Aperture controls depth of field by adjusting the size of the lens opening. A smaller aperture number means a wider opening and shallower depth of field, while a larger number gives a narrower opening and greater depth of field. Aperture priority mode allows the user to set the aperture while the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed. Depth of field refers to the distance in a scene that appears in focus.

1. Aperture (AV mode)
Aperture
Aperture is the name for the hole in a lens which controls
the depth of field in a photograph.
The main purpose of using aperture-priority mode is to
control the depth of field.
Depth of field refers to the range of distance that appears
acceptably sharp.
The smaller the F Number,
The larger the hole in the
lens. As more light is let in
the camera due to the large
hole, it means that the
depth of field does not
occur as well as a larger F
Number.
As you can see, the higher the
F number, the smaller the hole
in the lens or aperture. Thus
meaning a much greater depth
of field as less light is let in the
camera.

2. Here the photograph
has been taken using
a Smaller F Number
of F/4.5. This has a
wide aperture due to
one image being the
central focus. The
image was taken
close to the camera to
enhance the effect of
what large aperture
can create.
Here the F Number on
this photograph was
F/11. This starts to
become more clear as
depth of field is starting
to be seen across the
image.
Here the Photograph
was taken at F/29. This
is clear as the small
aperture creates a
much larger depth of
field due to full image
being clear and you
can see objects such
as the Rubbish Bin
without Noise.

3. Shutter Speed TV (Time value)
Mode
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed or exposure time as it is also
known, is the length of time a camera's shutter
is open when taking a photograph
As you can see on the
chart that The smaller
the number the faster
the shutter opens and
closes meaning less
light can hit the camera.
The slower the shutter
speed, the longer the
time passes from when
you press the button on
the camera to when it
is taken. Thus meaning
more light is let in and
images may become
like that one at the
bottom of the chart.

4. This photograph was taken
at an exposure time of
1/200 of a second. This
was taken quicker as it is
designed to capture the
moving car and had to
allow as little light as
possible.
The photograph was
taken at a slower
shutter speed of 1/15 of
a second meaning the
camera took longer to
react and ultimately
came out blurred. It is
just quick enough to
capture what the subject
is in the photograph.
The Photograph was
taken at a very slow
exposure time of 1/4of a
second. This meant that
not only would the
photograph be blurred
but it would allow that
much light that the
image would be very
difficult to see.

5. ISO settings
The ISO setting on a camera
changes how sensitive the
sensor is to light.
The lower the ISO, the less
sensitive it is to light
meaning that it will capture a
better quality Photograph.
Noise being the grains that
appear on a image that may
have also been caused due
to camera shake.
Using a larger ISO on a
camera would mean
that it will be more
sensitive to light,
producing a bad image
as it would have more
Noise.
When image quality
needs to be very high, a
low ISO speed is
required to avoid noise!

6. This photograph was taken at
an ISO of 1600. This is clear
because the photograph has a
lot of Noise and grain in it. This
has become blurry due to
having much more light than
needed in the image. As it is
taken so quickly there is not
enough time to capture
everything meaning it will not
receive enough light.
This Photograph was taken at
an ISO of 800 as it has a lot of
light such as the one taken with
1600 ISO, however this starts to
show less grain and more
sharpness on the object. This is
less sensitive to light however
still lacks the detail of a lower
ISO.
This photograph was taken at
a much lower ISO of 400. It is
taken at a slower speed to
receive more light on the
sensor. A lot more quality and
sharpness is seen across the
whole photograph because it
has time to steady itself and
capture the full image at a
natural pace.

7. White Balance
White Balance is altering the way the camera sees White.
White Balance is used to change the way the
/
photographs are taken, and sometimes is vital to create a
photograph suitable to that climate around you.
Using the cloudy setting in bright daylight will give your
image a warmer, yellow tint to it or the Tungsten setting to
make the image blue and more abstract.
There are many
temperatures when
looking at white
balance and you can
alter an image to
whatever colour you
wish by taking in
certain ways.

8. Daylight
Shade
Cloudy
Tungsten
The photographs taken with Tungsten and Daylight are very
different, However the cloudy setting does very little to change
the appearance of the photograph. The shade setting brings
out the colour that the natural daylight did not bring, this was
found absurd as the shade itself became the brightest setting
that was tried. The Tungsten gives a more peculiar impression
to the photograph and this may be used when capturing
something more exciting such as an moving object.

9. Original image
Cropped image- This technique takes away parts of the photograph you do not
want to be visible, such as here the top of the building has been cut off from the
original as that was adding more of a darker tone to the image.

10. Levels
This tool on the left is
found in Photoshop
and used to tilt the
levels to whatever
colour or brightness
you choose. The
brightness can also be
controlled in certain
parts of the image and
not the full
photograph. For
example here the
original image has had
a sharper
improvement towards
the top in the centre.

11. Dodging and Burning- Dodging has predominantly been used to bring
out the colour in the parts where the natural daylight has not brought
out. Burning has been used to darken the middle stairway to add to the
detail that was already there.
Colour Adjustments such as Hue and saturation have been used to tilt
the colour balance to more of a green image.