interlining and buton

1. Interlining
Interliningisbasicallyanythingusedbetween2layersof fabricto give more body.A fusible interliningis
thinlayermade fromwoven,knittedornon-wovenmaterial bondedmechanicallywhichwhenfused
withfabricpanel can give reinforcement,durabilityandcanalso stabilize andmakersewingwordeasier
while sewing
Always check before starting bulk
a. Dwell time
b. Roller pressure
c. Fuse line temperature
d. Fusing conditionlike thermostat setting
e. Bond strength
f. Surface appearance
g. DimensionL change
mechanism of fusing
General fusing recommendations
Always check before starting bulk
Machine checkup
Fusing procedure
Sewing Thread
All sewing threads begin as simple yarms. Twisting togetther
short fibers or continuous filaments produces these yams.
Two or more yarms are com – bined to make the thread.
There are various factor
Spun thread

2. Is made from cotton or polyester staple fibers that are spun
into single yarns and then two or more of these yarns are
plied to make a sewing thread. Spun threads are round
threads and have fuzz on their surfacing giving them a soft
hand and good lubricity characteristics.
Textured
Is
Types of Threads- Construction
Air Entangled Thread
Is made from continuous filaments of polyester that are
entangled as they pass through a high pressure air yet. This
yarn is then twisted, dyed, and wound on cones with lubricant.
Air entangled threads are used in everything from seaming flags
to heavy denim jeans.
Core spun Thread
Is made by spinning a wrap of staple cotton or polyester around
a continuous filament of polyester fibers. Two or more of these
single yarns are twisted together to form the thread. Core
threads have fuzz on their surface giving them good lubricity
characteristics and also a continuous filament core that
contributes to high strength and durability. When wrapped
with a cotton wrap, core threads have very good needle heat
resistance. When wrapped with a polyester wrap, core threads
have excellent chemical resistance and color fastness.

3. Monocord Thread
Is made from continuous filaments of nylon that have been
bonded together with very little twist so that they look like a
single cord of yarn. These threads appear to be flat and ribbon-
like, which provides a high degree of resistance to abrasion and
strength. Monocord threads are used in the manufacturing of
shoes and other heavy duty applications.
Monofilament Thread
Produced from a single nylon continuous filament. It is
translucent and can blend well with many colors. Since it is a
single filament, it may unravel easily if the thread is not locked
in the seam adequately. Most common use of Monofilament
threads is in quilting operations on quilts and blind stitch
operations for hems in apparel.
Spun Thread
Is made from cotton or polyester staple fibers that are pun into
single yarns and then two or more of these yarns are plied to
make a sewing thread. Spun thread are round threads and have
fuzz on their surfacing giving them a soft hand and good
lubricity characteristics. These threads have good sewing
performance with good dimensional stability.
Textured Thread
Is made from continuous filaments of polyester or nylon that
have been textured and then heat set to insure proper bulk
retention. These threads have high extensibility and good

4. elastic recovery. Textured threads are ideal for over edge, chain
stitch, and overstitch of the finished seam and offers good
seam elasticity for the garments like swimwear, children wear,
performance wear etc. textured threads are typically used in
the loopers of a serger or over locker.
Twisted Multifilament Thread
Made from continuous filaments of polyester or nylon that are
twisted together into a cohesive bundle and then pliced to
make the thread. They are then dyed, stretched, and heat set
to achieve the desired physical characteristics like abrasion
resistance and durability. These threads are used in
performance wear and automobile upholstery.
Types of the thread-Materials
Cotton Thread
Is readiy available in wide range of colors and is suitable for
light to medium weight cotton, Rayon and Linen fabrics. Avoid
using glzed or waxed quilting threads on sewing machine as the
finish will wear off and can cause serious tention problems.
Cotton thread is without stretch and is usually mercerized, a
finishing process that give strength, make it smooth, lustrous,
gives better affinity for dye and color fastness.
Polyester Thread
Is made from 100% polyester and is suitable for most of sewing
processes. It provides strength and elasticity for sewing on
fabrics made of synthetic, natural, or blended fibers. All-

5. purpose polyester thread is great for knit, stretch, and
permanent-press fabrics because of its stretch and recovery
and its non-shrinkage. Most polyester threads have a wax or
silicone finish helping them slip through the fabric with a
minimum of friction.
Rayon Thread
Is silk-like in appearance for decorative stitching, and appliqué
monograms. 100% Rayon is strong but fine, making it suitable
for machine embroidery.
Cotton wrapped Polyester Thread
Is an all-purpose sewing thread for sewing on knits or woven of
synthetic or natural fibers or blends where extra strength is
required. The polyester core gives strength and elasticity, the
cotton wrapping gives it a tough, heat resistant surface. This
thread requires a slightly larger needle, to keep the thread from
stripping the cotton wrapping from the polyester core.
Nylon Thread
Is a fine, soft, stretchy but strong thread for sewing light to
medium weight synthetics. Most important is its ability to
stretch and recover its sheen and filled-in appearance. This is
especially suited to nylon tricot. When sewing using nylon
thread it is important to loosen top tension slightly to
compensate for its stretchy nature.
Metallic Threads

6. Are speciallythreads that can add sparkle to apparel sewing but
are quite fragile. Not recommended for garments that will
receive rough or heavy use. Ideal for mechine quilting,
decorative stitching and satin stitching on appliqués. Metallic
thread is suitable for embroidery and cross stitch.
Silk Thread
Is strong thread for sewing on silk and wool. Its fineness makes
it ideal for basting all fabric types, as it does not leave holes
from stitching or imprints after pressing. Because of its
elasticity, silk is also suitable for sewing any type of knit. Silk
thread used in marking High Fashion expensive tailoring as it
can be molded along with the fabric in shaped areas.
Elastic Thread
Comes in various colors. These threads are great for stitching
any area that need to be elasticized.
Button
About Button
Button is a small round disc usually attached to an article of
apparel or garment in order to secure an opening, or for
decorative ornamentation. Buttoning is done by sliding the
button through a fabric with reinforced slit called button hole
or thread loop. Buttons are fashionable because they also
decorate and enhance look of apparel.
History and Origin of Button

7. During the ancient Indus Valley civilization ( circa 2008-2600
BC) and Bronze Age sites in China ( circa 2000-1500BC). Beads
were found to be in use to fasten body covering materials like
hide etc. Beads were used as ornaments for their decorative
and symbolic value rather than fasteners but gradually the use
modified to fasten layers of materials. The term is from the
French word, bouton, meaning a round object. Functional
Buttons with button-holes for fastening or closing clothing
appeared first in Germany in the 13th
century. They soon
become widespread with the rise of snug fitting garments in
13th
and 14th
century Europe.
Button Classification
- Shank button
- Self Shank button
- Two or four hole button
- Snap button
- Cloth buttons are created by embroidering or crocheting
tight stitches ( usually with linen thread) over a knob or
ring called a form.
- Mandarin buttons or Frogs are knobs made of intricately
knotted strings where they are closed with loops.
Buttons differ in
- Size ( ligne)
- Design Form ( round, oval, rectangular, triangular, square
etc.)
- Distance between holes and no. of holes

8. - Thickness ( height of button)
- The way their reverse side is made ( convex, concave or
flat)
- Materialwith which buttons are made ( Leather, Polyester,
Metal, Horn, Shell, Rubber, Ivory)
Button size
Button size are normally indicated by “ Ligne” from French
word meaning Line is a unit of length that was in use prior to
French adaptation of the metric system in the late 1700s and is
still used by French and Swiss wrist watch makers to measure
the size of watch movement, and is abbreviated with the letter
“L”. ligne is the internationally recognized standard. The
conversion of Ligne is 0.635, for example ligne 20 ( 20L) =
20*0.635= 12.70 mm. The measure indicates the distance of
farthermost corners or multi-angular buttons or easy to say it is
diameter of round buttons.
Stitch type and looping
The zigzag single chain stitch is the most common ( stitch type
107) for sewing buttons, but if thread tail is loose. Then this
thread tail can be pulled easily resulting in loose Button. Now
generally all buyers ask for lockstitch type ( stitch type 209)
Buttonhole
Functional buttons are normally paired with a buttonhole.
Alternately, a decorative loop of cloth or rope may replace the
buttonhole.

9. Buttonholes are made by a sewing machine. Buttonhole often
have a bar at either end. The bar is a perpendicular stitch that
reinforces the ends of a buttonhole. Button hole size is the
length from the bar to bar but the inside cut is for the button to
slide easily and stay secure. Too big or too small buttonhole cut
can restrict button to slide in or easily slip out of buttonhole.
Appropriate buttonhole opening will be button size (L) +
button thickness.
Cutting thread after sewing