हर्बल रंगों का उपयोग करना चाहिए जो स्वास्थ्य क े मलए बेहतर हैं। कुछ उदाहरण हैं: 1. हेना - यह एक सुरक्षित और प्राकृतिक रंग है जो बालों और त्व

3. According to her “Entrepreneur are not born, they are created”, se also
says that she has never seen obstacles as obstacles in her life, she
says obstacles are the best way to check our potential.

4. INTRODUCTION AND BRIEF HISTORY OF HERBAL COSMETICS
•It is said that Cleopatra, the famous Egyptian beauty, favoured bathing in donkey’s milk;
•Shakuntala, the Indian beauty applied Kosta (a herb) paste which was so fragrant that it attracted
bees;
• While Noor Jahan, the Mugal queen had a spa where roses were used to enhance beauty.
•In fact the concept of beauty and cosmetic is as old as human race or utilization.
•It may also vary among people belonging to different continents, or cultures but the desire to look
more attractive, young and seductive is a common factor.

5. Herbal Cosmetics………….How Safe is “Safe”?
•A sweeping comment cannot be made that all herbal cosmetics are safe.
•SLS and propylene glycol have been known to be used in personal beauty products labeled
‘organic’.
•So how organic is organic?
•How safe is safe? Can bacteria, insecticides and pesticides not affect the natural ingredients like
plants and roots? If some people are allergic to a natural nut like peanut, can they not have allergic
reaction to other nuts, oils and plants as well?
•Do the makers of their herbal cosmetics actually prepare them the same way as laid down by the
original Ayurvedic texts?
•Do not be carried away by the so called ‘safe herbal’ solutions with false promises.

7. Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics Vs Synthetic
Free from side effects
Herbal ingredients are widely available at economic price
Ease of application and easy to make and remove
Compatible with all skin types
Utilises, plant extracts, powder, phytoconstituents, oils,
Eg: Neem oil, Coconut oil, Aloe vera gel etc.

8. As per the Drugs and Cosmetic Act 1940 of India, Cosmetic is defined as
any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or
introduced into or applied to any part of the human body for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes
any article intended for use as a component of cosmetic

9. •Cosmetic is one that specifically used to perform the function to clean, to perfume, to change the
appearance, to correct the body odor, to protect, to keep in good condition.
•As per the Drugs and Cosmetic Act a product is a cosmetic when it cleanses, beautifies, promotes
attractiveness or others the appearance of human body.

12. Classification of Herbal Cosmetics
1. Based on dosage form:
 Emulsion: Eg. Cold Cream, vanishing cream, liquid cream
 Powder: Eg. Face powder, tooth powder
 Cakes: Eg. Rouge compacts, Make-up cake
 Oils: Eg. Hair oils
 Paste: Eg. Tooth paste
 Soaps: Toilet soap
 Solutions: Eg. After shave

13. 2. Based on Body parts:
 Skin care: Creams, lotions, sunscreen, deodorants
 Hair care: Shampoo, Conditioners, Tonics
 Nail care: Polishes, removers, Manicure
 Dental and oral care: Tooth pastes, Mouth washes

22. Herbal cosmetics for Face:
Face takes on the burnt of stress, fatigue, accelerated ageing, impurities and environmental battering-sun, wind and
pollution.
The skin is the largest organ of the body and provides a natural barrier against harmful chemicals, microbes and ultraviolet
radiations.
The two aspects of skin care include prevention of skin diseases and maintaining the healthy glow and charm of skin.
Herbal formulation for Face:
Hyper pigmentation (Neem, and Henna)
Natural soap (Apricot, Soap nut, Turmeric)
Body lotion (Almond oil, rose oil, sandal oil)
Under eye dark circle (Rose petals, coconut oil)
Dark patches on face (Orange peel, papaya peel, Banana peel)

23. Basic Requirements of Skin Care Products are:
• Cleansing agent: Removes the dust, dead cells
Eg: Vegetable oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil
• Toners: Help to tighten the skin and avoid the contact of
toxins. Eg: Hazel, lemon, essential oils etc.
• Moisturizing agents: Keeps skin soft and supple, glow and
antiaging effects. Eg: Glycerin, Sorbitol, rose water etc.

25. Fixed oils used for Dry Skin Treatment
Name of Herb Biological source Uses
Coconut oil Cocos nucifera,
family: Arecaceae
Moisturizer and softener, Prevent protein loss
from the wet combing hair.
Sunflower oil Helianthus annuus,
family- Asteraceae
Soothing effect
Jojoba oil Simmondisa chinensis,
family: Simmondsiaceae
Fragrance, moisturizer, restores the natural pH
balance. Also has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant,
anti-parasitic, analgesic activity.
Castor oil Ricinus communis,
family: Euphorbiaceae
Used as carriers, emollient or solvent for toiletry,
cleanser and conditioner
Mango kernels Mangifera indica,
family: Anacardiaceae
Suitable ingredient for baby creams, suncare
balms, moisturizer, useful in skin treatment such
as skin eruptions, sores, boils and infections.

26. Skin Protecting Agents and Antiaging Treatment
Name of Herb Biological source Uses
Aloe Juice of Aloe vera,
Aloe barbendensis
Family: Liliaceae
Antioxidant, Wound healing, Mucoploysaccharides
present in aloe causes remodeling of the wound.
Protects from effects of UV rays.
Oats Avena sativa,
family: Graminae
Moisturiser, cleanser, antiaging, antioxidant, improves
the tensile strength etc.
Golden
roots
Rhodiola rosea,
family: Crassulaceae
Increases physical endurance, reduces fatigue, anemia,
anti-stress.
Carrot Daucus carota,
family: Apiaceae
The oil possesses anti-aging, revitalizing, removes
blemishes, wrinkles and protect against sun rays.
Turmeric Curcuma longa,
Family: Zingiberaceae
Antiseptic, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant,
antimalerial, natural colorant etc. It inhibits activity of
phosphorylase kinase, hence is used to prevent, treat
psoriasis, acne, wounds, burns, ulcers, eczema etc.

27. Volatile oils used in Skin Care Products
Name of herb Biological source Uses
Calendula Calendula officinalis,
Family: Asteraceae
It act as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and
wound healing agent
Rose oil Rosa damascene, Rosa gallica,
Rosa moschata, Rosa centifolia.
Family: Rosaceae
Wound healing, antioxidant, anti-stress and
to treat depression.
Eucalyptus oil Eucalyptus cinerea, E.
baueriana,
E. smithii, E.bridgesiana.
Family: Myrataceae
Inhalants, cooling effect, anti-inflammatory
and analgesic.
Lavender oil Lavendula angustifolia,
family: Lamiaceae
It stimulates cell growth and used in skin
disorders like bites, stretch marks, rashes,
cold sores and sunburns. It is antibacterial
agent and hence help to treat acne,
psoriasis and eczema etc.

38. Herbal Raw material used in Hair Care Products
Name of herb Biological source Uses
Amla Dried fruits of Emblica officinalis, family:
Euphorbiaceae
It act as hair tonic, stimulates hair growth and
prevents premature graying of hairs.
Bramhi Herb of Centella asiatica, family: Umbelliferae It avoids premature graying of hairs and helps to
relieve mental fatigue and stress.
Bhringraj Eclipta alba Linn, family: Asteraceae Hair tonic
Henna Leaves of Lawsonia inermis of family Lythraceae Used as natural colour dye in hair formulations.
At basic pH gives dark intense orange, black and
long hairs.
Hibiscus
(Jasvanda)
Flowers of Hibiscus rosa sinensis of family:
Malvaceae
Hair conditioners, prevents premature graying
and hair loss.
Jatamansi Rhizomes of Nardostachys jatamansi, family:
Valerianaceae
Hair tonic, promote hair growth and used as hair
dye.
Shikakai Pods of Acacia concinna, family Mimosaceae Anti-dandruff, strength the hair, promotes hair
growth etc.

47. Volatile oil and Fixed oils used in Hair Care Products
Name of herb Biological source Chemical constituents Uses
Coconut oil Kernels of Cocos nucifera Linn
family-Palmae
Phytoconstituents of coconut oil
are lauric, caproic, caprylic, capric
myristic, palmitic and stearic acid
It has good saponification
value hence it is used in
shampoo and hair oil
Basil oil Leaves and flowering tops of
Ocimum sanctum, family-
Labiatae.
It contains, linalool, citral, methyl
chavicol, eugenol, methyl
cinnamate etc
Good hair growth promoter.
Natural Colourants used in Hair care products
Madder Roots of Rubia tinctorium
belonging to family: Rubiaceae
Contains anthraquinone
glycosides: alizarin, purpurin.
It is red colured dye
Chamomile Leaves and flowers of Matricaria
recutita, Chamaemelum nobile
of family- Asteraceae
Apigenin Yellow colour dye

48. Shampoo
Shampoo is a liquid soap of higher quality which is used for washing of head/hair in order to clean, remove dandruff
(dead tissues/cells of scalp), and nourish the hairs.
Herbal shampoos are those in which ingredients plants as such are used to serve any of physical or chemical or
physiological purpose of shampoo.
Shampoos are broadly classified as
•Medicated shampoo
•Non-medicated shampoo
•Herbal shampoo
•Nutrient shampoo (for hair)

56. Herbal Raw Material for Oral hygiene products
Oral hygiene is important part of human health but it is neglected. Oral health problems
like dental carries and periodontal diseases are increasing at alarming stage.
Dental treatment are usually expensive, critical and utilizes mainly analgesic and
antimicrobial agents.
These agents have several side effects such as alteration in oral microflora, diarrhoea,
vomiting, burning sensation and tooth staining.
It is well documented that many of the phytochemicals have anti-microbial activity and
are safe, effective and economic option to treat oral diseases.

60. Herbs used for oral hygiene are classified as:
Antimicrobial agents: Example: Aloe, black pepper, eucalyptus, garlic,
turmeric etc.
Antioxidant agents: Eg: Spinach, pepper, black tea, brocoli, green tea, carrot,
potato, blackberry, grapes etc.
Analgesic agents: Capsicum, Clove, ginger, peppermint etc.
Anti-inflammatory agents: Aloe, clove, neem, turmeric etc.
Herbal Raw Material for Oral hygiene products

69. INTRODUCTION:
 The word Excipient is derived from the Latin word, which means to receive, to gather and to take out.
 Drugs are formulated in suitable dosage forms with the help of excipients.
 Excipients may act as binders, lubricants, gelling agents, surfactants, emulsifiers, coating agents,
sweeteners, suspending agent, flavours, preservative etc.
 Excipients play pivotal role to determine performance, safety, efficacy and stability of the active
pharmaceutical ingredient.
 Excipients are in great demand, as they are economic, easily available and less toxic and effective.
Definition: According to the International Pharmaceutical Excipient Council, The excipients
are defined as “Substance, other than the active drug substances of finished dosage
form, which have been appropriately evaluated for safety and are included in a drug
delivery systems to either aid the processing of the drug delivery system during its
manufacture, protect, support or enhance stability, bioavailability or patient
acceptability; assist in product identification; or enhance any other attributes of the
overall safety and effectiveness of the drug delivery system during storage or use.

72. • Excipients are defined as ‘the substance used as a medium for giving a
medicament.
• Pharmaceutical excipients can be defined as non active ingredients that are
mixed with therapeutically active compound(s) to form medicines.
• The ingredient which is not an active compound is regarded as an excipient.
• Excipients affect the behavior and effectiveness of the drug product.

73. According to WHO Excipient is defined as ,
The substance other than active ingredients which have been appropriately evaluated for
safety and or included in a drug delivery system to:
 Aid in processing of drug delivery system during its manufacture
 Protect, support and enhance stability, bioavailability or patient acceptability
 Assist in product identification
 Enhances any other attribute of the overall safety and effectiveness of the drug during
storage or use.

74. Functions of herbal Excipients:
Add bulk to the formulation
Help to handle API
Assist in administration
Enhances patients compliance
Enhances drug solubility
Modify pH and Osmolarity of liquid dosage forms
Helps to maintain stability
Advantages of Herbal Excipients:
Biocompatible, Economic, Easily available, less toxic, biodegradable, and can chemically
modified.

75. DISADVANTAGES OF HERBAL
EXCIPIENTS

79. Classification of Excipients
1. Based on Regulatory aspects there are three main categories:
 Approved excipients: It includes excipients from food industry or pharmaceutical
industry. They are safe and are in use for very long time
 Intermediate category essentially new excipients: Structurally modification compounds
 New Compounds: These are not used in the pharmaceutical industry and are new
compounds.

80. Classification of Excipients
2. Based on sources of Excipients:
 Animal Sources: Besswax, Gelatine, Honey, Spermaceti, Lanolin etc.
 Vegetable source: Kokum butter, Pectin, starch, peppermint oil, gums, mucilage,
vanilla, cardamon, henna, stevia etc.
 Mineral source: Bentonite, Kieselghur, Kaolin, Paraffins, Talc, Fullers earths etc.
 Marine source: Agar, chitin, chitosans, carageenans, Alginates
 Synthetic: PEGs, Polysorbate, Povidone.

81. Classification of Excipients
3. Based on chemical nature:
Sr.no Chemical nature Examples
1 Alcohols Polyphenolic
compounds
2 Esters, aldehydes, Ethers Fixed oil, citric acid,
vanillin
3 Glycerides and waxes Bees wax, lanolin
4 Polymers Cellulose and pectin

82. Classification of Excipients
4. Based on Function
Sr.
no
Category Herbal drugs
1 Binders Acaia, Alginic acid, starch
2 Disintegrating agents Silicone, Guar gum, Agar
3 Coating agent Gelatin, Shellac
4 Lubricants Castor oil, Mineral oil, Paraffin oil
5 Coloring agent Annatto, carotene, Chlorophyll, Curcumin
6 Flavoring agent Raspberry, Lemon, Peppermint
7 Buffering agent Lemon
8 Viscosity builders or
emulsifiers
Gelatin, mucilage
9 Solvents Purified water and oils

83. Plant derived polymers
Advantages
• renewable
• can be cultivated or harvested in sustainable manner
• can supply constant availability of raw material
Disadvantages
• Synthesized in small quantities
• In mixtures that are structurally complex, which may differ according to the location of
the plants as well as other variables such as the season
• Result in a slow and expensive isolation and purification process.

84. Herbal Excipients
1. Colorants,
2. Sweeteners,
3. Binders,
4. Diluents,
5. Viscosity builders,
6. Disintegrating agents and
7. Natural perfumes and flavouring agent

89. क
े मिकल वाले रंग स्किन पर एक्ने, एलर्जी और र्जलन का कारण
बनते हैं। इनसे बचने क
े मलए फ
ू ल, पमिय ं, सस्किय ं और िसाल ं से
तैयार रंग ं का इस्तेिाल मकया र्जा सकता है। ये स्किन क
े मलए
फायदेिंद ह ते हैं और आंख ं क भी नुकसान नहीं पहंचाते।

92. Natural Colorants:
Name of herb Biological source Chemical constituents Uses/ significance
Turmeric/Haldi/
Indian Saffron
Rhizomes of Curcuma
longa,
family: Zingiberaceae
Resin, heptanoid yellow
coloruing substances known
as curcuminoids, tumeron
Use as colorant in
pharmaceutical dosage
forms, cosmetics and food
products
Annatto/
Achiote tree
Seeds of Bixa orellana,
family-Bixaceae
It contains colorant bixin Colour coating agent for
solid and liquid
pharmaceutical dosage
forms.
Indigo Leaves of Indigo tinctoria,
suffructicosa,
family-Leguminosae
Glycoside indican which
produces colour dye.
Food industry and textile
dye
Henna/Mehendi Dried leaves of Lawsonia
inermis family: Lythraceae
Lawsone (2,5-dihydroxy-1-4-
napthoquinone).
Hair dye

97. • Historically Alizarin was derived from
the roots of plants of the madder genus.
• In 1869, it became the first natural dye
to be produced synthetically.

99. Annatto - carotenoids
Biological source: Dried seeds – Bixa orellana
Family : Bixaceae
Physical properties: Yellow orange in color
Soluble in alcohol, ether, insoluble in water
Chemical constituents: oleo resin – Bixin (yellow orange colored carotenoid) –
2.5%

100. Chlorophyll
Biological source: Green leaves of higher plants and green algae (PRESENT IN
CHLOROPLAST)
• Mixture of 4 pigments – Chlorophyll a & Chlorophyll b
Physical properties: Soluble in organic solvent, Slightly soluble in water
Uses: Coloring agents – soaps, oils and cosmetics

101. Cochineal
Biological source: Dried female insects Dactylopius coccus
Family : Coccidae
Production: Bugs are collected and killed by immersing in hot water or exposure to sun.
Chemical constituents: 10 % anthroquinone dye – Carminic acid , 10% fat, 2% wax

102. • Uses: Coloring agent – cosmetics, drug, liquid and solid food preparations

103. Henna (Lawsonia)
Biological source: Dried leaves – Lawsonia inermis
Family : Lythraceae
Chemical constituents: Lawsone – 2,5 – diOH-1,4-naphthoquinone (orange dye)
Uses: Hair dye
Along with dihydroxy acetone –sunscreen agent

104. Curcumin - Turmeric
Biological source: Bright yellow coloring material obtained from the rhizomes of Curcuma
longa
Family : Zingiberaceae
Solubility: soluble – ethanol, acetic acid
Insoluble – water, ether

105. Raw materials – colors
Uses: Food colouring agent

106. Carthamine
Carthamin is a natural red pigment derived from safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), earlier
known as carthamine.
It is used as a dye and a food coloring. As a food additive, it is known as Natural Red 26.
Family : Asteraceae
Uses: It is used as a dye and a food coloring. As a food additive, it is known as Natural Red.
Carthamin was used as a dye in ancient Egypt.

108. Crocin (Saffron)
Biological source: Golden yellow – orange carotenoid pigment obtained from the dried
stigmas and upper parts of styles of Crocus sativus
Family : Iridaceae
Solubility: Soluble in hot water and insoluble in absolute alcohol
Uses : Food colourant

109. Raw materials - colors

110. Capsanthin
Biological source: Red colour carotenoid pigment obtained from the fruit of Capsicum annum
Family : Solanaceae
Constituents: Carotenoid - Capsanthin
Uses: Coloring agent for food, pharmaceutical, cosmetics and beverages

111. Lutein (Tagetus)
Biological source: Yellow orange colour carotenoid pigment obtained from the flower of
Tagetus erecta
Family : Compositae
Uses: Coloring agent for food, pharmaceutical

112. Betanin (Beet root)
Biological source: Red glycoside obtained from the beet root, Beta vulgaris Amaranthaceae
Uses: Coloring agent for ice cream, powdered soft drink beverages, soups, in some
sugar confectionery

113. Natural Sweeteners:
Name of herb Biological source Chemical constituents Uses/ significance
Stevia/Honey
leaf
Leaves of Stevia rebaudiana,
family: Compositae
Stevioside is a diterpene
glycoside. Rebaudioside
and Dulcoside A etc.
Stevia is a natural
calorie free sweetener
Liquorice/Yashti
madhu/Mulethi
Dried peeled, unpeeled roots and
stolons of Glycyrrhiza glabra.
Family-Leguminosae
Glycyrrhizin is a pentacyclic
triterpenoid saponin
glycoside in the form of
potassium and calcium salt
of glycyrrhizic acid
Sweetening agent,
flavoring agent and
stabilizer in PDF
Serendipity
berry/Monellins
It is obtained from
Dioscorephyllum volkensii, family-
Menispermaceae
Monellin- A instensely
sweet protein, 3000 times
sweet than sucrose
Table top sweetener
Thaumatin/Talin
/Katemfe
Aerial fruits of Thaumatococcus
danielli, family-Marantaceae
Thaumatin protein occurs
in two forms I and II. It
consist of 207 amino acids
Thaumatin is 10,000
time sweeter than
sucrose. Masking
agent.

117. • Stevia is a natural sweetener and sugar substitute derived from the leaves of the plant
species Stevia rebaudiana, native to Brazil and Paraguay.
• The active compounds are steviol glycosides (mainly stevioside and rebaudioside),
which have about 50 to 300 times the sweetness of sugar, are heat-stable, pH-stable,
and not fermentable.
• The human body does not metabolize the glycosides in stevia, so it contains zero
calories as a non-nutritive sweetener.
• Stevia's taste has a slower onset and longer duration than that of sugar, and at high
concentrations some of its extracts may have an aftertaste described as licorice-like
or bitter.
• Stevia is used in sugar- and calorie-reduced food and beverage products as an
alternative for variants with sugar.

118. • The legal status of stevia as a food additive or dietary supplement varies from country to country.
• The European Union approved Stevia additives in 2011 while in Japan, stevia has been widely used
as a sweetener for decades.
• The plant Stevia rebaudiana has been used for more than 1,500 years by the Guaraní peoples of
South America, who called it ka'a he'ê ("sweet herb").
• The leaves have been used traditionally for hundreds of years in both Brazil and Paraguay to
sweeten local teas and medicines, and as a "sweet treat".
• The genus was named for the Spanish botanist and physician Petrus Jacobus Stevus
• In 1899, Swiss botanist Moisés Santiago Bertoni, while conducting research in eastern Paraguay, first
described the plant and the sweet taste in detail.
• Only limited research was conducted on the topic until, in 1931, two French chemists isolated the
glycosides that give stevia its sweet taste.

121. डायटीशियन क
े क
े मुताशिक, जो लोग अपनी डाइट में मीठा
िाशमल करने से खुद को नहीीं रोक पा रहे हैं, वे क
ु छ नेचुरल
स्वीटनर यूज कर सकते हैं। िरीर पर इसका कोई नुकसान नहीीं
होता है और शमठास की चाहत भी पूरी होती है। स्टीशवया क
े पत्ते
नेचुरल स्वीटनर होते हैं। इसक
े अलावा डर ाई फ्र
ू ट्स, डेट्स (खजूर),
फ्र
े ि फ्र
ू ट्स, गुड़ या स्टीशवया लीफ से िनी आींवला क
ैं डी को भी
नेचुरल स्वीटनर की तरह डाइट में िाशमल कर सकते हैं।

124. Other natural sweeteners with enviro-friendly production methods that are becoming
popular food ingredients for health-conscious consumers are briefly described below:
•Raw Honey: one of the oldest natural sweeteners. Honey is sweeter than sugar, and is the
only sweetener obtained from an animal source. Honey is a sugar secretion that is deposited
on honeycombs by bees Apis mellifera, Apis indica (Indian Bee), Apis dorsata (Rock Bee),
among other Apis species of the family Apidae.
•Blackstrap Molasses: the byproduct from raw sugar refinery or a sugarcane factory; it is
the thick dark, viscous liquid that is left after the final sugar crystallization stage from which
no more sugar can be crystallized economically by usual methods.
•Real Maple Syrup: it is made from the sap exuded from stems of the genus Acer, Acer
saccharum usually in spring. Sap primarily contains water and sucrose, with varying
amounts of amino and organic acids and phenolic substances, which is concentrated by
heating to produce a wide range of flavour compounds.

128. Natural Binders
Name of herb Biological source Chemical constituents Uses/ significance
Acacia/Babul Dried gummy exudation from
stems of Acacia arabica,
Acacia senegal. Family-
Leguminosae
Arabinose, glactose,
rhamnose and glycuronic acid
Binders-tablet, suspending,
emulsifying, thickerner,
base for lozenges.
Tragacanth Dried gum of Astragalaus
gummifer, family-Fabaceae
Bassorin and tragacanthin It is use to make
formulations like creams,
gels and emulsions.
Starch Polysaccharide from grains like
corn (Zea mays) family-
Gramineae, Potato (Solanum
tuberosum) Solanaceae,
Tapioca (Manihot utillissima)
family-Euphorbiaceae, Wheat
(Triticum aestivum) and rice
(Oryza sativa) family-Poaceae
Amylose and amylo pectin
and alpha glucose.
Diluents, binder,
disintegrate, dusting
powder, emollient, in
formulation of enema,
Tamrind Tamarindus indica, Rosaceae Tamarind gum Gelling agent, stabilizer

133. Natural Diluents
Name of herb Biological source Uses/ significance
Cellulose It is polysaccharides and is
structural compound found in the
cells of plants algae and few
bacteria.
Diluents for tablets and filler for hard
gelatin capsules. Suspending agent, for
manufacturing of suppositories.
Lactose/Milk
sugar
Disaccharides of animal origin
consisting of galactose and glucose
and obtained from milk of
mammals.
Diluents in tablet, capsules, dry powder,
Coating solution with sucrose.
Mannitol It is exudation from the stem of
Fraxinus ornus Family-Oleaceae
Diluent for tablet formulation also suitable
for moisture sensitive drugs. Mannitol
helps in direct compression or in wet
granulation.

135. Viscosity Enhancer/Builders
Name of herb Biological source Chemical constituents Uses/ significance
Guar Gum It is a polysaccharide obtained from the
endosperm of the seed of guar lant,
Cyamposis tetragonoloba and
C.psoralioides. Family-Fabaceae
It contains galactose and
mannose sugars.
Binder, disintegrates,
suspending, thickening and
stabilizing agent and in
Controlled-release carrier
dosage forms.
Carrageenan Sulphated polysaccharide obtained from
the red-algae, Chondrus crispus belonging
to family-Rhodohyllaceae
Potassium, sodium,
calcium, magnesium and
ammonium sulphate esters
of galactose
It is use to prepare
suspensions, emulsions,
gels, creams, lotions, drops,
tablet capsules etc.

136. Natural Disintegrating agent
Name of herb Biological source Chemical
constituents
Uses/ significance
Chitosan Polysaccharide obtained from crab and
shrimp shells. It is prepared by
deacetylation of chitin present in
these organisms.
Chitosan Controlled Drug
Release/delivery,
mucoadhesive dosage forms,
rapid release, improved
peptide delivery etc. It can
be used in gels, films,
microsphere, liposome.

137. Herbal Perfumes and Flavouring agent
Name of
herb
Biological source Chemical constituents Uses/ significance
Sandal Wood
oil/Chandan
Volatile oil obtained by steam distillation
of heartwood of Santalum album and S.
spicatum family: Santalaceae
The main constituent is
sesquiterpene alcohol,
alpha and beta santalol,
santene, santalic acid
It is used in soaps and
cosmetics. Traditionally
it is used to treat
common colds,
bronchitis, fever, UTI
infections.
Rose oil Steam distillation of fresh flowers of Rosa
damascena, Rosa centifolia, family-
Rosaceae
It contains, damascone,
ionene, rose oxide.
Other constituents
geraniol, nerol, linalool,
pinene etc
Flavouring agent and
perfume.
Peppermint Mentha piperita, family-Labiatae Menthol, menthone,
camphene, limonene
Flavouring agent.

140. Waxes of herbal origin
• Firstly, you should consider the hardness of the wax. The higher the
melting point of a wax, the harder the finished product. If you’re making a
stick formulation, you’ll need a wax with a high melting point.
• If you’re preparing formulations for a tropical climate, you’ll need a wax
with a higher melting point. If you’re preparing a soft hand & body balm on
the other hand, you’ll need a wax with a low melting point.
• All waxes have their upsides and drawbacks. The choice depends on your
product concept and can vary from product to product and from
application to application.
• The balance between hardness (melting point), spreadability and skin feel
should be adjusted by trial and error and according to the climate the
product is going to be marketed, the packaging and the product concept.
https://formulabotanica.com/6-vegan-waxes/

141. • Waxes are widely used in many applications because they are
multifunctional: as emollients, texturizers, and thickeners.
• The melting point of waxes used in cosmetic formulations is very
important and determines their behavior; the higher the melting
point of a wax, the more texture and consistency it will provide,
whereas a wax with a lower melting point will provide more
emollience and less texture.

142. Natural waxes used in cosmetics can be of different origins:
•Mineral: extracted from the subsoil like minerals, but formed from organic molecules; during the
distillation of crude oils, a section corresponding to paraffins and waxes is obtained in a temperature
range from 400°C to 500°C. These are saturated hydrocarbons with a carbon number between 18
and 40 (or even 50 or 60). Waxes have long, branched chains that give them a microcrystalline
structure. Paraffins have slightly shorter, linear (unbranched) chains, giving them a macrocrystalline
•Vegetable: these are esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols. Natural fatty acids are straight-chain
carboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, the most important of which contain 12 to 22 carbon
atoms in even numbers. The most commonly used vegetable waxes in cosmetic formulations are
Carnauba, Jojoba and Candelilla waxes.
•Animal: the most commonly used wax in cosmetics is beeswax. Beeswax is composed of
approximately 71% esters, 15% long-chain linear hydrocarbons, 13% free acids and 1% free
alcohols. It has an acid number of 15-23, an iodine number of 6-12 and a saponification number of
85-105.

143. Carnauba wax
• Carnauba wax comes from the leaves of a palm tree, Copernicia Prunifera. It
is native to the north-eastern region of Brazil.
• It has a sort of waxy coating on its leaves, which is harvested to become
carnauba wax.
• Carnauba wax has similar properties to other plant waxes such as emollient
properties.
• In addition, it has hypoallergenic properties, provides a glossy finish to the
formula and is used in many applications, from skin care to make-up products,
such as foundations

144. Sunflower wax
• Sunflower wax is derived from sunflower seeds (Heliantus annus)
which are pressed into sunflower oil.
• Sunflower wax is used in cosmetics in the same way as carnauba
and candelilla wax for its thickening and structuring properties, but
also as an emollient.
• Its various applications allow formulators to use this ingredient in
their make-up formulas, mainly for lipsticks or mascaras for
example.

145. Beeswax
• The newly produced wax is usually colourless, but depending on the flowers from
which the honey is made, the bees that produce it, and also the presence of other
bees in the hive that may contaminate the wax with other pollen, beeswax can
have different colours ranging from white to yellow or brown.
• Depending on its temperature, beeswax can have two different textures: hard and
brittle when cold, and soft when hot.
• Beeswax has many advantages when incorporated into cosmetic formulas: it
prevents separation in the oil phase of the formulation, and is a thickener that
adds structure to the final product.
• Beeswax has various properties that moisturize and soothe the skin. It is an
excellent ally for irritated skin, for example, or for damaged hair owing to its
nourishing action.
• As the demand for more vegan products increases in the cosmetics industry,
formulators are looking for alternatives to animal-based ingredients.

146. Antioxidant
• An antioxidant is a substance that inhibits oxidation
or reactions promoted by oxygen, peroxides or free
radicals.
Synthetic antioxidant
• Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)
• Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)
Natural antioxidant
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
• Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
• Polyphenols: Flavonoids

150. • Cosmetics – prone to spoilage – oxidation of fats, fatty acids and other organic material
by atmospheric oxygen
• Antioxidants – keeps oils and fats from being rancid.
• Concentration – 0.02% - 0.1%

151. 1. Phenolic antioxidants
• Vitamin E
• Natural antioxidant – topically applied –UV radiation
• Shown to reduce – erythema, edema and sun burn
• Increase SPF - antiageing effect
2. Non - Phenolic antioxidants
• Vitamin C/Ascorbic acid
• Protects skin – oxidative damage – UV rays
• Anti ageing property – avoids hyper pigmentation
• Anti inflammatory
• Concentration – 0.2 – 4 %
• Used - lotions, creams, sun protection products, shampoos and lipsticks
3. Lecithin – Synergist – phenolic antioxidant
4. Coenzyme Q 10
Grape seed extract
Proanthocyanidins
Pine bark extract

152. Types of herbal dosage forms
• Traditional dosage form
• Modern herbal dosage forms
• Novel dosage forms

153. Herbal formulations
Means a dosage form consisting of one or more herbs or processed herbs in specified
quantities to provide specific nutritional, cosmetic benefits meant for use to diagnose, treat,
mitigate diseases of human beings or animals, alter the structure or physiology of human
beings or animals.
• “Novel Drug delivery System (NDDS) refers to the formulations, systems and
technologies for transporting a pharmaceutical compound in the body as it is needed to
safely achieve its desired therapeutic effects.
• It is a novel approach to drug delivery that addresses the limitations of the traditional drug
delivery systems.

155. • Syrup is a concentrated mixture of sugar in purified water.
• The oral use of liquid pharmaceutical has generally been justified on the basis
of ease of administration to those individuals who have difficulties in
swallowing solid dosage forms.
• Ayurvedic herbal cough syrup comprising goodness of herbs such as Tulsi,
Liquorice, Ginger, Vasaka which has been reported to provide effective relief
in cough without causing adverse effects like those associated with the use of
antihistamines.
• Combination of these herbs with honey is intended to provide additive benefit
in relieving symptoms of acute non-productive cough.

156. Preparation of Herbal Syrup
• An herbal syrup is prepared by combining a concentrated decoction with either honey or
sugar, and sometimes alcohol.
• The base of such a syrup is a strong herbal decoction. Mixing a decoction with honey or
sugar helps to thicken and preserve the decoction.
• This increases the shelf life of the decoction and often creates a soothing application that
benefits situations such as sore throat, cough, dry irritated tissues, and digestive issues.
• The added sweetener can also help to increase the palatability of some herbs. Many folks,
including children, find syrups to be delicious.
• The basic proportions you want to use are 2 parts herbal decoction to 1 part honey or
sugar. This is called a 2:1 ratio.
• This means that if you start with your herbs added to 4 cups of water and simmer down
the liquid to 2 cups of decoction, then you will want to add 1 cup of honey or sugar to
create and adequately preserve your syrup. Some herbalists like to use a 1:1 ratio of
decoction to honey/sugar while others find a 1:1 ratio to result in a syrup that is too sweet.
• The increased amount of honey/sugar relative to decoction in a 1:1 ratio will be better
preserved and hence last longer.

157. HERBAL TABLETS
• These are solid dosage forms of powdered herbs, herbal extracts or their constituents
prepared by moulding or compression.
• In addition to the active ingredients, these contain diluents like binding agents which
provide strength to withstand normal handling while transportation and storage, colouring
agents to improve the appearance, sweetening and flavouring agents to mask the bitter taste,
disintegrating agents to facilitate the breakdown and absorption in the gastrointestinal tract
are added.

158. Herbal formulations

160. Why NDDS ?

161. • With the advancement in different scientific techniques of preparing formulations,
novel dosage forms are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional
dosage forms such as tablets, syrups, solutions, etc.
• Many novel dosage forms have been developed successfully which have offered
better acceptance by the health system.
• A few novel dosage forms available in the market are transdermal patches, implants,
nasal systems, microcapsules microspheres, liposomes, phytosomes, etc,
For getting desired release (controlled release, sustained release
and others) profile & site specific delivery of drugs and thereby
ensuring lower dose & reduced or no possible side effect

163. Liposomes
• These are prepared by incorporating the active ingredients inside the microscopic double layered membranes which are
made of phospholipids (known as phospholipids vesicles).
• These vesicles are suspended in an aqueous solvent uniformly.
• Drugs incorporated in the liposomes can be delivered to the desired site in desired concentration.
• This novel drug delivery system is especially targeted to liposomal delivery of drugs in cancer chemotherapy, arthritis,
haemophilia and diseases of the immune system.
Nanoparticles
• These are colloidal particles of the submicron size which act as carriers for drug molecules
• These are used to target various sites in the treatment of cancer, disease of the reticuloendothelial system and enzyme
replacement therapy in liver.
Microspheres
• These are small, solid particulate carriers containing the dispersed drug particles either in solution or crystalline form.
• Microspheres are used as carriers for drugs and therapeutic agents especially in cancer treatment and hormonal disorders.

164. Phytosomes

165. • Phytosomes, also called phyto-phospholipid complexes, are the
vesicular systems formed by the interaction between hydrophilic parts
of phospholipids (that is choline) and the hydrophilic phyto-active
components resulting in the formation of hydrogen bonds between them
and this is then surrounded by lipophilic part of phospholipid (that is
phosphatidyl).
• The structural difference between liposomes and phytosomes is that
liposomes have their active ingredient inside the hydrophilic cavity or
within the layers of membranes while in phytosomes, those components
are a part of the membrane itself.
• Phytosomes are synthesized by complexing these active ingredients
with phospholipids in the defined stoichiometric ratios under predefined
conditions.

166. • The resulting complex helps these active ingredients to pass through
the outer membrane of gastrointestinal cells and reach their functional
site.
• Due to this, the absorption of these components is greatly increased
and their bioavailability becomes much greater as compared to the
original component.
• Phytosomes have been found to significantly enhance bioavailability
of many plants extracts like curcumin, Ginkgo biloba, silymarin,
ginseng, and polyphenolic compounds found in olive oil, green tea
and grape seeds.
• Scientists have successfully formulated phytosome loaded
with quercetin using phosphatidylcholine and cholesterol which
resulted in its better release and bioavailability, thus proving its
potential to be used in formulation of fortified food products containing
water insoluble antioxidants.