i hope,,,this ppt will be more helpful for every fresher textile engineer....that provide the basic concept of quality for the product or service,,,,,,

1. INTRODUCTION
NAME:MD MONJURUL ALAM
PROGRAM:BSC IN TEXTILE
ID:141-23-134

2. Basic Concept
Of
Quality
2

3. Quality?
 The totality of features and characteristics of a product or
service that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or implied
needs
 The degree of excellence that a product posses.
 Quality refers to the characteristics of a product or service
that defines its ability to consistently meet or exceed the
customer demand.
My perception about quality:
 The Quality of a product is like the blood of a human body.
3

4. Aspects of quality
 Performance: This refers to appropriate functionality of the product
or whether the product performs satisfactory as desired or expected by
the customer.
 Conformance: Conformance means as per specification. It refers to
how well or accurately a product or service correspond to designed.
 Reliability: It refers to the ability of an item to perform a required
function under stated conditions for a period of time.
 Durability: This refers to useful technical life or longevity of
performance of the product or service.
4

5. Aspects of quality
 Innovative features: Innovative features refers to extra useful
characteristics of the product ,more than the desired primary ones
 Service after sale: For many years, Service after sale had been
considered as an extra business. But, now-a-days, because of
increased focus on customer satisfaction, service after sale is
considered as part of the product.
 Maintainability/serviceability: Maintenance and servicing of
engineering products are of importance now-a-days to a large
cross-section of customers.
5

6. Aspects of quality
 Ease of use: One of the recent trends of customers quality
requirement is ease of use of product. Customer never like a product
which is complex to use. Thus, ease of use has become one of the
major aspect of quality.
 Aesthetics: Aesthetic of product, especially in case of customer
goods, is a utmost importance to customers. Thus, aesthetic is also an
important aspect of quality.
 Others: Now-a-days, many other aspect, such as safety, health
issues etc. are considered as part and parcel of quality.
6

7. Factors affecting quality
 Customer: They are the ultimate users or beneficiaries of quality.
As such, any quality management drive should focus on this
element while preparing a quality plan.
 Processes: This element is responsible for transforming the inputs
to quality outputs. Traditionally, people used to think that the
process is only factor which needs to be controlled for ensuring
quality. Modern quality management views that employees and
materials should be responsible for quality.
7

8. Factors affecting quality
 Employee: Now-a-days, role of employee in delivering quality
product is valued highly. Employees are considered as internal
customers, who need to be kept satisfied in order to deliver
quality product. Thus, they should be trained regularly with high
degree of motivation and skill.
 Materials (Suppliers): Role of suppliers in delivering quality
goods is now well recognized. A good manufacturing process does
not have much to contribute to quality if supplied materials are
not of enough good quality.
8

9. Quality Control?
 Quality control can be defined as the checking, verification
and regulation of degree of excellence of an attribute or
property of something.
 The operational techniques and activities that are used to
fulfill requirements of quality.
9

10. Type of quality control
Mainly 2 types of quality control:
i) Process control
ii) Product control
i) Process control: Controlling of process sequence or steps
to produce desired quality product is called process
control.
ii) Product control: The control which is used to decrease
defective items within different lots of produced good is
known as product control.
It is applied after production process
10

11. Type of quality control
Process control is two types:
a) Online quality control
b) Offline quality control
a) Online quality control: This type of quality control is performed
in process stage i.e. without stopping the production process, during
the production running time, the machine automatically tests the
variation and takes immediate step to rectify the variation.
Checking and rectification of variation/fault in processing stage is
known as online quality control.
Example: #Roving tension control device in simplex machine.
#Sliver hank is controlled by autoleveller in carding & draw
frame.
11

12. Type of quality control
b) Offline quality control: This type of quality control
consists of laboratory tests which are done by stopping the
production process.
Here necessary steps are taken according to test result.
Example: #Checking of count and TPI variation
#Strength testing
#Evenness testing
12

13. Textile testing?
 Laboratory experiment to determine textile data of fibre,
yarn, fabric and end use product.
 Textile testing is the application of engineering knowledge
and science for the measurement of properties and
characteristics of textile materials (Fibre, yarn, fabric etc.)
It involves the use of techniques, tools, instruments and
machines in laboratory for the evaluation of the properties
of these different textile materials.
13

14. Importance of textile testing
 To determine the properties and characteristics of fibre
yarn, fabric and end product.
 To compare the qualities of textile raw materials,
intermediate products and finished products.
 To maintain the standard established by different
organization. Example: ISO, AATCC.BSTI etc.
 To meet market and consumer demand standard.
 To improve and control processing techniques for research
and developments.
14

15. Factors affecting test result
 The sampling
 Atmospheric condition for testing
 Method of testing
 Instrument used
 Efficiency of the technicians
 Etc.
15

16. Application of Quality Control
in
Spinning
16

17. Critical difference(CD):
 Critical difference is a measure of the difference between two values
that occur due to normal or unavoidable causes.
When the difference between two values exceed that of the critical
difference, the two values are said to be statically different.
 Critical differences depends on:
i) CV%
ii) No of test.
17

18. Calculation of CD%
 CD%(New)=CD% (table)√(N1/N2)
Here, N1=Number of test recommended in the table
N2= Number of test actually conducted
Table-1: No. of test and critical difference (%) for various fibre
properties:
Fibre Property No. of tests CD(%)
2.5% span length 4combs/sample 4
Uniformity ratio 4combs/sample 5
Microniare value 4plugs/sample 6
Fibre strength 10breaks/sample 5
Trash content 8 test/sample 7
18

19. Calculation of CD%
Yarn Property No. of tests CD(%)
Lea count 40 2
Strength 40 4
Single yarn strength 100 2.8
Evenness 5 2.8
Table-2: No. of test and critical difference (%) for various yarn
properties:
19

20. Problem
 Problem-1
A mill wanted to purchase a cotton of 3.7 microns value to spin
50s count. The sample cotton received from a party was tested for
micronaire and it was found to be 3.9 ( on the basis of 4 test).The
mill is interested to know that whether the sample cotton
conforms the mills requirements.
 Problem-2. Mill C received 5 cotton samples from A & B. Their
strength value were found to be 22 g/tex and 24 g/tex
respectively (based on 5 tests). Which decision was taken by the
mill?
 Problem-3. Mill Z received yarn sample from gulshan spinning mill
and karim spinning mill. Their strength was found 20 g/tex and 22
g/tex (Based on five tests). Which dicision will be taken by the
mill?
20

21. Uniformity ratio
 Staple length: Staple length is defined as the length of a
typical portion of sample of fibres i.e. full length or end to end
length.
 Span length: Span length is defined as the distance exceeded by
a specific% of fibres extending from a random catch point.
 2.5% Span length: 25% span length is defined as the distance
of 2.5% of the fibres extended from the clamp where they are
caught at random along their length.
 50% Span length: 50% span length is defined as the distance of
50% of the fibres extended from the clamp where they are caught
at random along their length.
21

22. Uniformity ratio
 Uniformity ratio: Uniformity ratio is defined as the ratio of
50% span length to the 2.5% span length expressed as a
percentage.
The uniformity ratio is a measure of the length variability of
cotton fibre.
If the uniformity ratio increases then the variability will be
decreased.
22

23. Yarn Fault
The undesirable and sometimes unavoidable defects that are found in
yarn are known as yarn fault. It is impossible to produce fault-free
yarn. So the spinners try to produce yarn with considerable limit
of fault.
Faults found in yarn are:
 Count variation
 Unevenness & irregularity
 Frequently occurring fault
 Seldom occurring fault
 Hairiness
 Lot mixing
23

24. Types of Yarn Fault
 Count variation: According to the textile institute, “ Count is
the mathematical expression of fineness which expresses the
length per unit weight of weight per unit length”. Practically ± 3
count variation is acceptable. Count can be measured by wrap
reel and balance or using count measuring software (CMS).
 Unevenness or irregularity: It is the mass variation per unit
length. Cut length is taken generally 1cm. This fault is expressed
as U% or CV%. Evenness tester is used to measure unevenness.
24

25. Types of Yarn Fault
 Frequently occurring fault: These faults occur in yarn 10-5000
times per 1000m of yarn. Yarn spun from staple fibres contains
‘imperfection’ which can be subdivided into three groups. These
three faults are normally measured in no. of faults per 1 km.
These types of faults are determined during evenness testing with
imperfection indicator.
Here, D= Dia of normal yarn
Imperfection X-sectional size Fault length
Thin place D-(30 to 60)% of D 4 to 25 mm
Thick place D+(35 to 100)% of D 4 to 25 mm
Neps D+(40 to 400)% of D 1 mm
25

26. Types of Yarn Fault
 Seldom occurring fault: These faults are referred as yarn fault
and characterized in the form of thick and thin places in the yarn
which are so seldom-occurring that for their determination at least
1000 km of yarn must be tested.
Here, D= Dia of normal yarn
Fault Name Thickness Fault length
Short Thick place Above +100% of D Approx. 0-8cm
Long Thick place Above +45% of D More than 8cm
Thin place Above -30% of D More than 8cm
26

27. Types of Yarn Fault
 Hairiness: Hairiness means the protruding fibres on yarn surface.
It is the ratio of the total length of hair in any unit to the length
observed in same unit. Generally it is measured as the ratio of
total length of protruding fibres (in cm) per cm of yarn. The
hairiness value is the ratio of two lengths; so it has no unit.
 Lot mixing: Sometimes two lots can be mixed at the stage of
sliver, roving, bobbin, cone and cartoon in spinning mill, as well
as in the preparatory section weaving and knitting mill. This type
of mixing causes several problems in subsequent process.
27

28. Causes of imperfection
 Causes of thick & thin places:
1. Short fibre content
2. Improper draft
3. Poor efficiency of carding & combing
4. Twist variation
 Causes of Neps:
 Immature fibre
 Improper ginning
 Improper carding speed & card setting
 Less efficiency of card
 Improper drafting speed
28

29. Factors Affecting Yarn Strength
1) Quality of Mixing:
 Fibre Properties: Better length, strength & fineness of fibre gives
better yarn strength.
 Mixing Ratio: Proper mixing leads to higher & uniform yarn
strength.
2) Quality of carding:
 Mechanical condition of all carding surface
 Waste control in carding action
 Proper maintenance
29

30. Factors Affecting Yarn Strength
3) Quality of comber:
 Level of comber waste.
 Mechanical condition of comber.
4) Quality of drafting at ring frame:
 Mechanical condition of the drafting system.
 Total draft.
 Break draft.
 Types of drafting system
30

31. Factors Affecting Yarn Strength
5) Quality of twisting at ring frame:
 Amount of appropriate twist.
 Level of twist
 Uniformity of twist
6) Other processing factor:
 Atmospheric condition
 Static electricity
 Direction of feeding of fibre hooks.
31

32. Fibre testing equipments
 HVI: For fineness, color, trash, length & strength measurement.
 AFIS: For neps, size of neps, fibre length, short fibre content,
fineness, immature fibre content, no. and size of trash
measurement.
 Shirley Analyser: For trash content measurement.
 Nep counter: For fibre length, neps, short fibre measurement.
 Moisture Regain tester: For MR% testing.
32

33. Lap, Sliver & Roving testing equipments
 Lap length counter
 Balance, Scale, Wrap block: For testing sliver & roving testing.
 Nep counting board
 Auto sorter: For sliver count testing.
 Evenness tester.
33

34. Yarn testing equipments
 Wrap reel and balance: Yarn count testing
 Auto sorter: For count & CV% analysis
 Evenness tester: yarn imperfection, U%, hairiness etc.
 Uster classimate: Yarn fault analysis.
 Yarn tension meter
 Twist tester
 Yarn strength tester
Software:
 BIAS: For bale management
 CDS: For Automatic count measuring
34

35. Quality Control
in
Fabric Manufacturing
35

36. Points to be maintained for quality winding
 Appropriate winding tension
 Free from different count mixing
 Winding machine should be free from mechanical fault (For
example, Free from defective traversing motion, fault free yarn
guide etc.)
 The knots & splices must have sufficient strength and stability.
 Winding should be carried out at high speed in order to get high
productivity. At high speed less time & auto coner will be
required.
36

37. Factors affecting the quality of warping
 Condition of the beam flange: If the beam flange get damaged
then unwinding at the two edges will not be satisfactory. There
will also be problem in sizing and weaving. Beam flange get
damaged due to improper handling and improper storage. Empty
bobbin should be checked on a regular basis and repairment
should be done on a regular basis.
 Stop motion: Stop motion should be capable of stopping the
machine immediately after any end break. Sometimes flying dust
and tufts gets stuck in the stop motion so that the machine does
not stop even after any end break. Creel fans should work
properly.
 Beam barrel diameter: Smaller dia gives high unwinding
tension during sizing, though it can accommodate more yarns.
37

38. Factors affecting the quality of warping
 Condition of the driving drum: Driving drum is used to drive
the warp beam by means of frictional force. In case of modern
machines the warp beam is driven directly, however a drum is
used to stop the rotating beam instantly. Any roughness of the
drum is therefore dangerous for the safety of the yarn.
 Length measuring motion: This device should work properly.
Miss representation of the actual length may cause unnecessary
wastage or shortage of yarn. The size% calculated from the length
of the yarn. So a wrong length measuring will lead to incorrect
estimation of the size%.
 Density of the beam: In order to obtain satisfactory result the
warp beam must be sufficiently compacted. The compactness
should not be achieved by means of yarn tension rather it has to
be achieved by means of creating pressure by drum
38

39. Factors influencing size pick up %
 Viscosity of the size paste in the size box
 Squeezing pressure & condition of squeezing nip.
 Yarn tension
 Yarn twist
 Speed of the sizing machine
 Duration of immersion in the size paste
 Level of size paste
 Density of the warp
 Dia of the yarns
39

40. Factors influencing drying efficiency
 Speed of sizing
 No of end in warp sheet (density)
 Pick up % of size to be applied
 Linear density of warp
 Box concentration
 Temperature of the drying cylinder
 Area of contact around the cylinder
40

41. Consequences of fabric defects
 The customer (garments manufacturer) may totally reject the
defective fabric.
 If the rate of defect is not very high in that case fabric is
accepted with certain penalization in terms of either reduction of
cost of the fabric or additional fabric is demanded by the buyer.
This means that fabric defect may ultimately reduce the
profitability of the concern entrepreneur.
 The garment manufacturer will be in trouble in handling a
defective fabric in the cutting table.
 In spite of all preventive measures, garments are produced with
fabric defects that result in ultimate rejection of the particular
garment or even rejection of the whole lot.
41

42. Knitting faults
 Loop length variation: This problem arises in weft knitting due
to-
1. Fluctuation in yarn variables
2. Fluctuation in machine variables
1. Fluctuation in yarn variables: Yarn variables are-
a) Yarn count b) Twist c) Package hardness d) Flexibility e) etc.
2. Fluctuation in machine variables: Machine variables include-
a) Temp. b) Machine gauge b) Cam setting d) Yarn tension e)
Fabric take-down tension f) Needle & sinker timing.
42

43. Knitting faults
 Barre: This defect occurs in circular knitting machines due to-
1. Lot mixing of yarn
2. Variation in package hardness
3. Improper yarn tension
4. Uneven dyed yarn
 Holes: Holes are caused by-
1. Broken needle
2. Less strength of yarn, which breaks during loop formation
3. Presence of mineral particle in fibre/yarn ( In this case, hole
is created during bleaching)
43

44. Knitting faults
 Lycra out: This fault is occurred if the machine is not
immediately after the breakage of lycra during production. It is
happened due to-
1. Careless supervision
2. Faulty auto stop motion
 Needle mark: Needle marks is caused by the defective needles
and faulty needle setting.
 Oil staining: Oil staining is occurred due to dirty machine or
improper lubrication.
 Fly yarn: This fault is occurred when the flying yarn get mixed
with the yarn during knitting.
44

45. Knitting faults
 Crease mark: Crease mark is caused by-
1. Yarn tension variation
2. Lower GSM of fabric
3. Faulty fabric take-up
 Drop stitch: Main causes of drop stitch are-
 Defective needles
 Wrong setting of yarn feeder.
 Bad take up.
 Sinker mark: Sinker mark is caused by the defective sinker.
 Etc.
45

46. Fabric Quality Affected During Weaving
 Fabric width
 Fabric length
 EPI in the fabric
 PPI in the fabric
 GSM
 Design of fabric
 Softness of fabric
 Air permeability of fabric
 Water permeability of fabric
 Strength of fabric
 Appearance of fabric
Of them fabric length and width may be decreased due to
shrinkage. EPI and PPI may also be increased due to shrinkage
of fabric.
46

47. Common defects of woven fabrics
 Bar: It is a band running across the full width of cloth due to
difference in appearance from its adjacent surface. This term
covers a number of specific defect as below:
1. Pick bar: A bar due to difference in pick spacing. The causes of pick
bars are faulty gearing in take-up motion.
2. Starting mark: An isolated narrow marks along the pick. It is
occurred due to restart of weaving after- a) Unweaving or Pulling
back b) Prolonged loom stoppage.
3. Tension bar/Shiner: A bar due to difference in weft tension.
4. Weft bar: A bar due to difference in count, twist, luster, color or
shade of adjacent groups of weft yarns
47

48. Defects of woven fabrics
 Box mark: Box mark is a widthwise fine line showing stained or
injured weft due to the rubbing of shuttle when it rebounds. The
causes of box mark are-
1. Dirty box
2. Dirty shuttle
3. Weft flying too freely
4. Etc.
 Broken pattern: This defect may be due to wrong drawing of
threads, insertion of pick in wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp
threads.
 Broken pick: A pick missing from a portion of the width of the
fabric due to rough shuttle eyes, poor winding, weft yarn
breakage, improper pirn insertion etc.
48

49. Defects of woven fabrics
 Cut weft: It is occurred due to weak weft. It is like a pin hole.
 Defective selvedge: There may be various types of defective
selvedges as stated below:
1. Curled selvedge: It is occurred due to incorrect balance of cloth
structure between body and the selvedge.
2. Cut selvedge: This is the selvedge with cuts or tears due to
selvedge sticking to emery cloth.
3. Uneven selvedge: It is occurred due to variation in weft tension.
4. Etc.
 Fuzzy: This is the fibrous appearance of the cloth due to
presence of hairy or abraded yarn
49

50. Defects of woven fabrics
 Missing ends: The most common missing end is characterized by
a gap of one or more warp ends in the fabric.
 Reed marks: Due to this fault, cloth shows irregular spacing
between groups of warp yarns across the fabric width. It may be
caused by damaged or defective reed.
 Shuttle marks: Width wise marks due to abrasion of warp yarns
by the shuttle.
 Stains: Stains are major problem on woven fabric. Oil grease,
dust, soil, carbon particles in the air, sweat etc. are the causes of
stain. Most of the stains are caused by poor material handling and
carelessness of workers. Certain stains can be removed by
solvents.
50

51. -
Quality Control
in
Wet Processing
51

52. Properties of raw materials for dyeing
Raw materials Desired Properties
Grey Fabric 1. Free from stains
2. Free from foreign matters and
contamination
3. Free from manufacturing defects
Cloth for dyeing 1. Good absorbing capacity
2. Free from impurities
3. Even whiteness
4. Smooth surface
Dyestuff 1. Sufficient strength of required quality
2. Good fastness properties
3. Availability of data and shade card
52

53. Properties of raw materials for dyeing
Raw materials Desired Properties
Chemicals and
auxiliaries
1. Required purity
2. Required strength and concentration
3. Good efficiency
4. Compatibility
Water 1. Softness, free from iron and metal salts
2. Neutral pH
3. Required ppm of water ingredients
53

54. Qualities of dye house water
Standard Permissible
Concentration
Color Colorless
Smell Odourless
pH Value Neutral (pH=7)
Water hardness ‹ 5 degree dH
Dissolve solid ‹ 1 mg/L
Solid deposit ‹ 50 mg/L
54

55. Qualities of dye house water
Standard Permissible
Concentration
Organic Substance ‹ 20 mg/L
Organic Salts ‹ 500 mg/L
Iron ‹ 0.1 mg/L
Copper ‹ 0.005 mg/L
Nitrate ‹ 50 mg/L
Nitrite ‹ 5 mg/L
55

56. Estimation of Scouring Effect
1) Determination of weight loss%: The weight of unscoured
and scoured sample is taken at same MR% and from these
figures weight loss% can be calculated from the following
formula:
Weight loss={(Wt. of unscoured sample - Wt. of scoured sample)/ Wt. of unscoured sample}*100%
The standard weight loss is (4-8)%
If it is 8% then we may say that the sample is well scoured, but if
it is more than 8% then it is not acceptable as it indicates that
the fibre damage has been taken place. If it is less than 4%, it
shows that the sample is not well scoured and there are some
impurities still present in the sample.
56

57. Estimation of Scouring Effect
2) Absorbency test: 3 types-
a. Immersion test
b. Drop test/ Spot test
c. Wicking test
a. Immersion test: A sample is more absorbent when it is
scoured. 1 cm×1 cm sample is placed on a water surface
and time taken by it to be immersed is noted. The
standard time is 5 second. It is up to 10 second. If it is
greater than 10 second then it indicates that the scouring
has not taken place properly.
57

58. Estimation of Scouring Effect
b. Drop/Spot test: Colored solution of 0.1% direct dye (Red) is
used. The solution is dropped on to the sample by pippet and its
absorbency is examined visually. The drop may have the
following shapes:
Two things can be measured:
* The time taken in second to absorb one drop of solution is
measured. Standard time is (0.5-0.8) sec; upto 1 sec is
allowed. It may vary person to person’s perception.
* If the drop is circularly absorbed then we may say that the
sample is uniformly scoured. If the drop is circular but has small
area then the sample is uniformly scoured but not well scoured.
If it is almost circular then it is uniformly scoured too. If not
circular then it is not uniformly scoured.
58

59. Estimation of Scouring Effect
C. Wicking test: A sample of 5 cm x 18 cm is taken and a
mark is made at 1 cm from bottom. Then 1cm portion is
immersed into 1% direct dye solution for 5 minutes and
then the distance traveled by the colored solution above
1cm mark is noted. The acceptable range is (30-50) mm.
--------
Fig: Wicking test
Sample
(5cmmx18cm)
1% Direct
dye solution
59

60. Estimation of Bleaching Effect
 Measurement of reflectance by Leucometer:
The light reflectance capacity of a bleached fabric is higher than of
unbleached fabric. Standard bleached fabric has a reflectance of
(84-86)%. The reflectance can be sometimes increased to (90-
95)%. But it is very risky and such high bleaching can be done in
kier boiling and in a very high temperature of about (110-120) °C.
Such high percentage of reflectance may be accompanied by
strength loss.
60

61. Estimation of Mercerizing Effect
 Determination of Barium Activity Number (BAN):
This is the most effective test. Barium Activity Number is defined as the
ration of the amount of Ba(OH)2 absorbed by mercerized sample to the
amount of Ba(OH)2 absorbed by same amount of unmercerized sample
expressed as a percentage.
BAN=(Ba(OH)2 absorbed by mercerized sample/Ba(OH)2 absorbed by same amount of unmercerized sample ) x 100
If the mercerization happens the percentage will be greater than 100
(usually 115-135 is acceptable).
Below 115 indicates mercerization has not been taken place and it will
result uneven dyeing. 127 indicates very high rate of mercerization. If
the result is 100 then it indicates that no mercerization has happened.
61

62. Important Functions of QC Lab of a Modern Dye House
1. Judicious selection of raw materials.
2. Important in process quality control at all strategic points in
processing.
3. Accurate evaluation of the end product for conformation to laid
standards.
4. Planned research and development programmme.
5. Development of auxiliary product for in-house consumption.
Of the above, the first and third functions are routine quality
control job. The second function is related to process control at
every stage in day to day working to avoid damage or
reprocessing. The last two functions are concerned with ultimate
cost reduction and upgrading of quality of process material.
62

63. Causes of Shade Variation in Dyeing
 Variation in fabric preparation
 Difference in fibre strength
 Difference in quality of dyes, chemicals and water
 Variation in length of fabric in batch
 Wrong formulation of dyeing recipe
 Improper maintenance in dyeing operation
 Selection of wrong dyeing parameters
 Wrong measurement of materials
63

64. Fastness
 Definition: Fastness is the resistance of
textile materials to resist a load or
destructive factor such as abrasion, heat,
light, perspiration, wearing, acidic and
alkaline conditions.
 Categories of fastness:
 Producer’s fastness
 User’s fastness
64

65. Fastness
 Color Fastness Test:
 Light fastness
 Washing fastness
 Rubbing fastness
 Perspiration fastness
 Hot-pressing fastness
 Water fastness (Chlorinated, Sea, Saline
water)
 Color fastness to bleaches and chemicals.
65

66. Factors affecting colorfastness
 the molecular structure of the dye
 the manner in which the dye is bound to the fibre, or the
physical form present
 the amount of dye present in the fibre
 the chemical nature of the fibre
 the presence of other chemicals in the material
 the actual conditions prevailing during exposure.
66

67. Fastness
 Strength Test:
 Breaking Strength
 Tearing Strength
 Bursting Strength
 Seam Strength
 Performance Test:
 Pilling Resistance
 Abrasion Resistance
 Water Repellency
 Flammability
 Air permeability
 Etc.
67

68. Fastness
 Objects of Fastness in Testing:
 Research
 Selection of raw materials for manufacturing
 Process control
 Process development
 Products development as per standards
 Specification testing
 Etc.
68

69. Fastness
 Scales for Assessment:
Numerical Rating Meaning
1 Poor
2 Moderate
3 Average
4 Good
5 Excellent
1. Grey Scale:
a. Grey Scale for Color Change
b. Grey Scale for Color Staining
69

70. Fastness
Grey Scale for Staining
70

71. Fastness
Grey Scale for Color Change
71

72. Fastness
 Color Matching Cabinet/Light box:
72

73. Fastness
2.Blue Scale
Numerical Rating Meaning
1 Little
2 Poor
3 Moderate
4 Average
5 Good
6 Very Good
7 Excellent
8 Maximum
73

74. Fastness
 Washing fastness:
Color fastness to wash is very important for dyed materials.
There are varieties of testing procedure, because:
 Washing condition may vary from one country to
another
 The methods depends on the use of dyed goods
 To evaluate, repeated washing accelerated test methods
are used.
74

75. Fastness
The degree of fading and staining of dyed materials
for washing depends upon the following factors:
 Temperature range may be from 40°C to 95 °C
 The type and amount of detergent added to the washing bath. In
many testing procedure a standard detergent is used.
 The extent of mechanical action which can be varied by changing
the agitation speed in a washing machine or by adding steel ball to
revolving bath.
 The washing liquor to goods ratio.
 The hardness of water
 The rinsing, drying or pressing methods used to restore the sample
after the washing test.
75

76. Fastness
 Principle of washing fastness:
A specimen/dyed material in contact with specified
adjacent fabric (MFF) is laundered, rinsed and
dried. The composite sample is treated under
appropriate condition in a chemical bath for
recommended time. The abrasive action is
accomplished by the use of liquor ratio and an
appropriate number of steel balls. The change in
color of the dyed sample and the staining of the
adjacent fabric (MFF) is assessed by recommended
grey scale.
76

77. Fastness
 Apparatus and materials:
 Wash-wheel with a thermostatically controlled
water bath and rating speed of (40± 2) rpm.
 Stainless steel container.
 Stainless steel ball (dia=0.6 cm, weight=1gm)
 Multifibre fabric (Acetate, Cotton, Nylon,
Polyester, Acrylic, Wool)
 Thermometer
 Dryer
 Color matching cabinet
 ISO scales
77

78. Fastness
Test Specimen: Cut a sample of dyed goods (10 cm x 4
cm) and sew it with same size multifibre fabric. This the
composite test specimen.
Specimen
Acetate Nylon Acrylic
Cotton WoolPolyester
Multifibre Adjacent
Fabric
78

79. Fastness
 Test Procedure: Any one procedure recommended by ISO.
Test Temperature
(°C)
Time
(MIN)
Steel Ball Chemicals
Iso-105-CO1 40 30 0 Soap(5 g/l)
Iso-105-CO2 50 45 0 Soap(5 g/l)
Iso-105-CO3 60 30 0 Soap(5 g/l)+
Soda(2 g/l)
Iso-105-CO4 95 30 10 Soap(5 g/l)+
Soda(2 g/l)
Iso-105-CO5 95 240 10 Soap(5 g/l)+
Soda(2 g/l)
79

80. Fastness
 Evaluation: Compare the contrast between the treated and
untreated sample with grey scales for changing color of dyed
sample and staining of adjacent fabric in a color matching cabinet.
 Reporting format:
Test Description Result
Color fastness to wash Grade
Color change in dyed sample 4
Color change in shade staining in acetate
Color change in shade staining in cotton
Color change in shade staining in Nylon
Color change in shade staining in Polyester
Color change in shade staining in acrylic
Color change in shade staining in wool
4
4
4-5
4-5
4
4
80

81. Standards
 Something that is established by authority, custom or
general consent as a model or example to be followed.
 Something established for use as a rule or basis of
comparison in measuring or judging capacity, quantity,
content, extent, value, quality etc.
 The type, model or example commonly or generally
accepted adhered to; criterion set for usage or practice.
 According to ISO, standards are documented agreements
containing technical specifications or other precise criteria
to be used consistently as rules, guidelines or definitions of
characteristics to ensure that materials, products,
processes and services are fit for their purpose.
81

82. Standards
 Benefits of Standards:
 Standards facilitate communication and prevent
misunderstanding
 Standards make parts interchangeability possible and as
a result mass production is possible
 Standards can be used in marketing strategy to promote
purchase of products that meet nationally recognized
requirements, especially, when conformance is backed
by a certain program.
 Standards reduce cost and save money.
82

83. Standards
 Sources of Standards:
Standard Full Name
ASTM American Association for testing and
materials
AATCC American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists
ANSI American National Standards Institute
BSI British Standards Institution
ISO International Organizational for
Standardization
BSTI Bangladesh Standards and Testing
Institute
83

84. Standards
 Sources of Standards:
Standard Full Name
CGSB Canadian General Standards Board
AS Standards Australia
DIN Deutsches Institute Fur Normung
JIS Japanese Standards Association
NF Association Trancaise de Normalization
US CPSC The US Consumer Product Safety Commission
ANSI American National Standards Institute
84

85. Standards
ISO
 Worldwide federation of national standards bodies from nearly 140
countries.
 Established in 1947 to promote development of standardization of
related activities in the world.
 Mission is to facilitate the international exchange of goods and
services and to develop cooperation in the sphere of
intellectual, scientific, technological and economic activity
 ISO publishes various international agreements as international
standards.
 ISO sets standards for many diversified field like information, textile,
packaging, distribution of goods, energy production and utilization.
85

86. Standards
ISO 900 Series Standards
The ISO 900 series is a set of five individual, but related,
international standards on quality management and quality
assurance. They are generic, not specific to any particular
products. They can be used by manufacturing and service
industries. They are:
ISO 900: It is the first standard in the series and is
entitled “Quality Management and Quality Assurance
Standards-Guidelines for Selection and Use”.
86

87. Standards
ISO 9001: Quality system model for quality assurance in
design, development, production, Installation and servicing.
ISO 9002: Quality system model for quality assurance in
production, Installation and servicing.
ISO 9003: Quality system model for quality assurance in
final inspection and testing.
ISO 9004: Guidelines for quality management and quality
system elements.
87

88. Standards
International Environmental Standards-ISO14000
The ISO 14000 series, currently being developed by the
International Organizational for Standardization (ISO), is a
collection of voluntary standards that assists organizations
to achieve to achieve environmental and financial gains
through the implementation of effective environmental
management. The standards provide both a model for
streamlining environmental management and guidelines to
ensure environmental issues are considered within decision
making practices
88

89. Standards
Environmental Management System (EMS)
An environmental Management System is a tool for
managing the impacts of an Organization’s activities on the
environment. It provides a structured approach to planning
and implementing environment protection measures.
An EMS can be a powerful tool for organizations to improve
their environmental performance and enhance their
business efficiency. An EMS is not prescriptive; rather it
requires organizations to take an active role in examining
their practices, and then determining how their impacts
should be managed. This approach encourages creative and
relevant solutions from organization itself.
89

90. Standards
Benefits of an EMS
An EMS can assist a company in the following ways:
 Minimize environmental liabilities
 Maximize the efficient use of resources
 Reduce waste
 Demonstrate a good corporate image
 Build awareness of environmental concern among employees
 Gain a better understanding of the environmental impacts of
business activities
 Increase profit, improving environmental performance
through more efficient operations.
90

91. Standards
Steps towards ISO certification
Step-1. Management commitment
Step-2. Quality system requirement and quality policy manual
Step-3. Planning
Step-4. Training, Education and quality awareness.
Step-5. Implementation
Step-6. Auditing and Corrective action
Step-7. Certification.
91

92. Quality Assurance and Statistical Quality Control
Quality Assurance (QA): The decisions, plans and actions
that are necessary to provide adequate confidence that a
product or service will satisfy given requirements for a
particular quality.
The purpose of quality assurance is to ensure certain quality.
Statistical quality control (SQC): Control of quality with
the help of statistics is statistical quality control or SQC can
be defined as the method of QC where a series of results are
analyzed with the help of statistical tools and techniques and
decision is made about controlling the process.
The purpose of SQC is to generate authenticity and
significance about a series of test result.
92

93. Total Quality Management (TQM)
In the past quality used to be regarded as a textile process. With
the introduction of the WTO’s free trade agreement quality and
cost has become the most important parameters for choosing a
product. Therefore, the protocol of existing quality control
philosophy will assume a new horizon. Various national and
international organizations have already designed various models
for future quality control system.
TQM is one of the most widely accepted quality control system.
According to the TQM concept an organization involves all the
resources like raw materials, suppliers, almost all persons working
in the company, the whole seller, retailer and consumers to
undertake decisions to achieve a target quality.
93

94. Acceptance Sampling Plan
Acceptance sampling plan is an important field of statistical
quality control. Dodge reasoned that a sample should be picked
up at random from the lot and on the basis of information that
was yielded by the sample; a decision should be made regarding
this character of the lot. This process is called Lot Acceptance
Sampling or just Acceptance Sampling.
Advantages:
1. It is economical
2. It requires less time and less effort
3. It requires fewer personnel.
Disadvantages:
1. There is always high risk for the producer and the consumers
2. Requires expertise
94

95. Rectifying Inspection Plan
The inspection of the rejected lot and replacing the defective
pieces found in rejected lot by the good ones to improve the lot
quality is called rectifying inspection plan. This plan was first
introduced by Harold F. Dodge and Harry G. Roming of Bell
Telephone Laboratories before world war II. This plan enables
the manufacturer to have an idea about the average quality of
the product that is likely to result at given stage of manufacturer
through the combination of production, sampling inspection and
rectification of rejected lot.
Dodge and Roming have developed a number of sampling plans
and the most common two of these are-
1. Single Sampling Plan
2. Double Sampling Plan
95

96. Dodge and Roming’s Sampling Plan
 Single Sampling Plan: If the decision about accepting or
rejecting a lot is taken on the basis of one sample only, the
acceptance plan is described as single sampling plan.
Let N be the lot size; n be the sample size; c be the acceptance
number i.e. maximum allowable number of defectives in the
sample. The single sampling plan may be described as follows:
 Select a random sample of size n from a lot size N
 Inspect all the articles included in the sample. Let d be the number of
defectives in the sample.
 If d ≤ c, accept the lot; replacing the defective pieces found in the
sample by non-defective (standard) ones.
 If d > c, reject the lot. Inspect the entire lot and replace all the
defective pieces by standard ones.
96

97. Dodge and Roming’s Sampling Plan
 Double Sampling Plan: In this method second sample is
permitted if first sample fails, i.e. if the data from the first
sample is non conclusive on either side ( about accepting or
rejecting the lot) then a definite decision is taken on the
basis of the second sample.
Let, N=lot size, n1=First sample size, n2=Second sample size,
C1=Acceptance number for first sample, C2=Acceptance
number for both the samples combined, d1=No. of
defective items in the first sample, d2=No. of defective
items in the second sample.
Procedure:
 Take a sample of size n1 from lot size N
 If d1 ≤ c1, accept the lot; replacing the defective pieces found in the
sample by non-defective (standard) ones.
97

98. Dodge and Roming’s Sampling Plan
 If d1 > c1, reject the lot. Inspect the entire lot and replace all the
defective pieces by standard ones.
 If c1+1< d1 ≤ c2, take a second sample of size n2 from the remaining
lot.
 If d1+d2 ≤ C2, accept the lot; replacing the defective pieces found in
the sample by non-defective (standard) ones.
 If d1+d2 > c2, reject the whole lot. Inspect the rejected lot 100% and
replace all defective items by standard ones.
98

99. Quality Control
in
Apparel Manufacturing
99

100. Fabric Inspection
Before the production of garments the quality of
fabric should be inspected. When fabric received
in store, at least it is needed to inspect 10%
fabric. This inspection is done by point systems.
Some point system for fabric inspection are:
 4-point system
 6.5-point system
 10-point system
 Dallas point system
100

101. Fabric Inspection
4-point system
The 4-point system, also called the American Apparel
Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point-grading system for
determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of
apparel fabrics and by the department of defense in United
States and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as ASQC
(American Society for Quality Control).
The system in which the penalty point of a defect is
maximum 4 is called 4-point system of quality control.
101

102. Fabric Inspection
 Basic Principle: Defect point values should be counted in
100 yd fabric. If defect point values are 40 or less then it
indicates first quality fabric. The grading range is given
below:
Point Grade
≤ 40 A
Above 40-60 B
Above 60-80 C
Above 80 Rejected
102

103. Fabric Inspection
 Procedure:
 Should select 10% fabric randomly from the fabric received
quantity.
 The defects are located, marked and recorded on a frame.
 Fabric defect point values are taken based on the following:
Length of Defect Point Allocated
Up to 3 inch 1
Over 3 inch-Up to 6 inch 2
Over 6 inch-Up to 9 inch 3
Over 9 inch 4
≤1 inch (Holes) 2
Over 1 inch 4
103

104. Fabric Inspection
 Calculation:
Point/ 100 yd = {(Total point scored in a roll x 3600)/ (Total yds inspected x Fabric width in inch)}
Exercise-1. A fabric roll of 1200 ydS long and 48 inch wide contains the
following defects:
 2 defects up to 3 inch
 5 defects over 3 inch but up to 6 inch
 1 defect over 6 inch but up to 9 inch
 1 defect over 9 inch
Find out the grade of fabric based on 4-point system.
104

105. AQL
105