July 2018 web issue

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TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
July 2018 Volume 6 Issue 7
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month,
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Oﬃce,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075,
posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 60
Fashion Forecast: 2018/19 Trend Forecast
Interview: Mr. Nikesh Lodha, Director Of HUBERT OZZ
Denim Focus : The Future Of Denim
Sustainable Fibres : Clothing From Modal Fibres
Market Report : Yarn/Surat/Economy Update
Back To Basic
Chemical Management System For Sustainability
Event Update : Non-Woven Conference/Techtextil India 2019/HGH India 2018

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2018/2019 TREND FORECAST
Starting of the new season means a new wardrobe. It’s
not so easy to figure out which styles are worth while
keeping with so little wardrobe space. Some people will
tell you the 80’s are back, while others swear the 40’s are
in. The truth is all about the throwback this year!
The common thing in the heavy weight fabrics have is
that they all have a high insulation value. Since you need
to wear more clothes in winter, the fabrics you wear, need
to be both warm and as well as comfortable. Both natu-
ral and man-made fibres are used to create a wide range
of fabrics and materials for winter wear. The natural and
most common fabrics include wool, linen, silk, leather,
hemp and cotton. The synthetic or man-made fabrics in-
clude polar fleece, spandex, polyester, nylon and acrylic
to name a few types.
The man-made micro fibres are more lightweight but
combined with wool can be just as warm as pure wool.
Although wool does keep you really warm, the disadvan-
tage is that it may be too warm or quite heavy to wear
comfortably, especially indoors. Thick wool is great for
being outdoors but too warm to wear indoors on occa-
sion.
The most common types of winter fabrics used for win-
ter clothing includes:
ƒ Wool: Worsted.
ƒ Manufactured wools: Flannel (cotton or wool) Cash-
mere, Gabardine, Chenille, Felt, Plaids, Tweed and Mo-
hair
ƒ Wool blendsCorduroy
ƒ Fleece (sheep and lamb wool)
ƒ Polar Fleece (acrylic)
ƒ Knits
ƒ Fake Fur
ƒ Fur
ƒ Velvet, Velour and Velveteen
ƒ Silk and silk blends
ƒ Leather
ƒ Suede
ƒ Sheepskin
ƒ Shearling.
Some materials are better suited for a particular type of
winter wear. Examples like:
ƒ Flannel is perfect for warm, comfy pyjamas or a shirt
as it’s soft, warm and fuzzy
ƒ Corduroy with its raised and ribbed texture is ideal for
casual pants, long-sleeved shirts and jackets.
ƒ Worsted wool is typically used for suits, skirts, blazers,
jackets as it’s a hardy, smooth, long-wearing manufac-
tured yarn.
ƒ Leather, Suede and Sheepskin are great for jackets,
outdoor coats and hats.
ƒ Velvet, Velour and Velveteen are soft, silky fabrics that
are light but warm and is perfect for casual indoor
lounging around wear.
ƒ Wool for trousers, suits, blazers, sweaters, skirts, coats,
socks and scarves.
Fashion designers across the around the world are de-
buting their creative instincts to set the grounds for latest
trends to rule the coming fall/winter season and it’s time
to start thinking about anything besides feeling dull. Let’s
take a look at what kind of trend one should grasp this fall
winter 2018/2019.
Breaking the monotony of classic browns, beiges and rust
in the usual look that was a tradition for the FW seasons.
This year clearly aims at setting exciting, futuristic and
experimental standards for fashion lovers, bright tones
of scarlet red, warm hues of orange and earthy shades,
magnetic blues, soothing neutrals. These “winter” colours
are deeper and richer in hue, shade and tone unlike the
lighter shades for summer. All provide great contrast and
style that will brighten up your wardrobe considerably. In
fact, the brighter the better! Just because it might be grey
and gloomy outside doesn’t mean you have to dress the
same way in dark colours.
Today, we can’t imagine the fashion world without Prints
and Patterns. This season typically attempts to reflect the
mind-set of people and crave to sublime into nature in
a digital world. The prints are Hugely inspired from flora
and fauna, floral patterns, organic lines, unrefined earthy
textures, folk arts and celestial patterns appear to be the
talk of the town for fall/winter 2018
FW ‘18 chooses not to stay away from sustainability and
reflects it with textiles being sourced from natural and re-
cycled materials without compromising on luxury. With a
spike in global awareness and the need for comfort en-
gaged with style, this season will witness a more laid-back
and casual approach.
There are no rules in fashion lately, only boundaries
to be broken. The limelight of the autumn/winter 2018
trends given by Harper Bazar are:
Mixing the Same Patterns
Pattern mixing has been popular the past couple sea-
sons, but the newest trend is mixing the same patterns
in different colors. Piazza Sempione mixes a black and
white window pane check with a white and black window
pane check, an interesting juxtaposition that adds depth to
this pant and vest combination. Lemlem uses stripes of dif-
ferent sizes in the same tones for some fun and funky leisure
FASHION FORECAST
Researched by Ms. Yuryangla Mailung, NIFT Student

wear, Paul Smith and
Proenza Schouler
have fun with florals,
combining multiple
florals in a range of
colors. Sacai Hybrid
plaid and stripes
2018-2019 fall win-
ter.
Kolor 2018-2019
all winter lookbook
seem to use a lot
of denim, plush fur,
sheer ciffon, chunky
knitted fabric, leath-
ers. Hybrid patch-
work combo mix
mash up panels, ruffles folds frills, stripes, check plaid
tartan, cutout, tassels, quilting, etc.
Denim
Denims are being
redefined with bold
twills, washed and
brushed effects,
breathable and
stretchable weav-
ing techniques using
cotton and recyclable
yarns and the fancy
for prints continues. Also, the transformed denim being
woven with a combination of elastomer, a polyester derived
fibre imparting a satin glossy look and feel, is all set to make
the ladies want to dine and shine even more.
Gloss : High-shine fabrics
were key on the catwalks
this season, whether vi-
nyl, latex, leather - offer-
ing a quietly dominatrix
appeal. At Chanel (pic-
tured), metallic were cre-
ated in a glossy material,
while Simone Rocha’s and Fendi updated the trench by
giving them a rain-proof glossy finish.
Tweed
Tweed! The all-time
favourite fabric of
Chanel. Add an air
of heritage chic to
your wardrobe next
season by nod-
ding to the tweed
trend. Marc Jacobs
(pictured) played
with textures, styling oversized tweed coats with leather
skirts. Louis Vuitton dressed numerous models in tweed
skirts that most women will want next season, and then
there’s Miu Miu’s bold, 80s-inspired tweed coats as fash-
ioned on the catwalk by Elle Fanning.
Image: Marc Jacobs
and MIu-Miu Autumn
winter 2018 looks
Image: Sacai 2018-2019
fall-winter women’s run-
way Paris Fashion Week
Image: Sacai fall
winter 2018-2019
Image: Versace and
Calvin Klein in Autumn
winter 2018
Image: Chanel and Fendi in
autumn/winter 2018
(Image source: Kolor
2018-2019 fall winter
lookbook)
Checks
Plaid, Prince of
Wales heritage or
tartan, checks in all
their many forms
are key for the new
season. Americana-
inspired plaid stood
out at Calvin Klein
(pictured), worn over balloon sleeve shirts. A more pol-
ished take can be found at Erdem, who incorporated clas-
sic Prince of Wales checks into his collection. Versace’s ap-
proach had a very 90s-inspired Clueless feel.
Leather : The most dominant of all fabrics this season was leather which came
by way of skirts, trousers and trench coats. It doesn’t have to be in black either -
Givenchy served up coats in petrol green and Loewe did dresses in butterscotch-
coloured leather. A midi black leather skirt as seen as Hermes will serve you well next
winter, as will a pair of Saint Laurent’s leather trousers (pictured).
FASHION FORECAST
Image: Givenchy and
Hermes Autumn winter
2018

JULY 2018 ISSUECONTENT
COVER STORY
15- Value Addition on Apparel Fabrics by Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.
16- Conceptual Study of High Altitude Fabrics
by DKTE Professors
19- Self Cleaning Finishes by Yuryangla Muilung
23-DENIM FOCUS : The Future of Denim by Mr. Rajendra Suthar
25- SUSTAINABLE FIBRE: Clothing From Modal Fibres
by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
MARKET REPORT
11- Fashion Forecast: 2018/2019 Trend Forecast
27- Fibre and Yarn export continue to surge in
May by Mr. Nitin Madkaikar
28- Global textile pricing trend in June by Mr. Nitin Madkaikar
30- Surat Report by TVC Team
31- Economy Update by IFA GLOBAL
33- BACK TO BASIC: Requirement of Fibre Formation
by Mr. Ashish Hulle, Professor DKTE
35- Chemical Management System – For Sustainability
by Mr. Sanjay Harane
EVENT UPDATE
37- Online Visitor Registration For ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018
opens
38- International Conference on Non Woven
Technical Textile by ITTA
40- Dr. M.V. Nimkar Endowment Lecture
41- World of Composites to launch alongside
Techtextil India
42- HGH India 2018
NEWS
32- BRFL, 34- ISCMA, 44- Bombay Dyeing 44- TANTU,
45- LIVA & Ankur, 45- Lenzing, 46- CITI
47- SHOW CALENDAR
49- INTERVIEW: Mr. Nikesh Lodha, Director of Hubert OZZ
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher : Ms. Jigna Shah
Chief Editor : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar
Graphic Designer : Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar : VP, Kusum gar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor
Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : President, Colorant Ltd.
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay : Principal Scientist and Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane : Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
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Advertiser Index
Back Page: Raymond
Front Inside: Raysil
Back Inside: Alpine
Fashion Fabrics
Page 3: Covestro
Page 4:Sanjay Plastic
Page 5: SGS Innovation
Page 6: Yarn Expo 2018
Page 7: LRT
Page 8: ITMA ASIA
Page 9: Vrijesh Natural Fibre
Page 10: Parekh Agencies
Page 24: Kenny Fabric
Page 51: DN Associate
Page 52: Amith Garment + BTRA
Page 53: Vora Associate + Klassic
Fabric
Page 54: SKBS
Page 55: Arvind Rubber
Page 56: Inmac 2018
Page 57: Source India 2018
Page 58: Hubert OZZ

EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
GARMENT SECTOR : MANUFACTURING V/S
BRANDING…!
Generally when we visit any garment factory, we feel uncom-
fortable with pathetic / stressful work environment, aura of garment
unit gives negative impact. But, it’s different when we have visited
Ichalkaranji Garment Cluster, aura is so positive and pure. Ichalkaranji
Garment Cluster Ltd. is flagship project started by Awade family under
the GOI and state government cluster scheme MSE-CDP (Micro Small
Enterprise- Cluster Development Program) giving a helping hand to
present and prospective garment industry. Under the scheme all the
facilities and machinery required for garment industry can be made
available through CFC (Common Facility Center). This cluster is manu-
facturing approximately one lakh pieces of garments per month and
supplying 50 active members of the cluster with 100% women em-
ployed. A cluster has set the example for women employment gen-
eration by skilling thousands of women through DKTE institute.
Ichalkaranji is the Manchester of India for being biggest power-
loom cluster with modernized machine. Major corporate brands, Re-
tailers and exporter / manufacture producing their best grey woven
fabric from this cluster by job work. Value addition by processing is
limited in this region. Garment sector was in negligible amount be-
fore this cluster project started. This cluster has high potential being
the India’s biggest and largest entire Textile Value Chain cluster and
caters the global fabric & garment demand.
We seek industry to adopt this model and make more garment
clusters for more employment generation. India having a SME Gar-
ment sector, Brand owners avoid their own manufacturing unit due
to limited resources, out sourcing of production is the best solution
they adopt. Manufacturing units don’t want own brand due to lack
of marketing skills. Government has given the policy for manufactur-
ing perspective but brand owners need to self-sustain for their brand
building process.
We wish you the industry with abundant Festive orders…!!!
When you embrace
pain and struggle; it
transforms into wis-
dom and success.
’’
‘‘
EDITORIAL

VALUE ADDITION ON APPAREL FABRICS
Fashion is for
“change” and it
changes rapidly
every now & then…
Nowadays, fashion
is not just limited to
a country or a com-
munity, it is much
beyond that. There
are seasons for
fashion. The well
awaited Fashion
shows are happen-
ing in every town
across all the major
fashion hubs. The design collections are born or gener-
ated by the icons at these shows and these designs be-
come trendsetters across globe for the entire season.
The designs are transferred to various manufacturing
hubs overnight and fashionable clothes are seen in mar-
ket within short time. Such is the global fashion scenario
today.
When it comes to fashion trends at domestic level the
fashion is changing rapidly, a particular fashion catches
the eye of the users and the trend just flows in. In India,
recently one such case of the cold shoulder is being seen.
It started with cold shoulder tees & tops.But today you
are seeing this cold shoulder concept in all types of gar-
ments from western dresses to Indian traditional kurtis,
to saree-blouses and even in the formal shirts. Similarly
in case of bottom wears torn jeans fashion is circulating.
Torn jeans are seen in all sizes & shapes. There is no limi-
tation to the extent of torn on denim, on a lighter mode
these jeans if were seen by 18th era people they would
tag them garments of beggars. As back then only beggars
used to wear thrown away ripped clothes. Such is the
fashion evolving &revolving today across each & every
category of fabric be it apparels or home textiles.
A lot of innovations today are seen from the greener pro-
spective. Fashion has started evolvingbeyond the aesthet-
ic appearance. It’s now considering the impact that appar-
els are creating on environment. Fashion is now focusing
on conserving the natural resources that are available &
is strongly saying ‘NO’ to synthetic or “against the environ-
ment materials”. ‘Fashion with Care’ is the new branding
today. A certain class of people now prefers organic la-
beled apparels. The garment made from natural fiber is
the new sensible fashion that is happening. This care for
mother earth by fashion industry is not only seen in the
form of pictures & slogans of saving environment printed
or embossed on apparels but it is seen in the choice of
apparel itself. Apparels in which everything from fibre to
finished product & the processes involved are all greener
& eco-friendly. This trend is an indication that the gen-
erations today are expressing care & concern so it might
be seen in near future that the excessive use of dyes &
chemicals might be reduced in textile. In India however
there are decades for this revolution to take place but if
this Fashion soon becomes the trendsetter then it will be
spread like fire & reach to all corners of world be it rural
or urban region.
All said & done the apparel prices are almost constant &
steady at the international level & the retailers are pres-
surizing the supplier to reduce the prices and asking for
higher demands as far as the quality, environment norms,
and infrastructure & fire safety rules. So on one hand a
manufacturer has to invest to meet these high demands
& on the other side he has to reduce the prices or keep
them steady. This major issue on manufacturer’s side can
now be resolved with the help of fashion as anything &
everything even the fabric faults like “slubs and neps” can
be branded as fashion today. The quality aspect can fade
away as the deterioration or limitations of technology can
be highlighted as fashion.
As the resources today are not cost effective, value addi-
tion is the only answer. In India this value addition is been
missing for years. Predominately,we have been yarn sup-
plier for entire world holding number 2 position in this
category. However, as far as fabric or apparels are con-
cerned we are at a distant position with single digit share
in the global market. We are yet to understand the con-
cept of value addition & supplying final apparels to buy-
ers from entire globe in order to reap higher margins. In
Indian context, I would like to say value addition in terms
of fibre to yarn is almost 50% in case of yarn to fabric it
is just 25 -30%. Fabric to process fabric it is another 50%
& from process fabric to garment it is almost 30 - 50% &
finally at retailer stage it’s in multi-folds. This shows the
percentage increase that value addition brings.
In India textile entrepreneurs who are for years are only
into spinning business need to expand their activities into
more value added products. This change at present is
happening with negligible pace. Very few entrepreneurs
are coming up with their own units with value addition.
Avinash Mayekar
MD and CEO
COVER STORY

The value addition is however still missing at a country
level, there is a grey or weak area as far as good quality
of weaving & finishing processes are concerned. In case
of garmenting people are importing fabric and then con-
verting it as they find it more appropriate or cheaper in
putting up only conversion line as against having their
own in-house integrated plant.
The Textile scenario in India is not completely understand-
able as we are majorly supplying yarn which is highest
capital intensive & haslowest profitability. Whereas when
it comes to garmenting or apparels it is the highest profit-
able industry with lowest capital investment. So we need
to understand this business tactics & adopt the strategy
of our neighbouring country China who has few decades
back,completely stopped their yarn exports & started ex-
porting only the finished garments to the world.
Conclusion:
In India we are blessed with abundance of raw materials
for textile products. We are almost independent as far as
raw materials are concerned. We have abundant cotton
cultivation, viscose & polyester fibre and yarn,all other-
fibreswhich arein demand including PET recycled fibers.
We need to convert them into complete value addition
chain to produce finished goods. We are having all capa-
bilities to our advantage like good textile culture, highly
skilled workforce & knowledge base. With such advan-
tages at our side I feel we must channel our strength for
the growth of textiles & focus on innovations than being
just followers. So, to create innovations we must lay good
foundation & generate qualitative textile institutes, fash-
ion designing courses, skill development programs that
will ultimately develop innovative leaders in textiles. Our
focus on value added finished products will only help us
achieve the dream of becoming global leaders in textiles
& apparels.
Taking a clue from fashion, it may happen that the entire
mankind may think of not using any dyes and chemicals
and we will brand ourselves as “eco-friendly products –
say no to dyes and chemicals”.
Let us build up a new image of India as an innovative and
committed country...
“CONCEPTUAL STUDY OF HIGH ALTITUDE FABRICS”
ABSTRACT
This article reports the high altitude nonwoven jacket and
its applications. The high altitude clothing mainly used in
jacket, waist coat, trousers, glacier cap, rappelling gloves
and glacier gloves. The function of high altitude fabric is
protection against extreme cold climate, wind chill factor
and this fabric gives better comfort.
Keywords: Nonwoven, High altitude,Thermal insulation,
Comfort, etc.
INTRODUCTION
High altitude clothing is used for very cold climatic con-
ditions like extremely low temperature, high velocity
winds,snow fall etc. especially in critical armed forced ar-
eas like Siachin.The high altitude clothing needs to meet
both purpose and a person’s feelings of grief or distress.
High altitude clothing is also known as extreme cold cli-
mate clothing (ECC).The high altitude clothing consists of
jacket, waist coat, trousers, glaciercap, rappelling gloves
and glacier gloves.
A battery heated jacket has been manufactured us-
ing same concept used in heated gloves involving heat-
ing tapes, temperaturecontroller and light weight re-
chargeable battery. The jacket has manufactured which
multifunctional layers each is contributing tophysical,
mechanical and thermalresistance, and also heat vapor
transmission properties.
The highest point on the Earth is Mount Everest. The
mountain’s peak is so high in the Earth’s atmosphere that
the amount of oxygen is much lower than at sea level. The
altitude’s combination of little oxygen, strong winds, and
frigid temperatures keeps the existence of plant and ani-
mal life to a minimum.
In textile field high altitude is nothing but to produce a
fabric for controlling such type of evidence and give com-
fort to human being in extreme conditions. That type of
fabric to maintain the continuous body temperature to
the normal level. [1, 2, 3]
Metabolism of heat with human body:
The persons linking and disliking for cold and warm con-
ditions andso the endurance level or point for cold and
warm climate may also vary to some extent, but there
are certain level or point beyond which all human beings
which cannot bear extreme low temperature. A number
of studies have been conducted to express this endur-
ance point or level so that clothing,equipment’s,shelter
s,etc. may developed accordingly. It has been taken out
that the mean skin temperature of human beings at rest
position and are thermally comfortable is approximately
33°C, and metabolic heat generation at this point is 150
watts. In cold conditions, body generates morethermal
energy by physical efforts and shivering to balance the
temperature difference. The effects and causes of high al-
titude were raised by India in 1965 in the common wealth
conference on defenseclothing’ssubsequently, a number
of experiments were taken up to understand and under-
COVER STORY

stand these effects.[8, 9]
Factors affecting on protection of human body in a cold
environment:
1. Metabolic heat.
2. Wind chill.
3. Thermal insulation.
4. Air permeability.
5. Moisture transmission.
1. Metabolic heat:The heat output due to metabolism de-
pends on the body measurements as well as the activity
involved. This heat output would be less at rest and high
during hard work.
Metabolic heat production calculated from oxygen con-
sumption, dry heat loss measured in a calorimeter, and
body temperature measured by telemetry. [8]
2. Wind chill:A still- air temperature that would have the
same cooling effect on exposed human skin as a given
combination of temperature and wind speed called also
chill factor or wind-chill factor.Wind chill depends on the
temperature as well as speed of the wind.
3.Thermal insulation:Thermal insulation is the reduction
of heat transfer between objects in thermal contact or in
range of radiative influence. Thermal insulation can be
achieved with specially engineered methods or process-
es, as well as with suitable objects shapes and materials.
The protection against cold is depends on thermal resist-
ance or thermal insulation of garment or clothing. [11]
4. Air permeability:In general, a wearer would be more
comfortable with a fabric of more air permeability than
with a fabric of less air permeability. However, the open-
ness of fabric structure would increase the effect of wind
chill. The thermal resistance obtained in normal air with
a fabric of a particular structure would be unaffected
evenin cold wind if the air permeability is more.
5. Moisturetransmission rate (MTR), also water trans-
mission rate (WTR): is a measure of the passage of water
vapor through a substance.There are many companies
where moisture control is critical. Moisture sensitive foods
and pharmaceuticals are put in packaging with controlled
MTR to achieve the required quality, safety, and shelf life.
In fabric, MTR as a measure of breathability has contrib-
uted to more comfort for wearers of fabric for outdoor
use [9].Component Materials for Protective Clothing
The protective clothing is generally composite multilay-
ered garments developed in view of different reasons
mentioned above. Each of the component materials for
these composite garments has a specific role to play and
so their roles, requirements and expected performance
are necessary to be discussed.
1.1 Outer fabrics: The outermost cover for many of the
protective clothing and accessories should create an ob-
stacle for wind and provide moisture vapor transmission
so that the wearer is comfortable and protected from
wind chill and related factors. The choice depends onlight-
weight coated fabrics. The coatings act as a wind obstacle.
After trial with different weight, types and classes of coat-
ings, the polyurethane coated nylon fabric has been found
to provide to give the ‘wind obstacle’ effect with flexibility
and lightness of the basic fabric. The Gore-Tex which has
a breathable micro porous polyurethane coating is also
used for special breathable protective clothing.
1.2 Reflective Inner Liner: The experienced were made
to check the effect of heat loss with various liners. It was
seen that 13 a reflective liner like aluminum foil placed at
a distance of 8 mm from woolen gabardine showed re-
duced in heat losses to the extent of 27%. This has set
way for the use of reflective material to increased thermal
insulation properties. At present, aluminum foil is becom-
ing famous for such applications. The knitted light weight
nylon fabric laminated with aluminum film is used for
thermal insulation in the protective clothing.
1.3 Thermal Insulating Materials: The woolen piles and
fabrics which are generally useful for other regions are
not sufficient to meet the requirements of the extreme
cold region. For this purpose, in other countries the down
feathers of good quality are successfully used, but the
down feathers of Indian birds do not provide the required
warmth, more probably due to the climatic conditions
prevailing in the area. Acrylic pile fabric is also very use-
ful due to its good dimensional stability, low rate of creep
and lower moisture absorption than that of wool. New ad-
vancement of fiber technology has introduced a number
of synthetic insulating materials IS. Some of them are Th-
insulate, Thintech, Prim aloft, Thermo loft,Hydrofoil and
Gore-Tex.[8,11]
1.4 Multilayered Clothing: The thermal resistance of a
single layered Fabric would depend on the raw material
and cumulative resistance effect of the layer of clothing,
air aside to textile material, and the air in between skin
and fabric layers. When the clothing is made of a multi-
layered fabric, these effects would get further increased
due to the resistance of fabric layers, air entrapped in
between various fabric layers and air trapped in between
skin and textile assembly. Hence, Single layer fabric gives
less protection than multi-layer fabric. The types of layer
used are as follows:
a. Base layers like merino wool or polyester better
warmth and wicking properties for both cold, and hot
climate comfort, and are the anchor of your layering
system.
b. Mid layer scan be used depending on increases and
decrease in temperature change. Their primary pur-
pose is temperature maintained.
c. Outer Layers are designed to keep the harmful effects
of weather, like wind and precipitation (rain and snow)
from getting to your warm layers. A belay layer is also
COVER STORY

NEWS
many times common place for mountains and ice
climbing and when individuals are not moving, hence
not producing their own warmth. These are normally
very large and soft insulated jackets so the station-
ary belay layer doesn’t get too cold while belaying the
climber. [9]
Applications:
a. Jackets
The high altitude jackets are normally three-layers. The
inner layer looks like waist coat and it is made of acrylic
pile fabric. Second layer is an insulating liner composition
of polyester battingand aluminum fabric. For preventing
the heat loss of body the aluminized surface is used. The
outermost layer is to control the wind and it is made up of
polyurethane coated nylon fabric.
b. Trousers
The high altitude trousers are two-layered clothing. The
inner layer is insulating and it is assembly and double lay-
ered. It composed of two layers one is of polyester batting
and another is of aluminum fabric,siliconised nylon fabric
is used for sandwiches both layers.The outermost layer
is to control the wind and it is made up of polyurethane
coated nylon fabric.
c. Caps
The fluoro-chemical treated nylon fabric having flame,
water and oil repellency is used for made up of outer part
of the cap. The inner portion of cap is lined with acrylic
pile fabric.
d. Gloves
In extreme cold condition, three sections of gloves on the
principleof the action are more favorable. Heat losses in-
volved in the five fingered gloves are higher due to a num-
ber of limit extremities of fingers coming into contact.
The three sections are as thumb, fore finger andremain-
ing three fingers. The outer layer of face side of glove is
made up of polyurethane coated nylon. The inner side is
made up of soft variety of Napa leather. An inner layer of
acrylicpile is used for insulation in these gloves. Polyester
batting is used on the face side for further added insula-
tion.[4, 5, 6]
REFERENCES:
1. P B Jhala, “High altitude clothing: Design, material & man-
ufacture”, Institute for Plasma Research October, 2012
2. Chao-Yang Wang, “Lithium-ion battery structure that self-
heats at low temperatures” Letter Research.
3. G N Mathur , Hans Raj &NishkamKasturiya, “Protective
clothing for extreme cold region” Indian Journal of Fibre
& Textile ResearchVol. 22, December 1997, pp. 292-296.
4. Giada DAMMACCO; Elena TURCO; Martinia Ira GLOGAR,
“DESIGN OF PROTECTIVE CLOTHING” University of Za-
greb Faculty of Textile Technology.
5. Deepti Gupta, “Functional clothing— Definition and clas-
sification”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol.
36, December 2011, pp. 321-326
6. Jon C. Denner, “A PRIMER ON CLOTHING SYSTEMS FOR
COLD-WEATHER FIELD WORK”, U.S. GEOLOGICAL SUR-
VEYOpen-Pile Report 89-415
7. N. BABU RAO, T.M. KOTRESH AND R. INDUSHEKAR, “Indi-
an Soldiers Warm Up to Cold Weather Clothing” Feature
Article, Science Reporter, December 2011.
8. Metabolic heat production, heat loss and the circadian
rhythm of body temperature,
2003 May;88(3):423-9. Refinetti RExperimental Physiology
9. Frank P. Incropera; David P. De Witt (1990). Fundamen-
tals of Heat and Mass Transfer (3rd ed.). John Wiley &
Sons. pp. 100–103. ISBN 0-471-51729-1.
10. Godman R F, Tolerance limits or military operations in-
hot and/or cold environments, paper presented at the
12’thCommonwealth Defence Conference on Operation-
alClothing and Combat Equipment, Ghana, 1978.
11. Peirce F T & Rees W H, The transmission of heat through
Textile fabrics, J Textlnst, 37 (1946) T181
12. http://www.ittaindia.org/protective-textiles
Prof. (Dr) S.D. Asagekar,
Prof (Dr) U.J. Patil,
Mr. Avinash S. Powar*
DKTE’S Textile and Engg. Institute, Ichalkaranji
COVER STORY
The acquisition of minority stake is in the nature of stra-
tegic investment, it added.
Reliance Brands has acquired 12.5 per cent stake in luxury
apparel firm Future101 Design for Rs 9.50 crore. In a BSE
filing, Reliance Industries said, “Reliance Brands, a subsidi-
ary of the company, has purchased 12.5 per cent equity
stake in Future101 Design Pvt Ltd (Future101) for Rs 9.50
crore”. The acquisition of minority stake is in the nature
of strategic investment, it added. Future101 is engaged in
manufacturing, distribution and sale of luxury apparels in
India. “Future101 belongs to a similar industry as Reliance
Brands. We expect growth in this sector and value crea-
tion from this investment,” the company said. Future101
reported an annual turnover of Rs 22.18 crore in 2017-18.
RELIANCE BRANDS PICKS 12.5% STAKE IN LUXURY
APPAREL FIRM FUTURE101.

COVER STORY
SELF-CLEANING FINISHES INTO TEXTILE
Key Words: Self cleaning, nanotechnology, TiO2/ Ag, na-
nocomposite, PVC, photo-catalyst, pre-treatment, fabrics.
1. Introduction
Textiles finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fi-
bre, fabric, or clothing to impart the required functional
properties of the fibre or fabric. The study is to under-
stand more about nano finishing textiles, the aesthetics
and functional finishes familiar with the textile finishing
process and their effects on the fabrics, adverse effects
and compromises of many textile finishes. The main pur-
pose of the finishing is to make the fabric more suitable
for its intended end used, and it is usually the final pro-
cessing of the cloth before being cut into apparel partsor
made into articles such as draperies, towels, etc.(Price Ar-
thur et. al, 1994).
Nature has already developed an elegant approach that
combines chemistry and physics to create super repel-
lent surfaces as well as self-cleaning surfaces. The con-
cept of self-cleaning textiles is based on the lotus plant
whose leaves are well-known for their ability to ‘self-clean’
by repelling water and dirt. Nanotechnology provides this
concept self-cleaning textiles which give self-cleaning as
well as fresh cloths every day, this not only technically
benefited but also techno economically benefited.The
textilesurface which can clean by itself without using any
laundering action.The lotus leaf has two levels of struc-
ture affecting this behaviour - micro-scale bumps and na-
noscale hair-like structures - coupled with the leaf’s waxy
chemical composition.
Nano self-cleaning finishes has a large area of application.
However the previous paper sbarely talks about the ex-
isting and invention of new product made of nano self-
cleaning fabric. The affects of Nano finishing are in con-
troversy. It is says that nanoparticles are very small that
they can easily get inside the skin and may cause skin
related disease especially when using nano silver particle
but no research paper mention about the possible health
hazards. Some of the researcher mentioned sunlight is
the only best source of light for activating self-cleaning
process.If sunlight is the only possible option then the ap-
plication will be confined only for the outdoor wear.
No laundry sounds like a dream cloths that can clean
themselves while they are being worn. Can’t imagine how
many little’s of water we waste everyday to wash one gar-
ment. It’s not only that but the detergents that we used,
energy and time spend. Where there is a will there is al-
ways a way to do something. Everything can be possible
with the help of the advanced technology. Today Nano-
technology has successfully achieved self cleaning finish-
es and this will soon replace all the ordinary washing ma-
chine. What add interest to do this research is for wider
and a better design application by using the self-cleaning
fabric.
1.1. Objective of the study
• To study the self-cleaning finishes in textile.
• To understand the application of nanotechnology into
self cleaning finishes.
• To design self cleaning finishes product.
1.2. The significance of the study
• Self cleaning finishes in the textile product helps in
easy maintenance and environmental protection.
• Using of self cleaning product will save time, material,
energy reduction and consequently cost-efficiency
during production.
• People need not to suffer from heavy laundry bills and
cleaning efforts.
• It will improve ageing behaviour by extended surface
purity effect.
1.3. Research methodology
• Secondary research: articles, journals And books
Abstract
Nowadays, people do not have time to clean their daily cloths. Nature and textiles
havevery close relationship. The concept of self-Cleaning was inspired by the surface of
Lotus leaves, which are well known for their ability to self-clean by repelling water and dirt.
Nanotechnology hadopened a door for the scientistto develop self-cleaning surface which
can be cleaned itself without using any laundering action. Nanotechnology is a new hope
in the textiles field which can give fresh cloths everyday. The application of self cleaning
properties on textile surfaces by using the nanotechnology includes a vast potential for
the development new products. This study will cover the areas of different methods of self
cleaning process, types of chemical used, application on to different fabric and products,
innovation and development, present and future trend of nano self-cleaning, limitations.
The self cleaning finishes has a great opportunities and has large areas of applications
like Hospital garments, Sportswear, Military uniform, Smart textiles, Upholstery, Under
garments etc.
Yuryangla Muilung
SVT & NIFT - Mumbai Student

• Primary: Informal discussion with the experts and ex-
perimental research.
2. Manufacturing Method
According to A. Singh and M. Gahlot 2015, the self-clean-
ing textiles can be manufactured by two ways
i. Traditional method: Application of fluorocarbons
ii. New method: Application of nanotechnology
i. Application of Fluorocarbon
Principle
This principle work in such a way that if the critical surface
tension of solid is more than the surface tension of liq-
uid, then liquid will wet the solid. So if the critical surface
tension of solid is reduced than that of liquid, the water
repellency can be achieved. The water repellency effect
can be imparted on fabric by using fluorocarbons, which
are the carbon compounds containing perfluorinated
carbon chain. These carbon compounds form thin film
around the fibre and possess a very low surface tension
of around 10 dyne/cm. So the drop does not adhere to
the surface fibres.
Limitation
The limitations of application of fluorocarbons are as
follows:
• Fluorine compounds may cause skin related prob-
lems
• Effect will reduce after few washes
• Fabric goes yellow with exposure to heat, UV light an-
dhigh relative humidity
ii. Nanotechnology Application
To overcome the above listed problems due to the ap-
plication of fluorocarbons, new methods have been de-
veloped using nanotechnology, which are suitable for the
production of self cleaning surface.
There are basically two types of self-cleaning surfaces
involving nanotechnology. In the first place extremely
water repellent, microscopicallyrough surfaces: dirt par-
ticles can hardly get a hold on them and are, therefore,
removed by rain or by a simple rinse in water .The second
example is given by photo-catalytic layers: due to a layer
of nanocrystalline titanium oxide, fouling organic mate-
rial is destroyed by solar irradiation
The manufacturing of self-cleaning textiles using na-
notechnology:-
2.1. Using Photo catalyst
2.2. Using microwaves
2.3. Using carbon nanotubes
2.4. Using Metal oxide colloidal
2.5. Using silver nanoparticles
2.6. Using chlorine halamine
2.7. Polyvinylidene Fluoride Film
2.1. Using Photocatalyst
In this process Nano-sized, Titanium dioxide and zinc ox-
ide are used for imparting self cleaning and anti-bacterial
properties. Nano-crystalline titanium dioxide sols were
prepared by hydrolysis and condensation reaction of 97%
titanium tetra-isopropoxidein an acidic aqueous solution
(pH 1) of glacial acetic acid and 37% hydrochloric acid
wherein the concentration of titanium dioxide (TiO2) pre-
cursor varied. The composites were heated at 60°C under
vigorous stirring for 2 hours. It is found that the intrinsic
low-stress mechanical properties of fabrics change after
the self-cleaning coating treatment. The tensile extensi-
bility of coated fabrics decreases and the surface rough-
ness increases (Tung Sze and Daoud A, 2010).
The fabric is coated with a thin layer of titanium dioxide
particles heaving 20 manometers diameter. Titanium di-
oxide is a photo catalyst, when it is illuminated by light
of energy higher than its band gap, electrons in TiO2 will
jump from the valence band to the conduction band, and
the electron (e-) and electric hole (h+) pairs will form on
the surface of the photo catalyst. The negative electrons
and oxygen will combine to form O2, radical ions, where-
as the positive electric holes and water will generate
hydroxyl radicals OH. Since both products are unstable
chemical entities, when the organic compound (i.e. dirt,
pollutants, and micro organisms) falls on the surface of
the photo catalyst it will combine with O2’ and OH’ and
turn into carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2 O). Since the
titanium dioxide acts as a catalyst, so it is never used up.
This is how the coating continues breaking down stains
over and over. Zinc oxide is also a photo catalyst, and the
photo catalysis mechanism is similar to that of titanium
dioxide (E.M. El-Khatib 2012 and Singh A. et. al 2015).
Fig.1 a): Photocatalyticself-cleaning property of Titanium dioxide
b) Working of self cleaning textiles (http://www.techni-
caltextile.net).
According to E.M. EI- Khatib 2012, the self-cleaning tech-
nology in this work uses titanium dioxide photo catalyst
that, when triggered by light, it decomposes dirt, stains,
and harmful microorganisms and so on. Fabric samples
were stained with red wine. After 20 hours of exposure
to simulated sunlight, the coated fabric showed almost
no signs of the red stain, whereas the untreated fabric
remained deeply stained.
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2.2. Using microwaves
A new technology developed, which make possible to
attach nanoparticles to clothing fibres by use of micro-
waves. So chemicals that can repel water, oil and bacteria
are directly bound to the nanoparticles. These two ele-
ments combine to create a protective coating on the fi-
bres. This coating both kills bacteria, and forces liquids
to bead and run off. The same technology, created by
scientists working for the U.S. Air Force, has already been
used to create t-shirts and underwear that can be worn
hygienically for weeks without washing (Singh A. and
Gahlot M. 2015).
2.3. Using carbon nanotubes
Artificial lotus leaf structures were fabricated on textiles
via the controlled assembly of carbon nanotubes. Carbon
nanotubes (CNTs) and surface modified carbon nano-
tubes are used as building blocks to bio mimic the surface
microstructures of lotus leaves at the nanoscale. Cotton
fabrics, which otherwise have perfect water absorption;
have been endowed with super hydrophobic properties.
Afterwards water contact angle was increased and found
greater than 150 degree (Singh A. and Gahlot M. 2015).
Fig.2: Carbon nanotubes (https://www.researchgate.net)
2.4. Using Metal oxide colloidal
The fabric is dipped and processed in metal oxide col-
loidal solution and then it is given heat treatment. Due to
that fabrics get surface roughness on nanometer scale.
Afterthat through water repellent treatment, the fabrics
has surface with water contact angle above 1500 (Singh
A. and Gahlot M. 2015).
2.5. Using Silver nanoparticles
Water repellent coating of silver nanoparticles that offer
superior resistance to dirt as well as water and require
much less cleaning than conventional fabrics. Nano-Tex
improves the water-repellent property of fabrics by creat-
ing Nano whiskers, which are made of hydrocarbons and
have about 1/1000 of the size of a typical cotton fibre.
They are added to the fabric to create a peach fuzz ef-
fect without lowering the strength of cotton (Singh A. and
Gahlot M. 2015).
Fig3: Working of nanoparticles in textile surface (http://1.
bp.blogspot.com/)
The above picture that the two textile surface, one which
is treated with silver nano particles and other is not treat-
ed with silver nano particles. The untreated surface hav-
ing dust particles, when water droplets rolls over it do not
get washed off because dust particles are adhere by tex-
tile surface. While treated textile surface do not adheres
the dust particles hence when water particles rolls over it
dust get washed off (Singh A. and Gahlot M. 2015).
2.6. Using chlorine halamine
The technology works by attaching chlorine-containing
molecules called halamines to textile fibres. Chlorine in
the form of halamines has powerful bacteria-killing prop-
erties, used for example to disinfect swimming pools.
Unlike chlorine gas, there are no adverse effects since
toxic chlorinated carbon atoms are not generated. By
sticking halamines to the cellulose fibres like cotton, the
bacteria-killing effect can be bonded to the material and
used again and again. Eventually, the chlorine is used up
but can be regenerated with a wash in chlorine bleach.
The halamine-treated fabrics kill microorganisms almost
instantly on contact, so these materials are best suited
formedical uses such as uniforms, wipes, bedding and
towels (apparelscience.com).
Fig.4: Halamine treated fibre surface
(a) Untreated textile surface
(b) Treated textile surface
(Source :A. Singh and M. Gahl-
ot)
2.7. Polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF)
According to the paper of ZhengZhenrong, et. al. 2015,
polymer with low surface energy, and resistant to ultra-
violet (UV) degradation, atmospheric chemical attacks,
and algae and fungal attacks. They are highly flexible and
hard to crack, thus easy to handle during installation.
Hence, PVDF is usually used as the topcoat of architectur-
al membrane structures, roof materials of vehicles, tent
fabrics, raincoat material, and the cover of outdoor air-
conditioners. A further modified PVDF film with a super-
hydrophobic property may be even more superior as the
COVER STORY

coating layer of a self-cleaning surface. Dust on this type
of surface would be easily washed away by rain, which
saves a great deal of manpower and cost in cleaning ser-
vices.
2.8. Plasma Technology: Another solution for self
cleaning property
Plasma treatment is another way to achieve self clean-
ing property in the textiles. It is a special coating process
on which organic molecules are polymerized followed by
deposition on textile surface. Ultra hydrophobic coating
of nano particles imparts a rough surface morphology to
textiles. Use of plasma in textiles is a method of gener-
ating multifunctional textile fibres means fibres with fire
retardant and water resistance properties (Singh A. and
Gahlot M. 2015).
3. Areas of Application
The self cleaning textiles have various areas for applica-
tions from fabric of home to technical textile of indus-
tries. The major areas are Apparels & accessories, medi-
cal textiles and hygienic textiles, sports wears, military
& defence uniform, upholstery, outdo or textiles and
automotives. Some other areas for application are glass
windows, road signs and banners, bathrooms & sanitary
appliances, flooring and roofing tiles, outdoor surfaces
& shades, house walls and paints, ship hulls and plastic
wares (Singh A. and Gahlot M. 2015).
Fig.4: Self-cleaning products
4.Commercially available self cleaning Products
The commercially available products in the global market
with self cleaning property are such as Mincor® TX TT
(Outdoor textiles like tents, umbrellas, sunshades, flags
and
Sails are major products), Nano Tex (Apparels like men’s
shirts, dress materials etc. are main products) and Nano
sphere (mainly produced Men’s shirts with self cleaning
property) (Singh A. and Gahlot M. 2015).
5.Economic Significance
The economic significances of self cleaning textiles are as
follows:
• Ease of maintenance and environmental protection
due to reduced cleaning efforts
• Resource conservation (time, energy and money)
• Durable & long lasting
• People need not to suffer from heavy laundry bills
• Improved ageing behaviour by extended surface purity
effect
6. Disadvantages/Limitations
• Self cleaning textiles take a long time to clean them-
selves. More active catalyst are therefore needed to
speed up the cleaning process.
• The high oxidation power of the catalyst will not only
degrade the stains but will also adversely affect the
fibres themselves.
• The mechanical strength (i.e. tearing strength) & dura-
bility of fabric get reduced considerably. The catalyst
is also skin irritant.
• Carbon nano tubes based self cleaning coatings have
limited applicability as they turn dark in colour after
the coating.
• Sunlight is the best source of light for activating the self-
cleaning process.
6. Design opportunity
As research continues and knowledge matures in the
area, more exciting developments are expected that will
allow self cleaning to expand its frontiers into many as yet
unknown and unexplored domains.
Designers have a great opportunity to come up with an
innovative design concept in this area. As they can be ap-
plied in various areas like
y Medical textiles e.g. Hospital garments
y Sport tech e.g. Athletic wear
y Defence textile e.g. Military uniforms
y Smart textiles
y Upholstery
y Undergarments
However, for military persons or hikers, who are outside
in the sun for long periods of time without the time or
means to clean their clothes, self-cleaning fabric would be
ideal as the sun is a good source for self cleaning. Further
research would be required to test ways of applying nano
particles to textiles.
7. Conclusion
The opening of new application fields for textiles will lead
to a new growth stage.Self cleaning fabrics are not only
repellent to water but are also resisting stains, dirt, odour
and are antimicrobial as well.Water through these surfac-
es easily rolls off and completely cleans the surface in the
process.Self cleaning effect on textile materials lead to an
efficient use of materials and are therefore in agreement
with the principles of sustainable development.
COVER STORY

References
A. Ebru Tayyar, G. A. (2014, April 24). “Outdoor usage performances
of woven fabrics dyed with self-cleaning dyes”. The Journal of The
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0.1080/00405000.2014.919064
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Chenghui Zheng, Z. Q. (2014, Febraury 19). Self-cleaning Bombyx
mori silk: room-temperature preparation of anatase nano-TiO2
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D. Gupta, M. L. (2015). “Functional Finishes for Textiles”. delhi, India .
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nylidene Fluoride Film”. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel,
19(2/3), 48-53.
THE FUTURE OF DENIM
Rajendra Suthar
C.O.O,Shyamaarnav Spinfab Pvt.LTD. , Ahmedbad
When I started working for the denim industry 20 years ago experiencing nee type
of cloth in Indian Market. A lot has changed since then and is still evolving. I do not
mean to say that vintage market does not influence the future of our jeans however today
there are further dimensions to designing the denim for the future.
Fashion trends mirror what is happening in the world and denim has been a major part
of the fashion instrument to reflect the now as well as the future. Value added denim and
jeans cannot merely be “sold” unless insight related to cultural values as well as techno-
logical advancements become a part of the story-telling. The question that all the industry
is asking is what makes a pair of jeans premium and beautiful for the future?
The reply is its social currency as well as its purpose.
These two aspects merge at the design and manufactur-
ing level and the denim supply chain is at a tipping point
where designers and technical product developers col-
laborate to make it happen.
The social currency of a pair of jeans needs well defin-
ing. The jeans need to have the relevancy to the cultural
wavelength and change. Thus it is essential to understand
what is happening globally in terms of tribal consumer at-
titudes. In an era of abundance the attitudes shift from
ownership to sharing as an open network offers possibili-
ties of shared experiences. The contemporary global is-
sues as well as our prediction of the future also define the
purposefulness feature of denim. The denim consumer
is no copycat and is aware of the world’s political, envi-
ronmental and economic setbacks. He wears denim as an
expression and not because it is a trendy dress code but
because it is a statement. This novel consumer is aware
of the global trends, technologically integrated, health
conscious and desires the sporty elements of a modern
life-style.
Depleted resources related to global warming – both cot-
ton and water are set to become luxury commodities –
plus a landfill and waste crisis will force the fashion indus-
try to act more responsibly. Sustainability will become a
key part of decision-making in consumer purchases and
the denim consumer is once again on the front-line. Cir-
cular economy will enhance the way the denim industry
uses recycling.The sustainability aspect and the relation
to nature define the core of the future denim. There is
an urge to innovate mimicking the nature as the natu-
ral resources get scarier. Synthetic biology provides the
means to duplicate what nature offers initially in the lab
and then to scale and many industries including fashion
have already started to use lab-born products.
Recycled fibers will close the loop and will speak the same
language as the environmentally conscious consum-
ers. Lenzing’s Refibra has made an impact at the recent
DENIM FOCUS
COVER STORY

denim shows. Re-new cell will go operational in 2018 and
will turn use cotton and viscose into new fibers. To cre-
ate products made from ocean plastic, fashion brands are
working with specialist companies including NY-based Bi-
onic Yarn and Italian firm Aquafil.
Adidas has biodegradable sneaker from Spider Silk, Au-
gust 2017 saw Stella McCartney partner with San Francis-
co-based Bolt Threads to add further luxury sustainable
fabrics to the fashion brand’s collection. The biotech com-
pany uses a clean manufacturing process to create mate-
rial from natural proteins such as a vegan, yeast-based
silk.
Purposeful design has entered the fashion scene and
as the supply chain offers options the brands embrace
this concept to meet the current and future needs of
its consumers. The denim fabric of the future relates to
the whole body, the fibers offer the stimulating experi-
ences and energetic interactions. The fabrics move with
the body as the body moves with time. The element of
comfort will not cease to exist. Climate change will lead
to a significant rise in the Earth’s temperature, creating a
new focus for the fashion industry linked to maintaining
optimum body temperature through the clothes we wear.
The demand for season-less, protective and temperature
regulating smart fabrics will grow.
Cocona Inc’s 37.5 – Leaders in Climate-Control Cloth-
ing: The body’s optimum core temperature is 37.5°C.
US-based CoconaInc’s 37.5 Material Technology uses ac-
tivated carbon from waste coconut shells and volcanic
sand to wick moisture away from the body and maintain
that ideal core micro-climate. With impressive results in
‘hard work’ apparel as well as formal office wear, Cocona
Inc. currently supplies more than 60 global apparel com-
panies including American work wear brand Carhartt. Co-
cona’s aim is for 37.5 Material Technology to be the lead-
ing brand name in non-proprietary climate-controlling
fabric delivery systems. Its marketing highlights the ben-
efits of maintaining this optimum personal micro-climate
throughout the cycle of work, play and sleep, and we will
see this type of wellbeing-focused textile innovation – par-
ticularly aimed at the ‘hard’/outdoor work market – evolv-
ing to become even smarter over the next few years.
Extreme heat, caused by climate change, will call for
smart apparel and textiles to regulate body temperature
throughout the working day. Increasingly fluid workplace
scenarios will demand products that are adaptable and
multifunctional. The denim industry supply chain lives in
the future and learns from other industries such as the
food industry to be able to compete and offer innovation
to the tech and fashion savvy consumers. Exponential in-
novation in fashion is happening, as fabrics get smarter,
sustainable, responsive and conversational. It is exciting
times for an exciting industry where technological devel-
opments, social impact ventures, start-up business mod-
els, concern for the environment drive the motivation and
inspiration to further collaborate and co-create. Long live
denim forever.
DENIM FOCUS
35www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Rs Mn. Mn US$ Rs Mn. Mn US$ Rs Mn. Mn US$ Rs Mn. Mn US$ Rs Mn. Mn US$
BRUNEI 119.15 2.19 103.43 1.71 126.25 2.06 119.51 1.83 545.73 8.13
CAMBODIA 2079.09 38.18 2109.56 34.87 2369.2 38.74 2396.55 36.61 1643.12 24.49
INDONESIA 12850.42 235.96 15403.79 254.61 12585.27 205.81 14146.53 216.11 15066.52 224.57
LAO PD RP 8.11 0.15 13.19 0.22 43.04 0.7 30.23 0.46 17.37 0.26
MALAYSIA 15887.74 291.73 16596.24 274.32 19207.91 314.11 16426.74 250.94 13974.46 208.29
MYANMAR 1235.51 22.69 4467.66 73.85 4877.68 79.77 5424.24 82.86 4957.67 73.9
PHILIPPINES 3019.32 55.44 3467.59 57.32 3616.53 59.14 2841.14 43.4 3552.41 52.95
SINGAPORE 8150.34 149.66 8220.07 135.87 7222.26 118.11 7393.03 112.94 6477.8 96.55
THAILAND 9992.74 183.49 12318.25 203.61 9116.36 149.08 10699.45 163.45 13585.1 202.49
VIETNAM SOC
REP
16787.38 308.25 26483.27 437.74 33132.01 541.82 23799.33 363.57 26222.63 390.86
Total 70129.8 1287.74 89183.05 1474.12 92296.51 1509.34 83276.75 1272.17 86042.81 1282.49
TABLE 136
Source : Monthly Statistics of the Foreign Trade of India, DGCIS, Kolkata.
EXPORT OF TEXTILE ITEMS TO ASEAN COUNTRIES
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17
Countries
Oﬃce : E-1526-1527,New Bombay Market, Near Sahara Darwaja, Surat, Gujrat, INDIA
Factory Address:-
Plot no.46, 47, Shivdhara Raschel Park, Guy Pagla Road, Torrent Power gate, NH-8, Surat - 394150, Gujrat, INDIA
Mfg.of knitted, Embroidery & Export fabrics
+91 99095 10008
+ 91 99784 32203
Email :- kenyfabrics@gmail.com
fabrics
Manufacturer of Warp Knitted, Raschel, Circular, Raschel Jacquard Fabrics,
Velvet Rapier, Jacquard Rapier
ADVT
REPORT

CLOTHING FROM MODAL FIBRES
Because of its superior properties , Modal has gained
a lot of popularity in the developed world during the
last three decades , with the consumption expected
to touch 40,000 tonnes this year , says Johann Leit-
ner , Head of Product Development and Technical
Marketing for Lenzing Fibres . A significant part of
this growth has come from the replacement of
polynosic fibres whose production by Japanese com-
panies has been stopped due to economic problems .
Lenzing started promoting modal in India only in the
late 1990 s , when economic liberalization became ef-
fective and import duties were brought down .
Now the consumption in India is 4000 tonnes till 2007.
Birla Cellulose is offering Birla Modal. Modal as defined
by The International Bureau for the Standardization of
Man Made Fibers ( BISFA ) is a distinct viscose fibre genre
, which has high wet modulus and satisfies a minimum
value of tenacity in the wet stage at 5 % elongation.
Manufacturing process – Modal is a specialty fibre ,
produced solely by the Austrian company , Lenzing AG
.It is made exclusively from the beech wood pulp and
consists of 100 per cent cellulose . Naturalness plays
a key role in Lenzing Modal . The fiber is made from
beech wood , a natural raw material . The pulp used
for fibre production is made by Lenzing to guarantee
consistent and reliable quality .The secret of the fibres
success is pure beech wood . The cellulose produced
at Lenzing is extracted from indigenous woods and
used for the production of Lenzing Modal. The quality is
guaranteed through the control of the whole manu-
facturing process – from wood to fibre . The standard of
the raw material is decisive for the quality and makes
Lenzing Modal so unmistakable .
The in – house pulp production department uses
beech wood from the region . The raw material helps
promote The quality ofLenzing Modal. many of the fib-
ers other characteristic properties are associated with
beech wood making Lenzing Modal so unique . the
pulp and fibre production are conducted in accord-
ance with the principle of sustainability . chemi-
cals and secondary products which occur during the
production process are sold as valuable substances
. one example of this wood sugar which is further
processed to sweeteners .
The standard Lenzing Modal fibre is available in 1.5
D x 39 mm and 1.7 D x 39 mm and 50 mm . The
fine Lenzing Modal is also available in a micro variant. .
This extra fine fibre makes textiles even lighter . It feels
like ‘ skin on skin ‘ . You can hardly feel MicroModal – it
is so pleasant . The MICRO is available in 1.0 D x 34 mm
and 39 mm .
Properties of Modal fibre – Modal is currently called the
new wonder fibre .This fibre combines the benefits of
natural fiber and the fantastically soft feel of modern
microforms . it is about 50 % more hygroscopic , or water
– absorbent , per unit volume than cotton is . it is de-
signed to dye just like cotton , and is color – fast when
washed in warm water . Mint and preserves these
properties even after many washing cycles . Modal
fibres are dimensionally stable and do not shrink or get
pulled out of shape when wet like many rayons. They
are also wear resistant and strong while maintaining
a soft , silky feel . Modal fabric has softness , good drape
and is comfortable for wearing . Modal fabric has good
moisture regain and air permeability which is often con-
sidered better than cotton fabric , it is a good material
for exercise clothing and health suit. , which can serve
to benefit physiology circulation and health of the body.
The natural softener of Lenzing Modal means fabrics
remain pleasant to the touch even after repeated
washing . Hardening of the fabric , which occurs as a
result of limestone deposits and traces of detergent
, becomes a thing of the past with Lenzing Modal.
Modal fabric has level up surface , fine and smooth and
velvet , which have the effect of natural silk . The yarn
has the character of high strength . The fabric has good
softness and brilliant lustre . The effect of the finished
M
odal is a bio-based fibre made by spinning reconstituted cellulose from the
beech trees . Modal fibres were initially developed in the 1930 s for industrial
uses in tyres ,conveyor belts and hose pipes .
A generic name for a modified rayon fibre that has high tenacity and high wet modu-
lus. Additional developments in Japan in 1951 by S . Tachikawa lead to the production of
modal fibers. It is quite similar to the polynosic used in older days because of highest wet
modulus. In handle and appearance the fiber is somewhat similar to a good quality mer-
cerized cotton . Modal is a new kind of natural fiber developed by Austrian Lenzing Com-
pany. Modal is the registered trademark of Lenzing AG, an Austrian company specializing
in textiles and fibers. Particularly natural fibers made from cellulose. Lenzing modal has
been providing pure softness next to skin for more than 40 years , a record no other
fibre can equal. The fibre cross-section illustrates its soft structure
Dr. N.N.Mahapatra
President, COLORANT. LTD
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

Modal garment is very good , and the form is steady.
The garment maintains anti-crease properties and has
relatively easy care . With the hygroscopity of Cotton
and the luster of Silk , it remains soft and lustrous after
several washes.
Textiles made from modal do not fibrillate , or pill
, like cotton does , and are resistant to shrinkage and
fading . they are smooth and soft , more so than even
mercerized cotton , to the point where mineral depos-
its from hard water , such as lime , do not stick to the
fabric surface . like pure cotton , modal should ideally
be ironed after washing .
Viscose Modal Tencel
Titre Dtex 1 ,3 1,3 1,3
Tenacity cond cN/tex 26 35 42
Tenacity wet cN/tex 13 20 36
Elongation cond ( % ) 18 13 16
Elongation wet ( % ) 21 14 18
Wet Modulus cN/tex/5
% E
3 6 10
Loop Tenacity
cond
cN/tex 7 9 20
Fibrillation Mark 1 1 3
Birla Modal absorbs moisture more quickly than cotton
and is doubly as effective as cotton . even after repeated
washes , it remains as supple and absorbent as the day it
was made.
Blends of Modal fibre - Fabrics made of 100% Modal
and blends of Modal/Cotton ,Modal/Spandex , Modal/Ly-
cra , Modal/Wool , Modal/Silk, Modal/Rayon and Modal/
Synthetics .are now being used in India for a variety
of products .
It is manufactured by Zhangjiagang Beta Manufacturing
& Textiles Co Ltd , Jiangsu , China. Since last 10 years they
are doing knitting , dyeing and finishing of Modal fabrics.
The fibre is now being spun into yarn by a number
of Indian companies , such as RSWM , Bhilwara manu-
factures Cotton/Modal blend in 50/50 ratio and count is
2/30 . It can be yarn dyed in package form or piece dyed
in fabric form. Raymond, Chindwara makes polyester /
modal suiting 67/33 blend which is bleached and dyed
by Snow White process developed by Rossari Chemicals,
Mumbai.
Lenzing Modal is particularly well suited to blends with
cotton since both fibers have similar properties. The
fibre cross –section of Lenzing Modal is similar to that
of cotton ensuring that Lenzing Modal is an opti-
mum blending partner . Lenzing Modal cannot only be
blended with cotton to get optimum results. Like no
other cellulose fibre , Lenzing Modal harmonizes with
other fibres – in a simple and un complicated manner.
In particular , the dyeing performance of Lenzing Modal
emulates that of cotton . It is like perfect partnership .
The properties of both of these fibres – Lenzing Modal
and cotton are very similar . In particular the dyeing
behaviour of Lenzing Modal enables tone – on – tone
dyeing in the blend since Lenzing Modal has the same
deep dyeing effect as cotton . No other cellulose fibre
produces comparable results . Another asset is the fact
that Lenzing Modal can be mercerized without any
difficulty – an absolute must with blends with cotton .
In blends with cotton , Lenzing Modal improves the yarn
regularity and helps to attain a better fabric surface .
Though cotton remains an old favorite blend partner
, Birla Modal blends beautifully with almost all textile
fibres. Following are the fabric constructions
1. Warp – 50 s 100% polyester.
Weft – 60 s 100% Modal.
2. Warp – 2/50 poly/modal 50/50
Weft - 2/50 poly/modal 50/50.
3. Warp – 2/60 cotton /modal 50/50.dyed
Weft – 40 s cotton/modal 50/50 dyed.
4. Warp – 2/36 cotton/modal 50/50.
Weft – 2/36 cotton/modal 50/50
5. Modal lycra 96/4 count 40 s modal x lycra
Uses of Modal fibre - Lenzing modal is the perfect
fibre for fabrics worn next to the skin - for day and
night , sports and active wear . Among the areas of
application which have found favor are knitwear
and woven inner and outer garments . In home tex-
tiles, it is used for a variety of terry – cloth products.
if you are looking for exceptional softness then look
no further than lenzing modal .It is used in jersey and
other fabrics. China manufactures flat lock stitched un-
derwear made out of Modal fabric. In the United States
, pure Modal has begun being used in household
linens such as towels , bathrobes and bed sheets , bed
bath and beyond . Modal is also the main textile used
in manufacturing of panties , sleepwear , casual line ,
clothing lines and is available in all leading shopping
malls. Modal fibres have found a wide variety of uses
in clothing ,outerwear and household furnishings.
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
‘‘WHEN I LOST MY EXCUSES, I FOUND MY RESULTS.’’

FIBRE AND YARN EXPORT CONTINUE TO SURGE IN MAY
In May shipment of fibre, spun and filament yarn ship-
ment continued its robust march on the low base. In May
2017, textiles exports had declined 30% in volume and
17% in value u nder the adverse impact of demonetisa-
tion. Further, exports were also impeded by the newly
launched GST regime in July.
Cotton export tapers in May, but still up year on year
Indian cotton export, although tapered in May compared
to April, but surged 24% year on year with shipment of 7.7
lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 6.2 lakh bales exported
in May 2017. Pakistan emerged as the largest importer of
Indian cotton in May, followed by Bangladesh and Viet-
nam.
Overall, unit prices realisation averaged INR119.5 per kg
or US cents 81.83 per pound. This compared to domestic
spot prices, were slightly higher but much lower, by about
US cents 15 compared with global spot benchmark, the
Cotlook ‘A’ index for the month. While the global bench-
mark has risen in May from its previous month’s level, ex-
port FOB value moderated in similar comparison.
During the first eight months of 2017-18 cotton mar-
keting year, shipment aggregated 7.44 million bales as
against 5.92 million bales in the corresponding months
of previous marketing year. The price realization aver-
aged INR116 a kg or US cents 82.26 per pound in April as
against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 91.51 per pound and spot
Shankar-6 at US cents 81.74 per pound.
Pakistan emerged as the top importer of Indian cotton in
May with shipment of 1.97 lakh as against 0.56 lakh bales
in the same month a year ago. Export to Pakistan picked
up dramatically from January the ban on import imposed
by the Pakistan government was lifted in view of crop
shortage there. However, the lifting was accompanied by
strict testing procedures.
In the 2017-18 marketing season upto May, export to Pa-
kistan totaled 14.32 lakh bales, 60% more than the fig-
ures of 2016-17. Price-wise, it was in line with the average,
implying that it was cheaper to import from India than
from international markets. While the average FOB to Pa-
kistan works out at US cents 81.86 per pound, the prevail-
ing price, in terms of Cotlook A index, averaged US cents
96.67 per pound.
Cotton yarn export to China increases three folds
In May, spun yarns shipment totaled 131 million kg (up
76%) worth US$413 million (up 75%) implying an average
unit value realization of US$3.15 per kg, slightly lower by 2
cents compared to last year. Mean-while, the INR against
the US$ was weaker at INR66.28 this may which augured
well for exports. China was the largest buyer of spun
yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value. [For
detailed report write to us at sales@textilebeacon.com]
Cotton yarn export was at 107 million kg worth US$345
million (INR2,285 crore). 88% above previous year’s level.
77 countries imported cotton yarn at an average price of
US$3.21 a kg, US cent 1 more than previous month and
down US cents 9 from a year ago.
China continued to increase its import of cotton yarn
from India by almost three folds in volume and value
terms. It was followed by Bangladesh with volume and
value both rising 15% over the year, but appear to have
slowed down. In April it had clocked a growth of 45%.
Egypt and Peru were the other major importers, almost
doubling their imports from India. South Korea was the
fifth largest destination. 10 countries did not import any
cotton yarn from India as they had imported yarn worth
US$0.84 million last May. However, they were replaced by
12 other countries which imported yarn worth US$1.22
million.
Tanzania, Nepal, Ukraine, Bulgaria and Tunisia were
YARN REPORT

among (other than China) the fastest importers of cot-ton
yarn in May while Cote D’Ivoire, Netherlands, Bahrain,
Russia and United Arab Emirates significantly reduced
their imports compared to last year.
100% man-made fibre yarns exports continued to surge
both in volume and value in May. MMF yarn ex-ports
comprised 5 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.5 million kg of
viscose yarn and 1.6 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester
yarn exports rose 66% in value while viscose yarn exports
value increased 45% during the month. Acrylic yarn ex-
ports were up 6%.
Polyester spun yarns were exported to 43 countries at av-
erage unit price of US$2.44 a kg. Turkey was the largest
importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and Egypt.
Although unit price realization fell com-pared to last
month, it was significantly up from last year.
Viscose yarn worth US$8.4 million or INR55 crore was
exported at an average price of US$3.34 per kg. Iran
emerged as the top importer worth US$1.90 million, fol-
lowed by Belgium and Turkey. Bangladesh was the fourth
largest importer of viscose yarn during the month.
Blended spun yarns worth US$45 million were exported
in May, up 39% YoY in value terms. During the month,
7.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$22 mil-
lion while 4.8 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth
US$142 million. Bangladesh. Colombia and Egypt, were
the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey
was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India fol-
lowed distantly by Pakistan.
Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 67 million
kg, up 37% YoY valued at US$122 million.
Source: Textile Beacon Global Info Services
GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN JUNE
Cotton
In India, firmness continued to prevail in cotton mar-
ket as prices almost maintained upward march in June.
Spot prices gained INR2,180-4,205 per candy month on
month across all varieties and more sharply in finer cot-
ton. Shankar-6 cotton was traded at INR46,625 per candy
on the spot market, up INR4,205 from last month. The
Cotton Advisory Board (CAB) has revised ending stocks in
the year started October to 43.3 lakh bales due to a fall in
consumption by the mills. Recently, CAI cut its estimate
for 2017-18 (Oct - Sep) closing stock to 16 from 21 lakh
bales seen in April.
Cotton sowing was complete over 32.2 lakh hectares as
on 29 June, as against 46.10 lakh hectares in the corre-
sponding period last year. Sowing in Haryana increased
a bit, while that in Punjab and Rajasthan has fallen. Ma-
harashtra, however, is likely to witness some rise in the
cotton acreage as farmers prefer cotton. In Gujarat, due
to the delayed monsoon, the pace of cotton sowing was
sluggish at 2.42 lakh hectares as of 25 June, down 64%
from last year’s 6.75 lakh hectares from same time.The
rainfall deficit till 30 June was at 91 per cent with only
68 mm precipitation as against 831 mm average for the
state.
US cotton futures on the ICE marked its worst perfor-
mance for a month in two years amid concerns over trade
war between the US and China. Although futures edged
up in the last week of June, it posting its third consecutive
weekly losses. The most active cotton contract on ICE Fu-
tures US, the third-month December contract, settled at
an average of US cents 87.92 per pound up US cents 3.47.
In China, spot cotton market made some corrections,
amid insipid trading and sidelined stance. The China Cot-
ton Index although fell in the last two weeks, was up 488
Yuan in June to average 16,384 a ton.Global spot bench-
mark, the CotlookA index also surged US cent 2.36 on the
month to US cents 97.41 per pound.
Cotton Yarn
Cotton yarn markets in China moved down from stabil-
ity late in June amid poor buying interest in downstream.
YARN REPORT

Some spinners reported rise in their inventories amid
sales pressure while some traders were under pres-
sure from limited funds. However, gains in early days of
the month saw June closing with price up on the month
in Yuan terms but down in US$ terms for some coars-
er specs as the currency weakened sharply during the
month. 32s cotton yarn prices moved up to US$3.73 a kg
while 40s were up at US$3.90 a kg, both up US cents 4on
the month.In India, cotton yarn market prices were stable
while transaction was modest over the month as cotton
prices continued their upward march. 30s combed cotton
yarn for knitting rolled over at INR212.50 a kg (US$3.13,
up US cents 21 on the month) in Ludhiana. [For detailed
report, write to us at sales@textilebeacon.com or call on
9819915227]
Polyester chain pricing
Polyester staple fibre prices were sluggish in China this
June and weak Yuan pegged values down in US$ terms.
Although the markets were supported by rising MEG cost
which continued to go up while PTA markets firmed up,
PSF makers were unable to take advantage of this cost
support. PSF makers held offers stable in Zhejiang while
markets in Shandong and Hebei also held stable. In Ji-
angsu and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were
down US cents5 at US$1.33-1.37 a kg, while the same in
Fujian and Shandong were down in the range of US$1.33-
1.38 a kg. In India, PSF prices were flat during the month
but are reduced for July as buyers postponed replen-
ishing due to weak demand.In India, PSF prices were at
INR93.75 a kg or US$1.39 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR95 a kg
(US$1.38 a kg), both down US cent 1, also due to weak
INR.
Spun polyester yarn markets were stable to down in Chi-
naand India in June as upstream markets were in seen
weakening along with crude oil values. Global cotton
markets were although subdued, local spot prices were
seen gaining but did not have much impact on polyester
markets. In China, polyester yarn prices were stable to
down in Shengze, with 32s polyester yarn offers were at
14.21 Yuan a kg (US$2.19 a kg) while 60s were at 16.40
Yuan a kg (US$2.53 a kg) and 21s at 13.15 Yuan a kg
(US$2.03 a kg). In India, polyester yarn prices generally
rolled over given stable demand in domestic as well as
export markets. 30s polyester knit yarn prices were flat at
INR132 a kg (US$$1.94 a kg, down US cent 1 due to weak
INR) in Ludhiana.
Polyester raw material, PTA prices rose 2% in Asia while
MEG was cheaper by 5% in June. PTA markers averaged
US$840.50a ton CFR China while offer from Taiwan/Ko-
rea were at US$850.50 a ton, both up US$18-19 on the
month. The last week has seen prices surging somewhat
recovering earlier losses
completely.
MEG market fluctuated
upward in Asia in June
and prices continued to
trend. Offers for July de-
liveries were higher than
spot values in late June, but
turned flat from spot num-
bers later.The CFR China
markersaveragedUS$900a
ton and CFR South East
Asia to US$888.50 a ton,
down US$46-51 month on
month.
COURTESY: TEXTILEBEACON.COM - +91-9819915227
Nitin Madkaikar
Textile Beacon
YARN REPORT
WELLMAN DEVELOPING
SEVERAL NEW PRODUCTS IN
PSF SUB-SECTOR.
Ireland-based Wellman International Ltd, which manu-
factures polyester staple fibres (PSF), is developing new
products for adult incontinence hygiene uses and medi-
cal applications, lighter weight solutions for the next-
generation automotive and aerospace applications, se-
lected composites and niche high-performance apparel,
according to company CEO Donal Breen. The company
recycles around 2.7 billion polyethylene terephthalate
(PET) bottles per year, Breen told Fibre2Fashion in an in-
terview. The latest innovations in the PSF industry include
next-generation PET BICO fibres, micro-splittable fibres,
fibres with significantly enhanced hydrophilic/hydropho-
bic properties, fibres with tailored elastomeric properties
and fibres based on renewable resources, he added.
NEWS

Nylon yarn prices further rises upto
Rs.8/Kg.
The prices of various deniers of nylon yarn are continu-
ous rising in Surat local market. The manufacturers have
further increased yarn prices up to Rs.8/Kg in July. Indus-
try sources said front and second-line spinners had in-
creased nylon yarn prices by almost Rs. 40 per kilogram
since January, while polyester yarn prices increased up to
Rs. 20 per kilogram.
The spinners are arguing that because of high raw mate-
rial caprolactum, chip prices and operating cost the prices
of nylon yarn are increasing. Also, strong dollar has fur-
ther raise the raw material price up to 10%. On the other
hand, power loom sources said the rally of yarn prices is
going on since last six months. Power loom weaving sec-
tor, which is reeling under the after effects of implemen-
tation GST, has been pushed to the wall because of the in-
creasing nylon and polyester yarn prices. The GST Council
had reduced GST on yarn from 18 % to 12 %. Despite this,
the fact is that yarn prices are continuous increasing. The
weavers are likely to file a complaint with Anti-profiteer-
ing Authority over the continuous rise in yarn prices as
they believes a ‘yarn cartel’ is behind the spike.
Market sources said, Upstream nylon or polyamide chip
prices trend up as raw material caprolactum spot and
contract markets are expected to remain elevated. On-
going shortages associated with firm raw materials and
other production issues will push prices up amid rising
buying interest for nylon.
Textile Industry demands waiver of
e-way bill system
The textile industries has demanded exemption of e-way
bill system for textile sector in the state. The Confedera-
tion of All-India Traders has wrote state GST commission-
er, stating state govt. still continuing with city-limit e-way
bills, which is proving to be a transport bottleneck for tex-
tile industry. It demands follow other states in implement-
ing district-level e-way bills for goods in transit for textiles
sectors.
Pramod Bhagat, president of CAIT’s Gujarat chapter said,
Gujarat is the hub of the textile sector in India. Tamil
Nadu has exempted textile products like yarn, job work
services, fabrics etc. from generating e-way bills. We want
the Gujarat government to implement the same for the
textile sector. CAIT also demanded that e-way bill limits
be increased from Rs 50,000 worth of goods to Rs 1 lakh.
Tamil Nadu and West Bengal have implemented the Rs 1
lakh limit for e-way bills. This means that only traders dis-
patching goods worth more than Rs 1 lakh need to gener-
ate e-way bills.
Reduce power tariff in textile sec-
tor: Entrepreneurs urge to state ind.
commissioner
“The Power tariff for textile industries is very high in Guja-
rat as compare to Maharashtra and Rajasthan. The textile
units in Surat have been paying Rs.7.5 per unit for electric-
ity usage, while the units in Maharashtra pay Rs. 3.75 per
unit. Because of the tariff structure, fabrics manufactur-
ing cost is high upto 20 per cent in Surat. The govt. should
reduce power tariff in textile sector to make fabrics man-
ufactured in Surat competitive to those made in Maha-
rashtra and Rajasthan”. Textile entrepreneurs have made
representation to state industries commissioner Mamta
Verma who was in Surat to hold discussions on the new
textile policy to be implemented by the state government
in October.
In a program organized at Southern Gujarat Chamber of
Commerce and Industry (SGCCI), the industry owner feels
fear that if govt. will not think on high power tariff, the
weaving and other small scale industry will shift in other
state. SGCCI president Hetal Mehta said, The new textile
policy should address the issues of power tariff, capital
subsidy, interest subsidy and investment on top priority.
If the government fails to address such important issues,
then Surat’s textile industry would be in trouble. Textile
entrepreneurs, who had made investmens under Tech-
nology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), are yet to get
subsidy amount of Rs 400 crore for the last two years
from the government. This hampered the growth of TUFS
and stalled modernization in the textile sector.
The powerloom industry demands funds allocation for
two yarn banks, which was started in 2015. The textile en-
trepreneurs also pointed out that unfinished fabrics man-
ufactured in Surat reach Vietnam and China via Kolkata
and Bangladesh. The finished fabrics from Vietnam then
is dumped at cheap rates in India. Mamta Verma said,
the new apparel & textile policy will implement in octo-
ber-2018. The government is ready to listen to the issues
of the entrepreneurs here. The new policy will be framed
after taking the opinion of textile sector into considera-
tion. She made a presentation of new garment policy and
ask the industry owner to avail the benefits of various
capital and interest subsidy.
SURAT REPORT
‘‘Nothing can DIM the LIGHT that shines from WITHIN…’’

The theme for the market in June
was none other than “Rupee”-
which fell to all time low of 69.09
amidst stiff fall in EM FX, especial-
ly Chinese Yuan and rising crude-
oil price. In June OPEC meeting,
OPEC and its non-OPEC partners,
including Russia, have agreed to
increase oil production. The pro-
duction increase
will start in July by
“measurable” supply
boosts, but without
specific numbers being given.
Key highlight of the OPEC meeting was predictable -
stark disagreement between OPEC de facto leader Saudi
Arabia and regional rival Iran, OPEC’s third largest pro-
ducer, which likely led to no specific output numbers be-
ing agreed upon. Most OPEC members cannot increase
output, even if they wanted to. The oil market may only
see 600,000 bpd of extra supply. Apart from Iran, Iraq,
Venezuela, Angola are raising doubt on output due their
economic, political or global level concern. In back of this,
Crudeoil prices reacted exactly opposite to market expec-
tation of easing supply cut. WTI Oil prices posted straight
second week of gain and it is up by almost 15% from the
bottom of $63.60. Uncertainty is there whether nations
would buy crude from Iran. Drawdowns have been high
and at the same time demand is quite high. This suggests
limited downside for the oil prices. A culprit currency- Chi-
nese Yuan registered a straight third week of loss; posted
1.80% weakness for this week to touch lowest level Since
Dec-2017. This week, PBoC cut RRR by 50bps for selec-
tive banks to inject liquidity. The cut is seen as a preemp-
tive stimulus against the slowdown that may result in the
economy due to US imposed tariffs.
Several recent developments on the global and domestic
front are causing investors to take some risk off the ta-
ble but investors have not quite pressed the panic button
yet. The flight of interest rate sensitive flows has spooked
debt and currency markets but equities have been fairly
resilient so far, especially the benchmark indices. Gradual
withdrawal of USD liquidity and rate hikes by the US Fed-
eral Reserve has caused cracks to appear in several EM
economies, especially those with weak current account
positions and looming political concerns. The Argentine
Peso, Brazilian Real, Mexican Peso, Turkish Lira, Russian
Ruble and more recently the South African Rand have
all depreciated significantly. Many central banks have
responded by hiking rates to combat the outflows and
some are considering and in fact would be compelled
to do so. IFA GLOBAL TREASURY RESEARCH ACADEMY|
www.ifaglobal.net | www.treasuryelite.com| Blog: www.
abhishekgoenka.com
The Rupee too has seen significant depreciation pres-
sure. Putting last 3months flows together, FPIs have
pulled out net USD 6.25Bn and USD 3.1Bn out of debt
and equity markets. FPI limits in debt that were close to
full utilization now stand at 76%. The RBI has used its FX
Reserves well so far to ensure that a runaway move does
not happen in the Rupee. It has intervened with intent in
OTC as well as exchange traded futures to crush specula-
tive longs. This explains why the vols have not spiked up
to the extent they usually do and as has been seen on in-
stances when Rupee has depreciated in the past. The RBI
in its June monetary policy managed to restore the confi-
dence of market participants as it hiked the repo rate by
25bps while keeping the policy stance neutral. The hike is
preemptive in nature considering inflationary pressures
mainly on account of higher crude prices and hikes in
MSPs and is consistent with the RBI’s inflation targeting
framework.
“The Prime minister announced that the Union Cabinet would
approve the implementation of minimum support price of
150 percent of the input cost, in its forthcoming meeting, for
the notified crops of Kharif season 2018-19”. – PMO state-
ment
Funding the twin deficits at this point is the major chal-
lenge on the domestic front. The CAD for FY19 is likely to
be around USD 70Bn. FPI outflows and slowdown in FDI
and foreign currency borrowing is likely to leave a hole of
around USD 15-20 Bn in BOP (unless the tide turns and
capital again starts flowing back into EM economies). This
is the major risk for the Rupee.
On the fiscal front, as we head into election year, the
government can ill afford to cut down on spending. Gov-
ernment spending was the major contributor to the Q4
GDP growth that came in at 7.7%. With GST revenues
not yet stabilized and Air India divestment not likely to
go through, there are risks of fiscal slippage. Nationalized
banks have not been buying duration as they would not
want to squander away the precious resolution capital in
MTM losses. Private banks’ demand for duration could
also reduce as the RBI has increased the FALLCR carve
out from SLR. FPIs too are not utilizing their debt limits to
full capacity. The concern therefore is how will the supply
be absorbed. (The yield on the 10y benchmark touched
8% briefly recently and is 175bps above the repo rate).
To sterilize liquidity as a result of FX intervention and
manage sentiment in the G-sec market, “Banker’s Bank”-
RBI came up with an OMO for Rs 10000 cr in mid June.
Further, Post this intervention, RBI released its monetary
LURKING RISKS CAUSE NERVOUSNESS SHY OF PANIC
Mr. Abhishek Goenka
(CEO & Founder : IFA Global)
ECONOMY UPADATE

policy meeting minutes which suggested that members
voted to hike so as to ensure that inflation remains con-
tained within the band given up side pressure from rising
crude prices and hike in MSPs. RBIs decision to change
valuation of SDLs to market linked rates from flat 25bps
over corresponding tenor G-sec could reduce demand for
SDLs as well, further widening the supply-demand gap.
Whether the concerns on both the above deficits exacer-
bate or recede would depend to a large extent on where
crude prices head from current levels. On a positive note,
with the output gap closing and supply chains getting re-
paired post the shocks of demonetization and GST, we
can see a pickup in private CAPEX and exports. Quick res-
olution of NPAs is vital to ensure that capital is available
for banks to be able to lend to fund this CAPEX.
On the global front, trade related tensions, developments
in Spain and Italy, and Brexit related headlines would con-
tinue to set the tone for risk sentiment.The US has extend-
ed tariffs to its allies Mexico, Canada and EU as well. Any
retaliatory tariffs imposed by EU could further escalate
trade tensions. In June, US imposed tariffs on USD50Bn
worth of Chinese goods and further threatened to impose
tariffs of another USD 200bn worth of Chinese imports
if China retaliates to tariffs. This has fairly affected com-
modity linked currencies like AUD and NZD, down by 4.5%
to 5%.
The BoE left rate unchanged in June meet by a 6-3 vote but
painted an optimistic picture of the economy. The chief
economist Haldane turned hawkish and voted in favor of
a hike. There was a short squeeze in Sterling post the rate
decision. On Brexit front, the UK government managed to
tilt the vote in its favor by giving the parliament a mean-
ingful say in the withdrawal process from the EU. The gov-
ernment’s position which was under the cloud seems safe
as of now. In the recent EU two-day summit in Brussel EU
leaders strike deal on migrants and this has stabilized the
German government. Any headlines showcasing solidar-
ity amongst EU members would boost the Euro further
higher. But this summit did not fetch anything good for
Pound as Brussels chiefs warned the UK to “accelerate”
and “intensify” Brexit talks in conclusions published fol-
lowing talks, which lasted just minutes during the final
day of the two-day summit. EU leaders and the UK gov-
ernment were hoping that they would have completely
agreed a deal by this November. If they fail to do so, then
chances of No deal Brexit increase and uncertainty looms
on financial market.
The right-wing parties Northern League and M5S together
formed a government in Italy. The pickup in expenditure
and tax cuts due to populist policies of this government
would risk destabilizing the EU. The Spanish parliament
toppled Prime Minister Rajoy through a no confidence
vote and the new PM Pedro Sanchez is a socialist. Any
departure from fiscal prudence in peripheral econo-
mies would not go down well with Germany or Brussels.
It would be important to track the yield spread between
Italy and other peripheral nations against the yield on cor-
responding maturity German Bunds.
To summarize, on the domestic front, The RBI has been
preemptive and has ensured that Rupee depreciation
does not hit headlines and create panic. It intervened ag-
gressively even before Rupee sustain well below all-time
low. Whenever Rupee depreciation has been out of whack
with other Asian/EM currencies, the RBI has intervened
to align the Rupee with its peers. The RBI may endeavor
to keep the Rupee somewhere in the middle of the EM
pack and may allow gradual depreciation of the Rupee
if global USD strength continues. Technically, 67.70 is an
important support. Break of ~69.10 -last week’s high for
the Dollar-Rupee pair would be key level to watch, above
which it will create panic in the market.
ECONOMY UPADATE
Mr.Sanjay Ingle Has Taken Charge
As A Vice President - Marketing
From June 2018 Effectively.
At Present He Is Handling Fabric
Sales And Marketing Activities For Branded Readymade
Garments Customers (Mens And Womens Wear Prod-
ucts) Since Last 8 Years In Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd.
Mr.Sanjay Ingle Qualified As A Textile Technologist With
Management And Marketing Education Started Fab-
ric Sales And Marketing Job From Year 2010 In Bombay
Rayon Fashions Ltd., Mumbai .During His Eight Years Job
He Had Visited Cloth Markets Statewise Throughout India
Where He Has Given Good Sales Target With Best Rela-
tionships With Cloth Traders.
His Valuable Research In Trends In Various Markets With
New Development In Fabrics Had Given Good Exposure
In Domestic Market. He Efficiently Handled Marketing,
Branding And Publicity Activities During His Eight Years
Job. Hence He Was Promoted As A Vice President - Mar-
keting In Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd.
In Conversation With Mr.Sanjay Ingle Told That He Will
Be Taking Responsibility For Marketing Of Dress Material
Fabrics Along With Shirting Fabrics.He Told That He And
His Team Will Concentrate On Strong Retailer Network
Throughout India Through Distributors Channel.
MR. SANJAY INGLE PROMOTED AS A VICE PRESIDENT -
MARKETING IN BOMBAY RAYON FASHIONS LTD.,MUMBAI
NEWS

July 2018 web issue

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July 2018 web issue