The document discusses various documents and approvals involved in the apparel merchandising process. It describes tech packs, specification sheets, fabric consumption calculations, thread consumption calculations, proto samples, and color approvals. The key steps are analyzing tech files to prepare costing sheets, negotiating prices with buyers, getting approvals on materials, proto samples, and colors before bulk production. Virtual prototyping is also mentioned as an emerging technique to communicate designs digitally.

1. Presented by Ravikeerthi Rao
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2. Documents
Documents we get from the buyers are:
 Manuals/ work instruction
 Tech file
 Spec sheet
 Reference sample
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3. Documents
 What is the next step ?
 The merchandiser :
 analyses the T/F and the Reference sample,
 prepares the costing sheet, and
 quote an initial price to the buyer.
 This price is based on :
 the estimated production and material costs, but
 is also influenced by how much the customer is expected
to pay.
 https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282604549_Cost_Analysis_in_Garment_I
ndustry 3

4.  The merchandiser negotiates with the buyer
until a price is finalized which is agreeable to
both parties.
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Price Negotiation

5. Specification Sheet /spec sheet
 A specification sheet contains the measurement
details of a particular style that is needed to
prepare the pattern.
 Some specification sheets also provide the
measurement gradation between sizes and give
the detailed size gradation for the garments.
 However, it does not say other details that goes in
to apparel style detailing.
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6. Specification Sheet /spec sheet
 Example of a garment specification sheet.
 As you can see on the image the measurement spec sheet
only reveals on measurement parameters.
 This sheet only helps in creating the garment patterns and
sample development.
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7. Tech Pack
 Think of a Tech Pack as the blueprint for each
garment.
 Just as a builder would never just start building a
house without a detailed plan, a designer should
never produce a garment without a detailed Tech
Pack.
 The Tech Pack tells the producer (factory) all the
information that’s needed to successfully transform
your design into a product that’s exactly how
designer envisioned it.
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8. What is a Tech Pack ?
 Tech Pack is a detailed instruction to create apparel
starting from scratch.
 Buyer must specify fabric details, washing and wash
care, prints, labeling, packaging, – every small and
important detail she can provide to a clothing
manufacturer to make sure her production piece
comes right.
 This gives complete information about the garment
style to clothing manufacturer and will reduce time to
produce and minimize costly errors and oversights.
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Tech Pack

9. What to look in the T/F
 Rendered illustration – flat sketch ( front view – back
view – 2D)
 Fabric quality – GSM, Composition, Structure, etc
 Color combo – various color options of the garments
 Stitching & construction detailing (both front and
back and close ups on features)
 Graphic /print detailing including print type,
placement & Pantone number (style dependent)
 Embroidery/appliqué /other embellishment detailing
 Washing / Special finishes requirements
 Trims & packaging details
 Branding details – Labels & Tags
 Graphical measurement details with spec sheet
pointers.
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10. What to look in the T/F
 Careful study & understanding of Tech Packs will:
○ reduce errors in production,
○ reduce issues with communication, and
○ ultimately can save you tons of money and
frustration.
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11. Fabric consumption
 Fabric cost bears approximately 40% to 45% of
the total cost of any garment. So calculation of
correct fabric consumption is very important.
 In most of the Indian apparel factories the fabric
consumption is calculated by pattern masters.
 Average fabric consumption depends on nature of
the fabric, like tubular or open width fabric,
whether fabric is solid colored, check or stripe or
any specific design repeat required.
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12. Fabric consumption
 Consumption is also calculated using CAD.
 When buyer gives the enquiry along with the tech-
pack, merchandiser will give the tech-pack to the
CAD department for marker preparation.
 From the tech-pack the CAD department will
develop the pattern for base size e.g. M size by
using the measurement sheet provided and
calculate the consumption.
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13. Fabric consumption
 Technicians manipulate pattern images on
computer screens and experiment with various
configurations to determine the best fabric
utilization (and reduce the consumption).
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14. Fabric consumption
 Computerized marker making is :
 more accurate ,
 provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation,
marker efficiency,
 reuse of previously made markers, and
 shortest response time.
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15. Fabric consumption
 Development of marker is a time consuming
process since costing should be submits to the
buyer within the given time frame.
 Determining the consumption by using CAD is
time consuming and hence merchandiser follows
some mathematical methods to calculate the
fabric consumption.
 For knitted fabric consumption following formula is
suggested for calculation of fabric consumption.
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16. Fabric consumption
Fabric Consumption Calculation Formula:
 To find out the apparel weight or fabric
consumption, we should apply the following two
formulas.
 By adding equation- (A) and equation (B), we will
get the required fabric consumption for round neck
t-shirt.
 Here,
 S.A means Seam allowance,
 T.L means Total length,
 H.A means Hem allowance,
 S.L means Sleeve length.
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17. Fabric consumption for T-Shirt”
 Fabric consumption calculation (A in Kgs)
[{S.L + T.L + (2 × S.A) + (2× H.A)} × (Chest + S.A)] × G.S.M × 2
……………………………………………………………………......………
10000
 And,
 Round neck collar fabric consumption calculation, (B in
Kgs)
{(Collar width + S.A) × (Neck round + S.A) × G.S.M × 2}
…………………………………………....……………………
10000
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18. Fabric consumption
For Polo, the difference is the collar & the placket.
 Flat knit collar fabric consumption (2×2 Rib fabric),
{(Collar width + S.A) × Neck round × G.S.M}
………………………………………………… …..…
10000
 N.B: We have to multiply by 2, because flat knit
collar is single layer fabric.
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19. Fabric consumption
 And,
 Flat placket fabric consumption calculation (Pique
fabric),
{(Placket width + S.A) × (Placket length + S.A)
× G.S.M × 3}
……………………………………………………
……...……..… …
10000
 N.B: There is 3 or 4 fold in placket. As a result, it is
multiplied by 3 or 4.
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20. Sewing thread consumption
 Sewing thread consumption calculation is one of
the most important factors in apparel
merchandising.
 Sewing thread consumption can be calculated by
following four methods:
 Stitch and unravel method.
 Stitch and measure method,
 Arithmetic method,
 Using software programme.
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21. Sewing thread consumption
1. Stitch and Unravel Method:
 In this method, at first the fabric is first sewn up to
a standard length say for 10cm or 20cm. then the
stitched sewing thread is unraveled fully and then
the length of the sewing thread is measured. This
is more time consuming method.
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22. Sewing thread consumption
2. Stitch and Measure Method:
 In case of this method, a standard length of
sewing thread is taken or marked; say for
example, 5 meters or 10 meters. Then it is sewn
fully till the sewing thread is finished or the mark is
reached in the sewing needle. Now, measure the
length of the stitch length.
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23. Sewing thread consumption
3. Arithmetical Method:
 In this method, sewing thread requirement may be
calculated using the parameters like stitch length,
stitch width, stitch depth or height and stitches per
inch or cm.
Sewing thread consumption,
= {(Stitch length + stitch width + stitch depth) ×
stitch per inch or cm}
 But this method is difficult for stitches where
multiple sewing threads are used.
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24. Sewing thread consumption
4. Using Software Programme:
 The sewing thread software programme is used to
calculate the sewing thread requirement in an
effective way.
 Sewing thread requirement can be quickly and
easily can be calculated without much effort.
 All one needs to do is just enter the required seam
positions that are to be calculated and the
respective parameters.
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25. Approval Process
 Through the T/F (Bill of Material - BOM) we will get
to know the list of all the materials to be used in
the garment.
 Most of the cases, i.e. except in the cases of
nominated vendors, we need to develop these
materials locally.
 Merchandiser need to get the approvals
/confirmation from the buyer for all these materials
before proceeding for the bulk production.
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26. Proto / Fit Sample
 One of the important approval is of Proto / Fit
Sample.
 In the T/F the designer put all the information
that’s needed to successfully transform her design
into a product exactly how she envisioned it. It is
in 2D format (in paper).
 Proto is the first stage, where the factory will
transform her design into a product (in 3D form).
 Through the Proto sample the designer will able to
compare and see what she has envisioned is
possible or not in 3D.
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27. Proto / Fit Sample
 One of the major challenges for any fashion
company is ensuring that the fit of a garment is as
close as possible to its target customer.
 In most cases, this implies providing a sample to
the client for a fit session.
 Retailers and brands use human fit models to fit
sessions.
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28. Proto Sample
Why Proto Sample?
 Ensures manufacturer and apparel brand are on
the same page
 Leads to more accuracy and fewer rejections
 Saves time and money
 Protects against misinterpretation on style
detailing
 Expressively improves efficiency and productivity
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29. Proto Sample
 Proto sample is made in available similar fabrics
but in the actual measurements and specifications.
 in one size, as specified by the buyer.
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30. Sampling Section
 Sample garments are
 usually produced by a small section called
sampling section ,
 supervised by the pattern master and/or
designer, and,
 This section has an important role in determining
the order booking.
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31. Importance of Proto to the factory
 By making this sample the factory learn about the:
 style,
 its construction,
 machine requirement, and
 processes to be used to make quality product.
 While making this sample the factory can also
learn what are all difficulties may come at the time
of bulk production and suggest the alternate
options to the buyers / get their approval to avoid
the problem at later stage.
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32. Importance of Proto to the factory
 During the development of Proto sample the patterns may
be altered and perfected to rectify faults discovered in the
T/F and / or to reduce the material consumption / CMT.
 Minor modifications to the design / pattern may also be
done to allow existing machinery to be utilized, to avoid
the purchase of special type of machine, which the new
style feature requires and the factory does not possess.
 At the same time the suitability of the intended fabrics and
process is established for mass production.
 At the sampling stage, the quantities of fabric and
trimmings are re-established (to place the order for the
same).
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33. Proto Sample – what is checked
 The Proto sample is scrutinized to evaluate
whether they fit in with the overall picture the
company wants to present in this collection /
theme.
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34. Proto Sample – what is checked
 The application of linings and interlinings, padding
and fastenings
 Technical aspects of sewing, such as :
○ Stitch type
○ the quality and structure of the seams,
○ reinforcement of edges, and
○ securing of pockets and different parts.
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35. Proto Sample – what is checked
 Depending on the machinery and the skill of a factory’s
sewers, production quality can vary greatly.
 By analyzing the Proto, one can assess the
Technological capability of the factory and what it can
or cannot produce.
 Buyer may not choose your factory based solely on
the lowest price, but she will also want to evaluate
how well you can execute her actual design(s). Proto
comes handy for this assessment.
 And hence, in many cases, the order is confirmed after
Proto sample.
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36. Virtual prototyping
Today, apparel manufacturers are under pressure to reduce time to
market and optimize products to higher levels of performance and
reliability.
With technological advancements it is very easy to communicate
with buyer at very low cost and within very short period of time even
at sampling stage.
Proto typing is first stage where only aesthetics are judged in
sample; hence virtual prototyping is effective and time saving way
to communicate with buyer without sending physical sample.
Virtual prototyping is a technique in the process of product
development.
Virtual prototyping is an emerging technology in today’s rapid
changing world
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37.  What are the other approvals:
 Fabric Quality
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38. Fabric Quality approval
 The fabric greatly influence the character of
clothing and hence, the quality & type of fabric
selected based on its possible end-use.
 Pattern, Structure & Surface Texture, weight
(GSM), etc. has to be approved by the buyer first.
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39. Fabric Quality approval
GSM:
 The amount of raw material used to make a fabric
is reflected by the weight or the GSM (gram/sq
meter) of the fabric.
 For the same variety of the fabric as the GSM
increases, the cost increases.
 However, when the yarn becomes very fine, the
cost of spinning and weaving supersedes the role
of GSM.
 So even when the GSM is similar, the cost of
fabric with finer yarns is more.
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40. Fabric Quality approval
COUNT OF YARN:
 The yarn cost will depend on the count of the yarn—the finer
the yarn, the more expensive it can get.
 Combed yarns are more expensive than carded yarns
because yarn realization is only about 70 percent due to the
removal of short fibers, while it is almost 88 percent in the
case of carded yarn.
 All finer counts above 40 are generally combed yarns.
 The sizing cost also depends upon the count of the yarns. As
the count becomes finer, the size and chemical cost
increases because better quality size and chemicals are
required for better strength.
 http://sourcemygarment.com/blog-posts/fibres-to-fabric-the-cost-of-fabric-production
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41. Fabric Quality approval – why?
 Yarn used can be Combed or Semi-combed or Carded,
where in the combed yarn is finest quality and the
results in fine & smooth output of fabric.
 The yarn quality varies from mill to mill and is the price.
 The variation in yarn quality is also because the cotton
might from different regions, having different
properties.
 The desired fabric weight can be achieved with
different combination of yarn type, count, gauge but
they will have distinctive effect on the quality of the
fabric (and on cost of the fabric).
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42. Colour Approvals
 In order to get the conformation about bulk
producibility, merchandiser ensures the colour
communication, which includes :
○ Lad-dip,
○ desk-loom,
○ print-strike off,
○ knit down,
○ art work.
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43. Colour Approvals
Lab dip / yarn-dip / knit down
 A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a
colour standard.
 Lab-dips are developed in order to get
conformation that the colour standard given by
buyer is producible in production.
 Colour reference is in paper form. Lab-dip is done
to provide the visual aid on how colour will look
when it is dyed on approved fabric.
 Look of it is judged in fabric form at this stage.
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44. Colour Approvals
 Lab dips are reviewed in two ways either by visual
inspection or by using spectro-photometer.
 For visual inspection “light box” is used.
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45. Colour Approvals
 A light box is a box where the interior is painted a
neutral colourless grey (as to not skew the colour
of the dip) and has several options of light under
which you can evaluate your Lab dip.
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46. Colour Approvals
 Spectrophotometer is a technology gives values
(L, a, b, c, h and delta-E) which gives clear idea
that how much Lab-dip is closer to given standard.
 Some buyer gives approval on visual matching
while some follows the spectrophotometer
readings.
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47. Colour Approvals
 If some yarn is specified then dyed yarn is
submitted as Yarn-dip,
 while for knits,
 sometimes for dyed yarn merchandiser submits
Knit- down which may be developed by hand knit
or sample knitting machine.
 Knit-down is also used to check the appeal of
colour combination in y/dyed styles.
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48. Desk-loom:
 Desk loom basically a fabric made on sample weaving
machine, which can be operated by hand.
 Desk loom submission is necessary in order to get
review of the fabric which going to approve.
 Generally desk loom submitted for yarn dyed fabric.
 Mostly appeal of colour combination & weaving
structure is assessed here.
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49. Print strike off:
 The print strike off is developed to make sure that
print design given by buyer is producible in bulk.
 Problems associated while printing and other
issues are communicated with buyer.
 A test length of fabric specially printed in order to
check the pattern registration, pattern repeat and
the matching shades in the design.
 http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/communication-backbone-of-merchandising/
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50. Art work:
 Art work is another important aspects which need
to get approved from buyer.
 Art work contains the barcode stickers, waistband
tag, hand tag designs which is specified by buyer.
 This need to be submitted physically or picture of
them is sufficient depending upon buyer
requirement.
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51. Size Set or Jump Size Set Sample
 Size Set / Jump Set may be requested depending
on business needs.
 Sample should have all updates and corrections
as requested based on fit / proto comments.
 These samples helps in validation of
measurement chart & grading.
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52. Size Set Sample
 Pattern Grading is a process whereby patterns of
different sizes are produced from the approved
pattern / master pattern.
 This process can be performed either manually or
automatically by a computer.
 The patterns can be cut out and used to plan
cutting markers manually, if necessary.
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53. PP Sample
PP Sample is the short name of Pre-production sample.
 PP sample is made prior to starting bulk production after incorporating all
the comments received on Proto / size set sample.
 PP sample is made with actual fabric(bulk), trims and accessories of the
style in specified size (mostly in one size and all ordered colours).
 Factory takes final approval for style, workmanship, measurements,
trimming, material quality including, colour, prints & finishes on PP sample.
 If all meets specifications, the buyers will give the factory approval to move
to bulk production.
 Factory must maintain an exact copy of the PP for their records and utilize
during production, for in-line audit reference.
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54. PP Sample
 In most of the cases, the factory has to send the test
report to the buyer along with the PP sample
 PP Sample is the last chance the buyer have to double
check that everything is done correctly.
 Customer approvals and PP samples provide the
sewing factory with the confidence and guidance that
an agreement and expectation have been created with
the customer.
 In some cases, this sample is also referred as “Gold
Seal Sample”.
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55. Shipment samples
 The Shipment samples taken from the production is the
exact representation of the items that the factory going to
ship.
 These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the
buyer’s confirmation for shipment (may not be always).
 Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all
manners.
 They should be sent in actual packing with all labels, tags,
etc.
 Buyer may check these samples for everything or anything
and give green signal to ship the goods.
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56. Miscellaneous - Photo Sample
 Sample made specifically for Photography,
Advertising, catalogue, etc.
 Actual fabrics and trims are required for sample,
unless otherwise approved by the buyer.
 Samples must be in size requested (not always
the fit sample size)
 Samples are sometimes requested before fit
approval- samples must represent the most
current fit comments.
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57. 3D technology
 3D technology at the design stage can help
reduce cost and time-to-market, contributing to a
more efficient and profitable process by reducing
the number of samples required and their
associated costs.
 3D apparel design software eliminates the need
for trial and error in physical sample creation,
ensuring that any design fits right the first time
 (https://www.lectra.com/sites/lectra.com/files/document/lectra-white-
paper-3d-in-apparel-design-en.pdf)
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58. This PPT is part of seminar conducted at PSG College of Technology,
Coimbatore.
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