fabric structure and design

1. Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric (Plain).
Object:
1. To know the fabric specification.
2. To know the raw material of fabric.
3. To produce exactly the similar fabric.
Sample: A piece of plain woven fabric.
Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Bees leys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.
Analysis:
1. Weave plan: In graph paper the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis
as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. Now indicating the up threads by
filling gaps and down threads without filling gaps the weave plan is drawn.
2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan.
Here two heal shafts are used to draw the drafting plan.
3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.
4. Face side and Back side: As the cloth is constructed with plain fabric construction, face
and back side is not same. Face side appearance is smooth and glassy than back side
appearance.
5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks
as shown in the sample. Selvedge direction is always warp direction and warp direction is
more straight and parallel than weft direction. No. of yarn in warp is more than weft.
6. Raw material: Both weft warp yarns are cotton.
7. Thread density: No. of ends per inch or EPI =57, No. of picks per inch or PPI = 54.

2. 8. Yarn count:
Warp yarn count
No. Count
xi (Ne) x=
∑x i xi − x xi − x
2
xi − x
2
∑ x −x i
2
C.V =
S .D
× 100
n n S .D = x
n
1. 26 -2 4
2. 28 0 0
3. 27 28 -1 1 2 1.41 5
4. 30 2 4
5. 29 1 1
Weft yarn count
No. Count
xi (Ne) x=
∑x i xi − x xi − x
2
xi − x
2
∑x i −x
2
C.V =
S .D
× 100
n n S .D = x
n
1. 28 -2 4
2. 31 1 1
3. 29 30 -1 1 2 1.41 4.7
4. 30 0 0
5. 32 2 4
Count of warp yarn is 28 and weft yarn is 30.
9. Yarn twist:
Warp yarn twist
No. Twist xi
x=
∑ x i xi − x xi − x
2
xi − x
2
∑x i −x
2
C.V =
S .D
x
×100
(TPI) n S .D =
n n
1. 23 0 0
2. 25 2 4
3. 21 23 -2 4 2 1.41 6
4. 24 1 1
5. 22 -1 1
Weft yarn twist
No. Twist xi
x=
∑x i xi − x xi − x
2
xi − x
2
∑ x −x i
2
C.V =
S .D
x
×100
(TPI) S .D =
n n n
1. 21 -2 4
2. 25 2 4
3. 23 23 0 0 2 1.41 6
4. 24 1 1
5. 22 -1 1
Twist of warp yarn is 23 and weft yarn is 23.
10. Twist direction: Both warp and weft yarns are twisted in ‘Z’ direction.

3. 11. Design of fabric: The fabric is designed as one up and one down. i.e. if all even numbered
warp ends are raised at one pick then all odd numbered ones are raised at other picks.
12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.05 gm.
We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm. (0.0254 m). So, 1 sq. inch = (0.0254X0.0254) sq. m.
Now,
(0.0254 × 0.0254) sq.m sample wt. = 0.05gm
∴ 1 sq. m sample wt. = 77.5 gm
Therefore GSM of fabric is 77.5gms/sq. inch
13. Repeat size: (2 × 2) The repeat contains 2 ends and 2 picks.
14. Type of loom: Tappet loom is used to produce this plain woven fabric.
15. End use: Different types of apparel such as shirt, lungi, Shari, bed sheet, bedcover, pillow
cover, and many other uses.
Conclusion: Analysis of fabric structure is very important to know about the fabric which is
needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I gathered the
knowledge how to analyses primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric which will be
very helpful in future.