India's Textile MSMEs: Driving Growth and Innovation

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INDIA, A FERTILE GROUND FOR
MSME GROWTH !
ROLE OF SMES OF INDIAN TEXTILE
INDUSTRY AFTER COVID
SMES: THE BACKBONE OF
INDUSTRY
INNOVATION & INTELLIGENCE
DRIVING MARKET
INNOVATION & MANAGEMENT
NEEDED FOR SUCCESSFUL VENTURES
SPORTS TEXTILES – YOUR ROAD TO
SUCCESS
FUTURE CHALLENGES AHEAD IN
TEXTILE EDUCATION
EFFECT OF COTTON YARNS ON
COMFORT CHARACTERISTICS
OF WOVEN FABRICS
IMPACT OF TEXTILE PRODUCTION
ON CLIMATE CHANGE
OUTSTANDING SUCCESS OF
2ND CMAI FAB SHOW
TEXPROCIL EXPORT AWARDS
PDEXCIL CELEBRATES 27 YEARS …
OPPORTUNITIES WITH EGYPT
COTTON FEDERATION
COTTON USA CELEBRATES
COTTON DAY
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INDUSTRIAL POLICY
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85: Uniform And
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34: LUWA
35: GSCS
40: SSPL

6
EDITORIAL
Textile Value Chain
In India, the small industry, especially in the garment
and textile sectors, have enjoyed favourable treatment
from the Government. This is one of the major reasons
for the mushrooming of MSMEs across the country.
The Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) was
launched in 2005 to encourage private investments and
employment generation in textile sector. The scheme
targets industrial clusters/locations with high growth
potential, which require strategic interventions by way
of providing world-class infrastructure support. A
total of 59 textile parks have been sanctioned under
SITP by the Ministry of Textiles, out of which 22 textile
parks have been completed. Under the Scheme for
Integrated Textile Park (SITP), some 26,282 people
in Gujarat got employed in textile parks followed by
Maharashtra (22,910), Andhra Pradesh (19,137) and
Tamil Nadu (9,995). The ITP scheme was intended to
cover all segments of the textile industry from spinning,
weaving to garmenting. The Ministry is implementing
the Integrated Processing Development Scheme
(IPDS) for enabling the textile processing sector to
meet environmental standards through adoption of
appropriate technology, specifically in the area of water
and waste water management. The Scheme is a demand
driven scheme. The Ministry has sanctioned 7 Projects
under the IPDS for setting up ‘Common Effluent
Treatment plants’ (CETPs) with Zero Liquid Discharge
(ZLD) systems out of which 3 projects are in Rajasthan,
3 projects in Tamil Nadu and 1 project in Gujarat. Also,
required CETPs may be included in SITP proposal
under ‘Common Facility’ component.
The cluster-based approach is increasingly being
recognized as one of the strategies for cost effective,
inclusive, sustainable and integrated development
of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs),
the world over. The textile sector in India has been
struggling to compete in the global market, due to loss
in cost competitiveness and inability to move up the
value chain. Integrated textile parks can play a major
role in addressing these obstacles and enable the sector
to win back lost glory in the global market.
MSMEs on cusp of big growth!
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been made to ensure and present factual and accurate
information. The views expressed in the articles
published in this magazine are that of the respective
authors and not necessarily that of the publisher.
Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the
information provided herewith.
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Ms. Jigna Shah
ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING
Mr. Samuel Joseph
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8
36
1 - 10 NOV 2022
BAGHDAD INTERNATIONAL FAIR
Baghdad , Iraq
4 - 6 NOV 2022
UNIFORMS SPORTSWEAR EXPO
Mumbai, India
8 - 9 NOV 2022
INDIAN PETROCHEM – 2022
Mumbai, India
8 - 10 NOV 2022
SOURCE TEXTILE & APPAREL EXPO
Lagos, Nigeria
15 - 17 NOV 2022
ADVANCED RECYCLING CONFERENCE
Cologne , Germany
24 - 26 NOV 2022
INTERDYE & TEXTILE PRINTING EURASIA
Istanbul, Turkey
24 - 26 NOV 2022
INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE STRUTEX 2022
Liberec, New Republic
EVENTS
-
NOVember

10
A Step Towards Textile 4.0
Digitization and digitalization are parts of a digital transformation. In short, Digitization is concerned with events that have
already occurred. Digitalization is concerned with current events. Digital transformation refers to events that will occur in
the future.
DIGITIZATION DIGITALIZATION DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION
Digitization is about the
conversion of analogue data to
digital data for all assets,
processes, and measurements.
Digitalization involves data-
driven applications, data
integration, analytics, and
metrics with the purpose of
m a k i n g p r o c e s s e s m o r e
automated using digital data.
Digitalization adds value by
improving the delivery of
products. Digitalization is related
to business processes.
Digital Transformation is the
process of fundamentally
utilizing digital technologies, and
it refers to the cultural shifts to
better or replace what was
previously available. Digital
Transformation is defined in
simple language as the novel use
o f d i g i t a l t e c h n o l o g y t o
accelerate business strategy.
Digitization Benefits:
1. Faster access to information
2. Easier to store at much less
cost
3. Improved digital preservation
4. Easy to retrieve & ability for
integration
5. Sharing data easily
Digitalization Benefits:
1. Efficiency & Productivity
Improvements
2. Improved transparency
3. Faster & better Decision
Making
4. Improved Customer
satisfaction
5. Enhances & transforms an
existing business process or
processes.
6. Converts a process from a
human-driven event to a
software-driven event
Digital Transformation Benefits:
1. Helps businesses grow into
new areas, introduce new
goods, and attract new
customers.
2. Creates a comprehensive
change to a company's
business strategy.
3. Digital transformation is an
ongoing process, not a one-
time activity.
4. It introduces new business
models and alters the way
businesses are conducted.
5. It aims at ensuring that the
end consumer is satisfied,
which is the centre point of
doing business.
lHowDigitalizationAffectstheTextileIndustry
Topics to be Covered

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14
In India, small has always been not only beautiful
but also strong! Especially, the textile industry, the
mother of all industries catering to the apparel needs
of the country, has grown well beyond all expectations.
MSMEs account for almost 90% of all enterprises in
the country. And contributes 35% to its annual GDP.
MSME sector has been a key contributor to the India’s
GDP and even during the pandemic times, it showed
tremendous resilience, helping the economy recover
faster from the lockdown market depression. One of
the key sectors that have outshone others and registered
tremendous growth is the textile and apparel MSMEs.
Very recently, the Government has doubled the paid-
up capital and turnover eligibility thresholds for small
companies, which will help more businesses and
startups get access to the lighter compliance regime for
such entities under the Companies Act, 2013. According
to a Ministry of Corporate Affairs (MCA) notification,
any company with a paid-up capital up to ₹4 crore and
turnover as much as ₹40 crore would be considered a
small company.
This is the second revision in about just 18 months -- the
limit was raised to ₹2 crore and ₹20 crore, respectively,
on April 1. Small companies are not required to include
cash flow statements in their financial reports, need
hold only two board meetings a year as opposed to at
least four for others, and do not have to rotate auditors
every five years. They can file abridged annual returns
and these can be signed by the company secretary
or a director of the company. Most of the statutory
documents of small companies needn’t be signed by a
practicing professional such as a chartered accountant.
Earlier, in June 2020, the Union Cabinet approved the
revision of MSME’s definition based on turnover size
and investment limit. The new definitions were as
follows:
•Microunits–investmentuptoRs.1croreandturnover
below Rs. 5 crore
• Small units – investment up to Rs. 10 crore and
turnover below Rs. 50 crore
• Medium units – investment up to Rs. 50 crore and
turnover below Rs. 250 crore
The new MSME definitions allowed many medium,
small, and micro units to continue their “MSME” status
under the revised guidelines. And avail of the various
benefits for pandemic-relief, exclusively available to the
MSMEs, including the collateral-free SME loan facility
introduced by the Centre, from any bank/NBFC.
Rewinding to 2021, the Union Budget 2021 announced
India would be setting up seven Mega-Integrated
Textile Region and Apparel (MITRA) parks. This move
is expected to double the industry size to US$ 300
billion by attracting large investments and boosting
employment. Consequently, make the country’s textile
sector, a globally competitive manufacturing and export
hub. Besides MITRA development, additional perks
like GST reduction will help the SME-MSMEs free up
capital to invest in key growth drivers like technological
upgrades, new-age marketing tools, state-of-the-art
infrastructure, and more.
MSMEs, which account for almost 90% of all enterprises
in the country, contributes 35% to its annual GDP. The
GST council has already decided that any firm with a
turnover of Rs. 40 lakh less need no longer register
under the GST. This has come as a boon to the small
players. The small industries have got a shot-in-the-
arm recently with the latest revision to facilitate Ease of
Doing Business further and reduce compliance burden
on “small companies.” The Ministry of Corporate
Affairs (MCA) has taken several measures in the recent
past towards ease of doing business and ease of living
for the corporates. These included decriminalisation
of various provisions of the Companies Act, 2013
India, a fertile Ground for
MSME Growth !
- Samuel Joseph
C O V E R S T O R Y

the LLP Act, 2008, extending fast track mergers to start ups, incentivising
incorporation of One Person Companies (OPCs) etc. Earlier, definition
of “small companies” under the Companies Act, 2013 was revised by
increasing their thresholds for paid up capital from “not exceeding Rs
50 lakh” to “not exceeding Rs 2 crore” and turnover from “not exceeding
Rs 2 crore” to “not exceeding Rs 20 crore”. This definition has, now, been
further revised by increasing such thresholds for paid up Capital from “not
exceeding Rs. 2 crore” to “not exceeding Rs. 4 crore” and turnover from
“not exceeding Rs. 20 crore” to “not exceeding Rs. 40 crore.”
The Modi government’s post-Covid flagship credit scheme for MSMEs
Emergency Credit Line Guarantee Scheme (ECLGS) has benefitted around
1.19 crore businesses as of June 30, 2022. Launched in May 2020, the scheme
has sanctioned collateral-free loans amounting to Rs 3.48 lakh crore till
June end. Sharing the data from the Department of Financial Services in
the Lok Sabha recently, Minister of State for MSMEs Bhanu Pratap Singh
Verma noted that out of the total ECLGS beneficiary count, 1.13 crore were
MSMEs (95 per cent) while the amount sanctioned to MSMEs stood at Rs
2.32 lakh crore (66 per cent) out of the total sanctioned.
While the data on total disbursements under the Rs 5-lakh-crore ECLGS
scheme was not shared by the Government, the Reserve Bank of India
(RBI) in its latest Financial Stability Report (June 2022) had noted that Rs
2.54 lakh crore loans were disbursed till April 30, 2022.
“Thetextileapparelindustry’scontributiontothecountry’sGDPisaround
5% and in terms of industrial output, the TA accounts for 7% of the total
value, making it one of the most promising industries in India. In fact, the
TA industry in India is one of the largest industries in the world and also
the second largest employer in the country. It has generated approximately
45 million jobs directly and over 60 million jobs in allied industries. There
have been multiple driving forces behind the monumental growth of the
industry and realizing the full potential of each of these dynamics can help
the MSMEs to unlock greater employment opportunities for the Indian
workforce,” says an investment expert.
“Being the world’s 5th biggest TA exporter, the industry enjoys a 4% share
of the $840 billion global markets. The textile exports accounted for US$
22.89 billion between April 2021 and October 2021. IBEF also suggests that
the TA exports growing at a solid CAGR of 11% are expected to cross
$100 bn in the next 5 years. Increasing the exports not only creates foreign
reserves but also opens doors for better employment opportunities in the
country. Developing MSMEs in the sector to boost exports can create an
additional 75 lakh to 1 crore jobs – which is quite a number taking into
consideration that the unemployment rate in India stands at 7%,” says the
investment source.
Textile Ministry along with the
Finance Minister in the Union
Budget announced several schemes
and programmes to support and
strengthen the industry. One such
announcement for setting up seven
mega textile parks across India is a
welcoming move that will increase
employment opportunities as
well as boost the MSME growth.
Another landmark proposal of
the Government has been the
announcement of production-
linked incentives (PLI) worth
$1.4bn that will prove instrumental
in realizing the capacity potential
of TA manufacturing units.
Anticipating the significant role of
the industry to create employment,
the government has undertaken
multiple reforms and plans to
introduce labour-friendly schemes.
Forexample,undertheEPFscheme,
the Govt. of India will bear 12% of
the garment industry employers’
contribution to the EPF for new
employees earning lesser than INR
15,000/month, for the first 3 years.
This reform will ensure that the
workers get more in-hand wages,
thus promoting employment in the
formal sector,” he further added.
Small companies represent the
entrepreneurial aspirations and
innovation capabilities of lakhs of
citizens and contribute to growth
and employment in a significant
manner. The Government has
always been committed to taking
measures wXXXXXhich create
a more conducive business
environment for law-abiding
companies, including reduction
of compliance burden on such
companies.
Some of the benefits of reduction
in compliance burden as a result
of the revised definition for small
companies are as under: No need
to prepare cash flow statement
as part of financial statement;
Advantage of preparing and filing
an Abridged Annual Return;
Mandatory rotation of auditor not
required; An Auditor of a small
company is not required to report
on the adequacy of the internal
financial controls and its operating
effectiveness in the auditor’s

16
report; Holding of only two board
meetings in a year; Annual Return
of the company can be signed by the
company secretary, or where there is
no company secretary, by a director
of the company; Lesser penalties for
small companies.
Loans amounting to Rs 3.32 lakh
crore were sanctioned under the
Emergency Credit Line Guarantee
Scheme (ECLGS) till April 30, 2022,
of which Rs 2.54 lakh crore amount
was disbursed, the Reserve Bank of
India (RBI) said in its latest Financial
Stability Report.
As informed by the National Credit
Guarantee Trustee Company
Limited, the agency which operates
the Emergency Credit Line
Guarantee Scheme (ECLGS), as
on 11.3.2022, a total of 117.87 lakh
businesses have been supported
with 100% guaranteed collateral free
loans under ECLGS of which about
95.21% were MSMEs. This was
stated by Union Minister of State for
Finance Dr Bhagwat Kisanrao Karad
in a written reply to a question in
Rajya Sabha recently.
The Minister stated that the ECLGS
was launched in May 2020 as part of
the Aatmanirbhar Bharat Abhiyaan
to support eligible Micro, Small and
Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) and
other eligible business enterprises in
meeting their operational liabilities
and restarting their businesses in the
context of the disruption caused by
the COVID-19 pandemic. It covered
all the sectors of the economy. 100%
guarantee is provided to Member
Lending Institutions (MLIs) in
respect of the credit facility extended
by them under the scheme to eligible
borrowers, the Minister added.
The Minister also stated that
pursuant to an announcement made
bytheFinanceMinisterinherspeech
on the Union Budget 2022-23 that
ECLGS will be extended till March
2023, Government has extended the
scheme by one year, till 31.3.2023.
Giving more details, the Minister
stated that the structure of scheme
allows easy access to credit as the
lenders offer pre- approved loans
based on borrower’s existing credit
outstanding and there is no fresh
appraisal undertaken by lenders since additional credit is sanctioned over
and above the credit facilities already assessed. Further, the interest rate is
also capped with a view to lower the cost of credit and loans are sanctioned
without any processing charges, pre- payment charges and guarantee fee.
On a question on RBI’s views on the MSME sector, the Minister stated that
RBI has observed in its Financial Stability Report, December 2021 that
MSMEs are reflecting signs of stress. In this connection, RBI has informed
that the MSME portfolios of Commercial banks indicate accumulation in
the non-performing asset and special mention account – 2 categories in
September 2021, relative to March 2021.
Advancements in digital textile technologies: The investments in textile
technologies have been increasing year on year and with the Government’s
liberal assistance under programmes such as Technology Upgradation
Fund Scheme (TUFS) providing investments as well as subsidies, the
textile industry is poised for illustrious growth in the coming years.
Khadi and Village Industries Commission under the Ministry of MSME
is also taking active measures to boost the growth of micro and small-
scale textile industries in rural areas. As per the scheme, over 10,000
people were trained in 2020-2021 through various training centres of
KVIC (departmental as well as non-departmental). This will create self-
employment and entrepreneurial opportunities and rural development.
TA sector is one such industry where women account for approximately
60-70% of the total workforce. More than 27 million women in India
are employed in the textile and apparel sector. The growing employment
opportunities would mean more jobs for women, thus increasing the
participation and contribution of the women’s workforce in the Indian
economy.
The textile and apparel industry is on a rise and even with the stiff
international competition from Asian countries such as Bangladesh,
Vietnam, etc., the future of the industry seems brighter owning to its
endowed advantages of vast raw material supply (India is amongst the
largest producer of cotton yarn and fabric), ample availability of human
resources, and faster adoption of advanced textile technologies. Given
the sector is able to sustain and increase the domestic as well as export
growth, the industry will be able to become of the most lucrative sectors
for creating employment and job opportunities for skilled, semi-skilled as
well as a portion of unskilled workforce, directly or indirectly.

19
Covid 19 / Corona Virus made our life fearful, but there
is always a spark of light in the dark environment. India
being an opportunist country and Jugad based economy,
Indian has flourished in the difficult situation, and we
are 2nd highest supplier of PPE kits in the world during
this difficult period. In a short span of time, Indian has
transferred operation from conventional garment / fabric
units to PPE kits units. India has always proved to be in
the front when it calls for low cost innovations, whereby
an appreciation needs to be recorded for those SMEs
especially ITAMMA members who have developed the
mask making and automatic sanitizer disposal machines
and disinfection chambers during the crucial and
challenging Lockdown period.
Thus during COVID-19 situation it is also noticed that
the demand for man-made fibre (MMF) textiles all
over the world is increasing as a substitute for cotton
amid changes in global fashion trends. Currently MMF
dominates global textile fibre consumption with 72: 28
ratio i.e., MMF 72% and 28% is Natural fibre. The share
of MMF has been steadily increasing due to the inherent
limitations of growth of cotton and other natural fibres.
Global end-use demand for textile fibres is forecast to
expand by an average of 2.80% per annum between 2015
and 2025, from 90.10 mn tons to 119.20 mn tons and
global end-use demand for man-made fibres is expected
to increase by 3.7% in 2025.
Also it is very important to note that in 2020, Artificial
Textile Machinery were the world’s 916th most traded
product, with a total trade of $887M. Whereby the top
exporters of Artificial Textile Machinery were Germany
($362M), China ($239M), Japan ($91.1M), Italy ($86M),
and United States ($34.4M). While top importers were
China ($303M), Turkey ($123M), Japan ($72.8M),
Vietnam ($43.8M), and Russia ($42.4M).
A ~$2.5 bn textile machine industry which is growing
at 5% currently reflects on the growing strength of this
sub-segment in the textiles value chain in India.
Looking at the Global scenario, Indian Govt. is also
promoting man-made fibres and thus it is an alarm as
well as opportunity to Textile Machinery Manufacturers
for the development of machines and components
especially for the processing of these fibres and also to
the User Industry to decide the appropriate Machine
Maintenance Management in order to have a smooth
functioning of these MMF. Specifically those SME
Enterprises working under Cluster activity in the
decentralized sectors needs to revamp/restructure their
Maintenance Management in a very systematic way in
order to acquire the high performance functioning of
these fibres.
“3D printing technology” will be playing a very vital
role in the changing trends of Man-Made Textiles, not
only in the stream of Fashion designing but also in the
Safety Textiles and its machineries. This Technology
offers enormous opportunities in production, design
and performance.
The benefits of additive manufacturing on supply chains
takes many forms. It reduces material waste, simplifies
production processes, and the on-demand production
offered by additive manufacturing improves supply
chain flexibility because the finished product can be
manufactured in proximity to the end-user.
Customers can acquire products, spare parts, and goods
as needed, and businesses can produce parts as needed
or forecast. Since a single 3D printer can produce a
complete part without the need for tooling, it reduces
dependence on fixtures and lowers production time.
The application of additive manufacturing, well known
as 3D printing, in textile industry is not more totally new.
It is giving significant increase of the product variety,
production stages reduction, widens the application
areas of textiles, customization of design and properties
of products according to the type of applications
requirement.
The advancing technical possibilities in 3D printing
and 3D scanning make developments possible that
will revolutionize production and trade in the fashion
Role of SMEs of Indian
Textile Industry after Covid
- N D Mhatre, Director General (Tech.) , ITAMMA
C O V E R S T O R Y

and textile industry. Clothing and shoes will soon be coming out of the
3D printer in an individualized way, new possibilities will open up for
functional textiles, and 4D printing will take the 3D process to a new level
with fascinating applications.
Not only 3D printing, 3D technology itself is changing the entire value chain
in the apparel industry from design and prototyping to the finished product
and its delivery.
Up to now, the designer has designed a product with two-dimensional
materials and then created one or more cost-intensive prototypes and
sample collections before the product could go into mass production. These
cost drivers can now be replaced by a virtual 3D simulation. The software
is now mature enough to test cuts on virtual size avatars as well as colors
and patterns. The folds and movement of the avatars are also realistically
simulated.
The 3D simulation makes the creation of the collection faster, more accurate
and more cost-effective. If the prototype production is shortened, idle times
and waiting times are eliminated and variants are possible at any time. This
gives the company more flexibility and enables it to react much faster to new
trends.
In the production of technical textiles, the main focus is on functional
properties. For textile companies, 3D printing processes open up possibilities
that cannot be realized with conventional processes. Elements such as plug-
in connections can be applied directly to textile surfaces using 3D printing.
In this way, textiles are created that integrate functionalities right from the
start.
However, the use of 3D printers in the production of textiles is extremely
complex, as plastic filaments are not used as usual.
Possible applications include tailor-made components made of narrow
textilesandplasticsfortechnicalapplications,theapplicationof3Dstructural
elements for textile sun and noise protection, sportswear and the application
of adapted mould reinforcements for protective and functional clothing.
By using 3D printing in production, the textile industry can not only
functionally optimize its products right from the start, but production steps
such as cutting, sewing or gluing functional components to a textile can
even be saved in this way.
For 4D biometric printing, the researchers use a special hydrogel that
contains cellulose fibres and transforms into an appropriate form upon
contact with liquid. Areas in which the hydrogel could be used range from
biomedicine and robotics to textile production and electronics.
The digitalization of the textile industry and further development of 3D/4D
technology is leading to a strong change in the industry. In the near future,
tailor-made products will become realistic for consumers, production will
be replaced by flexible production
facilities at the point of sale
and innovative applications for
functional and smart textiles will
be developed. The environment
also benefits from the elimination
of transport routes and textile waste
generated during production.
Therearemorethan3,000companies
involved in the manufacturing of
textile machineries, accessories,
and trading of equipment in India.
The industry not only caters to
rising domestic demand but also
has the potential to establish
India as an export hub for textile
machinery with spinning machines
representing the largest export
opportunity.
With the help of Make in India
drive, followed by ATMA Nirbhar
Bharat and well supported by Vocal
for Local, India is on the path
of becoming the hub for hi-tech
manufacturing. Whereby global
giants have either set up or are in
process of setting up manufacturing
plants in India, thus many textile
machine companies in the country
are joining hands with their
western counterparts to produce
technologically advanced machines.
And accordingly we at ITAMMA,
focused all our activities to improve
the technological capability of
our member companies through
various Technology Development
Programmes like 5S, Lean,
Design Clinics, Energy Audits,
Yellow belt trainings etc. under
Cluster Development initiatives,
in order to help them to have a
sustainable growth in today’s smart
manufacturing competitive global
market.
This hard time have made us tough,
and realize the importance of safety
products and measures, for survival
as well as a hope of sustainable
business reminding us about the
importance of silver lining at
horizon. ITAMMA have always
stood with the members in the
changing trends and shall continue
thesameinthischallengingsituation
also through its activities to improve
the technological capability of our
member companies.

22
SMEs: The Backbone of Industry
- Gargi Dandegaonkar, TVC Team
C O V E R S T O R Y
The Small and Medium Size Enterprises play pivotal
role in the Indian Economy. This fact was highlighted
by our Union Finance Minister while giving out the
Union Budget for the year 2022. These SMEs are
considered as the growth drivers, not only in India,
but for any economy all over the world. They are
seen as source for getting rid of poverty, especially
in a developing country like ours. Globalisation and
free trade have helped in getting new and profitable
opportunities for these SMEs. However, the true
potential of these SMEs is yet to be realized, mainly
due to the challenges that haunt the industry.
A large part of the Indian Industry is made up by
the SMEs. These SMEs have characteristics like
short gestation period and low administrative costs.
Moreover, they are labour intensive in nature and
have a large potential for employment generation.
They also help in inducing growth of the industrially
backward regions, which in turn ensures a balanced
regional development.
The Indian Textile Industry
The Indian Textile Industry is one of the oldest
industries in the country. Often called a mother
industry, the textile industry is the second largest
employment generating industry in India, second to
agriculture. It is one of the largest yarns producing
industry, as a whole on the international level. India
is a world leader when it comes to production of jute
fibre, second when it comes to production of silk
and is amongst the top producers for cellulosic and
synthetic yarns as well. The textile industry is directly
connected to the rural economy of our country as
major part of our agricultural land is in the rural
areas Furthermore, the local handicraft artisans who
utilise these fibres are also a part of these rural areas
and have been carrying the trade from generations
together, passing on this artistic legacy to the newer
generations as they come. The cotton cultivation that
is done in India accounts for the home textile and
apparel segment which constitute the major part of
the textile industry. Most of this production is carried
outinfragmentedunitsscatteredintownsandvillages
across the country and account for the SMEs of India.
The SMEs in Indian textile industry are a result of
the numerous government-led initiatives and various
incentives provided for these ‘Lahu-Udyogs’ under
different schemes. One such example is the recent
‘Make in India’ campaign which is focussed on
generating domestic employment for the youth and
utilising the strong raw material base in our country
with the help of the innumerable skilled and unskilled
personnel, cheap labour and a promising export
potential. The textile industry is fragmented, yet is
accounts for a significant part in the Indian economy.
Indian Textile SMEs: A ray of Hope
The Indian textile industry constitute of numerous
clustered and independent SMEs. This is one of the
advantages of the industry as it makes it self-reliant
and independent. It also brings in the much need
flexibility in the processing of the textiles across the
entire value chain. Moreover, with a handy stock of
raw material and the abundance of resources these
SMEs can use in their design expertise to generate
high-quality products with enough variations for the
customers. The SMEs generate employment which
in turn has many positive social impacts as well,
like an improved standard of living, low crime rates
due to availability of money and awareness about
social causes like education, generated by the general
socio-cultural programmes held for the workers at
their workplace, to name a few. All this eventually
leads to regional development using technological
advancements and it eventually contributes to the
National Economic Growth.

23
The Challenges in Store for the Indian Textile SMEs and How to
Overcome Them
The situation of the SMEs in India may seem promising and glittery on
the outer end. However, there are few challenges that these industries
face, which are as follows:
• High Cost to Credit
• Collateral Requirements
• Limited Access to Equity Capital
• Timely Procurement of Raw Materials
• Problems of Storage, Designing, Packaging and Product Display
• Lack of or Limited Access to the Global Markets
• Inadequate infrastructure facilities, including power, water, road,
etc.
• Lack of Access to the Latest Technological Developments
• Lack of skilled manpower for process of manufacturing and
marketing
• Branding and Marketing
These challenges have a few logical and ready to be implemented
solutions available. This includes imbibing best innovation practices
that are accepted globally, adopting and using the latest technologies
for product development and marketing, creating reliable networks and
effective management in across the supply chain.
On a larger level, use of renewable energy sources to ensure cost-cutting
the in the manufacturing process, establishment of Innovation Centres
or Centres of Excellence for the textile industry, setting up of Special
Economic Zones dedicated to textile industry, granting tax incentives,
developing a partnership amongst the stakeholders, empowering
women, integrating the industry, quality improvement, appropriate
marketing across the globe, exhibitions and guidance centres for the
local people involved, promoting lean manufacturing techniques,
carving out niche schemes specifically designed for the textile SMEs are
some of the measures that can be taken to improve the existing structure
of the Indian textile SMEs.
References:
•CII (2006) State of Economy, January.
• Compendium of Textile Statistics
2003 2006 Office of the Textile
Commissioner,Ministry of Textiles,
Govt. of India.
• Confederation of Indian Textile
Industry (CITI) (2007-08) Annual
Report 2007-08.
• CRISIL-NMCC (March 2009)
Enhancing Competitiveness of Indian
Manufacturing Industry: Assistance
in Policy Making, Final Report
submitted to National Manufacturing
Competitiveness Council.
• CSO Annual Survey of Industries,
Summary Result for the Factory Sector,
Variousissues.
• CSO National Account Statistics
(various years).
• FICCI (2005) ‘Ending of MFA and
Indian Textile Industry’ New Delhi.
• DGCIS (2006) Foreign Trade
Statistics of India (PCC), Kolkatta.
• National Manufacturing
Competitiveness Council, September
(2008) Report of the Prime Minister’s
Group,MeasuresforEnsuringSustained
Growth of the Indian Manufacturing
Sector, V.Krishnamurthy, Chairman of
the Committee.
• Indian Cotton Manufacturers
Federation (ICMF) (2002-03) Annual
Report 2002-03.
• ILO (2000) Labour Practices in the
Footwear,Leather,TextilesandClothing
Industries Report for discussion at the
Tripartite Meeting on Labour Practices
in the Footwear, Leather, Textiles and
Clothing Industries (ILO Sectoral
Activities Programme, Geneva.
• J ane Korinek (2005) Trade and
Gender: Issues and Interactions (OECD
Trade Policy Working Paper No. 24).
• Kelegama S (2005) Ready Made
Garments Industry in Srilanka:
PreparingtoFacetheGlobalChallenges,
Asia Pacific Trade Investment Review,
Vol. 1, No1.
• Maurice Landes, Stephen MacDonald,
Santosh K. Singh and Thomas
Vollrath(2005) Growth Prospects of
India’s Cotton and Textile Industry.
• Working Group for Textile and Jute
industry for the Eleventh Plan (2007-
12)

3rd Floor, Dawer Chambers, Ring Road, Surat- 395 002. Gujarat, India
Phone: +91 261 4190200 / 2635541-42 | e-Mail : info@shahlon.com | Web. : www.shahlon.com
Maintaining world-class quality standards and delivering innovative products have been the foundation of
Shahlon group’s manufacturing philosophy. A system of acute quality control involving multiple tests
throughout each stage of operation is adopted, ensuring quality, efficiency and dependability of every
product.
Our wide range of yarn offerings include
Applications
Textured
We produce all types of NIM,
SIM, HIM textured and crimp
yarn, in all lustres - SD, FD as
well as BRT, using interna-
tional standard manufactur-
ing techniques.
Intermingle
Our carpet yarn offerings are
further expanded through
intermingled yarn.
Carpet
We have been exporting
various types of yarns such
as micro and high bulk to
the carpet manufacturing
industry, for products
ranging from rugs to wall to
wall carpets.
Dyed
With a capacity of producing
750 tons per month,
world-class infrastructure,
we are well-known to meet
the dyeing needs of
international and local
markets.
Space Dyed
Adding further value to
dyed yarn, we also
manufacture and supply
polyester/ viscose
space-dyed yarn.
Weaving Furnishing Laces Tapes
Carpets
Labels
Velvet
Knitting
Government Recognized
Star Export House

27
The formation of Century Enka Limited in 1965, was the result
of keen interest taken by Mr. B.K. Birla in collaboration with
AKZO Nobel of Netherlands. Over the years, it has emerged
a reputed producer of high-quality Nylon Tyre Cord Fabric
(NTCF) used as reinforcement material in bias tyres and Nylon
Filament Yarn (NFY) used mainly by apparel industry.
Century Enka is known for high quality, product innovation,
fair business practices and customer satisfaction. Mr. Sanjay
Mehrotra, Senior Vice President Marketing (Textiles), Century
Enka Limited, spoke exclusively to the Textile Value Chain
during the recent Surat Exhibition, Yarn Expo
Fourth, this category is for
sportswear. Nowadays, there is
a changing trend amongst the
younger generation. They are
going more and more towards
athleisure. Globally, nylon is
being used for this. But, in India,
Nylon is not that prominent
in circular knitting. We have
brought in a new product range
for this. We have brought in
air-textured yarns for these
microfilaments with a denier
range of 140-144, 200/144.
So, you will get the comfort,
flexibility of fabric, breathability
and other desirable qualities for
sportswear in this range.
You are one of the pioneers in
the nylon industry?
Yes, Century Enka is the largest
Nylon-6 producer in India.
Basically, we have two verticals,
one is textiles and another is the
tyre cord. We are manufacturing
around 3500 tonnes of nylon per
month and around 3000 tonnes
of tyre cord yans monthly. Going
forward, in this financial year
of 2023-24, the company is on
expansion mode and more than
200 crore rupees investments are
coming for expansion in nylon
textiles, both industrial and
regular textiles.
What is the percentage of
industrial textiles and other
textiles?
In total around 55-60% is of
nylon textiles and the remaining
40-45% is for industry.
And the new investments that
What are the new developments
that you have brought into this
Yarn Expo Exhibition?
We are into Nylon yarns,
polyamide-6,youcansay.Wehave
brought in some new yarns in this
expo. Our focus has been on the
following categories mainly:
First, ethnic wear, in which we
have brought in substitutes for
the silk. We have introduced a
new range called ‘Sutra’, its denier
range is 30, 40, 60 and 80. The fall
and feel for this yarn is as good as
that of silk. The other new range
within ethnic wear is the ‘Katan
Series’, which is an air-textured
yarn. This lies between 70-80
denier. you will get the same fall
and feel as that of silk. Moreover,
you get a satin and velvet kind of
feel, without actually using satin.
Second, the other new innovation
is for the dress materials. We are
bringing in materials made of
nylon with 110-140 denier range.
But they give the same feeling as
that of cotton.
Third, is for industrial yarn that is
usedfortechnicaltextiles.Wehave
introduced some high tenacity
yarns in the range of 50-70, 110-
200 denier range as a substitute
for the imported yarn. This range
goes up to yarns of 2000 denier.
These are GPT products that no
one has been manufacturing in
the country. There yarns are used
for making products like army
uniforms, backpacks, webbings,
defence products, parachutes etc.
you are talking about, it is for which
sector?
That is more for industrial yarns and
technical textiles side.
Innovation
Intelligence
Driving market
Senior Vice President Marketing,
Century Enka Limited
I N T E R V I E W
Mr. Sanjay Mehrotra

What is your market share in nylon?
Answer: In totality, as far as textiles are concerned, we
are having a market share of 25-30%. Century Enka
is one of the leading players in textiles and as far as
industrial tyre cords are concerned, capacity-wise we
are placed at number three, in India.
How are you placed globally?
Answer: When we say globally, China is very dominant.
Compared to Indian capacities, the Chinese capacities
are about 20 times. Compared to that we are small in
size and there is still a long way to go. We are competitive
against Korean, Taiwanese, Indonesians and the Thai
producers, size-wise. But as of now we are far behind
than China.
Are you planning any new innovative products?
Other than this, we are working on anti-microbial yarns
and recycled yarns. We have very recently received the
GRS certification and we are into chemical recycling
of nylon, where the pre- and post-consumer waste is
converted into the caprolactam, which we then use to
make the recycled yarns. In the last one year, we were
exporting polymers and now we are doing yarns and
working in the export markets. We are getting a very
encouraging response from the European markets,
especially for recycled nylon yarns.
How do you see the future of these recycled yarns, as
these days everyone is into recycling?
Basically, there are two types of recycled yarns: One
is the mechanical recycling and the other is chemical
recycling. Earlier, nylon was already being recycled
mechanically, it was going in to the engineering plastic
applications. Now, through chemical recycling we are
able to recover the polymer which is as good as virgin.
So, we are very much optimistic. The chemical recycling
set-up is more expensive and the products are very
extensive as well. We are more inclined for environment
conservation and there is an awareness about these.
In developed countries, there is already a demand for
these, but in developed countries like India, the market
is growing and demand is still increasing.
Nylon is a synthetic yarn, so you cannot call it
sustainable…
Nylon is a synthetic fibre. The advantage with nylon is
that you can recycle it 100%. You don’t need to put it in
landfill; hence we can say it is sustainable. Nylon can be
recycled in any form, be it fibre or fabric.
Out of the total MMF, what is the percentage of nylon?
Answer: It is less than 3%. In total, MMF nylon share
is 3%, in India and globally as well. Nylon is a niche
product and per say it is expensive when compared to
polyester. It is a superior product, of course, polyester
has reached many markets as compared to nylon.
You have mentioned about your special range of
sports textiles, how do you see the growth of sports
textiles?
Indian sportswear, as per our studies, is growing more
than 15% per annum. It is one of the fastest growing
segments. So, nylon is the fibre for making sports wear
as its abrasion resistance is high as compared to cotton or
polyester. The only deterrent is the cost. Internationally,
the nylon-based products are very expensive, so it finds
application in the high-end market, despite being a
superior product. In India there are still a few limitations
in the processing when it comes to sportswear, this is
one of the challenges. But we are trying to overcome this
hurdle.
There are many upcoming start-ups. What is your
advice for those?
Innovation is the key. Gone are the days of mass
production. Be it nylon, polyester or any other fibre, the
market demands small runs and fast changes and you
have to react to customer’s need for short run, fashion
trends change overnight, so, one should be flexible.
Innovation and Intelligence will be the driving factors
for the market.

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30
Mr. Ranjit N. Turukmane
Innovation
Management
needed for
successful
ventures
Prof. Ranjit N. Turukmane M. Tech (Textile technology) from
VJTI Mumbai, associating Centre for Textile Functions, Shirpur,
District Dhule as an Assistant Professor and has a total 12 years’
of experience in teaching from SGGSIET Nanded and VJTI
Mumbai. His area of expertise includes: Spinning, weaving,
Technical Textiles, Man-made Fibres and Textile composites.
He has published 65 research papers in National international
Journals.
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN has done exclusive interview with
Prof. Ranjit Turukmane, Assistant Professor, Centre For Textile
Functions, NMIMS Shirpur.
Textile industries of Pune,
Nashik, Nagpur, Kolhapur,
Vapi, Silvassa, Daman, Bharuch,
Dahej, Dholka, Surat etc.
Innovation is an integral part
of any field of engineering and
textile is no exception. Along
with my doctoral programme
small research projects are also
floated to explore new avenues
and this gives a fresh feel about
creating knowledge in lesser
known areas of textile value
chain.
Would you like to share some
interesting incidents/ instances
that happened with you while
working as a consultant to
different industries or while
teaching a batch of students.
Textile field is full of enthusiasm,
every day is a new beginning for
us, I used to learn many things
daily. As such, these incidences
coupledwithexperiencesteaches
a lot to become stronger in life.
What are the major differences
in the industries earlier and
now? Tell us about the work
ethics as well apart from the
technological advancements.
Textile world is growing and
adopting rapid changes as far as
the technological development
is concerned. Over the last
20 to 25 years the technology
has been evolved to reach a
new high. Industry 4.0 to 5.0
and so on helping us to use
developed concept for increasing
production rate with better
product quality.
Tell us about your educational
qualifications. What motivated
you to complete your studies till
masters degree? And why did
you chose this stream?
I completed my Education in
Textiles, B.Text.E from College
of Engineering Technology,
Akola, M. Tech from VJTI
Mumbai, DBM from Dr. BAMU
Aurangabad I am currently
pursuing Ph.d. In Technology
from NMIMS Shirpur. My father
always encouraged me about
Textiles, as a farmer we had a
history of cotton growing fields.
Hence, association and interest in
textiles was there from childhood.
Once joined, I decided to acquire
the highest qualification in the
learning process. I also completed
Management courses in parallel
to my textile profession.
As a part of being an academi-
cian, research is an integral part.
How do you develop a research
temperament or what motivates
you to carry out research in your
labs?
We have well established labs in
the heart of the Textile industries
and our institute is an integral
part of Textile park located in
Shirpur (Maharashtra). Being
an academician, my 39-research
papers have been published
in International Journals and
26 research Papers have been
published in Reputed National
Journals. We send our students
for 6 months in plant training
with dedicated projects in various
How do you teach/ inform your students
about the latest developments in the
industry and make them ready for
working in the industry?
Assistant Professor,
Centre For Textile Functions,
NMIMS Shirpur.
I N T E R V I E W

As explained earlier, with technological advances on the
shop floor, teaching-learning process in the universities
have also changed a lot. With the penetration of
internet, where ready information is available handy,
teachers’ role has become more challenging. We need
to deliver a content which is beyond the scope of digital
world. Latest developments can be understood by
reading international textile research journal, seminars,
webinars, conferences and MDP programs. We insist
students to read a lot from print media.
How do you think the pandemic has affected the
education system? Tell us both the pros and cons.
One good thing has happened in pandemic: most of the
students have become conversant with online platforms
viz. Zoom, MS-Team Google meet etc. One major
drawback is that some students did not have access
to internet and some had to drop out due to lack of
financial support (due to loss of jobs).
How are management studies important for Textile
students?Howdoesithelpinincreasingproductivity?
Worker handling and their management is a key of
success for textile students in industries. Definitely it
helps in increasing the productivity and is ultimately
useful for achieving certain goals of textile industry.
What is your take on the new trend of ‘Organic fibres’
especially use of Organic Cotton and Natural Dyes?
Natural fibers grown according to national organic
standards without the use of toxic pesticides and
synthetic fertilizers are termed as organic fibres. These
fibers are now find uses in many value added textiles,
whereas natural dyes could be useful for sustainable
product development. India has already taken a leap in
this business area and in coming years it would be order
of the day both in domestic and export markets.
Whataresomemeasuresthatneedtobetakenasapart
of the Quality Management in Fabric Production?
The major measure needed is the comfort properties. It
should contain the wearer and satisfy the requirement
of the consumer. The manufacturers should ensure
quality of high-grade fabrics targeted to RMG sector
and fetch added revenue. Quality management is now
the keyword of success in any business composition.
Consumer is the king today.
What are some of the Natural Fibres that are being
used? Where do they find applications?
Banana, sisal, corn and jute are the natural fibres used
for decorative purposes and handicraft articles. They
are used to enhance look, texture and appearance of
the fabric. The readers may be aware that the north
Maharashtra region is a major banana producing zone.
Special projects are being proposed to popularise
products based on banana fibre.
What would be your suggestions for start-ups in the
textile manufacturing sector? How can these ventures
grow, considering the immense competition that lies
in this sector?
Initial amount should be funded to start with small set
up and this will lead towards generating more and more
awareness towards entrepreneurship program. If quality
and costing are given more priority in any product, then
competition will be reduced and product will be known
in long run.
What are the different parameters that a textile
technologist must consider before launching a
product? How can he/she tap the market and cater to
the different variety of customers?
Market survey and sales analysis of a particular product
is imperative before launching any product. One can tap
the market by continuously knowing the sales figure for
a given sector and specific product which is increasing
day by day. Logistics support is also another factor
which needs to be emphasised on.
What is included in the concept of sustainable
textiles? What are some measures taken by leading
brands towards sustainable textiles?
Sustainable textiles is the concept of increasing the value
and life of the product for which it is going to be used.
Manufacturers are using it now a days in textile so as
to increase the life of the human beings. Concentrated
efforts are being taken by the industry to reduce
carbon foot print and to make it as low as possible.
Pest free farming, reduction and alteration of polluting
chemicals in processing, low temperate operations to
reduce energy consumption etc. are the few approaches
where industries are investing to get rid of the threats to
human life.
Would you like to add/ tell us something else apart
from the questions asked above?
India is a country where majority people are with lower
or middle income range, if they are made aware of these
products and it utilisation towards the welfare of human
beings, then it will be a second source of generating
income to every individual, leading to generating
revenue and making a profitable business in their own
territory.

26

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68

28
IMPORT MARKET REPORT
NATURAL FIBRE
SILK
WOOL, FINE OR COARSE ANIMAL HAIR
COTTON.
OTHER VEGETABLE TEXTILE FIBRES
6
9
.
3
3
132.56 433.96
1
8
0
.
2
7
156.9
768.49
271.59
194.94
Jan-Jul 202
1
Jan-Jul 2022
6
0
.
1
63.72 5472.48
4
4
8
.
9
8
55.17
5250.68
370.42
95.06
J
an-Jul 2021
Jan-Jul 2022
EXPORT MARKET REPORT
units in USD million
Reference: Ministry of commerce

SPORTS TEXTILES
– your road to success
1. Introduction
Technical textiles have been
classified in to various categories
such as industrial textiles, agro
textiles, medical textiles, geo
textiles and so on. Amongst the
various textiles in which the
individual textile occupies relative
importance to the other, Sports
textiles contribute 10% of the
world technical textile market.
Increase in demand of the sports
textiles is due to the demand and
also by new innovations in the
fibre manufacture, process and
finishing treatments. Two different
raw materials like hydrophobic and
hydrophilic are used to develop
the functional knitted structures
for leisure wear, sportswear which
improves the comfort of the wearer.
Sportswear textiles belong to a
category called Sportech, which is
one of the mainstream technical
textiles. This rising interest in the
Sport Tech is due to a number of
social factors that include increased
considerations of wellbeing and
good health, growth of indoor and
outdoor sports facilities and the
ever-increasing pursuit of the adult
population of activities outside
the home or workplace. Among
the fabrics, knitted, non-woven, or
woven, knitwear fabrics has always
beenassociatedwithrelaxedclothing
and fashion. Hence, sportswear has
been developing as a strong element
in the present conditions finding
its applications in many sports like
cricket, golf, football etc. Many
definitionsweregivenforsportswear
and znbroadly defined as “clothing
designed for comfort or informal
wear.” Sports garments are now
standard everyday wear, especially
among younger generations. The
interactions between these two areas
of influence, sports and fashion, are
an important source of new trends
in both industries.
Increasinginterestinthesportswear
and casual or urban fashion could
be due to the dramatic increase in
participation in sports activities
and interest in health and fitness
in the last few years. This has
been reflected in the expansion of
market for sports specific apparel.
The global sportswear market is
expected to grow at a CAGR of
6.8% over the next five years. At
the same time, the share of sports
apparel in amateur sports is around
85%.
2. Problems with Conventional
sportswear
Anyfabriceithermadeoutofwoven
or knitted materials should have
adequate comfort characteristics
Dr. G Nagrajan
Sr. Technologist
Texcoms Textile Solutions,
Singapore
SPORTS TECH

38
required for some specific applications. In the case of a formal wear
where the activity of the body movement is not severe, the fabric may have
sufficient air permeability, able to transmit the heat out from the body
and better moisture management capability. However, for the sportswear
fabrics where the activity is severe, it requires the above-mentioned
properties in an improved manner so as to provide comfort to the sports
personnel. Conventional sportswear lack in proper absorption of sweat
from the body and hence leads to stickiness and clogging of pores. This
leads to increase in body temperature and brings down the performance
of the player. Activewear needs to provide a thermal balance between the
heat generated by the body while engaging in a sport and the heat released
into the environment. Normal activewear garments do not always fulfil
this requirement which will eventually lead to thermal stress.
3.Basic requirements of a sportswear fabrics
During the sports activity especially in high active sports like tennis,
football heat stress will be of great concern due to generation of metabolic
heat which is in the range of 800 to 1200 W depending upon the activity,
physical body conditions of the wearer. Due to this, the core temperature
of the body increases by 1 to 2 degree Celsius and moreover the sweat
generation will be around 2.5 litres/hour. To control the core temperature
of the body, heat of vaporization of water takes place to enhance the
cooling effect of the body, sportswear fabrics should have the ability to
absorb the sweat, dissipate to the environment and provide cooling effect
to the wearer.
In other words, the high active sportswear should satisfy the following
requirements
• High stretch and elastic recovery for sufficient freedom to the wearer
• Compression athletic wear (CAW) also called as “skin suits” which
provides necessary comfort and anatomic fit to the body. They
conform to the natural curves of the body and acts as second skin.
4. Fibres for Sportswear
Natural, synthetic, regenerated and specially developed
fibres are available to manufacture sports textiles. Fibres
commonly used are
• Natural fibres – Cotton
Generally,notpreferredasitabsorbsandretainmoisture
although it possesses good softness and comfort.
• Synthetic fibres – Polyester, Polyamides, Nylon
• Regenerated cellulosic fibres – Lyocell, Bamboo
• Speciality fibres – Hygra 20, Killat N23, Lycra 25,
Dacron
5. Yarn requirements
Twist in yarns and linear density play a major role in
sportswear fabrics for moisture transmission. It has
been reported that higher twist coefficient and linear
density decrease the moisture management properties
like absorption time, wetting time and maximum wet
area circle radius. Increase in twist coefficient improves
the air permeability, water vapour permeability and
wicking height but absorption is reduced. Micro
denier polyester yarn is suitable as it gives better
moisture transmission, faster rate of evaporation and
good cooling effect when compared to that of the spun
polyester, PC and 100% cotton materials.
6. Fabric parameters
➢Single knit structures
Single jersey fabrics provide higher moisture absorption
and better wickability than that of the knit-tuck fabrics.
Since it has only knit loops it can be oriented lengthwise
in wale direction and provides better wickability than
that of the knit-tuck structures. Fabric comfort is
characterized by factors such as porosity, pore size,
thickness, density and tightness factor. Slack fabric with
lower contact angle has better water evaporation rate
and higher wicking rate as compared to other different
knitted structures.
➢Two layer knitted fabrics
Two layer knitted fabrics has become popular in
sportswear. In this construction inner and outer layers
are separate and have unique functionality. The inner
layer is made up of hydrophobic fibre and the outer
layer is hydrophilic fibre. For example, two layer knitted
fabrics made of polypropylene as inner layer facing the
skin and viscose or cotton as outer layer. Such type of
fabrics exhibits higher overall moisture management

capability due to quick transfer of liquid moisture from
inner to outer layer.
➢Biomimetics structure
It refers to replicating or mimicking the mechanism
found in nature. Biomimetic warp knitted structures
developed with two guide bars using polyester and
nylon with branched structures. In this structure,
the inner layer has a smaller number of longer loops
than the outer layer. Pumping of water upwards
from inner to outer facilitates better water transport
properties. In other words, the fabric has faster initial
water absorption, quicker spreading and lower air
resistance than the other fabrics of similar material
and construction.
7. Evaluation methods for sportswear fabrics
Subjective and objective evaluation methods have to
be carried out for sportswear fabrics. In subjective
method, wear trials have to be conducted for players
by asking them to reveal the comfort after vigorous
activity.Thesubjectsneedtobeevaluatedforsensation
comfort of the fabrics like clingy, damp, clammy,
heavy etc. Moisture comfort sensory perception is
the main contributing factor for sportswear fabrics.
There are many objective methods available and
some of the important comfort properties required to
be evaluated for an active sportswear fabric are
1. Air permeability
2. Thermal conductivity
3. Moisture management capability
4. Water vapour permeability
5. Water absorbency
Air permeability determines the ability of air flow
through the fabric. Air permeability is a function
of fabric thickness and surface porosity. In knitted
fabrics, the pore size and distribution in a fabric is
a function of fabric geometry. Loop length is one of
the structural parameters that determine pore size in
knitted fabric. When the loop length increases, the air
permeability also increases and vice versa.
Thermal comfort is the state of mind that expresses
satisfaction with the thermal environment, which
means that a person feels neither too cold nor too hot
. As an interface between the human body and the
environment, textiles play an important role in the
heatexchangebetweenthebodyandtheenvironment.
Thermo physiological comfort determines the
breathability and moisture management.
It means that it determines both the heat and moisture
transport through a fabric, whether the moisture is in
the form of liquid or vapour form.
Moisture Management Capability determined by
OMMC index by the instrument determines the
capability of fabrics suitable for sports wear fabrics.
The instrument provides detail information like
wetting time, spreading time, accumulative one-way
transport and assigns OMMC index value. Higher
the value better the moisture management capability
and vice versa.
Water vapour permeability depends on the porosity
of the fabric and diffusivity. Diffusivity of water
vapour depends on the fabric type, structure and its
construction.
Water absorbency is the ability of the fabric to absorb,
penetrate and spread quickly which depends upon
the type of fibre and also the material construction.
Regenerated cellulosic fibres has faster absorption rate
than cotton layered fabrics because of more porosity.
8. Finishing treatments for sportswear
In general, sportswear gets contaminated easily due
to perspiration which leads to growth of bacteria.
Fragrance finished fabrics with microencapsulation
and antimicrobial finishes like betacyclodextrin kills
bacteria. Finishing treatments enhance the comfort
level by quick wicking and evaporation. Nanodry
finish LLC is also found suitable for the fabrics as it
increases the absorbency of sweat.
9. Conclusion
Sports textiles is vast and challenging field in
which the required functionality can be developed
depending upon the fibre, yarn, fabric characteristics
and finishing treatments. Moisture management
properties have to be carefully observed for any
sportswear as it has larger influence on comfort
sensation of the wearer. High performance fibres
like Cool Max, Thermolite, Thermocool are offered
by Advanced Fibre Technology for various sports
applications.
PIC : akoa

32

FUTURE CHALLENGES
AHEAD IN TEXTILE EDUCATION
ABSTRACT
Indian textile industry is one of
the leading textile industries in the
world.Indiantextileindustrylargely
dependsupontextilemanufacturing
and exports. It also plays a major
role in economy of the country.
The sector contributes about 14%
to industrial production, 4% to
the GDP and 17% to the country’s
export earnings. It provides direct
employment to over 35 million
people. The textile industry is
the second largest provider of
employment after agriculture.
India has the potential of increase
its textile and apparel share in the
world trade from current level of
4.5% to 8% and reach US$80 billion
by 2020. The global technical textile
industry is estimated at US$127
billion and its size in India is pegged
at US$11 billion. Thus, the growth
and all round development of
industry has a direct bearing on the
huge requirement of technocrats. To
develop this industry human need
to research, invent new technology
which helps to develop garments
and clothing industry. Now-a-days
the demand of textile education is
increased because there are a large
textile and garments industry in
many countries which produced and
develop garment so that they need
technical and educated person. So
many countries has a large number
of textile universities, colleges and
institutes which provides different
types textile degree including
postgraduate, undergraduate,
diploma degree, etc. If anyone
wants to build their carrier in textile
industry, he/she should take up a
textile related degree which helps
them more.
Keyword: Technical Education,
quality, authority, research work,
skill gap
Dr.J.ANANDHAKUMAR
Lecturer,
Department of Textile Processing,
GRG Polytechnic College,
Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India
SKILL DEVELOPEMENT

44
INTRODUCTION
In India Technical Education has been drastically growing from the past
few decades. Previously only a hand full of students was able to access this
technical education. But in today’s scenario, Technical Education is one
of the most popular choices of lakh of students. The southern most states
of India accounts to have more than 69 per cent from the total count of
technical education. Last year around 8.19 lakh student enrolled in 2,297
engineering colleges all across the country. In the present academic year,
Tamil Nadu alone has around 85 new self-financing colleges which were
approved by the AICTE. The total number of engineering colleges adds
up to 444. Andhra Pradesh is having the highest number of engineering
colleges which add up to 523. In other states like UP, Rajasthan and Orissa
jointly add up for just 14 per cent of India’s technical colleges. This regional
disproportion and quality are at present the serious apprehension of the
authority concerned.
The production and supply chain of textiles industry is very vast and
one facet of the industry is different to another in varied skill sets for
manufacturing of the products. For example-The RMG industry requires
specialized job roles for cutting, stitching, washing, packing etc for apparel
making. Further, each skill level has been segmented into different levels
depending upon the importance and assigned role in the supply chain.
For ex. the cutting activities in RMG industries by job roles like cutting,
cutter, cutting master etc. Similar is the case for weaving and knitting
industry and other value chain activities. Hence, there is a need to have
mapping of the occupations based on the activities performed and skill
level required in the production process. The occupational mapping of
this sector may bring about an overview in the different manpower’s
required by each segment of the industry. In order to study the textiles and
clothing industry requirements of skilled manpower for each job role and
the present availability in the labor market, a Skill gap analysis for each
job roles has to be taken up. The skill gap analysis will provide detailed
information on present available workforce on each job role, industry
requirements, may also project the future requirements of each job role
etc. Accordingly, the demand and supply gap in the skilled workforce may
be identified for bridging the gap by means of skill development. The gap
analysis may also help in developing measures to make a balance between
supply and demand of job roles.
1. TECHNICAL EDUCATION SCENARIO
India has established vast infrastructure facilities with
regard to the Technical education. This has provided
the country with a niche advantage in the globalized
economic environment. The technical education will
aid for the growth of a countries economy and also in
national growth. In the past 25 years the growth rate of
technical education was phenomenal. There was a huge
rate of increase in the total number of institution from
158 in the year 1980 to 1,346 in the year 2005. This has
also increased the intake of students in the Engineer-
ing degree level from a minuscule of 28,500 to around
4, 52,260 in the same period. At present the total in-
take has grown to 8, 19,000 in the last year. The man-
ifold boost in the intake and augmentation in the total
number of technical institution has resulted in a major
increase of pressure on the excellence of educations of
engineering and technology field [1].
1.1 All India Council for Technical Education (AICTE)
This can be easily seen in the obvious increase of courses
being offered in these institutions. The engineering
courses have almost quadrupled recently. Previously
there were just three basic branches in the engineering
which were commonly known as Civil, Electrical and
Mechanical. These courses were on the basis of Soil, Coil
and Oil branches. At present these 3 major branches
have been stretched and expanded to 41 courses in
under graduation alone and more than 100 courses in
Post graduation. Some of the latest and very popular
areas include Biotechnology, Nanotechnology etc.
Environmental Engineering, Ocean Engineering and
Climate Change etc are few other courses in relation
to the advancement of the branches in engineering.
To perk up the technical education and arrive at
global standards there are certain areas which require
immediate attention.

1.2 Significance of Technical Education
Education is an imperative feature for each person in
a country. It has a very important role which aid in
changing the gaze of a nation. No country will get in
the path of success unless and until every person is
educated enough to meet the challenges which might
occur. Education is the only means through which a
person gets a realization about himself and the future
goals. Fundamentally, Education is alienated into three
clusters. The first part teaches and educates a person
about the concerns of the society, which is commonly
known to be as the Social Education. The second will
uplifts ones personality through Spiritual Education and
the third one deal with the professionalism and is known
astheVocationalEducation.TechnicalEducationcomes
beneath the branch of Vocational Education. This deals
with different areas like trade, commerce, agriculture
and also medicine and engineering.
2. Global Certifying Standards
The inclusion of large number of manufacturing
industryinthe1990’sandtheadditionofITindustriesin
the late 1990’s has generated a huge demand for quality
and skilled engineers in large quality. As a matter of
fact, the professional services from skilled engineering
professionals are required highly for the planning and
execution of ideas. The main factor which acts as the
corner stone’s for success in similar practical oriented
courses are the infrastructure and faculty strength.
By getting official approval by national agencies like
NBA will definitely helps in ensuring quality of these
educational institutions. At present the standards and
procedures are not as rigorous as that of international
agencies like ABET, IET etc. Consequently a widespread
authorization system has to be changed for setting up
unvarying global standards for the promotion of global
community.
2.1 Ethical framework - The invisible element
A professional course is intended for crafting
professionals, whose awareness and behavior possibly
will be trusted at face value. Ethics and proper principles
like self-discipline, dedication, temperament and
truthfulness are as important as intellectual vividness.
It is paradoxical that ethics, which are supposed to be
part of the personality and line of work, is persisted and
passedonthroughadditionalspeciallecturesandadd-on
courses. This is even followed for the most experienced
engineers even now. Students are clearly unaware of
such standards and imparting it is more intricate as
compared to passing on knowledge. It has to be taken in
from excellent teachers and senior colleagues who are
supposed to serve as role models. The administration
and management of all educational institutions along
with authorization bodies and Councils must make
certain the system has been installed this feature in
position.
2.2 Facilitation for the deprived category
India being an agrarian country, around 70 % of the
nation’s population is in the rural areas. Most of these
areas are deprived from the advanced facilities available
in the urban settings. This results in the lower rate
of reach of students in to the Technical Education.
This divide of rural and urban must be eliminated by
facilitation. The education system must give serious
attention to the language and communication skills
along with various cultural and practice in these areas
through molding methods.
3. Major challenges in Textile education
Some of the major challenges faced in the field of
Technical education include implementation of a
science based modernizing engineering environment
in the institutions. This includes creating technology
savvy campuses, using Information Communication
Technology (ICT) to augment teaching effectiveness.
The ICT will also help to develop a knowledge centric
learning environment. Developing a research centric
culture at all level of education is another major issue.
There should be a proper system which will tie together
the power of mind and the power connectivity to foster
talent of engineering students. Another major concern
faced in the technical education sector is developing
faculty competence for enhanced teaching and creative
research. The institutions which offer technical
education must be capable of offering the right mix
of knowledge, skills and competencies as to deal with
the presently rigid core specialties and also increase
autonomy.The growing skill gap in India is given in Fig
3.1 Technology
Education technology is a major part of the 21st-
century learning experience. When incorporated
properly in the classroom, tools such as computers,
video conferencing, and even artificial intelligence can
be used to supplement children’s education, provide
support to students with disabilities, and have a wide
variety of additional applications and benefits. However,
implementing education technology in the classroom
is not always done smoothly or successfully. Many
teachers and administrators face obstacles that prevent
them from sourcing, installing, and using technology
that they can use to enrich their students’ educations.
Read on to learn about the top seven challenges facing
the adoption and use of education technology today.

46
3.2 Budget Limitations
By far the greatest factor limiting the efforts of teachers
and administrators to provide education technology
to students, budget cuts and limitations are a major
hurdle that proponents of education technology must
overcome in order to successfully introduce tech into
their classrooms. A recent study even demonstrated
that 75.9% of respondents saw budget restrictions as
the biggest challenge preventing them from embracing
education technology. Budget limitations are especially
challenging to overcome because great education tech
tools don’t come cheap: while tools like Google Cloud can
be a powerful tool for education, simply adopting that
one tool also requires schools to provide Chrome books
to students and fund training sessions for teachers, which
strained budgets simply can’t handle. Finding the funds
to implement and sustain technology in the classroom
can be a major barrier to its adoption in cash-strapped
schools.
3.3 Lack of Professional Training
Increasingly new and advanced education technology
appears every day. Teachers need to be able to know not
only how to get the most out of each new tool themselves,
but also how to train their students in its use. Providing
classrooms with a shiny new tool that neither teacher nor
studentcanuseisunlikelytomakeanimpactinanychild’s
educational experience, and requiring busy teachers to
teach themselves how to use a new tool can be frustrating
and time-consuming. Although professionally training
teachers, faculty, and staff may require time and money,
it’s necessary if students are expected to get the desired
effects out of their technological experience.
3.4 Poor Network Infrastructure
Simply handing a room full of students a box of laptops
or notebooks won’t have any beneficial effects if the
school doesn’t have the network infrastructure it needs to
support them. A strong network infrastructure requires
fast, high-quality WiFi at school and at home, as well
as data privacy and security, access to digital resources,
and much more. Designing, building, and supporting a
strong network infrastructure must be done with a great
amount of care and forethought, as it is necessary for the
effective and responsible continued use of technology in
education.
3.5 Resistance to Change
Many teachers have demonstrated a resistance to change
and unwillingness to adopt education technology.
However, studies have shown that this resistance is not
because teachers dislike technology. Rather, it’s partly
because teachers view learning a new teaching tool as a
risky approach for which they’re not adequately trained.
It’s also partly because their school administrators don’t
present a united front by highlighting which specific tools
can have positive outcomes for their students. Although
this resistance to change can be difficult to overcome,
working with teachers to support them in adopting new
education technology can help make them more likely to
embrace it.
3.6 No Systems in Place to Utilize Technology in
Curriculum
Although granting teachers access to tablets and smart
boards may help boost their comfort with education
technology, many teachers simply have not thought about
how they can best utilize technology in their curriculum.
Indeed, the way a history teacher utilizes laptops in the
classroom may be very different than the way a math
teacher utilizes a smart board. Both likely require plenty
of time for trial, error, and experimentation to bring
their lesson plans up to date. A major challenge in the
adoption of new tools is not providing teachers with the
guidance they need to make education technology work
for them in their specific classroom.
3.7 Unreliable Devices and Software
The lack of a strong infrastructure can also be
compounded by a lack of reliable devices and software,
all of which can present major barriers to the adoption of
education technology. An unreliable device can simply
be a notebook that doesn’t function properly, or it could
be a bug causing students to have trouble accessing tests
or staying logged in at school. In more extreme cases,
Common Core test disruptions in 2015 and other test-
based technical glitches represented an unforeseen
challenge associated with using education technology
to administer testing. Although education technology
can be a powerful tool, devices and software need to be
consistent and reliable for it to remain a viable option in
the future.
3.8 Administrators Don’t See the Need for More
Technology
Finally, another challenge facing technology in education
is the fact that many administrators are simply unwilling
to immediately adopt it. The reasons for this vary but
are likely due to budget considerations as well as the
fact that the benefits of education technology are not
yet well-defined. This makes it challenging to pinpoint
specific areas in which this technology could help
raise test scores or boost other metrics. However, with
distance learning on the rise and education technology
becoming increasingly widespread, it seems likely that
administrators’ resistance to adopting technology will
soon become a thing of the past.

4. Six Steps to Overhaul Textile Education
Education technology is a new field that continues to evolve every
day. At WPG Consulting, we provide technical support and top-
notch professional guidance for a variety of IT systems. From Cloud
Computing to IT Consulting Product Management, our dedicated
and experienced staff has the skills and dedication to help you learn
more about education technology and how to avoid common pitfalls
in its implementation and maintenance.
4.1 Professional Development
There is a lack of sufficient, continuing professional development for
teachers who have to integrate new technologies into their classrooms
but are unable due to a lack of preparedness or understanding of these
technologies.
4.2 Resistance to Change
There is a “comfort with the status quo” which results in teachers
and school leaders believing that learning about new technologies is
outside of their job description.
4.3 MOOCs and Other New Models for Schooling
Massive Open Online Courses (MOOCs) are the new kids on the
education block so to speak, and are encouraged as many higher
education institutions have already embraced MOOCs and seen
success. K-12 schools should be looking for ways to integrate this idea
to make education more accessible.
4.4 Delivering informal learning
Much like number three above, lecture-and-test models of learning fail
to challenge students to practice or take on informal learning. Informal
learning is found more often in non-traditional classroom settings
like flipped classrooms, which provide a combination of formal and
informal learning and have much more non-traditional approach that
embraces multimedia into its standard curriculum.
4.5 Failures of Personalized Learning
Thereisagapbetweentheideaofdifferentiatedpersonalizedinstruction
and the technologies available to make it happen. Even though K-12
teachers see the need for personalized learning, they don’t have the
tools or time available to make it happen.
4.6 Failure to use technology to deliver effective formative assessments
Although testing has always been an important driver for educational
practice and change, many teachers now “teach for the test.” The
curricula and skill sets have adapted to our society’s needs, and in turn
current testing methods have become an antiquated assessment. New
technologiesandourunderstandingofdifferentlearningpatternsneeds
to play into the new way students are scored for the understanding
of the topic. Despite increasing adoption of technologies for K-12,
there seems to be a problem with widespread implementation. Older
teachers seem to lack an understanding of how new technology works.
This lack of an understanding is exasperated when an older teacher is
trying to teach a student who grew up using that technology. We’ve all
seen YouTube videos of toddlers using an iPad, we’ve also watched our
grandparents struggle to understand what an iPad is, or what it can do.
Older teachers also struggle with this sort of thing and that’s when the
problem with implementation comes up. Every parent wants their kid
to be successful and have a better life than they did. Embracing new
educational technologies is one way to do this.
5. CONCLUSIONS
The future of technical education must be
in harmony by providing equal weightage
to science, engineering and technology.
Thevisionofthetechnicaleducationmust
be to develop logical thinking, intellectual
analysis and research pertaining to
industrial development. Practical utility
of the academic knowledge is necessary
for technical education and institutions
must give priority to industrial training
and entrepreneurship development.
Students must be job-supplier relatively
than job-seekers. Technical Education
in India is at the doorstep and could
do with major reforms as for building
a trustworthy and reliable professional
workforce which has to put together
the country for the wellbeing of future
generations.Today a Textile engineer
is expected to perform research,
development and design work in addition
to assuming production responsibilities.
He must be capable of evaluating new
projects, competitive bids and of carrying
out economic analysis at an advanced
level. They are expected to be qualified
in the supervision of the operation of
the plants. Their responsibilities range
from the evaluation of raw materials to
the competitive marketing of finished
products.The number of textile engineers
produced each year does not reflect the
size of the industry. “Textile engineering
offers decidedly more opportunities to
graduates than most other engineering
disciplines.Textile technologist’s work
closely with chemical engineers to
develop new materials for a variety
of purposes. Textile engineering has
received relatively less attention from
young people entering technical colleges
– it lacks the gloss of some of the other
fields, although the opportunities it
presents are perhaps similar. As in any
branch of applied science, the scope of
opportunity lies in the way you look at
the field, and what you choose to do with
the knowledge you gain.

48
6. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The Author would like to express his sincere gratitude
to The Director, Directorate of Technical Education
(DOTE), Chennai for their continued support and
encouragement to carry out this research work.
7. REFERENCES
[1].Palit, Sajal K. “The development of engineering and
technical education in India.” (1998).
[2].Blom, Andreas, and Jannette Cheong, eds.
Governance of technical education in India: key issues,
principles, and case studies. Vol. 190. World Bank
Publications, 2010.
[3].Gambhir, Victor, N. C. Wadhwa, and Sandeep
Grover. “Quality concerns in technical education in
India: a quantifiable quality enabled model.” Quality
assurance in education (2016).
[4].Gupta, Deepti, and Navneet Gupta. “Higher
education in India: structure, statistics and challenges.”
Journal of education and Practice 3.2 (2012).
[5].Prasad, G., and C. Bhar. “Accreditation system for
technical education programmes in India: A critical
review.” European Journal of Engineering Education
35.2 (2010): 187-213.
[6].Dubey, Amlendu, et al. “Reforms in technical
education sector: evidence from World Bank-assisted
technical education quality improvement programme
in India.” Higher Education 78.2 (2019): 273-299.
[7]https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-
article/9/847/quality-assurance-in-textile-education6.
asp (Quality Management)
[8] Gotmare V.D., Some interesting observations and
education to textile shop-floor persons, The Textile
Association, 73 (6), 2013.
[9] https://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/
newsdetails.aspx?news_id=84863.
[10] Paneerselvam A., Can the teachers be replaced with
new technologies, GCTE J. Research and Extension in
Education, 7(1), 2012.
BIOGRAPHIES
Dr.J.Anandha kumar has completed his
Doctorate in Textile Processing from ANNA University
Chennai. He has also completed his M.B.A. in Apparel
Management from University of Madras. Earlier he
worked in various Academic Institutions like University
college of Technology, Osmania University, Hyderabad,
Angel college of Engineering and Technology, Tirupur
and worked as a Scientific Officer at The South India
Textile Research Association (SITRA), Coimbatore. He
also worked in various Textile Industries occupying key
positions.HeisanactivememberofvariousProfessional
Institutions and societies. He is the Life Member of
Indian Society of Technical Education (ISTE), New
Delhi, Institution of Engineers, Kolkata and Patron
Member of Textile Association of India. He obtained
Best Faculty Advisor Award given by Institution
of Engineers, Kolkata, India. His area of interest in
Research includes Bio-processing of textile materials,
Polyester fabrics hydrolysis, Colour analysis of textile
substrates, Eco printing of Textile Materials and salt free
reactive dyeing of cotton materials. He has published
numerous research articles in leading National and
International Journals and presented papers at various
conferences. He obtained one International patent and
two Indian patents are under evaluation. Currently he
is working with the Department of Textile Processing,
GRG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore, India.

8 - 13, December, 2022
INDIA ITME 2022
Stall No. H10B9, Hall No. H10
Greater Noida, India

51
Effect Of Cotton
Yarns On Comfort Characteristics Of Woven fabrics
Abstract
The comfort characteristics of
fabrics mainly depend on the
structure, types of raw materials
used,weight,moistureabsorption,
heat transmission and skin
perception. Basically, clothing
comfort can be categorised
under two broad components,
viz, sensorial comfort and non-
sensorial comfort. Sensorial
comfort is a perception of
clothing comfort which is sensory
responses of nerves ending to
externalstimuliincludingthermal,
pressure, pain, etc producing
neuro physiological impulses
which are sent to the brain. Non-
sensorial comfort basically deals
with physical processes which
generate the stimuli like heat
transfer by conduction, convection
and radiation, moisture transfer by
diffusion, sorption, wicking and
evaporation.Thevariousproperties
contributing to clothing comfort
are fabric hand, thermal comfort,
air permeability, water vapour
transmission, water repellency
and water absorption. The effect of
cotton, linen and modal yarns on
comfort characteristics was studied
by producing as woven fabrics.
The yarns chosen for weaving
were 100% cotton, 100% linen,
100% modal, 50% cotton/50%
linen yarn, 50% cotton/50% modal
yarn of 40s count. The yarns were
woven as fabric in bit loom. The
woven fabrics were subjected for
scouring and bleaching.Then the
fabrics were tested and analyzed
for comfort characteristics like
wicking, wetting, air permeability,
moisture vapor transfer, and
thermal conductivity. Also
subjective evaluation was done
for the fabrics produced. It was
found that modal/cotton blended
fabrics shows better results for
both objective and subjective
evaluation of comfort properties.
Keywords: Comfort, Wicking, Air
permeability, Thermal conductivity,
Wetting, Moisture vapour transfer,
Subjective evaluation
Dr.B.Sathish Babu, Lecturer (Senior Grade), Department of Textile
Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore
Dr. M.Senthilkumar, Head of the Department), Department of
Textile Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore.
Dr. P.Senthilkumar, Professor, Department of Textile Technology,
PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore.
BY
COTTON UPDATE

Introduction
Comfort is multidimensional and complex. The psychological comfort
has different aspects, thermo psychological comfort involving moisture
and heat transfer through fabrics, sensorial comfort which contains
different neural sensations when textiles comes into contact with skin,
body movement comfort which relates to the textile ability that allows
movement freedom, reduce body shaping and burden as required,
aesthetic appeal which means subjective perception of clothing to the
eye, hand, nose, and ear that contributes to the overall well-being of the
wearer1 . The woven fabrics are made from every type of fibers, i.e. natural,
synthetic, and regenerated fibres. The regenerated fibers have properties
of both natural and synthetic fibers. So, theses are much important fibres.
Out of the regenerated fibers, linen fiber gives the better properties in pure
and blended form. After linen, modal fibers give different properties. The
different properties of fabrics made from different fibers are studied2-4.
The air permeability of the woven fabrics can be controlled during
product design by raw material properties (fiber type and blend ratio),
yarn characteristics, and structural parameters of the woven fabrics5,6.
Air permeability, water vapor permeability and moisture management are
important comfort properties of woven fabrics. The capacity of fabric to
transport, store, and dispose off liquid water from the body is defined
as the moisture management7. Cotton fabric is common in many of
our lives, occurring in everything from domestic, T-shirts to towels,
to commercial and industrial applications. So this crop has a gigantic
load to fulfill the increasing demand of the world. On the other hand,
unfortunately, conventional cotton is a notoriously “dirty” crop containing
lot of dust even after so much processing steps. Furthermore, only 2.5% of
the world’s cultivated land is cotton which is not sufficient with growing
needs of drastically increasing world population. Therefore, in this work,
woven fabrics made from cotton, modal, linen, modal cotton blend and
linen cotton blend have been studied to know the blend giving better
comfort properties which may replace cotton woven fabric.
Materials and Methods
Materials
In order to study, 100% Cotton, 100% Modal, 100%
Linen, 50% Cotton/50% Modal and 50% Cotton/50%
Linen yarns of 40s count are used.
Methods
Fabric Production
Fabric samples with ends (76) and picks (68) per inch
of 120 GSM, and thickness of 0.5 ± 0.03 mm are
produced from cotton, modal and linen yarns. Warping
is done first on a warping drum of sample loom which
produced a sheet of parallel yarns aligned lengthwise so
as to form the warp side of the fabric. After this, the
warp is properly sized to impart strength in the yarn
end so that it can bear loads and stresses produced on
loom during fabric manufacturing. Plain woven fabrics
samples are produced on bit loom for testing purpose.
Pretreatment
The sample fabrics are subjected for desizing, scouring
andbleachingwithhydrochloricacid,sodiumhydroxide
and hydrogen peroxide respectively.
Testing
The following comfort characteristics tests are carried
out with the produced fabrics.
Wetting Test
As per Saville (2000), the wettability of the fabrics are
measured by evaluating the time taken by the fabric
sample to sink completely in water. The fabric sample of
3 3 cm is taken and placed on the surface of water. The
samples are placed in horizontal position on the surface
of water from a standard height and the time taken to
sink is noted.
Longitudinal Wicking Test
As per (BS 3424), the vertical wicking test is evaluated.
To assess the vertical wicking characteristics of the
fabrics, a vertical strip of 20 cm 2 cm test sample fabric
is suspended with its lower end (2 cm) immersed in
distilled water. By this method the movement of water
due to capillary action is observed in different time
interval. Vertical wicking rate was used to measure the
perspiration transfer rate from the skin to fabric and
from 1 to 30 minute, the wicking height is noted with
the test sample fabric.

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