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Herbal Cosmetics
 The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “Kosm tikos” meaning
having the power, arrange, skill in decorating. Using various permissible cosmetic
ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to
provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal cosmetics”
 Drug and Cosmetic Act. 1940: Any article or preparation intended to rubbed,
poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of human
body for cleaning, perfuming, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering
the appearance and includes any article intended for use as component of
cosmetics.
• Cosmetic used to perform the following action
 To clean
 To perfume
 To change the appearance
 To protect
 To keep in good condition
 To correct the body odor etc.
• The field of application of cosmetic remains to the epidermis, hair system, nails,
lips, teeth and mucous membrane of oral cavity.
Cosmeceuticals
• Cosmeceuticals is the fastest growing segment of the personal care products, these are cosmetic
products which contain biologically active principles or ingredients of plant origin. There is an
increased demand for the use of natural substances in cosmetics in recent years due to their mild
action and non toxic in nature, in many cases they are found to be quite effective.
• Cosmetic phytognosy: which deals with biochemical and physicochemical properties of plant
derived ingredients to be used in cosmetics.
• Cosmetic Phytognosy is a new terminology for the science of functional plant derived cosmetic
ingredients
• Typically there are six different types of plant derived ingredients commonly used in herbal
cosmetics. These are:
 Fresh materials
 Dried Materials
 Acellular products (oils, resins, gums)
 Galenical preparations (infusions, decoctions, extracts)
 Processed extracts
 Pure isolated compound
• Skin care products: skin is constantly exposed to dirt, microbes, irritants,
radiations and toxins which can affect the skin in many ways. Hence to protect the
skin, cleanse it and restore the tone, soothen it and prevent tanning, wrinkle and
scar formation, various preparations are used which are enlisted.
 Skin cleansers: e.g. milk, cucumber, citrus peels, aloe.
 Moisturizers: e.g. aloe-vera, almond oil, rose.
 Nourishers: e.g. honey, carrot peach wheat germ oil.
 Antiseptics: e.g. Neem, turmeric, tulsi, lavender oil
 Soothing agents (Emmolients): e.g. sesame oil, almond oil, aloe-vera
 Sunscreens: e.g. aloe-vera, chamomile, calendula, cucumber.
 Antiwrinkle and anti-aging: e.g. peach, liquorice, papaya, aloe-vera, apricot,
turmeric
 Anti-cancer: e.g. cucumber gel, vetiver
• Dry skin treatment:
– Coconut oil: Obtained from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree
Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae. Extra virgin coconut oil is tremendous
as a skin moisturizer as it acts as a humectant and holds the skin
moisturizing capability within the skin. When used for fourteen hours
coconut oil helped prevent keratin (a protein) loss from the wet combing
of hair.
– Sunflower oil: It is non-volatile oil from Helianthus annuus, family
Asteraceae. In cosmetics, it has smoothing property and is considered
non-comedogenic (Skin care product)
– Aloe Vera: A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant has spiny-
toothed leaves on the corners and red or yellow flowers. It is used as an
ingredient in many cosmetic products because it soothes, heals,
moisturizes, and softens skin. It is easy to extract and apply aloe vera gel
from its leaves. Aloe vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine
and saponin glycosides which provide cleansing action, vitamins A, C, E,
B, choline, B12 and folic acid and provide antioxidant activity and thus
stops free radical formation in skin!).
• Hair care products: Hair complexion, colour and style play an important role in
people’s physical appearance. Hair care preparations are applied topically to the
scalp and hair. These contain ingredients which either clean, condition or nourish
the hair or prevent dandruff formation. The following are the various hair care
preparations.
 Detergents: e.g. soap nut, Shikekai, reetha.
 Conditioners: e.g. henna, amla, hibiscus, rosemary, tea.
 Nourishers: e.g. Brahmi, Bringraj, eggs, coconut oil, seasame oil.
 Hair colorants: e.g. henna
 Hair growth promoters: e.g. Brahmi, amla, hibiscus, coconut oil, sesame oil.
 Antidandruff: e.g. Soap nut, shikekai, lemon, thyme, aloe Vera,
• Anti-aging treatment: To prevent appearing aging effects on skin various natural
ingredients are used and these are:
– Carrot: It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae. Carrot seed oil is used
for anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating action. It helps in reducing wrinkles and it promotes the
growth of new cells. It also acts as Natural toner for the skin.
– Ginkgo: Ginkgo comes from the Ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba belongs to family Ginkgoaceae. It is known
for strengthening the tiny little capillaries to all the organs (especially to the brain) and so it is known as
best herbal circulatory tonic. The capillaries present in many organs become widened that more oxygen is
delivered to the brain and eyes (to protect against degenerative eye diseases like macular degeneration).
– Rhodiola rosea: It is commonly known as golden root, roseroot, Aaron's rod, arctic root, king's crown,
Lignum rhodium, orpinrose. Traditional folk medicine used R. rosea to which increases physical stamina,
work efficiency, resistance to high altitude sickness, and to treat fatigue, depression, anemia, impotence,
gastrointestinal ailments, infections, and nervous system disorders 18). R. roseaisis rich in phenolic
compounds, and thus have strong antioxidant properties.
• Dandruff treatment:
– Henna: Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis,
family Lythraceae, which contain a dye molecule called
Lawsone, which when processed and extracted becomes
henna powder. It has a natural affinity with hair protein,
making it able to "stain" the colour onto the hair shaft.
– Neem: The herb Azadirachta indica, family Meliaceae has
been used as a blood purifier and beauty enhancer. Neem is
the common treatment for dandruff as it produces antifungal
and antibacterial effect; it reduces the pain and treats
dandruff.
• Skin protection:
– Green Tea: Green tea is made solely with the leaves of Camellia sinensis belonging to
family Theaceae. It is a good skin protectant. Taking green tea protects us against
cellular damage and moderates inflammation. The catechins present in green tea are
around 20 times stronger in their antioxidant potential than even vitamin E.
– Calendula: Calendula in suspension or in tincture is used topically to treat acne,
reducing inflammation, controlling bleeding and sooth irritated tissue (10). There is
"limited evidence that calendula cream or ointment is effective against radiation
dermatitis (ill.
– Turmeric: Turmeric is used to enhance the glow of skin, so used frequently by women.
Turmeric is also applied to the forehead of new born babies for their good luck.
Traditionally, Indian women rub turmeric on their face to produce a natural golden
glow. It is also used for its anti-infective and antibiotic effect.
• Hair care: Various oils derived from vegetable and mineral origins, and are used
in cosmetics. For example: almond oil, arachis oil, castor oil, olive oil, and
coconut oil and example of mineral oils are light and heavy paraffin.
– Amla: Amla is obtained from the plant Emblica officinalis, pertaining to Family
Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus,
iron and calcium which provides nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair
(12]. It is also good for eyes and skin. Hibiscus contains calcium, vitamin-BI,
phosphorus, iron, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hair
growth and prevents premature graying of hair.
– Coconut oil: The oil obtained from the dried solid part of the endospasm of the
coconut - Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae. It is white or pearl- white unctuous mass
in winter and colourless in . summer.
– Almond oil: It is obtained from Prunus dulcis belonging to family Rosaceae. It
provides nourishment, softness and strength to hair. It is also a very good cleansing
agent.
 Arachis Oil: This is a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of the Arachis hypogea belonging
to the family Leguminoseae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a faint nutty odor. It is
used in the preparation of hair oils and Brilliantines.
 Castor oil: This oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis belonging to the
family, Euphorbiaceae. It is used as an emollient, in the preparation of lipstick, hair oils,
creams and lotions.
 Eucalyptus Oil: Eucalyptus oil is the generic name for distilled oil extracted from the leaf
of Eucalyptus, a genus of the Plant family Myrtaceae. Eucalyptus oil can be used to get rid
of dandruff, which in turn can help to promote healthy growth of hair.
 Rose oil: It is the well-known essential oil, produced from the petals of Rosa damascena
and Rosa centifolia, family Rosaceae. Steam-distilled rose oil is known as "rose otto" while
the solvent extracted product is known as "rose absolute". It is commonly used in
perfumery. The key flavor compounds that contribute to the distinctive scent of rose oil are
beta-damascenone, betadamascone, beta-ionone, and oxide.
• Other cosmetic: These are used to prepare various cosmetic products like
lipsticks, nail polishes, eye products. Eg: anthocyanins, saffron, turmeric,
carotenoids, indigo, capsicum, chlorophyll.
 Perfumes: e.g. volatile oils of plants like rose, lavender, jasmine, sandalwood.
 Talcum powders: it contains talc with added plant extracts to impart the
desired flavour and odours. e.g. sandalwood, rose, jasmine, lavender etc.
• Oral care (Hygiene) products: oral care products like tooth pastes, powders,
mouth washes, mouth fresheners, etc. various herbs and their extracts are
incorporated into these preparation in order to achieve antimicrobial, antiseptic,
antiplaque, anti-inflammatory and mouth freshening properties. e.g. neem, mentha,
chamomile, sage, myrrh, nutmeg, chitosan, calendula, rosemary, etc.
• Herbal as an antioxidant: Antioxidants either synthetic or natural can be effective in
preventing free radical formation by scavenging. Now days, there is a growing interest
toward natural antioxidants of herbal resources 116). Free radical formation in the body is
controlled naturally by various helpful compounds known as antioxidants. Herbs of no
particular nutritional value can constitute an important source of antioxidants, irrespective
of fruits and vegetables [17]. The leaves from black and green tea (Camellia sinensis),
constitute an important source of possibly health-protecting antioxidants and world-wide
represent the most popular form of daily herb consumption. Examples of drug showing
antioxidant activities are:
• Tamarind: Tamarindus indica, family Fabaceae, is widely grown in tropical regions.
Tamarind seed has activity of radical scavenging, anti-microbial activities and lipid
peroxidation reducing. Its antioxidant action is suitable for anti-wrinkle cosmetics.
• Vitamin C: It avoids free radical destruction due to its property of donating free radicals. It
is beneficial inboosting immune system. The main source of Vitamin C is carrots, sweet
potatoes,lemons, peaches, oranges, broccolis etc.
• Vitamin E: Both plants and animals serve as a source of vitamin E. It has been found beneficial against
certain types of cancer & cardiac problems. It is known as "scavenger of free radicals". Vitamin E is mainly
present in almonds, nuts, whole cereal grains, vegetable oils etc. .
• Pomegranate: The pomegranate plant (Punica granatum) extract has antioxidant and antiviral properties and
is said to improve the efficiency of topical sunscreens. Pomegranate seed oil has been confirmed to show
chemo-preventive activity against skin cancer. In addition, pomegranate peel fractions may foster dermal
regeneration and pomegranate seed oil fractions may facilitate epidermal regeneration. .
• Resveratrol: This polyphenolic phytoalexin compound, existing in the skin and seeds of grapes, berries,
peanuts, and other foods, is considered a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiproliferative agent.
Resveratrol has been intended to prevent skin cancer and other diseasesbelieved to be caused by the sun.
• Ferulic Acid: Ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) is considered a potent antioxidant known to
provide photoprotection to skin from harmful sun rays as it is incorporated into sunscreens, cosmetic lotions
and other skin products. Further, it is believed to act synergistically with vitamins C and E and betacarotene
• Liquorice: Glycyrrhiza glabra extract has been used to treat skin irritation dermatitis, eczema, pruritus, and
cysts. It has a chemopreventive action because of glycyrrhizin.
Oils
• Oils are derived from vegetable and mineral sources, and are used in cosmetics.
Examples of vegetable oils are almond oil, arachis oil, castor oil, olive oil and coconut
oil. Examples of mineral oils are light and heavy paraffin.
• Almond Oil: It is a fixed oil obtained by expressing the seeds of Prunus amygdalus,
Family Rosaceae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a characteristic odour. The
active principles are mainly the mixture of glycoside with oleic acid, linoleic acid,
myristic and palmitic acid. It has an emollient action, so it is used in the preparation of
creams and lotions.
• Arachis Oil: This is also a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of the Arachis hypogea
belonging to the family Leguminoseae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a faint
nutty odour. Refined groundnut oil is colourless, with active principles like oleic,
linoleic acid and a small amount of other acids. At 3°C, it is cloudy, at a lower
temperature, it solidifies. It is used in the preparation of hair oils and brilliantines.
• Castor Oil: Oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis belonging to the
family, Euphorbiaceae. It has a slight odour; the oil is either yellow in colour or
colourless. It consists of a mixture of glycosides, in which 80% of ricinoleic acid
is the major constituent. At 0°C it forms a clear liquid. It is used as an emollient,
in the preparation of lipsticks, hair oils, creams and lotions.
• Olive Oil: This oil is obtained from the fruit of the Olea europea, belonging to the
family, Oleaceae. The oil is either pale yellow or greenish yellow in colour, it has
a slight odour. It consists of the glycerides of oleic acid, palmitic, linoleic, stearic
and myristic acids. At a lower temperature, it is solid or partly solid. It has
emollient, soothing properties. It is used in the manufacturing of creams, lotions
and bath oils.
• Coconut Oil: This oil is obtained from the dried solid part of the endosperm of
the coconut – Cocos nucifera, family Palmea. It is a white or pearl-white unctuous
mass in winter and colourless in summer.
• Light Liquid Paraffin: It consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons in the form of an
oily liquid which has no colour or odour. Viscosity and weight per ml (0.83-
0.87g) are both low in light liquid paraffin. It is used in the manufacture of bath
oils, hair oils, brilliantines, lotions and creams, due to its better spreadibility.
• Heavy Liquid Paraffin: It is composed of a mixture of hydrocarbons in the form
of a colourless and odourless oily liquid. Due to its soothing effect on the skin, it
is used in creams, lotions, brilliantines, hair oils and bath oils. Heavy liquid
paraffin is obtained from petroleum.
Waxes
• Waxes are the esters resulting from the condensation of high molecular straight chain fatty
acids with high molecular straight chain monohydric alcohol of the methanol series. They
are used in cosmetics as a base, along with oils and fats. E.g. Lipsticks. Commonly used
waxes are briefly discussed below:
• Beeswax: It is a purified wax separated from the honeycomb of bees, Apis mellifera which
belong to the Family, Apidae. Beeswax is composed of 70% ester myricyl palmitate. It is
yellowish brown in colour, solid, with a honey-like odour. Under cold conditions it becomes
brittle; when bleached, it becomes yellowish-white solid with a faint characteristic odour.
The melting point of beeswax is 62°C-65°C. Beeswax helps in the incorporation of water to
form an emulsion.
• Carnauba Wax: This is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm, Copernica
cerifera, which belongs to the Palmae family. Carnauba wax is available in various grades.
The highest grade is light-brown to pale-yellow in colour. It is in the form of moderately
coarse powder or flakes, with a characteristic bland odour. The melting range of this wax is
81°C –86°C. It is a hard wax and is used in the manufacture of candles, wax varnishes,
leather and furniture polishes.
• Paraffin Wax: It is derived by the distillation of petroleum. It is a mixture of solid
hydrocarbons consisting mainly of n-paraffins and, to some extent, their isomers. So, it
also called hard paraffin wax. Physically, the paraffin wax is colourless, odourless or a
white, translucent, wax-like solid, which is slightly greasy to touch. Paraffin wax melts at
50°C-57°C.
• Spermaceti: It is a solid wax obtained from the head, blubber and ear case of the sperm
whole, Physester colodon, which belongs to the Physeteridae family. It consists mainly of
cetyl palmitate and cetyl myristate spermaceti in a solid wax, which is a translucent
crystalline, pearly-white, unctuous mass with little odour and taste. It melts at a specific
gravity of about 0.94.
• Spermaceti is also available synthetically and is composed of a mixture of esters of
saturated fatty alcohols and saturated fatty acids. Synthetic spermaceti is available as
white to off-white translucent flakes with a crystalline structure and a pearly lustre. The
melting range of synthetic spermaceti is 43°C-47°C.
Colours
• Colours have been used in cosmetics, since time immemorial, by human beings.
Basically, the desire to buy a cosmetic product is controlled by three senses,
namely, sight, touch and smell. So colour is one of the most important ingredients
of cosmetic formulations. Colour is a visual sensation which can be caused by a
definite wavelength or a group of wavelengths by an object through one or more of
the following phenomena – emission, refection, refraction or transmission.
• Cochineal: Cochineal is a red dyestuff derived from the dried female insect,
Dactilopius coccus, which belongs to the Coccidae family. Carminic acid is the
main coloring constituent in cochineal. On crystallization, carminic acid forms red
needles and at 130°C, the needles darken and also carbonize at 250°C. For the
preparation of caramine, the cochineal is extracted with water. Alum is added to
this solution to precipitate the red aluminium salt called carmine lake.
• Saffron: It consists of the stigmas and tops of the styles of the plant, Crocus sativa, which
belongs to the Iridaceae family. It is a perennial plant grown in Jammu and Kashmir in
India. Saffron powder is yellowish and is easily soluble in water, so it is used as a flavoring
and coloring agent in food preparations.
• Saffron contains a number of carotenoids – crocin is an important natural saffron
carotenoid. Picrocrocin is a colorless bitter glycoside responsible for saffron’s characteristic
odour.
• Chlorophyll: It is the natural green pigment, found abundantly in nature. It is the
component that is responsible for photosynthesis.
• Rose: It is obtained by the steam distillation process from the flower petals of Rosmarinas
officinalis which belongs to the Labiatae family. For obtaining rose oil, the blossoms are
collected before they open, a little before sunrise.
• Jasmine Essential Oil: Obtained from the flowers of Jasminum grandiflorum which
belongs to the Oleaceae family, the oil is obtained by the solvent extraction method and its
essence is used in the perfumery industry.
• Lavender: It is obtained from the flowers and stalk of lavandula officinals which belongs
to the Labiatae family.
• Tuberose: The nickname of the tuberose is “mistress of the night”. The oil is a brown,
viscous liquid with a sweet, heavy and sensuous scent.
• Geranium: This oil is obtained from the flowers, leaves and stalks of the Pelargonium
graveolens, which belongs to the Geranigceae family. Its essence is obtained by the
distillation process, from the flowers and stems of the plant. The geranium is known as
geranium bourbon.
• Champa: It is obtained from the flowers of the Michelia champaka. The colour of the
flower is yellow to deep orange.
• Cinnamon: Cinnamon oil is obtained from the different parts of the cinnamon tree – its
leaves, bark and roots. Cinnamon zeylanicum belongs to the family, Lauraceae. The oil
obtained from the bark is most valuable. The oil has a warm, spicy and sweet character.
• Neroli: It is an essential oil obtained through the distillation process from the flower of the
bitter orange tree. It can be stored in amber-coloured bottles in the refrigerator.
Hydrophilic Colloids [Surfactants]
• Surfactants or active agents reduce the boundary tension in one or more than one
interface in the system. They also provide stability to one or more than one
interface by the formation of absorbed layers. These properties are taken advantage
of in the preparation of cosmetics. In the preparation of cosmetics, there are mainly
five uses for which surfactants are used.
 Detergency
 Wetting
 Foaming
 Emulsification
 Solubilization
• Every surfactant has a common feature – all are amphipathic molecules which
have two distinct parts:
 A hydrophobic part.
 A hydrophilic part.
• The hydrophobic part of the molecule basically consists of hydrocarbons, chain
rings or a mixture of both. On the other hand, the hydrophilic part usually consists
of a polar group, such as a carboxylic, sulphate or sulphonated group. In the case
of non-ionic surfactants, they contain a certain number of hydroxyl or ether
groups; due to this reason, they absorb at interfaces. Surfactants are of three types:
 Anionic Surfactants: fatty acid soaps
 Cationic surfactants: quaternized amides of ethylene diamine.
 Non-Ionic surfactant: fatty acid alkanolamide.
Bleaching Agents
• Mercury Compounds: Mercuric chloride (Hgcl), red mercuric oxide (HgO) and
ammoniated mercury are examples of mercury compounds that can be used, for their
skin bleaching effects. Currently, the use of mercury compounds is prohibited in
cosmetics.
• Hydroquinones: They are mostly used as bleaching agents for temporarily lighting
skin at a concentration of 1.5%–2%. In the case of 5% concentration, redness and
burning may be produced. Reverse action of hydroquinones takes place on exposure to
sunlight. If the cosmetics containing hydroquinone are discontinued, then too, a
similar effect can be observed.
• Catechol and its Derivatives: Catechol exhibits skin lighting effect to an extent. 4–
Isopropy catechol has been found to be among the most potent de-pigmenting agents.
They can produce irritation and a sensitization reaction at concentrations of 3% or
more.
• Ascorbic Acid and its Derivatives: Ascorbic acid does not seem to be very
effective as a de-pigmenting agent, but its use has been found to be safe. It is
mostly used in skin bleaching creams, which contain hydroquinone as a stabilizer
(antioxidant). Ascorbyl oleate used in skin bleaching cream for bleaching freckles
in human skin is used at a concentration of 3% and 5%.
• Oxidising Agents: Hydrogen peroxide has been used as an oxidizing agent in skin
bleach creams. Sometimes, zinc peroxide is also used in anhydrous ointments
such as bleaching agents, although the properties of zinc peroxide have been not
proved.
• Opaque Covering Agents: Various cosmetic products which contain white or
pale pigments like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talc, kaolin, bismuth etc. can
provide a temporary but remarkable change in the colour of the skin.
• Preservatives: These are the agents which are used to prevent spoilage of cosmetic products.
They are products of the oxidation of oils and fats and also the growth of microorganisms. Most
cosmetic preparations, especially those containing water are likely to deteriorate if preservatives
are not added.
• Organic Acids – Benzoic acid, Formic acid.
• Alcohols – Ethyl alcohol, Isopropyl alcohol.
• Aldehydes – Formaldehyde, Cinnamic aldehyde.
• Phenolics – Cresol, Phenol.
• Esters – Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate, Ethyl p-hydroxy benzoate.
• Mercury – Thiomersol, Nitromersol.
• Surface Active Agents – Benzalkonium chloride, Cetyl pyridinium chloride.
• Miscellaneous Compounds – Ethyl Vanillin and Vanillin.
Properties of Preservatives
 An ideal preservative must possess the following attributes:
 It should be compatible with the formulation.
 Soluble to the extent needed to achieve an effective concentration.
 Stable enough to provide a sustained antimicrobial effect.
 Colourless and odourless or nearly so.
 Non-irritant and non-allergic in the concentrations used.
Lotions and Creams
 Almond Complexion Lotion:
 Almond Oil – 1 tbsp
 Cucumber/Carrot juice – 1 tsp
 Glycerin – 2 tsp
 Liquid Paraffin – 1 tsp
 Extract of cornflower – 1 tsp
• Heat the almond oil and paraffin together and add all the ingredients to it. Shake it well, apply it and let it remain till it
dries. Wash with lukewarm water and then rinse off with cold water.
 Cucumber Cleansing Cream:
 Beeswax – 30 gm
 Spermaceti – 30 gm
 Olive Oil – 500 ml
 Cucumber Juice – ½ cup
 Sodium benzoate – 1 tsp
• Put beeswax and spermaceti in a bowl; place the bowl in an open pot filled with boiling water. After these two
substances have melted, remove the bowl from the pot. Pour olive oil and cucumber juice. Keep stirring; while the
mixture is still warm, add sodium benzoate.
• Face Scrub: Face packs which enhance the quality of nibbing or scrubbing of the
skin are called face scrubs. By scrubbing, they bring the blood to the surface of the
skin, remove dead cells, smooth and clean the skin. Scrubs eliminate the buildup of
dirt and oil on the skin surface and improve the lustre of the skin, lending it a deep
glow.
• The recipes for some face packs are given below:
• Orange Face Scrub:
• Dried orange peel [powder] – 2 tbsp
• Oatmeal – 2 tbsp
• Cold cream – 2 tbsp
• Mix all the ingredients to get a paste and apply it on the face. When it dries up
slightly, remove the pack by scrubbing. Finally, wash off with cold water. This
preparation can be used for normal skin.
 Pea Face Scrub:
 Pea powder – 4-6 tbsp
 Lemon juice – ¼ tbsp
 Rose water – 2 tbsp
• Soak the powder in rose water and lemon juice for 30 minutes. Stir it well and the
preparation is ready for use.
 Carrot Face Scrub for Oily Skin:
 Yeast powder/brewer’s yeast – 1tbsp
 Yoghurt – 1 ½ tsp
 Lemon juice – 1 tsp
 Carrot juice – 1 tsp
 Olive/Almond oil – 1 tsp
• Mix all the ingredients and blend well together. Apply this on the face for 15 minutes.
Then wash off with lukewarm water. If the skin is very oily, exclude the oil; if dry, add
more oil to it. Do not use this on the skin if you have pimples, as it may cause an
infection.
Herbal Shampoos
• Lime Shampoo
 Amla – 100 gm
 Shikakai – 200 gm
 Char – 100 gm
 Chorillo – 100 gm
 Khus – 100 gm
 Reetha – 200 gm
 Water – 2 ½ liter
 Glycerin – 8 tsp
 Lime juice – 4 tsp
 Sodium benzoate – 1 ½ tsp
• Boil the first five ingredients in the water till the mixture is reduced to half the
quantity. Strain it and add remaining ingredients.
 Neem Shampoo:
 Gram flour – 1 kg
 Sandal wood powder – 250 gm
 Neem leaves powder – 4-5 cups
 Shikakai powder – 1 kg
• Mix these thoroughly by sieving. Keep it in an airtight bottle. When needed for washing, soak 2 tbsp of it in a
cup of water, then apply.
 Saffron Hair Dye:
 Saffron – 1 pinch
 Boiling water – 500 ml
• Soak saffron in water for 10 minutes. Strain and use it on the hair. Grey hair will acquire a rich golden hue.
 Walnut Hair Dye:
 Walnut husk – 500 gm
 Water – 500 ml
• Boil husk in the water for 15 minutes, then strain and use this liquid to dye your hair. It will change the colour
of brown hair to a dark shade.

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Herbal Cosmetics in Herbal Drug Technology

  • 1. Herbal Cosmetics  The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “Kosm tikos” meaning having the power, arrange, skill in decorating. Using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal cosmetics”  Drug and Cosmetic Act. 1940: Any article or preparation intended to rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of human body for cleaning, perfuming, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as component of cosmetics.
  • 2. • Cosmetic used to perform the following action  To clean  To perfume  To change the appearance  To protect  To keep in good condition  To correct the body odor etc. • The field of application of cosmetic remains to the epidermis, hair system, nails, lips, teeth and mucous membrane of oral cavity.
  • 3. Cosmeceuticals • Cosmeceuticals is the fastest growing segment of the personal care products, these are cosmetic products which contain biologically active principles or ingredients of plant origin. There is an increased demand for the use of natural substances in cosmetics in recent years due to their mild action and non toxic in nature, in many cases they are found to be quite effective. • Cosmetic phytognosy: which deals with biochemical and physicochemical properties of plant derived ingredients to be used in cosmetics. • Cosmetic Phytognosy is a new terminology for the science of functional plant derived cosmetic ingredients • Typically there are six different types of plant derived ingredients commonly used in herbal cosmetics. These are:  Fresh materials  Dried Materials  Acellular products (oils, resins, gums)  Galenical preparations (infusions, decoctions, extracts)  Processed extracts  Pure isolated compound
  • 4.
  • 5. • Skin care products: skin is constantly exposed to dirt, microbes, irritants, radiations and toxins which can affect the skin in many ways. Hence to protect the skin, cleanse it and restore the tone, soothen it and prevent tanning, wrinkle and scar formation, various preparations are used which are enlisted.  Skin cleansers: e.g. milk, cucumber, citrus peels, aloe.  Moisturizers: e.g. aloe-vera, almond oil, rose.  Nourishers: e.g. honey, carrot peach wheat germ oil.  Antiseptics: e.g. Neem, turmeric, tulsi, lavender oil  Soothing agents (Emmolients): e.g. sesame oil, almond oil, aloe-vera  Sunscreens: e.g. aloe-vera, chamomile, calendula, cucumber.  Antiwrinkle and anti-aging: e.g. peach, liquorice, papaya, aloe-vera, apricot, turmeric  Anti-cancer: e.g. cucumber gel, vetiver
  • 6. • Dry skin treatment: – Coconut oil: Obtained from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae. Extra virgin coconut oil is tremendous as a skin moisturizer as it acts as a humectant and holds the skin moisturizing capability within the skin. When used for fourteen hours coconut oil helped prevent keratin (a protein) loss from the wet combing of hair. – Sunflower oil: It is non-volatile oil from Helianthus annuus, family Asteraceae. In cosmetics, it has smoothing property and is considered non-comedogenic (Skin care product) – Aloe Vera: A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant has spiny- toothed leaves on the corners and red or yellow flowers. It is used as an ingredient in many cosmetic products because it soothes, heals, moisturizes, and softens skin. It is easy to extract and apply aloe vera gel from its leaves. Aloe vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine and saponin glycosides which provide cleansing action, vitamins A, C, E, B, choline, B12 and folic acid and provide antioxidant activity and thus stops free radical formation in skin!).
  • 7. • Hair care products: Hair complexion, colour and style play an important role in people’s physical appearance. Hair care preparations are applied topically to the scalp and hair. These contain ingredients which either clean, condition or nourish the hair or prevent dandruff formation. The following are the various hair care preparations.  Detergents: e.g. soap nut, Shikekai, reetha.  Conditioners: e.g. henna, amla, hibiscus, rosemary, tea.  Nourishers: e.g. Brahmi, Bringraj, eggs, coconut oil, seasame oil.  Hair colorants: e.g. henna  Hair growth promoters: e.g. Brahmi, amla, hibiscus, coconut oil, sesame oil.  Antidandruff: e.g. Soap nut, shikekai, lemon, thyme, aloe Vera,
  • 8. • Anti-aging treatment: To prevent appearing aging effects on skin various natural ingredients are used and these are: – Carrot: It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae. Carrot seed oil is used for anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating action. It helps in reducing wrinkles and it promotes the growth of new cells. It also acts as Natural toner for the skin. – Ginkgo: Ginkgo comes from the Ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba belongs to family Ginkgoaceae. It is known for strengthening the tiny little capillaries to all the organs (especially to the brain) and so it is known as best herbal circulatory tonic. The capillaries present in many organs become widened that more oxygen is delivered to the brain and eyes (to protect against degenerative eye diseases like macular degeneration). – Rhodiola rosea: It is commonly known as golden root, roseroot, Aaron's rod, arctic root, king's crown, Lignum rhodium, orpinrose. Traditional folk medicine used R. rosea to which increases physical stamina, work efficiency, resistance to high altitude sickness, and to treat fatigue, depression, anemia, impotence, gastrointestinal ailments, infections, and nervous system disorders 18). R. roseaisis rich in phenolic compounds, and thus have strong antioxidant properties.
  • 9. • Dandruff treatment: – Henna: Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis, family Lythraceae, which contain a dye molecule called Lawsone, which when processed and extracted becomes henna powder. It has a natural affinity with hair protein, making it able to "stain" the colour onto the hair shaft. – Neem: The herb Azadirachta indica, family Meliaceae has been used as a blood purifier and beauty enhancer. Neem is the common treatment for dandruff as it produces antifungal and antibacterial effect; it reduces the pain and treats dandruff.
  • 10. • Skin protection: – Green Tea: Green tea is made solely with the leaves of Camellia sinensis belonging to family Theaceae. It is a good skin protectant. Taking green tea protects us against cellular damage and moderates inflammation. The catechins present in green tea are around 20 times stronger in their antioxidant potential than even vitamin E. – Calendula: Calendula in suspension or in tincture is used topically to treat acne, reducing inflammation, controlling bleeding and sooth irritated tissue (10). There is "limited evidence that calendula cream or ointment is effective against radiation dermatitis (ill. – Turmeric: Turmeric is used to enhance the glow of skin, so used frequently by women. Turmeric is also applied to the forehead of new born babies for their good luck. Traditionally, Indian women rub turmeric on their face to produce a natural golden glow. It is also used for its anti-infective and antibiotic effect.
  • 11. • Hair care: Various oils derived from vegetable and mineral origins, and are used in cosmetics. For example: almond oil, arachis oil, castor oil, olive oil, and coconut oil and example of mineral oils are light and heavy paraffin. – Amla: Amla is obtained from the plant Emblica officinalis, pertaining to Family Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium which provides nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair (12]. It is also good for eyes and skin. Hibiscus contains calcium, vitamin-BI, phosphorus, iron, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hair growth and prevents premature graying of hair. – Coconut oil: The oil obtained from the dried solid part of the endospasm of the coconut - Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae. It is white or pearl- white unctuous mass in winter and colourless in . summer. – Almond oil: It is obtained from Prunus dulcis belonging to family Rosaceae. It provides nourishment, softness and strength to hair. It is also a very good cleansing agent.
  • 12.  Arachis Oil: This is a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of the Arachis hypogea belonging to the family Leguminoseae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a faint nutty odor. It is used in the preparation of hair oils and Brilliantines.  Castor oil: This oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis belonging to the family, Euphorbiaceae. It is used as an emollient, in the preparation of lipstick, hair oils, creams and lotions.  Eucalyptus Oil: Eucalyptus oil is the generic name for distilled oil extracted from the leaf of Eucalyptus, a genus of the Plant family Myrtaceae. Eucalyptus oil can be used to get rid of dandruff, which in turn can help to promote healthy growth of hair.  Rose oil: It is the well-known essential oil, produced from the petals of Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia, family Rosaceae. Steam-distilled rose oil is known as "rose otto" while the solvent extracted product is known as "rose absolute". It is commonly used in perfumery. The key flavor compounds that contribute to the distinctive scent of rose oil are beta-damascenone, betadamascone, beta-ionone, and oxide.
  • 13. • Other cosmetic: These are used to prepare various cosmetic products like lipsticks, nail polishes, eye products. Eg: anthocyanins, saffron, turmeric, carotenoids, indigo, capsicum, chlorophyll.  Perfumes: e.g. volatile oils of plants like rose, lavender, jasmine, sandalwood.  Talcum powders: it contains talc with added plant extracts to impart the desired flavour and odours. e.g. sandalwood, rose, jasmine, lavender etc. • Oral care (Hygiene) products: oral care products like tooth pastes, powders, mouth washes, mouth fresheners, etc. various herbs and their extracts are incorporated into these preparation in order to achieve antimicrobial, antiseptic, antiplaque, anti-inflammatory and mouth freshening properties. e.g. neem, mentha, chamomile, sage, myrrh, nutmeg, chitosan, calendula, rosemary, etc.
  • 14. • Herbal as an antioxidant: Antioxidants either synthetic or natural can be effective in preventing free radical formation by scavenging. Now days, there is a growing interest toward natural antioxidants of herbal resources 116). Free radical formation in the body is controlled naturally by various helpful compounds known as antioxidants. Herbs of no particular nutritional value can constitute an important source of antioxidants, irrespective of fruits and vegetables [17]. The leaves from black and green tea (Camellia sinensis), constitute an important source of possibly health-protecting antioxidants and world-wide represent the most popular form of daily herb consumption. Examples of drug showing antioxidant activities are: • Tamarind: Tamarindus indica, family Fabaceae, is widely grown in tropical regions. Tamarind seed has activity of radical scavenging, anti-microbial activities and lipid peroxidation reducing. Its antioxidant action is suitable for anti-wrinkle cosmetics. • Vitamin C: It avoids free radical destruction due to its property of donating free radicals. It is beneficial inboosting immune system. The main source of Vitamin C is carrots, sweet potatoes,lemons, peaches, oranges, broccolis etc.
  • 15. • Vitamin E: Both plants and animals serve as a source of vitamin E. It has been found beneficial against certain types of cancer & cardiac problems. It is known as "scavenger of free radicals". Vitamin E is mainly present in almonds, nuts, whole cereal grains, vegetable oils etc. . • Pomegranate: The pomegranate plant (Punica granatum) extract has antioxidant and antiviral properties and is said to improve the efficiency of topical sunscreens. Pomegranate seed oil has been confirmed to show chemo-preventive activity against skin cancer. In addition, pomegranate peel fractions may foster dermal regeneration and pomegranate seed oil fractions may facilitate epidermal regeneration. . • Resveratrol: This polyphenolic phytoalexin compound, existing in the skin and seeds of grapes, berries, peanuts, and other foods, is considered a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiproliferative agent. Resveratrol has been intended to prevent skin cancer and other diseasesbelieved to be caused by the sun. • Ferulic Acid: Ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) is considered a potent antioxidant known to provide photoprotection to skin from harmful sun rays as it is incorporated into sunscreens, cosmetic lotions and other skin products. Further, it is believed to act synergistically with vitamins C and E and betacarotene • Liquorice: Glycyrrhiza glabra extract has been used to treat skin irritation dermatitis, eczema, pruritus, and cysts. It has a chemopreventive action because of glycyrrhizin.
  • 16.
  • 17. Oils • Oils are derived from vegetable and mineral sources, and are used in cosmetics. Examples of vegetable oils are almond oil, arachis oil, castor oil, olive oil and coconut oil. Examples of mineral oils are light and heavy paraffin. • Almond Oil: It is a fixed oil obtained by expressing the seeds of Prunus amygdalus, Family Rosaceae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a characteristic odour. The active principles are mainly the mixture of glycoside with oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic and palmitic acid. It has an emollient action, so it is used in the preparation of creams and lotions. • Arachis Oil: This is also a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of the Arachis hypogea belonging to the family Leguminoseae. The oil is pale yellow in colour, with a faint nutty odour. Refined groundnut oil is colourless, with active principles like oleic, linoleic acid and a small amount of other acids. At 3°C, it is cloudy, at a lower temperature, it solidifies. It is used in the preparation of hair oils and brilliantines.
  • 18. • Castor Oil: Oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis belonging to the family, Euphorbiaceae. It has a slight odour; the oil is either yellow in colour or colourless. It consists of a mixture of glycosides, in which 80% of ricinoleic acid is the major constituent. At 0°C it forms a clear liquid. It is used as an emollient, in the preparation of lipsticks, hair oils, creams and lotions. • Olive Oil: This oil is obtained from the fruit of the Olea europea, belonging to the family, Oleaceae. The oil is either pale yellow or greenish yellow in colour, it has a slight odour. It consists of the glycerides of oleic acid, palmitic, linoleic, stearic and myristic acids. At a lower temperature, it is solid or partly solid. It has emollient, soothing properties. It is used in the manufacturing of creams, lotions and bath oils. • Coconut Oil: This oil is obtained from the dried solid part of the endosperm of the coconut – Cocos nucifera, family Palmea. It is a white or pearl-white unctuous mass in winter and colourless in summer.
  • 19. • Light Liquid Paraffin: It consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons in the form of an oily liquid which has no colour or odour. Viscosity and weight per ml (0.83- 0.87g) are both low in light liquid paraffin. It is used in the manufacture of bath oils, hair oils, brilliantines, lotions and creams, due to its better spreadibility. • Heavy Liquid Paraffin: It is composed of a mixture of hydrocarbons in the form of a colourless and odourless oily liquid. Due to its soothing effect on the skin, it is used in creams, lotions, brilliantines, hair oils and bath oils. Heavy liquid paraffin is obtained from petroleum.
  • 20. Waxes • Waxes are the esters resulting from the condensation of high molecular straight chain fatty acids with high molecular straight chain monohydric alcohol of the methanol series. They are used in cosmetics as a base, along with oils and fats. E.g. Lipsticks. Commonly used waxes are briefly discussed below: • Beeswax: It is a purified wax separated from the honeycomb of bees, Apis mellifera which belong to the Family, Apidae. Beeswax is composed of 70% ester myricyl palmitate. It is yellowish brown in colour, solid, with a honey-like odour. Under cold conditions it becomes brittle; when bleached, it becomes yellowish-white solid with a faint characteristic odour. The melting point of beeswax is 62°C-65°C. Beeswax helps in the incorporation of water to form an emulsion. • Carnauba Wax: This is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm, Copernica cerifera, which belongs to the Palmae family. Carnauba wax is available in various grades. The highest grade is light-brown to pale-yellow in colour. It is in the form of moderately coarse powder or flakes, with a characteristic bland odour. The melting range of this wax is 81°C –86°C. It is a hard wax and is used in the manufacture of candles, wax varnishes, leather and furniture polishes.
  • 21. • Paraffin Wax: It is derived by the distillation of petroleum. It is a mixture of solid hydrocarbons consisting mainly of n-paraffins and, to some extent, their isomers. So, it also called hard paraffin wax. Physically, the paraffin wax is colourless, odourless or a white, translucent, wax-like solid, which is slightly greasy to touch. Paraffin wax melts at 50°C-57°C. • Spermaceti: It is a solid wax obtained from the head, blubber and ear case of the sperm whole, Physester colodon, which belongs to the Physeteridae family. It consists mainly of cetyl palmitate and cetyl myristate spermaceti in a solid wax, which is a translucent crystalline, pearly-white, unctuous mass with little odour and taste. It melts at a specific gravity of about 0.94. • Spermaceti is also available synthetically and is composed of a mixture of esters of saturated fatty alcohols and saturated fatty acids. Synthetic spermaceti is available as white to off-white translucent flakes with a crystalline structure and a pearly lustre. The melting range of synthetic spermaceti is 43°C-47°C.
  • 22. Colours • Colours have been used in cosmetics, since time immemorial, by human beings. Basically, the desire to buy a cosmetic product is controlled by three senses, namely, sight, touch and smell. So colour is one of the most important ingredients of cosmetic formulations. Colour is a visual sensation which can be caused by a definite wavelength or a group of wavelengths by an object through one or more of the following phenomena – emission, refection, refraction or transmission. • Cochineal: Cochineal is a red dyestuff derived from the dried female insect, Dactilopius coccus, which belongs to the Coccidae family. Carminic acid is the main coloring constituent in cochineal. On crystallization, carminic acid forms red needles and at 130°C, the needles darken and also carbonize at 250°C. For the preparation of caramine, the cochineal is extracted with water. Alum is added to this solution to precipitate the red aluminium salt called carmine lake.
  • 23. • Saffron: It consists of the stigmas and tops of the styles of the plant, Crocus sativa, which belongs to the Iridaceae family. It is a perennial plant grown in Jammu and Kashmir in India. Saffron powder is yellowish and is easily soluble in water, so it is used as a flavoring and coloring agent in food preparations. • Saffron contains a number of carotenoids – crocin is an important natural saffron carotenoid. Picrocrocin is a colorless bitter glycoside responsible for saffron’s characteristic odour. • Chlorophyll: It is the natural green pigment, found abundantly in nature. It is the component that is responsible for photosynthesis. • Rose: It is obtained by the steam distillation process from the flower petals of Rosmarinas officinalis which belongs to the Labiatae family. For obtaining rose oil, the blossoms are collected before they open, a little before sunrise. • Jasmine Essential Oil: Obtained from the flowers of Jasminum grandiflorum which belongs to the Oleaceae family, the oil is obtained by the solvent extraction method and its essence is used in the perfumery industry.
  • 24. • Lavender: It is obtained from the flowers and stalk of lavandula officinals which belongs to the Labiatae family. • Tuberose: The nickname of the tuberose is “mistress of the night”. The oil is a brown, viscous liquid with a sweet, heavy and sensuous scent. • Geranium: This oil is obtained from the flowers, leaves and stalks of the Pelargonium graveolens, which belongs to the Geranigceae family. Its essence is obtained by the distillation process, from the flowers and stems of the plant. The geranium is known as geranium bourbon. • Champa: It is obtained from the flowers of the Michelia champaka. The colour of the flower is yellow to deep orange. • Cinnamon: Cinnamon oil is obtained from the different parts of the cinnamon tree – its leaves, bark and roots. Cinnamon zeylanicum belongs to the family, Lauraceae. The oil obtained from the bark is most valuable. The oil has a warm, spicy and sweet character. • Neroli: It is an essential oil obtained through the distillation process from the flower of the bitter orange tree. It can be stored in amber-coloured bottles in the refrigerator.
  • 25. Hydrophilic Colloids [Surfactants] • Surfactants or active agents reduce the boundary tension in one or more than one interface in the system. They also provide stability to one or more than one interface by the formation of absorbed layers. These properties are taken advantage of in the preparation of cosmetics. In the preparation of cosmetics, there are mainly five uses for which surfactants are used.  Detergency  Wetting  Foaming  Emulsification  Solubilization
  • 26. • Every surfactant has a common feature – all are amphipathic molecules which have two distinct parts:  A hydrophobic part.  A hydrophilic part. • The hydrophobic part of the molecule basically consists of hydrocarbons, chain rings or a mixture of both. On the other hand, the hydrophilic part usually consists of a polar group, such as a carboxylic, sulphate or sulphonated group. In the case of non-ionic surfactants, they contain a certain number of hydroxyl or ether groups; due to this reason, they absorb at interfaces. Surfactants are of three types:  Anionic Surfactants: fatty acid soaps  Cationic surfactants: quaternized amides of ethylene diamine.  Non-Ionic surfactant: fatty acid alkanolamide.
  • 27. Bleaching Agents • Mercury Compounds: Mercuric chloride (Hgcl), red mercuric oxide (HgO) and ammoniated mercury are examples of mercury compounds that can be used, for their skin bleaching effects. Currently, the use of mercury compounds is prohibited in cosmetics. • Hydroquinones: They are mostly used as bleaching agents for temporarily lighting skin at a concentration of 1.5%–2%. In the case of 5% concentration, redness and burning may be produced. Reverse action of hydroquinones takes place on exposure to sunlight. If the cosmetics containing hydroquinone are discontinued, then too, a similar effect can be observed. • Catechol and its Derivatives: Catechol exhibits skin lighting effect to an extent. 4– Isopropy catechol has been found to be among the most potent de-pigmenting agents. They can produce irritation and a sensitization reaction at concentrations of 3% or more.
  • 28. • Ascorbic Acid and its Derivatives: Ascorbic acid does not seem to be very effective as a de-pigmenting agent, but its use has been found to be safe. It is mostly used in skin bleaching creams, which contain hydroquinone as a stabilizer (antioxidant). Ascorbyl oleate used in skin bleaching cream for bleaching freckles in human skin is used at a concentration of 3% and 5%. • Oxidising Agents: Hydrogen peroxide has been used as an oxidizing agent in skin bleach creams. Sometimes, zinc peroxide is also used in anhydrous ointments such as bleaching agents, although the properties of zinc peroxide have been not proved. • Opaque Covering Agents: Various cosmetic products which contain white or pale pigments like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talc, kaolin, bismuth etc. can provide a temporary but remarkable change in the colour of the skin.
  • 29. • Preservatives: These are the agents which are used to prevent spoilage of cosmetic products. They are products of the oxidation of oils and fats and also the growth of microorganisms. Most cosmetic preparations, especially those containing water are likely to deteriorate if preservatives are not added. • Organic Acids – Benzoic acid, Formic acid. • Alcohols – Ethyl alcohol, Isopropyl alcohol. • Aldehydes – Formaldehyde, Cinnamic aldehyde. • Phenolics – Cresol, Phenol. • Esters – Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate, Ethyl p-hydroxy benzoate. • Mercury – Thiomersol, Nitromersol. • Surface Active Agents – Benzalkonium chloride, Cetyl pyridinium chloride. • Miscellaneous Compounds – Ethyl Vanillin and Vanillin.
  • 30. Properties of Preservatives  An ideal preservative must possess the following attributes:  It should be compatible with the formulation.  Soluble to the extent needed to achieve an effective concentration.  Stable enough to provide a sustained antimicrobial effect.  Colourless and odourless or nearly so.  Non-irritant and non-allergic in the concentrations used.
  • 31.
  • 32. Lotions and Creams  Almond Complexion Lotion:  Almond Oil – 1 tbsp  Cucumber/Carrot juice – 1 tsp  Glycerin – 2 tsp  Liquid Paraffin – 1 tsp  Extract of cornflower – 1 tsp • Heat the almond oil and paraffin together and add all the ingredients to it. Shake it well, apply it and let it remain till it dries. Wash with lukewarm water and then rinse off with cold water.  Cucumber Cleansing Cream:  Beeswax – 30 gm  Spermaceti – 30 gm  Olive Oil – 500 ml  Cucumber Juice – ½ cup  Sodium benzoate – 1 tsp • Put beeswax and spermaceti in a bowl; place the bowl in an open pot filled with boiling water. After these two substances have melted, remove the bowl from the pot. Pour olive oil and cucumber juice. Keep stirring; while the mixture is still warm, add sodium benzoate.
  • 33. • Face Scrub: Face packs which enhance the quality of nibbing or scrubbing of the skin are called face scrubs. By scrubbing, they bring the blood to the surface of the skin, remove dead cells, smooth and clean the skin. Scrubs eliminate the buildup of dirt and oil on the skin surface and improve the lustre of the skin, lending it a deep glow. • The recipes for some face packs are given below: • Orange Face Scrub: • Dried orange peel [powder] – 2 tbsp • Oatmeal – 2 tbsp • Cold cream – 2 tbsp • Mix all the ingredients to get a paste and apply it on the face. When it dries up slightly, remove the pack by scrubbing. Finally, wash off with cold water. This preparation can be used for normal skin.
  • 34.  Pea Face Scrub:  Pea powder – 4-6 tbsp  Lemon juice – ¼ tbsp  Rose water – 2 tbsp • Soak the powder in rose water and lemon juice for 30 minutes. Stir it well and the preparation is ready for use.  Carrot Face Scrub for Oily Skin:  Yeast powder/brewer’s yeast – 1tbsp  Yoghurt – 1 ½ tsp  Lemon juice – 1 tsp  Carrot juice – 1 tsp  Olive/Almond oil – 1 tsp • Mix all the ingredients and blend well together. Apply this on the face for 15 minutes. Then wash off with lukewarm water. If the skin is very oily, exclude the oil; if dry, add more oil to it. Do not use this on the skin if you have pimples, as it may cause an infection.
  • 35. Herbal Shampoos • Lime Shampoo  Amla – 100 gm  Shikakai – 200 gm  Char – 100 gm  Chorillo – 100 gm  Khus – 100 gm  Reetha – 200 gm  Water – 2 ½ liter  Glycerin – 8 tsp  Lime juice – 4 tsp  Sodium benzoate – 1 ½ tsp • Boil the first five ingredients in the water till the mixture is reduced to half the quantity. Strain it and add remaining ingredients.
  • 36.  Neem Shampoo:  Gram flour – 1 kg  Sandal wood powder – 250 gm  Neem leaves powder – 4-5 cups  Shikakai powder – 1 kg • Mix these thoroughly by sieving. Keep it in an airtight bottle. When needed for washing, soak 2 tbsp of it in a cup of water, then apply.  Saffron Hair Dye:  Saffron – 1 pinch  Boiling water – 500 ml • Soak saffron in water for 10 minutes. Strain and use it on the hair. Grey hair will acquire a rich golden hue.  Walnut Hair Dye:  Walnut husk – 500 gm  Water – 500 ml • Boil husk in the water for 15 minutes, then strain and use this liquid to dye your hair. It will change the colour of brown hair to a dark shade.