Bio processing of textiles - Rafsan

9/25/2014 Bio-processing of Textiles 1

Md. Rafsan Jany
Id # 2007200400024
6th Batch
Supervisor: Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah-ur-
Rahman
Associate
Professor

Project Title
BIO-PROCESSING OF TEXTILE
Bio-polishing & Enzyme washing

Acknowledgement
The department of Textile Engineering of Southeast University has given me
the field to perform the project with the ‘Bio-processing of Textiles’.
I am deeply indebted to our honorable supervising teacher Dr. Shah
Mohammad Fatah-ur-Rahman, Associate Professor and my entire course
teacher of textile department as their rendered them hand for all kind of help
to me.
I would also like to thank Engr. Md. Faridul Hasan, Executive, Dyeing,
Viyellatex Group Ltd. for helping by giving me information about the project.
The encouragement as a continued source of inspiration provided by my
parents is fully appreciated.
Finally I would like to acknowledge that I remain responsible for the
inadequacies and errors, which doubtlessly remain.

Abstract
Now a days the whole universe is concern about the
hygiene and they are looking for eco-friendly processes
everywhere. Textile processing is responsible for polluting the
environment at a large degree. Use of Cellulase enzyme for
denim washing is a standard eco-friendly technique to achieve
desired appearance and washing of denim and also the desired
appearance of the knit fabric. Applications of enzymes to replace
harsh chemicals and other difficulties for the processing
industries have been practiced for decades.
I have studied the bio-polishing effect of knit fabric &
washing effect of denim fabric with Cellulase enzyme under
different condition.

Objectives of the project
 To know the effect of bio-polishing on knit fabric/garment.
 To know the effect of enzyme washing on denim fabric/garment.
 To find out the washing technique by which faded/old look effect
is created in the garments.
Limitation
 It is based on knit fabric.
 All the experiments had done by cellulase enzyme.
 Only Focused on bio-polishing & enzyme wash only.

Methodology
Visited to different washing
Industries and knit dyeing
industries
Observed Different processes of
bio-polishing &enzyme washing
(cellulase enzyme)
Observed the effect of enzyme
on fabric and garments.
Group discussion done
Selected the suitable Process
and Recipe for Enzyme
application on Textile Processing

Introduction
Bio-processing can simply be defined as the
application of living organisms and their components
to industrial products and processes. It is not an industry
in itself, but an important technology that will have a
large impact on many industrial sectors in the future.
Bio-processing is the application of biological
organisms, systems or processes to manufacturing
industries. Bio-processing firms will rely mainly on
inexpensive substrates for biosynthesis, processes that will
function at low temperatures, and will consume little
energy.

Enzyme
Enzymes are proteins that catalyze chemical reactions. Mainly
they are consist of long chains of amino acids held together by
peptide bonds Like all catalysts, enzymes work by lowering the
activation energy for a reaction and thus dramatically accelerating
the rate of the reaction. However, enzymes do differ from most
other catalysts by being much more specific. Enzymes are known
to catalyze about 4,000 biochemical reactions.
Enzyme are proteins produced by living organisms. Some enzyme
replicated in the lab or engineered to perform in a particular task.
Practically most catalyst have a limited stability & after certain
time they lose their activity & are not usable again. Generally
most enzyme are used only once & discard after they have done
their job.

Cont….
Different types of enzymes are suitable for different stains.
Enzyme washing process breaks the stain down into smaller
molecules which can be removed by conventional soap or with
water.
I worked only with cellulase enzyme . I tried to know the
effect of bio-polishing & enzyme washing.
Enzyme works at low temperature & also environment friendly.
Many detergent products mix enzyme into their formulas , to
ensure that they are effective at all temperature & on all
stains.

ETYMOLOGY & HISTORY
In 1876 German physiologist Wilhelm Kühne (1837–1900)
proposed that the name 'enzyme' be used as the new term to
denote phenomena previously known as 'unorganised ferments',
that is, ferments isolated from the viable organisms in which they
were formed. The word itself means 'in yeast' and is derived from
the Greek 'en' meaning 'in', and 'zyme' meaning 'yeast' or
'leaven'.
Enzymes are usually named according to the reaction they carry
out. Typically the suffix -ase is reaction or the type of added to
the name of the substrate.

ENZYME & INDUTRIAL APPLICATION
Industrial enzymes can be produced in an
ecologically sound way where the waste
sludge is recycled as fertilizer.
Industrial application of enzymes started:
 Amylase Desizing (1952).
 Protease Wool (1984).
 Cellulase Bio-stoning (1987).
 Catalase Bleach cleanup (1993).
 Laccase Denim Bleaching (1996).
 Peroxidase Enzymatic Rinse
(1999).
 Pectate Lyase Bio-scouring
(2003).

Enzymes for Textile
There are lot of enzymes like amylases,
cellulases, catalase, pectinase and protease
for various textile wet-processing
applications like desizing, bio-polishing,
denim finishing, bleach clean-up, bio-scouring
and de-wooling.

Sources of Enzymes
Animal Enzyme
Enzyme Source
Catalase Liver
Lipase Pancreas
Protease Pancreas
Bacterial Enzyme
-amylase Bacillus
Protease Bacillus
Plant Enzyme
Protease Carica papaya
Successful enzymes for textile bio-processing
has yet to be synthesized .

DIFFERENT TYPES OF ENZYME:
Proteases:
Proteases are the most widely used enzymes in the detergent
industry. Proteases hydrolyze proteins and break them down
into more soluble polypeptides or free amino acids. As a
result of the combined effect of surfactants and enzymes,
stubborn stains can be removed from fibres.
Lipases:
oily and fatty stains have always been troublesome to remove.
The trend towards lower washing temperatures has made the
removal of grease spots an even bigger problem .The lipase is
capable of removing fatty stains such as fats, butter, salad oil,
sauces and the tough stains on collars and cuffs.

Amylases:
Amylases are used to remove residues of starch-based foods
like potatoes, spaghetti, custards, gravies and chocolate. This
type of enzyme can be used in laundry detergents as well as in
dishwashing detergents.
Cellulases:
Cellulase enzyme has properties enabling it to modify the
structure of cellulose fibre on cotton and cotton blends. When
it is added to a detergent, it results into the following effects:
1. Color brightening
2. Softening
3. Soil removal

How does enzyme work????

 Lock & key model
 Induced model

Bio-polishing of knit fabric
Stage-1: One bath Scouring and Peroxide bleaching
Recipe:
Anti-foaming 0.07gm/l
Rucozen WBX (Detergent) 0.5gm/l
Stabilizer SOF 0.5gm/l
Primasol jet (Anti-creasing) 1.5gm/l
Securon 540 (Sequestering) 1gm/l
Caustic 2gm/l
H2O2 2.5gm/l
pH 10-11
Temperature 1050C
Time 50min
Stage-2: Bio-polishing
Recipe:
BP Nano 0.9gm/l
Acetic acid 1gm/l
T-100 (Peroxide killer) 0.08gm/l
Securon 540 0.25gm/l
pH 4.5-5
Temperature 550C-600C
Time 40-60min

Process flw chart
Fresh water and fabric
Load at 450C
Temperature raise to
600C
Detergent & Peroxide
Stabilizer (Inject)
Run for 5 min
Inject Caustic and run
5 min
Raise temperature to
700C
H2O2 inject and run 5
min
1050C
Bio-polishing
before dyeing
Bio-polishing
after dyeing

Run for 30 min
Lower the
temperature to 800C
Bath drain
BP Nano & Acetic
acid
Securon 540 &
Peroxide killer inject
550C
Run for 60 min
Rinsing and unload
the fabric.

Process variables
Concentration
Temperature
pH
Time
M : L Rnatio
Mechanical Agitation
To achieve optimum bio-polishing, the process variables have been
varied as mentioned below
Concentration of enzyme: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 2.5%, 3% & 4%.
Temperature: 400C, 45 0C, 500C, 550C & 600C.
pH: 3-4, 4-5 & 5-6.
M: L: 1:5, 1:10, 1:15 & 1:20.
Mechanical Agitation: Vigorous Stirring, Medium Stirring &
Without Stirring.

Effects of Bio-polishing experimented
Effects of concentration of enzyme on bio-polishing
Effects of Temperature of enzyme on bio-polishing
Effects of pH of enzyme on bio-polishing
Effects of M:L of enzyme on bio-polishing
Effects of duration of enzyme on bio-polishing
Effects of Enzyme treatment on dyeing property (3%
shade)

Effects of concentration
Effects of Temperature
Properties
Result
Concentration of Enzyme
0.5% 1% 1.5% 2%
2.5
%
3%
3.5
%
Weight loss (%) 0.36 0.77 0.88 1.46 2.09 2.12 2.07
Abrasion (mm) 0.04 0.06 0.07 0.08 0.08 0.09 0.09
Wash fastness 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Pilling rating 3 3 4 4 4 4 4
Properties
Result
Temperature
400C 450C 500C 550C
Weight loss (%) 0.75 1.03 1.45 2.56
Abrasion (mm) 0.04 0.06 0.07 0.08
Wash fastness 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Pilling rating 3 4 4 4

Effects of pH
Properties
Result
pH
3-4 4-5 5-6 6-7 7-8
Weight loss (%) 0.47 1.21 1.1 0.93 0.86
Abrasion (mm) 0.03 0.08 0.06 0.05 0.04
Wash fastness 3 3 4 3 3
Pilling rating 3 4 4 4 4
Effects of M:L
Properties
Result
M: L Ratio
1:5 1:10 1:15 1:20
Weight loss (%) 1.06 1.12 0.62 0.51
Abrasion (mm) 0.03 0.04 0.06 0.06
Wash fastness 4-5 4-5 4 4

Effects of duration
Effects of Enzyme treatment on dyeing property
Properties
Result
Time(min)
30 40 50 60
Weight loss (%) 0.72 1.01 1.42 2.48
Abrasion (mm) 0.04 0.06 0.07 0.07
Wash fastness 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Properties
Results
Enzymes treatment after dyeing Enzyme treatment before dyeing
Concentration of Enzyme
1% 2% 3% 1% 2% 3%
Weight loss
(%)
0.77 1.23 1.89 0.79 1.25 1.93
Abrasion
(mm)
0.04 0.07 0.08 0.05 0.06 0.09
Wash fastness 4 4-5 4-5 2-3 3 3-4
Pilling rating 3 4 4 3 4 4
K/S Values 9.6 8.9 8.1 9.9 9.9 9.9

Discussions
 The best result is obtained at 3% concentration of enzyme.
 1:10 M: L ratio gives the best result.
 At pH range of 4-5, enzyme shows maximum activity.
 At 550C temperature, enzyme activity is maximum.
 Mechanical agitation supports enzyme activity.
 Depth of shade increases when enzyme treatment is given before
dyeing and the depth decreases when enzyme treatment is given after
dyeing.
 Pilling tendency decreases with application of enzyme.
 One bath application saves energy, time & cost. But the bio-polishing
effect is not as good as the two bath method.
 Wash fastness of the enzyme treated sample before dyeing is very
poor.
 Wash fastness of the enzyme treated sample after dyeing is good.
 Wash fastness of one bath enzyme treated sample is moderate.

Advantages of bio-polishing
 Hairiness fluffs and pills are removed.
 Material sticking (the burr effect) is prevented.
 Improved handle
 Achievement of surface smoothness and a clear structural appearance.
 Improved luster.
 Material texture relaxation
 Increased flexibility and therefore a soft handle even with over end
products and mercerized fabric.
 Improved sew ability.
 Fast to washing, low pilling tendency, no napping in use, or during care
operation.
 Stone wash effect without pumice stone and dyestuff destroying
chemicals.
 Poor quality, uneven, napped, knoppy material surface (i.e.) typical second
quality goods are converted into elegant, lustrous, soft, top quality with a fine,
high quality surface appearance.

Disadvantages of bio-polishing
 Loss in weight
 Loss in strength

Material selection:
Bio-processing of
Textiles
9/25/2014
3
0
Enzyme Wash (Denim)
Denim fabric composition: 100% cotton Indigo dye.
Weave: twill 3/1 weave
Ends/inch: 50-51
Picks/inch: 41-42
Surface density (gm/m2): 352-353
Warp linear density (Ne): 6-7
Weft linear density (Ne): 1 1-12
The denim garments have been processed by various
types of enzyme washing and finally softening method as
mentioned below.

Method of desizing
Table1: Recipe of desizing
Process parameter Amount
Soda ash 400gm
Caustic soda 400gm
Temperature 700C
Time 15min
Method of enzymatic wash
Table 2:Recipe of enzyme wash
SL enzyme 400gm
Acetic acid 200gm
Anti back staining
agent
200gm
Temperature 400C
Time 12min

Method of softening
Table 3: Recipe of fabric softening
Softener(Cationic) 200gm
Wash 2 times
Temperature Room temp.
Time 5min
 After softening the apparel was washed off
for two times.

Changes of fabric specification
after washing

Table : Effects of enzymatic wash on fabric specifications
Item
No. of
Observation
Before wash After wash Difference
% of
Difference
Average % of
Change
EPI
1 41 44 +3 +7.32
+6.88
2 40 43 +3 +7.50
3 39 42 +3 +7.69
4 42 44 +2 +4.76
5 42 45 +3 +7.14
PPI
1 38 42 +4 +10.53
+7.33
2 39 41 +2 +5.13
3 40 42 +2 +5
4 38 41 +3 +7.89
5 37 40 +3 +8.11
Warp count
(Ne)
1 7 10 +3 +42.86
+34.52
2 8 10 +2 +25
3 7 9 +2 +28.57
4 7 10 +3 +42.86
5 6 8 +2 +33.34
Weft count
(Ne)
1 9 10 +1 +11.12
+13.39
2 8 9 +1 +12.50
3 9 11 +2 +22.23
4 10 11 +1 +10
5 9 10 +1 +11.12
Surface
density
(gm/m2)
1 337 335 -2 -0.59
-0.825
2 336 333 -3 -0.89
3 338 335 -3 -0.88
4 337 334 -3 -0.89
5 339 336 -3 -0.88

Discussion
Denim trousers were chosen as apparel and after washing,
changes on characteristics of denim trousers has been
observed.
It is concluded that after enzyme wash the denim fabric
changed from harsh to softer. Due to abrasion damage
ends/inch and picks/inch of denim fabric has been increased
and as a result surface density of fabric increased. Again
tensile strength of fabric and seam strength of trousers has
been decreased due to enzyme washing.
Stiffness of denim fabric has been decreased after washing
which results in the increase of denim fabric softness. To hold
the qualities of sewn apparel it is very necessary to observe
the effects of enzyme wash on denim apparels.

Enzyme Inactivation
To prevent any damage of the fabric after the finishing operation
it is very essential that the reaction be terminated at the end of
treatment by enzyme inactivation. If the enzyme is not
inactivated entirely then at the end of the reaction fibres get
damaged and even extreme cases total destruction of the
material may result. The enzyme inactivation is therefore of
great importance from the technical point of view.
There are two distinct process of termination of enzyme:
1) Hot treatment at 800C for 20 min.
2) By raising the pH to 11–12.

Why the industry owner should use Bio-technology
in textile processing?????
 It is very useful during waste managing.
 Bio-technology helps the quality control.
 Used instead of harmful dyestuffs and chemical
treatments.
 Prevents the adulteration.
 Enhance the low energy type detergents.
 Using enzymes in finishing department.
 Low temperature operation.
 Cost saving.
 Eco friendly.

Conclusion

References “Bio- Processing Of Textiles” by Abhishek Jadhav & Javed Sheikh.
“Chemistry & Technology of Fabric Preparation & Finishing” by Dr.
Charles Tomasino.
“Applying Enzyme Technology for Sustainable Growth” by Guifang Wu,
Han Kuilderd & Sonja Salmon (Novozymes).
“Bio Polishing of Knit Goods” by Prof. S.K. Laga, Prof. Dr. A.I. Wasif &
Mr. Karan Shah (Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji).
“CIRCOT’s Eco-friendly Process for Scouring of Cotton Textile: Bio-scouring”
–Annual article of Central Institute for Research on Cotton
Technology, Mumbai.
“Bio-vision in Textile Wet Processing Industry- Technological
Challenges” by C. Vigneswaran, N. Anbumani and M.
Ananthasubramanian. Journal of Textile & Apperal, Technology &
Management; Volume 7, Issue 1, spring 2011.
“Effects of industrial enzyme wash on denim apparel characteristics” by
M. M. Rahman, Daffodil International University. www.ptj.com.pk ; January
2011.

THANK YOU ALL

Bio processing of textiles - Rafsan

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