Research and planning

1. ResearchBy Fintan Sedgwick

2. Kai Z Feng
Kai Z Feng is a Chinese-born photographer who was born in 1982.
He started to gain attraction at the age of 18 when he would photography his peers who where
aspiring models and using them in his own work which was seen by the modeling agency select.
This would eventually propel his career as a photography as he as known as a regular when it
comes to vogue and Hugo Boss, this would be where he met countless A-list celebrities including
Jennifer Lopez and Katy Perry. Kai began as a graphic designer in London and to come all this way
from when he was 18 is a huge milestone for anyone, he recently turned 36 on Dec 12, 2018. In
an interview in 2015 he came out saying that the reason which he went to London was due to
9/11 which cancelled any scholarships in the US, so he had the decision of education or full time
work. There is not much known about Kai’s private life which leaves left to be uncovered.
This is some of his photography which he has
produced in the past couple years his most
recent being the image of A$AP ROCKY, His
style is different from other peoples because
it mixes it up by doing both black and white
photos alongside colored images which gives
him a wider range to pic from. The others
images on the left hand side are of the actor
Nathalie Emmanuel.

3. Bill Cunningham
Bill was an American born Street Photographer, he was born on March 13th 1929 and unfortunately
died on June 25th 2016.
In Bills early life he said that he couldn’t concentrate in Sunday church as he was distracted by
women's hats, which shows he went forth with this as he started making women's hats right before
he was drafted for the Korean War and he served 1 tour in the U.S. Army, after this he came back to
NY in 1953, where the NY times would name his work as “Most Extraordinary pretty cocktail hats
ever imagined” he was influenced by his clients and peers he started writing beginning with his
Women's wear Daily, from what I have read I can tell that he was very intrigued by females because
he had done a lot of work with female models and also with the hats and writing which shows the
type of character he is as he wanted to base his work more around females compared to males. His
main achievement would have to be his column in the NY times called On the street and Evening
hours, which ran from February 26th 1989 until his death on June 25th 2016, this is a major
achievement having it run for around 27 years and especially exceptional to have in the NY times.
Since beginning his career Bill Cunningham hasn’t really worked with a lot of major
names, this is because he prefers a natural look to his images and doesn’t want them
to look like paparazzi, his style is different a lot of other street photographers because
he doesn’t always use model instead in just gets random people to do things which I
asked for and then gets and image of them which could either be them posing for the
camera or acting normal which would give a much more realistic and natural theme to
it because you don’t see it very often. The only large name he worked with would
have to be New York Times which he spent the majority of his photography career
with.

4. Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca
Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca is a porta Rican born fashion photographer, who knew his passion was
photography by the age of 18 after being moved to Salina, Kansas where he was to study English
and also a change in the seasons. Although this was his striving passion he was insisted to keep it
as a hobby and continue to study where in 1983 he got a Bachelor of Business Administration in
Finance and Economics. In 1986 we lost his job in D.C., where he then decided to take a trip to
London but as his flight had issues he decided to stay in New York City where he never returned to
D.C., where in 1988 he got a job as a salesman at Ralph Lauren, which he worked his way up the
ladder eventually joining the men's design team in 1992. In 1995 he was hired to shoot Tyson
Beckford for Purple Label, Ralph did this because he was the portraits which he had done on his
son, in 1997 he pursued his career in fashion photography after leaving Ralph Lauren, as his career
progressed he shot a “Polo Ralph Lauren” in 2002. The main model which he is known for
photographing would have to be David Gandy for GQ in Japan, also another model of his would
have to be Joan Smalls who in 2013 and 2018 was seen as the 8th highest paid model in the world.
Also one of the most famous celebrities which he has shot over his career would have to be Paul
Rudd, it has never really been told who influenced Arnaldo at the age of 18 but whoever it is would
be proud of his achievements.
Arnaldo has worked with many different brands including GQ, Vogue and The New York Times
Magazine, which must have really propelled his career forward and also he works for around 4
brands each year.

5. Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh is American born Fashion Designer and Music Producer who was born on
September 30th 1980 in Rockford, Illinois , who is the CEO of Off-White which he founded in
2013, Abloh’s career started back in 2009 in Fendi with the rapper Kanye West, before founding
Off-White he began by his small business called Pyrex Vision, where he bough deadstock items
from Ralph Lauren for $40 and then sold them on for upwards of $500 by simply screen printing
his own designs on them but he shortly shut down this business as he didn’t expect it to be a
commercial enterprise. As he started Off-White he began with the women's wear line in 2014
and showed off the collection at the Paris Fashion Week. In 2017 Virgil produced a collection of
work which will be known as the biggest things he has made in his career which would be the
shoe collection called “The Ten” which is a collaboration with Nike. Virgil Abloh is married to a
women by the name of Shannon Sundberg, and has two children by the name of Lowe and
Grey, also about his life he has been put down as top 100 most influential people as of 2018. He
didn’t initially start his career of down this route as he began with a Bachelor of Science in Civil
engineering from University of Wisconsin-Madison in 2002.
Virgil has worked with many famous celebrities since the start of his career, Kanye West being
the first individual, and then moving onto others which include artists such as Skepta, Playboi
Carti which he uses as models for his shows and then works with other sports figures such as
Serena Williams who produced an outfit for her and the 2018 us Open, By working with many
different figures it has helped his career and the career of people around him.

6. This photo is from Ben
Cunningham, as you can tell
because at the same time as the
people look like they are models
but they have been put into a
normal surrounding which changes
the theme of the entire shot
because it makes the character able
to link to the audience, the one
thing which I like about this shot
would be the expressions on their
faces because they are not serious
they are having fun which is
different from the other
photographer Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca
because with his work it very
serious and there is hardly any
expression on their faces. These
kind of shots define a photographer
because it puts them down a linear
path to the kind of photography
which they are going to produce, as
people will no know you by one
photo.
When it comes to this image there is
a huge splash of colour which each
have their own meanings behind
them, and also alongside the colour
of the clothing the style is very
strange but fashionable which I don’t
think that Bill really cared about his
passion was more about what the
images look like as a whole, also he
has a lot of photography which is
based around women which puts him
in that category of photographers
which are mostly female. One thing
which you can tell by Bill’s
photography style would have to be
quite subtle and minimalistic as he
doesn’t do anything to make the
lighting better and also he doesn’t
often use black and white which a lot
of fashion photographers do, for
example with Arnaldo again as that is
his forte.

7. When it comes to Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca
you can see that he has clear style when
it comes to his photography because
nearly every photo which he has taken is
formal and serious, as he is trying to get
straight to the point of the shoot,
whether it is clothing or body care. As
well something which I can see would
have to be that he really likes to take
black and white images when it comes to
his work because I think I doesn’t show
marks on the skin, and also it doesn’t
make anything blurry and looks quite old
fashion which the companies that he
does photography are looking for which
makes him one of the best in that
department. His work is very different
compared to the other photographers
which I have selected because they don’t
have anything really in common with the
other photos as his are forced where as
the other person Bill Cunningham got
images which where completely random
which really work for his style of
The majority of Arnaldo's work is shot
with the same model nearly every time
and this model being David Gandy who is
a very well known model and the reason
he works with him would have to be that
he looks like he belongs in the vintage
style of photography as his appearance
works with Arnaldo's photography.

8. This is the polar opposite to any of
the photography I chose so far
because as you can tell it is very
staged which is the look they are
going for which works for this
because they are purposely trying
to show of their clothing to the
audience which depends on what
you are doing works for the most
part, but when it comes to doing
something different a staged look
doesn’t always look the best
because you are not seeing the
model in the natural state, which
Is why I really like bill
Cunningham's style because there
is a small line between staged and
not staged because as he has said
they are staged but he shoots
them so well that It looks like it is
completely natural which I may try
and dabble in because it gives the
model more of a neutral look on
the audience/
Something else which I really like
about this photography would
have to be the colours because
everything bounces of each other
in terms of the clothing and the
background which is something I
could try when it comes to project
but It may be a little difficult as I
will only have 3 possible
backgrounds in the studio which
are black, white and green but I
may find other places to shoot.
Also something I like would have
to be poses which the models are
doing because the female is
looking straight into the camera
and because the angle is little
lower than her she is shown as
being quite dominant and also
you can see the male model
looking up to her which may have
another behind it because she is
seen as the most powerful in this
photograph.

9. This is an advertising campaign
for a clothing brands known as
Sisley, the photography style is
very similar to many other outs
there because they are a very
abstract background which
contrast to the models clothing
which is something that works
very well as it makes the model
stands out more. Out of these I
would say I prefer the on of the
right which is the female model
standing in front of the red
background, the reason why I
really like this would be because
the black really stands out
because that is the first thing
which you see when it comes to
the piece of work, also once
again there is a fine line between
staged and not staged because
she looks likes she is doing a pose
which she has chosen which
shows that they are forced to
look a certain way.
The reason why I am not a huge
fan of the first photo would be
because there are lot of colours
which don’t really contrast each
other such as the red and the
dark blue. Also a reason I am not
a fan would be that it looks to
staged in my own opinion which
is something which I would want
to do. For this brands these
shoots are exceptional because
they are very professional as they
are worked with a high budget
they have managed to get these
shots as they front two for the
campaign which I would be happy
with. Also the photography style
if exceptional because they have
made sure that the models are
looking straight and the audience
through the camera so that it
gives the audience a neutral eye
level and not looking either
dominant or weak.
The final thing which I have to say would be that this
brand prominently use younger people to promote their
clothing and shy away from older people which is
something which I will be doing as the people I know are
from the ages of 18-20 which I can get to do my
photography and I wont be having any people older than
these because I don’t have the access to them and they
may not suit the style which I am trying to go for.

10. This kind of advertisement in
my opinion is amazing
because It is like something
you have have never seen
because because they have
added the background after
and taken the model out of
his surroundings and made it
look like book and he a
sticker which Is something
that I could only hope to
achieve but this is a very well
done advertisement strategy
because it gets the audience
to look, the reason it stands
out in comparison to normal
photoshoots would have to
be that the model is the only
which is real which I really
like because he looks so out
of place that I works for what
they are trying to sell to their
audience.
Something which Is very
simple which I really like
would have to be the white
silhouette behind which is the
inverted shadow which makes
him stand out because it puts
a different interpretation of
the shadows as they are
usually black. So by doing this
they make the model look
somewhat 3d on the page
which works very well.
Something else which I like
about this would have to be
that the colours works all over
page with what the model is
wearing because you can see
the tints of red and black in his
clothing which they have used
to make the background, in
my opinion this looks quite
similar to another celebrities
work which would be Virgil
Abloh.
I feel like my one critique to this photo would have to be
that there is so much on the page for the audience to focus
so I would have by reducing it they would have something
which I think would be a 10/10, also I like the neutral stance
and angle on the model.

11. Bibliography
• Janine Leah Bartels. (2015). Kai Z Feng on Coveting Celebrities. Available:
https://www.somethingaboutmagazine.com/kai-z-feng-coveting-celebrities/. Last accessed 14th jan 2019.
• Travis Shinn. (anon). Overview. Available: https://www.travisshinn.com/Overview/thumbs. Last accessed
14th Jan 2019.
• Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca. (anon). Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca. Available: http://www.no-
namemanagement.com/editorial/arnaldo-anaya-lucca. Last accessed 21st jan 2019.
• anon. (2014-16). Bill Cunningham. Available: https://www.nytimes.com/by/bill-cunningham. Last accessed
21st jan 2019.
• Virgil Abloh (2017). "TEXTBOOK". USA: Nike/Virgil Abloh. p1-p258.
• Bill Cunningham (2018). Fashion Climbing: A memoir with Photographs. New York: Bill Cunningham. p1-
p256.
• https://content.nike.com/content/dam/one-nike/en_us/season-2018-su/NikeLab/TEN/TEXTBOOK.pdf
• Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca (2018). THE RAKE / WE SHOT THE SHERIFFS. America: THE RAKE. p1-p11.