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Professional Institute of Science & Fashion
Technology (PISFT)
Assignment on:
Knit Machine Attachment & Engineering
KNT- 485
Submitted to:
Sayed Azaryl Haque.
Lecturer of PISFT
Submitted By:
Ormee Kumar Dey.
ID:12-02-19
Group: B-
Semester:- 8th
Batch: 1st
Submission Date: 26.12.2015.
M/C Description
Knitting
Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric. Knitting creates
multiple loops of yarn, called stitches, in a line or tube. Knitting has multiple active stitches on
the needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of interlocking
loops.
Classification of Knitting
 Knitting machine mainly two types. They are:
1. Weft Knitting Machine.
2. Warp Knitting Machine.
Knitting
Warp KnittingWeft Knitting
Flatbar Straight bar Circular TricotRaschel
Unidirectional
V-bed
Single bed
Flat bet Single needle
Double needle
Revolving
cylinder
Circular bearded single
jersey
Weft knitting: A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means is which the loop made
from each weft thread formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Characterized by the
fact that each warp thread is feed more or less in the line with the direction in which the fabric is
produced.
Warp knitting: A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means is which the loop made
from each warp thread is formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Characterized by the
fact that each warp thread is feed more or less in the line with the direction in which the fabric is
produced.
Weft knitting machine can be also divided into three types. They are:
 Flatbar.
 Straight bar.
 Circular
Flatbar can be also divided into four types. They are:
 Flat bet.
 V-bed.
 Single bed.
 Unidirectional.
Straight bar can be also divided into two types. They are:
 Single needle.
 Double needle.
Circular can be divided into two types. They are:
 Revolving cylinder.
 Circular bearded single jersey.
Revolving cylinder can be also divided into two types. They are:
 Sinker top open top single jersey.
 Cylinder and dil.
Circular bearded single jersey can be also divided into two types. They are:
 Sinker wheel.
 Loop wheel.
Warp knitting machine can be also divided into two types. They are:
 Raschel.
 Tricot.
Part’s M/C & function
Circular Knitting Machine:
Circular knitting machine is widely used through out the knitting industry to produce fabric. This
machine can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of up to
five,which are used for wear.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter according
to manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for making garments
completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular
machines because of their simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns.
Circular knitting machine
Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine
M/C name Function Picture
Creel Creel is a part of a
knitting machine.
Hear yarn package
are store and ready
to feed in the
machine.
VDQ Pulley It is a very
important part of
the machine. It
controls the quality
of the product.
Altering the
position of the
tension pulley
changes the G.S.M.
of the fabric. If
pulley moves
towards the
positive directive
then the G.S.M. is
decrease. And in
the reverse
direction G.S.M
will increase.
Pulley Belt It controls the
rotation of the MPF
wheel.
Brush Its clean the pulley
belt
Tension Disk It confronts the
tension of the
supply yarn.
Inlet and Outlet
Stop Motion
It is an important
part of the machine.
It stops the
machine instantly
when a yarn is
break.
Yarn Guide Its help the yarn to
feed in the feeder.
MPF Wheel Its control the
speed of the MPF.
Pulley belt gives
motion to the
wheel.
MPF It is Mamenger
positive feed. It is
also an important
part of the machine.
It’s give positive
feed to the
machine.
Feeder Ring It is a ring. Where
all feeders are
pleased together.
Disk Drum Use in jacquard
machine to produce
various types of
design.
Pattern Wheel Pattern Wheel use
in Pai Lung and
Auto Stripe
machine because of
that that help to
produce various
types of design and
stripe.
Feeder Feeder is help yarn
to feed in to the
machine.
Needle Track Where all Needles
is placed together
in a decent design.
Needle It is a principal
element of the
knitting machine.
Its help the yarn to
create a loop. And
by this way fabric
are produce. Prior
to yarn feeding the
needle is raised to
clear the old loop
from the hook, and
received the new
loop above it on
needle stem. The
new loop is then
enclosed in the
needle hook as the
needle starts to
descend.
Sinker It is most important
element of the
machine. Its help to
loop forming,
knocking over and
holding down the
loop.
Sinker Ring Sinker ring is a
ring. Where all
sinkers are pleased
together
Cam Box Where the cam are
set horizontally
Cam Cam is device s
which converts the
rotary machine
drive in to a
suitable
reciprocating action
for the needles and
other elements.
Lycra
Attachment
Device
Lycra is placed
hear. And feeding
to the machine.
Lycra Stop
Motion
It is one kind of
stop motion to stop
the machine when
the Lycra is break.
Cylinder Needle track are
situated hear.
Cylinder
Balancer
It helps the cylinder
to set in a proper
alignment.
Uniwave
Lubrication
The Uniwave
lubricator provides
uniform lubrication
to needles, cam
tracks, lifters and
other knitting
machine
components. The
patented nozzle
construction
separates the air-oil
mixture into air and
droplets of oil.
Adjustable Fan This part removes
lint, hairy fibre
from yarn and
others. To clean the
dust by air flow.
Expander To control the
width of the knitted
fabric. No
distortion of the
knitting courses.
Even take down
tension in the
knitting machine.
As a result, an even
fabric structure is
achieved over the
entire fabric width.
The deformation of
the knitted fabric
goods can be
reduced.
Needle Detector This part detect the
any type of faults
of needles.
Air Gun Nozzle To feed the yarn;
sometimes it is
used for cleaning
purpose.
Single Jersey Knitting Machines
Single Jersey Knitting Machine
Features
SHS, SHF featured closed tracks and broad-needle butt design on the cams of knit, truck and
miss. For the demand of fashion and easy SHF design with the central adjustment system to
adjust the fabric in different GSM-casily, and also customer can replace the cylinder without
complicated way! Sneer also create a special cam system for feeding the lycra, customer can
easy knit different kinds of high quality single jersey fabric with lycra on the machine. Produce
single jerky fabric.
SHS, SHF are also interchangeable to knit terry fabric and fleece. Customer only has to purchase
extra conversion kids to exchange on the machine to has different fabric.
Double Jersey Knitting Machines
FIG: Double Jersey Knitting Machine
Double Jersey Knitting Machine
SHP, SHD feature closed tracks and broad-needle butt design on the cams of knit, tuck and miss!
Eor the market change all the time and produce different kinds of thickness fabric in high
quality. It's very easy to adjust the pitch of needle and replace the cylinder on SHS.
SHS is also designedspeciallyforknittingwith spandex!Customerscan knit differentkindsofhigh
quality Doulle jerseyfabricwith spandexeasilyon the machine. For the concernabout the market
change and efficiencyincrease,Senherhassuccessfullydesignedthe newsystemfor replacementof
cylinderwithout the needle seatand this has dramatically saved time and effortin loadingof the
parts. For satisfythe customer'sdemandand fabric quality,we special design highprecisioncam for
double jerseyand rib. So the customerscan knit differentkindsofdoubl
Yarn count & selection
Yarn count
The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also
expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute –
“Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”
Types
 Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted.
 Direct system- Tex, Denier, Lbs/Spindle.
Indirect count
The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus higher the
count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen (wet spun) etc.
w x L
Indirect count: N= ………………
W X l
Where, W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit weight of the system.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit length of the sample.
Direct count
The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher the count,
coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fibre, jute, silk etc.
W X l
Direct count: N = …………
w X L
Where,
N = The yarn number or, count.
W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit weight of the sample.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit length of the sample.
In Details
English system-
It is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per pound is called yarn count.
Length (yds) 1 pound
English cotton count, N =……………… X …………………
840 yds Weight (Pound)
Metric system:
It is defined as the number of hank (1000m) per kg.
Length (m) 1 kg
Metric count =………………… X …………………….
1000m Weight (kg)
Worsted system:
It is defined as the number of hanks (540yds) per pound.
Length (yds) 1 Pound
Worsted count =…………………… X …………………
560 (yds) Weight (Pound)
Tex systemor, Lea count:
It is defined as the weight in grams of 1000m is called tex count.
Weight (gm) 1000m
Tex count =……………… X ……………
1 gm Length (m)
Denier:
The number or, count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m.
Weight (gm) 9000m
Denier count =……………… X ………….
1 gm Length
Pounds per spindle (Jute system):
Count in the pound per spindle system is the weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarn.
Weight (Pound) 14400 (yds)
Pound per spindle =………………. X …………….....
1 Pound Length (yds)
M/C Gauge
In knitting it is used to express the number of needle in a unit length of the needle bed. This
needle bed may flat or circular. In double knit circular machine it is used for cylinder and as well
as dial. Generally gauge is defined as number of needles per inch. According to German standard
DIN 60917 (Iyer et al1995) alphabet “E “ is used to denote knitting machine gauge.
Design Formation
LOOP
• A needle loop is one
which has been
Design Formation Discussion
12
KNIT AND PURL
• Knit stitch (technical face)
is of V-shape appearance
where the shanks are
above, and the feet are
below the head of the
preceding stitch.
• Purl stitch (technical back)
is of the semi-circle
appearance where the
legs are below, and the
feet are above the head of
the preceding stitch.
13
TUCK
• Tuck stitch is made
when a needle rises
to take a new loop
without casting off the
old. It consists of a
held loop and a tuck
loop, both of which
are intermeshed in
the same course.
14
MISS (NON-KNIT)
• A length of yarn not
received by a needle
and connecting two
loops of the same
course that are not in
adjacent wales.
15
WALE AND COURSE
• The series of loops
that intermesh in a
vertical direction are
known as 'Wale'.
• The loops that are
inter-connected
widthwise are known
as 'Course'. (one
traverse is equal to
two courses.)
Plain (face) Plain (back) 1x1 Rib
Inter lock Purl Half cardigan Full cardigan
2x2 Busket purl 2x2 Inter lock Simple crepe Jacoste
Milano Rib Double Pique Mock Rib
2x2
Twi
ss Rib 6x3 Derly ROttoman Rib
GSM Calculation
X O X O
X O X O
X O X O
X O X O
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
O O O O
O O O O
O O O O
O O O O
O X O X
X O X O
O X O X
X O X O
O X O X
X O X O
O X O X
X O X O
X O X O
X X
X O X O
X X
O O
X X
O O
X X
O O X X
O O X X
X X O O
X X O O
O O X X
X X O O
O O X X
X X O O
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X
X X
X X
X X
X X X
O O O
X O X O X O
O O
O X X O X X
O O
X O X X O X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X O X O X O
O X O X O X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X O X O X O
O X O X O X
X X O O X X O O
X X O O X X O O
X X O O X X O O
X X O O X X O O
X X O O X O O O
X X O O X O O O
X X O O X O O O
X X O O X O O O
Count Calculation on GSM
F/Type Equation
Single Jersey Count= (-0.141) GSM + 50.22
Pique Count= (-0.146) GSM + 57.16
Double Lacost Count= (-0.167) GSM + 64.36
1×1 Rib Count= (-0.123) GSM + 54.57
Lycra 1×1 Rib Count= (-0.119) GSM + 59.12
Lycra 2×2 Rib Count= (-0.108) GSM + 56.62
Interlock Count= (-0.206) GSM + 80.56
Some Example: Count Selectionon Finished GSM
F/Type F/GSM Count S/L G/GSM GSM% Feeder Number
S/J 130-
150
30s 2.65-
2.9
110-120 80% to
85%
1 cm = 18/20 Feeder for
Single Jersey
1 cm = 28/32 Feeder for
Single Lacost, S/Pique
1 cm = 30/34 Feeder for
Double Lacost, D/pique
160-
180
26s 2.7-
2.9
125-135 78% to
80%
1 cm = 16/18 Feeder for
Single Jersey
1 cm = 26/30 Feeder for
Single Lacost, S/Pique
1 cm = 28/32 Feeder for
Double Lacost, D/pique
175-
190
24s 2.75-
2.95
135-145 76% to
77%
1 cm = 16/18 Feeder for
Single Jersey
1 cm = 24/28 Feeder for
Single Lacost, S/Pique
1 cm = 26/30 Feeder for
Double Lacost, D/pique
190-
210
20s 2.9-
3.2
150-165 76% to
79%
1 cm = 4/18 Feeder for Single
Jersey
1 cm = 22/26 Feeder for
Single Lacost, S/Pique
1 cm = 24/28 Feeder for
Double Lacost, D/pique
P/interlock 180-
210
40s 1.55-
1.75
130-150 72% 1 cm = 32/36 Feeder
210-
230
34s 1.65-
1.85
150-170 72% 1 cm = 30/34 Feeder
230-
250
30s 1.65-
1.85
170-190 74% 1 cm = 28/32 Feeder
26s 72%
24s 72%
1×1 Rib 170-
190
30s 2.65-
2.85
125-130 1 cm = 17/18 Feeder
195-
225
26s 2.7-
2.95
140-155 1 cm = 16/17 Feeder
230-
250
24s 2.7-
2.95
160-175 1 cm = 16/17 Feeder
Knitting production Calculation
Production calculation of knitting means calculation of knitting machine production.To calculate
knitting machine production by weighing the total production of one hour or one shift or one
day.
Knitting machine
The practical way calculating production of a machine is as follows. In this method following
information for production calculation are required:
 Machine Guage and Dia
 RPM of Knitting Machine
 Yarn Count
 Stitch Length
Example 01:
Find out the production per shift for single jersey and rib from the following data:
For single jersey,
Fabric width = 53 ", GSM = 150 , Yarn count(Ne) = 26S
Stitch length = 2.85 mm, Cylinder Dia(D) = 25", Cylinder Gauge(G) = 24
No. of feeder = 75, R.P.M.of cyl.= 25, Time =8 hrs, Effi.= 80%
Solution:
Production/8hrs,
πDG X S.L (mm) X No. of feeder X RPM X 60 X 8 X Efficiency
= ……………………………………………………………………………… kg
2.54 X 36 X 840 X 26 X 2.2046
3.1416 X 25 X 24 X 75 X 25 X 60 X 0.80
= ………………………………………………………………………………kg
2.54 X 36 X 840 X 26 X 2.2046
= 87.85 kg (Ans)
For Rib,
Fabric width = 41", GSM = 460 , Yarn count,Ne = 24S
Stitch length = 2.90 mm, Cylinder dia,D= 32", Cylinder Gauge,G= 18
No. of feeder = 62, R.P.M.of cyl.= 15, Time =8 hrs, Effi.= 80%
Production/8hrs,
πDG X S.L (mm) X No. of feeder X RPM X 60 X 8 X Efficiency X Feeder/course (kg)
= ……………………………………………………………………………................…………
2.54 X 36 X 840 X Ne X 2.2046
3.1416 X 32 X 18 X 2.90 X 62 X 15 X 60 X 8 X 0.80
= ………………………………………………………………….. X 2 kg
2.54 X 36 X 840 X Ne X 2.2046
= 92.22 kg (Ans)
Example 02:
Calculate nominal production of a single jersey-knitting machine per hour from the data given:
 Machine Gauge = 24
 Machine Dia = 30 inches
 Number of Feeders = 90
 Machine RPM = 26
 Yarn Count = 24
 Stitch length = 4 mm
 Efficiency = 85%
Solution:
Step one
First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one revolution.
This would help us in calculating the total length of yarn consumed in one revolution.
Number of needles = Machine dia X Gauge X p (3.14)
= 30 X 24 X 3.14
= 2260 (Exact 2260.8 but needles are always in even number so we will take nearest even figure)
Number of stitches produced in revolution
Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey
fabric (full knit fabric).
Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles X Number of feeders
= 2260 X 90
= 203400
This machine is making 203400 stitches in one revolution.
Step Two
Length of stitch is 04 mm (stitch length is always calculated in metric system)
From this we can calculate yarn consumption in yards in one hour
Yarn Consumption (in yards) in one hour,
Number of stitches X length of (mm) X RPM X60 (minutes)
= ……………………………………………………………..
1000(to convert mm into meters)
203400 X 4 X 26 X 60
= ………………………………………
1000
= 1269216 meters or
= 1388015 yards
Step Three
In previous step we calculated quantity of yarn consumed in yards. We can easily calculate
weight of this yarn while its count is known (see example 03).
Weight of cotton yarn,
Length of yarn
= ……………………..
Count X 840
1388015
= …………………..
Count X 840
= 68.85 pounds or
= 31.23 Kilo grams
Efficiency 85% = 26.55 Kilo grams
Answer: This machine can produce 26.55 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency
- See more at: http://textilecalculation.blogspot.com/2015/03/production-calculation-of-
knitting.html#sthash.Yxlp1qPY.dpuf
jersey design and rib fabric in high quality on same machine. Produce double jersey fabric.
Quality Control
Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect value
for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work of good
quality.”The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various
groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality”. As such Quality Control is seen as
the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control.
Defects in the Knitted Fabrics
Fabric faults of knitting
THE FAULTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C ARE FOLLOWS:
1. HOLE MARK:
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Knot should be given properly.
2. NEEDLE MARK:
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
 Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. SINKER MARK:
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a
result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.
4. STAR :
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
5. DROP STITCHES
Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be properly.
6. OIL STAIN:
Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
7. RUST STAIN:
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
8. PIN HOLE :
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.
9. GREASE STAIN:
Causes:
 Improper greasing; &
 Excess greasing.
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
10. CLOTH FALL- OUT:
Causes:
 Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of
the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.
11. BARRE:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise)
Stripe.
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn &
these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
 We can use this fabric in white color.
12. FLY DUST:
Causes
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to
low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric
surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
 Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
13. YARN CONTAMINATION:
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
14. YARN FAULTS:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count variations.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness
The faults of flat bed knitting machines are as follows:
1. HOLES:
 Causes:
 Needle Break,
 High Tension on Tensioner,
 Excess cotton with yarn on needle.
 Faulty Needle,
 Faulty Cam Setting.
2. OIL MARK:
Causes:
 Improper Oiling on Machine; &
 Inexperienced Operator.
3. LOOP MISS:
Causes:
 Tension on take up roller,
 Needle misses.
A defect in the knitted fabric is an abnormality, which spoils the aesthetics i.e. the clean &
uniform appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters, like; dimensional
stability etc.
There are various types of defects, which occur in the knitted fabrics of all types, caused by a
variety of reasons. The same type of defects may occur in the fabric, due to a variety of different
causes e.g. Drop Stitches, Spirality. Prime causes of the fabric defects are, as follows
• Yarns
• Knitting Elements
• Knitting Machine Settings
• Dyeing
• Finishing
As regard to greige knit fabric, the first three causes are the sources for defects to occur.
Knitting Fabric Defect are those that can be created during the fabrication (fabric formation) and
some of them are listed below. These defects are checked during the quality control process
1. Needle line: when the needle is broken, bent, and old or damaged on the knitting machine it
creates the straight line mark on the length of the fabric.
2. Sinker line: When the sinker is broken, bent, and old or damaged on the knitting machine it
will create strait line mark on the length wise direction of the fabric.
3. Stripe mark/Bar defect: This defect is created when thin and thick yarns are mixed, when the
tension of one yarn is varied from the others, due to count variation, when the origins of the
cotton fiber from which yarns are made are different.
4. Canal mark: is the straight line mark through the length of the fabric and can be easily visible
on the fabric. Can be occurred due to the needle adjustment problem.
5. Different tears and holes on the fabric: this can be occurred due to the needle breaks, yarn
breaks or other.
6. Grease and oil stain: this defect arises due to the improper fabric handling of the griege fabric
or if the machine is not properly cleaned. It might or might not be removed after washing.
7. Nep, thick, thin place on the fabric: this defect is due to the irregularity of yarn used for
knitting. This irregularity of yarn will cause the dyeing problem usually dye absorption problem
(dark and light shade) making the stripe on the fabric.
Frequent faults in knitted fabrics, their definition, cause and elimination
In the terminology normally used one differentiates between the following visible from of faults
in the fabric:
1. Cracks or holes 7. Vertical stripes
2. Drop stitches 8. Horizontal stripes
3. Cloth fall – out 9. Soil stripes
4. Snagging 10.Color fly
5. Tuck or double stitches 11. Distorted stitches
6. Bunching up
This sequence of points is absolutely random; the incorporation of defect– table faults into These
11 groups permits an initial judgment. Besides general indications and comments it is always
necessary to have at least one defective fabric sample for analysis and fault ascertainment. In
most of the cases an experienced technician is needed to examine the conditions on the machine
and recommend the proper measures to be adopted.
Knitting technology

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Knitting technology

  • 1. Professional Institute of Science & Fashion Technology (PISFT) Assignment on: Knit Machine Attachment & Engineering KNT- 485 Submitted to: Sayed Azaryl Haque. Lecturer of PISFT Submitted By: Ormee Kumar Dey. ID:12-02-19 Group: B- Semester:- 8th Batch: 1st Submission Date: 26.12.2015.
  • 2. M/C Description Knitting Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric. Knitting creates multiple loops of yarn, called stitches, in a line or tube. Knitting has multiple active stitches on the needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of interlocking loops. Classification of Knitting  Knitting machine mainly two types. They are: 1. Weft Knitting Machine. 2. Warp Knitting Machine. Knitting Warp KnittingWeft Knitting Flatbar Straight bar Circular TricotRaschel Unidirectional V-bed Single bed Flat bet Single needle Double needle Revolving cylinder Circular bearded single jersey
  • 3. Weft knitting: A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means is which the loop made from each weft thread formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Characterized by the fact that each warp thread is feed more or less in the line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. Warp knitting: A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means is which the loop made from each warp thread is formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Characterized by the fact that each warp thread is feed more or less in the line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. Weft knitting machine can be also divided into three types. They are:  Flatbar.  Straight bar.  Circular Flatbar can be also divided into four types. They are:  Flat bet.  V-bed.  Single bed.  Unidirectional. Straight bar can be also divided into two types. They are:  Single needle.  Double needle. Circular can be divided into two types. They are:  Revolving cylinder.  Circular bearded single jersey. Revolving cylinder can be also divided into two types. They are:  Sinker top open top single jersey.  Cylinder and dil. Circular bearded single jersey can be also divided into two types. They are:  Sinker wheel.  Loop wheel. Warp knitting machine can be also divided into two types. They are:  Raschel.  Tricot.
  • 4. Part’s M/C & function Circular Knitting Machine: Circular knitting machine is widely used through out the knitting industry to produce fabric. This machine can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of up to five,which are used for wear. Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter according to manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for making garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular machines because of their simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns. Circular knitting machine
  • 5. Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine M/C name Function Picture Creel Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn package are store and ready to feed in the machine. VDQ Pulley It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the product. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.
  • 6. Pulley Belt It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel. Brush Its clean the pulley belt Tension Disk It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.
  • 7. Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a yarn is break. Yarn Guide Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder. MPF Wheel Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.
  • 8. MPF It is Mamenger positive feed. It is also an important part of the machine. It’s give positive feed to the machine. Feeder Ring It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together. Disk Drum Use in jacquard machine to produce various types of design.
  • 9. Pattern Wheel Pattern Wheel use in Pai Lung and Auto Stripe machine because of that that help to produce various types of design and stripe. Feeder Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine. Needle Track Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design.
  • 10. Needle It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the yarn to create a loop. And by this way fabric are produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then enclosed in the needle hook as the needle starts to descend. Sinker It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop forming, knocking over and holding down the loop. Sinker Ring Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together
  • 11. Cam Box Where the cam are set horizontally Cam Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements. Lycra Attachment Device Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the machine.
  • 12. Lycra Stop Motion It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is break. Cylinder Needle track are situated hear. Cylinder Balancer It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.
  • 13. Uniwave Lubrication The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components. The patented nozzle construction separates the air-oil mixture into air and droplets of oil. Adjustable Fan This part removes lint, hairy fibre from yarn and others. To clean the dust by air flow. Expander To control the width of the knitted fabric. No distortion of the knitting courses. Even take down tension in the knitting machine. As a result, an even fabric structure is achieved over the entire fabric width. The deformation of the knitted fabric goods can be reduced.
  • 14. Needle Detector This part detect the any type of faults of needles. Air Gun Nozzle To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.
  • 15. Single Jersey Knitting Machines Single Jersey Knitting Machine Features SHS, SHF featured closed tracks and broad-needle butt design on the cams of knit, truck and miss. For the demand of fashion and easy SHF design with the central adjustment system to adjust the fabric in different GSM-casily, and also customer can replace the cylinder without complicated way! Sneer also create a special cam system for feeding the lycra, customer can easy knit different kinds of high quality single jersey fabric with lycra on the machine. Produce single jerky fabric.
  • 16. SHS, SHF are also interchangeable to knit terry fabric and fleece. Customer only has to purchase extra conversion kids to exchange on the machine to has different fabric. Double Jersey Knitting Machines FIG: Double Jersey Knitting Machine
  • 17. Double Jersey Knitting Machine SHP, SHD feature closed tracks and broad-needle butt design on the cams of knit, tuck and miss! Eor the market change all the time and produce different kinds of thickness fabric in high quality. It's very easy to adjust the pitch of needle and replace the cylinder on SHS. SHS is also designedspeciallyforknittingwith spandex!Customerscan knit differentkindsofhigh quality Doulle jerseyfabricwith spandexeasilyon the machine. For the concernabout the market change and efficiencyincrease,Senherhassuccessfullydesignedthe newsystemfor replacementof cylinderwithout the needle seatand this has dramatically saved time and effortin loadingof the parts. For satisfythe customer'sdemandand fabric quality,we special design highprecisioncam for double jerseyand rib. So the customerscan knit differentkindsofdoubl Yarn count & selection
  • 18. Yarn count The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.” Types  Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted.  Direct system- Tex, Denier, Lbs/Spindle. Indirect count The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen (wet spun) etc. w x L Indirect count: N= ……………… W X l Where, W = The weight of the sample. w = The unit weight of the system. L = The length of the sample. l = The unit length of the sample. Direct count The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fibre, jute, silk etc. W X l Direct count: N = ………… w X L Where, N = The yarn number or, count. W = The weight of the sample. w = The unit weight of the sample. L = The length of the sample. l = The unit length of the sample. In Details English system-
  • 19. It is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per pound is called yarn count. Length (yds) 1 pound English cotton count, N =……………… X ………………… 840 yds Weight (Pound) Metric system: It is defined as the number of hank (1000m) per kg. Length (m) 1 kg Metric count =………………… X ……………………. 1000m Weight (kg) Worsted system: It is defined as the number of hanks (540yds) per pound. Length (yds) 1 Pound Worsted count =…………………… X ………………… 560 (yds) Weight (Pound) Tex systemor, Lea count: It is defined as the weight in grams of 1000m is called tex count. Weight (gm) 1000m Tex count =……………… X …………… 1 gm Length (m) Denier: The number or, count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m.
  • 20. Weight (gm) 9000m Denier count =……………… X …………. 1 gm Length Pounds per spindle (Jute system): Count in the pound per spindle system is the weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarn. Weight (Pound) 14400 (yds) Pound per spindle =………………. X ……………..... 1 Pound Length (yds) M/C Gauge In knitting it is used to express the number of needle in a unit length of the needle bed. This needle bed may flat or circular. In double knit circular machine it is used for cylinder and as well as dial. Generally gauge is defined as number of needles per inch. According to German standard DIN 60917 (Iyer et al1995) alphabet “E “ is used to denote knitting machine gauge. Design Formation LOOP • A needle loop is one which has been
  • 21. Design Formation Discussion 12 KNIT AND PURL • Knit stitch (technical face) is of V-shape appearance where the shanks are above, and the feet are below the head of the preceding stitch. • Purl stitch (technical back) is of the semi-circle appearance where the legs are below, and the feet are above the head of the preceding stitch. 13 TUCK • Tuck stitch is made when a needle rises to take a new loop without casting off the old. It consists of a held loop and a tuck loop, both of which are intermeshed in the same course. 14 MISS (NON-KNIT) • A length of yarn not received by a needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wales. 15 WALE AND COURSE • The series of loops that intermesh in a vertical direction are known as 'Wale'. • The loops that are inter-connected widthwise are known as 'Course'. (one traverse is equal to two courses.)
  • 22. Plain (face) Plain (back) 1x1 Rib Inter lock Purl Half cardigan Full cardigan 2x2 Busket purl 2x2 Inter lock Simple crepe Jacoste Milano Rib Double Pique Mock Rib 2x2 Twi ss Rib 6x3 Derly ROttoman Rib GSM Calculation X O X O X O X O X O X O X O X O X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O X O X X O X O O X O X X O X O O X O X X O X O O X O X X O X O X O X O X X X O X O X X O O X X O O X X O O X X O O X X X X O O X X O O O O X X X X O O O O X X X X O O X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X O O O X O X O X O O O O X X O X X O O X O X X O X X X X X X X X X X X X X X O X O X O O X O X O X X X X X X X X X X X X X X O X O X O O X O X O X X X O O X X O O X X O O X X O O X X O O X X O O X X O O X X O O X X O O X O O O X X O O X O O O X X O O X O O O X X O O X O O O
  • 23. Count Calculation on GSM F/Type Equation Single Jersey Count= (-0.141) GSM + 50.22 Pique Count= (-0.146) GSM + 57.16 Double Lacost Count= (-0.167) GSM + 64.36 1×1 Rib Count= (-0.123) GSM + 54.57 Lycra 1×1 Rib Count= (-0.119) GSM + 59.12 Lycra 2×2 Rib Count= (-0.108) GSM + 56.62 Interlock Count= (-0.206) GSM + 80.56 Some Example: Count Selectionon Finished GSM F/Type F/GSM Count S/L G/GSM GSM% Feeder Number S/J 130- 150 30s 2.65- 2.9 110-120 80% to 85% 1 cm = 18/20 Feeder for Single Jersey 1 cm = 28/32 Feeder for Single Lacost, S/Pique 1 cm = 30/34 Feeder for Double Lacost, D/pique 160- 180 26s 2.7- 2.9 125-135 78% to 80% 1 cm = 16/18 Feeder for Single Jersey 1 cm = 26/30 Feeder for Single Lacost, S/Pique 1 cm = 28/32 Feeder for Double Lacost, D/pique
  • 24. 175- 190 24s 2.75- 2.95 135-145 76% to 77% 1 cm = 16/18 Feeder for Single Jersey 1 cm = 24/28 Feeder for Single Lacost, S/Pique 1 cm = 26/30 Feeder for Double Lacost, D/pique 190- 210 20s 2.9- 3.2 150-165 76% to 79% 1 cm = 4/18 Feeder for Single Jersey 1 cm = 22/26 Feeder for Single Lacost, S/Pique 1 cm = 24/28 Feeder for Double Lacost, D/pique P/interlock 180- 210 40s 1.55- 1.75 130-150 72% 1 cm = 32/36 Feeder 210- 230 34s 1.65- 1.85 150-170 72% 1 cm = 30/34 Feeder 230- 250 30s 1.65- 1.85 170-190 74% 1 cm = 28/32 Feeder 26s 72% 24s 72% 1×1 Rib 170- 190 30s 2.65- 2.85 125-130 1 cm = 17/18 Feeder 195- 225 26s 2.7- 2.95 140-155 1 cm = 16/17 Feeder 230- 250 24s 2.7- 2.95 160-175 1 cm = 16/17 Feeder
  • 25. Knitting production Calculation Production calculation of knitting means calculation of knitting machine production.To calculate knitting machine production by weighing the total production of one hour or one shift or one day. Knitting machine The practical way calculating production of a machine is as follows. In this method following information for production calculation are required:  Machine Guage and Dia  RPM of Knitting Machine  Yarn Count  Stitch Length Example 01: Find out the production per shift for single jersey and rib from the following data: For single jersey, Fabric width = 53 ", GSM = 150 , Yarn count(Ne) = 26S Stitch length = 2.85 mm, Cylinder Dia(D) = 25", Cylinder Gauge(G) = 24 No. of feeder = 75, R.P.M.of cyl.= 25, Time =8 hrs, Effi.= 80%
  • 26. Solution: Production/8hrs, πDG X S.L (mm) X No. of feeder X RPM X 60 X 8 X Efficiency = ……………………………………………………………………………… kg 2.54 X 36 X 840 X 26 X 2.2046 3.1416 X 25 X 24 X 75 X 25 X 60 X 0.80 = ………………………………………………………………………………kg 2.54 X 36 X 840 X 26 X 2.2046 = 87.85 kg (Ans) For Rib, Fabric width = 41", GSM = 460 , Yarn count,Ne = 24S Stitch length = 2.90 mm, Cylinder dia,D= 32", Cylinder Gauge,G= 18 No. of feeder = 62, R.P.M.of cyl.= 15, Time =8 hrs, Effi.= 80% Production/8hrs, πDG X S.L (mm) X No. of feeder X RPM X 60 X 8 X Efficiency X Feeder/course (kg) = ……………………………………………………………………………................………… 2.54 X 36 X 840 X Ne X 2.2046 3.1416 X 32 X 18 X 2.90 X 62 X 15 X 60 X 8 X 0.80 = ………………………………………………………………….. X 2 kg 2.54 X 36 X 840 X Ne X 2.2046 = 92.22 kg (Ans) Example 02: Calculate nominal production of a single jersey-knitting machine per hour from the data given:  Machine Gauge = 24  Machine Dia = 30 inches  Number of Feeders = 90  Machine RPM = 26  Yarn Count = 24  Stitch length = 4 mm  Efficiency = 85%
  • 27. Solution: Step one First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one revolution. This would help us in calculating the total length of yarn consumed in one revolution. Number of needles = Machine dia X Gauge X p (3.14) = 30 X 24 X 3.14 = 2260 (Exact 2260.8 but needles are always in even number so we will take nearest even figure) Number of stitches produced in revolution Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric (full knit fabric). Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles X Number of feeders = 2260 X 90 = 203400 This machine is making 203400 stitches in one revolution. Step Two Length of stitch is 04 mm (stitch length is always calculated in metric system) From this we can calculate yarn consumption in yards in one hour Yarn Consumption (in yards) in one hour, Number of stitches X length of (mm) X RPM X60 (minutes) = …………………………………………………………….. 1000(to convert mm into meters) 203400 X 4 X 26 X 60 = ……………………………………… 1000 = 1269216 meters or = 1388015 yards
  • 28. Step Three In previous step we calculated quantity of yarn consumed in yards. We can easily calculate weight of this yarn while its count is known (see example 03). Weight of cotton yarn, Length of yarn = …………………….. Count X 840 1388015 = ………………….. Count X 840 = 68.85 pounds or = 31.23 Kilo grams Efficiency 85% = 26.55 Kilo grams Answer: This machine can produce 26.55 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency - See more at: http://textilecalculation.blogspot.com/2015/03/production-calculation-of- knitting.html#sthash.Yxlp1qPY.dpuf jersey design and rib fabric in high quality on same machine. Produce double jersey fabric. Quality Control Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work of good quality.”The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality”. As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control.
  • 29. Defects in the Knitted Fabrics Fabric faults of knitting THE FAULTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C ARE FOLLOWS: 1. HOLE MARK: Causes:  Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.  During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.  If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.  Badly knot or splicing.  Yarn feeder badly set. Remedies:  Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.  Use proper count of yarn.  Correctly set of yarn feeder.  Knot should be given properly. 2. NEEDLE MARK: Causes:  When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.  If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.  Remedies:  Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch. 3. SINKER MARK: Causes:  When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.  If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies:  Sinker should be changed.
  • 30. 4. STAR : Causes:  Yarn tension variation during production.  Buckling of the needle latch.  Low G.S.M fabric production. Remedies:  Maintain same Yarn tension during production.  Use good conditioned needles. 5. DROP STITCHES Causes:  Defective needle.  If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.  Take-down mechanism too loose.  Insufficient yarn tension.  Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies:  Needle should be straight & well.  Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.  Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.  Yarn tension should be properly. 6. OIL STAIN: Causes:  When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line. Remedies:  Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.  Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
  • 31. 7. RUST STAIN: Causes:  If any rust on the machine parts. Remedies:  If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.  Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling. 8. PIN HOLE : Causes:  Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies:  Change the needle. 9. GREASE STAIN: Causes:  Improper greasing; &  Excess greasing. Remedies:  Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance 10. CLOTH FALL- OUT: Causes:  Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles. Remedies:  Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch. 11. BARRE: A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) Stripe.
  • 32. Causes:  This fault comes from yarn fault.  If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.  Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.  During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.  In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver. Remedies:  We can use this fabric in white color. 12. FLY DUST: Causes  In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production. Remedies:  Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.  By cleaning the floor continuously.  By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.  Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric. 13. YARN CONTAMINATION: Causes:  If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,  If lot, count mixing occurs. Remedies:  By avoiding lot, count mixing.  Fault less spinning. 14. YARN FAULTS:  Neps.  Slubs.  Yarn count variations.  Thick/Thin place in yarn.  Hairiness
  • 33. The faults of flat bed knitting machines are as follows: 1. HOLES:  Causes:  Needle Break,  High Tension on Tensioner,  Excess cotton with yarn on needle.  Faulty Needle,  Faulty Cam Setting. 2. OIL MARK: Causes:  Improper Oiling on Machine; &  Inexperienced Operator. 3. LOOP MISS: Causes:  Tension on take up roller,  Needle misses. A defect in the knitted fabric is an abnormality, which spoils the aesthetics i.e. the clean & uniform appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters, like; dimensional stability etc. There are various types of defects, which occur in the knitted fabrics of all types, caused by a variety of reasons. The same type of defects may occur in the fabric, due to a variety of different causes e.g. Drop Stitches, Spirality. Prime causes of the fabric defects are, as follows • Yarns • Knitting Elements • Knitting Machine Settings • Dyeing • Finishing As regard to greige knit fabric, the first three causes are the sources for defects to occur. Knitting Fabric Defect are those that can be created during the fabrication (fabric formation) and some of them are listed below. These defects are checked during the quality control process
  • 34. 1. Needle line: when the needle is broken, bent, and old or damaged on the knitting machine it creates the straight line mark on the length of the fabric. 2. Sinker line: When the sinker is broken, bent, and old or damaged on the knitting machine it will create strait line mark on the length wise direction of the fabric. 3. Stripe mark/Bar defect: This defect is created when thin and thick yarns are mixed, when the tension of one yarn is varied from the others, due to count variation, when the origins of the cotton fiber from which yarns are made are different. 4. Canal mark: is the straight line mark through the length of the fabric and can be easily visible on the fabric. Can be occurred due to the needle adjustment problem. 5. Different tears and holes on the fabric: this can be occurred due to the needle breaks, yarn breaks or other. 6. Grease and oil stain: this defect arises due to the improper fabric handling of the griege fabric or if the machine is not properly cleaned. It might or might not be removed after washing. 7. Nep, thick, thin place on the fabric: this defect is due to the irregularity of yarn used for knitting. This irregularity of yarn will cause the dyeing problem usually dye absorption problem (dark and light shade) making the stripe on the fabric. Frequent faults in knitted fabrics, their definition, cause and elimination In the terminology normally used one differentiates between the following visible from of faults in the fabric: 1. Cracks or holes 7. Vertical stripes 2. Drop stitches 8. Horizontal stripes 3. Cloth fall – out 9. Soil stripes 4. Snagging 10.Color fly 5. Tuck or double stitches 11. Distorted stitches 6. Bunching up This sequence of points is absolutely random; the incorporation of defect– table faults into These 11 groups permits an initial judgment. Besides general indications and comments it is always necessary to have at least one defective fabric sample for analysis and fault ascertainment. In most of the cases an experienced technician is needed to examine the conditions on the machine and recommend the proper measures to be adopted.