Garment Seam and Stitch Types Guide

GARMENT
TECHNOLOGY
PROJECT ON
TanujaSahu
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design (NSQF Level-6 Of NSDC)
Dezyne E’cole College , www.dezyenecole.com

Project Report
On
Seam And Stitches
At
Dezyne E’cole College
Submitted To
Towards
The Partial Fulfillment Of The
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design
By
Tanuja Sahu
106/10,civil Line ,Ajmer
2017-18

Acknowledgment
I Am Tanuja Sahu Student Of Fashion Department Of 2nd Year Diploma Fashion Design Of Dezyne E’cole
College Would Like To Express My Gratitude To Each And Every Person Who Has Contributed In Stimulating
Suggestions And Encouragement Which Really Helped Me To Coordinate My Project .
I Also Thanks Dezyne E’cole College Who Provided Insight And Expertise That Great Assisted The Project.
Also A Special Thanks To My Teachers Parents And Colleagues Who Came Support Me At Every Step Not To
Forget, The Almighty Who Blessed Me With Good Heath Because Of Which I Worked More Efficiently And
Better.
Tanuja Sahu
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design
NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC

This Project Of Ms. Tanuja Sahu Student Of 2nd Year Diploma Fashion Design As NSQF Level 6, Of NSDC Has
Been Checked And Graded As
Thank You
Principal
[Seal & Signature]

Stitches and seams are the basic element of sewing, and national and international standards have been developed for
accurately classifying them.
British standard 3870:1991 classifies seams constructions under eight headings.
The simplest way to define the seams is to get preliminary taste of what it is, though each one of us is familiar with it. A formal
definition is a seam is the application of a series of stitch types to one or several thickness of material for part of seams.
The choice of seams type is determined by aesthetic standards, strength, durability, comfort in wear, convenience in assembly
in relation to the machinery available, and cost BS 3870: part : 1191, referred to above, allows for eight different classes of
seam, including some where only one piece of fabrics is involved.
Once familiarity with stitch types has also been established, the British standard stitch number as given in BS 3870: part 1 :
classification and terminology of stitch types can be used.
Synopsis

Content
1. Stitch per inch
2. Seams
3. Seams suitable for sewing
4. Seams type
5. Stitch class

Project Report On
In project We have to make A report specifying various basic classes of stitches in British standard 3870 part one and the
various types of seams as per British standard 3870:1991.

Perfect machine stitching is easy to achieve if you thread the machine properly and use the correct needle and thread satiable
for the fabric used. A perfect stitch depends on the delicate balance of pressure on fabric action of the feed and tension on the
stitch formation. The correct SPI or stitch per inch gives you a seam, which is neither too tight nor too loose.
Sr.No. Weight of the
fabric
Type of cloth Thread size Needle size Stitch-es per 2.5
cm
1 Light Muslin and thin
fabric
50 9-11 14-20
2 Medium Shirting etc. 40-50 14 12
3 Medium heavy
brocade,
corduroy
Light woolen 40 16 10-12
4 Heavy upholstery
fabrics
Woolen 20 18 8-10
Stitch Per Inch (SPI)

Seam is a term which refers to the stitching line where two fabric are stitched together. It is the basic
Building block of garment. They from the structure of the garment and help to create the garment. They are also used as a
decorative feature.
The stitching line along the seam is called the seam line. The seam allowance (SA) is the space between the fabric edge and the
seam line
Seams should be carefully done for a beautiful finished garment. Knowledge of the seam finishes will enhance the look of your
sewn garment.
Seams

There are some thing to take into consideration when deciding what seam to use.
Type of fabric -"What kind of fabric is it?” is a top consideration. If it is a sheer fabric the seam finish you select will be very
different form what it will, if the fabric is a heavy weight brocade cloth. A loosely woven cotton seam will be finished differently
from a rayon blend fabric seam. A lace cloth will have a different seam than a denim cloth.
Seam placement – A curved seam will be differently treated from a straight seam. If it is exposed seam as in a pant, it will be
different from an enclosed seam as in a yoke or a collar.
Sewing machine – what is your sewing machine capable of? What attachments do you have more possibilities than a simple
straight stitch machine.
Garment purpose and use – a child’s dress will need a more sturdy seam then a camisole top. A wedding gown will not have
the same seam finish as a biker’s gear.
Seam is suitable for your sewing
1. Plain seam
2. Plain seam with a single stitch
3. Plain seam with double top stitch
4. Hairline seam
5. Lapped seam (also called tucked seam)
6. French seams
7. Flat felled seam or Run and fell seam
8. Mock flat fall seam (also Welt seams)
9. Corded or piped seam
10. Faced seam
11. Hemmed fell seam
12. Mock French seams
13. Serged seams
14. Slot seam
15. Counter seam
16. Butt seam
17. Sheet seams/linen seam

2. Plain seam with a single stitch :-
a single top stitch seam, this seam is a strong seam as well as decorative one.
3. Plain seam with double top stitch :-
Double top stitching seam; this is a decorative seam which also provides great strength to the seam line.
4. Hairline seam:-
This is a type of enclosed seam which is mostly used for collars and other enclosed areas. The seam
allowances are not visible form the outside as it gets enclosed.
1. Plain seam:-
In a plain seam, two fabric are joined together along the seam line by a
line of stitching. It is also called a single needle Butterfly stitch as once the seam is made
the seam allowances are pressed open to either side of the seam line to look like a
butterfly.
This is the simplest and easiest seam to make. It can be made by hand or machine.
Straight stitch are used to make this seam though sometimes a tight zigzag stitch can also
be used to make this seam especially for knit or stretch fabrics.
This seam requires a seam finish for its exposed edges.
The advantage of a pain seam is that this seam does not add bulk to the seam lines. But
as it has only a single line of stitch the strength of the seam is not that great.
When sewing with heavy fabrics, as the edges of these of these fabric do not fray,
you can this seam by trimming the whole seam allowance of the top piece. Now the
bulk is eliminated as there is no fabric to turn under.
5. Lapped seam (also called tucked seam):-
This is a very useful seam when sewing with heavy fabrics like
suede, artificial leather, felt.

7. Flat felled seam or run and fell seam:-
Mostly used in sportswear, men’s shirts, jeans kids clothes,
pajamas etc. it provides adequate strength to the seam line. This seam can be stitch
inside as well as out side the garment.
6. French seam:-
This is the best seam for sheer fabric. As this seam encloses the raw
edges in a fold, the raw edges are not seen form outside without adding much bulk. This
seam is usually done on straight edges but if you clip nicely it can also be done on curved
edges.
8. Mock flat fell seam (also welt seam):-
This is a seam which looks a lot like Flat fell seam but is easier to make.
Unlike the flat fell seam here the row edge is not turned under. So this will have exposed raw edges of the seam on the wrong
side. Hence it is butter to be used with fabric which do not fray or where the seam will not be seen. This is a great seam for a
bulky fabric like felt or synthetic leather.
9. Corded or piped seam:-
In this seam a fabric covered cording is inserted between the seam line. It is a decorative seam and is mostly
used in collars, cuffs, pockets and home decorating fabric.
10. Faced seam:-
A faced seam is usually used in the seam of armholes, neckline and waistline. It creates a very good finish
to the seam line
11. Hemmed fell seam:-
Make a plain seam. One seams side is trimmed to half of the other side. The other seam is turned down
and hemmed by hand.

12. Mock French seam:-
This is a seam which can be used in place of French seam where a French seam may not be possible like
in in a curved seam line, for eg. Armholes of a transparent dress. This will neatly finish the seam line also.
Sew Mock French seam.
Unlike the French seam, here a plain seam with right side together is made first.
Place the fabrics right side together. Stitch a plain seam along the stitching line.
Press the seam open and then close.
Turn in the edge of the seam allowance of each seam ¼ inch. Edge stitch along the folded
edge, so that the raw edge is enclosed inside.
13. Serged seam:-
You need a serger or over lock machine for this seam. In this seam instead of a plain straight stitch the
serger stitch is used on the seams and the seam allowance is trimmed by the machine. This seam gives stretch and
flexibility to the seam.
This seam can be used under the following conditions
1. If it is not important that seams are kept flat or open.
2. For loose garment
3. On lightweight fabric
4. When sewing with knits
sew a serged seam
Place right sides of the fabric together matching the stitching line.
Keep the fabric under the needle
The seger will automatically trim the seam allowance and enclose the fabric edges in a thread.
A3 thread serged seam will give stretch to the seam and a 4 thread serged seam will give strength to the seam. a3 thread
serged seam is usually used for knit fabrics for its stretching property.
14. Slot seam:-
This seams which is similar to the lapped seams, is used for its functional as well as decretive properties.

15. Counter seam:-
A very suitable seam for heavy materials, in this both the raw edges are enclosed by both the seam
allowances along the seam line
Sew a counter seam
Turn under the seam allowances of both the fabric pieces to the wrong side.
Press place the wrong side of the first piece of fabric on the side of the second piece along the
16. Butt seams:-
the fabric edges are folded and joined together by zigzag stitch or chain stitch. This is used when joining
seam where you do not want any bulk. Example when sewing lingerie. You can make this kind of seam with the help of a
sewing machine.
17. Sheet seam/linen seam
This is a seam where we use an embroidery stitch to join the seam. It looks absolutely beautifully
though not as strong as the the other seams the stitches can be set horizontally or slanting. Antwerp edging stitch, fish
bone stitch , blanket stitch or herringbone stitch can be used in this manner joining the seams. These stitches are called
insertion stitches.
How to do this seams
How to do this seams
1. Finish the fabric edges
2. Tack the edges of the two fabrics and with a butting-hole bar stitch
3. Cut a strip of paper 1 inch width and the length equal to the fabric edge
4. Baste the edges of the fabric to the paper so that the distance between them ½ inch
5. Work the stitches between the fabric edges; interlacing, knots, twisting all work between the edges.

Class 1 (superimposed seam) :- This seam is constructed with a minimum of two component and is the most widely used
seam construction in this class. Among others, safety stitched and French seams are covered by this class.
This class is the commonest construction of seam and it has the following types.
1. French seam
2. Piped seam
The simplest seam type within the class is formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of material on anther.
As example of a superimposed seam with an additional component would be one that contained an inserted piping and
even her more them one construction is possible.
French seams Piped seams
Stitches

Class 2 (lapped seam ) :- The simplest seam type in this class is formed by lapping two pieces of material as shown.
Much more common on long seams on garment such as shirts is the so-called lap-felled seam, sewn with two rows of
stitch on a twin needle machine equipped with a folding device.
the type of raised, topstitched seam often used down skit panels is also technically a lapped seam although at the
beginning of its construction it appears to be a super imposed seam.
Lapped seam Lap felled seam
Class 3(Bound seam) :-In this class, the seam consists of an
edges of material, which is bound by another, with the
possibility of other components inserted into the binding.
the simplest version of this class is again unusual, as it cannot be
constructed with self- fabric binding because of the problem of
raw edges.
Welted seam

Bias cut strip would normally be used, unless the
fabric has an element of stretch. A bound seam is
often used as a decorative edge and the binding
may continue off the edge of the garment to
provide tie ends.
Examples in common use on underwear and
leisure wear and on skirt, jeans and ladies
trousers.
Bound seams
Common Bound seams

Class 4 (Flat seam) :- They may be butted together with out a gap and joined across by a stitch which has two needle
sewing into each fabric and covering threads passing back and front between these needle on both sides of the fabric
knitted fabrics are most commonly used because the advantage of this seam is that it provides a join that is free from bulk
in garment worn close to the skin such as knitted underwear.
Class 5 (Decorative seam) :- This is the first to the two class of seam which, in the old British Standard, were not regarded
as seam at all and were given the name ‘stitching’.
The tucks must, however, be set to face one way or the other and a decision as to which must be made in relation to the
design of the garment.
Flat seams

Decorative seams
Class 6(edge neatening) :- This is the other seam that
was called a edge stitching. seam type in this class
include those where fabric edge are neatened by means
of stitches (as opposed to finding with another or the
same Fabric) as well as folded hem and edges.
the remaining two seam classes in the 1991 British
standard are an addition to the original standard, added
in the 1983 edition, to include seam type commonly
seen in modern garment construction.

Class 7 :- Seams in this class
relate to the addition of
separate items to the edge of
a garment part. they are
similar to the lapped seam
except that the added
component has a definite
edge on both sides.
An example where the
additional item is self-fabric
plus interlining is another
versions of the buttonhole
band on a shirt.
Class 8:- The final seam class
in the British standard is
another where only one piece
of material need be involved
in constructing the seam. the
commonest seam type in this
class is the belt loop a used on
jeans, raincoats, etc.
In this study of seam types, a
selection only has been given
to demonstrate some of the
commoner constructions used
in garment.
Shirt buttonhole band
Belt loop and belt

Ssa Plain seams on dresses, blouse trousers
Sse Enclosed seams at edges of collars and cuffs
SSf Strap seams, taping or staying
SSk piped seams
SSp Hem or single-needle French seam
SSq Sandwich seams used to set waistbands
SSz Plain seams, busted and top stitched on each side
Ssae French seams
Superimposed seams
Lapped seams
LSa Seams for leathers and suede's (real of synthetic)
LSc Side seams on better men’s dress shirt
LSd Set patch pockets, labels
LSf Yoke/ black seam men’s dress shirt
Bound seams
Bsa Binding an edge with ribbon on leather
BSc Binding an edge with bias binding, setting sleeve placket
BSf Binding an edge with fabric(row edge on bottom)
BSk Binding an edge with fabric welting
BSo Binding an edge with fabric
Fsa Flat seams on sweat shirts and underwear
Flat seams

Class 200: Originally, hand stitches, these are mostly formed by single threads passed
form one side of the material to the other with each successive penetration of the
needle. There are following sub- classes:
Class 202: Saddle stitch
Class 205: Prick stitch
The basic classes in British standard 3870 part 1 are:-
Class 100 : these are chain stitches formed form a needle thread only. There are following
three sub- classes:-
Class 101: One Thread Basting
Class 103: One Thread felling for Hemming
Class 104: One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming.
Class 300: There are also referred to as lock stitches because the top and under groups of threads are interlaced to form
the stitch. There are following sub- classes:
Class 301: Two threads seam multiple plies
Class 304: Two threads zig zag stitch, A Stretch Lock stitch
Class 306: Two threads Blind stitch
Class 315: Two thread “three step Zig Zag”, A stretch Lockstitch with more stretch
Stitch type 301: two thread look stitch
Stitch 200: use label

Class 500 : There are know as over edge stitches because at least one
group of thread covers the edge of threads covers the edge of the
material. Following are the sub-classes:
Class 501 : One thread one needle over edge stitch for serging/ “Blanket
stitch”
Class 502 : Two thread one needle over edge stitch for serging
Class 503 : Two thread over edge stitch for serging with cross over on
edge of the fabric
Class 504 : Multiple (Three Thread) over edge chain stitch using needle
thread and looper threads. This is used for assembling light weight knits
and also for finishing hems.
Five thread safety stitch : When the 401 chain stitch and the 504
overlock stitch are sewn simultaneous usly they form what is called a five
thread safety stitch where the chain and overlock stitches are not
connected. This stitch combination is widely used to stitch denim and
cheaper grade grade trousers.
Class 400 : Multi- thread chain stitch uses one or more needle threads
and one or more looper thread stitch. Sub-classes are as following :
Class 401 : Two threads seams multiple plies with moderate stretch
Class 404 : Two thread topstitching or seaming with stretch
Class 406 : Two thread “Bottom cover stitch , A greater stretch chain
stitch
Stitch type 401 :two thread chain stitch

Mock Safety Stitch : It is formed from four thread where one or two of the over lock threads interlace with the needle thread.
It is used for garments of light weight materials or for linings. It cannot be pressed open due to its construction.
Class 700 : This is a single thread lock stitch similar to class 300, which has very limited applications because of its inherent
weakness. Sub-class is as following:
Class 701 : One thread typical uses lockstitch tacking
Class 800 : This class covers combinations of two or more stitch classes which are sewn simultaneously, like the five thread
safety stitch. Different variations of this class are used for the assembly of swim wear.
Class 600 : There are many complex stitch formations in this
class because the stitches can be formed form three to nine
threads and uses up to four needles. Sub-classes are as
following :
Class 602 : Four thread cover stitch or seaming knits
Class 605 : Five thread cover stitch or butt-seams
Class 607 : Six thread with cover stitch or butt-seams.
Flat butted seam

Thank you
TanujaSahu
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design (NSQF Level-6 Of NSDC)

Garment Seam and Stitch Types Guide

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