1. Turmeric and aloe vera are commonly used herbs in cosmetic products due to their skin benefits. Turmeric contains curcumin which is a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial compound. Aloe vera gel soothes skin and promotes wound healing.
2. Sunscreens work by absorbing or reflecting UV rays to protect skin from sun damage. They are classified into different SPF levels depending on the percentage of UV rays blocked. Higher SPF blocks more rays but all allow some transmission.
3. Factors like skin type and sensitivity determine the appropriate SPF level for individuals. Very sensitive skin types require higher SPF sunscreens while less sensitive skin can use lower SPF. Her
2. • Sun protection,
• Classification of Sunscreens and SPF.
• Role of herbs in cosmetics:
• Skin Care: Aloe and turmeric
• Hair care: Henna and amla.
• Oral care: Neem and clove
• Analytical cosmetics: BIS specification and analytical methods for
shampoo, skin-cream and toothpaste.
3. Sunscreen
• Sunscreen, also known as sunblock or suntan lotion, is a photoprotective
topical product for the skin that absorbs or reflects some of the sun's
ultraviolet (UV) radiation and thus helps protect against sunburn and most
importantly prevent skin cancer.
• Sunscreens come as lotions, sprays, gels, foams (such as an expanded foam
lotion or whipped lotion), sticks, powders and other topical products.
• Sunscreens are common supplements to clothing, particularly sunglasses,
sunhats and special sun protective clothing, and other forms of
photoprotection (e.g. umbrellas, etc.).
4. Skin Types And Choice Of Sunscreen
• A Sunscreen product protects different individuals to the different extent.
• This depends on the skin type.
• US FDA classification system for sunscreens product comprise of 5
product category designations ( PCD).
• And depending upon skin type and tanning history classified into 6 groups
5. 1. Always burns easily and never tans (i.e sensitive)
2. Always burns and tans minimally (i.e sensitive)
3. Burns moderately and tans gradually to a shade of light brown ( i.e
normal)
4. Burns minimally and always tans well (i.e normal)
5. Barely burns and tans profusely – skin become dark brown (i.e
insensitive)
6. Never burn and skin becomes deeply pigmented (i.e insensitive)
6. Product Category Designations ( PCD)
PCD -1 Minimal sun
protection product
SPF Value of 2-4. it provides least protection but
permits sun tanning
PCD -2 Moderate sun
protection product
SPF Value of 4-6. it provides Moderate protection
but some tanning
PCD -3 Extra sun
protection product
SPF Value of 6-8. it provides extra protection but
permits sun tanning
PCD -4 Maximal sun
protection product
SPF Value of 8-15. it provides maximal protection
but permits little or no sun tanning
PCD -5 Ultra sun
protection product
SPF Value of 15 or more. it provides greater
protection but permits no sun tanning
7. Types of the skin and SPF
Skin type SPF
I 8 OR more
II 6-7
III 4-5
IV 2-3
V 2
VI Non indicated
8. SPF
• The SPF has been defined as the ratio between the UV exposure required
to produce a minimally perceptible erythema on protected skin and the
exposure that will produced the same erythema on unprotected skin.
• Formal definition of SPF
SPF Value
𝑀𝐸𝐷 (𝑃𝑆)
𝑀𝐸𝐷 𝑈𝑆
9. SPF
Where,
MED (PS) = minimum erythemal dose for protected skin after the
application of 2 mg/cm2 or 2µl/cm2 of the final formulation of the sunscreen
product.
MED (US) = minimum erythemal dose for unprotected skin i.e skin which
no sunscreen product has been applied.
10. • SPF no on a package can rang from low to high.
• These no refer to the products ability to screen or block out the suns burning rays.
• E.g “ SPF 15” means that 1/15 th of burning radiation reach the skin through the
recommended thickness of sunscreen.
• SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays
• SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays
• SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays
11. SPF
• The harmful effects of solar radiation are caused predominantly by the UV
region of the electromagnetic spectrum which can be divided into three
regions
1. Far – UV and UVC regions – (100-200 nm)
2. UVC – (200-800 nm)
3. UVB – (280-320 nm)
4. UVA- (320-400 nm)
12. Function
• Sunscreens are photochemical systems containing UV- filters which
absorb/scatter/reflect solar UV to protect the skin from harmful radiation
• 17 active sunscreen ingredients are approved by the FDA and compared
with 34 Australia and 28 EU
Products
• Well tolerated
• Cosmetically pleasant
• Non toxic
• Equally effective against UVA & UVB
• Photostable
• Water resistant
• With high SPF
13. Mechanism of action
Chemical sunscreens
• Absorb UVR
• Enjoy much wider acceptances,
being cosmetically invisible
• Examples oxybenzone, octinoxate
Physical sunscreens
• Reflect and or scatter UVR
• Generally messy and opaque
compound
• Examples titanium dioxide, zinc
oxide, talc, starch
18. Role of herbs in cosmetics
• Herbs are generally defined as non-woody plants, which die after
blooming. This definition has been expanded to any of the plants of which
part or whole can be used in medicinal treatments, culinary preparations
(as seasonings), nutritional supplementation, or used as a colouring or
cosmetic agent.
• Herbal Cosmetics as products are formulated, using various permissible
cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal
ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be
called as “Herbal Cosmetics”.
19. Advantages of herbal cosmetics
1. Natural products : herbal cosmetics are natural and free from all synthetic
chemical. E.g aloe vera
2. Safe to use : compared to other beauty products natural cosmetics are
safe to use.
3. Compatible with all skin types
4. Wide selection to choose from
5. Inexpensive
6. No side effects
20. Disadvantages Of Herbal Cosmetics
• Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosage form.
Also it requires long term therapy.
• They are difficult to hide taste and odor.
• Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated
21. Skin Care: Aloe and Turmeric
TYPES OF HERBAL SKIN CARE PRODUCTS :
1. Cleansing agent: which remove the dust, dead cells and dirt that chokes
the pores on the skin. Some of the common cleansers include vegetable
oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil.
2. Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it from being
exposed to many of the toxins that are floating in the air or other
environmental pollutants. Some of the herbs used as toners are witch
hazel, geranium, sage, lemon, ivy burdock and essential oils.
3. Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become soft and
supple. Moisturizing shows a healthy glow and are less prone to aging .
Some of the herbal moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol, rose
water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and iris
22. Herbs used for skin care
Plant name Chemical constituents use
Aloe vera
(Ghritkumari)
Alovin, Vit A, B, C, E,
barbaloin, amino acid
Moisturizing, soothing and
cooling action
Cinnamon
(dalchini)
Eugenol, mannitol,
cinnamaldehde,cuminaldehyde
Astriengent, stimulating and
cooling
Eucalyptus (lemon
gum tree)
Eucalyptol, camhene, pinene Cleanising and antiseptic
Neem (margosa) Nimbin, Nimbinene,beta
sitosterol
Antiseptic,anctibacterial,
antifugal
Rose (rosette) Essential oil,quercitin Cleansing, smoothening and
flavouring agent
23. Marketed cosmetic preparations containing
herbs
Name of plants Action Marketed preparation
aloe Vera Smoothing moisture, softness
on skin
Himalaya herbals (Face wash)
Lotus (Moisturising gel)
Alpha- hydroxy
acid (AHA)
Exfoliates and improve
circulation
Himalaya , garnier,olay
Beta hydroxy
acid (BHA)
Anti bacterial paulas
Cucumber cools Refreshes and tightens pores Eminecee eye makeup remover
Turmeric anti-inflammatory,
antimicrobial, and
antioxidant ,
Vicco cream, him herbal
24. Aloe Vera
• Aloes is a genus containing over 500 species of flowering succulent
plants(store water in their enlarged fleshy leaves, stems or roots).
• The most widely known species is Aloe Vera or “True aloe”, so called
because it is cultivated as the standard source for Medicinal and
Pharmaceutical purposes.
• Other species, such as Aloe ferox also cultivated for similar applications.
25. Biological source:
Aloes is obtained from the dried juice of the leaves of
• Aloe barbadensis Miller, known as Curacao aloes, (Aloe Vera).
• Aloe perryi Baker, known as Socotrine aloes.
• Aloe ferox Miller and hybrids of this species with Aloe africana Miller and
Aloe spicata Baker, known as Cape aloes, belonging to family Liliaceae.
• Family: Asphodelaceae (In past, it has been assigned to broadly
circumscribed family Liliaceae)
• Synonyms: Aloe, Musabbar, Lolesara(in kannada).
26. Geographical source:
• Aloes is the indigeneous to eastern and southern Africa and grown in Cape
colony, Zanzibar and islands of Socotra. It is also cultivated in Caribbean
islands, Europe and many parts of India, including North West Himalayan
region.
27. Chemical constituents:
• Anthracene glycosides(11 to 40%).
• Barbaloin or Aloin, a C glycoside (not easily hydrolysable with dil. Acids
and linkage between the sugar and the aglycone is through C-C).
• Isobarbaloin, aloe-emodin and aloesone.
• Aloinosides A and B (only in Cape aloes).
• Resins (resinotannol +cinnamic acid or coumaric acid).
• Also contains Aloetic acid, homonataloin etc.
28. Aloe vera benefits for skin
1. Soothes sunburns: Polysaccharides present in natural aloe vera gel helps to promote
skin repair and wound healing. Due to its anti-inflammatory properties it can help to
heal mild to moderate sunburns when applied topically.
2. Relieves skin irritation: It’s gel for skin provides cooling effects that help to soothe
the redness, infection and rash.
3. Moisturizes the skin: Its gel contains water in abundance thus it hydrates the skin
without causing greasy feeling.
4. Fights acne and fades blemishes: The salicylic acid present in its gel helps to unclog
the pores. It also assists in eliminating the scars and fading the blemishes.
5. Slow down the ageing signs: As we age our skin starts to lose its elasticity, which
leads to skin sagging and wrinkles. Topical aloe vera gel use helps to retain the
moisture and decreases the visible fine lines and wrinkles. It enhances the skin
elasticity.
30. Turmeric
• The Indian Solid Gold
• Curcumin is extracted from turmeric which is derived from rhizome of the
plant Curcuma longa
• Curcuminoids give turmeric its characteristic yellow color
• Curcumin is an orange-yellow crystalline powder which is the most active
component of turmeric, which makes up 2-5% of the spice
• Curcumin has been shown to be a diferuloylmethane
• It is hydrophobic in nature and is soluble in dimethylsulfoxide, acetone,
ethanol and oils
• It is also referred to as Indian saffron, yellow ginger, yellow root, kacha
haldi, ukon or natural yellow
31. Turmeric
• Synonyms Saffron Indian; Haldi ;
Curcuma; Yellow ginger.
• Biological Source Turmeric is the
dried rhizome of Curcuma longa
Linn. belonging to family
Zingiberaceae.
• Geographical Source The plant is a
native to southern Asia and is
cultivated extensively in temperate
regions. It is grown on a larger
scale in India, China, East Indies
and Pakistan.
32. What Is Tumeric?
• Turmeric, also identified as Curcuma Longa, is an Ayurvedic skincare
remedy used for over 4000 years now. It is considered as the holy powder
for its medicinal value. The critical antioxidant Curcumin in Turmeric has
many researched-backed and time-tested benefits. Curcumin is also the
compound that gives Turmeric its signature yellow-orange tinge.
• Turmeric powder, coined as the most potent spice of all, is made from the
roots of Curcuma zedoaria - native to Southeast Asia. Its list of healing
properties includes antiviral, anti-fungal, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-
carcinogenic, anti-inflammatory, anti-mutagenic, and much more.
• Ayurveda uses Turmeric to balance Vata, Pitta, and Kapha (though it can
aggravate Vata and pitta when taken in excess). It is very beneficial for
rasa and rakta dhatus - the blood and plasma of the circulatory system.
33. Chemical Constituents
1. Curcumin
2. Curcuminiods
3. Cymene
4. Tumeron
5. Isdemethoxycurcumin
6. Demethoxycurcumin
7. Diaryl heptanoids
Medicinal Uses
1. to treat arthritis
2. As an antioxidant Use
3. Used for cancer treatment
4. Improve the liver function
5. cardiovascular protection
6. Use for headache lung
infections,
7. menstrual problem
8. Other uses include Alzheimer”s
disease ,depression , worms and
kidney problems
34. Benefits of Turmeric for Skin
1. Turmeric For Skin Whitening
• Turmeric is considered one of the most crucial skin whitening ingredients in
Ayurveda. It is known to reduce dark patches and even out the skin tone. This is
why Hindu weddings follow the tradition of applying Haldi all over the bride’s
skin.
•
These results are because of the powerful antioxidants and anti-inflammatory
compounds in Turmeric blending to bring out the skin’s natural health. A recently
conducted study showed that using turmeric based lotion can brighten the skin
within just three weeks.
2. Turmeric For Glowing Skin
• Who doesn’t like to have a naturally glowing skin? However, the environmental
pollution and day-to-day stressors can leave your skin feeling dull. Does your
skin lack glow and luster? Turmeric to the rescue. The anti-inflammatory and
antioxidants present in it will help in reviving your skin by bringing out its natural
glow.
35. 3. Turmeric To Treat Acne
• Acne is one of the most common issues every individual faces at least once in their
lifetime. Over-the-counter medicines, skin treatments, or skincare products might
cause inflammation or irritation to your skin. So, your safest bet can be natural or
ayurvedic ingredients.
• Turmeric is one of the miracle spices that fight acne. The antiseptic and anti-
inflammatory properties of turmeric help in keeping the bacteria from spreading
further. It reduces the redness and swelling of the blemish.
4. Turmeric To Banish Dark Circles
• The primary reasons behind dark circles are hereditary, lack of sleep, pigmentation,
over-exposure to the sun, or even rubbing or scratching the eyes.
• Turmeric, being a lightning and anti-inflammatory agent, helps in reducing the
appearance of dark circles. It also stimulates blood circulation, which in turn helps in
reducing puffiness
36. 5. Turmeric Moisturizes Dry Skin
• Dryness makes your skin look dehydrated and dull. This dryness could be even
worse during the winter months. Apart from using rich body lotion throughout the
day, it is also very important to give your skin extra care.
• Did you know turmeric can alleviate symptoms of dryness? This magic ingredient
nourishes the skin, deeply hydrates, and speeds up the process of removing dead
cells from the skin. Treat yourself with a turmeric-infused mask to soften and
hydrate your skin.
6. Turmeric For Preventing Early Signs Of Aging
• Turmeric protects the skin from the harsh UV rays, the number one cause of
premature aging. When the natural oils are depleted from the skin, they tend to
lose their elasticity and start showing wrinkles and fine lines. Premature aging
first begins on the neck, forehead, and the area around the eye.
•
The potent antioxidant properties of curcumin prevent free radical production,
which in turn helps in controlling aging. These antioxidants also protect the skin
cells from damage.
37. 7. Turmeric For Reducing The Appearance Of Stretch Marks
• Stretch marks on your stomach, arms, or legs can be very difficult to treat,
but turmeric will help lighten them. The antioxidants in Turmeric penetrate
into skin and improve the function of the membrane cells. This process
helps in lightening the appearance of stretch marks.
39. Herbal Cosmetic for hair care
• A number of herbal plants are utilized in hair care formulation.
• The herbal plants which are used in hair care formulations can be
classified in following groups
1. Plant use as hair cleanser
2. Plant use as hair dyeing agent
3. Plant use as hair antidandruff agent
4. Plant use as hair tonic/hair nourisher
40.
41. Hair care: Henna and amla.
1. Henna
• Henna is consist of dried leaves of Lawsonia inermis belonging to family
Lythraceae
• It is cultivated as garden plant throughout the India.
• The henna plant is native to northern Africa, Asia and northern Australia, in
semi-arid zones and tropical areas.
• It produces the most dye when grown in temperatures between 35 and
45 °C
• Flowers are numerous, small with rose coloured fragrance.
42. Chemical Constituents
• The leaves contains soluble matter Lawsone.
• Gallic acid, glucose,mannitol,fat, resin (2%), mucilage and traces of an
alkaloid.
• This quinone dissolves in alkaline solution to give an intense red colour.
• Henna leaf also contains flavonoids, coumarins and xanthones.
43. Cosmetic Use
• It is used in cosmetic preparation in many ways as colouring and cosmetic
ingredients.
• It has been used as a hair colour, nail colour and decoration purpose.
• The drug is widely used in cosmetology for its dyeing properties due to
strong binding property of lawsone to hairs.
• It is also used in the form of shampoo and hair lotions.
• Henna is used in ayurvedic preparation for the treatment of skin ailments,
burns and wounds.
44. Henna use as hair cosmetic
• Making hair stronger.
• Increasing the hair volume.
• Resistance to hair break
• Reduction in split ends of hair
• Regular dye
• Antifungal and antibiotic
46. 2. Amla
• Name of the drug: Amla
• Synonym: Amlang (Ar.), Amlaki (B.), Ambala (G.), Amalica (H.), Aunla
(Or.), Nellikai (Tm.)
• Biological Source: This is consists of dried, as well as fresh fruits pericarp
of the plant Emblica officinalis Gaerth Phyllanthus emblica Linn.
Belonging to family Euphobiaceae. It contains not less than 1.0% w/w of
Gallic acid calculated on dry basis.
47. Geographical distribution:
• Asia-Temperate
• China – Fujian ,Guangdong, Jiangxi, Yunnan
• Eastern Asia – Taiwan
• Asia-Tropical
• Indian subcontinent: Bangladesh; Bhutan; India- mainly in Andhra
Pradesh, Assam, Bihar, Gujarat, Punjab, west-Bengal, Tripura, Karnataka,
Tamilnaru , some other state also; Nepal; Pakistan; Srilanka; Indo-
china: Cambodia; Laos; Thailand; Vietnam;
• Malesia- Indonesia- Java, Kalimantan, Sumatra; Malaysia
49. USES
• Fresh amla: These are available in season in Indian stores. You can eat amla
slices raw with salt and spices, like in India or you can mix a teaspoon of honey.
Honey balances the tart taste of amla.
• Dried amla: Dried amla fruit can be chewed on. But be aware that they may have
a lot of sugar added to it. In India, the candied pickle is called amla murabba.
• Amla powder: Organic versions are available in the market and can be mixed
with water, honey, or yogurt to be made into a hair or face mask.
• Amla oil: This oil helps to strengthen the hair, prevents premature greying and
stops hair fall.
• Amla juice: Taking amla juice diluted with water early in the morning on an
empty stomach helps keep the digestive system healthy and aids in managing
blood sugar levels.
50. Oral care: Neem and clove
Neem
• Azadirachta indica, commonly known as neem, has attracted worldwide
prominence in recent years, owing to its wide range of medicinal
properties.
• Neem has been extensively used in ayurveda, Unani and homeopathic
medicine and has become a cynosure of modern medicine.
• The medicinal utilities have been described especially for neem leaf.
51. • Family : Meliaceae
• Others name :Nimba, Aristha(sanskrit)
• Biological Source:
• Neem consists of the fresh or dried leaves and seed oil of Azadirachta
indica.
• Habitat: It grows mostly in the tropical and semi tropical regions as a wild
plant. It is generally found below 3500m altitude. The tree is native to
India, Nepal, Bangladesh and Pakistan, also found in Malaysia and China.
• It May reach up to 50 feet tall. It may grow at minimum rate of 18 inches
per year where rate of rainfall is low.
• It starts flowering from 3rd to 5th year.
52. Chemical constituents
• Various parts of plant is used for various therapeutic and commercial
purposes due to presence of different types of chemicals in different parts
of this plant.
• Some of them being :
• leafs: quercetin, nimbosterol, nimbin.
• Flowers: nimbosterol, kaempferol, melicitrin.
• Bark: nimbin, nimbidin, nombosterol, margosine.
• Seed: azadirachtin, azadiradione, nimbin, vepinin, vilasinin, fraxinellone.
54. Traditional uses
• Neem is known to have antipyretic properties and it has been used
traditionally for a long time to lower high fever.
• An extract obtained from the leaves or bark has both antibacterial and
antiviral effect, with little or no toxicity.
• The extract has been used internally as a treatment for asthma, sore throat,
tuberculosis, eczema, jaundice, stomach ulcers, diabetes, arthritis, and
rheumatism.
55. Formulations
• NATURE NEEM OIL(100% cold pressed pure neem oil): Nature Neem oil
is used in the preparation of bio pesticides and insecticide and effective
against a number of insecticide-resistant pest and doesn’t harm the
beneficial insects.
• TOTAL CARE (neem oil water soluble): neem oil for pesticidal
applications. • NUTRAZA(neem organic fertilizer): neems organic
supplements in pellets and liquid.
• NEEM GUARD • Nature Neem Ayurvedic Soaps ,Neem baby oil, Neem
face pack etc.
56. Neem dental care products
• Neem dental care products contains Neem leaf or bark extract.
• Neem leaf is rich in antioxidants and helps to boost the immune
response in gum and tissues of the mouth.
• Neem offers a good remedy for curing mouth ulcers, tooth decay and
acts as a pain reliever in toothache problems.
• Dental applications of Neem
1. Antibacterial activity
• Neem is a natural antibacterial agent. Various scientific studies have
revealed its antibacterial activity.
• Dried chewing sticks of Neem showed maximum antibacterial
activity against S. mutans compared to other dental caries-causing
organisms, S. salivarius, S. mitis, and S. sanguis.
57. 2. Anti-candidial activity
• Ethanolic and aqueous extract of Neem leaf showed significant anti-
candidial effect against C. albicans.
3.Anti-cariogenic activity
• Mango and Neem extract showed antimicrobial activity against S. mutans,
S. salivarius, S. sanguis and S. mitis. A combination of chewing sticks is
found to be beneficial in eradicating the dental caries-causing organism
• Antimicrobial activity of commercially available Himalaya herbal dental
cream containing neem and fluoride-containing cheerio gel toothpaste has
been assessed in school children. The study reported both the toothpastes
showed a good antimicrobial effect on caries producing salivary
streptococcus mutans
61. USES:
• Carminative.
• Clove oil which contain high percentage of eugenol used commercially to
produce Vanillin .
• Antiseptic.
• Flavoring agent.
• Dental uses : as filling material with ZnO 7. Local anesthetic (dental
analgesic)
62. Clove oil and dental health
• a huge population commonly face dental issues like toothache, tooth decay
and bleeding gums and often ignore it until it is highly symptomatic.
• Clove oil is one such home remedy that has been used in the Indian and
Chinese medicine therapy to treat teeth related issues mainly tooth ache. Its
reference can be found in the Ayurveda as well.
• Eugenol is also a major ingredient in of the dressings the dentist uses very
frequently at their clinics for root canal therapy , gum and abscess related
issues.
63. A few benefits of using clove/clove oil
• Provides temporary relief from toothache The eugenol ingredient present in
the clove has anti-inflammatory properties that can help the ailing tooth
• Clove has natural ingredients that can numb the part of the skin that are in
close contact with the teeth.
• Due to its antibacterial and antifungal properties it is widely used in
toothpaste preparations.
64. • How to use clove/clove oil
• Simply take a clove and bite on the aching tooth for some temporary pain
relief. One could also use a dash of clove oil dipped in cotton ball and
place it on the affected tooth to experience instant relief, also it can be
applied to the gums.