Role of Herbs in Cosmeceutical Science. Regulatory Requirements for cosmetics.

1. ROLE OF HERBS IN
COSMETICS
Presented by:
Arzoo Piruka
CLASS-1 SEM- 8
EN.ROLL NO.- 201703100210100
SUBJECT- Cosmetic Science

2. Content
1) Introduction
2) Role of herbal ingredient in hair care
3) Role of herbal ingredients in skin care
4) Role of herbal ingredients in oral care
5) Challenges associated with herbal cosmetics
6) Regulatory requirements
7) Advantage
8) Disadvantage
9) Reference
2

3. INTRODUCTION
Herbs are generally defined as non-woody plants, which die
after blooming. This definition has been expanded to any of
the plants of which part or whole can be used in medicinal
treatments, culinary preparations (as seasonings), nutritional
supplementation, or used as a colouring or cosmetic agent.
Herbal Cosmetics as products are formulated, using various
permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which
one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined
cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”.
3

4. 1) ROLE OF HERBAL INGREDIENT IN
HAIR CARE

5. TYPES OF HERBAL HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
 HAIR OIL: It used for dressings and nourishing the hairs and grace to appearance of
hairs. This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and remains
healthy. E.g. Arnica, shikakai.
 HAIR LOTION: It has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They are generally
perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes as it posses a good stimulating
property.
 HAIR COLORANTS: These are preparations which are used for the coloring of the
hairs. They are applied externally on the hair with help of brush. E.g. Lawsonia alba
Lam.
 SHAMPOO: Shampoo is preparation of surfactant in suitable form liquid, solid or
powder, which is used to remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair
shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the hair, scalp or health of the user. E.g.
Accacia concinna DC.
5

6. MEDICINAL HERBS USED IN HAIR
CARE COSMETICS
6

7. 1. Henna (Lawsonia inermis): Family- Lythraceae)
• Its grows wild and cultivated as garden plant. Its leaves are the part of plant that is used in
hair care formulations.
• Henna leaves have been used from ancient time as a hair colour due to the chemical
interaction of lawsone (thiol group) to the keratin.
2. Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum graecum : Family-Leguminoseae)
• Plant is a quick growing annual leguminous herb about 2 feet in height. Generally seed is
used to prepare hair care formulations.
• Traditionally fresh Fenugreek leaves paste applied over the scalp regularly before bath helps
hair grow, preserves natural color, keeps hair silky and also cures dandruff.
3. Cedar wood oil (Juniperus virginiana)
• Cedar wood oil extracted from the woods for hair loss and dandruff.
• It is especially for dry hair, and to induce hair growth along with other essential oils.
4. Sesame oil (Sesamum indicum :Family- Pedaliaceae)
• It is obtained from ripe seeds of Sesamum indicum, an annual herb by expression technique.
• Sesame oil is used commercially for hair tonic formulations.
7

8. 5. Shikakai (Acacia concinna :Family-Mimosaceae)
• It is a shrub widely found in plains of central and south India.
• Shikakai literally means fruit of hairs.
• It is an excellent natural hair cleanser and astringent and also acts as detangle. It is used in soaps
and shampoos for hair wash, promotes hair growth, removes dandruff and strengthens hair.
6. Gurhal (Hibiscus rosa sinensis: Family-Malvaceae)
• In herbal formulations, hibiscus petal is used to stimulate thicker hair growth and to prevent
premature graying, hair loss and scalp disorders.
• Petals extract acts as a natural hair conditioner and can be used in hair washes.
7. Jatamansi (Nardostachys jatamansi: Family-Valerianaceae)
• Oil obtained from rhizomes of this plant used in hair tonic preparations, to promote the growth of
hair and impart blackness.
• Jatamansi is a useful hair tonic and is commonly used in hair oils, promoting hair growth and
luster.
8. Arnica (Arnica Montana: Family-Apiaceae)
• It obtained from dried roots and flowers of Arnica Montana.
• Arnica is used for hair tonics and anti-dandruff preparations. 8

9. Marketed Products of Herbal Hare Care Cosmetics
Category Products Brand Name Manufacturer
Herbal Hare Care Shampoo Agarwal honey aloe
vera shampoo
Agarwal Herbal Product
Anti dandruff shampoo Himalaya antidandruff
shampoo
The himalaya drug
company, Banglore
Hair oil • Neem & Amala hair
oil
• Prakriti sesam gold
hair oil
• Radico Radico.pvt.ltd
• Prakriti Herbals,
Bangalore
Hair conditioner Vedico aloevare hair
conditioner
Vedico Bio Labs
Hair colours Crown heena hair
colours
Crown herbals.pvt.ltd
9

10. 2) ROLE OF HERBAL INGREDIENTS
IN SKIN CARE
10

11. TYPES OF HERBAL SKIN CARE PRODUCTS :
1. Cleansing agent: which remove the dust, dead cells and dirt that chokes the
pores on the skin.
Some of the common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut, sesame
and palm oil.
2. Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it from being exposed to
many of the toxins that are floating in the air or other environmental pollutants.
Some of the herbs used as toners are witch hazel, geranium, sage, lemon,
ivy burdock and essential oils.
3. Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become soft and supple.
Moisturizing shows a healthy glow and are less prone to aging .
Some of the herbal moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol,
rose water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and iris.
11

12. MEDICINAL HERBS USED IN SKIN
CARE COSMETICS
12

13. Dry Skin
Treatment
Coconut oil:
• Coconut oil comes from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos
nucifera, family Arecaceae.
• Coconut oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener. A study shows
that extra virgin coconut oil is effective and safe when used as a moisturizer,
with absence of adverse reactions.
Sunflower Oil:
• It is the non-volatile oil expressed from sunflower seeds obtained from
Helianthus annuus, family Asteraceae.
13

14. Anti-Aging Treatment
Golden Root Rhodiola rosea (Roseroot, Aaron's rod)
• It is a plant in the Crassulaceae family that grows in cold regions of the world.
• It is widely thought to have anti oxidative properties.
Carrot
• It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae.
• It is a rich natural source of Vitamin A along with other essential vitamins.
• Carrot seed oil is indicated for anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating as it promotes the
formation of new cells and helps in reducing wrinkles.
Ginkgo
• Ginkgo comes from the ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba belongs to family Ginkgoaceae
• It is best known, as a circulatory tonic, in particular for strengthening the tiny little capillaries to
all the organs.
• The capillaries become more flexible and as a result more oxygen is delivered to the brain and
eyes (to protect against degenerative eye diseases like macular degeneration),so important as
we age.
14

15. Skin Protection
Green Tea:
• Green tea is tea made solely with the leaves of Camellia sinensis belonging to family Theaceae .
• It serves as a premiere skin protectant .
• It protects against direct damage to the cell and moderates inflammation.
• The catechins in green tea are some times stronger in their antioxidant powers than even
vitamin E.
Turmeric :
• Turmeric, Curcuma longa is a rhizomatous perennial plant of the ginger family Zingiberaceae.
• Turmeric contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory components. These characteristics may
provide glow and luster to the skin.
• It may also revive your skin by bringing out its natural glow.
15

16. Marketed Products of Herbal Skin Care Cosmetics
Category Products Brand Name Manufacturer
Herbal Skin Care Face Pack Amazine Herbal Scars
Face Pack
Amazing
Herbal Remedies, New
Delhi
Massage gel Amazine herbal fruit
massage gel
Amazine India
Marketing Pvt. Ltd
Face Wash Combi neem face wash Combii Organochem
Pvt. Ltd
Cream Vicco turmeric cream Vicco laboratories,
India
Face scrub Aloe indica face scrub Aloe indica.pvt.ltd
Face Powder Agarwal tulsi face
powder
Agarwal Herbal
Products
16

17. 3) ROLE OF HERBAL INGREDIENTS IN ORAL
CARE
17

18. TYPES OF HERBAL ORAL CARE PRODUCTS
In many traditional cultures, there are no plastic-bristle brushes, rather, the use of herbal
"chewing sticks" are common.
• Chewing sticks are usually taken from plants, shrubs or trees with high anti-microbial activity.
The ends of selected sticks are shredded and they are used to massage the gums and "floss" the
teeth.
• In Traditional Medicine, the following herbs have a long history of use for prevention and in
assisting the body to heal itself in gum and tooth disorders.
Dentifrices - Dentifrice are the preparations intended for use with a toothbrush for the purpose of
cleaning the accessible surfaces of teeth. E.g. Soap powder, Saccharin, Amaranth (solution), Oil
of cinnamon, Oil of peppermint.
Tooth paste- To remove adherent soiling matter from a hard surface with minimal damage.
E.g. Babool, lavang, akarkara.
Mouth wash -Mouthwash or mouth rinse is a product used to enhance oral hygiene. E.g.
Bibhitaka, Nagavalli , Gandhapura taila, Peppermint satva.
18

19. MEDICINAL HERBS USED IN ORAL
CARE
19

20. 1. Clove Oil (Syzygium aromaticum)
• It has got excellent analgesic and antiseptic properties which inhibit growth of all disease
causing bacteria
USES: 1. Relieve toothache
2. Treating bleeding gums.
2. Honey (Madhu)
USES: In treatment of various oral ulcerative conditions and have antibacterial action.
3. Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca alternifolia)
• It has antiseptic and antifungal properties.
USES : In the treatment of Throat Irritation.
4. Garlic (Allium sativum)
• Its antibacterial activity depends on allicin produced by enzymatic activity of allinase
USES: Inhibits the growth of Streptococcus mutans, and therefore, can be used as an effective
remedy in the prevention of dental caries.
20

21. 5. Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
• It is mainly composed of volatile oils namely phenol, thymol, and carvacrol
USED IN : it contains fluoride & used in toothpaste
6. Turmeric (Curcuma longa Linn.)
• It is an antiseptic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and painkiller.
7. Meswak (Salvadora persica)
• It is a derivative from Arak tree, used as a traditional toothbrush for oral hygiene.
8. Neem (Azadirachta indica)
USED IN: preventing and healing gum diseases and other dental problems such as bleeding and
plaque
9. Evening Primrose (Oleum Oenothera biennis)
• It has anti-allergic and anti-ulcer activity.
USED IN : Treatment of dental caries.
10. Lavender oil (Lavandulalatifolia)
• It is obtained from the flowers of Lavandula angustifolia 21

22. Marketed Products of Herbal Oral Care Cosmetics
Category Products Brand Name Manufacturer
Herbal Oral Care Toothpaste Dant Kanti Patanjali Ayurved's,
Haridwar
Mouthwash Hiora Mouthwash The Himalaya Drug
Company
Dental Floss Thera Neem Dental
Floss
Organix South inc.
22

23. CHALLENGES ASSOCIATED WITH
HERBAL COSMETICS
23

24. Challenges
24
 A key challenge is to objectively assess conflicting toxicological, epidemiological and
other data and the verification of herbal materials used.
 Herbal ingredients needs special care and precautions during the complete phase of
extraction process. Improper drying may lead to unintentional adulteration.
E.g. if digitalis leaves are dried above 65 °C decomposition of glycosides by
enzymatic hydrolysis.
 Insufficient Documentation:
• Most herbal cosmetics depend on traditional methods or Ayurvedic formulations in their
manufacturing.
• Some of these are passed down through generations, while some are only documented.
 No specific standardization:
• There is no single standardization applied to herbal cosmetic formulations.
• Since the processing of one batch often differed from another, a single company’s own
product line may not have a standard output.
• This makes compliance with certain rules difficult, especially in some developed markets.

25. Challenges
25
 Lack of herbal ingredients:
• Only few ingredients of natural origin as well no synthetic surfactants be used as
preparation is nature based cosmetics.
• The problem of formulating with less ingredients may lead to the formation of
product that may not work as well with synthetic chemical based competition.
 Quality of raw material:
• Herbal cosmetics require the careful cultivation of plants and herbs in their natural
environment.
• The raw material for herbal cosmetics company cannot be mass produced in a
factory. Neither can one reproduce these in a matter of minutes in a laboratory.

26. Challenges
26
 Stability problem:
• Stability of herbal component both prior and after formulation are a
major challenge as they degrade easily by many physiochemical
process.
• Deterioration happens especially during storage, leading to the loss of
the active ingredients, production of metabolites with no activity.
• Physical factors such as air (oxygen), humidity, light, and temperature
can bring about deterioration directly or indirectly.

27. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS.
27

28. Differing regulatory requirements
28
Differing regulatory requirements and subsequent delays in application submission and
review process emerged as a major concern for the herbal medicine manufacturers from
the survey results.
Therefore, a comparative analysis of drug registration requirement was performed for
countries such as India, the United States, and European nations to understand the
differences in approval procedures and submission requirements.
In India, the traditional herbal medicines, such as Ayurveda, Siddha, and Unani (ASU), are
considered safe because of their long history of use. As such, no safety and efficacy
studies are required for marketing approval, as per the Drugs and Cosmetics Act of 1940
(DCA).
The State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA) regulates manufacturing and marketing
approvals.

29. 29
 In the United States, most of the Indian herbal medicinal products are marketed as dietary
supplements under the Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act of 1994.
 The Act does not require submission of any safety or efficacy data for marketing approval.
 The manufacturers do not need to register their products with the US Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) or get approval before producing or selling dietary supplements.
 The FDA is responsible for taking action against any unsafe dietary supplement product after it
reaches the market.
 In the European Union (EU), however, the application for marketing authorization for traditional
medicinal products requires bibliographic evidence and preclinical safety data (such as the
toxicologic and pharmacologic test data).
 As per the Traditional Herbal Medicinal Product Directive to obtain traditional use registration,
the applicant has to submit the quantitative and qualitative particulars of constituents of the
medicinal product, a description of manufacturing methods, therapeutic indications,
contraindications, adverse reaction, posology, and form and route of administration.
 The application also requires the summary of product characteristics without the clinical
particulars as specified.

30. 30
Country Regulatory authority Description Regulation/Act
EU European Medicines Agency
(EMEA): The Committee on
Herbal Medicinal Products
(HMPC)
Establishment of HMPC and
regulation of herbal
medicine.
Registration Procedure for
traditional herbal medicinal
products
Directive 2004/24/EC
(Traditional Herbal Medicinal
Products Directive) and
Regulation (EC) No 726/2004.
Articles 16a to 16i of Directive
2001/83/EC
US USFDA: Center for Drug
Evaluation and Research
(CDER)
Center for Biologics Evaluation
and Research (CBER)
Botanical drug definition
Regulation of herbal product
Regulation of Allergenic
extracts and vaccines that
contain botanical
ingredients
201(g)(1)(B), Federal Food,
Drug, and Cosmetic Act
Dietary Supplement Health and
Education Act of 1994 (DSHEA)
Section 351 of the Public Health
Service Act (42 U.S.C. 262).
India Department of Ayurveda, Yoga
& Naturopathy, Unani, Siddha
and Homoeopathy (AYUSH)
Production and marketing of
ASU drugs
GMP for ASU drugs Schedule
T,
Drugs & Cosmetics Act, 1940
Drugs & Cosmetics Rules, 1945
Drugs & Cosmetics Act, 1940

31. ADVANTAGES
 They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side
effects.
 They are easily incorporated with skin and hair.
 With small quantity they are very effective as compared to
synthetic cosmetics.
 Extracts of plant decreases the bulk property of cosmetics and
gives appropriate pharmacological effects.
 Easily available & found in large variety & quantity.
 Easy to manufactures and cheap in cost. 31

32. DISADVANTAGES
32
 Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic
dosage form. Also it requires long term therapy.
 They are difficult to hide taste and odor.
 Most of the herbal drugs are not easily available.
 Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated.
 No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients
to be used in any of herbal cosmetics

33. Reference
1) Sumit K, Vivek S, Sujata S, Ashish B. Herbal cosmetics: used for skin and hair. Inven. J.
2012 Oct 10;2012:1-7.
2) Gupta A, Malviya R, Singh TP, Sharma PK. Indian medicinal plants used in hair care
cosmetics: a short review. Pharmacognosy Journal. 2010 Jun 1;2(10):361-4.
3) Dhaliwal JS, Gambhir RS, Sodhi SK, Shaheed G, Haji DD, Kifli M. Herbs and their use in oral
care: A Review. Brunei Darussalam Journal of Health. 2017;7(1):5-17.
4) Shivanand P, Nilam M, Viral D. Herbs play an important role in the field of cosmetics.
International Journal of PharmTech Research. 2010;2(1):632-9.
5) Herbal extracts in oral health care - A review of the current scenario and its future needs
(nih.gov)
6) Sahoo N, Manchikanti P. Herbal drug regulation and commercialization: an Indian industry
perspective. The Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine. 2013 Dec
1;19(12):957-63. 33