The document discusses various accessories used in leather goods production. It describes different types of fittings like frames, rings, hooks, and hinges. It also covers different types of fasteners like buckles, snap fasteners, eyelets, studs, rivets, zippers, and Velcro. Other accessories discussed include linings, adhesives, threads, needles, and miscellaneous items like reinforcements.
1. Mahtab 1
Accessories.
Accessories play a vital role in designing and production of Leather goods. These have
the functional and decorative purposes: to open and close, to provide strength and
durability, to hold, to join, to stitch, to improve elegance and beauty, etc. It sometimes
acts not only to enhance the appearance of the product but used as a part and parcel of
that product. It gives strength and durability to the products. Some lists of accessories are
follows---
1. Fittings;
2. Linings;
3. Adhesives;
4. Threads;
5. Needles;
6. Other miscellaneous items.
1. Fittings: Fittings are manufactured from metals and metal wires coated with brass
or chromium or anodize in matt or high glossy or antique finish. Some are listed below---
1. Frames.
Normally it is used in making framed ladies bags.
2. Rings.
Usually used in handle making and as decorative purposes.
Various types of rings are available such as O-ring, D-ring,
triangular ring, square ring, rectangle ring etc.
2. Mahtab 2
3. Hooks.
It is normally used in shoulder bag’s handle.
4. Hinges.
Used in travel suitcases, brief cases, cosmetic boxes, jewel boxes
etc
5. Metal Angle.
These are used in the corner of the products to protect the
corner during usages.
6. Key Bars
It is usually used in key pouches. Several keys can be attached in
this key bar.
3. Mahtab 3
7. Fasteners: Some are listed below---
a. Buckles
These buckles are used for bag’s belt to adjust the belt
length.
Fig: Bag buckle Fig: Slide buckle
b. Snap fastener.
A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press
stud) is a pair of interlocking discs commonly used in
place of buttons to fasten clothing. A circular lip under
one disc fits into a groove on the top of the other, holding
them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snap
fasteners are often used in children's clothing, as they are
relatively easy for children to use. Snaps can be attached
to fabric by hammering (using a specific punch and die
set), plying, or sewing. For plying snap fasteners, there
are special snap pliers.
Male (Top), Female(Bottom)
4. Mahtab 4
Segma Snap
Cap and Socket Stud and Eyelet
Dot Fasteners
Socket and Cap Eyelet and Stud
c. Eyelets.
Eyelets are metal rings, usually made of brass, which serve as
reinforcement to a hole in leather, fabric or paper. The
etymology of the name is from the 14th century Old French word
oillet, meaning "little eye." Eyelets are metal rings with a flange
surrounding the hole.
One side of the eyelet has a barrel that is inserted through the gap
in the material; the other side has the flange that extends into the
barrel.
The barrel either rolls or spreads out, grabbing the material and strengthening the hole.
Eyelets used both practical and decorative purposes.
5. Mahtab 5
Components of Eyelet
A - Flange diameter
B - Length under flange
C - Hole size
D - Inside diameter of washer
E - Outside diameter of washer.
There are several things to take into consideration when selecting eyelets:
Size of the hole.
Thickness of the material.
Type of material -- is it lightweight or heavyweight material, or paper
How visible will the eyelet be? Is it being used for decorative purposes?
Eyelets are set using a variety of tools and machines. The simplest method is using a
hand setting tool and hammer. For setting a large quantity of eyelets uniformly and
quickly, there are machines available, from simple foot or hand press machines, to
pneumatic auto-feed light duty machines, to heavy duty setting machines.
Grommets----
Grommets are very similar to eyelets, because they are used to reinforce a hole; however,
grommets are typically used for more heavy duty material than eyelets.
What is the difference between a grommet and an eyelet?
There is a common misconception that the use of a washer with an eyelet constitutes a
grommet. While a washer can be used with an eyelet, there are important differences
between the two. Typically a grommet has a larger flange diameter in relation to the hole
size as compared to an eyelet. The larger flange makes a grommet stronger than an
eyelet.
6. Mahtab 6
d. Studs.
Of the several metal ornaments made for leather, the
most popular are the studs. They come in many
shapes and sizes of different colors. The versatile
dome or pointed dome shapes in gold and silver tone
metal are a great favorite among leathercrafters and
users. There are also star, heart and flower shapes
made in various colors.
Studs are made with two to five prongs on a cap. The
prongs can first be slightly pushed onto the leather in
a selected spot. This will leave dots where the leather
will be pierced. Take an awl or one prong thronging chisel and mallet pierce the leather at
the marked places. Then, push the prongs of the stud through the holes made by the awl
and bend them flat on the inside of the leather to hold them firmly in place.
e. Rivet.
A rivet is a permanent mechanical fastener.
Fig: Double cap rivet Fig: Solid rivet
8. Mahtab 8
f. Zippers
A zipper (British English: zip or rarely zip fastener) is a popular device for temporarily
joining two edges of materials. It is used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and
other bags, sporting goods, camping gear (e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and other daily
use items.
The bulk of a zipper consists of two strips of fabric tape, each affixed to one of the two
pieces to be joined, carrying tens or hundreds of specially shaped metal or plastic teeth.
These teeth can be either individual or shaped from a continuous coil, and are also
referred to as elements. The slider (runner) operated by hand, moves along the rows of
teeth. Inside the slider is a Y-shaped channel that meshes together or separates the
opposing rows of teeth, depending on the direction of its movement.
Components of a Zipper
The components of a zipper are:
1 - Top tape extension
2 - Top stop
3 – Slider (runner)
4 - Pull tab
5 - Tape
6 - Chain width (determines the number of the chain)
7 - Bottom stop
8 - Bottom tape extension
9 - Single tape width
10 - Insertion pin
11 - Retainer box
12 - Reinforcement film
13 -Teeth
9. Mahtab 9
Purposes of Zippers:
Increase the size of an opening to allow the passage of objects, as in the fly of
trousers or in a pocket.
Join or separate two ends or sides of a single garment, as in the front of a jacket,
dress or skirt.
Attach or detach a separable part of the garment to or from another, as in the
conversion between trousers and shorts or the connection / disconnection of a
hood and a coat.
Decorate an item.
g. Velcro
Velcro is a brand name of fabric hook-and-loop fasteners. It consists of two layers: a
"hook" side, which is a piece of fabric covered with tiny hooks, and a "loop" side, which
is covered with even smaller and
"hairier" loops. When the two sides
are pressed together, the hooks
catch in the loops and hold the
pieces together. When the layers
are separated, the strips make a
characteristic "ripping" sound.
Fig: Hooks (left) and Loops (right).
10. Mahtab 10
h. Belt Buckle
A belt buckle is clasp for fastening two ends, as of straps or a belt. There are numerous
types of buckle to choose from plain and fancy. Most of the various types are attached to
a belt in the same way.
i. Locks
There are many varieties of locks available to provide secure
means of closing leather goods or of closing and attaching
straps and handles. Generally pointed prongs projecting from
the back are used. We can fix this by cutting slits in the leather,
pushing the prongs through and bending them on to a backing
plate.
11. Mahtab 11
2. Linings: Linings are used as reinforcement materials in a wide variety of leather
goods. The uses of linings in leather goods are:
Mask the rough surface of split leather components;
Cover the defects of flesh side of the leather components;
Add sufficient strength to the components;
Match the colour of the articles;
Improve the elegant look of the articles.
Lining is done usually with fabrics, leather and synthetics:
Fabric Linings: Cotton and Silk Taffeta, Crape, Satin, and Moiré silk, Drill, Twill,
Concord etc;
Leather Linings: Suede, Splits and Skivers, Crust;
Synthetic Linings: Plastic, Rexene, Nylon and Flocked fabric (imitation suede)
linings.
3. Adhesive: An adhesive is a substance, which can hold materials together by surface
attachment. The bodies held together by adhesive are known as adherents while the
process of holding one adherent to another by adhesive is called ‘bonding’ and the final
assembly of two adherents and the adhesive is called bond or joint. There are two main
types of adhesion:
Specific adhesive: For surfaces such as metal and glass;
Mechanical adhesion: For bonding of leather goods, papers, textiles etc.
Commonly used adhesives in Leather Goods making are natural rubber adhesive and
synthetic rubber adhesive:
Natural adhesives of Vegetable origin;
Natural adhesives of Animal origin;
Elastomeric resins;
Thermoplastic synthetic resins, etc.
12. Mahtab 12
4. Thread: To provide optimal leather goods sewing performance, a thread must have
consistent size, strength, stretch and needle heat resistance. The thread selected for
sewing has to provide satisfactory appearance in the seam in both stitch formation and
colour match. Sewing threads are made from two types of fibres:
Natural fibres (cotton, silk and linen)
Synthetic fibres (nylon, polyester, rayon etc.)
5. Needle: Sewing of leather components and finished products are carried out by
sewing machine, which is fitted with a sewing needle. Some are listed below:
a. Reverse twist point (LR).
b. Twist point (LL)
c. Wedge point (P)
d. Cross point (S)
e. Diamond point (DI)
f. Reverse twist spear point ( VR)
g. Twist spear point (VL)
h. Round point with small triangular tip (SD1); etc.
6. Other miscellaneous items:
Reinforcements;
Cartridge / Drawing Papers;
Straw Boards;
Ply-wood/deal-wood;
Foam rubber sheets;
Crepe rubber;
Piping wire;
Pigments;
Bee wax;
Double face adhesive tape;
Brushes;
Glue container;