AMT-511: Apparel Manufacturing Technology

SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF
CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY
AMT-511
Submitted to:
Farhana Akhtar
Assistant Professor
Department of FDT, SMUCT.
Submitted by:
Shahrina Yeasmin
ID: 171111001
Batch: 13th
Semester: 1st
Date of Submission: 10.11.2017

Acknowledgement
At first, we desire to express our deepest sense of gratitude to almighty Allah. I am very glad
and thankful to my teachers to be learned AMT and completed my module AMT-511. We
believe this subject will be very much helpful to build up our career.
AMT, I think is a very important subject. Here we can learn all the important things and
technologies of Apparel Manufacturing Management. To be a good fashion designer or
manager or merchandisers of apparel industry or buying house it so much important to have
good knowledge in AMT. Here we learn the methods of sewing garments which is related
with garments industry. I am very grateful to my honorable teacher FarhanaAkhtar who
supported me so much.
I believe this fundamental knowledge of AMT will be so much helpful to build up my future
career. Thanks to everyone who supported me throughout the way to complete this module.
.......................................
Signature

History of Sewing Machine
The first sewing machine was patented in 1790 by the British inventor Thomas Saint. Saint's
machine, which was designed to sew leather and canvas, used only a single thread and
formed a chain stitch. No needle was used; instead an awl was used to pierce a hole through
the material being sewed. Another mechanism placed the thread over the hole, and then a
needlelike rod with a forked point carried the thread through to the underside of the work,
where a hook caught the thread and moved it forward for the next stitch. When the cycle was
repeated, a second loop was formed on the underside of the cloth with the first loop, thus
forming a chain and locking the stitch. Saint's machine, however, never progressed beyond
the patent model stage.
A French tailor, BarthélemyThimonnier, built the first practical sewing machine in 1829. It
employed a hook-tipped needle that was moved downward by a foot treadle and returned by a
spring. Like Saint's machine, it produced a chain stitch. When Thimonnier installed 80 of his
machines in a clothing factory the tailors of Paris wrecked them, and eventually he died
bankrupt in England.
The American inventor Walter Hunt devised the first lockstitch machine about 1834. The
machine, which employed both an eye-pointed needle and an oscillating shuttle, was not
patented at the time of its invention—so when Hunt later attempted to obtain a patent, his
claim was disallowed on grounds of abandonment. Working independently, the American
inventor Elias Howe devised a machine that contained the same essential features as Hunt's
and patented it in 1846. Subsequently another American inventor, Isaac Merrit Singer,
patented a similar machine and was successfully sued by Howe for infringement of Howe's
patent. Singer, however, was instrumental in the pooling of various patents in the sewing-
machine field and in laying the groundwork for the mass production of the machines.
Other important inventions in the field included the rotary bobbin that was incorporated in
1850 into a machine patented by the American inventor Allen Benjamin Wilson, and the
intermittent four-motion feed for advancing the material between stitches, which was part of
the same patent. Singer devised the presser foot, a spring-tension device for holding the
material firmly against the worktable, after the patenting of his first machine.
The earliest successful sewing machines were powered by the turning of a hand crank. Later
a foot-treadle and crank arrangement was incorporated, enabling the operator to use both
hands in guiding the material under the needle. All modern sewing machines are now
equipped with electric motors activated by means of foot-operated or knee-operated
controllers

Garments Factory & No. of Workers

Parts of SewingMachine
Sewing Machine parts and their
function

The Principal Parts of Sewing Machine
A lock stitch sewing machine can be divided into four main parts.
 The sewing head
 The horizontal arm
 The vertical arm
 The machine bed
The Sewing Head
The sewing head is the main sewing part of the machine. It contains various sewing
elements such as the needle bar, pressure bar, the take up lever.
The Horizontal Arm
The horizontal arm connects the sewing head and the vertical arm of a. It contains the arm
shaft, which sends movements from the balance wheel to the various moving parts in the
sewing head.
The Vertical Arm
The vertical arm contains the shaft and belts or connecting rods, which send movements
from the horizontal arm shaft to the various sewing mechanisms in the machine bed.
The Machine Bed
The machine bed is the part of the machine situated beneath the sewing head, the horizontal
arm and the vertical arm, the main function of the machine bed is to support the materials to
be sewn and to provide the mounting points for those moving parts.
The Sewing head
Needle:This is the main sewing element for carrying the thread though the material
during the sewing operation. It penetrates the fabrics without disturbing its yarns to help the
stitch.
Needle bar: This provides a mounting point for the needle as well as giving vertical motion
to the needle in the sewingoperation. It also holds the needle with a help of a screw.
Presser Foot:This holds down the fabric during the time of stitching and work together with
the feed dog and needle plate to help in the feeding of the material and stitch formation.
Presser bar:This is a vertical bar; the lower end is attached to the presser foot. It can be
lifted up or lowered downby activating the knee lifter or the presser foot lifter.
Presser bar spring:This provides the pressure needed for the presser foot through the
presser bar.

Presser bar regulating screw: This regulates the pressure of the presser foot.
Take up lever: This controls the supply of the needle thread to the needle, the lever
moving up and down.
Needle thread tension Device: This controls the tension of the needle thread during
sewing.
Check spring: Also known as the take up spring, this is a part of the needle thread
tension device it also assists the take up lever in setting the stitch.
Presser foot lifter: This lever situates at the back of the sewing machine, helps to life
and lower down the presser foot.
The Horizontal Arm
Spool Pin: This acts as a guide to the needle thread on its way to the sewing head.
The vertical arm
Balance wheel or handle wheel: This wheel, which is driven by a belt which is
connected to the motor, counter balances and stabilizes the arm shaft.
Stitch regulator: It helps to regulate and adjust the stitch length.
Back tack lever: This lever controls the direction of the feeding movement.
The machine bed
Slide plate: Sliding the plate open it is visible the machine parts under the machine
bed.
Needle plate: Also known as the throat plate, this plate supports the material being
sewn and provides opening for the needle and the teeth of the feed dog.
Feed Dog: Located under the needle plate it is mainly to move and feed the material
or fabric during sewing.
Bobbin Winder: Fro winding the bobbing thread to the bobbin.
The function of the sewing machine needles is to penetrate and make a hole in the
material being sewn. It does not piercing the material enabling the material to pass
through the hole.

Threading Instructions
o Raise the presser foot and bring the needle to its highest position by turning the hand
wheel toward you. Put a spool of thread on the spool pin on the back of the sewing
machine.
o Pass the thread through the back guide, which is the hook-like guide on the top of the
machine, and then pass it through the front thread guide, the similar looking guide on the
front of the sewing machine.
o Pull the thread downward to the tension discs located behind the tension dial. Pull it from
right to left between the tension discs so that the thread ends up on the left side of the
discs.
o Pull the thread up and hook it over the notch on the top of tension dial. Pull the thread
down to the spring also on the tension dial and slip it under the spring.
o Draw the thread up through the large paper-clip-like guide to the take-up lever. Thread
the take up lever from right to left.
o Pull the thread down through the u-shaped thread guide located below the tension dial
and through the guide on the needle bar.
o Thread the needle from left to right. Pull 3 inches of thread through the needle.

Seam
In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are
held together with stitches. Prior to the invention of the sewing machine, all sewing was done by
hand. Seams in modern mass-produced household textiles, sporting goods, and ready-to-wear
clothing are sewn by computerized machines, while home shoemaking, dressmaking, quilting,
crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand and machine sewing.
Different Types of Seam-
Six seams class was included in the 1965 British standard at that stage they were given names
which usefully describe their construction.
The choice of seam type is determined by aesthetic standards, strength, durability, comfort in
wear convenience in assembly in relation to the machinery available, and cost.
 Class 1 (Superimposed seam)
 Class 2 (Lapped seam)
 Class 3 (Bound seam)
 Class 4 (Flat seam)
 Class 5 (Decorative stitching)
 Class 6 (Edge neatening)
 Class 1 (Superimposed seam) :
This is the commonest construction seamen garments. The simplest seam type with in the
class is formed by super imposing the edge of one piece of material on another. A verity
of stitch type can be used on this type of seam both for joining the fabrics and for
neatening the edges of for achieving both simultaneously.
 Class 2 (Lapped seam) :
The simplest type in this class formed by lapping two pieces of material. In practice this
simple seam is not common in clothing because it causes problems with raw edge or cab
be used with the fabrics which finely woven and fray very little much more common on
long seams on jeans is the so call lap-felled seam, sewn with two rows of stitches. This
provide very strong seam in garments. The type of raised top stitched seams often down
skirt panels is also technically a lapped seam although at the beginning of its construction
appears to be a super impose seam.
 Class 3 (Bound seam) :
In this class, the seam consists of edge of the material which is bounded by another. The
simplest version of this class is again unusual as it cannot be constructed with self fabric
binding due to fraying. The simplest bound seam using ribbon while (ii) shows a

common version where self or contrast fabric cut in to narrow (bias) strips turns the edges
under and the strip over the edge of main fabric (i) shows a common finished used on the
neck edge of tee shirt and on vest and briefs. In (ii) it h an insert cut strip. In (iii) elastic
has been included in a sufficiently stretch state to draw the edge of the garment in to a
snug (IV) a waist band.
 Class 4 (Flat seam) :
In this class, seams are referred to as flat seams because the fabric edge does not overlap.
They may be butted without a gap and joined across by a stitch which has two needle
sewing into each fabric and covering thread passing forth between these stitches on both
of fabric. This seam is that it provides a joint is free from bulk in garments worn close to
the skin such as knitted underwear. The machine trims both fabric edges so that they form
a neat join. Alternatively various zigzag stitches could be sew hack and forth between the
fabrics.
 Class 5 (Decorative stitching) :
The main use of the seam is for decorative sewing on garments twin needle stitching with
ribbon laid under the stitches while (ii) shows four rows of stitches. (iii) and (iv) are pin
tucks in multiples, and seams.
 Class 6 (Edge neatening) :
This class includes those where fabric edges are neatened by means of stitching e.g.’
three thread over lock stitch. (1) is typical of the hem on a dress which has been neatened
and then sewn up. (ii)Hem of a shirt or skirt, (iii) and (IV) show a front placket of a shirt.

Materials
The Chart of Sewing Materials
Fabrics Sewing Machine Spools& Threads
Scissors
Needle & Needle Screw
Measuring Tape
Bobbin & Bobbin Case
Pins Thread Cutter
Electric Iron Tailor's Chalk Stitch Opener
Ruler Pen, Pencil, Eraser Fusing

Work List
Sl. No. Name of the Topic
01 Superimposed Seam
02 French Seam
03 Lapped Seam
04 Welt Seam
05 Top Stitch
06 Lapped Seam
07 Lap-Felled Seam
08 Piped Seam
09 Slot Seam
10 Bound Seam
11 Piping
12 U-ShapeNecklineFacing
13 V-ShapeNecklineFacing
14 Necklineusing Piping
15 Gather
16 Box Pleat
17 Double Inverted Pleat
18 Pin Tucks
19 Dart
20 Inverted Pleat
21 KnifePleat
22 ContinuousStrip Opening
23 SleevePlacket
24 U-ShapePatch Pocket
25 RectangularPatchPocket
26 Slanted Pocket
28 Coin Pocket
29 Welted Pocket
30 Lap Zip Fastener
31 Concealed Zip Fastener
32 Fly
33 EdgeFinishing (Turn and Stitch)
34 EdgeFinishing(Overlock)
35 EdgeFinishing(Zigzag)

Superimposed seam
This is the commonest construction seamen garments. The simplest seam type with in the class is
formed by super imposing the edge of one piece of material on another. A verity of stitch type
can be used on this type of seam both for joining the fabrics and for neatening the edges of for
achieving both simultaneously.
This is a seam performed by placing one fabric over the other and sewing along the edges.
Diagram of superimposed seam:
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated figure of supper imposed seam
 Took two pieces of fabric both are same in size.
 Laving 1cm from end & stitch along straight to them.
Uses:-
 Collar/Cuff sewing.
 Collar band attach sewing & topstitching.
 Side seam and sleeve attach with safety-stitches.

French Seam
French seams are perfect for lightweight and sheer fabrics, and are among the most popular of
seam finishing techniques, as all the raw edges of the fabric are hidden in an elegant finished
seam. It is also a great finish for seams that will be exposed, like an unlined jacket. French seams
get a bad rap for being hard, but honestly they are incredibly easy.
The biggest hurdle is getting over the idea of sewing wrong sides together instead of right sides
together at the beginning. It feels all backwards.
Diagram of French seam:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of French seam
 Take two pieces of fabrics, 0.5cm seam allowance then stitch the fabric a straight line.
 Fold the fabric and 1cm seam allowance the stitch the fabric a straight line
Uses:-
 Collar top stitching
 Cuff top stitching.
 Shirt yoke top stitching.

TopStitch
Topstitching is used most often on garment edges such as necklines and hems, where it helps
facings to stay in place and gives a crisp edge. It can also be used to attach details like pockets or
tabs on zippers, especially on bags.
Diagram of French seam:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Top Stitch
 Take two pieces of fabrics, 0.5cm seam allowance then stitch the fabric a straight line.
 Fold the edges one side and stitch another straight line on it.
Uses:-
Topstitching is a sewing technique where the line of stitching is designed to be seen from the
outside of the garment, either decorative or functional. Topstitching is used most often on
garment edges such as necklines and hems, where it helps facings to stay in place and gives a
crisp edge.

Lapped seam
Lapped seam is a seamin which the edges overlap; especially a seam in leather or cloth made by
extending a cut or folded edge over a cut edge to the width of the seam allowance and stitching
in place.
Diagram of lapped seam:-
Working Process:-
A B
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Lapped seam
 Take 2 pieces fabrics.
 Take the fabrics (A) keep the fabric (A) on the top of (B) then 1cm seam allowance and
stitch a striate line.
Uses:-
Commonly used is in the joining of panel in sails where a strong seam is achieved by using two
of three rows.
 Attaching elastic lace
 Flat knit elastics to waist.

Lap Felled seam
Felled seam, or flat-fell seam, is a seam made by placing one edge inside a folded edge of fabric, then
stitching the fold down. It includes a topstitched finish. It is useful for keeping seam allowances flat and
covering raw edges. There are flat-felled seams and lap-felled seams.
Diagram of Lap felled seam:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Lap felled seam
 Keep two pieces of fabric.
 Jointed two pieces of fabric by superimposed than stitch.
Uses:-
 Shirt
 Pants.
 Bed sheets

Piped seam
In sewing, piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric so as to
form a "pipe" inserted into a seam to define the edges or style lines of a garment or other textile
object. Usually the fabric strip is cut on the bias.
Diagram of Piped seam:-
Working Process:-
A B C A+B+C
Illustrated Figure of Piped seam
1. Keep 3 pieces of fabrics. Then small piece (c) has to fold.
2. Folding fabric has to keep on (a) and (b) side of these fabrics.
3. Now we have to straight sewing.
Uses:-
 As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets orfaced neck lines
 Hemming purposes
 Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines of dresses.
 To outline openings and hems.

Slot Seam
Topstitching is used most often on garment edges such as necklines and hems, where it helps
facings to stay in place and gives a crisp edge. It can also be used to attach details like pockets or
tabs on zippers, especially on bags.
Diagram of SlotSeam:-
Working Process:-
AB C A+B+C Illustrated Figure of
Top Stitch
 Cut a stripof fabric(thatyou wantto show–socoordinatingorcontrasting) the same widthas
the two seamedges.
 Lay the strip inplace. Pinif youwant to. I hardlyeverwantto. But I probablywouldwiththisif I
was sewingalongeritem.
 Turn everythingoverwiththe correctside of the fabricup,makingsure that fabricstripstaysin
place
 Now, stitch 1/4 inch away from the seaming with a straight stitch down one side
 Thenback downthe other
Uses:-
A slot seam is a decorative seaming technique that is used on pockets, blouses, dresses, jackets
and coats.

Welt seam
A welt seam resembles a flat-felled seam but is less bulky. Rather than folding over and pressing
the “top” seam allowance, it is simply finished with a serger, zigzag stitch or pinking shears and
then stitched down. It provides a nice look on the inside of garments, especially on fabric like
this that shreds madly.
Diagram of Welted seam:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Welted seam
 Keep two pieces of fabrics.
 Join two pieces of fabric by over lapping stitch &
than superimposed & stitch.
Uses:-
 In side leg seam.
 Woven garments.
 Leather products.

Bound seam
A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent
raveling, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding. On mass-
produced clothing, the seam allowances of plain seams are usually trimmed and stitched together
with an overlock stitch using a serger.
Diagram of Bound seam:-
Working process:-
A B C A+B+C
Illustrated Figure of Bound seam
 Cut two pieces of fabric according to A & B and cut another piece of (c) ribbon as 2*6.
 Then fold the ribbon and take the other two piece of fabric for stitching.
 At left hand keep the ribbon folder and put the fabrics inside of that then stitching by 1
cm gape.
Uses:
 As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.
 Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines o dresses.

Piping
Piping is a versatile trim with another contrast fabric at left called piping.
Diagram of Piping:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Piping
These following steps are taken to make Piping –
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B
 Cut a piece fabric direction of diagonal.
 Join the small part and fold with super imposed seam.
Uses:-
 As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.
 Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines of dresses.

U-shaped neckline finishes using facing
The neckline is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck, especially from the front
view.The neck opening of the shirt is formed in the shape of the letter “U".
Diagram of U-shaped neckline finishes using facing:-
Working Process: -
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of U shaped necklinefinishes using facing
First work: Keep the pocket 1cm fold on the top of the pocket and stitch a line.
Second: Keep 1cm around the pocket, with 1cm give the pocket U-shape. Fold the extra cloth
from the side.
Third work: Then press the pocket smooth.
Forth work: Keep the pocket on the bass in middle point.
Fifth work: Stitch the pocket in border line.
Uses:-
Collar, Children dress.
Kames, T-shirt.

V-shaped necklinefinishes usingfacing
‘V’ shaped neckline is a neck on a garment that comes down to a point on the throat or chest,
resembling the shape of the letter "V".
Diagram of V-shaped neckline finishes using facing:-
Working Process:-
A B C
Illustrated Figure of V-shaped neckline finishes using facing
 Cut two pieces of fabric according to A & B and B also a fusing according to C by the iron
pattern
 Slash the fusing at B and set up at fabric A’ top side by the stitch of 1 inch
Uses:-
 Collar, Children dress.
 Kames, T-shirt.

Neckline with Piping
Adding piping to the neckline of a cotton dress will make the garment last a lot longer. The seam
of the neckline is less likely to fade or wear thin.
Diagram of Neckline with Piping:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of Neckline with Piping
Uses:
Different types of neckline for Men, Women and children.

Box pleat
Box pleat is a flat double pleat made by folding under the fabric on either side of it.
Diagram of Box pleat seam:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Box pleat
First work: Keep 2 pieces fabric, (a) pieces is 7x6’’ and another piece (b) is 2.5cm.
Second work: First time we have to fold the piece (a), them1.4cm seam allowance and 1.5cm
stitch.
Third work: Make a box plate used by Iron, and then stitch the fabric the fabric a straight line on
top side.
Forth work: Fold another part and join the part with the first part used by stitch.
Fifth work: Again fold another part (b) and top stitch.
Uses:-
 To make fashionable flair skirts.
 Easy wearable dresses
 Pocket, Shirt back.

Inverted Pleat
Inverted pleat is a boxpleatreversed so that thefullness is turnedinward.
Diagram of Inverted Pleat:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Inverted Pleat
First work: Keep 2 pieces fabric,
stitch.
top side.
Uses:-
 To make fashionable flair
skirts.
 Easy wearable dresses.
 Curtains.

Double Inverted Pleat
Inverted pleat is a box pleat reversed so that the fullness is turned inward. When a lot of short
inverted pleat used to give breadth is called double inverted pleat.
Diagram of Double Inverted Pleat:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Double Inverted Pleat
First work: Keep 2 pieces fabric,
stitch.
top side.
Sixth work: Gave top stitch upper part of each pleat.
Uses:-
 To make fashionable flair skirts.
 Easy wearable dresses.
 Curtains.

Knife Pleat
Knife Pleat is a type of sharply pressed pleating, especially in a skirt or kilt, in which all of the
folds are turned in one direction, with each pleat being three layers of fabric thick.
Diagram of Knife Pleat:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of Knife Pleat
 First work: keep two pieces of fabrics.
 Second work: Pleat is grouped and face in one direction.
 Third work: Then we have to ironing.
 Forth work: Fold another part and join the part with the first part used by stitch
Uses:-
 Skirts &female dresses.
 Home decorative

Gather
A pleat (older plait) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it
in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a
narrower circumference.
Diagram of Gather:-
Working Process:-
A B Gather
Illustrated Figure of Gather
First work: Keep two pieces fabric 1part is 7x5inch and another part is 4x1inch.
Second work: Keep the first part fabric, and then make a normal stitch.
Third work: Now tension the thread and make a gather used by hand.
Forth work: Fold another part of fabric and join by stitch.
Fifth work: Remove the false stitch.
Uses:-
 Male: Pajamas,Pants,dhuteeetc
 Female: Skirts, lehengas, other dresses.
 Window cover at home decorative.

Pin tucks
In sewing, a tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place. Small tucks, especially multiple
parallel tucks, may be used to decorate clothing or household linens. When the tucks are very
narrow, they are called pin tucks or Pin-tucking.
Diagram of Pin tucks:-
Working Process:-
A Pin Tuck
Illustrated Figure of Pin tucks
These following steps are taken to make pin tuck
 Fold the fabric according to leaving 1 inch distance after one another
 Sewing with super imposed seam on the folding base.
Uses:-
 Sportswear.
 Women’s wear

Dart
Darts are folds (tucks coming to a point) and sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape
to a garment, especially for a woman's bust. They are used frequently in all sorts of clothing to
tailor the garment to the wearer's shape, or to make an innovative shape in the garment.
Diagram of Dart:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of Dart
First work: Take the measurement of dart.
Second work: Fold the dart.
Third work: Now join two points of dart.
Forth work: After joining its make a triangular shape.
Fifth work: At the opposite side it takes a shape.
Uses:
 In any kinds of ladies dress.
 Mainly use in skirts, tops, pants.

Continuous Strip Opening
A narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias or cross-grain which has great stretch and has a greater
drape. It is usually used as opening in necklines, sleeve cuffs, waistbands of pants and skirts.
Diagram of continuous strip opening:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of continuous strip opening
 Cut 2 pieces fabric A&B.
 Cut the middle line of A fabric.
 Than the pipe fabric B is attach the A fabric
Uses:-
 Kids wear
 Ladies wear

Sleeve Placket
Sleeveswhich close at the wrist with a snugly-fitting cuff require an opening to insert the hand.
Theseplacketscan be made on a seam or a slash.
Diagram of Sleeve Placket:-
Working Process:-
A B C A+B+C
Illustrated Figure of Sleeve Placket
Three Pieces of fabric are cut by the markers; the fabrics are shown in the illustration
as ABC.
First, fabric A is cut through the middle white line.
Then fabric C is joined with fabric A & joined fabric B with Fabric A like the sample.
After the following steps we will get Sleeve placket
Uses:-
 Mainly in shirt sleeves

U-shaped patch pocket
U shapedPatch pocketis a pocket with top stitching and bar tacking on the back of blue jeans,
front of Shirt, frocks etc. It is a pocket like bag or envelope like receptacle.
Diagram of U-shaped patch pocket:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of U-shaped patch pocket
First work: Keep the pocket 1cm fold on the top of the pocket and stitch a line.
Second: Keep 1cm around the pocket, with 1cm give the pocket U-shape. Fold the extra cloth
from the side.
Third work: Then press the pocket smooth.
Forth work: Keep the pocket on the bass in middle point.
Fifth work: Stitch the pocket in border line.
Uses:-
 Shirt
 Jackets
 Baby frocks

Rectangular Patch Pocket
A pocket can be sewn on like a patch, sewn in a seam or cut onto the fabric. The shape of a patch
pocket can be rectangular, curved or tapered on the bottom corners.
Diagram of Rectangular patch pocket:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of Rectangular patch pocket
 Cut two pieces of fabric according to A and B iron pattern.
 Keep the pocket 1 cm fold on the top of fabric and make a stitch
 Then put the pocket at fabric (A)’s middle point then stitch it on the borderline.
Uses:-
 Shirt
 Jackets
 Pants (Backside)
 Baby frocks

Slanted Pocket
Slanted Pocket is a type of pocket that is set on an angle on the outside of any garment. Slanted
pockets are commonly found on hacking jackets as they offer easier access when the wearer is
seated. Slanted pockets are less common that straight pockets and usually are less formal as well.
Diagram of Slanted pocket:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of Slanted pocket
 Four pieces of fabric are cut by markers lick A, B & C.
 First A and C attached through the diagonal line together and top stitched.
 Then fabric B & D are attached like the sample.
 Finally fabric C & D attached together.
Uses:-
Trouser and Male pants

Coin Pocket
Coin pocket is a flat pocket or the fifth pocket, also called watch pocket. Strictly functional, it sits
inside the right front pocket and justifies the term five-pocket jeans. Also known as match or
watch pocket.
Diagram of Coin pocket:-
Working Process:-
A B C D E
Illustrated Figure of Coin pocket
 Fabric A& B attached through the curve line & 2top stitches are made like the sample are
attached together.
 Then fabric B&E are attached together.
 Then fabric C is folded & attached with D&A pocket in made like the sample
 After these following steps we will get jen pocket with coin pocket like figure E.
Uses:
Trouser and Mal pants

Welted Pocket
It is a "set-in" pocket (the pocket opening is cut into the garment rather than applied - "set-on" -
like a patch pocket) that is finished and strengthened with "piping" or fabric "welts" along its
length.
Diagram of Welted pocket:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of welted pocket
Uses:
 Pant, trousers pocket
 Jacket and suits

Jetted Pocket
The jetted flap pocket is standard for hip pockets, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and
bottom of the slit for the pocket. It has a lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the
pocket, sewn in along the seam of the jetting.
Diagram of Jetted pocket:-
Working process:-
Illustrated Figure of Jetted pocket
 Five pieces of Fabric are cut by the marker line A, B, C, D& E.
 First Fabric A is attached with the fabric B& C.
 Then fabric D is attached with fabric B.
 Finally fabric E is attached with fabric D& C
Uses:
 Pant, trousers pocket
 Jacket and suits

Lap Zip Fastener
Zipper fastener is consisting of two rows of metal or plastic teeth on strips of tape and a sliding
piece that closes an opening by drawing the teeth together.
Diagram of Zipper faster:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Zipper faster
 Two pieces of fabric and a zipper is needed to make zipper opening.
 Fabric A& B joined together.
 Then one side of the zipper is attached with fabric B like sample.
 Fabric A is folded & attached with other side of the zipper by over stitch like the sample
 After the following steps we will get a zipper opening.
Uses:-
 Opening area of a dress.
 All kinds of pants and trousers.
 Ladies garments and skirts

Concealed Zip Fastener
Concealed zippers have the teeth hidden behind a tape, so that the zipper is invisible. It is also called the
Invisible zipper. The tape's color matches the garments, as does the slider's and the puller's.
Diagram of Zipper faster:-
Working Process:-
A B A+B
Illustrated Figure of Zipper faster
 Two pieces of fabric and a zipper is needed to make zipper opening.
 Fabric A& B joined together.
 Then one side of the zipper is attached with fabric B like sample.
 Fabric A is folded & attached with other side of the zipper by over stitch like the sample
 After the following steps we will get a zipper opening.
Uses:-
 Opening area of a dress.
 All kinds of pants and trousers.
 Ladies garments and skirts

Fly
An open fly is a fly that has been left unzipped or unbuttoned. Trousers have varied historically
in whether or not they have flies. Originally, trousers did not have flies or other openings, being
pulled down for sanitary functions.
Diagram of Fly:-
Working Process:-
Illustrated Figure of flying opening
 Three pieces of fabric and a zipper is needed to make fly opening.
 Then one side of the zipper is attached with fabric A& another side of the zipper attached
with fabric C like sample.
 Fabric B attached with fabric C by over stitch like the sample
 After the following steps we will get a fly opening.
Uses:-
 In much kind of pant or trouser we can use Zipper opening.

Edge Finishing (over lock)
Edge finishing is a process used to finish the visible edges of plywood panels or multi-ply
surfaces by laminating a plastic or wood veneer strip along the edge.
Diagram of Edge finishing:-
Working process:-
Illustrated Figure of over lock
Edge finishes by pinking- shears Edge finishes by over lock Edge finishes
Uses:-
It is use for fabric does not open yarn.

Edge Finishing (Pinked)
There is a seam performed by the placing one fabric over the other and sewing along the edges.
Side seam finishing or edge by zigzag scissors.
Diagram of Pinked:
Working process:-
Illustrated Figure of Pinked
Uses:-
Side seam finishing or edge by zigzag scissors. It is use for shirt, pant, baby’s skirt, eyeglass
cloth etc.

Edge Finishing (Turn and Stitch)
A plain seam is the most common type of machine-sewn seam. It joins two pieces of fabric together
face-to-face by sewing through both pieces, leaving a seam allowance with raw edges inside the work.
Diagram of Edge finishing:-
Working process:-
Illustrated Figure of Turn and Stitch
Press the seam open. Turn each fabric edge under 1/8” to 1/4”. Stitch close to the folded
edgeusing a straight stitch.
Uses:-
A turned-and-stitched seam finish is a way to finish seams or edges by turning under the raw
edges and edgestitching them for a clean, flat finish.

AMT-511: Apparel Manufacturing Technology

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AMT-511: Apparel Manufacturing Technology