This document discusses cutting and non-cyclic machines used in garment manufacturing. It begins by defining cutting as separating fabric parts using templates and equipment. The objectives of cutting are to shape fabrics according to designs. Cutting machines range from manual to automatic and include straight knives, round knives, band knives, die cutters, and laser cutters. Common garment pieces like shirts are cut using these various machines depending on the piece. Non-cyclic machines discussed are overlock and flatlock sewing machines used for edge finishing.

1. SPME
END TERM JURY
Presentation by-
•Anurag Priyadarshi
•Kumar Harsh
•Shubhanshi Pandey
•Vertika Gupta

2. TOPIC
CUTTING AND NON CYCLIC MACHINE

3. 1.CUTTING
 Cutting means to cut the garments piece from lays of
fabric with help of cutting equipment and template.
2.CUTTING OBJECTIVE
 To separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according
to the dimension of the marker.
 To make the garments according to required design and
shape.
 To prepare garments pieces to go forward with next
process of garments manufacturing.
Marker
Making
Fabric
Spreading
Placement of
marker on lay
Fabric Cutiing
Numbering Checking
Sorting
Assembly

4. 3.CUTTING MACHINES
MANUAL CUTTING MACHINE
• Hand scissors
SEMI-AUOMATIC CUTTING
MACHINE
• Straight knife of cutting
Machine.
• Round Knife Cutting
• Band knife cutting machine
• Die cutting machine
• Notcher machine
• Drill Machine
AUTOMATIC CUTTING
MACHINE
• Cutting knives
• Laser cutting machine
• Waterjet cutting machine
• Ultrasonic cutting machine
• Plasma Torch cutting machine

5. 4.CUTTING EQUIPMENTS

6. 4.1. Hand Shears
 This method is flexible enough to accommodate any fabric construction and pattern shape.
 Hand shears are normally used only when cutting single or double plies.
 The obvious disadvantage of the method lies in the time it consumes and the consequent high
labour cost per garment, but it is appropriate for made-to-measure garments.

7. 4.2. Straight knife cutting machine
 The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays
 it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife,
 The blade of straight knife are and have a grinder with them.

8. 4.3. Round Knife cutting machine
 A round knife is used only for straight lines or lower lays of relatively few plies.
 Round knives are not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays because the blade does not
strike all the plies simultaneously at the same point as a vertical blade does.
 Blade diameters vary from 6 cm to 20 cm.

9. 4.4. Band Knife cutting machine
 Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required that cannot be
obtained with a straight knife.
 Band knife passes through a slot in the cutting table in a fixed position and the section of lay
to be cut is moved past it.
 This machine is with special blower which decreases resistance between fabrics and table,
which enables the fabrics be moved easily and be cut precisely.

10. 4.5. Die cutting machine
 The die is a knife in the shape of a pattern periphery, including notches.
 They can be made of strip steel, manufactured by bending the strip to the shape required and
welding the joint.
 These cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn.
 Free standing dies cut the small parts of larger garments such as collars and trouser pocketing.

11. 4.6. Notcher machine
 Upright, cylindrical device which cuts the side of a block to a predetermined distance.
 Many garment parts require that notches are cut into the edges of them to enable alignment
during sewing with other garments parts .

12. 4.7. Drill Machine
 Where reference marks are needed away from the edge of a garment part.
 Position of pockets, darts and similar features.

13. 4.8. Computerized cutting knife
 This method provides the most accurate possible cutting, at high speed.
 A typical computer cutting system has a table with a cutting surface consisting of nylon bristles,
which support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to permit penetration and movement of
the knife blade which is supported only at the top.

14. 4.9. Laser cutting machine
 A laser produces a beam of light that can be focused into a very small spot producing a very
high energy density and a rapid, localised increase in temperature.
 Cutting takes place by burning, melting and vaporisation

15. 4.10. Waterjet cutting machine
 A very high velocity, small diameter stream of water is created by applying high pressure
water to a nozzle
 The jet spreads out and the cut is wider and rougher at the bottom of the spread.
 There is a danger of wet edges, water spotting and inconsistent cutting quality.

16. 4.11. Ultrasonic Cutting machine
 Most recently developed is a cutting system
 Vibration frequencies in the 20 k hz rangeproduce1/20 mm movement in the blade.

17. 4.12. Plasma cutting machine
 It is used for cutting stainless steel and aluminum. But it can also be used to cut textile material.
 In this system, fabrics are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made by Argon gas.

18. 5. CUTTING EQUIPMENTS USED IN
SHIRT

19. 5.1. FORMAL SHIRT

21. SI NO. COMPONENTS CUTTING EQUIPMENTS
1. Front panel  Straight knife
 Computerized cutting knife
2. Back panel  Straight knife
 Computerized cutting knife
3. Yoke  Straight knife
 Computerized cutting knife
4. Sleeve  Straight knife or computerized knife for block
cutting
 Band knife for sleeve cutting
5. Collar  Straight knife or computerized knife for block
cutting
 Band knife for collar cutting
6. Collar band  Straight knife or computerized knife for block
cutting
 Band knife for collar band cutting

22. 7. Cuff  Straight knife or Computerized cutting knife
block cutting.
 Band knife for cutting cuff.
8. Placket  Straight knife
 Computerized cutting knife
9. Pocket  Straight knife or computerized knife for block
cutting
 Band knife for pocket cutting
10. Notches (for check matching)  Notcher
11. Check matching and pocket
attachment
 Drill machine

23. 6. NON CYCLIC MACHINES

24. 6.1. Overlock sewing machine
 Over lock machine is a special purpose machine
used for finishing edges and sometimes for
seaming.
1. Single Thread overlock
 One needle and one looper
 Mostly used in home applications
 Unsuitable for seaming (doesn’t hold the plies
securely)

25. 2. Two thread overlock
 One needle one looper
 Best for finishing seam edges
 Used for lightweight fabric
3. Three thread overlock
 One needle two looper
 Vertical movement of needle and horizontal
movement of looper
 Stitch looks same on both sides
 Finishing edges
4. Four thread overlock
 Two needles two looper
 Can be used as both two and three thread
overlock as well.

26. 5. Five thread overlock
 Two needle three looper
 Stitch is very durable even for knitted

27. 6.2. Flatlock machine
 Is often used in swimwear, sportswear, on
baby’s clothes, or just as a decorative
exposed seam.
 It creates a seam that is flat and has the
same appearance both inside and out.
 It has three elements
 Needle
 Looper
 Spreader

28. THANK YOU