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Contextual Research
Emily Grace Porter
Corinne Day
Photographer
"Fashion magazines had been selling sex and glamour for far too long. I wanted to instill
some reality into a world of fantasy." - Corinne Day
Corinna Day’s work was genuine and raw and that’s why her images touches such a wide
audience. She also opened the door for new photographers by showing her understanding
of how fashion photography didn’t have to be an exclusive club for the wealthy and
privileged. The self-taught processes of Day’s work gave her fashion photography a harder,
less glossy look, she had real elements to the fashion image making. Her lifestyle and
fashion images of the 1990’s came to be known as ‘grunge’ and grew into an international
style. She captures the natural beauty of her models and portrays it powerfully without
dramatizing the settling and costume. Day was all about capturing the personality of her
models, and the moment itself. Thy style of the british vogue shoot evokes a feeling of
loneliness and urban alienation, this is indicated with alone Kate Moss in a state of
undress. Loneliness is portrayed again in one image, Kate is peering out the window to the
rest of the city with a blank expression on her face suggesting boredom at her
loneliness. They also show Kate Moss’ slender frame and her look became mainstream; a
thin, androgynous look, this look became the waif and was also known as “heroin chic”.
Vogue UK June 1993 - Underexposed
FACE August 1993 - Englands Dreaming
Katie Grand
Katie grand's resume is draw droppingly successful and inspirational, it seems she has no
limits. In addition to her role as editor-in-chief of Love magazine, grand also works as a
stylist and creative consultant, having worked on some of the most style defining shows and
advertising campaigns in recent years. She is also senior contributing fashion editor of
Interview magazine, Contributing Fashion Editor of GQ and regular contributor to Vogue
Paris, Vogue Japan and Vogue Home International.
Pop is a British fashion magazine co-founded in 2000 by Ashley Heath and editor Katie
Grand. The first issue was launched in September 2000, Grand said that’s her main
concept was that "it to be really jolly. And pink - I was obsessed with it being pink".
In 2008 Grand left Pop, along with creative directors Swillingham and Spalding, to establish
a rival magazine, Love, published by conde Nast. Like Pop, Love is also bi-annually
released and both magazines had a similar style and aesthetic this is obviously due to Katie
Grand
Pop relaunched in an online digital format as THEPOP.COM and the first issue under new
management was released in September 2009.
The aesthetic of both of these magazines reflects Grands style, her style stands for the fact
it isn't following fashion but setting fashions agenda. Her magazines is set for designers, for
artists, for anyone looking for visual ideas, for anyone who loves fashion and design. Their
Drew Jarrett
Photographer
Drew Jarrett's individual approach to photography has been recognized over the last 20 years
as a unique and consistent style. He captures moments and uses all the aspects (lighting,
setting, fashion) of an images for the effect he's portraying. He believes in raw beauty instead
of creating it, you see this through his images where the models are natural and its not Posey
at all its all about the moment.
I chose to research Jarrett's work because his style is the style I want to try portray. I like the
natural, capturing a moment images because of how real they feel. I like the idea of capturing
actions and moments and then moments being seen through a visual of art and fashion.
Drew jarret began his photography career whilst livig in West London, along with
photographers Mario Sorrenti and Glen Luchford and working with Corrine Day and Melanie
Ward. He was finding himself and his asethetic, refining his eye with his camera. He began
taking images of his friends and family and even hijacking his froends shoots once he became
bored of high hairdressing job. His first published work was a book called "1994," this would at
the time not get the attention he expected or deserved but years later would become iconic
images. The book consisted of his contacts sheets being chopped up and collaged together,
its filled with street photography and impromptu portraits, two aspects of photography I want in
my own magazine.
1994 – Drew Jarrett
Product Research
Emily Grace Porter
93 Magazine
'A projection of visual content for makers of all disciplines published in the medium of print -What we
did then and who we are now' - 93 Magazine twitter Bio
93 Magazine is a visual culture magazine the showcases Manchester's up and coming talents, from
photographers to hairdressers with an interest in graphic design, 93 lets those who have no where but
their own social media to show the world their passions and talents.
93 Magazine has a very modern approach to layout and aesthetic. They portray the understanding
how sometimes an image doesn't make sense but the visual aesthetic gives it the attitude
its portraying.
Their audience is niche due to location and funding. 93 magazine is Manchester based and indulges
on the Manchester love with the people all linking to the popular city. They appeal to; photographers,
stylist, musicians, people with a creative career but also people who have interests in the same topics.
Manchester locals are also a huge part of their target audience as it allows locals to see the up and
coming talents of the local people and a sense of pride will keep these buyers buying new issues.
The reason I chose to research 93 magazine was due to the layout and themes. This magazine
changed my view on my own, it made me aware of the type of photography and the reactions I want
to get where different to the theme of magazine I was planning on creating. This research of 93
magazine gave me a very clear understanding of my product. This happened through viewing the
magazine and loving the layout, the layout got my attention and then I started to understand the vibe
93 Magazine
Riposte
Riposte is a London-based magazine that is Profiling bold and fascinating women since
2013. The magazine highlights strong and powerful women who are making positive
change in the world today because of the strong message behind the magazine, Riposte
has made its mark as a smart alternative to mainstream women’s magazines. Riposte
offers intelligent content and inspirational women in a beautifully designed format.
Riposte profiles bold and fascinating women whose achievements speak for themselves.
The magazine context includes examples of work from women all over the world and
honest interviews with women discuss their successes, failures, work and passions, and
the other features are from a broad range of issues including art, design, music,
business, innovation, politics, food and travel. Why I chose to research this magazine
was beause of the context behind it, there isnt one set topic but its all under the same
theme of emowered women. I also like the consistancy in style, the magazines design is
bold and flows throughout the magazine. I want my magazine to have the same
cohesitivity when it comes to style and design and also I want my magazine to have a
strong statement behind it, I want a message that people will feel something when
viewing and reading instead of just being passive whilst going through my magazine.
Riposte
Sweet Thang Zine
In 2017, Zoe Thompson discovered that there wasn’t any arts and literary zine available
that was dealing exclusively with the issues of black women, she created “Sweet Thang
Zine”. This zine is an arts and literary zine/journal discussing and celebrating work
created by black women from around the world. Each issue of Sweet thang aims to
empowers the women in black society today to be string and to feel good about
themselves, the zine spread knowledge to all those black women who are credited all
around the world for either doing something or being someone great and effective. The
reason why I chose to research this magazine was because of the strong aim and also
the unique design and style. The topics and themes are many and distinct, what links
them is the shared experience of being black and being women, a shared history and a
shared reality. I took the aim as passionate and string, it's clear and distinct along with
the target audience, I want my magazine to be about those who it is aimed at, I want
them to feel a personal connection and to relate to the context. I like the over all deign
and style of the magazine on a while, Its unique with quirky concepts and illustrations.
One idea in particular which caught my eye, where the drawn hearts, I like the idea of my
own drawings featured overlaying on top of images.
Sweet Thang Zine
Target Audience
When conducting research, I gained knowledge about all types of audience that read
different types of magazines. From this I learnt that the majority of people who read fashion
photography magazines were females about the age of 25 years old. I knew I wanted my
magazine's focus to be photography, but after gaining knowledge from these statistics and
also looking into different styles of photography magazines. I also knew I wanted a
magazine aimed towards my own age group (18-21 year old's) and also for them to not only
enjoy reading my magazine but to be able to relate to it as well. After looking at a couple of
statistics and also looking into different styles of photography magazine's, I changed my
direction away from fashion. I chose that my target audience would be generation Z, and in
particular 18-21 year old's. Generation Z were born between 1995 and 2009, they are a
cohort that is more populous and influential on consumer spending and electronic
communications than any other generations before them. 60% of generation Z would
support brands that take a stand for serious issues, from this I took that generation Z want a
voice and want to be heard and therefore had the idea to feature people from generation Z
in my magazine. I wanted to have different individuals of my target audience representing
their own generation.
Insight
I began my research by choosing three influential people who's work and career, I can pull
ideas and inspirations from due to their style and aesthetic and their impact and audience. I
then looked at published products (magazines) that I also believe to be similar to my own
magazine idea. When looking at published products, I looked at: audience, market and
production. About half way through completing my research, I decided that I wanted to
change the complete style of my magazine, I started debating if I should change the style
from a fashion photography magazine to a social culture photography magazine. I ultimately
began thinking of making the change when I found '93 magazine' and saw how their style and
layout related to my ideas of raw photography and "capturing the moment" aesthetic that I
was after, also it was a completely different style magazine and completely different style
photography that what I've produced before and I like the idea of a change and the challenge
from anew style that I haven't produced before. After finalising the fact I was changing my
product style, I realised my new magazine idea had a smaller, niche target audiences and
looked into more magazines with this smaller target audince. I had the idea to create a
instagram page along side my magazine, this creates a social media audience separate from
my audience who buy and view the printed version of the magazine. This social media profile
will widen the reach pf people that can view the content of my magazine, through the fact
social media runs todays generation and reaches a worldwide audience. Maagzines that a
uique and modern have a soavial media page coandsiding with their printed eddition, this
Bibliography
Corinne Day. Corinne Day Autobiography . Available: https://www.corinneday.co.uk/autobiography/. Last accessed 21/01/19.
Idea. Drew Jarret 1994. Available: http://www.ideanow.online/store/Drew-Jarrett-1994-p92678216. Last accessed 23/01/19.
PYLOT. (2019). PYLOT MAGAZINE . Available: https://www.pylotmagazine.com. Last accessed 29/01/19.
CONDE NAST JSC. (2017). Brands / Vogue /
Audience. Available: https://www.condenast.ru/en/portfolio/magazines/vogue/circulation/. Last accessed 28/01/19.
Socialbakers. (2019). LOVE MAGAZINE Twitter
Followers. Available: https://www.socialbakers.com/statistics/twitter/profiles/detail/41469938-thelovemagazine. Last
accessed 29/01/19.
Naomi Boyles. (February 29, 2016 ). LOVE MAGAZINE . Available: http://naomiboylesmakeup.wixsite.com/blog/single-
post/2016/02/06/Love-Magazine. Last accessed 29/01/19.
Max Lakin. (2017). These 1994 Pictures of Kate Moss, Stella Tennant, and Milla Jovovich Could've Been Iconic. But They Haven't
Been Seen Until Now.. Available: https://www.wmagazine.com/story/kate-moss-stella-tennant-unseen-pictures-drew-jarrett-
1994 Last accessed 6/01/19.
Millenialsmarketing.com
Vogue.com
Alex King. (2015). Five best photography zines. Available: https://www.huckmag.com/art-and-culture/photography-2/top-picks-
photography-2/five-best-photography-zines/ Last accessed 24/01/19.
Big Cartel. (2017). Sweet-thang Zine . Available: https://sweetthangzine.bigcartel.com Last accessed 24/01/19.

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Capturing Generation Z: Raw Photography for a New Age

  • 2. Corinne Day Photographer "Fashion magazines had been selling sex and glamour for far too long. I wanted to instill some reality into a world of fantasy." - Corinne Day Corinna Day’s work was genuine and raw and that’s why her images touches such a wide audience. She also opened the door for new photographers by showing her understanding of how fashion photography didn’t have to be an exclusive club for the wealthy and privileged. The self-taught processes of Day’s work gave her fashion photography a harder, less glossy look, she had real elements to the fashion image making. Her lifestyle and fashion images of the 1990’s came to be known as ‘grunge’ and grew into an international style. She captures the natural beauty of her models and portrays it powerfully without dramatizing the settling and costume. Day was all about capturing the personality of her models, and the moment itself. Thy style of the british vogue shoot evokes a feeling of loneliness and urban alienation, this is indicated with alone Kate Moss in a state of undress. Loneliness is portrayed again in one image, Kate is peering out the window to the rest of the city with a blank expression on her face suggesting boredom at her loneliness. They also show Kate Moss’ slender frame and her look became mainstream; a thin, androgynous look, this look became the waif and was also known as “heroin chic”.
  • 3. Vogue UK June 1993 - Underexposed
  • 4. FACE August 1993 - Englands Dreaming
  • 5. Katie Grand Katie grand's resume is draw droppingly successful and inspirational, it seems she has no limits. In addition to her role as editor-in-chief of Love magazine, grand also works as a stylist and creative consultant, having worked on some of the most style defining shows and advertising campaigns in recent years. She is also senior contributing fashion editor of Interview magazine, Contributing Fashion Editor of GQ and regular contributor to Vogue Paris, Vogue Japan and Vogue Home International. Pop is a British fashion magazine co-founded in 2000 by Ashley Heath and editor Katie Grand. The first issue was launched in September 2000, Grand said that’s her main concept was that "it to be really jolly. And pink - I was obsessed with it being pink". In 2008 Grand left Pop, along with creative directors Swillingham and Spalding, to establish a rival magazine, Love, published by conde Nast. Like Pop, Love is also bi-annually released and both magazines had a similar style and aesthetic this is obviously due to Katie Grand Pop relaunched in an online digital format as THEPOP.COM and the first issue under new management was released in September 2009. The aesthetic of both of these magazines reflects Grands style, her style stands for the fact it isn't following fashion but setting fashions agenda. Her magazines is set for designers, for artists, for anyone looking for visual ideas, for anyone who loves fashion and design. Their
  • 6.
  • 7. Drew Jarrett Photographer Drew Jarrett's individual approach to photography has been recognized over the last 20 years as a unique and consistent style. He captures moments and uses all the aspects (lighting, setting, fashion) of an images for the effect he's portraying. He believes in raw beauty instead of creating it, you see this through his images where the models are natural and its not Posey at all its all about the moment. I chose to research Jarrett's work because his style is the style I want to try portray. I like the natural, capturing a moment images because of how real they feel. I like the idea of capturing actions and moments and then moments being seen through a visual of art and fashion. Drew jarret began his photography career whilst livig in West London, along with photographers Mario Sorrenti and Glen Luchford and working with Corrine Day and Melanie Ward. He was finding himself and his asethetic, refining his eye with his camera. He began taking images of his friends and family and even hijacking his froends shoots once he became bored of high hairdressing job. His first published work was a book called "1994," this would at the time not get the attention he expected or deserved but years later would become iconic images. The book consisted of his contacts sheets being chopped up and collaged together, its filled with street photography and impromptu portraits, two aspects of photography I want in my own magazine.
  • 8. 1994 – Drew Jarrett
  • 10. 93 Magazine 'A projection of visual content for makers of all disciplines published in the medium of print -What we did then and who we are now' - 93 Magazine twitter Bio 93 Magazine is a visual culture magazine the showcases Manchester's up and coming talents, from photographers to hairdressers with an interest in graphic design, 93 lets those who have no where but their own social media to show the world their passions and talents. 93 Magazine has a very modern approach to layout and aesthetic. They portray the understanding how sometimes an image doesn't make sense but the visual aesthetic gives it the attitude its portraying. Their audience is niche due to location and funding. 93 magazine is Manchester based and indulges on the Manchester love with the people all linking to the popular city. They appeal to; photographers, stylist, musicians, people with a creative career but also people who have interests in the same topics. Manchester locals are also a huge part of their target audience as it allows locals to see the up and coming talents of the local people and a sense of pride will keep these buyers buying new issues. The reason I chose to research 93 magazine was due to the layout and themes. This magazine changed my view on my own, it made me aware of the type of photography and the reactions I want to get where different to the theme of magazine I was planning on creating. This research of 93 magazine gave me a very clear understanding of my product. This happened through viewing the magazine and loving the layout, the layout got my attention and then I started to understand the vibe
  • 12. Riposte Riposte is a London-based magazine that is Profiling bold and fascinating women since 2013. The magazine highlights strong and powerful women who are making positive change in the world today because of the strong message behind the magazine, Riposte has made its mark as a smart alternative to mainstream women’s magazines. Riposte offers intelligent content and inspirational women in a beautifully designed format. Riposte profiles bold and fascinating women whose achievements speak for themselves. The magazine context includes examples of work from women all over the world and honest interviews with women discuss their successes, failures, work and passions, and the other features are from a broad range of issues including art, design, music, business, innovation, politics, food and travel. Why I chose to research this magazine was beause of the context behind it, there isnt one set topic but its all under the same theme of emowered women. I also like the consistancy in style, the magazines design is bold and flows throughout the magazine. I want my magazine to have the same cohesitivity when it comes to style and design and also I want my magazine to have a strong statement behind it, I want a message that people will feel something when viewing and reading instead of just being passive whilst going through my magazine.
  • 14. Sweet Thang Zine In 2017, Zoe Thompson discovered that there wasn’t any arts and literary zine available that was dealing exclusively with the issues of black women, she created “Sweet Thang Zine”. This zine is an arts and literary zine/journal discussing and celebrating work created by black women from around the world. Each issue of Sweet thang aims to empowers the women in black society today to be string and to feel good about themselves, the zine spread knowledge to all those black women who are credited all around the world for either doing something or being someone great and effective. The reason why I chose to research this magazine was because of the strong aim and also the unique design and style. The topics and themes are many and distinct, what links them is the shared experience of being black and being women, a shared history and a shared reality. I took the aim as passionate and string, it's clear and distinct along with the target audience, I want my magazine to be about those who it is aimed at, I want them to feel a personal connection and to relate to the context. I like the over all deign and style of the magazine on a while, Its unique with quirky concepts and illustrations. One idea in particular which caught my eye, where the drawn hearts, I like the idea of my own drawings featured overlaying on top of images.
  • 16. Target Audience When conducting research, I gained knowledge about all types of audience that read different types of magazines. From this I learnt that the majority of people who read fashion photography magazines were females about the age of 25 years old. I knew I wanted my magazine's focus to be photography, but after gaining knowledge from these statistics and also looking into different styles of photography magazines. I also knew I wanted a magazine aimed towards my own age group (18-21 year old's) and also for them to not only enjoy reading my magazine but to be able to relate to it as well. After looking at a couple of statistics and also looking into different styles of photography magazine's, I changed my direction away from fashion. I chose that my target audience would be generation Z, and in particular 18-21 year old's. Generation Z were born between 1995 and 2009, they are a cohort that is more populous and influential on consumer spending and electronic communications than any other generations before them. 60% of generation Z would support brands that take a stand for serious issues, from this I took that generation Z want a voice and want to be heard and therefore had the idea to feature people from generation Z in my magazine. I wanted to have different individuals of my target audience representing their own generation.
  • 17. Insight I began my research by choosing three influential people who's work and career, I can pull ideas and inspirations from due to their style and aesthetic and their impact and audience. I then looked at published products (magazines) that I also believe to be similar to my own magazine idea. When looking at published products, I looked at: audience, market and production. About half way through completing my research, I decided that I wanted to change the complete style of my magazine, I started debating if I should change the style from a fashion photography magazine to a social culture photography magazine. I ultimately began thinking of making the change when I found '93 magazine' and saw how their style and layout related to my ideas of raw photography and "capturing the moment" aesthetic that I was after, also it was a completely different style magazine and completely different style photography that what I've produced before and I like the idea of a change and the challenge from anew style that I haven't produced before. After finalising the fact I was changing my product style, I realised my new magazine idea had a smaller, niche target audiences and looked into more magazines with this smaller target audince. I had the idea to create a instagram page along side my magazine, this creates a social media audience separate from my audience who buy and view the printed version of the magazine. This social media profile will widen the reach pf people that can view the content of my magazine, through the fact social media runs todays generation and reaches a worldwide audience. Maagzines that a uique and modern have a soavial media page coandsiding with their printed eddition, this
  • 18. Bibliography Corinne Day. Corinne Day Autobiography . Available: https://www.corinneday.co.uk/autobiography/. Last accessed 21/01/19. Idea. Drew Jarret 1994. Available: http://www.ideanow.online/store/Drew-Jarrett-1994-p92678216. Last accessed 23/01/19. PYLOT. (2019). PYLOT MAGAZINE . Available: https://www.pylotmagazine.com. Last accessed 29/01/19. CONDE NAST JSC. (2017). Brands / Vogue / Audience. Available: https://www.condenast.ru/en/portfolio/magazines/vogue/circulation/. Last accessed 28/01/19. Socialbakers. (2019). LOVE MAGAZINE Twitter Followers. Available: https://www.socialbakers.com/statistics/twitter/profiles/detail/41469938-thelovemagazine. Last accessed 29/01/19. Naomi Boyles. (February 29, 2016 ). LOVE MAGAZINE . Available: http://naomiboylesmakeup.wixsite.com/blog/single- post/2016/02/06/Love-Magazine. Last accessed 29/01/19. Max Lakin. (2017). These 1994 Pictures of Kate Moss, Stella Tennant, and Milla Jovovich Could've Been Iconic. But They Haven't Been Seen Until Now.. Available: https://www.wmagazine.com/story/kate-moss-stella-tennant-unseen-pictures-drew-jarrett- 1994 Last accessed 6/01/19. Millenialsmarketing.com Vogue.com Alex King. (2015). Five best photography zines. Available: https://www.huckmag.com/art-and-culture/photography-2/top-picks- photography-2/five-best-photography-zines/ Last accessed 24/01/19. Big Cartel. (2017). Sweet-thang Zine . Available: https://sweetthangzine.bigcartel.com Last accessed 24/01/19.