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DAY 4 | NATIVE GRAPE ODYSSEY MAESTRO COURSE - TORONTO
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Maestro Course - Session no. Date, location
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© Native Grape Odyssey © Attilio Scienza - All rights reserved
Europe. Quality. Wine.
Discovering the true essence of PDO and PGI wines.
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Between the
Tyrrhenian and Ionian
Seas
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Between the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas
Lazio
Campania
Basilicata
Calabria
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Lazio
•Mediterranean climate
•Volcanic soil
•Hilly
•Malvasias & Trebbianos = > 85%
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Malvasia Group
•Mostly unrelated
•Red, white and pink
•All styles: dry, sweet, still bubbly
•Name possibly from Monemvasia
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Malvasia Group
•Lazio: Malvasia del Lazio & Malvasia Bianca di Candia
•Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Malvasia Istriana
•Tuscany: Malvasia Bianca Lunga
•Emilia-Romagna: Malvasia Candia Aromatica
•Sicily: Malvasia di Lipari
•Puglia: Malvasia Nera di Brindisi & Malvasia Nera di Lecce
•Piedmont: Malvasia di Schierano & Malvasia di Carsorzo
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Malvasia Bianca di Candia
•From Latin Candia (Crete)
•Most plantings in Lazio
•Dependable and productive
•Neutral, thin, light-bodied
•Typically dry, still and blended
•Frascati DOC/Frascati Superiore DOCG
•Not related to Malvasia di Candia Aromatica
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Malvasia di Lazio
•Low yielding
•Delicately aromatic (sage & citrus)
•Usually dry, still and blended; occasionally sweet
•Frascati DOC/Frascati Superiore DOCG
•Aka Malvasia Puntinata (puntinata = speckled)
•Natural crossing of Schiava Grossa and Moscato d'Alessandria
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Malvasia di Lazio
•Low yielding
•Delicately aromatic (sage & citrus)
•Usually dry, still and blended; occasionally sweet
•Frascati DOC/Frascati Superiore DOCG
•Aka Malvasia Puntinata (puntinata = speckled)
•Natural crossing of Schiava Grossa and Moscato d'Alessandria
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Malvasia Bianca Lunga
•Predominantly in Tuscany
•Included in original Chianti recipe
•Important in Vin Santo DOPs
•Long bunches and thick-skinned
•Delicately aromatic, slightly saline, low acid
•Usually still, sweet white and blended
•Related to Malvasia Nera di Brindisi, Malvasia Istriana & Malvasia di Lipari
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Malvasia Istriana
•Predominantly in Friuli-Venezia Giulia
•Best on well-drained soils
•Varying degrees of aromatic intensity
•Delicately floral, saline, mineral
•Style: dry still white
•DOPs: Collio DOC, Isonzo DOC
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Malvasia Nera di Brindisi
•From Puglia
•Best in sandy soils, early ripening
•Pale color, lightly aromatic, medium-bodied, blackberry and violet
•Still dry red, usually blended (Negro Amaro)
•Salice Salentino DOC
•Natural crossing of Malvasia Bianca Lunga & Negro Amaro
•≠ Malvasia Nera di Lecce
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Malvasia Nera di Lecce
•Later ripening than Malvasia Nera di Brindisi
•Pale color, neutral aromas
•Dry still & blended
•In Tuscany, likely Tempranillo
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Cesanese Comune & Cesanese d’Affile
•Exclusive to Lazio
•Cesanese Comune vs. Cesanese d’Affile
•Deep crimson color, red fruit, rose, cinnamon,
white pepper & low tannin
•Usually dry still red; some sweet passito wine
•explain both are exclusive to Lazio
•state Cesanese d’Affile is considered to be of higher quality
•describe general characteristics (color, aromas/flavors, structure)
•explain that the passito sweet version is starting to become popular
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Cesanese DOPs
•Cesanese del Piglio DOCG,
•Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC
•Cesanese d’Affile DOC
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Campania
• Mediterranean climate
• Volcanic soil
• Hilly
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Campania’s Native Grapes
• Fiano
• Falanghina
• Coda di Volpe Bianca
• Greco Group:
• Greco
• Greco Bianco
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Campania’s Native Grapes
• Fiano
• Falanghina
• Coda di Volpe Bianca
• Greco Group:
• Greco
• Greco Bianco
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Fiano
•Late ripening with thick skin
•lean & mineral to rich & full-bodied
•white blossoms, pear, green apple and hazelnut
•ageworthy
•Usually still dry white; some sweet versions
•Fiano di Avellino DOCG
•Lapio: cru site
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Campania’s Native Grapes
• Fiano
• Falanghina
• Coda di Volpe Bianca
• Greco Group:
• Greco
• Greco Bianco
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Falanghina
Among Campania’s most ancient
From Latin falangae = phalanx
Falanghina Flegrea vs. Falanghina Beneventana
Floral & green leaf aromas; peach, apricot, high acid
Usually dry still white; some sparkling and blends
Falanghina del Sannio DOC
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Campania’s Native Grapes
• Fiano
• Falanghina
• Coda di Volpe Bianca
• Greco Group:
• Greco
• Greco Bianco
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Coda di Volpe Bianca
•Means fox’s tail
•Low in acidity, tropical aromas
•Mostly dry still white; some sparkling & dessert
•Frequently blended
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Campania’s Native Grapes
• Fiano
• Falanghina
• Coda di Volpe Bianca
• Greco Group:
• Greco
• Greco Bianco
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Greco Group
•Group of unrelated white and red grapes
•Key members: Greco & Greco Bianco
•Name: reference to Greek-style wines
•Plus color
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Greco
•Greco (grape) & Greco di Tufo (wine)
•Tannic white
•Golden yellow color, high alcohol, rich & oily, high acidity
•Flowers, peach, honey, even tropical
•Greco di Tufo DOCG
•Not to be confused with or called Greco Bianco
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CAMPAIGN FINANCED
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Basilicata
•Mountainous (continental)
•Almost landlocked
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Basilicata’s Native Grapes
• Aglianico
• Piedirosso
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Basilicata’s Native Grapes
• Aglianico
• Piedirosso
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Aglianico
•NOT from ellanico/Hellenic nor Greek in origin
•Among Italy’s oldest varieties
•Late ripening
•Best at altitudes
•Affinity with volcanic soil
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Aglianico
•Deep, dark color
•Floral, savory, minerally, tarry
•High tannin and acidity, full-bodied
•Age-worthy
•Typically dry still red
•Blending partners: Piedirosso, Primitivo, Montepulciano
•Biotypes: Taurasi, Taburno and del Vulture
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Aglianico DOPs - Campania
Taurasi DOCG
Aglianico del Taburno DOCG
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Aglianico DOPs - Basilicata
Aglianico del Vulture DOC
Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG
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Basilicata’s Native Grapes
• Aglianico
• Piedirosso
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Piedirosso
•Name = red feet
•Plantings concentrated around Naples
•Pale color, red berry with floral, tar & herbal nuances
•Usually blended with Aglianico
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Calabria
•Mediterranean climate
•Meeting of coast & rugged mountains
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Gaglioppo
•From Greek meaning ‘beautiful feet’
•Sensitive to drought & disease
•Pale garnet color
•Red berries, mineral & dried herbs
•High tannin, acidity & alcohol
•Dry still red, often blended
•With Maglioccos
•Off-spring of Sangiovese
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Gaglioppo
•Cirò DOC
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CAMPAIGN FINANCED
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The wines of the
islands
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Wines of the Islands
Sicily
Sardegna
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Sicily
•Mediterranean climate
•Hilly
•Diversity of soils
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Comune
• Grillo
• Carricante
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Carricante
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Catarratto Bianco Commune
•From cataratta = waterfall
•2nd most planted white in Italy
•Best on hillside sites
•Tropical, citrus & herbal notes; moderate to low acidity
•Catarratto Lucido considered a biotype
•Offspring of Garganega
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Catarratto Bianco Commune
•Styles: Dry still white; fortified
•DOPs:
Sicilia DOC
Marsala DOC
IGP Terre Siciliane
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Carricante
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Grillo
•From grilli = pips
•Low yielding, heat & drought tolerant
•Oxidizes easily
•Reductive winemaking favored
•Citrusy, herbal & crisp
•Styles: Dry still whites; fortified
•= Catarratto Bianco Lucido x Moscato di Alessandria
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Carricante
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Anzonica / Insolia
•Known as Inzolia in Sicilia
•Drought & heat resistant, early ripening
•Low acid, tannic white
•Sicily: citrusy, light to medium bodied
•Elba: saline, high alcohol, medium to full bodied
•Styles: Dry still whites; fortified; passito
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Carricante
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Carricante
•From caricare = to load up
•Best on volcanic slopes
•Harvested late to curb high acidity
•Green fruit, citrus, floral, stone fruit, herbal, saline & mineral
•Ageworthy
•Blended with: Catarratto Bianco
•DOPs: Etna Bianco DOC (& Superiore)
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Carricante
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Nerello Mascalese
•Vigorous but irregular; late-ripening
•Terroir sensitive
•Pale color, medium body, high alcohol, astringent tannin
•Red cherry, tobacco, aromatic herbs, mineral
•Blended with Nerello Cappuccio
•Thought to be an offspring of Sangiovese
•DOPs: Etna Rosso DOC, Faro DOC
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Carricante
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Nerello Cappuccio
•Cappuccio = cowl/cap
•Vigorous, consistent yielder; earlier ripening
•Deep red color, low rustic tannin, modest acidity
•Blending partner for Nerello Mascalese
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Carricante
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Calabrese / Nero d’Avola
•Calau Avulisi = coming down from Avola
•Affinity with saline soils
•Retains acidity
•Dark fruit aromas & flavours, bright acidity, saline
•Typically dry, still red
•Blending partner: Frappato (and international varieties)
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Calabrese / Nero d’Avola DOPs
•Sicilia DOC
•IGP Terre Siciliane
•Noto DOC
•Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
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Sicily’s Native Grapes
• Catarratto Bianco Comune
• Grillo
• Ansonica/Inzolia
• Carricante
• Nerello Mascalese
• Nerello Cappuccio
• Calabrese/Nero d’Avola
• Frappato
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Frappato
•Affinity for red sandy-calcareous soil
•Strawberry, violet, broom and dried herbs
•Pale red color, medium bodied, low tannin,
juicy acidity, moderate alcohol
•Typically blended with Nero d’Avola
•Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
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Sardegna
•Mediterranean climate
•Hilly
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Sardegna’s Native Grapes
• Vermentino / Pigato / Favorita
• Nuragus
• Cannonau
• Carignano
• Monica
• Bovale Sardo
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Sardegna’s Native Grapes
• Vermentino / Pigato / Favorita
• Nuragus
• Cannonau
• Carignano
• Monica
• Bovale Sardo
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Vermentino / Pigato / Favorita
•Genetic identical
•Favorita & Pigato biotypes of Vermentino
•But… they give different wines
•AKA Rolle
•Semi-aromatic, crisp, herbal/saline character
•Styles: dry & still; sparkling; late-harvest; passito
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Vermentino DOPs in Sardegna
•Vermentino di Sardegna DOC
•Vermentino di Gallura DOCG
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Vermentino DOPs in Liguria
•Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC
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Sardegna’s Native Grapes
• Vermentino / Pigato / Favorita
• Nuragus
• Cannonau
• Carignano
• Monica
• Bovale Sardo
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Nuragus
•Nuraghi = prehistoric stone structures
•Drought resistant
•delicately aromatic, low acidity & alcohol, bitterness
•Styles: Dry & still; also sweet and/or frizzante
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Sardegna’s Native Grapes
• Vermentino / Pigato / Favorita
• Nuragus
• Cannonau
• Carignano
• Monica
• Bovale Sardo
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Cannonau
•AKA Grenache/Garnacha
•Biotypes:
•Veneto - Tai Rosso
•Umbria – Gamay Perugino
•pale to medium color intensity
•dried flowers, herbs, red berries, high alcohol, tannic grip
•Style: dry, still red; sometimes blended
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Cannonau
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC
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You say, Cannonau, we say Garnacha…
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Sardegna’s Native Grapes
• Vermentino / Pigato / Favorita
• Nuragus
• Cannonau
• Carignano
• Monica
• Bovale Sardo
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Carignano
•AKA Carignan/ Cariñena
•Traditional grape - originally from Spain
•Well-suited to arid heat of Sardegna
•Deep colour, dark fruit, high tannin, full-bodied
•Carignano del Sulcis DOC
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Monica
•Vigorous & dependable
•Medium weight, modest tannin
•red berries, orange, herbs, tobacco
•Often blended with Cannonau & Bovale
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Bovale Sardo
•Thought to be same as Graciano
•Deep colour, high tannin, med-high acidity
•Often blended with Cannonau, Carignano & Monica
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The links between
Spain and Italy
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The connections between grapes…
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Garnacha
-First mention of the grape G(u)arnacha is from Ceventes in 1613,
considerably later than the first mention of Cannonau in 1348 in
Italy.
-one of the most planted Spanish varietals and gives a wine high in
alcohol with a tendency to mature early. It is particularly important in
the DO of Priorat, along with Carinena.
-Second most planted after Tempranillo.
-Grown particularly in the north and east of the country.
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Graciano
-As outlined by Atillio Scienza Graciano found in Spain is the same variety as
Bovale Sardo which is found in Sardegna.
-Highly valued variety in Spain, but hard to grow. Small quantities are added
to wine to give concentrated black fruit aromas, acidity and tannin.
-Richly perfumed and chiefly grown in northern Spain, especially Rioja.
-Buds late and is prone to downy mildew.
- Bovale Sardo - Smaller berries, Longer, winged, tightly packed bunch
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Cariñena
Carignano = Bovale Grande = Nerello Cappuccio
12 loci SSR showed a significant similarity with the Bovale Grande (21 alleles out of
24 in 10 of the 12 loci analyzed) and
with the Spanish varieties Cariñena and Mazuela and a local type known as Axina
de Spagna.
With these three varieties sharing (23 out of 24) confirming the results obtained
from a previous survey (Nieddu et al., 2007).
In the Rioja DOCa Carinena is also referred to by the name Mazuelo.
-Chiefly grown in Catalunya, but is best know for it’s role in Priorat wines.
-Late-ripening and needs a hot climate
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