This document provides information about different cutting methods and knives used in fabric cutting. It introduces various fully manual and computerized cutting methods, including straight knives, round knives, band knives, die cutting, notchers, drills, laser cutting, water jet cutting, and plasma torch cutting. For each method, it describes the features, working principles, advantages, and disadvantages. The document is presented by a group of students and contains their names and student IDs.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
This presentation was made to have an elaborate sense of fabric spreading. Different types of fabric spreading and the pros and cons of different fabric spreading is illustrated into the presentation.
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of the fabric Each weft thread is fed , more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.Weft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple yarns, usually to produce interesting color patterns.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
This presentation was made to have an elaborate sense of fabric spreading. Different types of fabric spreading and the pros and cons of different fabric spreading is illustrated into the presentation.
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of the fabric Each weft thread is fed , more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.Weft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple yarns, usually to produce interesting color patterns.
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1. Welcome To Our Presentation
On
“Cutting method & knife”
Prepared For:
Jenifar Amman
Southeast University
Prepared By:
Group: 05
Batch: 13th -1
Department Of Textile Engineering
2. WE ARE…
Name Of The Student
ID.
Md. Ubaydur Rahman
2010000400039
Md. Salim Azad Didar
2010000400038
Md. Foisal Mridha
2010000400037
Md. Moniruzjaman Piash
2010000400034
Md. Naimul Islam
2010000400032
3. FABRIC CUTTING
To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut
out the garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of
cutting templates. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and
spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric
cutting.
Object:
To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the
dimension of the marker
Requirements Of Cutting:
Precession of cut
Clean edge
Infused edge
Consistency in cutting
Support of the lay
4. TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD
Fully Manual
Hand operated scissor
Manually Operated Power Knife
Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting
Notcher
Drill
Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
Computer controlled knife cutting
Cutting by Laser beam
Cutting by Water jet
Cutting by Plasma torch
5. HAND OPERATED SCISSOR
Features:
First & oldest method of fabric cutting
Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
Can be cut by scissor
Needs more time & contain high cost
Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric
6. STRAIGHT KNIFE
Features:
The elements of straight knife consists of:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. A base plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
Knife is driven by electric power
Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting
Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
Straight edge is mostly used
Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim
7. STRAIGHT KNIFE
Working Principal:
Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife
Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
Operator power drives the knife through the lay
The motor power needed is determined by
Height of the lay
Construction of the fabric
Curvature of the line being cut
Stroke of the blade
Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the
fabric
8. STRAIGHT KNIFE
Advantage:
Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to
another place
Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round
knife
Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any
angle
Disadvantage:
Some time deflection may occur due to the weight o the motor
Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
Sometime accident may happen
9. DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFE
Round
Knife:
Straight
Knife:
Wave knife
Straight knife
Notch knife
10. BAND KNIFE
Features:
Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter
11. BAND KNIFE
Advantage:
Used
when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts
such as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
Disadvantage:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high
12. ROUND KNIFE
Features:
Element of round knife:
Base plate & Electric motor
Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
Rotating circular blade
Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
Blade is circular
Blade is driven by electric power
Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm
13. ROUND KNIFE
Advantage:
Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multilayers (say 20-30 layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator
14. DIE CUTTING
Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses &
Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die,
Motor & Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts
15. DIE CUTTING
Working Principal:
Die
is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of
pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the
cutting pad in order that the fibers of the lowest ply are
completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required
placement of dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the
cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is
taken to cut fabric lay
16. DIE CUTTING
Advantage:
Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress
accurately
Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
Comparatively less time required
Best method of cutting knitted fabric
Disadvantage:
Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
High labor cost
To change the style quickly is impossible
Difficult to cut large components of dress
17. NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Features:
Special
type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
The notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape
18. NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric
Most useful to make consistency in notching
Disadvantage:
Only used to make notch
Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c
Time loss
Use of the m/c is limited
19. DRILL CUTTING M/C
Features:
Needed
to mark on the end of components of dresses especially
for pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for
long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so
that it can easy to find the marked place
20. DRILL CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially
for setting pocket & dart
Make the hole permanently for long time
Disadvantage:
Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting
pocket & dart
For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for
long time
21. COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING
Features:
This
method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high
speed
Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high &
blade is made of stainless steel
Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
memory
This m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system
22. COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING
Advantage:
Very fast cutting operation
Very active cutting by computer controlled system
Suitable for very large scale production
Speed of can be controlled
Intensity of accident is low
No need of marker
Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual method
Less labor cost
Disadvantage:
Very expensive m/c
Higher maintenance cost
Skilled manpower is required
If correct disc is not loaded in the computer, error
will be indicated
23. CUTTING BY LASER BEAM
Features:
This
method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using
a laser
Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm & high powerful
When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material
& cutting is done by vaporization
Fabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per min
Cutting head is controlled by computer
24. CUTTING BY LASER BEAM
Advantage:
Very fast cutting operation
Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head
is controlled by computer
As the fabric is cut by ray off high so that no need of sharpening
operation
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be fused
Very expensive cutting method
25. CUTTING BY WATER JET
Features:
This
system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle in a very
momentum
Pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch
Water is worked as like as hard & sharp knife which can easily cut
the fabric
A catcher in the bottom of fabric lays & it used with the same
speed & the same direction of water jet
26. CUTTING BY WATER JET
Advantage:
Higher cutting speed
There is no need of knife to cut fabric so that no need of
sharpening operations
Better to cut hard material
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for higher depth of lay of fabric
Cutting edge of fabric is wetted by water
Sometimes water spot should be seen in the fabric
Need of filtering & deionization of water
Need of controlling the sound of jet
27. CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCH
Features:
This
system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is
made by Argon gas
One or more fabric plies can be cut
Most useful for cutting single ply of fabric
Fabrics are cut by placing in a table, the surface (85%) of which
must be place in a perforated blanked place
Still now, this system is under research
28. CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCH
Advantage:
Automatic torch height control system
Automatic oxy-fuel gas control system
Automatic torch explosion system
Pneumatic band clamping
Standard auto-nesting package
Easily networked
Disadvantage:
Synthetic fiber not cut
Higher number of fabric lay is not cut
Need higher skill operator
Costly