Varsha Karadia , Fashion Design Student NSQF Level -6

Varsha Karadia
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Conforming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC
Dezyne E’cole College , Ajmer

A Project On
GARMENT
TECHNOLOGY
Submitted To
Dezyne E’cole College,
Civil Line,
www.dezyneecole.com
By Varsha Karadia
Conforming to NSQF Level 6 of NSDC

Dezyne E’cole College
106/10 Civil Lines
Ajmer-305001, Raj
Tel. 0145-2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
This project report of Ms. Varsha Karadia student of 2nd Year Fashion Design Diploma, NSQF Level 6 of NSDC, has been
checked and has been graded as ______________________________________________________________
____________________________________
Thanking you,
Principal
(seal & signature)

I am Varsha Karadia, student of Fashion Design department of Dezyne E’cole College. I would
like to thank to all the mentors who had helped me to complete this project.
I also thank Dezyne E’cole College for giving me this opportunity to make this project and
helped me to understand the technical working of fashion designing
Acknowledgement

Content
1. Cost Consciousness
The Designer And Garment Costs
Pattern Cutting And Material Utilization
Garment Trimming
2. Garment Technology
Introduction To Garment Technology
Sample Cutting
The Principle Of Fusing Technology
The Principle Of Sewing Technology
The Principle Of Fusing Technology
Garment Finishing And Inspection
The Sample Room
3. Design Department Operations
Communication
Management And Organization

Synopsis
In garment industry there are lots of stage to create the final garment. Most of people don’t know that in garment
industry to create garment not only cutting and stitching is required there are more steps to complete the work.
Garment industry work on three main parts that is – cost consciousness , garment technology and the design
department operations. These three parts include many operations.
Cost Consciousness – The designer and garment cost, Pattern cutting and material utilization, Garment trimmings
In this part, cost consciousness we studied about the factors which affect the cost of the garment and profit of
industry for example the material utilization, pattern engineering, different trimmings, cost sheet etc.
Garment Technology – Introduction of garment technique, Sample cutting, Principle of fusing technology, Principle
of sewing technology, Principle of pressing technology, Garment finishing and inspection, Sample room
In this part, garment technology we studied that without understand this part we can’t create any good garment,
which effects the quality of the final garment and sales of industry.
Design Department Operation – Communication, Management and organization
In this part, design department operation we studied that how a designer works and communicate with the other
department about the garment. for example the specification sheet, the numbering system etc.
As a fashion student we need to study the garment technology to understand the working of industry.

Indication of
trends
Materials
selection
DESIGN MARKETING
Market
research
Exchange of
idea
First collection
plan
Core design
Materials order
Receipt of
materials
Produce core
sample
Approval of
core design
Approval of
core samples
Review of
collection
sales
Trial costing
Final costing
Extension of
core design
Produce
collection
Customer
contact
Agents/ reps
Fashion
shows
Pre Sale Design Room Process
Marketing
program

In garment industry money is the most important
factor. In industry to start a new collection the first
thing is to set a budget. There are many factors which
can influence profitability but in normal circumstances
profitability originate to a large extent in the design
section.
To start a new design the combination of two factors
are used :-
• Market specialization
• The average garment concept
These two are the basic for accurate initial cost
estimates.
Market Specialization
The clothing industry is divided into two sectors
according to garment types, and within each sector
there are their subdivision of section based primarily
on price.
The Average Garment Concept
Most production units, system employed, are built around
the average garment concept where this term refers to a
typical garment produced by the unit. The average
garment concept is widely used because of the
production commonalities which exist between garments
of the same type.
The Garment Costing
The garment cost details the costs of every item
attributable to the production of a particular garment, the
sum of these costs plus the profit margin is the selling
price which the company will quote to customers.
Garment costing
Direct
materials
Direct
labour
Factory
overhead
General
overhead

Direct material – the materials and trimmings which go
into the construction and finish of the garment.
Direct labour – all the labour directly involved in
producing the garment and could include cutting,
fusing, regular swing etc.
Factory overhead – factory overhead is combination of
three elements :-
• Indirect labour
• Expense
• In direct materials
Indirect labour – the person who does not directly
perform the production operation such as managers,
supervisors etc.
Expense – in this every fixed and variable expense
incurred in operating the factory i.e. insurance, rent
maintenance etc.
Indirect materials – the material not directly
connected to the make up of a garment such as marker,
paper, pins, spare parts etc.
home export
Item Quan. Price unit cost
cloth 1.5 9.9 14.85
lining 1.25 6.75 8.4375
buttons 3 0.3 0.9
threads 1 0.7 0.7
hanger 1 0.14 0.14
packing 1 0.2 0.2
25.6275
min. price cost 8.62
10 0.16 1.6 16.9
40 0.15 6 51.1475
6 0.13 0.78 11.63
2 0.12 0.24 6.34
58 8.62 69.1175
stock
care
lable
100% cotton
satin
1142size 40
regular
geslin - 4
geslin - 4
dry clean
summer 1 34- 36 Wigan
brand
lable
size lable
Description supplier
south mills
lintex
DESCRIPTIONSTYLE NO.
6114 HC 20664 Cotton Top
Season Phase Size Range Factory
hangett
plast pac.
1
1
1
COMP. NUMBER MARKET
t6
plastic bag
fladom
0.1
0.18
0.12
stock
stock
stock
Materials
production
general overhead
total cost
profit
0.1
0.18
0.12
commisssion
FINAL COST
Production
cutting
sewing
specials
finishing
COST SHEET

In this we have learnt that there are many important
factors which effect the cost of the garment, in this we
learnt that how we can utilize the material without
distorting the design and some minor changes in
pattern and seam can utilize the material and decrease
waste and the cost of the final garment.
Material Utilization
In every garment industry material utilization is very
important for profit.
Material utilization means from one slot of the fabric
cut maximum pieces of garment and reduce the waste .
This material utilization will directly affect the cost of
garment.
Pattern Engineering
Pattern engineering are to improve the utilization
factor of a garment through prudent modification
which do not degrade the design integrity. A pattern
engineer will decide that how a pattern will be
modified so that the material waste is reduce.
The central procedures of pattern engineering are :-
Pattern accuracy – Pattern accuracy is a basic subject.
If the pattern was not accurate this directly effect the
design of final garment.
Major modifications – These modification include
seam displacement, slight reduction in flare, splitting
very components etc.
Making up allowances – In this we can reduce the
seam and hem allowance and facing width in
millimeters only.
Front with extended facing
original modified
Two piece inverted pleat
original modified
Examples of pattern engineering

SEAMS
The most important properties of a seam are strength
and flexibility. These properties are dependent on the
characteristics of fabric and width of seam allowance.
The width of seam allowance combines three important
elements -
Lateral strength Handling Visual control
Strength refers to
the ability of the
seam to withstand
reasonable
pressures at angles
to its length.
The width is
sufficient for open
the seam by hand
when pressing it.
There has to be an
adequate margin
between the right
hand side of the
pressure foot and
the edge of the
seam being sewn.
Lap felled seam
Top stitched seam
1.0
Sewing
Pressed open
Seam width
Presser foot
Margin
Needle gauge
0.6

FACING WIDTHS
The width of the facing is depends to a large extent on
the direction of the buttonholes in relation to the front
edge .there are two standard direction :-
Vertical buttonhole Horizontal buttonhole
The detail which have
to be taken into
account when
calculating the width of
the lower facing :-
Vertical buttonholes are
parallel to the front edge
In horizontal buttonhole
are at right angles to the
front edges.
CUT TRIMMINGS
Cut trimmings – in any garment industry trimmings also
play an important role for fine and finished garment.
Fusible – the effect of fusible on the
finished appearance of garment can be
seen, whereas the fusible themselves
cannot be seen.
Lining – linings are also an important cost
component and whilst the potential for
pattern modifications is limited, there are
some minor procedures which can
enhance the utilization of material.
Front edge
Eye to edge
Button hole length
Sewing allowances
Total width

FUSIBLE LININGS
Interlocking components – on many garments the
fusible for some of the components are cut from the
same material, which has two benefits :-
• Waste is decrease because space between
components reduce or eliminated.
• A common line, then only one line instead of two
has to be cut to separate components – a small
but worthwhile saving of labour.
These were positioned in the
cutting marker, with the
resultant waste plus the
necessity for cutting two lined
in order to separate them.
This arrangement has resulted
in a reduction of waste and one
common cutting line between
two pieces.
Example of interlocking – under collar
Major modifications in linings
Skirt lining:-
Body lining:-
Sleeve lining:-
Lining pattern for
straight garment
can be displace
from side seam
less then 3 cm.
For fitted coat
the side seam
can be displaced
form the hip line
down to hem.
Cutting skirt lining across the
piece.
Displace the hind arm seam
for sleeve linings.
Regular spacing
interlocked

Computerized Cutting
If the samples of bulk work are to be cut by CAM
system, the patterns used for all materials should
have a small modification made to their external
corners in order to slightly reduce cutting time.
Most CAM system use the following sequence for
cutting corners –
• The first converging line of the corner is cut to its
end.
• The blade is then automatically lifted out of the
spread and swiveled to the required angle.
• It is them plunged back into the spread and starts
cutting the second convergent line of the corner.
This lift and plunge sequence takes very little
time in itself but when it is used for the numerous
sharp corners in a long spread the time involved
can be a significant proportion of the total time
required to cut the spread.
Rounding Of External Corner

Garment Trimmings
In garment industry trimmings are used to make the
garment comfortable and functional. Garment
trimmings used for a garment can be a substantial
cost item and so their selection and use require
careful consideration. This careful consideration will
help to create a good garment of low cost.
Linings
Lining is to make the garment comfortable and it plays
an important role in a garment. There are some minor
procedures which can enhance the utilization of
material.
To select a perfect lining for garment we should
understand the material which depends on two : -
lining
Fiber Type Construction
Fiber type –
Today natural fibers are rarely used due to the high
cost. Synthetic fibers are now the most widely
accepted for garment linings.
The mostly used lining fibers are :-
• Viscose
• Rayon
• Polyamide
• Polyester
Construction –
The properties of lining is also depend on the
construction of the material. This will help to
understand the material and where we can use a
particular fabric for lining.
The three basic weaves are :-
Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave

Garment Trimmings
Function
Garment linings have a number of functional purposes
besides their main one which is to cover all of part of
the interior surface of a garment. These include –
• A sheer surface lining ,putting on and taking off
the garment is a smooth and simple action.
• Linings help to preserve the shape of skirts and
trousers made from loosely constructed or
stretchy material.
• Dress made from diaphanous material needs
cover up areas, which done by using lining.
• Some outerwear materials are cling to the body
and to protect the silhouette of the dress a layer
of lining between body and top cloth will solve the
problem.
• Lining are often used to protect the over hang
look on puff sleeves.
LININGS
Consumer appeal
An important factor of consumer appeal is to present
a garment whose inside has an attractive appearance.
The surface and lustre properties of the lining have a
considerable influence on this.
For this properties most widely used linings are –
• Taffeta – a crisp fabric with shiny surface. These
linings are generally piece dyed which helps to
soften and make them able to normal washing
and dry cleaning process.
• Crepe – the surface of this lining has a minute and
uniformly crinkled appearance.
• Satin – this lining has a smooth and highly lustrous
surface and a dull back. Satin is a name of weave.

Garment Trimmings
Secondary trimmings
Secondary trimmings are :-
1. Closures
2. Shoulder pads
3. Tapes
Closures
Buttons Zips Velcro
Closures – Most garments require some parts to be
open and close and to do that production department
need closures. There are different types of closures :-
Buttons
Buttons are the most widely used closure system for
all types of clothing. In past buttons have been made
from wood, precious metal and ceramics. And now
days button is mostly produced from plastic material
such as polyester, acrylic etc.
Garment buttons can serve two purpose :-
Utilitarian – these are used to open and close the
garment. These are also used as element of security.
Decorative – these are used to only as decorative
function.
Types of button are –
• Hooks and eyes
• Hooks and bars
• Press studs
• Rivets Hooks and eyes Hooks and bars
Press studs Rivets

Garment Trimmings
Secondary Trimmings
Zips – zips have become one of the most extensively
used closure method utilized by the clothing industry.
Apart from their functional purpose, zips are also used
for decorative design features. Zips are continuous
form of closure as against button which are
intermittent.
Components of regular zip
Types of zip
Regular zip
Invisible zip
Separated zip
Continuous zip
Regular zip – this seam is usually inserted into a seam
and whilst the zip is concealed the setting stitching
shows on the outside of the garment.
Invisible zip – in this zip setting stitching can not be
seen on the right side of the opening.
Separated zip – this zip is utilized when the garment
can be worn either closed or fully opened. This zip
used in parka jackets and zip out linings.
Continuous zip – used for men’s trousers and all
categories of jeans, continuous zip with an average
length wound onto reels with the metal chain closed
of separated into left and right sides.

Garment Trimmings
Secondary Trimmings
Velcro – This is presser sensitive tape
which have gained widespread
acceptance as a closure method for
many sportswear and items of
children’s clothing, the consist of two
nylon pile tapes one having a surface
of loop and the other a surface of
microscopic hooks. When two pile
surfaces are pressed together the
hooks engage the loops creating a
closure area the size of the tape.
Shoulder Pads – Padding in various forms and on
different locations of the body has been used for
clothing. During the past hundred years or so pads
have become a standard shaping medium for the
shoulder line. Pads can be made from foam or layers
of non-woven materials around a central foam or
fiber layer. For unlined garments a pad covered with
polyamide or self-material is generally used.
Tapes – There are narrow bands of woven fabric which
are used for the following purposes in the make-up of
clothing:
• Decorative- For binding the edges of collars, lapels
and flaps etc.
• Stretch control- To prevent seams or edges from
stretching during making-up.
• Finishing- Sometimes used instead of overlocking
on visible seam and hem edges.
Shoulder pads Stay tape on shoulder
and armhole

Clothing technology is a broad based subject because it
combines a number of individual technologies, with
each making a specialized contribution to the
production of clothing. For the designer and pattern
cutter these technologies are very are divided as
Need to know and good to know.
This examines the principles of the direct, or need to
know, technologies and will demonstrate the
considerations involved in their basic applications.
There is a great deal of specialized literature available
which deals with the good to know group of
technologies, and this should be referred to as and
when required.
BACKGROUND- The production clothing was essentially
a domestic industry dominated by local craft guilds who
first appeared in England during the thirteen century.
The absolute control of the craft guilds, who dictated all
the terms and conditions of making clothes, lasted until
about the end of the eighteenth century, when the first
glimmers of the industrial revolution started appear. It
took until the middle of the nineteenth century for
clothing production to start becoming industrialized, but
once it started it grew swiftly, made possible to a large
extent by the technological advances in machinery and
equipment.

Sewing Machines- Although hand-operated, domestic
sewing machines had been on the market since 1830s,
industrial machines were nonexistent at that time. It did
not take long, however, for the machine manufacturers
to produce sturdy, pedal driven sewing machines which
could sew 20 stitches a minute. By the end of the
nineteenth century there were electrically powered
machines capable of more then 200 stitches a minute.
Cutting- Garments had always been cut by shears or
slot-knives, but when bulk cutting became required,
these tools made it a long and laborious process. The
introduction of a band-knife cutting machine in 1860
paved the way for cutting spreads of material.
Spreading- Manually powered and operated spreading
machines started coming into use during the 1880s.
Buttonholes- A machine for sewing eyelet buttonholes
was patented by the Reece company in 1900, although
a some early versions had been around since the 1860s.
Pressing- Don Hoffman developed the first steam
pressing machine in 1905.

Sample Cutting
In garment industry sample room is the research and
development department.
In garment industry to make any new design it is
compulsory to first make the sample of the garment.
In sample cutting there are so many things we need to
pay attention such as the grain lines, pile direction,
fabric print etc.
Garment Pattern And Fabric
There are four preparatory process which have to be
carried out before starting to cut samples, and they
deal with :-
These processes
performed by the
Pattern Cutter
These processes
performed by the
Sample Cutter
The Pattern –
The pattern is the link between design and
production. They must communicate with all the
functions that have to use the pattern. These
functions are pattern grading, marker planning and
sewing, and the pattern has to be clearly and precisely
convey the information necessary to perform each of
these operations.
There should be a pattern for every component to be
cut. Patterns should be paired when the garment to
be cut. Two method of pairing pattern by marks and
colour :-
Example of by colour

Sample Cutting
Pile direction –
This describes the lay, length and density of the
protruding fibers on the surface of the right side of
the cloth.
GRAIN LINES –
This refers to the positioning of pattern components
in relation to the true length of the fabric.
A garment will hang in a direct relationship to the
grain direction of the body components. If the grain
line are incorrect the finished garment will have a
distorted appearance. One - way Two – way No pile
On these fabrics
there is pile which
lays in one
direction only
example –
corduroy fabric.
On these fabrics
there is pile which
lays in two
direction.
It refers to
materials which
have a virtually
negligible pile
factor.
Grain line on both side of pattern

Sample Cutting
Fabric pattern –
This refers to the form of the pattern on the right side
of the cloth and has three aspects : -
• One way
• Two way
• Non directional
One - way :-
This is where the pattern form dictates that the
garment patterns for every size in the cutting marker
must be positioned in one direction only.
Two way :-
This type of pattern form has a definite direction but it
is not sufficiently dominant to warrant one way only
positioning.
Non directional :-
This type of pattern form has no definite directions
and subjects to the file factor, pattern components for
one size can be positioned in either length direction.
One - way
Two - way
No directional

Sample Cutting
Marker Planning
To cut a sample, the pattern components have to be
economically arranged to their grain line and pile
direction of the fabric which is to be cut. The regular
form of this arrangements is a rectangle with the
short side equivalent to the net width of the fabric
and the long side the length required to contain the
pattern components. Drawing of these arrangement is
a cutting marker.
Marker Planning
Net width –
This is sometime called the cut able width. These
terms refer to the remaining width after the
measurements of the two selvedges have been
deducted from the gross width of the fabric.
PRINCIPLES OF MARKER PLANNING
Principles Of Marker Planning
Manual
Planning
Computer Aided
Marker Planning
Single width of marker

Sample Cutting
Manual Planning
Before starting to plan the marker there are some
preparatory procedures to perform :-
• The pattern should be checked, it contains the
correct number of components.
• The pattern set should be verified for correct
pairing for open cloth.
• On every component grain line and directions
indicators must be marked.
• The direction indicators should be checked against
the fabric itself.
• Net width has to be established.
• Matching points should be checked for materials.
• This also applies to the symmetry requirements for
checked and striped materials.
When these procedures have been completed the
planner of cutter can actual planning of the marker
incorporating some of all of the following guidelines:-
• If marker is being planned on marker paper, the
first stage is to mark the net width for estimated
length, and a starting line at one end.
• The largest components should be positioned first
and where possible the smaller parts are fitted
into the remaining spaces.
• Similarly curved lines should be interlocked when
possible.
• The same principle applies to the positioning of
angled and straight sections which have
corresponding forms.
• When there is a permissible amount of tilt from
the grain line care should be taken that two seams
which are to be joined.
• The garment cannot be cut precisely if interlocked
parts are butted too closely together.
• A tight marker is characterized by the small
amount of daylight showing between the
components

Sample Cutting
Computer Aided Marker Planning
CAD system widely used in sample room when large
numbers of new sample markers have to be produced
continuously. Most of these systems have two
alternative modes of operation and the choice
between them is dictated by the amount of the time
available for planning and the accessibility of the
system during the regular working day.
The two mode of operations are :-
Two Mode Of
Operations In CAD
Interactive
Automatic
Interactive Automatic
This is a two way
electronic communication
function between the
planner and the system
which enables the
operator to plan marker
with the aid of computer.
The system automatically
applies the relevant
constraints and also
indicates to the planner
the length of the marker at
any given stage. As the
system control all the
details , the planner can
concentrate on efficient
positioning and
reiterations.
In this mode another
constraint ahs to be
input: the maximum
permissible length of the
particular marker to be
planned. The system
plans the marker without
any manual intervention
and automatically rejects
markers which exceed the
permissible length.
Another benefit of the
automatic mode is that
markers can be planned
overnight without
operators being present.

Sample Cutting
Marker Making
If CAD system is not used in the sample room the
markers have to be prepared manually. For this two
method can be employed :-
• Chalk
• Paper
Chalk – this is the simplest and cheapest method but
it generally produces inaccurate markers, because of
these :-
• Chalked lines have to be thick and these lines are
not conducive to accurate cutting.
• Wax chalk marks remain on the cloth for a
reasonable time. And pipe clay marks can wholly
disappear is the marker is handled often.
• Using undue pressure on the chalk marking can
cause some slight distortion of the marks lines.
Paper – a very accurate method of making markers is
to mark the planned pattern arrangement on paper
with a fine pen or pencil. There are printed paper
produced for this purpose:-
• Spot and cross – one side of this paper is printed
with alternate spot and cross symbols at 2.5 cm
spacing in width.
• One to five – this marker paper has a print pattern
of alternate rows of the letters A to E and the
numbers 1 to 5 all at 2.5 cm square spacing.
BIAS
WIDTH
LENGTH
Spot and cross
One to five

Sample Cutting
Cutting Checks And Stripes
Checks and stripes materials involved difficulties in
their cutting and sewing. There are full matching and
symmetry is necessary. There are some basic
technique and approaches which can be used and they
relate to: -
• The fabric pattern itself
• The suitability of the garment pattern
• Where to match the cloth pattern
• When symmetry is necessary
Fabric pattern
This is where it all starts because a decision has to be
made.
Full matching – this is a conspicuous pattern which if
not matched would create a visual dissonance on the
finished garment.
Partial matching – this applies mainly to heavily warp
striped materials such as regularly spaced solid chalk
stripe.
No matching – if checked of striped materials have a
very small pattern motif there is usually no need for
matching of symmetry.
The Garment Pattern
When planning to make sample garments in checked
of striped materials the designer has to consider
whether the intended designs are suitable for the
selected materials.
In practical term for these materials the patterns
contain the minimum number of components which
require matching and symmetry.
Warp
pattern
Weft
pattern
Weft
Pattern
repeat
Warp
Pattern
repeat
Warp
pattern
Warp
Pattern
repeat
Illustrations of the terms used
Checked material striped material

Sample Cutting
Matching
CHECKS – cutting these materials has to combine the
matching of both the warp and weft pattern. The size
of the warp and weft pattern repeats are the
determining factors.
Check pattern matching
Sleeves – irrespective of whether one piece of split
sleeves are being cut the top section of both sleeves
has to match the body.
Other components have to be dealt with on an
individual basis and the designer should always consider
how the matching requirements can be simplified
without affecting the design integrity.

Sample Cutting
Symmetry
Symmetry – as the majority of garments are
symmetrical it follow that the pattern of a material
should be positioned symmetrically in the garment.
Stripes
Checks

Sample Cutting
Symmetry
Working on Print matching in Checks
Front Back
YokeSide seam

The Principles Of Fusing Technology

In garment industry fusing is also used as interlining.
fusing is a trimming which is used to enhance the
quality and finishing in a garment.
as a student of designing we need to understand the
types and characters of fusing.
Construction Of Fusibles
fusible
resin
Substrate ( base material )
Top cloth
The components
The laminate
Base material
The base materials are produced in a diversity of
woven knitted and nonwoven forms. Base cloths
influence the characteristics of the finished garment :-
• Handle and bulk
• Shape retention
• Shrinkage control
• Crease recovery
• Appearance after washing of dry clean
• Durability
Woven substrates
Knitted substrates
Non -Woven substrates

Resins
Resins are the bonding agent which is used between
the base material and top cloth. Different resins
conform the following conditions :-
Upper Limit Temperature – the resin become viscous
at a temperature below that which would damage the
top cloth. The temperature varies according to the
composition of top cloth, it rarely exceed 175⁰ C.
Lower limit temperature – this is the lowest
temperature at which the resin starts to become
viscous, this is about 110⁰ C.
Cleanability – the adhesive properties of the resin
have to be sufficiently strong to withstand washing or
dry clean throughout the normal life of the garment.
Handle – the resin must contribute to the required
handle and not act as an unwanted stiffening agent on
the final laminate.
Resins – type and general characteristics

Coating
Aspects of Coating
Density Coating System
Density – resin are applied to substrates in three
different densities – low, medium and high the degree
of density refers to the actual mass per unit volume of
the resin material.
Coating system – this refers to the process whereby
the resin is deposited and secured on the substrate.
There are three principle methods :-
• Scatter coating
• Dry dot printing
• Preformed
Scatter coating Dry dot printing Preformed
This method uses
electronically
controlled
scattering heads to
deposit the resin
crystals on to the
moving substrate.
This reduces the
flexibility of the
laminate.
In this method
resin is printed
on to substrate
in regularly
spaced dots. This
method is
generally use to
produce the most
flexible bond.
The resin is heat
processed to
form a net which
is then bonded
onto the
substrate by heat
and pressure.
This method is
also used to
produce pater
backed tapes.
Fusing process
Temperature -
there is a limited range of temperatures that are
effective for each type of resin.
• Too high temperature causes the resin to become
viscous.
• If temperature is too low the resin is not
sufficiently viscous to disburse into the top cloth.
Generally resin melt temperatures range from 130⁰ –
160⁰ C.

Time –
The only time element of any value during the fusing
process is when the top cloth and fusible are under
pressure in the heating zone of the machine. This time
cycle for a particular fusible is determined by : -
• Whether the fusible has a high of low melt resin
• If a light of heavy substrate is being used
• The nature of the top cloth being used
Pressure –
When the resin is viscous pressure is applied to the
top cloth and fusible assembly to ensure that :-
• Full contact is made between the top cloth and
fusible
• Heat transfer is at the optimum level
• There is am even penetration of the viscous resin
into the fibers of the top cloth.
Fusing machinery
A press is used for fusing and three basic types are :-
• Steam Press
• Flat Bed Press
• Conveyor Belt Press

Components of sewing
There are five basic components of sewing :-
• Needles
• Throat plate
• Presser foot
• Feed dogs
• Thread
Needles – the function of sewing machine needle are
to form a passage in the material through which the
needle thread can wholly of partially pass and form a
loop which can be picked up be the looper or hook
mechanisms.
Parts Of Needle

Needle points
Points and tips have a decisive bearing on the
performance of the needle and the various types of
combinations can be divided into two groups :-
Needle Points
Round Points Cutting Points
Round point – these are used for the sewing circular
cross section they differ in there tip shapes.
• Set point needle – these needles are used for most
woven fabric
• Ball point needle – these needle are preferred for
delicate and knitted materials.
Cutting points – these needles are actually cut a hole
through the material and because of this are mainly
used for the sewing of leather, artificial leather and
plastic materials.
Round needle points
Cutting needle points
Needle

Throat plate
Throat plate is a static
component which has slots
for the feed dogs and one of
more holes for needles of a
slot for swing needle
machines such as a zigzag.
Presser foot
The presser foot is attached
to the pressure bar. Presser
foot hold the material against
the throat plate and prevent
it shifting.
Feed dogs
The basic function of the feed
dogs is to move the fabric
forward by a distance equal
to the stitch length.
Sewing thread
Almost all garments produced have one component
in common : the sewing thread .
Sewing thread type
• Cotton – threads made from cotton fibers
• Synthetics – mainly made from nylon, polyester,
rayon and polyamide.
• Core spun – this has a continuous filament
polyester core wrapped in cotton fibers which
produces a strong thread with excellent sew ability.

Stitches
STITCH-
When loops of one and more threads are interlacing,
interlocking and interloping with each other during
sewing and the the structure is created known as
stitch.
The basic classes in British Standard 3870 part 1 are :-
Stitches are divided into 8 classes –
1. Class-100 (Chain Stitch),
2. Class-200 (Hand Stitch),
3. Class-300 (Lock Stitch),
4. Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch),
5. Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch),
6. Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)
7. Class-700 (Single thread lock stitch)
8. Class-800
Class-100 (Chain Stitch),
Chain stitches typically used for basting, felling, and
blind stitching.
Class 100 is of three type 101, 103 and 104. these
stitches are used in hemming, belt loop and felling.

Stitches
Class 200- Originally hand stitches, these are mostly
formed by single threads passed from one side of the
material to the other with each successive penetration
of the needle.
Class 200 is of four type these stitches are running
stitch, back stitch, diagonal basting and button hole
stitch.
Class 300- These are also referred to as lock stitches
because the top and under groups of threads are
interlaced to form the stitch.
Class 300 is of four type 301, 304, 308 and 309. these
stitches are used in innerwear and for some decorative
purpose.

Stitches
Class 400- Formed by two or more groups of threads,
the loops of which are interlaced and interloped is a
stitch formed from two threads and is widely used for
knitted materials.
Class 400 is of three type 401, 404 and 406 use for
setting elastic and for decorative stitch.
Class 500- These are known as over edge stitches
because at least one group of threads covers the edge
of the material.
Class 500 is of three type 503, 504 and 512. these
stitches are used for finish edge of knitted materials
and for sports wear.

Stitches
Class 600- There are many complex stitch formation in
this class because the stitches can be formed from
three nine threads and the use of up to four needles.
Class 600 is of three types- 602, 605 and 607. These
types of stitch is used for knits, lingerie, binding
elastics, decoration, etc.
Class 700- This single thread lock stitch similar to the
300 class, which has very limited applications because
of its inherent weakness.
Class 800- This class covers combinations of two or
more stitch classes which are sewn simultaneously, like
the five thread safety stitch.

SEAMS
SEAMS-
Class 1- superimposed this seam is constructed with a
minimum of two components and is the most widely
used seam constructed in this class.
Class 2- lapped the best example of this class is the
lapped seam construction used for many denim articles
and for certain types of blouses and shirts
Class 3- bound used for constructing a decorative edge
binding from self or other material such as tape
Class 4- flat in this class seam edges do not overlap but
are butted
Class 5- decorative this construction consists of a row
or rows of stitches sewn through one or more plies of
fabric.
Class 7- these are sometimes called applied seams
because they are mainly used to apply a decorative
material to an edge or seam.
Class 8- constructed from one ply of the fabric only, this
class is commonly used for belts and belt loop.

Seam
Class 2
Lapped seam
Class 1
Superimposed seam

Seam
Class 3
Bound seam
Class 4
Flat seam

Seam
Class 5
Decorative seam
Class 6
Edge neatening

Seam
Class 7
Applied seam
Class 8
Single ply construction

The Principle Of Pressing Technology

Pressing can be defined as a process which changes
the geometric fibre structure of the area being
pressed by the controlled application of heat, steam
and pressure. In this removing a crease from a
garment involves the same change of fibre lay as that
required to open a seam or to press a hem.
Every type of product manufactured by the clothing
industry is pressed either during and at the end of its
assembly or at the end only.
Classification Of Pressing
Under pressing
Top pressing
Under Pressing- This terms covers all of the
operations performed on garments during their
assembly. Seam opening, dart pressing and the
pressing of flaps.
Time
Steam
Pressure
Drying
Components Of Pressing
Steam - Steam use to relax the fiber structure of the
fabric and make it piable enough to be molded by
pressure.
Top Pressing- It is referred to as off-pressing, this
group includes all the operations used to finish
garments when they been completely assembled.

Pressure - After steaming manual or mechanical
pressure is used to change the geometric fiber lay of
the area being pressed. After softening the fiber
formation by steam and the application of pressure,
each side of the seam has been folded back through
180˚ to lay flat on the component.
Drying - The drying process is usually performed by a
central vacuum pump which is connected to the
pressing units, or by pumps built into the machine
itself. The vacuum action removes the residual
moisture from the material while it is laying on the
pressing area.
Time - The length of time to which a component are
garment is subjected to steaming, pressure and drying
is a combined function of steam temperature,
garment construction and the physical properties of
the fabric being pressed. Whilst, there are no fixed
rules for the duration of these components.
1.0
Sewn seam
Pressed open
Pressure

Machinery And Equipment –
The pressing department remained the technology
logical orphan of clothing factories and it is only since
the early 1980s that pressing has become a high-tech
operation . For many years pressing machines were
built around the traditional tailoring methods of
pressing but with the advent of synthetic material.
The major lines of development are described here :-
• Programming
• Combination
• Waiting time
• Flexibility
Types of machinery and equipment :-
• Hand irons
• The form finishing machine
• The small cabinet press
• The tunnel finisher
Cabinet press Form finishing machine
Hand iron The tunnel finisher

Finishing - finishing covers all the operations required
to complete the garment. For the most garments this
process starts after top pressing. As some of the
process which are important for garment finishing
are:-
Attaching buttons - Attaching buttons has two stages :-
Marking-
• button positions requires overall symmetry of the
garment.
• The exact spacing in order to flat laying.
• The specified warp allowance must be observed.
• With stripes of checked fabric pattern symmetry is
essential.
Sewing- The buttons of classic shirt and blouse
samples are generally sewn on during production by
automatic button sewers. These machines can be set
for specific spacing's and the buttons are automatically
fed top the button clamp. Buttons should not be sewn
onto garments which will be subjected to pressure
during their top pressing.
Labels - Labels are of great benefit for the wearer, and
an important aspect of finishing sample garments is to
ensure that the correct labels are n the right positions.
Some labels are attached during the production of the
sample, whilst others are sewn on when garment is
being finished.
Cleaning - The last stage of the finishing process is to
thoroughly clean the garment of all threads ends and
stains. This means that the sample has to be gone over
very carefully because nothing gives a worse
impression to a buyer than trailing threads or
unremoved stains on the inside or outside of the
garment.
Labels
Care label Size label

Inspection –
Inspection is crucial for sample garments because
apart from design considerations, there are a number
of important factors involved. The factors and
principles are:-
Fitting Quality- There are two basic approaches to
fitting quality. The one used may be company policy or
may be based on more custom and usage and this
dictates how the sample room has to work. The two
approaches are :-
• Live models
• Workroom stands
Measurements- An integral part of the inspection of
samples is the checking of finished measurements.
Whilst measurements do not fully indicate fitting
quality checking is necessary especially if the garment
has to conform to a customer’s measurements
specification.
Viewing The Garment- The most effective method of
viewing a sample garment to inspect its detailed and
general appearance is to look at it in the same way as
the consumer does in a shop, but with the professional
eye.
Quality Standards- The inspection of a sample
garment has to be relevant to its price and target
market. There is no practical reason to apply stringent
quality standards to sample which, if mass produced,
will only undergo the most rudimentary of inspection
procedures. It is often said that thing should be done
only as well it needs to be done, and this is very true of
clothing.

The Sample Room
In factories, production unites work on bulk and
according to pre-planned production processes and
inspection routine. The sample room also
manufactures clothing but its production is strongly is
strongly characterized by the intermittent nature of its
working. Sample production contains a large number
of standard operations, new operations are continually
being developed and sometimes these necessitate a
considerable amount of time and error work.
Production Method - If anything is key to the
production methods used in the sample room it is the
scale of operation. The following two examples
examines the major disparities between the small- and
large scale production of samples.
• Large Scale
• Small Scale
• Factory Produced Samples
Personnel And Responsibilities - As mentioned
previously, the sample room staff have to posses the
professional attributes needed for the production of
samples. Every operator has a definite area of
responsibility regarding their own work and that of
their co- workers.
The sample room

The communication of information is an integral part
of the day-to-day working routine in the design
department. The garment identification system used
within the company. The form of the information
which has to be communicated to other departments
on the completion and handing over of the sample
garment. In all instances the accuracy of the
information transmitted is important because there is
no place for guesswork in an organization which wants
to be efficient.
Designer To Staff- Once the decision has been
taken to develop a particular design, the design will
remain only an idea unless it is translated into a
garment. This means that the designer has to
prepare design specification which is a detailed
and precise presentation of the planned design and
technical objective of the garment. Some of the
items which a design specification should contain
are:
• Working sketch
• Size and measurements
• Special processes
• Fabrics
• Trimmings
• Labels
Communication
X 0 0 0 0 X 0 0 0 0 X X
Garment No. Season Phase No
.
Consecutive number
per garment category
Skirt 1 Spring 1 1 01
Trouser 2 Spring 2 2
Dresses 3 Summ
er
1 3
Blouses 4 Autum
n
1 4
Vests 5 Winter 1 5
Jackets 6 Winter 2 6 99
3 5 2 6
Dress
Winter Phase 1
Consecutive No.
Numbering method
Working style method
Principles of style numbering system

SPECIFICATION SHEET
SUPPLIER
SEASON/ PAHSE DESCRIPTION MARKET SIZE RANGESAMPLE SIZENUMBER
ITEMS NO. TYPE QUANTITY
CLOTH
SPRING/2 LEATHER
JACKET
HOME 23 22-243J0114
LINING
FUSIBLES
BUTTONS
WEST MILLS
FLADON
STOCK
STOCK
6164
7894
3267
5678 STOCK
SOURCE
465
465
SEWING THREAD MAKE-UP SPECIAL OPERATIONS
Regular+ 30/3 Standard 6mm. Top Stitching21/5
2
1
2
6
LABELS
PADS
HANGET
ASLEH
908
1024
-----------
-----------
1
1
DESIGNER
DATE

Although, management is essential for all organized
activity , and regardless of size the design
department is no exception. The formal process
whereby somebody is appointed to be in a charge of
the department means that for all practical purposes
this person is the manager and has to operate the
department with all that the word management
involves. On the other hand a large-scale
manufacturer of fashion wear would operate a big
design department which needs more space and
personnel and a great deal of applied management
skills. Where the design department is responsible
for the production of a large quantity of sample
garments, the total operation would probably be
divided into Design Section And The Sample Room .
The Principles- There are certain principles used to
design and sample sections are organized and managed
in mainly a question of scale, but whatever the
circumstances the same principles are applicable and
these include:
• Management
• Organization
• Planning And Control
• Co-ordination
• Personnel
Planning And Control- These two inseparable activities
are the tools by which management sets objectives and
is enabled to verify results. It is essential that all the
work of the design department is planned in advance
and that control systems are set up in order that the
status and progress of the plans can be evaluated. This
work has been done some processes
• Design Programmer
• Production Planning
• Reporting
Management And Organization

THANK YOU
By Varsha Karadia
Conforming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC
Dezyne E’cole College , Ajmer

Varsha Karadia , Fashion Design Student NSQF Level -6

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