Interlining is an essential accessory in apparel manufacturing, used between fabric layers to maintain shape, enhance appearance, and improve garment quality. It can be classified into permanent and temporary fusing types, as well as fusible and non-fusible interlining methods, each with its specific applications, advantages, and disadvantages. The document outlines the functions, uses, and types of interlining along with guidelines on fabric selection for linings, underlinings, and interlinings.

1. Interlining

2. Interlining
Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one kind
of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment.
 To keep the different component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind of
fabric is used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called
interlining.
 Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon,
polyester, wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its
properties i.e. shrink resist finish, crease resist finish.

3. PURPOSE AND USE
 These aims can be separated into three separate groups.
（1）TO MAKE Sewing Easier and To Increase Production
●Because of the speed of industrial sewing machines the
material must be in perfect shape before sewing so that the
machine operator does not have to try to reshape the piece
before or during the sewing time.If. before sewing ,interlining
is fused onto the material,it keeps it shape, therefore saving
time and labour.

4. （2）Retaining Shape and Improving Materials Appearance
 ●The use of interlining helps the garment material 's
appearance while at the same time retaining the garments
shape.
With the development of interlinings and better Fusing
press machines, the permanent fusing process was
Developed.
With this process, garments keep their shape no matter
how often they are worn or washed

5. （3）Making a Functional, Lasting ,Easy to Wear Product
 Using the Permanent press technique, everyone from the
producers and designers to the consumers is satisfied. The people
in production find the garments easier to sew, the clothing
designers can achieve shape and long term performance, while
the consumers get a good quality product that is easy to care for,
looks good and is easy to wear.
The basic aim of pressing is to make the garment look better for
longer periods of time. While still being comfortable.
Interlining reduces the occurrence of stretching, creasing and
wear.

6. FUNCTIONS OF INTERLINING:
 To support the garment.
 To control the shape of the garment.
 To control the area of the apparel.
 To reinforce the components of the garment.
 To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.
 To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the fabric.
 To improve garment performance.
 Uses of Interlinings: Interlining is generally used in collar,
cuffs, waist band, front facing of coat, outerwear plackets,
jackets, blazers etc.

7. TYPES OF INTERLINING
 There are mainly two types of interlining are as follows:
 Sewn interlining or non-fusible interlining.
 Fusible interlining

8. DIVISION OF FUSING:-Permanent Fusing and Temporary Fusing
 Interlining can be divided into 2 groups temporary and permanent.
 The purpose of temporary fusing is to make sewing easier and to reinforce the
stitching. The fusing intensity does not need to be strong as it is merely to
prevent puckering during stitching.
 Permanent fusing is used when the shape and style of the garment intact.
Therefore after washing and long periods of use, the interlining must stay fused.
If the fusing temperature, pressure and timing are not correctly set, the intensity
of the fusing will differ. Before fusing, the type of material and interlining being
used and the desired intensity of the bond must be considered.
(a) Permanent fusing must stay fused after washing or dry cleaning.
(b) Temporary fusing is simply to make sewing easier and can become separated
after the garment is completed.

9. NON FUSIBLE INTERLINING
 The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics
directly by sewing without heat and pressure is called non-
fuse interlining.
 This type of interlining is also called sewn interlining or
non-fusible interlining.
 For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of fabric is
treated with starch and allowed to dry and finally sewn
with main fabric.

10. Non fuse interlining is used for special
case.
The application field is given below:
 Non-fuse interlining use in “Flame Retardant”
apparel.
 It is used for making apparel for fire service
people.
 Specially used in embroidery machine.

11. Advantages of Non-fusible Interlining:
 To make flame retardant garments.
 Simple and easy technique.
 No elaborate machine is required.
 Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly
heated industry.
Disadvantages of Non-fusible Interlining:
 Quality is not good.
 Not suitable for large production.
 More time required.
 High work load & labor cost.

12. FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
 It is most used interlining. The interlining which
is used between two layers of fabrics by applying
heat and pressure for a certain time is called
Fusible Interlining.
 Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of apparel.
 Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke
garment”. It is very popular.

13. Advantages of Fusible
Interlining: To get similarities among
the apparel. Interlining gives the same
outlook of the apparel.
 Application process is very easy.
 It has high productivity.
 Fusing time is less.
 It is cheap.
 Performance is very good.
Disadvantages of Fusible
Interlining:
 High temperature is required.
 Special care is needed during attaching
interlining.

14. TYPES OF FUSIBLE
INTERLINING:
On the basis of resin coating and its
properties fusible interlining can be
classified as follows:
 Polyethylene coated interlining
 Polyamide coated interlining
 PVC coated interlining
 Polyester coated interlining
 Polypropylene coated interlining
 PVA coated interlining

15. Polyethylene Coated
Interlining:
 Polyethylene is used as
resin coating.
 The effect of varying the
density of the resin is to
give a greater resistance
to dry cleaning solvents
and a higher softening
point with increasing
density.
 This type of interlining is
used in collar, cuff of
shirt.
 The fabric attached with
this type of interlining
can be washed in water.

16. Polyamide Coated
Interlining:
 Polyamide is used as
resin coating.
 Poly-amides are very
widely used in dry
cleanable garments.
 High temperature
fusing is done for the
garments, which are
washed with water at
60ºc.

17. PVC Coated Interlining:
 Poly vinyl chloride is
used as resin coating
 This type is suitable
for both dry
cleanable and
washable garments.
 PVC coated
interlining is widely
used for making the
coat type garments.

18. Polyester Coated Interlining:
 Polyester is used as resin
coating
 Polyester resins are used in
dry cleanable and washable
garments because polyester
is less water absorbent
than polyamide.
 It can be used as in all
types of garments
 This is called ideal
interlining
 Available in market but
costly in price

19. Polypropylene Coated Interlining
 Polypropylene coated
interlining. The resin
is similar to the
properties of
polyethylene coated
interning
 Comparatively high
temperature fusing is
done.
 The fabric attached
with this interlining
can be washed with
water

20. PVA Coated Interlining
 PVA coated interlining. Poly vinyl acetate
is used as resin coating
 PVA coated interlining is not dry
cleanable and it has limited wash ability
 Low temperature and pressure is
required. Basically it is used between the
leather and fur materials.
 The resin is normally in the form of a
continuous plasticized coating on the
base fabric.
 This type is rarely used in garments
industry

21.  SELECTING & USING SUPPORTIVE
FABRICS
◦ LININGS, UNDERLININGS & INTERLININGS

22. Lining
 LINING -- a separate, but attached, supportive or
inner garment fabric or fabric construction which
conceals or covers the insidegarment construction.
 Garments may be fully or only partially lined;
completely or partially attached to the fashion
garment.
 A lining eliminates the need for time-consuming
seam finishes and reduces "wear and tear" on the
inside garment construction.
 It will lengthen the life and durability of a garment.
 A lining provides some body and support to a
garment, but it never takes the place of interfacing.
 It often makes the garment easier to wear over
other clothing—as in a jacket or coat; it can
eliminate the need for some under garmentssuch as
a slip--as in a dress or skirt.

23. Fabric Selection
 There are a multitude of fabrics suitable
for use as a lining. The deciding factors
include:
 1) type of fashion fabric (weight, fiber
content/method of care, hand or "feel,"
personal likes and dislikes)
 2) type and style of garment
 3) type of lining--partial or complete; and
how the lining will be attached

24.  Fabrics may be woven or knit; they should be able to "give"
and recover as necessary to accommodate body movement.
 The lining fabric should be durable, opaque, colorfast to
perspiration and body oils and the same care method as the
fashion fabric.
 Lining should match or harmonize in color with the fashion
fabric, and have a smooth surface texture to permit the
garment to be taken on and off the body easily.
 It is important that the lining be the same weight (a
lightweight polyester or microfiber jacket or dress) or lighter
weight (wool slacks or suit) and softer than the fashion
fabric so that it does not dominate the garment.
 Lining fabric should be preshrunk before using following the
same procedure you plan to use for the finished garment.

25. Purchasing Tips
 Pay very close attention to fiber content and
fabric weave as they provide some very
important clues to lining durability.
 If garment is to be worn close to the body--
i.e. dress--be sure lining is absorbent or
"breathable." This often eliminates some
synthetic linings made of polyester, nylon,
etc.
 Rayons, rayon/acetate blends or cotton may
be more comfortable. Purchase or invest in
the highest quality lining available

26. UNDERLINING
 UNDERLINING -- a supportive or inner garment fabric which "backs," or is
attached to, each major garment piece (jacket front, jacket back, sleeve, etc.).
 The underlining and fashion fabric function together as one piece throughout the
construction process. The entire garment or only parts of the garment may be
underlined depending on the garment design, fashion fabric and the chief
function of the underlining. Underlining can give support and shape, prevent
sagging and stretching, add crease resistance, provide evenness of color when
the fashion fabric is not opaque or firmly woven, and help create certain fashion
detail effects.
 It is not designed to take the place of interfacing. A combination of underlining
and lining maybe used in a garment. Underlining should be preshrunk. Use the
same grain as corresponding garment pieces unless a separate pattern is
included.

27. Fabric Selection:
 The weight of the underlining is usually
lighter, but compatible to the fashion fabric.
 Underlining and the fashion fabric must be
compatible in terms of care. Examples of
underlinings include voile, organza,
lightweight polyester/cotton blends, silk,
muslin, lightweight percales, batiste, fusible
tricot, and some commercial lining fabrics.
 Underlining should be preshrunk before
using.

28. INTERLINING
 INTERLINING --- a separate layer of fabric or fabric construction between the
lining and the fashion fabric used for many purposes. Interlining is usually cut by
the same pattern as the lining.
 In the case of foam, fleece or felt-type fabric which adds some bulk, lining would
need to be cut some larger to accommodate interlining. Interlining does not take
the place of interfacing.
 Fabric Selection: Some lining fabrics are backed with or come with interlining
substances: a metallic reflective finish, backed with wool, quilted, or napped-
backed lining fabrics, etc. Bulk often becomes a serious consideration; "warmth
without weight" is another. Interlinings must be compatible with all other fabrics
in the garment in terms of care.

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