Classification of seam, sewing method and use of apparel industry

1. Classification of seam, sewing method and use
Prepared By:
Md. Belal Uddin
ID: 101011338
Semester: 3rd
Batch: 14th
SMUCT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Topic Name: Page:
Super Impose Seam 2
French seam 3
Lapped Seam 4
Welted seam 5
Lap felled seam 6
Piped Seam 7
Piping Seam 8
Box Pleat 9
Inverted Pleat 10
Pin Tucks 11
V-Shape neck line 12
Gather 13
Darts 14
Patch pocket 15
U-Shaped Pocket 16
Sleeve Placket 17
Bound seam 18
Coin pocket 19
Zipper Attachment 20
Edge Matching 21
Edge finishing (over Lock) 22
Jetted pocket 23
Continuous Stripe Opening 24
Front Fly Zipper 25
“U” Shape neck line 26
Pant Front Pocket 27

2. 2
Super Impose Seam
A B Super Impose Seam
Seam Definition:
This is a seam performed by placing one fabric over another and sewing along the
edges.
Equipments & Materials used to make Super Imposed Seam:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch: 16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Dark red
Working Process:
These following steps are taken to make Super Imposed Seam-
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.
 Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 1 cm gap.
Uses:
 Collar/Cuff sewing.
 Collar band attach sewing & topstitching.
 Side seam and sleeve attach with safety-stitches.

3. 3
French seam
A B French seam
Seam Definition:
Place one fabric over the other. Perform sewing over one edge. Turn them and
make top stitch over the edge.
Equipments & Materials used to make French Seam:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch: 16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Dark
red
Working Process:
These following steps are taken to make French e seam.
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.
 Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 0.5 cm gap.
 Then the fabric is turned and a top stitch is given around the edges leaving 1
cm gap.
Uses:
 Collar top stitching
 Cuff top stitching.
 Shirt yoke top stitching.

4. 4
Lapped Seam
A B Lapped Seam
Seam Definition:
This seam is formed by joining two pieces of fabrics together when they partially
overlap each other.
Equipments & Materials used to make Lapped Seam:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2 PIC Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch: 16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Dark
red
Working Process:
These following steps are taken to make Super Imposed Seam-
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.
 Join together and overlap each other.
Uses:
 Attaching elastic lace
 Flat knit elastics to waist.
 Leg opening of briefs.

5. 5
Welted seam
A B Welted seam
Seam Definition:
This seam is formed by joining two pieces of fabrics together when they partially
overlap each other.
Equipments & Materials used to make French seam:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2 PIC Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch: 16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Dark
red
Working Process:
 Joined two pieces of fabric by overlapping double supper imposed Seam.
Uses
 Woven garments.

6. 6
Lap felled seam
A B Lap felled Seam
Seam Definition:
To fabrics overlapped with each other by stitch.
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2 PIC Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch: 16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Dark red
Steps Followed:
 First Work: Taken two fabrics.
 Second Work: Overlapped fabric to each other.
 Third work: In this overlapped fabrics two top stitch like Figure C.
Uses:
 Shirt, Pant

7. 7
Piped Seam
A B C Piped Seam
Seam Definition:
It is a classification of super imposed seam that form pipe like construction. Thus
comes the name Piped seam.
Equipment & Materials used to make Piped Seam:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 3
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch: 16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Dark
red
Working process:
These following steps are taken to make Piped Seam
 Fold fabric C in two.
 Place A B and fold C in between.
 Make sewing along the edge.
 Make a fold.
Uses:
 As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.
 Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines of dresses.
 To outline openings and hems
 For tailored button holes

8. 8
Piping Seam
A B C Piping Seam
Seam definition:
This is a seam performed by placing one fabric over another and sewing along the
edges.
Equipments & Materials used to make Piping:
Working process:
These following steps are taken to make Piping –
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B
 Cut a piece fabric direction of diagonal.
 Join the small part and fold with super imposed seam.
Uses:
 As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Dark red

9. 9
 Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines of dresses.
 To outline openings and hems.
 For tailored button holes
Box Pleat
A B Box Pleat
Seam Definition:
It is a fold taking the shape of a box.
Equipments & Materials used to make Box Pleat:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Working process:
These following steps are taken to make Piped Seam
 Fold fabric steps are taken to make Box Pleat –
 Make the box shape and attach the fabric B
 Turn the fabric and sewing with top stitch.
 Uses:
 To make fashionable flair skirts.

10. 10
 Easy wearable dresses
 Pocket, Shirt back.
Inverted Pleat
A B Inverted Pleat
Seam Definition:
It is a back fold taking the shape of a box.
Equipments & Materials used to make Invert pleat:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Working process:
These following steps are taken to make Invert pleat –
 It is the opposite construction of Box pleat.
 Fold the fabric according to A and sewing half inch leaving the inch gap
from the edge
 Make the box shape (set it on back) and attach the fabric B.
 Turn the fabric and sewing with top stitch.
Uses:
 To make fashionable flair skirts.

11. 11
 Easy wearable dresses.
 Pocket, Shirt back.
Pin Tucks
A Pin Tucks
Seam Definition:
This pleat is format by folding the fabric according to a particular distance with the
Super Imposed Seam.
Equipments & Materials used to make Pin Tack:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Working process:
These following steps are taken to make Pin tack -
 Fold the fabric according to a leaving 1 inch distance after one another.
 Sewing with Super Imposed Seam on the folding base.
Uses:
 Sports wear
 Women’s wear.

12. 12
V-Shape neck line
A V-nick Facing Facing with Fabric
Equipments & Materials used to make Pin Tack:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing
Thread: Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 First Work: Taken two fabrics.
 Second Work: We have to fabric frays, out 4 inch of the inter facing at the
outside edge, turn upper fabric back & sewing.
Uses:
 Collar, Children dress.

13. 13
Gather
2 Pieces Fabric Gather
Seam Definition:
Gathering means folds made in fabrics.
Equipments & Materials used to make Gather:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Working process:
 These following steps are taken to make Gather -Sewing a loose stitch
according to A and gather them.
 Attaching the fabric according to B.
 Turn it and sewing a top stitch.
User:
 Mainly use in women’s wear.

14. 14
Darts
Seam Definition:
This is simple Super Imposed seam.
Equipments & Materials used to make Dart:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 1
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Working process:
These following steps are taken to make Dart-
 Measure the form draws the line.
 Fold the fabric.
 Sewing with Super Imposed Seam.
Uses:
 Mainly use in skirts, tops, pants.

15. 15
Patch pocket
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Keep the pocket 1 cm fold on the top of the pocket & stitch a line.
 1 cm a around the pocket, with 1 cm if the pocket V shaped. Fold the extra
doth from the side.
 Then press the pocket smooth.
 Keep the pocket on the bass in middle point.
 Stitch the pocket in border line.
Uses:
 Shirt, Baby Frock.

16. 16
U-Shaped Pocket
A B U-Shaped Pocket
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Keep the pocket 1 cm fold on the top of the pocket & stitch a line.
 1 cm a around the pocket, with 1 cm if the pocket U shaped. Fold the extra
doth from the side.
 Then press the pocket smooth.
 Keep the pocket on the bass in middle point.
 Stitch the pocket in border line.
Uses:
 Shirt, Baby Frock.

17. 17
Sleeve Placket
B C
A Sleeve Placket
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 3
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Three Pieces of fabric are cut by the markets, the markers; the fabrics are
shown in the illustration as, ABC.
 First, fabric C is cut through the white line.
 Then fabric C is folded like figure D & joined with cone side of the cut area.
 After that fabric B is also folded like figure D & joined with one side of the
cut area like the sample.
 After the following steps we will get sleeve placket like figure E.
Uses:
 Mainly in shirt sleeves

18. 18
Bound seam
A B Ribbon Bound seam
Seam Definition:
This is a seam performed by polling one fabric over another and sewing along the
edges.
Equipments & Materials used to make Bound Seam:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Working Process:
These following steps are taken to make Decorative seam.
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.
 Join two small part and fold with super imposed seam.
Uses:
 As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.
 Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines o dresses.
 To outline openings and hems.

19. 19
Coin pocket
A B C D Coin pocket
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 4
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Five pieces of fabric are out by the maker; the fabrics are shown in th
illustration as, ABCDE.
 First, the fabric D is attached with the fabric E.
 Then fabric C is folded & attached with D & a pocket in made like the
sample.
 Fabric A & B is attached through the curve line & 2 top stitches are made
like the sample.
 Than fabric B & E are stitched together.
 After those following steps we will get Jens pocket with coin pocket like
Figure E.
Uses:
 Mainly in lens pants & Gabardine Pants.

20. 20
Zipper Attachment
A B Zipper Attachment
Seam Definition:
A closure made of metal or nylon chains attached to tape so that it can be stitched
in to a placket.
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 1
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Two pieces of fabric 4” x 11” & a zipper is needed to make zipper opening.
The fabric & zipper are shown in the illustration as two fabrics & zipper.
 Fabric A & B are stitched 4” x 5” together.
 Then one side of the zipper is attached with fabric B like the sample.
 Fabric A is folded & attached with other side of the zipper by over stitch like
the sample.
 After the following steps we will get sleeve placket like figure C.
Uses:
 In much kind of dresses we can use Zipper opening.

21. 21
Edge Neatching
A B Edge Neatching
Seam Definition:
Fabric side is cutting by the zigzag skijor.
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.
 Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 1 cm gap.
 Than cut the side by zigzag skijor
Uses:
 It is use for fabric does not open yarn.

22. 22
Edge finishing (over Lock)
A B edge finishing (over Lock)
Seam Definition:
Fabric side is Seam by the over lock m/c.
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.
 Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 1 cm gap.
 Than stitch the side by over lock m/c.
Uses:
 It is use for fabric does not open yarn.

23. 23
Jetted pocket
B
C
E
D
A Jetted
pocket
Fusing
Seam Definition:
5 pieces fabric are cut and a fusing cut and attaching.
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 5
PIC
A fusing
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch: 16
Sewing Thread: Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Cut the 5 pieces fabric A B & C.
 Fusing attaching the b & C fabric
 Than B & C fabric is attaching the A fabric.
 Than the D & E fabric is attaching the back side A fabric.
Uses: *It is use pant back pocket.

24. 24
Continuous Stripe Opening
A B Continuous Stripe
Seam Definition:
1 piece fabric A is cut and a Pipe fabric B cut and seam.
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 2
PIC
A fusing
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 Cut the 2 pieces fabric A &B.
 Cut the middle line of A fabric.
 Than the pipe fabric B is attach the A fabric.
Uses:
 It is use to back side of the female and baby garment

25. 25
Front Fly Zipper
A B C Front Fly Zipper
Seam Definition:
A closure made of metal or nylon chains attached to tape so that it can be stitched
in to a placket.
Equipment & Materials:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric: 3
PIC
Single Needle
Machine
Needle Size: 16
Stitch Range: 30
Stitch per inch:
16
Sewing Thread:
Cotton
Type: Cotton
Color: Red
Steps Followed:
 3 pieces of fabric & a zipper is needed to make zipper opening. The fabric &
zipper are shown in the illustration as two fabrics & zipper.
 Fabric A & B are stitched together.
 Then one side of the zipper is attached with fabric B like the sample.
 Fabric A is folded & attached with other side of the zipper by over stitch like
the sample.
 After the following steps we will get sleeve placket like figure C.
Uses:
 In much kind of pant or trouser we can use Zipper opening.

26. 26
“U” SHAPE NECK LINE
Pattern Neck Line “U”
SEAM DEFINITION:
There is a seam performed by the placing one fabric over the other with facing and,
make it look like a U shaped then its called neck line (u).
EQUIPMENTS AND MATERIALS:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric-
2pices & a
fusing.
Single needle sewing
machine
Needle size- 16
Stitch range- 10
Stitch per inch-
12
Sewing thread:
cotton
Type- cotton
Color:Red
Size- Pattern
STEPS FOLLOWED:
 Step one: Cut two pieces of fabric according to A and B and also a fusing
according to C by the iron pattern.
 Step two: Slash the fusing at fabric (B) and set up at fabric(A)’s top soiide
by the stitch of I inch.
USES:
 Male: T-shirts, Panjabi
 Female: Kamiz, frock, other dresses.

27. 27
PANT FRONT POCKET
Pattern Pocket
SEAM DEFINITION:
This is a style of pocket that is being used in jacket & formal trousers.
EQUIPMENTS & MATERIALS:
Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric
Fabric- 4pices Single needle sewing machine
Needle size- 16
Stitch range- 10
Stitch per inch-
Sewing thread:
cotton
Type- cotton
Color:Red
Size- Pattern
STEPS FOLLOWED:
 Four pieces of fabric are cut by the markers lick A, B, C & D.
 First A & C attached through the diagonal line together & top stitched.
 Then fabric B & D are attached like the sample.
 Finally fabric C & D attached together.
USES:
 Formal Pants
 Straight Pants