Dezyne E'cole College. www.dezyneecole.com

1. GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
PROJECT ON

2. Project Report
on
Garment technology
At
Dezyne E’cole College
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole College
Towards
The Partial Fulfillment of The
Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design
NSQF Level-6,of NSDC
By
Geeta kumari
Dezyne E’cole college
2017-2018

3. I Am Geeta kumari Student of Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design, Dezyne E’cole College. I Would Like To
Express My Gratitude to Each And Every Person Who Has Contributed in Encouraging Me And Helping Me
to Coordinate My Project.
I Also Thank Dezyne E’cole College Who Provided Insight And Expertise That Greatly Assisted the Project. A
Special Thanks To My Teachers, Parents and Colleagues Who Have Supported Me at Every Step. Not To
Forget, the Almighty Who Blessed Me With Good Health Because of Which I Worked More Efficiently And
Better.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Geeta Kumari
2nd Year Fashion Design Diploma NSQF Level-
6 Of NSDC

4. www.dezyneecole.com
This Project Of Miss. Geeta Kumari Student Of Fashion Technology With Two Years Advance Diploma
Program Has Been Checked And Graded As
Thanks
Principal
(Signature & Seal)

5. SYNOPSIS
During My Course Of Study I Learned About Garment Technology .Than I Made A Different Types Of Garments And
Learned Different Types Of Seams And Stitches . After Learning All Of These Topics In The Field Of Fashion Design
After Gaining The Knowledge I was Completed This Project. Following Pages Will Include A detail View To All These
Topics

6. 1. Seam
2. Types of seam
- Plain seam
- Lapped seam ( also called Tucked seam )
-French seam
- Flat felled seam or run and fell seam.
-Mock French Seam
3. Stitch per inch
4. Stitch types
100 to 800
5. Seam types
- superimposed seam
- flat seam
- bound seam
- decorative seam
- edge neatening
- applied seam
- single ply construction
6. Bibliography
CONTENT

7. Project Report On
In this project we have to make a report specifying various basic classes of stiches in British
standard 3870 part one and the various types of seams as per British standard 3870: 1991.

8.  Seams
Seams is term which refers to the stitching line where two fabrics are stitched together. It is the basic building block of
a garment. They form the structure of the garment and help to create the garment. They are also used as a decorative
feature.
The stitching line along the seam is called the seam line. The seam allowance ( SA ) is the space between the fabric
edge and the seam line.
Seams should be carefully done for a beautifully finished garment. Knowledge of the seam finishes will enhance the
look of your sewn garment.
 Seams is suitable for yours seeing.
There are some things to take into consideration when deciding what seams to use.
 Types of fabric –
 “what kind of fabric is it?” is a top consideration. If it is a sheer fabric the seam finish you select will be very
different from what is will, if the fabric seam. A heavy weight Brocade cloth. A loosely woven cotton seam will be
finished differently from a rayon blend fabric seam. A lace cloth will have a different seam than a denim cloth.
 Seam placement –
 a curved seam will be differently treated from a straight seam. If it is exposed seam as in a pant, it will be
different from an enclosed seam as in a yoke or a collar.
 Sewing machine –
 what is your swing machine capable of ? What attachments do you have? Are also important if you have a serger
or a

9. Or at least a zig zag machine you have more possibilities than a simple straight stitch machine.
 Garment purpose and use
a child’s dress will need a more sturdy seam than a camisole top. A wedding gown will not have the same
seam finish as a biker’s gear.
1. Plain seam
2. Plain seam with a single stitch
3. Plain seam with double top stitch
4. Hairline seam
5. Lapped seam ( also called tucked seam )
6. French seam
7. Flat felled seam or run and fell seam
8. Mock flat fell seam ( also welt seam )
9. Corded or piped seam
10. Faced seam
11. Hemmed fell seam
12. Mock French seam
13. Searged seam
14. Slot seam
15. Counter seam
16. Butt seams
17. Sheet seam/line seam

10.  Plain seam
In a plain seam, two fabrics are joined together along
the seam line by a line of stitching. It is also called a
single needle butterfly stitch as once the seam is
made the seam allowances are pressed open to either
side of the seam line to look a butterfly.
This is the simplest and easiest seam to make. It can
be made by hand or machine. Straight stitches are
used to make this seam though sometimes a tight
zigzag stitch can also be used to make this seam used
to make especially for knit or stretch fabrics.
The advantage of a plain seam is that this seam does
not add bulk to the seam lines. But as it has only a
single line of stitch the strength of the seam is not that
great.
Plain seam

11. 2. Plain seam with a single stitch
A single top stitching seam, this seam is a strong seam as well as a decorative one.
3. Plain seam with double top stitch
double top stitching seam; this is decorative seam which also provides great strength to the
seam line.
4. Hairline seam
This is a type of enclosed seam which is mostly used for collars and other enclosed areas. The
seam allowances are not visible from the outside as it gets enclosed.

12. 5. Lapped seam (also called tucked seam)
This is a very useful seam when sewing with heavy fabric like suede,
artificial leather, felt. When sewing with heavy fabrics, as the edges
of these fabrics do not fray, you can create this seam by trimming the
whole seam allowance of the top piece. Now the bulk is eliminated
as there is no fabric to turn under.
6. French seam
This is the best seam for sheer fabrics. As this seam encloses the raw
edges in a fold, the raw edges are not seen from outside without
adding much bulk. This seam is usually done on straight edges but if
you clip nicely it can also be done on curves edges.
7. Flat felled seam or run and fell seam
Mostly used in sportswear, men’s shirts, jeans kids clothes, pajamas
etc.it provides adequate strength to the seam line. This seam can be
stitched inside as well as outside the garment.

13. 8. Mock flat fell seam (also welt seam)
This is seam which looks a lot like flat fell seam but is easier to make. Unlike the flat fell seam here the raw
edges is not turned under. So this seam will have exposed raw edges of the seams on he wrong side. Hence
it is better to be used with fabrics which do not fray or where the seam will not be seen. This is a great seam
for a bulky fabric like felt or synthetic leather.
9.. Corded or piped seam
In this seam a fabric covered cording is inserted between the seam lines. It is a decorative seam and is
mostly used in collars, cuffs, pockets and home decorating fabric.
10. Faced seam
A faced seam is usually used in the seams of armholes, necklines and waistlines. It creates a very good finish
to the seam line

14. 11. Hemmed fell seam
How to sew a hemmed fell seam
Make a plain seam. One seam side is trimmed to half of the other side. The other seam is turned
sown and hemmed by hand.
12. Mock French seam
this is a seam which can be used in place of French seam where
a French seam may not be possible like in a curved seam line,
for eg. Armhole of transparent dress. This will neatly finish the
seam line also.
How to sew mock French seam.
Unlike the French seam, here a plain seam with right side
together is made first lace the fabrics right sides together. Stitch
a plain seam along the stitching line. Turn in the edge of the
seam allowance of each seam ¼ inch. Edge stitch along the
folded edge, so that the raw edge is enclosed inside.
Mock French seam

15. 13. Serged seam
You need a serger or overlock machine for this seam. In this seam instead of a plain straight stitch the
serger stitch is used on the seams and the seam allowance is trimmed by the machine. This seam
gives stretch and flexibility to the seam.
This seam can be used under the following conditions
1. If it sis not important that seams are kept flat or open
2. For loose garment
3. On lightweight
4. When sewing with knits
This Sewing a Serged seam
Place right sides of the fabrics together matching the stitching lines. keep the fabric under the
needle. The serger will automatically trim the seam allowance and enclose the fabric edges in a
thread.
A 3 thread serged seam will give stretch to the seam and a 4 thread serged seam will give strength to
the seam. A3 thread serged seam is usually used for knit fabrics for its stretching property.

16. 14. Slot seam –
This seam which is similar to the lapped seam is used for its functional as well as decorative properties.
15. Counter seam –
A very suitable seam for heavy materials, in this both the raw edges are enclosed by both the seam
allowance along the seam line
.
counter seaw sewing a
Turn under the seam allowance of both the fabric pieces to the wrong side. Press place the wrong side of
the first piece of fabric on the right side of the second piece along the edges, keeping the seam allowances.
Pin in place stitch along the folded edge.
16. Butt seam –
The fabric edges are folded and joined together by a zigzag stitch or chain stitch. This is used when joining
seams where you do not want any bulk. For example when sewing lingerie. You can make this kind of seam
with the help of a sewing machine.

17. 17. Sheet seam/ linen seam –
This is a seam where we use an embroidery stitch to join the seams. It looks absolutely beautifully though
not as strong as the other seams the stitches can be set horizontally or slanting. Antwerp edging stitches,
Fishbone stitch, blanket stitch or herringbone stitch can be used in this manner joining the seams. These
stitches are called insertion stitches.
1. Finish the fabric edges.
2. Tack the edges of the two fabric ends with a buttonhole bar stitch.
3. Cut a strip of paper of 1 inch width and the length equal to the fabric edge.
4. Baste the edges of the fabric to the paper so that the distance between them is ½ inch.
5. Work the stitches between the fabric edges; interlacing, knots, twisting all work between the edges.

18. STITCHES AND SEAMS -
Stitches and seams are the basic elements of sewing, and national and international
standard have been developed for accurately classifying them.
STITCHES
The basic classes in British Standard 3870 part 1 are :-

19. Class 100 –
These are chain stitches formed from a needle thread
only and they are typically used for basting, felling and blind
stitching.
Class 200 –
Originally hand stitches, these are mostly formed by
single threads passed from one side of the material to the other
with each successive penetration of the needle. Various classes of
this stitch are used for saddle stitching and the prick stitching of
edges.
Class 300 –
These are also referred to as lock stitches because the
top and under groups of threads are interlaced to form the stitch.
The most widely used stitch formation in this class is 301, which is
that produced by a regular sewing machine. Stitch type 301 two thread-
lockstitch

20. Stitch type 401- two thread chain
stitch.
Class 400 –
Formed by two or more groups of threads, the loops of
which are interlaced and interloped, stitch no.401 is a chain stitch
formed from two threads and is widely used for knitted materials
because the stitch formation makes for good extensibility and
lateral strength.
Class-500
These are known as overedge stitches because at least
one group of threads cover the edge of the material. In this class,
stitch no. 504 is a three – thread overlocking stitch used for
assembling light weight. Knit and also for cleaning and finishing the
seam and hem edges of garments.
When the 401 chain stitch and the 504 overlock
stitch are sewn simultaneously they form what is called a five-
thread safety stitch where the chain and overlock stitches are not
connected This stitch combination is widely used for seaming
denim and cheaper gardes of trouser. Another class of safety stitch ,
sometimes called a mock safety stitch, is formed from four threads
where one or two of the overlock threads interlace with the needle
thread . This stitch class is used for assembling garments made
from light weight materials and sometimes for linings. Due to their
construction, safety stitched seams cannot be pressed open but
have to be pressed to one side which, with heavy weight materials,
is apt to create a bulky seam appearance.
Flat butted seam

21. Class 700 –
This is a single thread lock stitch similar to the 300 class, which has very limited applications
because of its inherent weakness.
Class 800 –
This class covers combinations of two or more stitch classes which are sewn simultaneously, like
the five thread safety stitch different versions of this class are used for the assembly of swimwear.
Stitch Per Inch ( SPI ) -
Perfect machine stitching is easy to achieve if you thread the machine properly and use the correct needle
and thread suitable for the fabric used. A perfect stitch depends on the delicate balance of pressure on fabric
action of the feed and tension on the stitch formation. The correct SPI or stitch per inch gives you a seam,
which is neither too tight nor too loose.

22. S1. No. Weight of the fabric Type of cloth Thread Size Needle
Size
SPI 2.5
cm
1. Light Muslin,Cambric
And other thin fabrics
50 9-11 14-20
2. Medium Shirting, poplins,
etc.
40-50 14 12
3. Medium
Heavy
Brocade,
corduroy
Light Woolen 40 16 10-12
4. Heavy
Upholstery
fabrics
Woollen 20 18 8-10
Stitch Per Inch ( SPI ) -

23. Class 1 ( Superimposed Seam ) -
This seam is constructed with a minimum of two components and is the most widely used seam
construction in this class. Among others, safety stitched and French seams are covered by this class.
The simplest seam type within the class is formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of material
on another. A variety of stitch type can be used on this type of seam, both for joining the fabrics and for
neatening the edges or for achieving both simultaneously.
As example of a superimposed seam with an additional component would be one that contained an
inserted piping and even her more than one construction is possible.
PIPED SEAM

24. Class 2 ( Lapped Seam ) -
The simplest seam type in his class is formed by lapping two pieces of material as shown. In practice, this
simple seam is not common in clothing because it causes problems with raw edges and at least one of
the edges must be neatened in a decorative manner. Where it is commonly used is in the joining of
panels in sails where a strong seams is achieved by using two or three rows of zigzag stitching. Sail
fabrics are very finely woven and fray very little.
Much more common on long seams on garment such as jeans and shirts is the so-called lap-felled seam,
sewn with two rows of stitches on a twin needle machine equipped with a folding device.
The type of raised, topstitched seam often used down skirt panels is also technically a lapped seam
although at the beginning of its construction it appears to be a super imposed seam imposed seam. It is
often referred to as a welted or raised welted seam.
lapped seam

25. Class 3 ( bound seam ) -
In this class, the seam consists of an edges of material, which is bound by another, with the possibility
of other components inserted into the binding.
A folding device turns the edges under and wraps the strip over the edge of the main fabric. Bias cut
strip would normally be used, unless the fabric has an element of stretch. A bound seam is often used
as a decorative edge and the binding may continue off the edge of the garment to provide tie ends .
Their development has given designers the scope to use a wide variety of complicated seam
construction, both functional and decorative . Examples in common use on underwear and leisure
wear and on skirts, jeans and ladies trouser. A common finished used on the neck edge of T-shirts and
also on the edges of men’s vests and briefs. Elastic has been includes in a sufficiently stretched state
to draw the edge of the garment into a snug fit. On all these seams, a stitch type would be used which
has two needles and incorporated a thread passing between the needle threads on the under side
and covering the raw edge of the fabric.
welted seam
COMMON BOUND

26. Class 4 ( Flat Seams ) -
In this class, seams are referred to as flat seams because the fabric edges do not overlap. They may be
butted together without a gap and joined across by a stitch which has two needles sewing into each
fabric and covering threads passing back and front between these needle on both sided of the fabric.
Knitted fabrics are most commonly used because the advantage of this seam is that it provides a join
that is free from bulk in garments worn close to the skin such as knitted underwear. The machine trims
both fabric edges so the fabrics, which might the have a decorative gap between them. Examples of
flat seams are shown.

27. Class 5 ( Decorative Stitching) -
This is the first to the two classes of seam which, in the old british standard, were not regarded as seams
at all and were given the name ‘stitching’. The main use of the seams is for decorative sewing on
garments where single or multiple rows of stitches are sewn through one or more layers of fabrics.
Twin- needle stitching with a ribbon laid under the stitches while shows four rows of
stitches. This type of multineedle stitching has further decorative possibilities if an attachment is added
to the machine which lays embroidery threads back and front under the stitches on the surface of the
fabric.
When multiple, parallel tucks are required, the original method is slow and potentially inaccurate
in the version shown here, the folder ensures the tucks are parallels all the tucks are sewn
simultaneously. The tucks must, however, be set to face one way or the other and a decision as to which
must be made in relation to the design of the garment.
DECORATIVE SEAM

28. Class 6 ( Edge Neatening ) -
This is the other seam class that was called a edge stitching. Seam type in this class include those where
fabric edges are neatened by means of stitches ( as opposed to finding with another or the same fabric)
as well as folded hem and edges. The simplest is the fabric edge inside a garment which has been
neatened with an over edge stitch, as shown.
At this stage it is assumed that the reader can interpret the construction through the use of
the shorthand type of diagram only .Numbers for stitch types, which might be used, have been included
so that the diagrams can be referred to again later when the reader is familiar with these numbers. A
dress or a pair of trousers in a woven fabric which has been neatened and then sewn up invisibly ( blind
stitched ).
The remaining two seam classed in the 1991 British Standard are an addition to the
original standard, added in the 1983 edition, to include seam types commonly seen in modern garment
construction. No general descriptive title has been given to either of them.

29. Class 7 -
Seam in this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of a garment part. They are similar
to the lapped seam except that the added component has a definite edges on both sides. Examples
would be a band of lace attaches to the lower edges of a slip, elastic braid on the edge of a bra as in and
inserted elastic on the leg of a swimsuit as in.
This is another instance where, by using two folders and a twin-needle machine, a
complicated construction can be completed in one step. Without such machinery, achieving a similar, let
alone identical, result would be very difficult.
applied seam

30. Class 8 -
The final seam class in the British Standard is another where only one piece of material need be
involved in constructing the seam. The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop a used on
jeans, raincoats, etc. this is shown. Also included in this class are belts themselves and two possible
constructions.
The use on belt loop of the stitch type mentioned before which has two needles and a
bottom covering thread ensures that the raw edges are covered over on the underside while showing
two rows of plain stitching on the top.
Sewing machine attachments, which fold fabric, have already been mentioned and others are
available which control or guide fabric and enable relatively unskilled operator to sew quickly and with
high level of accuracy. Small volume production is heavily dependent on skilled operators if the
manufacturing quality standards are to be high. These high standard will only be achieved at high cost.
enclosed seam

31. Bibliography
• Wikipedia
• Garment technology for fashion
designers
• Fashion design for women’s wear
• Images from reliance trends
• Images from v-mart

32. THANK YOU
Geeta Kumari
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design NSQF Level 6 Of
NSDC
Dezyne E’cole college
dezyneecole@gmail.com