CT 137 Advanced Garment Production

1. Evaluating Garment Quality
CT 137 Advanced Apparel Construction

2. OBJECTIVE
• Acquire most efficient and effective
apparel construction without
compromising quality and creative
vision.
• Learn appropriate method and
techniques relevant to producing
quality garments.

3. As BS Clothing Tech majors one should ...
• recognizes the standards at different
garment construction components
that affect, to varying degrees,
appearance and function of garment
items.
• be aware that standards will provide
a better understanding of
comparable apparel structures as
well as establishing the company’s
quality standards.

4. QUESTION???
In deciding to what
garment to purchase,
choose one you will
prioritize:
____ Value (Monetary)
____ Quality
____ Aesthetic

5. Garment Quality
• Interact to affect the final price and
value of an apparel item.
• The concept of quality or value as a
direct correlate of durability may
appear foremost in the minds of
many consumers during a casual
discussion of term, BUT in fact
aesthetic concerns actually dominate
most traditional treatments of
apparel quality.

6. Garment Quality
• Quality then is a broad term, and one
which encompasses many different
aspects of garment
• Cost, because it relates to the factors
of production, does not always
reflect aesthetic or durability benefits
but manufacturing solutions to
certain production problems.

7. • Most of the standards will provide an
in-depth look at construction
components that affect, to varying
degrees, appearance, function and
cost of apparel items. However, none
of these can be evaluated in
COMPLETE ISOLATION.

8. • Some generalizations can be made
as to comparative cost or quality of
similar construction components,
but all the specifics that resulted in
the garment’s final cost cannot be
ordered with precision except in
terms of the particular garment and
its manufacturer.

9. • Darts & Dart Equivalent
• Seams
• Seam Finishes
• Collars
• Hems & Finishes
• Facings
• Closures
• Underlining, Interfacing, Interlining &
Lining

10. Darts & Dart Equivalent
Standards for Evaluating Dart & Dart
Equivalents
• Stitch length is appropriate to the
fabric and expected stress at the
stitched location.
• The thread matches the apparel
fabric
• No crease or wells are present on the
right side of the dart.

11. Darts & Dart Equivalent
• No dimples or bubbles can be seen
at the dart point.
• Matching darts are identical in size
and angle.
• Fullness is evenly distributed in dart
equivalents.
• Sufficient fabric is allowed to achieve
the desired design effect in dart
equivalent.

12. Seams
Standards for Evaluating Seams Types
• Seams should be perfectly even; that
is the stitching should be exactly the
same distance from the seam edge
for the entire length of the seam.
• Seams should be stitched with the
correct stitch length.

13. Seams
• Seams should be smooth, with no
puckers or pulls, and should lie flat.
• The type of seam should be in
accord with the type of fabric, the
position of the seam and the
projected care of the garment.

14. Seams
• The seam width should be in accord
with the type of seam, seam finish
and garment design. Wider seam
allowances require more fabric which
leads to greater cost.
• Seams should be finished according
to the dictates of the seam type
fabric and projected garment care.

15. Seam Finishes
Standards for Evaluating Seam
Finishes
• The finish selected should prevent
the fabric from raveling, rolling or
stretching and should contribute to
the overall neatness of the garment.
• The finish should not add bulk to the
seam.

16. Seam Finishes
• The finish should be applied securely
so that it remains in place during
normal wear and care.
• The seam finish should be
appropriate to the garment fabric, to
the garment design and to the
intended use of the garment.

17. Collars
Standards for evaluating collars
• The collar is interfaced, when
necessary, with appropriate
interfacing.
• The outer edges of the collar are
smooth and even with no seam wells
or holes.

18. Collars
• Enclosed seams have been trimmed
to reduce bulk.
• The size and shape of the collar is
consistent from one end to the other.
Except for international design
variations.

19. Collars
• The collar fits the neck edge to which
it is sewn without stretching or
gathering.
• The collar assumes the proper
position on the garment, as intended
by the designer. For example, a flat
collar lies flat against the garment
instead of rolling up.

20. Collars
• The placement of the collar is
symmetrical on the garment. For
example, notched collars have the
same size of the notch on each side
of the center front.
• All raw edges are carefully concealed
during collar application so that they
are not visible when the garment is
worn.

21. Hems & Finishes
Standards for evaluating hems and
finishes
• The hemline of the garment is
parallel to the floor during wear,
unless the garment design dictates
an uneven hemline.
• The hem is even in depth.

22. Hems & Finishes
• The hem is flat and smooth, with no
pulling, ripples, puckers, or pleats.
• The hem type is appropriate for the
garment fabric and the hem type.
• The attachment method is
appropriate for the garment fabric
and style.

23. Hems & Finishes
• Excess bulk has been eliminated
from the hem area.
• Topstitched hems should be evenly
stitched with appropriate thread and
stitch length.

24. Hems & Finishes
• Blind stitching, fusing, and gluing
should be inconspicuous on the right
side of the garment.
• Thread-covered edges should be
smooth, well covered, and free from
frayed or hanging threads.

25. Hems & Finishes
• Hems at garments openings should
be covered by the facing.
• Hems in linings should allow for ease
in wearing.
• Hems in pleats should be handled to
reinforce the pleat crease.

26. Facings
Standards for evaluating facings
• Facing lie smoothly with no ripples
or puckers.
• Facings are secured inconspicuously
to the garment reverse to prevent
their rolling to the outside. Top
stitching, when used, serves as a
means of securing the facing.

27. Facings
• The free edge of the facing is
finished with an appropriate seam
finish to prevent raveling.
• In garments made of thick, spongy
fabric, the facings are cut from a
lighter weight but matching fabric.

28. Facings
• Facings in transparent or translucent
fabrics are very narrow or stop at a
design line of the garment.
• The facing is understitched.

29. Facings
• Most areas that are faced are
interfaced as well. Bias facings are
the exception and are not interfaced.
The extended facing on a cowl
neckline is not interfaced. Since that
portion of the neckline is cut on the
bias and intend to drape softly.

30. ZIPPER CLOSURES
Standards for evaluating zippered
closures
• The zipper teeth and tape materials
are suitable for the apparel design
and fabric.
• The zipper length is adequate for
ease in wearing or using the item.

31. ZIPPER CLOSURES
• The method of attachment is
appropriate to the garment design.
• Any visible stitching is neatly done.
• The zipper is securely inserted into
the garment.

32. ZIPPER CLOSURES
• Zipper teeth are concealed
adequately by lapped application.
• Lapped applications are evenly
formed.

35. Snapped & Hooked Closures
Standards for evaluating snapped and
hooked closures
• Fasteners are the correct size for the
closure requirement.
• Fasteners are attached securely,
whether mechanically or by the hand.

36. Snapped & Hooked Closures
• Concealed applications of fasteners
are inconspicuous.
• Fasteners used in visible
applications are suitable for the
apparel design and fabric.
• Durable coverings (thread or fabric)
are used when appropriate.

39. Underlining
Standards for Evaluating Underlining
• Fashion fabric and underlining fabric
relate well – the garment is neither
over-supported nor under-supported
for the desired design effect.

40. Underlining
• Garment fabric and underlining
fabric are compatible as to color,
care requirements and longevity.
• The two layers of fabric should fit
smoothly and evenly with no pulls or
tucks.

41. Interfacing
Standards for Evaluating Interfacing
• The interfacing complements and
reinforces the garment fabric with
out overpowering it.
• Care requirements of the interfacing
are compatible with those of the
garment fabric.

42. Interfacing
• Heavy interfacings are not caught in
seams.
• The interfacing does not show
through to the right side of the
garment.

43. Interfacing
• Woven interfacings and nonwoven
oriented interfacings are cut on the
same grain as the garment to be
interfaced.
• Interfacing is used in any areas
required shape, body, support and
reinforcement and where seam
impressions may be a problem.

44. Interlining
Standards for Evaluating Interlining
• Interlinings are of lightweight fabric
with insulating properties.
• Interlinings do not add excessive
dimensions to the garment.

45. Interlining
• The interlining’s care requirements
match those of the rest of the
garment.
• The interlined garment has adequate
wearing ease to accommodate the
added thickness.

46. Linings
Standards for Evaluating Lining
• The lining fits smoothly inside the
garment.
• The lining provides a neat, clean
inside finish.

47. Linings
• The lining is constructed from a
smooth static free fabric that
complements the outer fabric.
• The lined garment allows sufficient
ease in the lining for the body
movement without straining the
fabric.

48. Linings
• A partial lining used to maintain the
shape of a garment extends at least
far enough to accomplish this
purpose.
• On garments lined to the edge, the
lining does not peek out to the front.

49. Evaluating Pattern Development (10 points)
Technique & Execution
3 points
Quality of Pattern/ Draping
3 points
Cutting
3 points
Adherence to Schedule 1 point