The document summarizes the process of replacing an underground cast iron drain line with polyethylene pipe using pipe bursting. Key steps included: 1. Setting up the pulling hole and entry hole, removing the old cast iron pipe. 2. Fusing polyethylene pipe sections together in a fusion machine and allowing them to cool before reaming the bead. 3. Positioning the fused polyethylene pipe for entry and attaching it to the cable connected to the bursting head. 4. Pulling the polyethylene pipe through the ground using a hydraulic ram as the bursting head broke up the old cast iron pipe.

1. TRIC Training Log: 06-19-04 Client: Orange Coast Plumbing, Santa Ana, CA Job: Replace 4” C. I. drain line under concrete patio at fire station Pull: 40’ / 4” / SDR17 / Downstream

2. The cast: The able crew of Orange Coast Plumbing in Santa Ana, CA.

3. The pull: 40’ under concrete, pulling hole (in foreground) is downstream. Material to be replaced is bell-and-spigot 4” cast iron.

4. Entry hole: Roughly 2.5’ x 4’ x 3.5’ deep.

5. Pulling hole: Roughly 4’ x 4” x 5’ deep.

6. Setup: Snapping out old cast iron cleanout manifold at pulling hole.

7. Head assembly: Ready to fuse the PE end cap.

8. Wonder plastic: A word on the durability and versatility of PE pipe.

9. Head assembly: Using a socket wrench to secure clevis head to PE end cap after fusion.

10. Securing pipe in jig: Note wood used to level pipe with fusing machine.

11. New specimen: A quick explanation of the pipe bursting process.

12. Fusing: Watch closely, and join ends just enough to see an even bead roll from each facing surface. Going further will weaken the joint by pushing beyond the melted material.

13. Bead reaming: After each joint has completely cooled, leave pipe in fusion jig for support and alignment during the bead reaming process (required in some areas).

14. Straight shooting: Lining up reamer with pipe.

15. The spin: Use a sturdy right-angle drill with enough torque to do the job.

16. Reaming: Note shaved bead removed by reamer blade.

17. Fusion machine: Lining up pipe in the jig.

18. Alignment: Adjust entire length of pipe from side to side or up and down to match ends as closely as possible before trimming. Some PE pipe may be slightly out of round due to storage or temperature variations. In this case, rolling the pipe in the jig can help match outside diameters.

19. Heating: Check mating surfaces again after trimming before inserting heating iron.

20. Heating iron: Factory set at 450º, here shown set at 500º. Allow a half-hour to warm up.

21. Fusing logistics: You may elect to fuse head assembly last. Putting the head on one end of the line versus the other can greatly facilitate entry positioning.

22. Cooling: For most common PE pipe sizes up to 6” diameter, a good rule of thumb is 10 minutes per joint. Pipe should remain undisturbed while cooling. See manufacturer’s specifications for further details.

23. The business end: Trimming the head assembly for fusing.

24. Before heating: Remove trimmings from jig area, being careful not to touch mating surfaces..

25. Last joint.

26. Entry hole: Note relatively tight angle of attack. Here the top of the old pipe in the ground is broken out to ease entry.

27. Positioning: Hauling pipe into place to connect to cable.

28. Almost ready: Head assembly is attached to the cable. Note orange spray paint on cable just before clevis sheath (cable terminator). This makes clevis more visible as it approaches the pulley assembly.

29. Entry: Give the cable enough room to take up any slack before tension occurs. Also be aware of which way the clevis assembly is “hinging” so that it moves in the natural direction of the pull.

30. Good start: Flexible yet durable PE pipe can negotiate tight angles. Always monitor head upon entry, to begin pull as smoothly as possible.

31. Progress: After the first few feet, the length of pipe usually needs little attention.

32. Least resistance: Monitor pipe to ensure that no unnecessary scraping or gouging occurs as line is dragged into the earth. Here the concrete edge of the entry hole was smooth enough so as not to require protection.

33. Versatile: TRIC ram can operate at any axial rotation on pulley assembly. Also, note pressure plate against utility line. If other utilities interfere with pull, pressure plate can be rotated or even removed, and steel poles driven in its place to resist pulley pressure.

34. Interference: Here another utility line makes using the extender cage precarious.

35. Remedy: Use extended cribbing instead.

36. Whatever works: Keep plenty of wood on hand. Thick plywood, 2” x 4” and 4” x 4” lumber makes setup easier, and can even save the day.

37. Helping hand: Reinserting cable into ram.

38. Freedom: Bursting head makes a complete exit, as clevis sheath (cable terminator) reaches threshold of pulley housing.

39. Made it: Mole is removed and line is ready to “bump” from other end.

40. Excess is good: Always fuse enough pipe to extend beyond entry hole at end of pull. This allows you to trim excess to optimal length for bumping.

41. Swing away: A 12 to 16-pound sledge hammer is ideal for pipe up to 6” diameter.

42. Perfect fit: Bumping from the other end to drive pipe right up to coupling. This also helps to relieve any stretching that may have occurred in pipe during longer pulls through bends and/or difficult ground conditions.

43. Flex: Relieving curve “memory” in pipe, driving a wedge between top of pipe and earth.

44. Matching up: Connecting to existing pipe upstream.

45. Cleanout: Stack reassembly.

46. Final touch: A standard cast iron to plastic coupling is used to tie into new line.

47. Customized: Note extendable bracket attached to power unit’s engine cage, to hang hydraulic hoses.

48. It’s a wrap!