total running machine quantity =150 Machines
Daily Expense of 1 Machine: 192307.69 / 150 = 1282.05 Taka Formula: daily factory expense / total running machine
Machine quantity of layout for mentioned order = 27
Daily cost for the layout: 1282.05 x 27 = 34,615 Taka Formula: daily expenditure of 1 machine X Machine qty for the
layout
Suppose,
Hourly production of the layout = 125 pcs
Normal daily working hour=8hours


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So, Daily Production of the layout: 125 x 8 =1000 pcs Formula: hourly production of the layout X normal daily
working hour
Manufacturing cost of 1pc: 34615 / 1000 = 34.62 Taka Formula: daily cost for the layout / daily production of the
layout
So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments):34.62 x 12 = 415.44 Taka Formula: manufacturing cost of 1pc x 12
Dollar conversion rate: 1 US Dollar = 77.30 Bangladeshi Taka.
So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments) in US Dollar: 415.44 / 77.30 = 5.37 US$
20% profit would be added with CM: 5.37 x 20% = 1.07 US$
So, Final CM = 5.37 + 1.07 = 6.44 US$.
L. Garments Costing Formula:
For garments costing, one needs to have clear concept of the raw materials’ price & CM calculation of garments.
Following one is the sample costing sheet of knit garments. If you need this sheet in excel file, then mail me. This sheet
will give you a basic clear concept regarding garments costing. As garments costing depends on various aspects, so
there is no specific formula for garments costing except this sheet.
COST SHEET
BUYER DATE
STYLE DELIVERY FOB
DESCRIPTIO N Boy's T-shirt QUANTITY 4000
FABRICATION 100% Cotton Single Jersey, 180 GSM.
SIZE 134, 140, 146, 152, 158, 164.
FACTO RY
YARN 100% Cotton 30/1 (Carded)
GSM 180


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Item Consumption Unit Price Price
100% Cotton Single Jersey,180 GSM Yarn 4.0 $ 4.55 $ 18.20
Knitting 4.0 $ 0.25 $ 1.00
Dyeing 4.0 $ 1.13 $ 4.52
100% cotton 1 x 1 Rib, 200 GSM, (Collar + Cuff) 1.6 $ 0.38 $ 0.61
$ -
$ -
TOTAL (Fabric in Dozen) $ 24.33
Main Label $ 0.20
Care Label $ 0.15
Accessories, trims, packing, embellishment.
Sewing Thread $ 0.60
Drawstring $ -
Eyelet $ -
Elastic
Twill Tape $ -
Print $ -
Embroidery $ -
Washing $ -
Button $ -
Zipper $ -
Hanger $ -
Hang Tag $ 0.30
Poly $ 0.50
Carton $ 0.80
Other $ 0.10
Total Accessories Cost in Dozen $ 2.65
Lab Test $ 0.50
Lab test, Fabric, Accessories, Garments Cost in dozen $ 27.48
CM per Dozen including Profit 20% $ 5.50
Commercial Cost 3% $ 0.82
Buying House Commission 5% $ 1.37
Total Price per Dozen $ 35.17
Per Piece FOB Price $ 2.93


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I have so many questions to ask. I’m leaving those upon you. Make questions & solve them by yourself. It’s time to say
you good bye. Let me finish here today as I have many things to do now. Sorry, I can’t revise my writings due to lack
of time. I beg your pardon again if anything wrong & boring. See you soon with so many questions & answers again.
Wish you best of luck.
THE END

Major Formula on Garments for Beginners

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