This document discusses hair coloring and provides information on why people color their hair, hair structure, texture, density, porosity, gray hair percentage, and color theory. It explains that hair coloring is both an art and a science. Key factors to consider when coloring hair include the hair's texture, density, porosity, natural level or darkness, base color, tone, and percentage of gray hair. Understanding color theory including primary colors, secondary colors, complementary colors, and how they interact is also important for achieving the desired hair coloring results.

1. HAIRCOLORING
CHAPTER 21
HAIRCOLORING IS AN ART
AND A SCIENCE !

2. WHY DO PEOPLE
COLOR THEIR HAIR ?
To Blend or Cover Gray
(unpigmented) Hair
Enhance Existing Hair
color
Make a Fashion Statement
or Show Self-Expression
Correct unwanted tones
due to environmental
exposure to sun light or
chlorine
Accentuate a particular
haircut

3. HAIRCOLORING
‘Hair Color’ mean the color of the hair created by nature!
&
‘Haircolor’ is an industrial-coined term referring to
artificial haircolor products and services !
A color clientele can be very profitable, Clients who color
their hair usually visit the salon every 3 to 12 weeks.

4. Need to know facts for Hair Coloring
Hair Structure
Cuticle- outermost layer of the hair
• Protects interior layers of hair stand
• 20% of the overall strength of hair shaft
• Cuticle should lay tightly against cortex ‘like shingles on a roof’
Cortex- middle layer of hair strands
• 80% of overall strength of hair shaft
• Majority of the hairs’ strength and elasticity
• Contains the Melanin (natural pigment)
which determines hair color
Medulla-innermost layer of the hair strand,
• it sometimes is missing in fine or blonde hair
3 Types of Melanin in CORTEX
• Eumelanin- gives black and brown colors to hair
• Pheomelanin- gives blond and red colors to hair
• Mixed Melanin- contains both Eumelanin and Pheomelanin
The Structure of the hair and the desired results determine
which haircolor products to use.

5. Texture
is the diameter of an individual hair
strand Small (fine), Medium (Medium),
Large (Coarse)
Fine - melanin is grouped tightly
together, takes color faster and can
appear darker
Medium- ranges are average for
processing hair
Coarse- melanin are grouped further
apart, takes longer to process
Density
the number of hair per square inch
Thin / Medium / Thick
Thin hair requires less product than thick
hair does !

6. POROSITY________________________
The hair’s ability to absorb moisture
Low porosity – cuticle closed tight (Natural hair),takes longer to
process
Average porosity- cuticle is slightly raised, (exposure to sun, hard
water, or heat )average processing time
High porosity- cuticle lifted open, exposure to hair chemical process
and sun , hard water, heat; processes quickly; usually fades fast and
results in deeper color
Take a single hair strand-run fingernail run from end to root, feel for
smooth or roughness

7. This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND
Gray Hair
Hair that has lost its pigment !
This hair require special care when formulating.
When determining percentage of gray, people loses
with age, reference to the picture at the bottom
This lady has able 50/50 or Salt ‘N’ Pepper
The lady at the bottom right side has virtually
White hair referred to at 100% Gray!
This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-
SA-NC

8. Finding Gray percentage

9. The Level System- a system used to determine the
hair color level of lightness or darkness (Excluding the
Tone)
Each contain a number ranging from 1 to 10
The Numbers :1- being the darkest to 10 being the lightest
Ex. Level 10 being the lightest color, has the least amount of
pigment !
To Level 1 being the darkest color, has the most amount of
pigment !
To find the level –part off a ½ inch square in the crown area,
comb the hair upward, towards the light, fan hair apart.
Next, hold the manufactures level swatch next to the hair at
the base of the section of hair. Make sure you are comparing
swatch to hair that does not have sun or chemical exposure.
Also, determine midshaft and ends
10 Natural
lightest Blond
9 Natural Very
Light Blond
8 Natural Light
Blonde
7 Natural
Medium
Blond
6 Natural Dark
Blond
5 Natural
Lightest Brown
4 Natural Light
Brown
3 Natural
Medium Brown
2 Natural Dark
Brown

10. COLOR FACTS
• Is the warm, cool, or neutral
color! Gives the balance of color!
Contributing pigment is also
know as undertone.
TONE
(HUE)
INTENSITY
BASE COLOR
Strength of a color. Soft,
Medium, Strong. Intensifiers
can be added to a formula to
intensify the results
Predominant tone of a color.
The 1st Letter indicates the
base & 2nd letter indicates
tone of a color on Level
System.
Use the Clients Eye Color and skin tone to determine the Tone!

11. COLOR THEORY
SOMEONE@EXAMPLE.COM
Is described as a property of objects that depends on the light
they reflect and is perceived (by the human eye) as red, yellow,
blue, or other shades.
In other words’ COLOR is light reflected by objects that is
perceivable(are in the visible spectrum of light).
Thus, if color is not perceivable(visible) there is an absent of
light.
To have a general understanding of color theory, you must first
understand the importance of Base Color(predominant tone of a
color). To see how each manufacturer associates base colors with
lines.
The Law of Color
Is a system for understanding color relationships.

12. Primary Colors
Pure or fundamental colors are
Blue, Red, Yellow
Blue is the strongest(visually) of the
primary colors and is the only cool primary
color.
Blue is the smallest size of the pigment
molecules
Red is medium strength(visually) primary
color
and is the warmest of the primary colors.
Red is the largest size of the pigment
molecule.
Yellow is the weakest(visually) of the
primary colors. And is a warm primary
color.
Yellow is the medium size of the pigment
molecule.

13. Secondary Colors
Mixing equal parts of Primary Color
Orange Green
Purple
Mix Equal Parts
Yellow & Red =
Orange
Mix Equal Parts
Yellow & Blue =
Green
Mix Equal Parts Red & Blue =
Purple

14. Tertiary Colors
Mix Equal Parts of a
primary and a
Neighboring
Secondary Color

15. Complementary Colors
Primary and
Secondary colors
positioned directly
across from each
other on the color
wheel.
Complementary
Colors neutralize
each other. Using this
knowledge, you can
emphasize or distract
from certain skin
tone or eye color

16. Let’s Put It All Together
• Texture-Fine, Medium, Coarse (Diameter) 5
• Density-Thin, Medium, Thick (# of Hairs per inch)
5
• Porosity-Low, Medium, High (Raised Cuticle) 6
• Level-1-10 (Darkness to Lightness) 9
• Base Color(Predominant color)(1st Letter)&
Tone(Undertone)( 2nd Letter on Level System)
use skin tone and eye color 10
• Consider the Lights you are using 11
• Use color wheel to help you neutralize or
accentuate your choices 12-15
• Use your Eyes & determine all the about
• Now consider coloring gray hair with the above 7-8