This document discusses different methods for constructing crepe and satin weaves. It describes four methods for making crepe weaves: using a crepe weave or yarn on a sateen base; combining a floating weave with plain threads; reversing a small motif at intervals; and inserting one weave over another to produce an irregular effect. It also provides guidelines for determining the move number in satin weaves based on the satin number.

1. CREPE AND SATIN WEAVE
By Ashutosh Gupta

2. INTRODUCTION
Crepe weaves constitute an useful variety of simple weaves and
are also known as “crape” or “oatmeal” fabrics due to their
pebbly or crinkled (rough) surface. The size of the pebbles and
their arrangement on the fabric surface determine the type of
crepe fabric.
The crepe effect can be achieved either by the use of crepe yarns
(highly twisted) or a crepe weave, and sometimes by special
process of finishing, i.e., embossing.

3. Methods for the construction
of crepe weaves-
 Construction of crepe weaves upon
sateen base
 Combination of a floating weave with
plain threads
 By reversing a small motif
 Insertion of one weave over another.

4. Construction of crepe weaves upon sateen base
• In this case the base weave is a
sateen, upon which a chosen weave
is inserted to get the irregular effects.
This is shown in Fig. 7.1.
• At Fig. A, is shown the base sateen
weave and at Fig. B, is shown the
crepe effect obtained by insertion of
a twill weave (3/1 and 1/3) upon the
sateen base. The sateen weave has
been marked with a different
notation in order to identify the base
weave.

5. Combination of a floating weave with plain threads
• In this method a floating weave is
inserted upon a plain weave to get
the desired crepe effect as shown in
Fig.7.2
• At Fig. A, is shown the insertion
of plain weave. The arrow marks
indicate the boxes where the
floating weave is to be inserted.

6. By reversing of a small motif
• In this method a simple motif can
be chosen and reversed at
intervals within the design repeat
to get an irregular effect as shown
in Fig. 7.3.
• At A, is shown a simple motif and
at B, is shown the crepe designs
obtained by reversal of the motif
at regular intervals.

7. Insertion of one weave over another
• In this method two different weaves
are chosen and are inserted over one
another to get the desired crepe
effect as shown in the Fig. 7.4. In
order to produce an irregular effect,
at least one of the weaves should be
irregular and would be better if both
are irregular. Sateen and sateen
derivatives are generally used in this
method.
• In Fig. A, is shown a sateen
derivative and in Fig. B, is shown a 4
end sateen. In Fig. C, is shown the
crepe effect obtained by the insertion
of A over B.

10. Satin fabrics

12. Thumb rules for making satin weave
Move can not be one or less than one of the satin no.
Move no. should not be factor of satin no.
There should not be any common factor between move no. &
satin no.

17. Thank you